Could you have taken the caliper slide pins off to separate the bracket and pistons? If so you could’ve c clamped them down together/in unison. Can’t really tell though. Thanks for this video. This is the first vid that really shows what bolts hold the rotor on! Good stuff man! Appreciate it.
Yeah you can pull it apart if you take the slide pins out, but that's extra work. RUclips being the beast that it is, I get criticised if I include unecessary steps. Thanks for watching and thanks for the support man, much appreciated.
Because nobody is ever pleased on this platform. I do it for guys like you who say it's a good idea, then other people say it's stupid and a waste of time. Or if I don't and please those who would say it's a waste and skip it, then people like you say I'm dumb for not doing it. Every video I ever post is a catch 22- some people love it, some people hate it. You switch things up and do things differently for those who complain, then you have a whole new set of complaints for pleasing the other people. I've been doing this youtube crap for ten years, always the same story. Nobody is ever happy, somebody always has something to complain about, nothing new. That's why I quit giving a shit what people think, because it's impossible to please everyone so why should I give a flying f then. I don't anymore...
@@BuckeyeBallistics I got you but I always try n show every step even if ppl find it redundant, it’s just like for every 20 slide pins that need no grease there is always that one that seized to hell but either way thanks for the post
Great video with easy to follow instructions. I'm sorry to see that although your instructions are pretty concise and easy-to-follow there are still some assholes that want to put their two cents in. I appreciate your time.
I watched the other video of the rear rotors and pads right before this and kept thinking I was watching the same video 😂 dialogue almost exactly the same. Thanks for the tips 👍🏼
I'm planning on doing all four brakes and rotors on my Charger. At the end when you're pressing the brakes slowly half way, is the brake fluid cap still off at this point or do you put it back on? Not sure if you answered this question already but I don't want to red through all the comments. Also when I was a kid my dad would always call me outside to help him bleed the brakes, should this be done?
I do it with the cap off. Bleeding the brakes is not necessary if you don't crak the bleeder valve to push in the piston. Some people do this to press out the old fluid, but I don't.
If you keep a bad set of Honda or Toyota pads they work quite well for these dual piston dodges. Good video you could have also used a hand held bleeder with the key on not running to cycle the abs I do this for a living not bragging or being mean just trying to help. Us mechanics and diy people alike need to stick together rather than letting the shady shops take your hard earned money faster than the IRS.
Yeah I got a hand held, need to remember to open the damn thing and use it. But no need to bleed the brakes if you didn't crack the line, so I'm not exactly sure what you're suggesting, same as with the Honda pads comment.
@@BuckeyeBallistics it just makes it easier to compress the Pistons and the bleeder comment was for those who have to bleed say change the caliper for one that has frozen up
If quick is what you want the 1st thing you should do is open the bleeder screw push caliper in close bleeder pushing old fluid back into system can mess up your ABS pump unit !!
*Old* fluid? The fluid in the caliper is no older than the fluid in the hose, lines, or reservior lol; it was all put in at the same time. And if you open the bleeder valve, congrats- Now you need to bleed the brakes.
Guns&Cars not old. Used! The color of the fluid around caliper can be burnt. I always crack bleeder to discharge any burnt fluid, and it seems easier to release the pressure. I never remove my cap to allow contamination either. If done properly I rarely need to bleed brakes. And if I do...so what. Oh and never underestimate the use of a torque wrench, regardless what experience you may have. Decent video, but please use the proper tools when teaching others.
Guns wrong no need to bleed brakes unless you don't know what your doing. Do brakes daily never had to bleed due to opening bleeder to push piston back !!
If people want to follow my example and not use a torque wrench even though I explicitly told them to, then that's their problem. I have been in scenarios over the years where something much more important than a caliper bolt needed torqued, but I couldn't get the torque wrench in said tight spot, so I had no choice but to guess with a small ratchet or box wrench. I have also been in the scenario where something required such a small amount of torque, but yet still very critcal (plastic intake manifold), that the torque wrench didn't click properly because it was set just above it's lowest setting, even though it was the appropriate 1/4" drive torque wrench. So I had to use my better judgement and experience to once again guess, then double check that none of the bolts came loose after driving the car. Know what's funny? None of those came loose when I had to guess and use my experience and better judgement. Yet when I torqued down the valve cover on our Corolla to audible clicks set at the appropriate number, one of the bolts came lose after the first drive. Having experience and being able to guess torque is a good thing, and sometimes you're going to have no other choice! Like I said, I've had to guess on far more crucial components and have always been sucessful, so I'm not gonna worry about a caliper bolt like that when I know it's not gonna be an issue! If people want to copy me when I explicitly tell them not to, that's their problem. I mean, I could just say "torque this to this much" and not even show myself tightening it, and people are still gonna skip the torque wrench.
Nice Review..i be getting alot of squealing off and on. So I was wondering what's the link to the correct setup I would need. I have a 2013 R/T Maxx? Thanks
My guy I had a question regarding calipers, I’m looking to get a set of Brembo calipers, just those can I put them on my rotor or do I need the Brembo specific rotors to ?
Uhhh, Brembos from another Charger? They probably have different sized rotors. As far as buying from Brembo aftermarket, I would check they're website or ask them.
Guys, I can't travel back in time and measure it for you- this wasn't my car. You need to get under there yourself and measure it, it's not that hard. If you're going to be doing the brakes yourself, then you can handle measuring the rotor. Pop the wheel off and measure it...
Because I pushed the piston all the way back in. On older cars sometimes the piston stops before it is actually all the way back, because the caliper is failing. I have had plenty with slack over the years, and plenty that barely fit as you mentioned as well. But a properly working caliper that is fully depressed should give you a mm or two of slack even with new pads and rotors...
Well you'll have to be a little more specific than that if you want me to answer you accurately. But anyway, generally I always include the torque specs if I can find them, and if not, I will suggest one based on my knowledge and experience from working on cars for nearly the last 20 years. And many don't realize this, but there are often times when working on cars, that you have no choice but to use your best judgement, because a torque wrench won't fit where you are trying to torque cetain bolts. For example, the headers I am installing on my Mustang right now: some of the bolts you can only get a small box end wrench over the bolt, thus impossible to use a torque wrench. Also due to this, I rarely use a torque wrench myself because I know how tight to tighten it without one. And no, 70ft-lbs doesn't mean "crank the shit" unless you are like 5'2" 110lbs lol. If I "crank the shit," I will snap them right off...
Is it true that the fronts are 13.6 diameter and rears are 12.6? I cant seem to find my manual. I'm trying to do the job at home to save a few bucks and dont wanna buy the wrong rotors
I have no idea man. If it helps, I bought these form BrakeMotive on ebay, and have been buying from them for years. What I do remember from this is some of the Chargers had skinny rear discs (probably V6 models), and others have thick rear discs. This was my friends car and I had to look at which kind he had before ordering. Aside from that, just take the wheel off and measure if you have to...
@@BuckeyeBallistics thanks for responding I didn't think anyone would. I found a set that should fit. I'm not a huge car guy but am mechanically inclined so I'm gunna give it a shot... after picking up some jack stands.
Bought a set of 4 rotors with brake pads on Amazon. Had to do some digging myself so I know how it is. Found this dodge forum that hopefully helps. I've got a 2009 Dodge charger sxt with 12.6 in front and rear. www.chargerforums.com/threads/brake-rotor-size.115552/
Not busting your balls, but there is no shortcut on brakes, just take the freekin caliper off and do it right. Your teaching people the wrong way to do brakes
If you're the expert then why are you watching my how to video? Exactly, because you're not the expert. Not saying I am, but clearly you're not either.
I needed a quick refresher on what size the mounting bolts were but stayed for the entire thing. You know what you're talking about, great stuff!
Love doing my own work on my Challenger and this helped alot! Thanks!
I'm so impressed with this video. all useful info and no bullshit
Well thanks
Thanks for the video it was very helpful. I’m about to do the front brakes and rotors on my car tomorrow!
Could you have taken the caliper slide pins off to separate the bracket and pistons? If so you could’ve c clamped them down together/in unison. Can’t really tell though. Thanks for this video. This is the first vid that really shows what bolts hold the rotor on! Good stuff man! Appreciate it.
Yeah you can pull it apart if you take the slide pins out, but that's extra work. RUclips being the beast that it is, I get criticised if I include unecessary steps. Thanks for watching and thanks for the support man, much appreciated.
@@BuckeyeBallistics how so when you should take it all apart and grease those slide pins probably the reason one pass way worn
Because nobody is ever pleased on this platform. I do it for guys like you who say it's a good idea, then other people say it's stupid and a waste of time. Or if I don't and please those who would say it's a waste and skip it, then people like you say I'm dumb for not doing it. Every video I ever post is a catch 22- some people love it, some people hate it. You switch things up and do things differently for those who complain, then you have a whole new set of complaints for pleasing the other people. I've been doing this youtube crap for ten years, always the same story. Nobody is ever happy, somebody always has something to complain about, nothing new. That's why I quit giving a shit what people think, because it's impossible to please everyone so why should I give a flying f then. I don't anymore...
@@BuckeyeBallistics I got you but I always try n show every step even if ppl find it redundant, it’s just like for every 20 slide pins that need no grease there is always that one that seized to hell but either way thanks for the post
Great video with easy to follow instructions. I'm sorry to see that although your instructions are pretty concise and easy-to-follow there are still some assholes that want to put their two cents in. I appreciate your time.
Thank you so much, appreciate viewers like you.
O
Smh... too many super mechanics in the comment section. Thank you for the video
Thanks for the support, I appreciate it.
I watched the other video of the rear rotors and pads right before this and kept thinking I was watching the same video 😂 dialogue almost exactly the same. Thanks for the tips 👍🏼
Lol thanks for watching
Same here
Great video brother.
Thanks for all of the great info bro! Really appreciate it man!!🙌🏻
No problem 👍
Thanks man very helpful !
Yes sir
I'm planning on doing all four brakes and rotors on my Charger. At the end when you're pressing the brakes slowly half way, is the brake fluid cap still off at this point or do you put it back on? Not sure if you answered this question already but I don't want to red through all the comments. Also when I was a kid my dad would always call me outside to help him bleed the brakes, should this be done?
I do it with the cap off. Bleeding the brakes is not necessary if you don't crak the bleeder valve to push in the piston. Some people do this to press out the old fluid, but I don't.
Nice detailed video thanks man
Yes sir
👍
If you keep a bad set of Honda or Toyota pads they work quite well for these dual piston dodges. Good video you could have also used a hand held bleeder with the key on not running to cycle the abs I do this for a living not bragging or being mean just trying to help. Us mechanics and diy people alike need to stick together rather than letting the shady shops take your hard earned money faster than the IRS.
Yeah I got a hand held, need to remember to open the damn thing and use it. But no need to bleed the brakes if you didn't crack the line, so I'm not exactly sure what you're suggesting, same as with the Honda pads comment.
@@BuckeyeBallistics it just makes it easier to compress the Pistons and the bleeder comment was for those who have to bleed say change the caliper for one that has frozen up
@@thunderjet4294 Ok I got you
hey bro do you mind telling me what kind of brake pads you bought for this video?
They came with the rotors. I buy them from a company called Brake Motive on ebay. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
This way works but why not just take the guide pins and pull the caliper so you could just slide the pads in opposed to fighting to get it in?
Gracias
Hey, where exactly did you put the jack stand on the car?
Would air get in your system if you remove the cap where the brake fluid goes ??
No
One question, are the discs on the front the same size as the one on the back?
They are not
Dodge charger pursuit has different rotors and brakes from the rt chargers
Ok thanks, good to know. But when you order them there should be an option for that or run the VIN.
Where’d you get the rotors from
This is the hardest way to do this. Just remove the slide pins, not the whole caliper mounting bracket.
If quick is what you want the 1st thing you should do is open the bleeder screw push caliper in close bleeder pushing old fluid back into system can mess up your ABS pump unit !!
*Old* fluid? The fluid in the caliper is no older than the fluid in the hose, lines, or reservior lol; it was all put in at the same time. And if you open the bleeder valve, congrats- Now you need to bleed the brakes.
Guns&Cars not old. Used! The color of the fluid around caliper can be burnt. I always crack bleeder to discharge any burnt fluid, and it seems easier to release the pressure. I never remove my cap to allow contamination either. If done properly I rarely need to bleed brakes. And if I do...so what. Oh and never underestimate the use of a torque wrench, regardless what experience you may have. Decent video, but please use the proper tools when teaching others.
Guns wrong no need to bleed brakes unless you don't know what your doing. Do brakes daily never had to bleed due to opening bleeder to push piston back !!
Guns only time you need to bleed is if open the line not the bleeder screw !
If people want to follow my example and not use a torque wrench even though I explicitly told them to, then that's their problem. I have been in scenarios over the years where something much more important than a caliper bolt needed torqued, but I couldn't get the torque wrench in said tight spot, so I had no choice but to guess with a small ratchet or box wrench. I have also been in the scenario where something required such a small amount of torque, but yet still very critcal (plastic intake manifold), that the torque wrench didn't click properly because it was set just above it's lowest setting, even though it was the appropriate 1/4" drive torque wrench. So I had to use my better judgement and experience to once again guess, then double check that none of the bolts came loose after driving the car. Know what's funny? None of those came loose when I had to guess and use my experience and better judgement. Yet when I torqued down the valve cover on our Corolla to audible clicks set at the appropriate number, one of the bolts came lose after the first drive. Having experience and being able to guess torque is a good thing, and sometimes you're going to have no other choice! Like I said, I've had to guess on far more crucial components and have always been sucessful, so I'm not gonna worry about a caliper bolt like that when I know it's not gonna be an issue! If people want to copy me when I explicitly tell them not to, that's their problem. I mean, I could just say "torque this to this much" and not even show myself tightening it, and people are still gonna skip the torque wrench.
So do you cap the break fluid reservoir before or after you pump the breaks?
Preferrably after
Will the 2 piston calipers fit on the single calipers model?
Have no idea, that's something you'd need to search the forums for.
Nice Review..i be getting alot of squealing off and on. So I was wondering what's the link to the correct setup I would need. I have a 2013 R/T Maxx? Thanks
Rear wheel drive or awd?
@@BuckeyeBallistics rear
www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-Drill-Slot-Rotors-Ceramic-Brake-Pads-For-Chrysler-300-Dodge-Charger-/391574239033?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
So the base model is a 1 piston
My guy I had a question regarding calipers, I’m looking to get a set of Brembo calipers, just those can I put them on my rotor or do I need the Brembo specific rotors to ?
Uhhh, Brembos from another Charger? They probably have different sized rotors. As far as buying from Brembo aftermarket, I would check they're website or ask them.
Guns&Cars appreciate the comment my guy will do! 💯 love
How in the fuck did you get those mounting bolts off..I damn near broke my wrist trying to get them off
County boy strength 😁
Are you sure it’s 18mm for the mounting bolts? Mine seem to be bigger
Could be different for different years, also could be different if the hardware was ever replaced.
I think mine were 20
Is it better than the stock?
Better stopping performance
@@BuckeyeBallistics thanks man
rotars/ brake job and CV axel cost me 1,500 at dealership
Holy crap man. That's why I do my own work...
What size rotor did you use?
Need to know this asap haha did you ever find out? Thanks
Guys, I can't travel back in time and measure it for you- this wasn't my car. You need to get under there yourself and measure it, it's not that hard. If you're going to be doing the brakes yourself, then you can handle measuring the rotor. Pop the wheel off and measure it...
@@BuckeyeBallistics 😂 Lmao
Thought you had to force the brakes back on? So how do you have slack?
Because I pushed the piston all the way back in. On older cars sometimes the piston stops before it is actually all the way back, because the caliper is failing. I have had plenty with slack over the years, and plenty that barely fit as you mentioned as well. But a properly working caliper that is fully depressed should give you a mm or two of slack even with new pads and rotors...
@@BuckeyeBallistics can I do front and rear before pressing brake pedal or is it front brake pedal and rear and then brake pedal?
You can do them all at once, it will just take longer for the pedal to return.
Remove the caliper and the the mount instead of fighting the project so much
Part number??
? They are Brake Motive brakes from ebay.
So when you say 30‘60foot pounds of torque are you just fucking guesstimating? Basically 70 foot pounds of torque means crank the shit?
Well you'll have to be a little more specific than that if you want me to answer you accurately. But anyway, generally I always include the torque specs if I can find them, and if not, I will suggest one based on my knowledge and experience from working on cars for nearly the last 20 years. And many don't realize this, but there are often times when working on cars, that you have no choice but to use your best judgement, because a torque wrench won't fit where you are trying to torque cetain bolts. For example, the headers I am installing on my Mustang right now: some of the bolts you can only get a small box end wrench over the bolt, thus impossible to use a torque wrench. Also due to this, I rarely use a torque wrench myself because I know how tight to tighten it without one. And no, 70ft-lbs doesn't mean "crank the shit" unless you are like 5'2" 110lbs lol. If I "crank the shit," I will snap them right off...
Bro u didn’t show the beak install 😑👎🏾
It's not a bird, it doesn't have a "beak" 😑👎
Is it true that the fronts are 13.6 diameter and rears are 12.6? I cant seem to find my manual. I'm trying to do the job at home to save a few bucks and dont wanna buy the wrong rotors
I have no idea man. If it helps, I bought these form BrakeMotive on ebay, and have been buying from them for years. What I do remember from this is some of the Chargers had skinny rear discs (probably V6 models), and others have thick rear discs. This was my friends car and I had to look at which kind he had before ordering. Aside from that, just take the wheel off and measure if you have to...
@@BuckeyeBallistics thanks for responding I didn't think anyone would. I found a set that should fit. I'm not a huge car guy but am mechanically inclined so I'm gunna give it a shot... after picking up some jack stands.
@@bradleysprague2092 Anytime, I always try to respond.
Bought a set of 4 rotors with brake pads on Amazon. Had to do some digging myself so I know how it is. Found this dodge forum that hopefully helps. I've got a 2009 Dodge charger sxt with 12.6 in front and rear.
www.chargerforums.com/threads/brake-rotor-size.115552/
Bradley Sprague did you get them done yet?
Not busting your balls, but there is no shortcut on brakes, just take the freekin caliper off and do it right. Your teaching people the wrong way to do brakes
If you're the expert then why are you watching my how to video? Exactly, because you're not the expert. Not saying I am, but clearly you're not either.
Ur slow at this sorry but yeaaa Lol
The pace is intentional so first timers can follow along and not feel lost.
Where’d you get the rotors from
Brake Motive on Ebay
@@BuckeyeBallistics thank you for responding
No problem