Hi Everyone, Just letting you all know that yes, I could've gone into far more detail, and explained a lot more. However, I wanted to keep the video fairly short and to the point. I will also mention that if you use oven cleaner to clean the manifold and washed it down, spray WD40 over it to help prevent oxidation. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment and I will answer them.
Good job Brother Just 1 thing I've noticed, the bracket holding the 2 heater hoses can be removed with a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket. Not easy, but not impossible !
@@AutomotiveActionMediaStubbie 12mm socket. Hardest part is getting the damn P clamp holes lined up and the bolt thread started! Character building exercise!
@@AutomotiveActionMedia hey mate, where is the PDF document for the clean? can't seem to find it. thanks for the video by the way, it'll be a good help
Helpful video, just to let everyone know though it is in fact possible to undo the heater hose clamp there's no need for tin snips, 1/4 rachet with a 12mm from the underside of the hose once the egr valve is off the manifold and comes straight off just a little tight
recently did mine, 135,000 ks, it was actually not that bad with crud, even the swirl flaps were still moving full range. Removed them though , was surprised how much difference the manifold clean made to engine response. Good work on the videos you post.
That awesome! I was fortunate as well that my swirl flaps had no issues. It does make a bit of a difference once its fully cleaned and swirl flaps removed. Thanks mate!
Great video. Thank you. I was keen to do it myself until it got to the injector part and how important it is. So I decided I'm not going to risk it lol. Now I just have to find somewhere that will do it for a affordable price.
Great video mate! For future reference here’s a little hack for you. If you even replace the fuel lines etc , if you pump the primer on the fuel filter it will help get fuel to the lines and then you’ll find start up much easier. Just a little tip!
Thanks mate! Yes I've heard of that also, and there is another hack where you can pull a fuse or relay out for the fuel pump and put two little wires into it and just let fuel run through the whole system without even turning the car on. I wish I could remember how to do it though haha
Note for anyone doing this reminds be the throttle Body and clean and lube it before put it back together have idle issues from sticking partially closed
Mate you have earned my subscription. That was a great vid. I’m looking at a 2009 dmax with 320000ks tomorrow at 11am. Wish I knew what to look for as I’m new to these modern diesels. Regards, Mario.
Thanks mate! That's much appreciated! Honestly, there isn't a whole lot to look out for on these cars. Just check over the basics and go from there. If there is a bit of shudder when take off, it generally means 2 things, either rear diff angle is out due to lift, or there is hot spots on the flywheel. 2 very common things but both can be fixed. Check if there is a bit of dampness in the passenger footwell also. All that means is that the rear tail light seal above the rear window needs replacing. The water literally runs from the back of the cab all the way into the front passenger footwell. Jump on the rc Colorado Facebook page and hit the search bar, what to look for. There is plenty of people who have asked, including myself nearly 5 years ago
Great video will do mine after watching this it has 250k on the clock with no egr delete , what do you think is the better egr delete the cable or blanking plate ?
Draincleaner works better than oven cleaner. It's the same thing but you can put it into a bucket of water and simply drop the enter manifold in to soak!
If it's not a silly question - how does the manifold get so sooted up in the first place? Wrong fuel? Lack of routine servicing? Too many short trips? Awesome video though. Thx.
Not a silly question at all. It is caused by a mixture of two things. Firstly, oil from the breather that travels pre-turbo through to the manifold. And secondly, the engines Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) System. Because exhaust gases are hot and entering the manifold to re-circulate, the heat 'bakes' the engine oil and clogs up the manifold over time. If you remove one or the other completely, you wont have the problem.
Great video it helped. I am having a problem when pressing the gas pedal the throttle is not responding. What is the position of the butterfly inside throttle when you turn the key on and when turn the key off. Would love to see a video of what will be happening on the throttle of that 4jj1 Isuzu. Thanks
That "Butterfly" is not a throttle plate, like in petrol motors. It does nothing during normal operation. Its function is to reduce the "shudder" diesel engines make when you shut them off. Nothing else. It closes only when you turn the engine off, then opens again via a spring. I hope this helps.
Mate I am in the process of doing mine as we speak (it started raining so I’ve had to pause until the weather clears up) and I did the exact same thing- stripped the head of x2 of the 8mm double hex bolts. I forgot my 8mm socket was very worn before I started. Luckily I found a deep throat (lol) 8mm socked and was able to hold a lot of pressure on it pushing it towards the bolt head when I undid them and it came loose. If I had a bolt shop near me I’d replace them with standard hex head or even Allan key head bolts. I thought I was going to have to give up and put it all back together when it happened
Hi mate My 2007 Rodeo 4jjr engine with 240,000 Kms got p0661 IMT valve solenoid control circet low. Just wondering any idea to help me diagnose this issue please? Also where is this IMR valve located? Your help appreciated 🙏 Cheers
Can I ask, did you remove your swell flaps? If so, did you have to do anything else to the car to prevent the eml and what difference did you experience? Great video and thank you
awesome video man! as far as far as the EGR cable, do you think the higher combustion temps the cause could cause damage like they say? they trick the ECU into thinking its colder, surely this must have an effect on fueling or other engine parameters? cheers for your advice man
Thanks Jamie! All the cable does is trick the ecu into thinking that the air intake is at a particular degree so that the EGR doesn't open. I don't believe it is designed to trick the ECU into thinking it's at that degree for operating purposes. Purely for the EGR. As the old saying goes, with colder air, produces more power. So if there isn't any hot exhaust gases entering the intake and it's nice clear air, it means more power and reliability from your engine.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia awesome. Yeah it's a hotly contested topic, and I've heard of ZERO issues from the cables. Interestingly I know from reading the 4jj1 overhaul manual that the intake air temp sensor sends signal to ecu for egr operation yes, but also for the injection pulse width and timing. So it is used for AFRS.. And I hear ya, cold days mean dense air and more power, in a fixed fuelling schedule. But a PCM is going to see this trick cold air (even on a hot day) then adapt the fuelling to maintain a given power output. So on a hot day, it will underfuel? Potentially? Im also curious about the egr valve being used as a reverse flow dump valve for over boost conditions, can it still be achieved with Egr cable, or a tuned delete? Awesome vid man keen to see what you get up to next!
Hey mate I’m just trying to clean out my manifold now and can’t seem to do it I’ve done all the steps it’s just the manifold won’t pull off but one side of the manifold looks like it wants to come off. I don’t know if there’s another bolt I can’t find but I think I got all the bolts. Cheers
HI. May have missed it but did you have the blanking plate on for the 35,000kms before you pulled the manifold or just added in his vid. Cheers. Just looked down throttle body of 2013 dmax and it looks a bloody mess. About a quarter blocked with lumps and shit. Guess this is pretty similar to do except intercooler is in front. Great work man. Made it look easy....maybe too easy!
Yeah mate I had the blank plate in for the 35,000 KMs as well as the Munji EGR delete cable. And yes they are quite common to clog up. Should be pretty similar considering they are both 4jj1 but haven't had any experi nice with the later model engines yet. Good luck if you give it a go!
Great video. I have a 2014 dmax and have pretty much got the manifold off with a few minor differences. However the water cooling pipe bracket is massive with the pipes being a bit more closer to the center of the vehicle and is stuck in the way and I can't get the manifold off the last 30mm but it is unbolted from the manifold. Any ideas?
Sorry mate, I only just seen this comment. By now I'm sure you have worked it out but I am also not as familiar with the newer 4jj1. Might be best to find a diagram on the net if it's a water cooling pipe. I'd have to see it for myself to provide any guidance.
@@CRN8091 pretty much exactly the same accept for the coolant bracket. I had to remove the pipes from one side of the bracket that has the rigid pipe and tie them back to one side. Trying my best to not lose all the coolant. Tool me maybe 1.5hrs. Great video to follow
Hey mate great video, I do have a warning however, I followed this video to the letter but when i put it all together i had serious issues with the hard fuel lines, since they'd been screwed down for so long theyd corroded and when i put them back on they didnt seal.
Thanks mate! Yep, some people do have that issue. I'm unsure exactly why they do. I can only assume from bad fuel or maybe somehow from driving through salt water etc. Those that have corroded lines, have to purchase new from Isuzu.
Sorry for the late reply. You should be able to find a digital copy of the repair manual online. You may have to purchase it. Otherwise, the only other instructions I know of are on Facebook.
hello mate! Great video!Do you know if in my isuzu rodeo (europe) a 4JA1-TC motor (2500CC) the intake manifould is the same as the colorado 4JJ1? thanks
Everyone that has done the clean has said positive things about it. Petter response, fuel economy etc. If you were to compare a brand new Colorado with EGR and swirl flaps to one that does not have either, there may be some differences but I'm not an engineer and couldn't give an answer. I would assume the differences would be very minimal and not something people would actually notice when driving the vehicle. I noticed a slight improvement after doing the clean on mine and so did my mate. Definitely give it a go, will save your engine !
That's right, just the munji EGR delete cable and the EGR plate. I have ran this combination for nearly a year and a half with no code thrown because the cable is fitted. 👌
Thanks for sharing the video. Already in the Facebook group. Had munji egr on for 12months. Waiting for valve cover gasket kit to arrive then doing the manifold cleaning and taking the flaps out all in one go while i already have the inter cooler off. How long did it take you to do this job? Any point putting a catch can on while im at it ?
Awesome!! Good on you for giving it a go. Should take anywhere between 5 to 7 hours depending on your experience, tools and how many beers you drink while doing it.
Its up to you, but most people remove the swirl flaps completely by removing the two screws that hold each one in place. Others have found that the screws come loose overtime and eventually get sucked into the engine and they then are up for a rebuild. I removed mine completely.
@@runnin4adventure731 They do have a purpose, and they are called swirl flaps for a reason. They are designed to help created a 'swirl' which is meant to make the engine perform better. In my opinion only, I have not noticed even the slightest difference. Only better fuel economy and more power since removing all the junk.
In just my opinion, I will never be fitting a catch can. They can unfortunately pressurise the system and cause other issues such as valve seals. These engine breath quiet heavily and so its not to restrict it. Plus, catch cans are lucky to collect 50% of the oil passing through. Its not worth it.
@@bluedunn374 No I haven't actually. I know that it tells the ECU a 'lie' essentially and tricks it into thinking the something is at a particular temperature so that the EGR valve doesn't open. I havent run any official tests, but I've had the munji cable for nearly 5 years now. Has never cause me an issue personally.
I'll supply as many beers as you'd like if you'd help me clean out my intake on my 4jj1. Ultimate Diesel Tuning ripped me off with a chemical clean thats done shit all. Deal?
Hi mate i still dont have access to the file it would be nice because i have to do one on the weekend any help would be awesome. Can you send it by email?
Just downloaded it last night very detailed but it says about the flaps in the manifold to remove them at own risk which is stumping me at the momment any ideas so do i remove them or not to the instuction guide as written ?
@@aaronroby4905 from what I know, the flaps are designed help produce a swirl when air travels through. Hence the name "swirl flaps". It does al restrict the flow a little at lower rpms as the flaps is not open as wide as full throttle. When you remove them, you remove the ability of swirling the air for better fuel consumption and a correct air fuel ratio. However, removing them, is such a minute difference, you will not feel it when driving or accelerating. You may see a slight increase in fuel consumption but I personally didn't.
Also when putting in the throttle body gasket does the gasket need gasket silcon on it or does the gasket go on dry ? I know the egr can have the gasket silicon on it just curious and thanks for the info.
Thanks! My car has been well looked after. It was as easy the first time as it was the second time. Only differences being 1. The manifold itself was clean the second time and 2. I didn't have to cut and remove the bracket on the back of the manifold. :)
Hi Everyone, Just letting you all know that yes, I could've gone into far more detail, and explained a lot more. However, I wanted to keep the video fairly short and to the point. I will also mention that if you use oven cleaner to clean the manifold and washed it down, spray WD40 over it to help prevent oxidation. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment and I will answer them.
Good job Brother
Just 1 thing I've noticed, the bracket holding the 2 heater hoses can be removed with a 1/4" drive ratchet and socket.
Not easy, but not impossible !
@@phillipstock2652 Oh Excellent stuff! I couldn't get it the first time around so just cut the bracket haha. A lot of people do.
@@AutomotiveActionMediaStubbie 12mm socket. Hardest part is getting the damn P clamp holes lined up and the bolt thread started! Character building exercise!
@@mjhmech4903 Oh nice, you got it! Haha. Some people have but i think most don't bother lol.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia hey mate, where is the PDF document for the clean? can't seem to find it. thanks for the video by the way, it'll be a good help
Helpful video, just to let everyone know though it is in fact possible to undo the heater hose clamp there's no need for tin snips, 1/4 rachet with a 12mm from the underside of the hose once the egr valve is off the manifold and comes straight off just a little tight
I have been looking for English speaking videos on 4jj1 servicing for so long, cheers for the tutorial video bro I have subbed.
Thanks heaps! There will be more in the future, I just have to get through a few health issues first (no money for the cars). Thanks for subbing!
@@AutomotiveActionMedia have you had yours tuned/chipped?
@@moisty254 Not yet no. Definitely something I want to do in the future.
I’ve watched hundreds of instructional videos. This by far is the best one I’ve ever seen
recently did mine, 135,000 ks, it was actually not that bad with crud, even the swirl flaps were still moving full range. Removed them though , was surprised how much difference the manifold clean made to engine response. Good work on the videos you post.
That awesome! I was fortunate as well that my swirl flaps had no issues.
It does make a bit of a difference once its fully cleaned and swirl flaps removed.
Thanks mate!
Intake Manifold Bolt & Nut Torque setting is 25NM
Awesome video bro! Seeing you do this has made me way more confident about doing this myself
Thanks!! Glad you're going to give it a go. It's worth it!
your sir are the MVP this year! awesome mate thank you very much !!!
Haha, that is much appreciated Jimmy! Always happy to help
Great video. Thank you. I was keen to do it myself until it got to the injector part and how important it is. So I decided I'm not going to risk it lol. Now I just have to find somewhere that will do it for a affordable price.
Great video mate! For future reference here’s a little hack for you. If you even replace the fuel lines etc , if you pump the primer on the fuel filter it will help get fuel to the lines and then you’ll find start up much easier. Just a little tip!
Thanks mate! Yes I've heard of that also, and there is another hack where you can pull a fuse or relay out for the fuel pump and put two little wires into it and just let fuel run through the whole system without even turning the car on. I wish I could remember how to do it though haha
No primer on mine
My Collie doesn’t have a manual primer on the filter…
Thanks mate made it look easy did my own clutch awhile ago was dreading this but next weekend be doing this cheers
how'd you go with it mate? I am dreading it myself
Awesome well done. Iwill be removing mine to clean Holden colorado LT 2011
Note for anyone doing this reminds be the throttle Body and clean and lube it before put it back together have idle issues from sticking partially closed
What do you lube it with?
Excellent vid mate! What was the tub of grease for?
Can you remove the black plastic sensor part off the TB then leave the TB attached for cleaning?
Such a helpful video
Mate you have earned my subscription. That was a great vid. I’m looking at a 2009 dmax with 320000ks tomorrow at 11am. Wish I knew what to look for as I’m new to these modern diesels. Regards, Mario.
Thanks mate! That's much appreciated!
Honestly, there isn't a whole lot to look out for on these cars. Just check over the basics and go from there.
If there is a bit of shudder when take off, it generally means 2 things, either rear diff angle is out due to lift, or there is hot spots on the flywheel. 2 very common things but both can be fixed.
Check if there is a bit of dampness in the passenger footwell also. All that means is that the rear tail light seal above the rear window needs replacing. The water literally runs from the back of the cab all the way into the front passenger footwell.
Jump on the rc Colorado Facebook page and hit the search bar, what to look for. There is plenty of people who have asked, including myself nearly 5 years ago
Thank you so much. The was in great condition just negotiating a price and the fact it’s a 4x2. I was after a 4x4. Cheers.
@@MrKeenaz No worries. No point getting something you don't want. I'd wait and find a 4x4 at the right price hey
Hey mate good video is it the same process just without having to remove the intercooler on a 2013 Dmax
Absolute great video thank you! I feel like mine runs a little better also 👍
Great video will do mine after watching this it has 250k on the clock with no egr delete , what do you think is the better egr delete the cable or blanking plate ?
Draincleaner works better than oven cleaner. It's the same thing but you can put it into a bucket of water and simply drop the enter manifold in to soak!
Awesome video. Made it so easy to do it myself. Cheers
If it's not a silly question - how does the manifold get so sooted up in the first place? Wrong fuel? Lack of routine servicing? Too many short trips? Awesome video though. Thx.
Not a silly question at all. It is caused by a mixture of two things. Firstly, oil from the breather that travels pre-turbo through to the manifold. And secondly, the engines Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) System. Because exhaust gases are hot and entering the manifold to re-circulate, the heat 'bakes' the engine oil and clogs up the manifold over time. If you remove one or the other completely, you wont have the problem.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia many thanks.
Legend, thanks mate. Going to order some gaskets then do it
No problem at all, you'll have fun!
Wow, great quality video mate ! Hats off to you
Thank you 🙏
Great video it helped. I am having a problem when pressing the gas pedal the throttle is not responding. What is the position of the butterfly inside throttle when you turn the key on and when turn the key off. Would love to see a video of what will be happening on the throttle of that 4jj1 Isuzu. Thanks
That's a good question. I believe it is closed for memory but unsure. Will look into it further. Thanks!
Revolution Projects ok please do
Revolution Projects Hi did you manage to find time to look in into it
That "Butterfly" is not a throttle plate, like in petrol motors.
It does nothing during normal operation.
Its function is to reduce the "shudder" diesel engines make when you shut them off. Nothing else.
It closes only when you turn the engine off, then opens again via a spring.
I hope this helps.
Awesome vid mate. Tell you what you make it look easy
Thanks mate! I have done this a few times now but the first time took about 6 hours.
Thanks mate, great video!
Wanna come round and do mine? Lol that's awesome info. But I'm not confident at all hahah
Excellent video, cheers 🍻
Good vid Bloke....... Great work.
Thanks heaps man!
Did you clean the injector lines from the pump to the injectors before installation?
Must you remove the throttle body first before cleaning the manifold? If so does the gasket need to be replaced prior?
Why cut the heater csble tie?
Got all the way to removal and stripped the bolt head under manifold 🥺
Mate I am in the process of doing mine as we speak (it started raining so I’ve had to pause until the weather clears up) and I did the exact same thing- stripped the head of x2 of the 8mm double hex bolts. I forgot my 8mm socket was very worn before I started.
Luckily I found a deep throat (lol) 8mm socked and was able to hold a lot of pressure on it pushing it towards the bolt head when I undid them and it came loose.
If I had a bolt shop near me I’d replace them with standard hex head or even Allan key head bolts.
I thought I was going to have to give up and put it all back together when it happened
Thanks great vid 👍
Hi mate
My 2007 Rodeo 4jjr engine with 240,000 Kms got p0661 IMT valve solenoid control circet low.
Just wondering any idea to help me diagnose this issue please?
Also where is this IMR valve located?
Your help appreciated 🙏
Cheers
Awesome video. Thank you.
No Problem!
Can I ask, did you remove your swell flaps? If so, did you have to do anything else to the car to prevent the eml and what difference did you experience?
Great video and thank you
I also have the egr delete cable and blanking plate. Can this cause any issues? Or should I only run with one or the other? I don’t get codes.
Great video. Where did you get your throttle body gasket
Will it throw codes one you remove the swirl flaps?
No
awesome video man! as far as far as the EGR cable, do you think the higher combustion temps the cause could cause damage like they say? they trick the ECU into thinking its colder, surely this must have an effect on fueling or other engine parameters? cheers for your advice man
Thanks Jamie! All the cable does is trick the ecu into thinking that the air intake is at a particular degree so that the EGR doesn't open. I don't believe it is designed to trick the ECU into thinking it's at that degree for operating purposes. Purely for the EGR.
As the old saying goes, with colder air, produces more power. So if there isn't any hot exhaust gases entering the intake and it's nice clear air, it means more power and reliability from your engine.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia awesome. Yeah it's a hotly contested topic, and I've heard of ZERO issues from the cables. Interestingly I know from reading the 4jj1 overhaul manual that the intake air temp sensor sends signal to ecu for egr operation yes, but also for the injection pulse width and timing. So it is used for AFRS.. And I hear ya, cold days mean dense air and more power, in a fixed fuelling schedule. But a PCM is going to see this trick cold air (even on a hot day) then adapt the fuelling to maintain a given power output. So on a hot day, it will underfuel? Potentially? Im also curious about the egr valve being used as a reverse flow dump valve for over boost conditions, can it still be achieved with Egr cable, or a tuned delete?
Awesome vid man keen to see what you get up to next!
What size threads do the injector pipes attach to on the common rail assembly? They look like M12 in the video but its hard to tell. Cheers.
Would anyone be putting any gasket sealer on if using the same gasket again? Thanks in advance guys!
Hey mate I’m just trying to clean out my manifold now and can’t seem to do it I’ve done all the steps it’s just the manifold won’t pull off but one side of the manifold looks like it wants to come off.
I don’t know if there’s another bolt I can’t find but I think I got all the bolts. Cheers
Hey mate, if you have Facebook, jump on the page and send me a message with some pictures if you can. Ill see if I can help out ✌
HI. May have missed it but did you have the blanking plate on for the 35,000kms before you pulled the manifold or just added in his vid. Cheers. Just looked down throttle body of 2013 dmax and it looks a bloody mess. About a quarter blocked with lumps and shit. Guess this is pretty similar to do except intercooler is in front. Great work man. Made it look easy....maybe too easy!
Yeah mate I had the blank plate in for the 35,000 KMs as well as the Munji EGR delete cable. And yes they are quite common to clog up. Should be pretty similar considering they are both 4jj1 but haven't had any experi nice with the later model engines yet. Good luck if you give it a go!
How did you get on with the DMAX manifold clean?.I want to have a crack but worried I might fuck something up 😂
Great video. I have a 2014 dmax and have pretty much got the manifold off with a few minor differences. However the water cooling pipe bracket is massive with the pipes being a bit more closer to the center of the vehicle and is stuck in the way and I can't get the manifold off the last 30mm but it is unbolted from the manifold.
Any ideas?
Sorry mate, I only just seen this comment. By now I'm sure you have worked it out but I am also not as familiar with the newer 4jj1. Might be best to find a diagram on the net if it's a water cooling pipe. I'd have to see it for myself to provide any guidance.
Did you find a solution in the end?.
@@CRN8091 yip. Thanks
@@fowledbarrels8417 I got a 2014 DMAX and was gonna do my intake.how different was it from this video?.and how long to do the job?.cheers.
@@CRN8091 pretty much exactly the same accept for the coolant bracket. I had to remove the pipes from one side of the bracket that has the rigid pipe and tie them back to one side. Trying my best to not lose all the coolant.
Tool me maybe 1.5hrs. Great video to follow
Will it be necessary to do the intake clean up at 150 000kms , or will it still be clean
Hey mate great video, I do have a warning however, I followed this video to the letter but when i put it all together i had serious issues with the hard fuel lines, since they'd been screwed down for so long theyd corroded and when i put them back on they didnt seal.
Thanks mate! Yep, some people do have that issue. I'm unsure exactly why they do. I can only assume from bad fuel or maybe somehow from driving through salt water etc.
Those that have corroded lines, have to purchase new from Isuzu.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia yes $1500 later and should be all good
@@logandietsch5699 I'd be questioning that.
Hey mate, where can I find a hard copy of the manifold removal process?.(I don’t use Facebook).
Sorry for the late reply. You should be able to find a digital copy of the repair manual online. You may have to purchase it. Otherwise, the only other instructions I know of are on Facebook.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia no worries, thanks for the reply.Have you had a crack at valve adjustments yet?.
@@CRN8091 I haven't done much on the car lately for health priorities. Hopefully I can start making videos again soon 🤙
@@AutomotiveActionMedia sorry to hear that mate, all the best for a speedy recovery 🤙
@@CRN8091 much appreciated!!
Great vid 👍 do you have to do anything once you get rid of swirl flaps? Thanks
Thanks! Nothing more to do other than clean the manifold :)
hello mate! Great video!Do you know if in my isuzu rodeo (europe) a 4JA1-TC motor (2500CC) the intake manifould is the same as the colorado 4JJ1? thanks
Thanks mate, sorry I am unable to answer this one. I'm just not certain
Was there a major increase in lowdown torque and power after your mates clean? Thinking of doing my RA soon
Everyone that has done the clean has said positive things about it. Petter response, fuel economy etc. If you were to compare a brand new Colorado with EGR and swirl flaps to one that does not have either, there may be some differences but I'm not an engineer and couldn't give an answer. I would assume the differences would be very minimal and not something people would actually notice when driving the vehicle. I noticed a slight improvement after doing the clean on mine and so did my mate. Definitely give it a go, will save your engine !
Whats the bolts torque for the manifold,cheers
So just to clarify you have the Munji EGR Delete fitted? Anything else to allow the EGR Delete plate to be fitted?
That's right, just the munji EGR delete cable and the EGR plate. I have ran this combination for nearly a year and a half with no code thrown because the cable is fitted. 👌
Without using egr munji delete cable what will happen if i will use only egr delete plate?
Fritz von Paparon you’ll throw a code mate
Thanks for sharing the video. Already in the Facebook group. Had munji egr on for 12months. Waiting for valve cover gasket kit to arrive then doing the manifold cleaning and taking the flaps out all in one go while i already have the inter cooler off. How long did it take you to do this job? Any point putting a catch can on while im at it ?
Awesome!! Good on you for giving it a go.
Should take anywhere between 5 to 7 hours depending on your experience, tools and how many beers you drink while doing it.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia cheers
so reading some of the comments, do you remove the swirl flaps completely? or just clean them?
Its up to you, but most people remove the swirl flaps completely by removing the two screws that hold each one in place. Others have found that the screws come loose overtime and eventually get sucked into the engine and they then are up for a rebuild. I removed mine completely.
Revolution Projects yeah ok then, so doesn’t affect anything by removing them?
@@runnin4adventure731 They do have a purpose, and they are called swirl flaps for a reason. They are designed to help created a 'swirl' which is meant to make the engine perform better. In my opinion only, I have not noticed even the slightest difference. Only better fuel economy and more power since removing all the junk.
Did you put new seals in on the injector hardlines where they go into the head or is it unnecessary?
I can't quite remember if they even have seals but I didnt change mine at all.
cool cep it up
i have a 243 k km no clean keen to see how much shits in there
Why does produce blue smoke when cranking
In this video? Or you're own car?
Once a catch can is installed, do you ever have to do another inlet manifold clean?
In just my opinion, I will never be fitting a catch can. They can unfortunately pressurise the system and cause other issues such as valve seals. These engine breath quiet heavily and so its not to restrict it. Plus, catch cans are lucky to collect 50% of the oil passing through.
Its not worth it.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia Thanx for the prompt reply, would you recomend cleaning at say 100K intervals?
@@bildad1234 no worries. Judging by this test, easily every 100k
@@AutomotiveActionMedia Hey mate did you remove swirl flaps permanently or just for cleaning purposes?
@@bildad1234 We removed the swirl flaps and the screws completely. Leave the shaft in that run across the manifold
nice video legend any chance you want to do mine? haha
Hahaha, thanks for the offer, but i will have to decline :P
Just as a guide, how long does it take?
Usually up to 7 hours. I did mine the first time in just under 7 hours. But this video was 5 hours including controlling the camera
Did you get any codes or issues with the EGR blocking plate?
No sir. I have the Munji EGR Delete cable, so no issues with that
@@AutomotiveActionMedia Thanks mate, I read that the cables can alter the AFR and make the engines run rich... have you heard about that?
@@bluedunn374 No I haven't actually. I know that it tells the ECU a 'lie' essentially and tricks it into thinking the something is at a particular temperature so that the EGR valve doesn't open.
I havent run any official tests, but I've had the munji cable for nearly 5 years now. Has never cause me an issue personally.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia thanks mate
Does it same as 2014 Dmax?
I cant say as I am not sure if they are exactly the same.
Hi I am kamal
I'll supply as many beers as you'd like if you'd help me clean out my intake on my 4jj1. Ultimate Diesel Tuning ripped me off with a chemical clean thats done shit all. Deal?
Hey brother. So sorry to hear the chemical clean didn't work out for you.
Im not much of a beer drinking but can help out where I can mate.
@@AutomotiveActionMedia This video was real helpful today mate, I finished it all within 4-5 hours 👍
Hi mate i still dont have access to the file it would be nice because i have to do one on the weekend any help would be awesome. Can you send it by email?
If you can, contact me by sending me an email Automotiveactionmedia@outlook.com.
Or message me on the Facebook page Automotive action media.
Just downloaded it last night very detailed but it says about the flaps in the manifold to remove them at own risk which is stumping me at the momment any ideas so do i remove them or not to the instuction guide as written ?
@@aaronroby4905 from what I know, the flaps are designed help produce a swirl when air travels through. Hence the name "swirl flaps". It does al restrict the flow a little at lower rpms as the flaps is not open as wide as full throttle. When you remove them, you remove the ability of swirling the air for better fuel consumption and a correct air fuel ratio. However, removing them, is such a minute difference, you will not feel it when driving or accelerating. You may see a slight increase in fuel consumption but I personally didn't.
Also when putting in the throttle body gasket does the gasket need gasket silcon on it or does the gasket go on dry ? I know the egr can have the gasket silicon on it just curious and thanks for the info.
@@aaronroby4905 the gasket is sufficient and nothing needs to be added 🤙
where do i download manifold clean doc? do i have to subscribe to get it ?
Hop onto the RC Colorado Facebook page, under the files section is the document
@@AutomotiveActionMedia just did and waiting to be accepted so i can download the file.
@@aaronroby4905 No worries, I'm not an administrator but it shouldn't take to long :)
Good video but your car has been done before so everything was easier would rather see this on a car that is fresh or stiff lines
Thanks! My car has been well looked after. It was as easy the first time as it was the second time. Only differences being 1. The manifold itself was clean the second time and 2. I didn't have to cut and remove the bracket on the back of the manifold. :)
Hey bro, can you please give me a call? Kind regards, Darcy