I need a lift table like that in the worst way ! Oh and , this is the first video I've seen with a woman working on a Harley 👍 What a welcomed, refreshing view .
+Sean L I was thinking the same about the woman Technician. Neither Harley-Davidson dealer in Fresno, California has a woman Tech. Plenty in the Motorclothes Dept though.
Check the magnet on drain plug for "excess" lose material. Because this is clutch and is a wearable item expect to see some filings but if theres chunks of anything....inspect further!
That's called a derby cover gasket. I just asked for a primary cover gasket today at HD and the parts guy got me a $45 gasket for the whole entire primary cover. I had to say derby cover gasket so he knew what I needed.
I change my oil every 3000miles synthetic only. I have 34,000 miles on my 2019 streetglide. I have never replaced a primary cover gasket I still have the original in the bike. Same with drain plug O rings. Never replaced them and neither has ever leaked. I've had harleys go 70,000 plus mile and never changed them and never had a leak. Just don't over tighten them.
Man what a relief watching this video... first with a woman doing the work. And second without Bob Enn. and his cameraman Weaver!!! Half the videos on here you need gravol to watch!!! Clear concise and to the point!!!
I like the way she starts to put the drain plug back in by hand first, at a dealership I worked at I saw a new tech shoved them in with air tools and stripped 3 transmission pans in a week
I just changed over to Amsoil in my Harley Road King. I’ve changed the oil and transmission fluid so far and this weekend will tackle the primary. So far so good. I’ll reserve judgment until I put some miles on it with Amsoil in it.
I used Amsoil in the primary on my CVO and I had to take it back out. It was just too slippery for the clutch feel. SYN3 in the primary for me and Amsoil all other holes.
You don't really need the funnel. Just push the spout of the oil container against that center bolt and nut. The oil will dribble down into the case just fine.
It says 24 oz of oil in the primary for my 2002 FLSTC but it does not come up the the bottom of the clutch basket like I see in these videos. When I changed it I think it had 20-W 50 engine oil in it and it measured out to be 29 oz. I replaced it with full synthetic Harley oil at 24 oz as it says in my book. My 72 Shovel is like a big lawn mower and I can do about anything to that needs doing but these new twin cams I am not a fan. I have the 02 FLSTC and an 01 Road king that I bought wrecked. I think as soon as I get the road king on the road I am selling both of them.
My 03 RK takes 20-50 for the engine, 10-40 for the primary and 75-90 for the tranny. I use amsoil and have never had a problem. I have not used the primary fluid from Amsoil. And at this point after 20 years of running my bike Im not going to change...It is what it is...and staying that way.
The drain plug looked like it had teflon paste on it when you removed it. Why didn't you put some new teflon paste on the plug after you cleaned it before installing it? I tried AMSOIL transmission fluid in my gearbox and went straight back to Red Line shock proof heavy, much quieter and smoother.
I would not recommend using the Amsoil primary fluid on any HD that had engine upgrades. My '09 Fatboy w/only 5k had an engine upgrade. I used the Amsoil primary fluid and the fluid caused the clutch to slip. This was confirmed by two different techs on two different dynamometer. You wouldn't notice the slippage while driving, but the dyno machine did. Called Amsoil who advised the fluid was only for stock engines, too bad, too sad, thanks for your money.
I just changed mine today, and I started with bike on its side stand. Owner's manual says 38 oz. I got almost 1 quart (32oz) when it started dripping out the side. I had to center it up to get the rest of the fluid in.
I follow the owner's manual directions when draining my Sportster's primary oil, to be sure to drain all of it. First, you open the inspection port to let air in while you drain the oil while the bike is leaning on the jiffy stand. Then straddle the bike to make it level and more will come out. (As an extra step, I gently rock the bike form side to side.) Then you raise the bike on the jack to be sure it is level while you remove the derby cover to add the new oil. If you add one quart exactly, it will measure perfectly inside the derby cover. Since then, I skid a step to save time. I leave the derby cover closed while replacing the primary oil. I open the chain inspection port to let air in while draining the primary oil. After replacing the drain plug, I add the new oil in the chain inspection port instead of in the derby cover opening. Then I check the chain tension, replace the chain inspection port and I'm done. Less time and less chance of a mess. Again, if you don't take the time to drain the oil with the bike on the jiffy stand AND with it level, you will not drain all of the oil and you could overfill it by adding one quart.
@@solero7378 you under drained it and over filled it. It should be upright for the change. If you don't have help, after you remove the drain plug sit on it like if you are riding it at a stop. Give it 5 minutes or so to completely drain. You can fill it on the side stand mostly but it shouldn't run out. I hope this helps you out. Ride safe!
Just switched to amsoil in all three holes recently on my 05 Electra Glide UC and too soon to notice a difference. Only problem I have with it, is that it is not available widely in all the local auto parts stores. IE: O'Reillys, AutoZone and NAPA here locally. My tranny still seems a bit clunky even using the soft shift method. ie: Light pressure and let the bike sort of take it into the next gear. I am in SoCal - San Fernando Valley (HOT summers) and still seems pretty hot on my inner thighs at lights. I realize only so much oil can do however. =) So far seems fine.
I tried Amsoil and switched to Redline 20w50 motorcycle oil and its seems alot better, engine seems to run alot cooler and use Shaeffers V twin Primary fluid and shifts alot smoother no clucking..give that combo a try I guarantee you will see and feel the difference
So many little precautionary steps missed in this video. 1. Check magnet on end of drain plug for ANY metal shavings. Clutch area is a wear item 2. Clean threads of drain plug with wire brush. 3. Spray the plug with brake cleaner to remove any residue. Always check threads for serviceability. 4. Install new drain plug o-ring. 5. Apply Teflon paste to threads of drain plug. 6. Coat new "derby cover" not "primary gasket" with light coat of oil.
@@richardedwin5980 I cant believe she didn’t put any tread sealant on the threads. Do you know what’s better, the o ring or a gasket to seal the Derby cover. I reused the o ring on mine with no problems yet, but I also have a brand new gasket hanging on the wall of my shed?
@@Bill-xc8le I prefer the o-ring. I personally feel it forms a better seal so to speak. I ALWAYS install a new o-ring on every item I do a service. Doesn’t matter if it’s a drain plug, transmission dipstick or derby cover o-ring...it gets changed. My results? Never ever had a leak or one come back to the shop. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
I know this is old but realistically unless that bolt is NPT really should be no reason for sealant or dope on this bolt. If it’s leaking your O-ring is bad.
Hello, Check out our Dealer Locator tool, which will allow you to search for Independent AMSOIL Dealers, & Retailers near you who stock our products! www.amsoil.com/locator/map.aspx
In ten years of servicing my own, and friends bikes I have never fitted new derby cover seals or drain-plug seals - and not one of them has leaked. The derby cover fasteners are screws, not bolts - screws are threaded all the way to the head and bolts have a shouldered portion of the shaft. Nice looking woman.
Thumbs-Up #262 I am, Tuesday evening 23 July 2019! I do not own a bike like this but the information was interesting. Some of your commenters seem to have OCD. They know what you mean but have to correct you anyway. 😆 Cheers!
Hi Karl, Our 20W-50 Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil (product code MCV) will be perfect in the engine, transmission and primary. You can find that at this link: www.amsoil.com/p/20w-50-synthetic-v-twin-motorcycle-oil-mcv/?code=MCVQT-EA
The proper way to use a torque wrench is put 2 fingers on the very end and use a steady downward pressure. Nobody calls it a socket wrench, that is a ratchet.
She looks like one of those girls that. Wants to say. Hay. Screw this. Let's Ride. Just kidding. I'm doing this job and I appreciate this nice girl helping me out with getting my primary oil change done correctly and I'm. I have a 1999 Softail Custom and I like it a lot. Old School to the Max. I use 20x50 Castrol GTX and Harley Davidson primary oil for the transmission and the primary case.
She looks like she has a Hard Body. That's a good thing. I like to inspect her tight and hard body and if I'm Lucky I can check the Torque using a special torque wrench and if I'm Lucky I might be able to use my Tongue to complete the job on the Softail Custom motorcycle.
Hell no. Everyone has their own "favorite" oil. Harley's Formula Plus is a lot cheaper and a very good mineral based lubricant for both the primary and transmissions. Synthetics are made for high temp situations. They have a useful purpose in the crankcase during the summer because you could easily see 300+ degrees in the crankcase oil temp. But the primary and transmission see far less temp ranges. Synthetic is OK to use, but not necessary.
Hi Sergio, This video features our Primary Fluid, which is not suitable for use in the engine. We do have AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic V-Twin Oil, which is excellent in the engine, primary and transmission. We offer both options to suit whatever individual customers prefer.
Need to review proper torque wrench usage. In this video the torque was achieved, then passed and then checked again. One click only please. I do realize the set value was less than the max but if you’re going to demonstrate a procedure, you should demonstrate correctly. Remember: To practice perfectly makes perfect. Imperfect practice makes bad habits.
Your so awesome . Your the wide webs keyboard commander . She is fine . I’m an engineer and I am an aerospace Mechanic that works on and assembled jet engines and helicopter transmissions and I do what she does just to make sure , especially when there may be run on torque drag . A little more wont strip nothing especially when her safety net on the drain plugs was 16 ft pounds towards the lower torque spectrum as a safety net . I know you have your “ bill hilly I know how to Turn a wrench and new M8 sounds metric point of view “.
@@kawancraigstewart 20 years as an Aircraft maintenance tech and instructor no where does the tech order or job guides require additional torque once the torque wrench indicates set torque. With your method you might as well throw your torque wrench away.
Walt Stovall When you stagger torque 100 bolts or nuts in a certain sequence it’s nice to know you didn’t miss one . You can run over all them again . And there is such thing as a critical torque and non critical . Common we all know torque is a calculation that doesn’t reflect applications at times and a good mechanic knows when it takes a little more for the application without loctite if there is high vibration or not or from just plain experience something engineers don’t know about and I worked on both sides of the fence and it made me a better engineer
I need a lift table like that in the worst way !
Oh and , this is the first video I've seen with a woman working on a Harley 👍
What a welcomed, refreshing view .
+Sean L I was thinking the same about the woman Technician. Neither Harley-Davidson dealer in Fresno, California has a woman Tech. Plenty in the Motorclothes Dept though.
Check the magnet on drain plug for "excess" lose material. Because this is clutch and is a wearable item expect to see some filings but if theres chunks of anything....inspect further!
That's called a derby cover gasket. I just asked for a primary cover gasket today at HD and the parts guy got me a $45 gasket for the whole entire primary cover. I had to say derby cover gasket so he knew what I needed.
If you really want to blow his mind ask for a clutch inspection cover gasket, which is what it's really called
I change my oil every 3000miles synthetic only. I have 34,000 miles on my 2019 streetglide. I have never replaced a primary cover gasket I still have the original in the bike. Same with drain plug O rings. Never replaced them and neither has ever leaked. I've had harleys go 70,000 plus mile and never changed them and never had a leak. Just don't over tighten them.
And if you do ever need to replace a derby cover gasket use the full coverage one instead of the one shown here.
Man what a relief watching this video... first with a woman doing the work. And second without Bob Enn. and his cameraman Weaver!!! Half the videos on here you need gravol to watch!!! Clear concise and to the point!!!
I like the way she starts to put the drain plug back in by hand first, at a dealership I worked at I saw a new tech shoved them in with air tools and stripped 3 transmission pans in a week
Fking azzholes....that's the exact reason I do all my own work....Not my circus, not my monkeys..
I just changed over to Amsoil in my Harley Road King. I’ve changed the oil and transmission fluid so far and this weekend will tackle the primary. So far so good. I’ll reserve judgment until I put some miles on it with Amsoil in it.
Love how Harleys still have "anything-eighths" bolt-head sizes. There's entire new wrench and socket sets I need to buy.
I watched this video and I don't even own a motorcycle and even less a Harley-Davidson motorcycle.I liked the mechanic ! !
I used Amsoil in the primary on my CVO and I had to take it back out. It was just too slippery for the clutch feel. SYN3 in the primary for me and Amsoil all other holes.
Shaochieh Young that doesn’t make a lot of sense but glad it works for you. I would have expected formula+ to help but not syn3
You don't really need the funnel. Just push the spout of the oil container against that center bolt and nut. The oil will dribble down into the case just fine.
It says 24 oz of oil in the primary for my 2002 FLSTC but it does not come up the the bottom of the clutch basket like I see in these videos. When I changed it I think it had 20-W 50 engine oil in it and it measured out to be 29 oz. I replaced it with full synthetic Harley oil at 24 oz as it says in my book. My 72 Shovel is like a big lawn mower and I can do about anything to that needs doing but these new twin cams I am not a fan. I have the 02 FLSTC and an 01 Road king that I bought wrecked. I think as soon as I get the road king on the road I am selling both of them.
lisar3006 she is full of shit. Research it. That’s too much oil.
@@paulgrigsby9930 Have you actually researched it for a 2014 Fatboy lo? What does she have incorrect?
My 03 RK takes 20-50 for the engine, 10-40 for the primary and 75-90 for the tranny. I use amsoil and have never had a problem. I have not used the primary fluid from Amsoil. And at this point after 20 years of running my bike Im not going to change...It is what it is...and staying that way.
wow good job . Not often i see a women who can work professionally like that. Getting my first harley tomorow.. Thanks this video helped me :)!
Shouldn't you clean the channel that the primary oil cover gasket rests in before putting in a new gasket?
The drain plug looked like it had teflon paste on it when you removed it. Why didn't you put some new teflon paste on the plug after you cleaned it before installing it?
I tried AMSOIL transmission fluid in my gearbox and went straight back to Red Line shock proof heavy, much quieter and smoother.
That oil looked pretty clean coming out and wipe clean before installing new gasket
Thumbs down? Really?? She did the job right!! 👍👍
And since you have the Derby cover off....Adjust the clutch, you're right there....!!!!
You might want to mention inspection of the magnetic drain plug for metal debris, what's normal and what's not.
I would not recommend using the Amsoil primary fluid on any HD that had engine upgrades. My '09 Fatboy w/only 5k had an engine upgrade. I used the Amsoil primary fluid and the fluid caused the clutch to slip. This was confirmed by two different techs on two different dynamometer. You wouldn't notice the slippage while driving, but the dyno machine did. Called Amsoil who advised the fluid was only for stock engines, too bad, too sad, thanks for your money.
What do you use in your primary now?
@@rjdavis947 bel-ray
So.... does the bike have to be on a lift or side stand when checking if the fluid is touching bottom of clutch plate
Bike should be level, not on the side stand
primary cover gasket usually doesn't need replacing
Neither does the derby cover.
Isn't the fluid in the primary supposed to be 1.39 quarts and not 1 quart? Other than that, very detailed.
That is correct. 1 qt not enough!
Depends on the year, and the model. They are not all the same! My '95 Softail only takes 28 oz.
Why don't you sell a kit for all three holes for 23 roadglide
I like the oil but to hard to get here harley dealer has it but they never got enough to do a oil change
Does the bike need to stand on kickstand or sit straight up?
I just changed mine today, and I started with bike on its side stand. Owner's manual says 38 oz. I got almost 1 quart (32oz) when it started dripping out the side. I had to center it up to get the rest of the fluid in.
I follow the owner's manual directions when draining my Sportster's primary oil, to be sure to drain all of it. First, you open the inspection port to let air in while you drain the oil while the bike is leaning on the jiffy stand. Then straddle the bike to make it level and more will come out. (As an extra step, I gently rock the bike form side to side.) Then you raise the bike on the jack to be sure it is level while you remove the derby cover to add the new oil. If you add one quart exactly, it will measure perfectly inside the derby cover.
Since then, I skid a step to save time. I leave the derby cover closed while replacing the primary oil. I open the chain inspection port to let air in while draining the primary oil. After replacing the drain plug, I add the new oil in the chain inspection port instead of in the derby cover opening. Then I check the chain tension, replace the chain inspection port and I'm done. Less time and less chance of a mess.
Again, if you don't take the time to drain the oil with the bike on the jiffy stand AND with it level, you will not drain all of the oil and you could overfill it by adding one quart.
@@solero7378 you under drained it and over filled it. It should be upright for the change. If you don't have help, after you remove the drain plug sit on it like if you are riding it at a stop. Give it 5 minutes or so to completely drain. You can fill it on the side stand mostly but it shouldn't run out. I hope this helps you out. Ride safe!
Nice to see it so simple.
Just switched to amsoil in all three holes recently on my 05 Electra Glide UC and too soon to notice a difference. Only problem I have with it, is that it is not available widely in all the local auto parts stores. IE: O'Reillys, AutoZone and NAPA here locally. My tranny still seems a bit clunky even using the soft shift method. ie: Light pressure and let the bike sort of take it into the next gear. I am in SoCal - San Fernando Valley (HOT summers) and still seems pretty hot on my inner thighs at lights. I realize only so much oil can do however. =) So far seems fine.
I tried Amsoil and switched to Redline 20w50 motorcycle oil and its seems alot better, engine seems to run alot cooler and use Shaeffers V twin Primary fluid and shifts alot smoother no clucking..give that combo a try I guarantee you will see and feel the difference
No matter what oil you use it’s not going to affect the temperature enough to notice any difference at all.
So many little precautionary steps missed in this video.
1. Check magnet on end of drain plug for ANY metal shavings. Clutch area is a wear item
2. Clean threads of drain plug with wire brush.
3. Spray the plug with brake cleaner to remove any residue. Always check threads for serviceability.
4. Install new drain plug o-ring.
5. Apply Teflon paste to threads of drain plug.
6. Coat new "derby cover" not "primary gasket" with light coat of oil.
shavings are normal on the drain plug Richard.
@@Bill-xc8le I’m aware of that. As long it’s not excessive.
@@richardedwin5980 I cant believe she didn’t put any tread sealant on the threads. Do you know what’s better, the o ring or a gasket to seal the Derby cover. I reused the o ring on mine with no problems yet, but I also have a brand new gasket hanging on the wall of my shed?
@@Bill-xc8le I prefer the o-ring. I personally feel it forms a better seal so to speak. I ALWAYS install a new o-ring on every item I do a service. Doesn’t matter if it’s a drain plug, transmission dipstick or derby cover o-ring...it gets changed. My results? Never ever had a leak or one come back to the shop. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
I know this is old but realistically unless that bolt is NPT really should be no reason for sealant or dope on this bolt. If it’s leaking your O-ring is bad.
Good info and a pleasure to watch
Where can I find your product in the Phoenix- metro area market in Arizona?
Hello, Check out our Dealer Locator tool, which will allow you to search for Independent AMSOIL Dealers, & Retailers near you who stock our products! www.amsoil.com/locator/map.aspx
Would you recommend amsoil for a shovelhead?
In ten years of servicing my own, and friends bikes I have never fitted new derby cover seals or drain-plug seals - and not one of them has leaked. The derby cover fasteners are screws, not bolts - screws are threaded all the way to the head and bolts have a shouldered portion of the shaft. Nice looking woman.
+Thakery 😆 Are you sure you don’t want to correct anything else she said? 😆
Not needed unless you see wear or tears on the seals or gaskets. Check them closely though.
Thumbs-Up #262 I am, Tuesday evening 23 July 2019! I do not own a bike like this but the information was interesting. Some of your commenters seem to have OCD. They know what you mean but have to correct you anyway. 😆 Cheers!
Thanks , very good info.
Well done 👍🏻
Excellent! Thank you.
Very nice to see these videos I suggested. :)
Thanks for you help and you are a beautiful lady, I have a 1999 Dyna Wide Glide can I use Amsoil in my bike?
Hi Karl, Our 20W-50 Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil (product code MCV) will be perfect in the engine, transmission and primary. You can find that at this link: www.amsoil.com/p/20w-50-synthetic-v-twin-motorcycle-oil-mcv/?code=MCVQT-EA
Excellent
The proper way to use a torque wrench is put 2 fingers on the very end and use a steady downward pressure. Nobody calls it a socket wrench, that is a ratchet.
Thank you very much👍👍
Very nice video
What is the weight of the Amsoil primary fluid?
20w50
I can't find a good picture of the oil level on the clutch plate
ultravioletdreem she has it wrong. See your owners manual please.
@@paulgrigsby9930 What does she have wrong?
Can all your oils and fluids be used in a 1994 evolution heritage soft tail?
I use it in my 94 sportster evolution and it quieted the lifters down quite a bit. Oil and primary.
Yes they can. I just got a 1995 Heritage Nostalgia and used Amsoil fluids for all 3 holes.
She looks like one of those girls that. Wants to say. Hay. Screw this. Let's Ride. Just kidding. I'm doing this job and I appreciate this nice girl helping me out with getting my primary oil change done correctly and I'm. I have a 1999 Softail Custom and I like it a lot. Old School to the Max. I use 20x50 Castrol GTX and Harley Davidson primary oil for the transmission and the primary case.
She looks like she has a Hard Body. That's a good thing. I like to inspect her tight and hard body and if I'm Lucky I can check the Torque using a special torque wrench and if I'm Lucky I might be able to use my Tongue to complete the job on the Softail Custom motorcycle.
It’s called a Derby cover
Is it really necessary to use synthetic oil in the primary?
Hell no. Everyone has their own "favorite" oil. Harley's Formula Plus is a lot cheaper and a very good mineral based lubricant for both the primary and transmissions. Synthetics are made for high temp situations. They have a useful purpose in the crankcase during the summer because you could easily see 300+ degrees in the crankcase oil temp. But the primary and transmission see far less temp ranges. Synthetic is OK to use, but not necessary.
You only need one quart every 10k miles.💵
Isn't she supposed to put thread Teflon Tape on that bolt
You watch too many youtube videos...
you need 38 0z of oil
hi the primary fluid is the same used in to the motor????
Hi Sergio, This video features our Primary Fluid, which is not suitable for use in the engine. We do have AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic V-Twin Oil, which is excellent in the engine, primary and transmission. We offer both options to suit whatever individual customers prefer.
Does this fluid come with the new O ring when ordered ?
you wish !
A new O-ring is about 50 cents if you buy a bunch of them anywhere but at the Harley dealership. Hope the expense doesn't break ya!
That’s a wide primary it takes 40 oz not 36 anything with a wide tire has a wide primary regular m8 use 36
Wouldn’t it be a good idea to use Teflon tape or thread sealant on the drain-plug threads?
Tom Morrisey if you have a o ring it isnt needed.
No
"Torx" bit, not "tork"
1 qt ????? 34-38oz
Belray !!!!!!!
This Girl knows her stuff!!
No she does not.
+Mike EZ 😆
No use amsoil para primaria no funciona patina
2005 Softail takes 26 oz of primary fluid oñ a Fatboy. Good job on video though,pretty girl!
Atta girl
Need to review proper torque wrench usage. In this video the torque was achieved, then passed and then checked again. One click only please.
I do realize the set value was less than the max but if you’re going to demonstrate a procedure, you should demonstrate correctly.
Remember: To practice perfectly makes perfect. Imperfect practice makes bad habits.
Amsoil is a class 3 oil not a true class 4 full synthetic oil. Snakes sell snake conventional oil
Your torque method is faulty. Once the torque wrench clicks STOP turning!.
Your so awesome . Your the wide webs keyboard commander . She is fine . I’m an engineer and I am an aerospace Mechanic that works on and assembled jet engines and helicopter transmissions and I do what she does just to make sure , especially when there may be run on torque drag . A little more wont strip nothing especially when her safety net on the drain plugs was 16 ft pounds towards the lower torque spectrum as a safety net . I know you have your “ bill hilly I know how to Turn a wrench and new M8 sounds metric point of view “.
@@kawancraigstewart 20 years as an Aircraft maintenance tech and instructor no where does the tech order or job guides require additional torque once the torque wrench indicates set torque. With your method you might as well throw your torque wrench away.
Walt Stovall
When you stagger torque 100 bolts or nuts in a certain sequence it’s nice to know you didn’t miss one . You can run over all them again . And there is such thing as a critical torque and non critical . Common we all know torque is a calculation that doesn’t reflect applications at times and a good mechanic knows when it takes a little more for the application without loctite if there is high vibration or not or from just plain experience something engineers don’t know about and I worked on both sides of the fence and it made me a better engineer
ugh no
Never never ever double click a torque wrench. Put oil on the primary cover gasket.
Why please? What harm could it do?
You're so full of shit
Douche...
Don't listen to this bullshit, click 100 times if you want, that's the disengagement of the tool. Duh.
Sounds Canadian
Max cycle 2050 Royal Purple the best
Save me $200 lol
I'd like to let her ride my bike
Can't wait for electric bikes...
No thanks only Mobil 1 in my Harley,