I've seen quite a few "tutorials" but this one ranks at the top. No nonsense, just the facts. Thank you!👍 A few first hand words about printing Lithos (or anything) standing up from experience (fails). Slower speed is a certainly better choice: Your printer is going to shake like crazy printing these so put your printer on a very sturdy surface. Those "invisible" vibrations will physically manifest themselves as dark lines especially in the higher layers. These lines, in my particular case, directly correspond to the vibration. Slower speed = less artifacts/lines (in my case). Artifacts may not appear in all cases due to variables however in any case the less shake you introduce, the smoother the print will be.
An *EXCEPTIONALLY* high quality video and very nicely explained. A pleasure to watch unlike some of the many silly "Look at me" styles that seem to abound and just get switched off within seconds.
brims are not a headache if you use the correct tool. coming from a metal working background i find that a de-burring tool removes it with ease and cleanly.
you really covered every question I had with this technique, I expecially appreciate you taking the time and effort to print out examples for every case to show the difference in real prints. Saved me a lot of trial runs!
I do have one note on this video regarding the resolution. The resolution should be in alignment with your layerheight. If you are printing at a .2mm layer height, you won't see an appreciable difference at any resolution set lower than that. Basically if you set the resolution to .05mm on the site, but you are printing at .12mm you are going to end up with an end result equivalent to if you chose .12mm on the lithophane site. If you want to see the benefits of setting it to .05mm then you need to use a .2mm nozzle and set the layer height to .05mm. I know that most people use a .4 mm nozzle, but it makes sense to call that out in your video where that resolution comes from, and how you would be able to work within that resolution and get a better image, by potentially using a smaller nozzle and switching to an equivalent layer height.
I was using a different website to get my lithophanes. It oriented the stl file lying down so I thought that was how I was supposed to print it. Thank you for the guidance.
Thanks for this video. I hadn't done a Lithophane for a few years and needed to remember how they are done. The software for creating them has come a long way since I last tried it. Looks almost foolproof, now, whereas before it was a gamble if it would work or not.
Thanks for a very comprehensive presentation.I had already printed a couple of these and the one I did laying down was much worse as you described. I printed it lying down because I did not have the thick frame around the perimeter. I'm gonna try printing at vertical next time
7:58 - got the same lines and some small almost holes like here. Is it possible to fix? If yes - how? Does the speed matters - what is the best if yes? Also author compared 0.2 and 1.2 resolution. Interesting what would be the middle... would it be the golden middle at 1.6 Thank you very much mr. Helper!!!
Awesome video, very helpful. I printed my first lithophane last night, and it was alright, but nowhere near as good as yours. I'll definitely be taking notes and trying again.
@@DesktopInventions He used a transparency sheet run through his color ink jet printer - the same picture and size. I would like to do a you-tube on my channel when I get it figured out
Hi, learning a lot through the videos, don't know if the filament has been addressed and I am interested to know what the best filament is the best to use for the best results, thanks in advance.
print in portrait or landscape mode? I had a 135mm tall print that had a band up near the top, and thought it was probably due to height. so now I am currently printing in landscape mode, picture is on it's sdie to see if that helps, and it's 89mm wide so the longest side(135mm) is on the bed.
Great video, thank you. Heads up to anyone though when thinking about raft vs brim, if you're using Cura at least, you can change the brim distance to .1 and it will not join the bottom layer of the print. That way it still provides the benefits of a brim, without actually touching the model. Super easy to remove. I've had some bad luck with rafts and the gap necessary to pull off as easily as this video. Plus it requires more filament. To each their own, but just wanted to mention that setting.
Thank you SO much! I am doing these for Christmas gifts this year. Following your guide lines, I am hoping they turn out okay. I do have a question. What is meant by "overhangs"? Thanks again!
Overhang is a part of the print that will extend out with no direct support. Typically areas with greater than 45 or so degrees overhang require supports. But for lithophanes I typically don’t recommend it because it can cause poor print quality.
I'm fairly new at this, so I don't quite know much about Supports in Cura yet. My question is, how do you get a Support Panel like that in Cura? couldn't find anything. otherwise top video, great explanation, thanks !! 🙂
thanks for the guide, but does the nozzle and or the type of filament changes the outcome of the print quality? Ive tried all the settings you provided here in the video but everytime i need a verry bright light to make it work. In some posts on Facebook ect some just keep their prints in front of a window and its great, if i keep my prints in front of a window even in full sunlight ... no light comes through, im a bit at a loss lol
The part where you are cutting the square with the razer blade for some reason when I have tried that layer is stuck to the image at certain points and upon try to remove it I end up breaking the image any advice to make it easier to separate
Yes I struggled with this before on a part with thin sections. (Anything in the photo that appears white) the thin walls are quite thin and easy to break. A few options here: 1. Increase the x/y distance in your support material settings. This will help if the support material is fusing to that area. 2. Increase the minimum thickness of your part, this will make the thinnest sections less easy to break but will make the overall lithophane a little darker. 3. Print without support material, for many photos this will work just fine, but if you have some larger horizontal ledges in the 3D model there may be some drooping in those areas. I Hope this is helpful!
thanks a lot for the guide, question here, is there any up/downside if I print my litho facing the X or Y axis? I read somewhere it should be printed facing the Y axis, but not sure why.
Would be great to see how to do it just in Cura, if possible. Not too fond of uploading personal photos to some unknown site. But appreciate the in betweens here…
I say that because I am literally in the middle of printing my first lithophane as I write, bout 1/3 done. Just imported right into Cura, winged the settings. Been checkin with a bright flashlight, so far - I can definitely see a picture. But I’m sure there is room for improvement. With that said - I don’t see the need for a separate website to share my data with…
Wow sorry to hear about this. Take your time on the print speed, don't wait to the last minute in case something goes wrong with the print, and I hope it turns out amazing for you/him!
Awesome work on the video. I appreciate the indepth overview with examples. Have you tried multi color pictures? Seems like a relatively new process and would be awesome to see a tutorial and review. Keep up the great work!
What are the pro’s and con’s of printing the plate vertically vs horizontally (in which case you’d need to print the stand separately)? Are the individual strands more visible in either orientation? Is there a speed difference?
You mean portrait vs landscape? Printing landscape will be slightly faster due to less layers and the quality should be better since the Z height will be lower. Printers tend to have lower quality as the Z height grows.
@@DesktopInventions Because of Youre Tips in video i finnaly print my first Lithophane and is great quality . I didnt expect that from my Anycubic Vyper
What sort of steps do you take to minimize stringing? I don't know if I just have some white filament from a bad lot or if it is due to user error, but my attempts at lithophanes have been stringy messes and they also have a lot of blobs of material on the back side of the prints.
Usually lithophanes don’t have much stringing since the outer layers are a continuous profile. But if you want to fix your stringing I would recommend a retraction test print like 2563909 on thingaverse. It’s a quick print and you can print these and tune your settings to help reduce the stringing. I usually lower the temp to 190C for PLA and use 5 or 6mm for retraction distance. Hope this helps you!
Nice video. New to 3 D printing & learning a lot of stuff. Quick question which was a bit confusing. So no support = 90 degree & face sheet support = 0 degree setting in the slicer sofrware? TIA
Hi! Thanks for this great video! But can you tell more about face sheet support please? What is the pattern? Lines? My Cura didn't generate sheet like yours, it starting from table somewhere and doesn't looks solid...
Hi thank you for creating a wonderful website.. How to determine the dimension of the lithophane for a given image such that it creates a good quality lithophane.. More likely is there a relation between the dimensions of the lithophane and image choosen?
Hi thank you but I did not create the website, just telling about my experiences with the settings and how to use it. I would say the size of the lithophane is up to you and how you want to use it. If your image has enough pixels in height/width you can make the lithophane as large as your printer can go without too much sacrifice. Ultimately if you’re concerned you can calculate your dpi (dots per inch) and google “viewing distance vs. dpi” to understand at what distance the image may start to look pixelated. Hope this helps!
Awesome Video, very informative. I am curious about the box that you chose to display your flat lithophane, are there instructions for this or is it just something that you hold in front of your phone?
Love the video my dude, I'm working on a few 206mm x 206mm prints for a Christmas gift. Just had one question though. How did you add a raft to the print to help with the bed adhesion?
I haven't had any issue with white clogging on this printer. If you have issues with clogging try changing to a different filament, or drying out the filament. Also clean or change to a new nozzle if yours is dirty or getting old.
Maybe I missed it but you're talking about print resolution but you never mention what size nozzle you're using in the printer. I would appreciate if someone could help me with that because I'm currently running a 0.6 but I can change to any size we need
For this video I used a 0.4mm nozzle for all the tests. I would recommend 0.4mm unless you're printing pretty large lithophanes you want to view farther away, then 0.6mm you could probably get by.
Here is a link to the model on Thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5169777 Also Here is a video where I go through how to make a very similar one for a nintendo switch dock, the process and components are pretty similar. ruclips.net/video/RWveUuSeFuY/видео.html I hope this helps!
It exports stl files which can import into fusion but you can really modify them. If you want to do some lithophane projects in fusion i suggest opening the picture file directly in fusion360 I believe they import in a similar fashion and you should be able to integrate them to other designs more easily.
I’m still learning Fusion but I have not found a way to import an image; instead, I convert the image to a STL (outside Fusion) and import that STL into a custom frame body I build in Fusion. Next I’m going to try to use Fusion’s volume rendering to estimate the min/max thickness that maximizes the intensities I want visible - is that possible with your tool?
That’s a good question! I did speed up to 100mm/s on a fairly simple flat print with a logo and saw some ringing effect around the logo. Not sure how noticeable this would be on a photo with lots of bumps and details.
I made a video on making a lightbox for a Nintendo Switch you could check out as a reference. Otherwise there are quite a few designs on Thingiverse you could download and print. You'll just have to find a method that works for you to add the LED back lighting.
I haven’t personally done it but from the physics of I believe it can be done. The overall size may be smaller on a resin printer but the resolution should be excellent!
![[Lithophane tips] 10 Things I Wish I Knew Before Making Lithophane - 3D Printing](/img/1.gif)
Went from not knowing a thing to being confident in trying these. Great vid man.
I've seen quite a few "tutorials" but this one ranks at the top. No nonsense, just the facts. Thank you!👍
A few first hand words about printing Lithos (or anything) standing up from experience (fails). Slower speed is a certainly better choice: Your printer is going to shake like crazy printing these so put your printer on a very sturdy surface. Those "invisible" vibrations will physically manifest themselves as dark lines especially in the higher layers. These lines, in my particular case, directly correspond to the vibration. Slower speed = less artifacts/lines (in my case). Artifacts may not appear in all cases due to variables however in any case the less shake you introduce, the smoother the print will be.
This is a GREAT video! I love that you took the time and effort to print every relevant setting to show us how it would turn out! Thanks a lot!
Glad it was helpful! Enjoy your lithophanes!
An *EXCEPTIONALLY* high quality video and very nicely explained. A pleasure to watch unlike some of the many silly "Look at me" styles that seem to abound and just get switched off within seconds.
Thanks for the high praise!! I'm glad you got value out of the video 😁
brims are not a headache if you use the correct tool. coming from a metal working background i find that a de-burring tool removes it with ease and cleanly.
I don't get debugging tool..I'll have to look it up
Chrisfrisch1347 what deburring tool do you recommend for PLA/PETG? Thanks in advance
you really covered every question I had with this technique, I expecially appreciate you taking the time and effort to print out examples for every case to show the difference in real prints. Saved me a lot of trial runs!
Straight forward and to the point. Saved me hours of research, thank you so much!
Great video. Tryn to get my lithophane light done but gave up. You inspired me to try again! Thanks for the great tips and info!
I'm so grateful that you've shared this information with us. You were so easy to follow along with. Great video man
Thanks so glad it was helpful! 😃
Thank you for your video ; really simple and informative. I asked about the light box and saw you answered it in a previous question. Thank you
You are welcome!
Solid video answered 100% of my questions clearly and concisely
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful!
I do have one note on this video regarding the resolution. The resolution should be in alignment with your layerheight.
If you are printing at a .2mm layer height, you won't see an appreciable difference at any resolution set lower than that.
Basically if you set the resolution to .05mm on the site, but you are printing at .12mm you are going to end up with an end result equivalent to if you chose .12mm on the lithophane site.
If you want to see the benefits of setting it to .05mm then you need to use a .2mm nozzle and set the layer height to .05mm.
I know that most people use a .4 mm nozzle, but it makes sense to call that out in your video where that resolution comes from, and how you would be able to work within that resolution and get a better image, by potentially using a smaller nozzle and switching to an equivalent layer height.
I was using a different website to get my lithophanes. It oriented the stl file lying down so I thought that was how I was supposed to print it.
Thank you for the guidance.
Your welcome! I’m glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this video. I hadn't done a Lithophane for a few years and needed to remember how they are done. The software for creating them has come a long way since I last tried it. Looks almost foolproof, now, whereas before it was a gamble if it would work or not.
Fantastico, mi hai risolto tutti i problemi che avevo nel fare le litofanie. Grazie!
you're welcome! I'm glad I could help 😁
Printed my family Christmas portrait, I'm glad to have seen your video
Awesome to hear! I hope they loved it!
Fantastic video! I am well on my way to making a lithophane because of your help! Much appreciated and keep up the great work!
Glad to hear! The videos don’t do the lithophanes justice. I think your going to be really happy with your lithophane prints!
I am brand new to 3d printing and this video was very well laid out and explained. Thank you!
Amazing presentation, straight to business, I really appreciate the effort you've put into this tutorial!
You’re welcome! Happy printing!
Thanks for a very comprehensive presentation.I had already printed a couple of these and the one I did laying down was much worse as you described. I printed it lying down because I did not have the thick frame around the perimeter. I'm gonna try printing at vertical next time
You're very welcome! Happy lithophaning!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing your trial, error and testing results. Super helpful.
you're welcome I'm glad you found value in the video!
7:58 - got the same lines and some small almost holes like here. Is it possible to fix? If yes - how?
Does the speed matters - what is the best if yes?
Also author compared 0.2 and 1.2 resolution. Interesting what would be the middle... would it be the golden middle at 1.6
Thank you very much mr. Helper!!!
Really excellent work putting this together. Full with comparisons and everything. My sincerest thanks.
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful to you!
this is a great tutorial format- much better than other videos on the topic
Thanks! I’m glad you found it helpful!
Greetings from Australia. Thank you for an excellent instructional video.
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video, very helpful.
I printed my first lithophane last night, and it was alright, but nowhere near as good as yours. I'll definitely be taking notes and trying again.
That’s amazing to hear! Keep it up!
Good video and explanation. I'm working on color litophanes after my neighbor gave me one for Christmas.
That’s great! I will study those one day. Did your neighbor use a colored piece of paper on the backside or did they use another method?
@@DesktopInventions He used a transparency sheet run through his color ink jet printer - the same picture and size. I would like to do a you-tube on my channel when I get it figured out
Great video!! I am going to try this tonight!!
Prefect!!! Im new to 3d printing and was looking for a good step by step!!! Keep you the good work!
That’s great! I’m glad this was helpful for you!
Hi, learning a lot through the videos, don't know if the filament has been addressed and I am interested to know what the best filament is the best to use for the best results, thanks in advance.
I would love to see a video about how to make the base you use in the video, because I have no experience with electronics...
print in portrait or landscape mode? I had a 135mm tall print that had a band up near the top, and thought it was probably due to height. so now I am currently printing in landscape mode, picture is on it's sdie to see if that helps, and it's 89mm wide so the longest side(135mm) is on the bed.
Great video, thank you. Heads up to anyone though when thinking about raft vs brim, if you're using Cura at least, you can change the brim distance to .1 and it will not join the bottom layer of the print. That way it still provides the benefits of a brim, without actually touching the model. Super easy to remove. I've had some bad luck with rafts and the gap necessary to pull off as easily as this video. Plus it requires more filament. To each their own, but just wanted to mention that setting.
Great advice! This takes the brim and raft and brings out the best of both worlds! Thanks for sharing this!
Great video, thank you for sharing, learned a lot.
great video...maybe have a link to it at the top of your lithophane maker page...helped me so much to understand all the settings!
Thanks, glad it was helpful! Good suggestion, although It's not my page.
What about speed and cooling my friend? And temperatures? Some of the key points are missing, besides that, excellent video!
Thank you SO much! I am doing these for Christmas gifts this year. Following your guide lines, I am hoping they turn out okay. I do have a question. What is meant by "overhangs"? Thanks again!
Overhang is a part of the print that will extend out with no direct support. Typically areas with greater than 45 or so degrees overhang require supports. But for lithophanes I typically don’t recommend it because it can cause poor print quality.
Thank you! Great informative video.
Thanks for the video. First attempt work out great!
Glad to hear it worked out for you! Happy printing😃
Sir can you please make a tutorial about that support light box at the back ! I really need that
Pretty helpful with showing what happens with doing it different ways and what is the recommended settings. Cool!
Thanks I'm glad you enjoyed it! took a few dozen prints of trial and error!
I'm fairly new at this, so I don't quite know much about Supports in Cura yet. My question is, how do you get a Support Panel like that in Cura? couldn't find anything.
otherwise top video, great explanation, thanks !! 🙂
You can also just open an image in cura directly it has a rudimentary lithophane function.
Ok that’s great to know!
thanks for the guide, but does the nozzle and or the type of filament changes the outcome of the print quality? Ive tried all the settings you provided here in the video but everytime i need a verry bright light to make it work. In some posts on Facebook ect some just keep their prints in front of a window and its great, if i keep my prints in front of a window even in full sunlight ... no light comes through, im a bit at a loss lol
This was an extremely helpful video! Thanks!
You’re welcome!
I learned so much! Time to attempt this. Wish me luck!
Good luck! 👍
Awesome video with simply explanations!
Glad it helped!
The part where you are cutting the square with the razer blade for some reason when I have tried that layer is stuck to the image at certain points and upon try to remove it I end up breaking the image any advice to make it easier to separate
Yes I struggled with this before on a part with thin sections. (Anything in the photo that appears white) the thin walls are quite thin and easy to break. A few options here: 1. Increase the x/y distance in your support material settings. This will help if the support material is fusing to that area. 2. Increase the minimum thickness of your part, this will make the thinnest sections less easy to break but will make the overall lithophane a little darker. 3. Print without support material, for many photos this will work just fine, but if you have some larger horizontal ledges in the 3D model there may be some drooping in those areas. I Hope this is helpful!
If you print horizontally instead of vertically, you would not need a support, right?
thanks a lot for the guide, question here, is there any up/downside if I print my litho facing the X or Y axis? I read somewhere it should be printed facing the Y axis, but not sure why.
Hi, thanks for the tutorial, having problems getting full support, what settings do I need to change to get the front and back full support
did you ever figure this out?
Would be great to see how to do it just in Cura, if possible. Not too fond of uploading personal photos to some unknown site. But appreciate the in betweens here…
I say that because I am literally in the middle of printing my first lithophane as I write, bout 1/3 done. Just imported right into Cura, winged the settings. Been checkin with a bright flashlight, so far - I can definitely see a picture. But I’m sure there is room for improvement. With that said - I don’t see the need for a separate website to share my data with…
Yes you certainly can, there is no standard border options and less resolution settings but it’s certainly possible!
This is an awesome explanation of printing lithophanes. thanks for sharing your tips. just a question. where do you get the light boxes from lol?
This is ridiculous!!!! I am doing this. Can't wait to get my first one done.
Thank you so much for doing this video. I want to make a lithophane of my friend for her husband for his birthday. His wife passed away last year.
Wow sorry to hear about this. Take your time on the print speed, don't wait to the last minute in case something goes wrong with the print, and I hope it turns out amazing for you/him!
Awesome work on the video. I appreciate the indepth overview with examples. Have you tried multi color pictures? Seems like a relatively new process and would be awesome to see a tutorial and review. Keep up the great work!
How do you do the full sheet support overhang angle mine seems to have gaps where yours is flat
I failed on my first one,next i printed at 25mm speed and 0.10 layer with no infill in white and wow what an amazing print .
Nice job! Did the dark colors look dark enough with no infill?
@@DesktopInventions yes was very good,cura stated not water tight but still printed with no problem either.
What are the pro’s and con’s of printing the plate vertically vs horizontally (in which case you’d need to print the stand separately)? Are the individual strands more visible in either orientation? Is there a speed difference?
You mean portrait vs landscape? Printing landscape will be slightly faster due to less layers and the quality should be better since the Z height will be lower. Printers tend to have lower quality as the Z height grows.
Im almost there with the lithophane :P I have learned much from this video :) Thanks Bro.
Glad you enjoyed it! Printing lithophanes is so satisfying when they’re finished and hold them up to the light :D enjoy your printing!
@@DesktopInventions Because of Youre Tips in video i finnaly print my first Lithophane and is great quality . I didnt expect that from my Anycubic Vyper
Nice job! The first one is the most challenging! You’ll be an expert in no time!
@@DesktopInventions I hope so :P I am expert in Silk prints . Lithophane is next on my list :P
What sort of steps do you take to minimize stringing? I don't know if I just have some white filament from a bad lot or if it is due to user error, but my attempts at lithophanes have been stringy messes and they also have a lot of blobs of material on the back side of the prints.
Usually lithophanes don’t have much stringing since the outer layers are a continuous profile. But if you want to fix your stringing I would recommend a retraction test print like 2563909 on thingaverse. It’s a quick print and you can print these and tune your settings to help reduce the stringing. I usually lower the temp to 190C for PLA and use 5 or 6mm for retraction distance. Hope this helps you!
Are you able to adjust the thickness of the "frame" I have a frame I'd like to put a photo into that I install lights in.
Nice video. New to 3 D printing & learning a lot of stuff.
Quick question which was a bit confusing. So no support = 90 degree & face sheet support = 0 degree setting in the slicer sofrware? TIA
Thanks! Correct, 90 degrees is no support for Cura slicing software.
Great video. Thank you.
Where do you get your light boxes?
I 3D printed my own. Here's a link to the model: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5169777
It looks so cool when lit up! What is the largest lithophane you have done?
So far the largest is 100x150mm. I’ve also done a sphere around 150mm diameter.
So I did as you said but when I print it doesn't work because it's thick and light can't pass through so I end up with nothing. Any tips?
Hi! Thanks for this great video! But can you tell more about face sheet support please? What is the pattern? Lines? My Cura didn't generate sheet like yours, it starting from table somewhere and doesn't looks solid...
did you ever figure this out?
@@jimmytwotimes1 nope..)
@@ZebRoll you have to set the support angle to zero degrees. That should do it!
@@jimmytwotimes1 thanks, i'll try this
@@ZebRoll just be sure there is a border or it won’t work.
Hi thank you for creating a wonderful website.. How to determine the dimension of the lithophane for a given image such that it creates a good quality lithophane.. More likely is there a relation between the dimensions of the lithophane and image choosen?
Hi thank you but I did not create the website, just telling about my experiences with the settings and how to use it. I would say the size of the lithophane is up to you and how you want to use it. If your image has enough pixels in height/width you can make the lithophane as large as your printer can go without too much sacrifice. Ultimately if you’re concerned you can calculate your dpi (dots per inch) and google “viewing distance vs. dpi” to understand at what distance the image may start to look pixelated. Hope this helps!
@@DesktopInventions Thank you for the information :D and the minimum size of lithophane i can go for a given image?
Super well done👍
Why am I getting little, brown staining/burning marks on my lithos?
Great video. Do you have a link for the light box that you used? I would like to print that out as well. Thank you for this and all your video's. :0)
Yes, I've just added a Thingiverse link in the description. Enjoy!
Great overview, thanks!
You’re welcome!
I can not slice the zip data
how do you get a color picture not just black and white seens some dont know how or if its possible
That’s amazing man one question do you need a full color printer or any printer can do it
Any printer can do it! These prints are actually just using a single color fliament.
@@DesktopInventions great thanks man
Awesome Video, very informative. I am curious about the box that you chose to display your flat lithophane, are there instructions for this or is it just something that you hold in front of your phone?
yes I did design a simple box here. I just cut and installed a LED light strip and DC convertor inside. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5169777
@@DesktopInventions Unfortunately, that converter is no longer available, do you know of any other sources?
Love the video my dude, I'm working on a few 206mm x 206mm prints for a Christmas gift. Just had one question though. How did you add a raft to the print to help with the bed adhesion?
Lol, never mind I just saw the tab for it as I was double checking my setting!
Thanks! Yes I just added a raft in the cura slicing software under print settings. Happy printing!
Great video! Thank you
For the .2 do I need a .2 nozzle?
it only downloads in zip format and doesnt go to my printer software
What did you do to be able to print white so small without clogging?
I haven't had any issue with white clogging on this printer. If you have issues with clogging try changing to a different filament, or drying out the filament. Also clean or change to a new nozzle if yours is dirty or getting old.
Maybe I missed it but you're talking about print resolution but you never mention what size nozzle you're using in the printer. I would appreciate if someone could help me with that because I'm currently running a 0.6 but I can change to any size we need
For this video I used a 0.4mm nozzle for all the tests. I would recommend 0.4mm unless you're printing pretty large lithophanes you want to view farther away, then 0.6mm you could probably get by.
@@DesktopInventions That's awesome. Thank you so much. I'm excited to expand what my little printer can do
Have fun!
Just finished my 1st print. It's beautiful. I can't thank you enough for this video.
I keep getting small holes when slicing the model
can i ask what printer are you using
Hello, do you know if i can get the electric parts from alibaba in aliexpress? Thank you.
I think so, I have the alibaba link in the thingiverse page. You can do an image search on Ali express I think to find it.
@@DesktopInventions yea i already treid to do that but didnt find,so i orderd something diffrent i hope it will be alright
@eyal3919 good luck to you I hope it works out!
Great video, thank you.
I printed my first one …. And I’m so happy about your video. Everything worked perfectly.
Glad you liked it!
Why don't videos like this don't talk about how to light them or how to build the stand for them?
thats the fun part: light boxes, led backlights, window hangs, etc... the skys the limit literally.
Thank you very much!
How did u make the box and the light?
Here is a link to the model on Thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5169777
Also Here is a video where I go through how to make a very similar one for a nintendo switch dock, the process and components are pretty similar. ruclips.net/video/RWveUuSeFuY/видео.html
I hope this helps!
What file type does the website export? I'd like to import it into Fusion so that I can integrate them into larger prints, is that possible?
It exports stl files which can import into fusion but you can really modify them. If you want to do some lithophane projects in fusion i suggest opening the picture file directly in fusion360 I believe they import in a similar fashion and you should be able to integrate them to other designs more easily.
I’m still learning Fusion but I have not found a way to import an image; instead, I convert the image to a STL (outside Fusion) and import that STL into a custom frame body I build in Fusion.
Next I’m going to try to use Fusion’s volume rendering to estimate the min/max thickness that maximizes the intensities I want visible - is that possible with your tool?
i tried downloading a stl mutiple times and it downloads as a zip file which cura wont open and wont work to unzip either what am i supposed to do.
Maybe the file size is too large? Did you try reducing the resolution some?
Also you might try a different software to unzip the file? Usually I use 7zip
what infill pattern is best?
no infill, just all walls, add a modifier covering your lithothane so you dont have to print all walls on the frame too
What about printing speed?
That’s a good question! I did speed up to 100mm/s on a fairly simple flat print with a logo and saw some ringing effect around the logo. Not sure how noticeable this would be on a photo with lots of bumps and details.
Where do I find a light box for the prints
I made a video on making a lightbox for a Nintendo Switch you could check out as a reference. Otherwise there are quite a few designs on Thingiverse you could download and print. You'll just have to find a method that works for you to add the LED back lighting.
do these have to be printed in white?
No it does not need to be. but white or off white does tend to look better. Probably stay away from black since it blocks a lot of light.
Is 50 printing speed ok?
Yea 50 should be ok 👍
wow this is so cool!
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it
Is a risin printer not more usefull for pictures?
I haven't tried it! I imagine it would be pretty good at lithophanes, but might be more limited on the size you can produce.
Yes, infact I find with even my entry level resin printer, I can print a 4x6 lythophane in 16min or less and have the print resolution of 0.034
nice work. thx
No problem 👍
Can this be done with resin 3d printer
I haven’t personally done it but from the physics of I believe it can be done. The overall size may be smaller on a resin printer but the resolution should be excellent!
In 3…2…1… Me: Wow, that is good! Thanks!
Thanks glad it was helpful!