How many times did you put your hand where you said not to put it between the jack and the pole? In the Uk here we attach two 4x2 timbers to the top of the jack going forward to create a tripod with one going either side of the pole or post which stops the jack tipping forward and is much safer.
4:22 for this application it's fine as there is little chance that this jack will slip with any kind of force, however, I highly recommend not placing your foot in this position as a good practice. Many people each year get hurt using high lift jacks and crush their ankles when the jack shifts and shove the load back into it's users extremity.
I've been using something similar to this method for several years taking down old fences and pulling posts. Done several hundred by now. Here's a couple of tips. I use 2x8 wood blocks that I made to basically resemble cinder blocks to raise the jack a bit to make it easier on the back (cinder blocks crack, wood won't) I lay a couple of 4x4s across them to set the jack on for a sturdy base. Then, to keep the jack from leaning forward like yours did, take a 6 or 7 foot long 2x4, drill a 1/2" hole in the end and bolt through the top hole on the jack and use as a prop. It will usually dig into the ground a few inches so I usually start the jack leaning back towards me a few inches and then it levels out and comes straight up. Good video, but definitely keep those fingers out of that spot! With these tips you won't have to risk it. Thanks!
@@bobthorman64 You gave great visual directions. So many stand in front of the key steps. I pulled 10 posts with a bag of concrete on each in wet ground. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks Bob!
From an old Scottish coal miner this type of tool was always used for pulling----never get in front of the lever it can prove deadly,i agree with you apart from from the under the arm bit that still seems very dangerous!
LOL, that's cheating. Most of my viewers won't have access to a tractor nor be able to get one in their backyard without tearing up more than they're fixing. But nice idea.
If your chain has a biting hook you can simply wrap the chain around the post 2 times over and under it's self and then on the second wrap take the bitter end and wrap in under over the chain and lock in the hook your are pulling up the chain with tension is going up the only thing that chain can do is get tighter on it's self be careful using this if the post is 1 5/8 it will crush the pipe if you don't have hook you can hold the bitter end up with a spotter. I use an HAS-E U-bolt on one side of the chain to anchor to the hi jack and a biting hooks. the Straight bolt is questionable considering it's not a has-e bolt. also i have a platform for the bottom of the jack that gets bolted in to a 2x2 1in plywood x 2 for thickness. It's more than enough footing for displacement and footing for 2 guys to stand on on holding the jack back and the other using a lever I use a 4 foot pipe extension for use of ease. Then throw it in a wheel barrow to move to the next post I've tried every method and this one is by far the best if you want to work smarter not harder.
@@jasegonzalez1 Biting hook is one that clips in the the chain. It bites in i had a typo its HSA which is the stamp for anchor systems in Canada and America. if you are using your chains and u bolt for heavy equipment you need a HSA stamping. I'll ttake a video of our equipment tomorrow for ya
Using a Hi-Lift jack is awkward and finger smashing! Always goes sideways...you could build a saddle for the top of the jack that fit around the post for jack support at top of post.....some block straddle system to set the jack onto that is about a foot off the ground would allow the jack to set closer to the post so it doesn’t jack sideways.
I had a bunch of posts like this to remove. I just pushed the post back and forth one way. Then back and forth at a right angle. Then I repeated this until I had a big enough hole to lift it out.
Thank you for making this video! We tried another method, but it didn't work for our eroded concrete and terrible soil. and thank you for making sure to note that the soil should be wet. If I hadn't listened to that part at the very end, we definitely would have failed.
Im trying to fix my dock and its got long metal poles and i need to jack them out but i dont have much room to play with and idk gow much pressure i can put on it before the dock breaks through
Hi-Lift makes a rebuild kit that might work on some other types of jacks as well. If you use decent lube and keep grit out of the mechanism, I don't think you'll do too much damage that can't repaired with a cheap parts kit.
You won't wear out a Hi-Lift jack doing a fence. $80 at Rural King. Made in the U.S.A. They had made in China steel ones next to the USA cast iron. No comparison. Cheap tools = false economy.
-- If you can get a vehicle within range then you should use a chain or strap plus a spare tire to pull tree stumps or fence posts out of the ground. You wrap the chain or strap around the very base of the object you wish to pull out of the ground. Then you set the tire right next to it in line between the stump or post and your vehicle. Run the strap directly up and over the tire and push the tire tight against the stumper post - remember to keep it in line with the vehicle. Attach the remaining end of the chain or strap to the bumper of your vehicle will maintaining tension on it so the tire remains standing straight up. Simply drive slowly away and the tire will slowly rotate as the stump or post gets pulled straight up out of the ground. It should take no more than a couple of minutes per stump or post to pull each out of the ground. If you have a helper you might be able to do as quickly as a minute per. If you cannot visualize this activity, simply search RUclips for videos on how to pull stumps using a tire and rim. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
-- In an effort to avoid confusion, I should note that when I say tire I actually mean a tire mounted on a rim with the spare being inflated to normal pressure. Using an unmounted tire obviously does not work. - Max Giganteum
I've only seen that on one video where the noob driving the truck decided to hit the gas pedal way too hard. It's perfectly safe when you barely ease into it and give it just enough gas to get the post, pole or stump moving. There's nothing unsafe about it at all when you control the speed and movement. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
That type of jack always needs up down lever even springs with studs oiled, new or old cheap or expensive jack. Oil jack and works like a smooth machine.
I ended up bending the post and breaking it off in the ground but got it out. If you use a Sawzall around the concrete ball it'll cut most of the roots golding it in and free up the dirt making it much easier.
I tried this and bent my post. 😢 I should have stuck with my original method which involved digging out around the concrete and then using the jack to hoist it out of the ground rather than trying to yank it out without any digging.
Why are you pulling out a good post. The advantage to those is the last almost forever. You could use it for the wooden fence. They make special hardware to attach the 2x4.
I just took out three posts. What we call 'star pickets'. Three flange shape. No bobbles on them like your american ones, just smooth. But holes for fence wire all the way up them. Too small for anything as big or bigger than a 1/4" bolt. Took two days. First day I tried jacks including this one. Slipping chains. Jacks didn't lift high enough. Jacks sinking in the ground (shattering the footing I gave them), jack (the hilift) breaking the chain. All kinds of stuff. I've done it all before. Only thing I've not done before was the hilift. Gave it all away in disgust. Went back to the old way. Shovelled away a few inches of dirt around the post and filled it with water. Then again when it all soaked in. Came back the next day and shovelled out the wet dirt. Worked the posts out by hand. We have hard ground in Australia. All these post removing vids seem to be in ground so soft it's a miracle they stay standing. And some of them they clearly haven't even tried. A post should be in the ground 1/3rd it's height. I've seen them come out less than a quarter quite clearly. These methods are great when they work smoothly, of course. But when they don't they're an immense petty frustration. Take your time. Soften the ground. Shovel it out. Pull them out. Concrete base and all if they have one. Once you've dug it free you can bring 'em up, base and all, simply with a lever.
@@bobthorman64 Oh.. why didn't I think of that.. I think there's one for sale not too far away.. only $5,000. Then of course it's pretty easy to get it loaded up and transported wherever I go... And down here in town of course I could prob'ly get council permission to leave it by the roadside.... God, it takes real Yankee brains to think of these things doesn't it...
@@bobthorman64 CUT POST OFF, OFFSET A FOOT TO SIDE, DIG NEW NARROW DEEP HOLE, THE SOFTER THE SOIL & WIDER THE HOLE FOR POST FOOTING IS THE WEAKER THE POST BASE WILL BE, I UNDERSTAND SOME GUYS WANT TO LOOK COOL RIPPING & TEARING THE GROUND UP
Man, I just pulled a bunch of these, except mine had wayyyy more concrete around the base. Like the dude who installed em went crazy, digging huge holes for the concrete.
@@bobthorman64 yea I did the same thing, except I was dealing with wooden posts, and had to dig so I could wrap the chain around the concrete, which entailed digging enough to expose almost half of the concrete. Was pretty brutal because ground was hard clay. Also I had to dig extra space next to the concrete to fit the jack down in the hole. But yea the jack worked great and was a lifesaver, for sure.
@@bobthorman64 but I actually picked up another exact same job while doing this one, and she has metal posts so hopefully I'll be able to hook the chain on them instead.
They need to change the name of that jack to Man Killer. Had a friend who was using one. It got away from him, and the handle hit him in the jaw 3 times before he hit the ground. With about 3 teeth missing!
@@bobthorman64 From an old Scottish coal miner,this type tool was always used for pulling not lifting as to the danger of getting in front of the handle is obvious,one slip and the pent up energy in the tool is very dangerous and can prove lethal as it has done in the past,rest assured!
The jack is fine. User error, lack of maintenance and competence are all culprits when it goes wrong. Love to hear the circumstances in how it “got away”!
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How many times did you put your hand where you said not to put it between the jack and the pole? In the Uk here we attach two 4x2 timbers to the top of the jack going forward to create a tripod with one going either side of the pole or post which stops the jack tipping forward and is much safer.
4:22 for this application it's fine as there is little chance that this jack will slip with any kind of force, however, I highly recommend not placing your foot in this position as a good practice. Many people each year get hurt using high lift jacks and crush their ankles when the jack shifts and shove the load back into it's users extremity.
Good work sir. You forgot the first step... Take 4 Advil before starting work.
I've been using something similar to this method for several years taking down old fences and pulling posts. Done several hundred by now. Here's a couple of tips. I use 2x8 wood blocks that I made to basically resemble cinder blocks to raise the jack a bit to make it easier on the back (cinder blocks crack, wood won't) I lay a couple of 4x4s across them to set the jack on for a sturdy base. Then, to keep the jack from leaning forward like yours did, take a 6 or 7 foot long 2x4, drill a 1/2" hole in the end and bolt through the top hole on the jack and use as a prop. It will usually dig into the ground a few inches so I usually start the jack leaning back towards me a few inches and then it levels out and comes straight up. Good video, but definitely keep those fingers out of that spot! With these tips you won't have to risk it. Thanks!
I’d like too see a picture of this set up.
I’ll send one next time I do some.
Correct on all points, plus stake the 2x4s so they can't slide, especially in wet or soft turf.
We do exactly the same with the tripod method much safer.
Never put your head/body between the arm of the jack and the jack itslef. It could recoil and smash your face.
This guy shows how to do it best. I am removing a line of posts, and this system works. Plus he shows the details we need. Good job, Bob!
Glad it helps. Appreciate it.
@@bobthorman64 You gave great visual directions. So many stand in front of the key steps. I pulled 10 posts with a bag of concrete on each in wet ground. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks Bob!
Your head is in the handle slip release blast zone multiple times.
KEEP YOUR FACE AWAY OR YOU COULD BREAK YOUR JAW. I use the jack from behind and UNDER the arm. I lift steel shipping containers with mine.
Yea one got me once, indeed thought it broke my jaw.
From an old Scottish coal miner this type of tool was always used for pulling----never get in front of the lever it can prove deadly,i agree with you apart from from the under the arm bit that still seems very dangerous!
I removed 8 posts using this technique. Work like a champ. Thank you for the video.
You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback.
How about same technique but with a tractor bucket?
LOL, that's cheating. Most of my viewers won't have access to a tractor nor be able to get one in their backyard without tearing up more than they're fixing. But nice idea.
Very, very informative. The best video on RUclips for pulling a galvanized pole. Thanks.
Thanks, glad it helps.
I like how u put your hand right were u said not to put it. Not once but three or four times. lol. good job though.
My dad use to sat “do as I say not as I do”
It worked great and soaking is the key to make it easy. 3 posts took 20 min
Way to go, man! I have a chain fence I’m replacing about half this size. I’m going to pick up a farm jack from harbor freight and give this a shot.
How did it work for you?
“Don’t put your fingers in here”, then proceeds to put fingers “in there” multiple times......
Bryan McCall nobody's perfect. Just trying to help. Thanks for your comment.
I was laughing at the very same thing, but good informative vid. Well done sir👍
Do as he says not what he does
Hey man this was helpful to me gonna watch this a few times before I start my new fence job.
Hope it helps. I did about a hundred of those and got pretty good at it after all that.
If your chain has a biting hook you can simply wrap the chain around the post 2 times over and under it's self and then on the second wrap take the bitter end and wrap in under over the chain and lock in the hook your are pulling up the chain with tension is going up the only thing that chain can do is get tighter on it's self be careful using this if the post is 1 5/8 it will crush the pipe if you don't have hook you can hold the bitter end up with a spotter. I use an HAS-E U-bolt on one side of the chain to anchor to the hi jack and a biting hooks. the Straight bolt is questionable considering it's not a has-e bolt. also i have a platform for the bottom of the jack that gets bolted in to a 2x2 1in plywood x 2 for thickness. It's more than enough footing for displacement and footing for 2 guys to stand on on holding the jack back and the other using a lever I use a 4 foot pipe extension for use of ease. Then throw it in a wheel barrow to move to the next post I've tried every method and this one is by far the best if you want to work smarter not harder.
What's a biting hook? Also what's a HAS-E u bolt. I know what a u bolt is but I can't find a has-e u bolt. Do you have a video up I can check out?
@@jasegonzalez1 Biting hook is one that clips in the the chain. It bites in i had a typo its HSA which is the stamp for anchor systems in Canada and America. if you are using your chains and u bolt for heavy equipment you need a HSA stamping. I'll ttake a video of our equipment tomorrow for ya
Dude that was awesome!! I was just shopping for a farm jack to remove some fence lining. 😎🤙🏽
Using a Hi-Lift jack is awkward and finger smashing! Always goes sideways...you could build a saddle for the top of the jack that fit around the post for jack support at top of post.....some block straddle system to set the jack onto that is about a foot off the ground would allow the jack to set closer to the post so it doesn’t jack sideways.
Thanks for the suggestions. All good ideas, they take time and energy. Just trying to keep it fast and simple.
I had a bunch of posts like this to remove. I just pushed the post back and forth one way. Then back and forth at a right angle. Then I repeated this until I had a big enough hole to lift it out.
That works if the concrete ball is not too big and the soil cooperates. Nice job.
Great video Bob will be trying this out on my next job
Thank you for making this video! We tried another method, but it didn't work for our eroded concrete and terrible soil. and thank you for making sure to note that the soil should be wet. If I hadn't listened to that part at the very end, we definitely would have failed.
Thank you, I have three to pull today.
You're welcome. Hope it helped.
You were working against yourself when pulling post by hand towards you.
You should of remove jack then rock the crap out of it.
Thanks
Im trying to fix my dock and its got long metal poles and i need to jack them out but i dont have much room to play with and idk gow much pressure i can put on it before the dock breaks through
@Sctn187 it does take quite a bit of pressure so be careful and have your lifevest on.
Hi-Lift makes a rebuild kit that might work on some other types of jacks as well. If you use decent lube and keep grit out of the mechanism, I don't think you'll do too much damage that can't repaired with a cheap parts kit.
Good to know. I didn't even think about the possibility of a rebuild kit. Thanks.
Great Job awesome 🌹
The one holding the camera sounds more gassed than the dude pulling the post out of the ground.
LOL. I was pretty worn out after all that.
Fingers !!!!!!!!! Sheyueet!
You won't wear out a Hi-Lift jack doing a fence. $80 at Rural King. Made in the U.S.A. They had made in China steel ones next to the USA cast iron. No comparison. Cheap tools = false economy.
I agree with you. Wish I had noticed that. I need to be more diligent about buying US products. Thanks for the comment.
-- If you can get a vehicle within range then you should use a chain or strap plus a spare tire to pull tree stumps or fence posts out of the ground. You wrap the chain or strap around the very base of the object you wish to pull out of the ground. Then you set the tire right next to it in line between the stump or post and your vehicle. Run the strap directly up and over the tire and push the tire tight against the stumper post - remember to keep it in line with the vehicle. Attach the remaining end of the chain or strap to the bumper of your vehicle will maintaining tension on it so the tire remains standing straight up. Simply drive slowly away and the tire will slowly rotate as the stump or post gets pulled straight up out of the ground. It should take no more than a couple of minutes per stump or post to pull each out of the ground. If you have a helper you might be able to do as quickly as a minute per. If you cannot visualize this activity, simply search RUclips for videos on how to pull stumps using a tire and rim. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
-- In an effort to avoid confusion, I should note that when I say tire I actually mean a tire mounted on a rim with the spare being inflated to normal pressure. Using an unmounted tire obviously does not work.
- Max Giganteum
Have you seen the YT videos of the tire shooting out from under the chain when the car puts pressure on it? Not safe.
I've only seen that on one video where the noob driving the truck decided to hit the gas pedal way too hard. It's perfectly safe when you barely ease into it and give it just enough gas to get the post, pole or stump moving. There's nothing unsafe about it at all when you control the speed and movement. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
That type of jack always needs up down lever even springs with studs oiled, new or old cheap or expensive jack. Oil jack and works like a smooth machine.
Thanks for the tip.
Grease!
You got a damn good camera man.
Thanks Bob! Great video
You're welcome. Hope it helps.
I ended up bending the post and breaking it off in the ground but got it out. If you use a Sawzall around the concrete ball it'll cut most of the roots golding it in and free up the dirt making it much easier.
Thanks, Bob! Worked for me!
You're welcome. Glad it helped.
Thanks!
You're welcome
Good job
Buy the real deal and you won’t hurt it at all. The real one is on 120 bucks
I like your style
Thanks
I tried this and bent my post. 😢
I should have stuck with my original method which involved digging out around the concrete and then using the jack to hoist it out of the ground rather than trying to yank it out without any digging.
Some of my posts tried to bend in half too. Wet the ground around the concrete ball well the night before. They'll come right up.
Thanks Bob!
Why are you pulling out a good post. The advantage to those is the last almost forever. You could use it for the wooden fence. They make special hardware to attach the 2x4.
The were contractor grade posts. Total junk. Plus the were 6' above ground and I installed and 8' fence. That's why.
It would be easier to leave those posts where they are and go get some iced tea.
I now see why people put two wooded legs on the top of the jack.
I just took out three posts. What we call 'star pickets'. Three flange shape. No bobbles on them like your american ones, just smooth. But holes for fence wire all the way up them. Too small for anything as big or bigger than a 1/4" bolt.
Took two days. First day I tried jacks including this one. Slipping chains. Jacks didn't lift high enough. Jacks sinking in the ground (shattering the footing I gave them), jack (the hilift) breaking the chain. All kinds of stuff. I've done it all before. Only thing I've not done before was the hilift.
Gave it all away in disgust.
Went back to the old way.
Shovelled away a few inches of dirt around the post and filled it with water. Then again when it all soaked in.
Came back the next day and shovelled out the wet dirt.
Worked the posts out by hand.
We have hard ground in Australia.
All these post removing vids seem to be in ground so soft it's a miracle they stay standing.
And some of them they clearly haven't even tried.
A post should be in the ground 1/3rd it's height. I've seen them come out less than a quarter quite clearly.
These methods are great when they work smoothly, of course. But when they don't they're an immense petty frustration.
Take your time.
Soften the ground.
Shovel it out.
Pull them out.
Concrete base and all if they have one.
Once you've dug it free you can bring 'em up, base and all, simply with a lever.
Sounds miserable. Get a tractor.
@@bobthorman64 Oh.. why didn't I think of that.. I think there's one for sale not too far away.. only $5,000. Then of course it's pretty easy to get it loaded up and transported wherever I go... And down here in town of course I could prob'ly get council permission to leave it by the roadside.... God, it takes real Yankee brains to think of these things doesn't it...
@@abrogard142 Yankee your ass. I'm from Texas son. If you can't figure your work out on your own don't rant it on my channel.
Jeez dad, easy on the back with those yanks. Get you a 4 wheeler or truck and pull that bad boy out.
LOL. Not sure the 4 wheeler idea would work. There's a pool a few feet out of camera view. I'd probably end up at the bottom of it.
How come you keep putting your hand between pole & the Jack. Don't do that,l you said . . ..
Because I'm strong and tough. Just warning others who aren't.
Looks dangerous to me.
Thanks!
You're welcome
Not exactly how it would have done it but it got the job done.
Shawn B, how would you have done it?? Where is your RUclips video at??
Excellent job..
Thanks.
OR YOU CAN CUT POST OFF AT BASE WITH GRINDER IN FEW SECONDS & NOT TEAR UP GROUND
Not if you're replacing the post in the same fence line and spacing. Not an option.
@@bobthorman64 CUT POST OFF, OFFSET A FOOT TO SIDE, DIG NEW NARROW DEEP HOLE, THE SOFTER THE SOIL & WIDER THE HOLE FOR POST FOOTING IS THE WEAKER THE POST BASE WILL BE, I UNDERSTAND SOME GUYS WANT TO LOOK COOL RIPPING & TEARING THE GROUND UP
You have to keep the handle up when ur trying to lock the Jack
Thanks for the tip. Makes sense now that I think about it
Great video...going outside to pull a metal fence pole with my new farm jack from Harbor Freight right now! Thanks!!!!
Davis Fairfax hope it goes well. Post any additional lessons learned here.
wow u murdered that
What size chain do you use
1/2" x 20'. It's a transport chain like you haul cars and cargo with.
Keep your jack oiled, it makes operating it much better. Shouldn’t have to hammer on the selector to move it into position.
Man, I just pulled a bunch of these, except mine had wayyyy more concrete around the base. Like the dude who installed em went crazy, digging huge holes for the concrete.
Did you use this technique? Did it work?
@@bobthorman64 yea I did the same thing, except I was dealing with wooden posts, and had to dig so I could wrap the chain around the concrete, which entailed digging enough to expose almost half of the concrete. Was pretty brutal because ground was hard clay. Also I had to dig extra space next to the concrete to fit the jack down in the hole. But yea the jack worked great and was a lifesaver, for sure.
@@bobthorman64 but I actually picked up another exact same job while doing this one, and she has metal posts so hopefully I'll be able to hook the chain on them instead.
Digging in hard clay is about the worst. Glad you got it done. Hope your next job goes well and much easier.
What if I have same jack but without the red triangle attachment on top?
It will make it more difficult without that head stem at the top. That was important to keep the jack from popping off the post.
Bob Thorman did it come with jack or can it be purchased separately?
@@TheScoobysnack08 mine came with the jack.
do it yourself , go to woodprix page and learn how .
They need to change the name of that jack to Man Killer. Had a friend who was using one. It got away from him, and the handle hit him in the jaw 3 times before he hit the ground. With about 3 teeth missing!
Seriously? I know those things can create a lot of pressure so I believe it. Got to be careful.
@@bobthorman64 If you wet the ground around the post. It may pull out easier.
@@charlescoker7752 I had mixed results using water. Too much and it created suction and made it harder. Just enough did make it easier.
@@bobthorman64 From an old Scottish coal miner,this type tool was always used for pulling not lifting as to the danger of getting in front of the handle is obvious,one slip and the pent up energy in the tool is very dangerous and can prove lethal as it has done in the past,rest assured!
The jack is fine. User error, lack of maintenance and competence are all culprits when it goes wrong. Love to hear the circumstances in how it “got away”!