Beautiful lithophane. Of course, you choose a great model for it. ;) Side note: I've used that feature when I want a quick and dirty prototype. I sketch it out in black and white in a simple drawing app. Then import into Cura and dail in the rough dimensions. Without a woodworking shop, it's one way to get a rough idea into your hands quickly.
i agree lithophanes are really cool to print. I havent tried cura yet but there are other programs that can do it. I printed a few in semicircles and glued them to a little cheap nightlight. Printing them is so much easier than cnc router and they come out great. Yours turned out perfect
When you tried the first model you had holes. That is because you told it to print the thinnest parts at .2 mm, with a .4 mm nozzle. Instead of using .5 and 2.5 you should be using multiple of .4. so .4mm and 2.6mm
I thought I gave everything needed in the video. 0.12 layer 100% infill printed on a 2-layer raft I use 200degC Nozzle and 50-60 degC Bed for PLA. This will depend on the filament you are using. Everything else is covered in the video and each different photo will require a certain amount of experimentation.
The lithophane is not very thick and even printed at 0.12mm layer, when laying flat, there would not be very many slices (printed layers). I tried it with the Mona Lisa and it did not look very good at all. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That's what keeps this channel going! Ron
I made a few experimental prints of Mona Lisa and Albert Einstein using tan and gray. With a bright enough light you could see the images but they were nowhere near as pleasing or striking as with white. I would recommend using white. Thanks for watching. Please Subscribe! Ron
No matter what file I use i get the message: "Model Errors: your model is not manifold. the highlighted areas indicate either missing or extraneous surfaces." The highlighted areas are always the "top parts" of the model if there would be an overhang without support, for example a nose the underside would be marked as an issue. Too think or what? Great video!
Have not experienced that. Then again I haven't done this in a while. Try rotating the model 90 degrees in the z-plane (instead of upright, lay it on its side) or try rotating it a bit on the bed. Sometimes Cura will give different results depending on the model position in the slicer. Also try changing your layer height (make it smaller) I generally use 0.12mm layer height. Sometimes one of the settings will get changed such as check/uncheck support or change the overhang angle. It can be frustrating.
Details in your particular photograph, plus your settings, may dictate longer print times. Print time is not the determining factor. Clarity of the final product is.
I used the Creality Ender 3 which I modified (there are videos on that) or you could use the newer Ender 3 Pro. And I use the Ultrabase Black Carbon Silicon Crystal Glass for the print bed on both of them. Links are in the description for this video.
I’ve come back to this video three times for help in the last 5 months, every time it’s got exactly what I needed, thanks
I’m making lithophanes again so once again I’m back to get a refresher course from this video, thanks a million!! Great video
I dont normally leave comments.. but i must say this is a very nice video.. straight to the point!! thank you ..
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ron
Beautiful lithophane. Of course, you choose a great model for it. ;)
Side note: I've used that feature when I want a quick and dirty prototype. I sketch it out in black and white in a simple drawing app. Then import into Cura and dail in the rough dimensions. Without a woodworking shop, it's one way to get a rough idea into your hands quickly.
Excellent video about a specialized application of 3d printing using CURA slicer to generate a Litophane.
Thank you very much!
Ron
Absolutely beautiful technique, Ron. Breathtakingly beautiful. You are a wizard with that 3D printer.
Great video. Going to buy some litho filament today!
Very cool Ron, you have inspired me to try this on my ender3
i agree lithophanes are really cool to print. I havent tried cura yet but there are other programs that can do it. I printed a few in semicircles and glued them to a little cheap nightlight. Printing them is so much easier than cnc router and they come out great. Yours turned out perfect
Just stunning, Ron!
When you tried the first model you had holes. That is because you told it to print the thinnest parts at .2 mm, with a .4 mm nozzle. Instead of using .5 and 2.5 you should be using multiple of .4. so .4mm and 2.6mm
thanks so much for this guide
You're welcome. Glad you liked it.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!
That is what keeps this channel going.
Ron
Thanks Ron, been struggling with this. Will let you know how it turns out.
How did it turn out?
@@danielmcpherson9062 rumor has it, he's 83% done. Come back in 2 months.
i dont have those other settings for the raft just one setting to set it between raft skirt brim and none
Why are you not printing these flat? I've done one on my Delta style printer and it turned out okay.
The detail and light transmission was much better when I printed them on edge. My attempts at printing them flat were failures.
Holy cow Ron, your mother was incredibly beautiful, what happened to you? ;-)
Great tutorial, not sure my 3D-printer will cut it but worth a try,
would be great if you share the cura profile with us
I thought I gave everything needed in the video.
0.12 layer 100% infill printed on a 2-layer raft
I use 200degC Nozzle and 50-60 degC Bed for PLA. This will depend on the filament you are using.
Everything else is covered in the video and each different photo will require a certain amount of experimentation.
Hi so id like to ask if what filament you used PlA or ABS, PETG?
These were all printed using PLA.
Thanks for watching.
where can I buy a night light holder for this?
Look around on Thingiverse.com there are several lamp holders but you would need to 3D print it yourself.
Awesomeness
why not print horizontal and save rafters?
The lithophane is not very thick and even printed at 0.12mm layer, when laying flat, there would not be very many slices (printed layers). I tried it with the Mona Lisa and it did not look very good at all.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe.
That's what keeps this channel going!
Ron
That is very cool. Maybe I missed it, but what filament and colour did you use?
I used white PLA.
next video expand your Cura window, hard to follow when you see all your icons on your desktop
what is the cura version ?
Cura version 3.2.0
Very nice Ron. That looks so detailed and delicate. How long does it take to make that print?
The one of my Mother took 6-1/2 hrs @ 0.12mm layer height. The Mona Lisa took 8-1/2 hrs.
@@RonaldWalters2010 whats the size of them ?
Mona Lisa 83 mm x 125 mm My Mothers photo 97 mm x 125 mm
Thanku
I'm going to give this a try. This might be a dumb question, but can you use PLA that isn't white?
I made a few experimental prints of Mona Lisa and Albert Einstein using tan and gray. With a bright enough light you could see the images but they were nowhere near as pleasing or striking as with white. I would recommend using white. Thanks for watching. Please Subscribe! Ron
Ron, what filament do you use for this?
I used white PLA.
You actually can use any color filament you want to. I used to do thee with my CNC mill. It is so much easier and they turn out a lot better.
No matter what file I use i get the message: "Model Errors: your model is not manifold. the highlighted areas indicate either missing or extraneous surfaces." The highlighted areas are always the "top parts" of the model if there would be an overhang without support, for example a nose the underside would be marked as an issue. Too think or what? Great video!
Have not experienced that. Then again I haven't done this in a while. Try rotating the model 90 degrees in the z-plane (instead of upright, lay it on its side) or try rotating it a bit on the bed. Sometimes Cura will give different results depending on the model position in the slicer. Also try changing your layer height (make it smaller) I generally use 0.12mm layer height. Sometimes one of the settings will get changed such as check/uncheck support or change the overhang angle. It can be frustrating.
I followed your steps exactly, and I'm coming up with 18 hours on a picture at 125mm long, any thoughts? Yours was 8 hours correct?
Details in your particular photograph, plus your settings, may dictate longer print times. Print time is not the determining factor. Clarity of the final product is.
thank you for the info!
Cool
I want to create some mounts for my insta360 One R to mount on to my drone, I don't know where to start. Couldn't find any good ones on tverse.
great
Great video Ron! What model printer did you get? I want one for Christmas :)
I used the Creality Ender 3 which I modified (there are videos on that) or you could use the newer Ender 3 Pro. And I use the Ultrabase Black Carbon Silicon Crystal Glass for the print bed on both of them. Links are in the description for this video.