You're so awesome at this type of stuff! I don't watch very many other YT reviewers, but I always take the time to watch yours. I always learn something! Thank you!!!
I ordered 2 of the 15" Monoliths through your links. My wife I am sure is going to be thrilled. I hope you get your cut. I really like your channel. You do an excellent job of showing your measurements and describing your findings. Always looking forward to you next reviews. Keep up the great work.
Great review here, wasn't sure I would understand some of the discussion but you explained it well and my Monolith 15 is on the way! Hoping it gives you the credit as I went through the link you provided, well deserved and thanks again!
Because of your review I purchased the Monolith 15. Coming from 10 inch Klipsch, what a dramatic difference. Even at wife friendly volumes still sounds amazing. Keep up the great work. Thanks.
"There's a lot of junk out there..." ...Great review. I don't watch "subjective" reviewers("The bass is awesome in these here speakers"). ''Objective'' information is what I'm looking for and you bring the facts to the table,Erin. I've used many of your reviews to direct me toward the equipment I'm looking for. Thanks again!
@@ErinsAudioCorner My Monolith 10" came in today and I couldn't be happier. Your reviews are fantastic and definitely influence your subscribers. Thank you for all of your expert level reviews!
This is a terrific, educational video. I thank you very much for your patient, methodical approach. Would really liked for you to have reviewed the smaller SVS subwoofers for a 2-channel system in a smaller room.
I was looking at both the Hsu Research and the Monolith 12" and finally got a little bit of discount to alleviate the shipping somewhat. However, I have not opened that sub out of its box yet. Instead, I had a pair of immaculate aDs 910s practically drop into my lap. The 910s go down to 25htz or so in-room and it is glorious, tuneful bass. I was using one of the SVS PB-2000 subs with them since it was already set up in the room, but I found that it only added some impact to the mid-bass, but that's also because everything is shoehorned into a small bedroom! Once we move and the system gets some legroom, I'll try both subs with either the 910s or, more likely the smaller aDs L810s.
it's likely that a pole piece would reduce cooling air velocity. The idea is to get the air to move across the coil to cool it down, the two sets of vents (under the cone and above the magnets) will act as the airflow in and out. it's like blowing thru a regular straw vs a wide straw, you can only exhale so much air so the slimmer straw will allow for more pressure out the other end vs the wide straw.
The Monolith sub line has been updated so a new video review would be nice to see. I have a 10" v2 on the way and am wondering how it compares to the old version and competition. After seeing frequency response charts of budget subs like the ones you showed I think people are actually worsening their systems using them if they have even small floor standing speakers.
Just subscribed, you are a legit reviewer and I appreciate the effort you are putting into some of these videos. I am currently in the market for a sub and am really considering this 10" monoprice sub. I am just trying to figure out if I want below ~25-30 hz response or if I would be satisfied with a mid bass type sub and some extra cash.
If it's a smaller room then the 10 should still give you good output down that low. But if it is a large room, yes, you will be sacrificing the low end extension to some degree.
I have a Logitech z5500 that I bought in like 2004 or 2005 and have been using that as my cheap HT setup in the living room. It's not made for that but I was a broke college student. Now that I am building a dedicated theater in the basement, I bought the 10 inch Monolith which arrived yesterday. Even running it on the lowest volume, I can tell the difference already. Only reason I didn't get the 12 inch was due to space constraints. Can't wait to finish break in and blast this baby
Four of the 12", with one in each corner, should give you THX level bass in most smaller rooms, i.e. 115dB peak SPL at the listening position, down to atleast 20Hz but probably a bit lower still, maybe down to as low as 16Hz. These are fantastic subs for the money. About the group delay on these, it remains below 1 cycle at all frequencies regardless of the number of ports open, atleast on the 12". You normally only see this on sealed subs in my (perhaps limited) experience, atleast in the budget price range.
if you cant get 115db peak with 4 12s then something is wrong. ive got 110db max spl at my seating position with one 10 in a diy box in the corner and my room is 13 x18 open to a kitchen. you should be able to get alot more with one in each corner. if thats all these subs can do the i will just stay with diy subs.
5 db is so nice and audible over the sealed and if group delay is no issue why not go with open ports? Excellent review Erin. Thanks, and your subjective opinions are welcomed and I beseech you to share them!
Indeed. And 5dB doesn't seem huge but if you know anything about acoustics you know that once you get above 100dB, it starts getting harder and harder to get more and more SPL. In the SPL competition world of car audio those guys are excited to gain 0.5dB at the output levels they are doing. Definitely an exponential curve (or log?... ehhhh, whatever, you know what I mean).
Really like your reviews because you show definitive data along with listing for port noise. I would also like to see you put your ear up close to the subs and listen for 60-cycle hum which I have heard from cheaper subs (and even cheaper subs from well known brands) when they are just plugged in and in standby mode reflecting poorly on the quality of the amp. Would love to see a review of the Bic America F-12, H-100II and PL-200II like you did for the Monolith subs because they get a lot of good subjective reviews but no one shows the data like you do so it's hard to tell if they really go as low as their specs. They are very attractively priced so the hope would be that they would show much better data than the budget subs you reviewed for only incrementally more money since subs like the Monolith's are great but also costly.
Thanks, Erin! As always, an excellent and informative test & review. :) I know that it's impossible for you to evaluate, but one aspect that is difficult to determine when buying & reviewing any product, but especially "budget-minded" audio products, is their longevity (irrespective of performance). If needed, will replacement parts be stocked and available for a decent length of time? Many of these budget and mid-tier audio products are revamped or redesigned on increasingly short cycles, so exact replacement parts (which would guarantee their original performance) are no longer available just a year or two later after the initial purchase. :-( Or, for instance, what happens if your young child rams his Tonka Truck into the subwoofer cone, or the cat decides to use the rubber surround as its scratching post, etc? But the most common failure point I see in most of the "budget" active subwoofers (and active bookshelf speakers) is failure of the "plate amplifier". Of course, all manufacturers have a reputation to uphold, and these days with social media, RUclips, Amazon reviews and the like, manufacturers know that both good & bad news travels fast. So hopefully, manufacturers will be more & more persuaded to provide better quality products that last the test of time. Unfortunately, IME unless a product fails extremely early in its "expected" lifespan, very few consumers are still invested enough or interested enough to post a follow-up review regarding the issue. By that time, an audio enthusiast usually chalks up any issues to his/her decision to purchase that specific budget product, and the "you get what you pay for" rationale settles in. Enthusiasts also tend to get the "upgrade-itis" bug over in short time and just want to move on and step-up to something "better" without posting their negative experience. So we often aren't aware of as many longevity issues as there may be. When purchasing "higher end" brands or products, we expect them to perform better & longer, and those manufacturers will usually (but not always) have better support or repair service in place. Just an observance and something to consider with any purchase. Might have to steal Steve's "Captain Obvious" moniker here. :-P
Love your videos! And I’d love to see you test some HSU subwoofers. Specifically the HSU VTF 15H, which I think is the best value for the money out there (especially when it’s on sale for roughly $900).
Thanks! Yea, I'd like to test HSU subs as well. Bic is another brand. There are a lot of speakers I would love to test. Only so many free hours in the day, though, unfortunately. Not to mention having to either find the money to buy them to test or find someone that is willing to loan me one to test.
Thank you Aaron for this great video. I was thinking about getting the 10-in version of this. But as of right now all there subwoofers are pre-order only now these subwoofers are selling like hot cakes. And again I want to say thank you for reviewing these home subwoofers I know you work a job you said so in the video wow and I found out you like car audio I'm a bass head from the 90s really earlier than that when I was a kid that's when I fell in love with messing with all kinds of speakers amplifiers tuners I mean you name it even got into citizens band radio the CB antennas and when you talk about radiation patterns from speakers that's the same thing sort of, and tuning antennas like yaggy beam antennas and omnidirectional, antennas have a radiation pattern too, and there's a quarter wave half wave and more it's so cool they admit frequencies speakers and antennas when transmitting, they also are tunable like a speaker box to a speaker anyway I said too much thank you for taking all the time to do these studies that you do you're like a mad scientist but happy if that makes sense keep up the good work stay safe. 🙏✌️
These go on sale regularly, making the prices unbeatable. Looking around the market (Europe) this sort of output power costs two to three times as much from other companies. Granted, you do get a nicer finish and sometimes more features there.
Oh, cool! Which one did you get? Were there others you were looking at? Just wondering... I plan to keep testing subwoofers and am trying to keep tabs on what people are most interested in. Enjoy yours!
@@ErinsAudioCorner I bought the 10 inch. The plan is to run a dual setup, so I was curious about the Monolith. I also looked at the SVS PB-1000 and the REL Acoustics HT/1003. None matched the power and the features of the Monolith at this price-point (e.g., Balanced XLR connections, Power, and THX certification). Your test data definitely helped in the process. Thanks.
Noted! Problem is getting them (paying for them). I usually rely on loaners to be able to test more expensive stuff because I can't afford to buy them just to test. If you have one of the REL subs and might be willing to send it in for testing sometime, give me a shout.
Thanks for this review as it's been very very helpful. I plan to mate the 10-inch sub with my newly acquired Kali LP-8v2. I may need to downgrade them to a 6v2 should I get this sub. BTW, the 10-inch is now $650, not $500 as the 10-inch you reviewed has been discontinued, so your affiliate link to this Gen1 subs points to discontinued products on their website :(
I had a klipsch 10" for years and thought it was awesome but then I got the monolith 10" and 🤪👌👍. Makes the klipsch sound like the cheap subs that come with soundbars
@@jjguillen65 Have my 10" Monolith in a large room with an opening to the kitchen and dinning room. Lets just say I have it at around 50% volume and it shakes everything.
Nice review Also would be great if you can make a video on how to use miniDSP and Rew Would like to go extra step in having a fantastic sound system There are many videos but just can’t follow it.I am sure you can make a far better video
Finally some actual DATA on the Monoliths! I have a question about the "all tested with same input signal" I notice between the 10, 12, and 15 inch, @20hz the bigger the sub the less it outputs (for the same signal) is that correct?
Thank you for the in-depth review of these subs, after reviewing multiple sources I took the plunge today (while they are still on sale) and ordered two of the 12" versions through you affiliation link (its the least I could do for all the work you put in). To me it seemed that the 12" subs kept up with the 15" across the frequency sweep but just gave up 4-5 dB in total output, considering dual subs add 5-6 dB it seemed like the best price/performance option to get two of these instead of one 15". Looking forward to building my theater room over the winter... I have a pile of speakers waiting for their home and when these arrive the pile will be a mountain ;^) I'm using Sony SSCS5 for sides, rear and Atmos (I may change the ports to front firing)... any chance you may review these speakers in the future, they get a lot of fantastic reviews? For the front LCR I will be running my old school Cerwin Vega VS-120's, trying something different then everyone else... hope it all blends well. Thanks again for the review, I can't wait to hear, and more importantly, feel these Monoliths!
I would look at there Monolith THX - 365T Ultra Mini-towers, and the matching THX - 365C Ultra Centre speakers, for a great front sound stage, you obviously already have the subs you need.
I got the 10" THX for my rear sub to compliment the two SVS PB1000 Pro's in the front and I can definitely tell that 10 is back there. They are powerful. I did not get a 3rd PB1000 Pro because SVS raised the price by $300 (I paid $600 and they are now $900 so to me they are no longer worth it at that price)
@@billybobby7607 that's myth/lie told by manufacturer s, you can mix subs no problems. That nonsense is manufactures wanting to sell more of their stuff
Pretty much all budget ported subs have the mid-bass hump, then fall off sharply. Their port tuning is MUCH higher than a non-budget sub. This is why budget subs tend to have a lot of unnatural output in that 50-70Hz range, then drop like a rock with no extension.
Maybe so. I’m hopeful as this channel grows (assuming it does) that I can connect with people somewhat local to me who are willing to loan me stuff to test because some manufacturers won’t loan me review samples. So, hopefully I’ll get the opportunity to test some REL subs in the future. Cheers for the reply.
I wish I had seen your review before I purchased the sub direct from Monoprice. I would have purchased through your link. Great review with the best data I have seen in any review. Very informative. I bought 2 of the 10" model for my home theater. I can't wait to get them...
Subscribed sorry it took so long lol. If you had a choice between monoprice 12 or svs pb2000 pro which would you pick? Thanks. Cya later today 4pm live.
I am really happy to follow your great reviews. For this family of THX ultra subwoofer, I am curious to know the amplifier's noise if you still have them in mind. Did you hear any soft noise, kind of hiss from a distance less than 1m. Many thanks.
I looked at the spreadsheet and thought it was interesting the 12 and 15 were about equal at 20Hz in CEA-2010-A testing but the 15 pulled ahead pretty evenly at every frequency in CEA-2010-B.
Yep. That’s the nature of the two tests. The -B version is more forgiving of distortion at lower frequencies and less at higher frequencies. I personally think this makes more sense given how masking and frequency of distortion works. But since no one else provides -B, I also chose to test using the -A standard so people can compare (within reason) my results against others’.
Nice video! Now I want to buy a 10 inch for the apartment. Can you make a video about setting up 1 or more of those subs in one's system (crossover, device compatibility, outputs/inputs/balanced, phase, how exactly to measure the perfect crossover, when exactly are we done, when do we do the "crawl technique", etc.)? I understand it will be much harder to set up than SVS subs, even more without AV receiver? I mean... many say "do this until it sounds best", but for a guy who never owned a sub, that's not very informative.
What do you think about measuring speed? I’ve heard many different subs and just the freq response isn’t a full indicator of performance so i’m curious how one would meaure that
I have 2 Polk HTS-10 and 2 Polk HTS-12 subs. I'd love to see how they compare. In my opinion, the HTS-12 has a significant drop-off under 30Hz, but they sound amazing down to it and tamber match my speakers really well. I might be wrong, but since I have all Polks (Reserves now, but I had Signature when I bought them), I think they match nicely, and it's hard to hear where I go from the speaker to the sub. I'd like to see these reviewed because I'd like to know where they're good and where they're bad. Helps when upgrading because I need to upgrade to subs that solve a specific issue, and I don't know what issue I'm solving if that makes sense. Monolith subs sound great, but they're super heavy. I have two SVS PC-2000 Pro subs and would also like to see how they compare to other subs in the same range; especially the PC-4000s (which are way outta that range, but in my upgrade path). From what I understand, these can go down to at least 16Hz in my room (not sure how loud), but since I can't hear very low, I'm making assumptions based on how much things shake. My thinking is that the SVS cylinder subs produce more bass because they aim it directly at the floor. Since both my home theaters are on the first and second floor (not the basement), I get a ton of room-shake; enough to feel it in the couch and my memoryfoam mattress. I have TONS of questions but no easy way to get answers. I like that your channel gives answers, but those answers are only useful when comparing to what I already own if that makes sense. Over time, it'll be better because people won't only be comparing Sub A and B from 2026, they'll be comparing those two options to their 2020 Sub X that you reviewed in the past using your same measurement tools. It's a great reference point. My endgame speakers and subs are probably gonna be JTRs. Those are a $40K+ investment just for the speakers let alone the subs. I have no reference for how they'd play in my smaller 12x11' room with an open side wall into the kitchen. That means I don't know which size to buy or the kind of sound I'm gonna get. Should I go sealed or ported? What about if I move houses? These are the kinds of questions I'd like to answer, so I can simply save up and wait rather than having to spend nights and nights doing research.
I just pulled the trigger on dual 12's for $1300 plus tax on Ebay with the current sale. Amazing price and I think the 12 goes under the radar because people focus more on the flagship 15". The 12" is a beast in it's own right!
Haha. So glad you got the joke. Otherwise that might have been aw-kwaaaard. Yep. I’ll check in to them and try to keep them in mind for a future review.
The pole piece doesn't need to be vented because the holes in the coupling of the cone and the voice coil are doing the same thing. I believe it's often decided based on of there is an expectation of an obstruction behind the magnet, like a shallow box or even just bracing.
You may very well be right on their decision for this. Still, I simply would have expected an additional vent near the bottom of the VC would help to provide additional cooling so that the bottom portion doesn't burn up first (something that is often seen in failed bass units per my previous research). It was more of an observation than a conclusion as I don't have the numbers for failed units and I've yet to see anyone mention that they've had such issues. Still, I do wonder if there would be an improvement in compression. Someone smarter than me would have to tell me that. And there's a lot of folks out there who fit that bill. ;)
I think it can work fine either way. The venting around the frame is doing most of the thermal work. This is more of a sound quality issue, and cost, from understanding. Either way can work.
@@ErinsAudioCorner You will more than likely find that the vent at the bottom of the speaker can and will cause more turbulence in the cabinet and this could then lead to more distortion through the cabinet ports due to the chopping of air inside the cabinet through this vent, The front cooling vents will also aid in moving air through the cabinet with the speakers excursions (movement).
I think it really depends on what you're looking to listen to. Generally speaking, movies have more LF content below 30Hz than music. Most sealed woofers - at least decent ones - have no issues getting down to 30Hz. But below that is where ported really seems to help out.
While all three of these subs provide excellent bass extension for a sound system, the lack of exposed heat sink fins to cool the amp output circuit concerns me regarding longevity.
Wow! I don't remember the last time I've seen a RUclips video and learned so much. Thank you for putting this together. I'm actually me to home theaters systems and I'm looking in purchasing dual subs. I'm thinking about purchasing dual monoliths or dual PB1000 Pros. What are your thoughts on these dual options 12" for a room size 20' x 13'?
Glad it was helpful! I think both are equal in terms of output capability and fidelity. It really comes down to needs. If you have equalization (via your AVR, pre/pro, or external like a miniDSP) then you could probably save money and go with the Monolith. If you don't, then I suggest the SVS and to use their app so you can EQ the response in your room for multiple seats. And as a cheap plug, if you don't mind, please consider using one of my affiliate links as it helps me keep doing what I'm doing. You can find them in the description portion of my videos. Hope that helps. - Erin
@@ErinsAudioCorner thank you Erin! It looks like I'm leaning towards the PB1000's just because of the size of not being as big for the space. I'm not familiar with mini Dsp, I'm new to all this. And I most definitely will be using your links to purchase, with the information you are providing your audience, it's the least we can do. By the way, what is mini Dsp and how can I learn more about it?
I am looking to upgrade my current subs (2). I have one spl-120 and the r-12sw. The r-12sw is pretty punchy but doesn't go very low and the spl- does just the opposite. Would you recommend either the 10 or 12 Monolith as a replacement? I only want to run one sub. Thanks
Just a note: even if you have the sub right next to the speaker, it won’t be time/phase aligned, the internal DSP in these will add some delay. This is why whenever you do an auto-EQ with an AVR, it always sets it a good 1-4ft off from the physical distance. As for phase vs time: yes they are different, but in practice does it really matter? We are less sensitive to timing differences in the bass, so you should be able to give up a few ms of timing accuracy in order to achieve phase-matching without consequence. Phase adjustment on a subwoofer is not adjusting phase, it is adjusting delay. PSA subs even label it Delay with the ms offsets instead of the phase angles, because that’s technically more accurate. Rythmik’s website also states that phase adjustment and delay via an AVR is the same.
I don’t disagree. It is more implementation and proper labeling on a product. IME, variable phase is a second-order APF. Which is different than time delay where time delay is independent of frequency and APF is not.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Agreed. So, the knobs don’t actually adjust phase, it’s simply a delay: www.rythmikaudio.com/phase.html www.rythmikaudio.com/phase3.html “So it is important to note "adding delay time in time domain" = "adding negative phase angle" = "subtracting physical distance in AVR".” A true phase adjustment will indeed happen with a filter, so when you set your AVR/integrated to cross the speakers/sub. Thus, if you didn’t crossover, then, to my knowledge, a different delay adjustment would be needed.
@@homeboi808 I took MP at their "word" that this is indeed an actual phase-adjustment (akin to the 0/180° polarity "phase" adjustment). I will reach out to them and see if I can get verification it is what it is labeled as and not just time delay. If I have the opportunity on a future subwoofer test which has this variable phase, I'll test the actual amplifier output to the subwoofer to see if it's actual phase or time delay. IMHO, they should be measured specifically because they are indeed two completely separate things. And, the difference is not insignificant because one can easily be in phase but be out of time if the cycle is a full 360° rotation. Plus it takes a lot of time to make up for a decent phase adjustment at these wavelengths. I have a lot of experience with this feature from the car audio world but also from using pro-audio DSPs (Rane, for one) and I can say without a doubt one can easily tell the difference when the delay is significant enough to be back in-phase (or, conversely, out of time but in phase) with an A/B/X test. On another note, it's funny you linked Rythmik's literature. I actually tested one of their subwoofers years back and noted the variable phase, but at the time, didn't consider the implication of it being true time delay rather than an all-pass filter (phase). www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/rythmik-f12g-direct-servo-subwoofer/ At any rate, cheers for the reply. Good stuff.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Yeah, I think PSA is the only one that properly labels the adjustment as a delay (even though Rythmik acknowledges). I did see that review but forgot about it. You note its ~18mm one-way excursion as impressive, which is funny as on your Reddit thread for these subs I got into a conversation with another user about a REL 1508 and how it boasts 150mm 2-way on its site. rel.net/shop/powered-subwoofers/serie-ht/ht-1508-predator That obviously is insane, so if by some good fortune you are able to get your hands on one, I’d love to see if that’s even remotely true.
To be clear, the 18mm is one-way. I don't know if that's linear or mechanical as they don't distinguish that. On the REL, I see that's peak-to-peak but I can't imagine it is linear excursion per IEC 60268; probably just mechanical.
I purchased the 12" and set it up only to find there was little or no output. Spent almost an hour with a Monoprice tech guy on the phone. Conclusion was that the amp was bad. They will pick up and credit. Disappointed I got a defective unit, but the service and return policy is fantastic. I'm inclined to still go with Monoprice (they do have a 5 year warranty), but here's my conundrum. The 12" is huge! I'm replacing a 20-25 year old 12" Velodyne (amp gave up the ghost) that was ok sounding. I would rather have the 10" for its smaller size. Room is 20x20. Listen to music and watch surround movies, but neither are ever cranked volume wise. Would I be disappointed with the 10" or should I stick with the 12"? :)
Well, ideally two of the same subwoofers would be best but you don't HAVE to pair subwoofers identically. The cheaper one, being limited in extension and overall output, would likely be best placed closer to the listening position and at a location where it helps smooth the overall response. You'll have to play around with positioning and I would recommend using software like REW and a USB microphone to help determine what works best as far as placement goes.
I like your YT on subwoofers the most, mainly because of the quantitatively measured content. I hear others talking about SQ and SPL without profound information. That is not really serious in my opinion. There is something missing in most of the videos and I think also in yours: "tonality", the ability to hit the right tones. I am not sure why that is a problem for speakers, but some may be better or worse. So, would you say that the Monolith could be something like a "audiophile", "musical" or SQ speaker? Can it run on it's own without dominating? Playing loud seems to be no problem looking at the data...
Very nice review. Out of curiosity how would you say the monolith 10 compares. With the likes of a HSU Research VTF2-MK5? Just trying to determine if the HSU is worth the extra $116 (shipping factored in).
Great video yet again. Can you tell us why audiophiles like sealed subs more than ported and do you think spending all that cash to get a REL sub is worth it or it's good enough to go with an svs or monolith. Txx
I think there may be a couple reasons. One is maybe ported just has a bad reputation from years of old when the ported designs were sub-optimal (ha! pun not intended). Years and years of junk designs could cause people to think that is inherent of all ported enclosures. But it's not. Second may be the increase in group delay. There are some who believe group delay over a particular value (it varies, depending on who you ask) is audible. Personally, I am more concerned with group delay at the crossover region because you can't un-do time issues caused in the "mechanical" sense (subwoofer + enclosure design); those issues will always be there. If the GD is high (maybe greater than a few milliseconds, depending on the frequency) then it makes phase alignment and time alignment at the crossover point between the subwoofer and the mains much harder and practically impossible to be 100% correct. Ported enclosures also, by nature, have lower frequency extension which are more prone to annoying rattles or igniting modal issues that a sealed woofer might not highlight because the SPL of a sealed woofer just isn't the same as the ported at a particular frequency. My $0.02, though.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Erin, I think that a video dedicated to the topic of *Group Delay* would be very well-received and extremely popular because IME it's very misunderstood, somewhat like the "Damping Factor" of an amplifier. Great videos, Amigo! Keep it up! I think your channel will start to grow exponentially really soon and will begin to reach a much larger audience than just posting on the various car & home audio forums. 👍
FYI potential buyers: I have to run sub signal cable with splitter to both sub RCA ins, because sub output on my AVR (Denon AVR-X3300W) is quite low for these subs and still I am at +3 dB on the back plate. All previous subs I had (Canton, Audiovector) have no issues like that.
@@kilgoretrout5456 Yeah, sorry didn't mentioned why is it an issue. Every step above 0dB brings up a little of a noise. +6dB has quite substantial noise already noticeable on listening position 3 meters away (in quiet room).
I have the new monolith thx 13 and have to do the same thing, run an rca y- splitter to both stereo inputs. I tested this out with a proper decible meter and the y splitter gained me 6db increase across the whole range. I tested the same few scenes in movies over and over, the rca splitter helps improve the low power output. These monolith amps need a stronger singnal than what most avr's out put. No issues with my avr powering pro audio amps or svs subs so the issue lies with monoprice.
You're so awesome at this type of stuff! I don't watch very many other YT reviewers, but I always take the time to watch yours. I always learn something! Thank you!!!
Wow, thank you!
Joe stopped by and gave you props. Now THAT is a flex!
@@joshuarichard2509 What's up Joshua. Thanks for the shout out! 👊😎
@Joshua Richard @@joentell and I are cool like that. LOL
I ordered 2 of the 15" Monoliths through your links. My wife I am sure is going to be thrilled. I hope you get your cut. I really like your channel. You do an excellent job of showing your measurements and describing your findings. Always looking forward to you next reviews. Keep up the great work.
Awesome! Thank you for the feedback and the support!
Awesome video! Been waiting for a good objective review of the Monolith subs and glad to hear you like them.
I like your videos, I have a 12, and I am very satisfied with it. Keep up the great work.
Great review! Appreciate the work you put into these for us. Love the graphs!
Glad you like them!
Great review, had my 10" for a month now, it's my first subwoofer and I love it!
First sub....I remember my first sub like it was yesterday lol! Enjoy
Do remember port noise with movies did you have to adjust on it to help get rid of the noise? Monolith 10"
Great review here, wasn't sure I would understand some of the discussion but you explained it well and my Monolith 15 is on the way! Hoping it gives you the credit as I went through the link you provided, well deserved and thanks again!
Glad it was helpful! That kind of feedback makes me excited to keep doing this stuff. And thanks for helping out by using the affiliate link. :)
Because of your review I purchased the Monolith 15. Coming from 10 inch Klipsch, what a dramatic difference. Even at wife friendly volumes still sounds amazing. Keep up the great work. Thanks.
Awesome, man! Glad to hear it's working out for you. I also feel sorry for your back because that thing is heavy!
jesus christ that's a ridiculous upgrade, i'm going from a yamaha 8 inch studio sub to the 12in thx
I've been looking for one of those here in Mexico.
I was also looking for a vídeo like this so thanks for sharing 👍🏻
"There's a lot of junk out there..." ...Great review. I don't watch "subjective" reviewers("The bass is awesome in these here speakers"). ''Objective'' information is what I'm looking for and you bring the facts to the table,Erin. I've used many of your reviews to direct me toward the equipment I'm looking for. Thanks again!
I appreciate that, and thanks for the sub. :)
I remember the poor skinny FedEx driver rolling the huge Monolith 15 box up to the door. Great beastly subwoofer 👍
I just finished packing all three of these up and my back is hating me for it. LOL
@@ErinsAudioCorner 😬😆👍
This video has really helped me as I'm building my system from scratch for the 2nd time. Research is key. Thank you!
Glad it helped!
@@ErinsAudioCorner Thanks man. It's fun starting over with all new gear.
@@ErinsAudioCorner My Monolith 10" came in today and I couldn't be happier. Your reviews are fantastic and definitely influence your subscribers. Thank you for all of your expert level reviews!
@@tinmangarage346 keep the original packing...they fail...A LOT...hope you have better luck than I did.
super helpful as always - thanks for the thorough testing and clear presentation
Thank you!
This is a terrific, educational video. I thank you very much for your patient, methodical approach. Would really liked for you to have reviewed the smaller SVS subwoofers for a 2-channel system in a smaller room.
Super straight forward and upto point review. Appreciate your great work...
Thanks a lot🙂🙂🙂
I was looking at both the Hsu Research and the Monolith 12" and finally got a little bit of discount to alleviate the shipping somewhat. However, I have not opened that sub out of its box yet. Instead, I had a pair of immaculate aDs 910s practically drop into my lap. The 910s go down to 25htz or so in-room and it is glorious, tuneful bass. I was using one of the SVS PB-2000 subs with them since it was already set up in the room, but I found that it only added some impact to the mid-bass, but that's also because everything is shoehorned into a small bedroom!
Once we move and the system gets some legroom, I'll try both subs with either the 910s or, more likely the smaller aDs L810s.
Excellent video. Very informative.
it's likely that a pole piece would reduce cooling air velocity. The idea is to get the air to move across the coil to cool it down, the two sets of vents (under the cone and above the magnets) will act as the airflow in and out. it's like blowing thru a regular straw vs a wide straw, you can only exhale so much air so the slimmer straw will allow for more pressure out the other end vs the wide straw.
Great in depth review!
Much appreciated!
That's a real good review, thanks .. !
The Monolith sub line has been updated so a new video review would be nice to see. I have a 10" v2 on the way and am wondering how it compares to the old version and competition. After seeing frequency response charts of budget subs like the ones you showed I think people are actually worsening their systems using them if they have even small floor standing speakers.
Awesome review definitely gonna give the 10 inch model a try in the future
Cool. The 10-inch version is a very nice subwoofer; especially for the price.
@@ErinsAudioCorner I own a 10 right but a klipsch subwoofer. so I’m used to there sound. But the THX one will definitely beat the one I own rn
Just subscribed, you are a legit reviewer and I appreciate the effort you are putting into some of these videos. I am currently in the market for a sub and am really considering this 10" monoprice sub. I am just trying to figure out if I want below ~25-30 hz response or if I would be satisfied with a mid bass type sub and some extra cash.
If it's a smaller room then the 10 should still give you good output down that low. But if it is a large room, yes, you will be sacrificing the low end extension to some degree.
You back up what you say. Brilliant! Subscribed :))
I have a Logitech z5500 that I bought in like 2004 or 2005 and have been using that as my cheap HT setup in the living room. It's not made for that but I was a broke college student. Now that I am building a dedicated theater in the basement, I bought the 10 inch Monolith which arrived yesterday. Even running it on the lowest volume, I can tell the difference already. Only reason I didn't get the 12 inch was due to space constraints. Can't wait to finish break in and blast this baby
Congrats! Getting that first “real” audio piece is always fun.
Do have port noise with movies did you have to adjust on it to help get rid of the noise? Monolith 10"
Awesome review. Hope you get a chance to test out the new definitive technology descend subs that just came out.
Quality review m8.
Excellent work! 👍🏻
Thanks a lot!
Great review subbed
Four of the 12", with one in each corner, should give you THX level bass in most smaller rooms, i.e. 115dB peak SPL at the listening position, down to atleast 20Hz but probably a bit lower still, maybe down to as low as 16Hz. These are fantastic subs for the money.
About the group delay on these, it remains below 1 cycle at all frequencies regardless of the number of ports open, atleast on the 12". You normally only see this on sealed subs in my (perhaps limited) experience, atleast in the budget price range.
if you cant get 115db peak with 4 12s then something is wrong. ive got 110db max spl at my seating position with one 10 in a diy box in the corner and my room is 13 x18 open to a kitchen. you should be able to get alot more with one in each corner. if thats all these subs can do the i will just stay with diy subs.
5 db is so nice and audible over the sealed and if group delay is no issue why not go with open ports? Excellent review Erin. Thanks, and your subjective opinions are welcomed and I beseech you to share them!
Indeed. And 5dB doesn't seem huge but if you know anything about acoustics you know that once you get above 100dB, it starts getting harder and harder to get more and more SPL. In the SPL competition world of car audio those guys are excited to gain 0.5dB at the output levels they are doing. Definitely an exponential curve (or log?... ehhhh, whatever, you know what I mean).
Really like your reviews because you show definitive data along with listing for port noise. I would also like to see you put your ear up close to the subs and listen for 60-cycle hum which I have heard from cheaper subs (and even cheaper subs from well known brands) when they are just plugged in and in standby mode reflecting poorly on the quality of the amp. Would love to see a review of the Bic America F-12, H-100II and PL-200II like you did for the Monolith subs because they get a lot of good subjective reviews but no one shows the data like you do so it's hard to tell if they really go as low as their specs. They are very attractively priced so the hope would be that they would show much better data than the budget subs you reviewed for only incrementally more money since subs like the Monolith's are great but also costly.
I do plan/hope to test the F-12 at some point. I want to do a 12-inch budget subwoofer shootout this Spring and that is on my list of ones to test.
Thanks, Erin! As always, an excellent and informative test & review. :)
I know that it's impossible for you to evaluate, but one aspect that is difficult to determine when buying & reviewing any product, but especially "budget-minded" audio products, is their longevity (irrespective of performance).
If needed, will replacement parts be stocked and available for a decent length of time?
Many of these budget and mid-tier audio products are revamped or redesigned on increasingly short cycles, so exact replacement parts (which would guarantee their original performance) are no longer available just a year or two later after the initial purchase. :-(
Or, for instance, what happens if your young child rams his Tonka Truck into the subwoofer cone, or the cat decides to use the rubber surround as its scratching post, etc?
But the most common failure point I see in most of the "budget" active subwoofers (and active bookshelf speakers) is failure of the "plate amplifier".
Of course, all manufacturers have a reputation to uphold, and these days with social media, RUclips, Amazon reviews and the like, manufacturers know that both good & bad news travels fast.
So hopefully, manufacturers will be more & more persuaded to provide better quality products that last the test of time.
Unfortunately, IME unless a product fails extremely early in its "expected" lifespan, very few consumers are still invested enough or interested enough to post a follow-up review regarding the issue.
By that time, an audio enthusiast usually chalks up any issues to his/her decision to purchase that specific budget product, and the "you get what you pay for" rationale settles in.
Enthusiasts also tend to get the "upgrade-itis" bug over in short time and just want to move on and step-up to something "better" without posting their negative experience. So we often aren't aware of as many longevity issues as there may be.
When purchasing "higher end" brands or products, we expect them to perform better & longer, and those manufacturers will usually (but not always) have better support or repair service in place.
Just an observance and something to consider with any purchase. Might have to steal Steve's "Captain Obvious" moniker here. :-P
Love your videos! And I’d love to see you test some HSU subwoofers. Specifically the HSU VTF 15H, which I think is the best value for the money out there (especially when it’s on sale for roughly $900).
Thanks! Yea, I'd like to test HSU subs as well.
Bic is another brand. There are a lot of speakers I would love to test. Only so many free hours in the day, though, unfortunately. Not to mention having to either find the money to buy them to test or find someone that is willing to loan me one to test.
Thank you Aaron for this great video. I was thinking about getting the 10-in version of this. But as of right now all there subwoofers are pre-order only now these subwoofers are selling like hot cakes. And again I want to say thank you for reviewing these home subwoofers I know you work a job you said so in the video wow and I found out you like car audio I'm a bass head from the 90s really earlier than that when I was a kid that's when I fell in love with messing with all kinds of speakers amplifiers tuners I mean you name it even got into citizens band radio the CB antennas and when you talk about radiation patterns from speakers that's the same thing sort of, and tuning antennas like yaggy beam antennas and omnidirectional, antennas have a radiation pattern too, and there's a quarter wave half wave and more it's so cool they admit frequencies speakers and antennas when transmitting, they also are tunable like a speaker box to a speaker anyway I said too much thank you for taking all the time to do these studies that you do you're like a mad scientist but happy if that makes sense keep up the good work stay safe. 🙏✌️
Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate it. 👍
These go on sale regularly, making the prices unbeatable. Looking around the market (Europe) this sort of output power costs two to three times as much from other companies. Granted, you do get a nicer finish and sometimes more features there.
Thank you!
Super review
monoprice surprisingly makes great gear. Its by far not the best, but its leaps and bounds better than what you can get at their price point.
Great review. I just bought one!
Oh, cool! Which one did you get? Were there others you were looking at? Just wondering... I plan to keep testing subwoofers and am trying to keep tabs on what people are most interested in. Enjoy yours!
@@ErinsAudioCorner I bought the 10 inch. The plan is to run a dual setup, so I was curious about the Monolith. I also looked at the SVS PB-1000 and the REL Acoustics HT/1003. None matched the power and the features of the Monolith at this price-point (e.g., Balanced XLR connections, Power, and THX certification). Your test data definitely helped in the process. Thanks.
@@Neoprene00 good to know. Thanks for the reply.
Great review! Would love if you could review some REL subs, especially the REL HT/1508
Noted! Problem is getting them (paying for them). I usually rely on loaners to be able to test more expensive stuff because I can't afford to buy them just to test. If you have one of the REL subs and might be willing to send it in for testing sometime, give me a shout.
Thanks for this review as it's been very very helpful. I plan to mate the 10-inch sub with my newly acquired Kali LP-8v2. I may need to downgrade them to a 6v2 should I get this sub. BTW, the 10-inch is now $650, not $500 as the 10-inch you reviewed has been discontinued, so your affiliate link to this Gen1 subs points to discontinued products on their website :(
Great review bro. thanks
Thanks for watching!
I have one Monolith 12" V2 pointed at my sofa and suitably shakes the room even at low levels
Love my dual monolith 15's
Bet that’s fun. 👍
@@ErinsAudioCorner oh yea man shakes the house pretty good 👍
Still working my friend??Thanks in advance!!!!!
Those are some nice subs. I was thinking about getting a klipsch but I just chsnge my mind 😃 thanks buddy.
I had a klipsch 10" for years and thought it was awesome but then I got the monolith 10" and 🤪👌👍. Makes the klipsch sound like the cheap subs that come with soundbars
@@stckyjoey1 Wow. Last week I was about to get a klipsch sub. Definitely looking into monolith for sure.
@@jjguillen65 Have my 10" Monolith in a large room with an opening to the kitchen and dinning room. Lets just say I have it at around 50% volume and it shakes everything.
@@RascalCatify hell yeah!!
I’d like to see a review of the monolith thx 465t or 460t, there are no reviews out there on these speakers. Good review on the subs, thanks
I love my Monolith 12 thx
It's a solid sub, for sure.
Nice review
Also would be great if you can make a video on how to use miniDSP and Rew
Would like to go extra step in having a fantastic sound system
There are many videos but just can’t follow it.I am sure you can make a far better video
Finally some actual DATA on the Monoliths!
I have a question about the "all tested with same input signal"
I notice between the 10, 12, and 15 inch, @20hz the bigger the sub the less it outputs (for the same signal) is that correct?
That is correct. If the amp gains are the same then the only conclusion is the smaller woofers have higher sensitivity.
Thank you for the in-depth review of these subs, after reviewing multiple sources I took the plunge today (while they are still on sale) and ordered two of the 12" versions through you affiliation link (its the least I could do for all the work you put in). To me it seemed that the 12" subs kept up with the 15" across the frequency sweep but just gave up 4-5 dB in total output, considering dual subs add 5-6 dB it seemed like the best price/performance option to get two of these instead of one 15". Looking forward to building my theater room over the winter... I have a pile of speakers waiting for their home and when these arrive the pile will be a mountain ;^) I'm using Sony SSCS5 for sides, rear and Atmos (I may change the ports to front firing)... any chance you may review these speakers in the future, they get a lot of fantastic reviews? For the front LCR I will be running my old school Cerwin Vega VS-120's, trying something different then everyone else... hope it all blends well. Thanks again for the review, I can't wait to hear, and more importantly, feel these Monoliths!
I would look at there Monolith THX - 365T Ultra Mini-towers, and the matching THX - 365C Ultra Centre speakers, for a great front sound stage, you obviously already have the subs you need.
I got the 10" THX for my rear sub to compliment the two SVS PB1000 Pro's in the front and I can definitely tell that 10 is back there. They are powerful. I did not get a 3rd PB1000 Pro because SVS raised the price by $300 (I paid $600 and they are now $900 so to me they are no longer worth it at that price)
You shouldn't mix subs.
@@billybobby7607 that's myth/lie told by manufacturer s, you can mix subs no problems. That nonsense is manufactures wanting to sell more of their stuff
@@wezzman1 you shouldn't mix ported and sealed subs
@@billybobby7607 yes, we can agree on this...
How does the monolith do with music
Pretty much all budget ported subs have the mid-bass hump, then fall off sharply. Their port tuning is MUCH higher than a non-budget sub. This is why budget subs tend to have a lot of unnatural output in that 50-70Hz range, then drop like a rock with no extension.
No kidding. I just came off his budget videos and man as soon as he threw the first curves up I said "damn, those are flat."
good review!
Thanks!
Would love if you could review/test some of the REL subs. But great content! Love the videos. I have two of the 10in and they’re beasts.
If I could get my hands on some I would be happy to test them.
@@ErinsAudioCorner the HT series might be more doable. Thanks again!
Maybe so. I’m hopeful as this channel grows (assuming it does) that I can connect with people somewhat local to me who are willing to loan me stuff to test because some manufacturers won’t loan me review samples. So, hopefully I’ll get the opportunity to test some REL subs in the future.
Cheers for the reply.
I wish I had seen your review before I purchased the sub direct from Monoprice. I would have purchased through your link. Great review with the best data I have seen in any review. Very informative. I bought 2 of the 10" model for my home theater. I can't wait to get them...
Nice. I am pairing one with a pair of the Monolith mm-5's on my pc setup. I wish they had a finish option like the mm-3's and 5's.
I know this is an old ass comment but how do u like them, if you still got them around?
Great video. Could you do one on subwoofer kits?
Thanks for those reviews, new subscriber here!
Could you review the 13inch model? I've read that it outperforms the bigger 15inch one.
It’s not planned but it’s possible.
Subscribed sorry it took so long lol. If you had a choice between monoprice 12 or svs pb2000 pro which would you pick? Thanks. Cya later today 4pm live.
I am really happy to follow your great reviews. For this family of THX ultra subwoofer, I am curious to know the amplifier's noise if you still have them in mind. Did you hear any soft noise, kind of hiss from a distance less than 1m.
Many thanks.
I didn’t hear any noise at all. Not even when I was sitting next to it for this review.
I looked at the spreadsheet and thought it was interesting the 12 and 15 were about equal at 20Hz in CEA-2010-A testing but the 15 pulled ahead pretty evenly at every frequency in CEA-2010-B.
Yep. That’s the nature of the two tests. The -B version is more forgiving of distortion at lower frequencies and less at higher frequencies. I personally think this makes more sense given how masking and frequency of distortion works. But since no one else provides -B, I also chose to test using the -A standard so people can compare (within reason) my results against others’.
Very good review. I clicked on the link for the 10 inch model, but they are out of stock.
That stinks. Hopefully they’ll get them back in stock soon for you.
Nice video! Now I want to buy a 10 inch for the apartment.
Can you make a video about setting up 1 or more of those subs in one's system (crossover, device compatibility, outputs/inputs/balanced, phase, how exactly to measure the perfect crossover, when exactly are we done, when do we do the "crawl technique", etc.)? I understand it will be much harder to set up than SVS subs, even more without AV receiver?
I mean... many say "do this until it sounds best", but for a guy who never owned a sub, that's not very informative.
Do remember port noise with movies did you have to adjust on it to help get rid of the noise? Monolith 10"
Variable phase AND Balanced input/thru - BINGO. At least one manufacturer extracted their heads from their colons.
It would be cool to see how the Monolith THX Ultra 12 stacks up against the fairly new SVS PB2000 Pro.
Coming very soon. Maybe even this weekend.
@@ErinsAudioCorner i would like to know this too.
@@georgexydous2891 here you go!
m.ruclips.net/video/VDF8uPs5aUQ/видео.html
@@ErinsAudioCorner thanks a lot.
What do you think about measuring speed? I’ve heard many different subs and just the freq response isn’t a full indicator of performance so i’m curious how one would meaure that
I have 2 Polk HTS-10 and 2 Polk HTS-12 subs. I'd love to see how they compare. In my opinion, the HTS-12 has a significant drop-off under 30Hz, but they sound amazing down to it and tamber match my speakers really well.
I might be wrong, but since I have all Polks (Reserves now, but I had Signature when I bought them), I think they match nicely, and it's hard to hear where I go from the speaker to the sub.
I'd like to see these reviewed because I'd like to know where they're good and where they're bad. Helps when upgrading because I need to upgrade to subs that solve a specific issue, and I don't know what issue I'm solving if that makes sense. Monolith subs sound great, but they're super heavy.
I have two SVS PC-2000 Pro subs and would also like to see how they compare to other subs in the same range; especially the PC-4000s (which are way outta that range, but in my upgrade path). From what I understand, these can go down to at least 16Hz in my room (not sure how loud), but since I can't hear very low, I'm making assumptions based on how much things shake.
My thinking is that the SVS cylinder subs produce more bass because they aim it directly at the floor. Since both my home theaters are on the first and second floor (not the basement), I get a ton of room-shake; enough to feel it in the couch and my memoryfoam mattress.
I have TONS of questions but no easy way to get answers. I like that your channel gives answers, but those answers are only useful when comparing to what I already own if that makes sense. Over time, it'll be better because people won't only be comparing Sub A and B from 2026, they'll be comparing those two options to their 2020 Sub X that you reviewed in the past using your same measurement tools. It's a great reference point.
My endgame speakers and subs are probably gonna be JTRs. Those are a $40K+ investment just for the speakers let alone the subs. I have no reference for how they'd play in my smaller 12x11' room with an open side wall into the kitchen. That means I don't know which size to buy or the kind of sound I'm gonna get. Should I go sealed or ported? What about if I move houses?
These are the kinds of questions I'd like to answer, so I can simply save up and wait rather than having to spend nights and nights doing research.
If 10'' Monolith have price 500$. Well done Monoprice! 👍 For price, bass woofer very good made! 👍 Have good magnet and cast basket.
wow the Monolith 12 is surprisingly close to the 15 at 20hz, makes me think about getting dual 12's instead of the single 15 I was planning to
I just pulled the trigger on dual 12's for $1300 plus tax on Ebay with the current sale. Amazing price and I think the 12 goes under the radar because people focus more on the flagship 15". The 12" is a beast in it's own right!
@@Slickman2006 I also ended up getting the dual 12's. I'm in the UK though so my shipping date is "when it gets here"
This is great content! Would love if you could test some Arendal subs.
Arendal?... isn't that where Anna and Elsa are from? LOL.
Kidding aside, I'll try to remember that brand. Thanks for the suggestion. :)
@@ErinsAudioCorner LOL, yes exactly! They are a Norwegian brand that is not super well known here in the States.
Haha. So glad you got the joke. Otherwise that might have been aw-kwaaaard.
Yep. I’ll check in to them and try to keep them in mind for a future review.
The pole piece doesn't need to be vented because the holes in the coupling of the cone and the voice coil are doing the same thing. I believe it's often decided based on of there is an expectation of an obstruction behind the magnet, like a shallow box or even just bracing.
You may very well be right on their decision for this. Still, I simply would have expected an additional vent near the bottom of the VC would help to provide additional cooling so that the bottom portion doesn't burn up first (something that is often seen in failed bass units per my previous research). It was more of an observation than a conclusion as I don't have the numbers for failed units and I've yet to see anyone mention that they've had such issues. Still, I do wonder if there would be an improvement in compression. Someone smarter than me would have to tell me that. And there's a lot of folks out there who fit that bill. ;)
I think it can work fine either way. The venting around the frame is doing most of the thermal work. This is more of a sound quality issue, and cost, from understanding. Either way can work.
@@ErinsAudioCorner You will more than likely find that the vent at the bottom of the speaker can and will cause more turbulence in the cabinet and this could then lead to more distortion through the cabinet ports due to the chopping of air inside the cabinet through this vent,
The front cooling vents will also aid in moving air through the cabinet with the speakers excursions (movement).
yo bro newark nj here i enjoyed your reviews today , whats your thoughts on the ...JBL LSR310S 10-inch Powered subs im eyeing one right now
Great review! 👍 question: for music both ports for 12in closed off or just one ? For movies both ports open and switch to extended on rear panel??
I think it really depends on what you're looking to listen to. Generally speaking, movies have more LF content below 30Hz than music. Most sealed woofers - at least decent ones - have no issues getting down to 30Hz. But below that is where ported really seems to help out.
My question is, how do you know when they are in phase alignment? What do you use to tell...REW?
The sealed enclosures should have less steeper role off compared to the ported it must be the built in dsp!
While all three of these subs provide excellent bass extension for a sound system, the lack of exposed heat sink fins to cool the amp output circuit concerns me regarding longevity.
Wow! I don't remember the last time I've seen a RUclips video and learned so much. Thank you for putting this together.
I'm actually me to home theaters systems and I'm looking in purchasing dual subs. I'm thinking about purchasing dual monoliths or dual PB1000 Pros. What are your thoughts on these dual options 12" for a room size 20' x 13'?
Glad it was helpful!
I think both are equal in terms of output capability and fidelity. It really comes down to needs. If you have equalization (via your AVR, pre/pro, or external like a miniDSP) then you could probably save money and go with the Monolith. If you don't, then I suggest the SVS and to use their app so you can EQ the response in your room for multiple seats. And as a cheap plug, if you don't mind, please consider using one of my affiliate links as it helps me keep doing what I'm doing. You can find them in the description portion of my videos.
Hope that helps. - Erin
@@ErinsAudioCorner thank you Erin! It looks like I'm leaning towards the PB1000's just because of the size of not being as big for the space. I'm not familiar with mini Dsp, I'm new to all this. And I most definitely will be using your links to purchase, with the information you are providing your audience, it's the least we can do. By the way, what is mini Dsp and how can I learn more about it?
Looks like that monoprice budget 12 cleans house when compared to the 10 inch budget round up.
Hey man, I'm looking at the sw15 model. Wondering what's your thoughts on its low end response compared to the monolith 10. 🤙
I am looking to upgrade my current subs (2). I have one spl-120 and the r-12sw. The r-12sw is pretty punchy but doesn't go very low and the spl- does just the opposite. Would you recommend either the 10 or 12 Monolith as a replacement? I only want to run one sub. Thanks
Just a note: even if you have the sub right next to the speaker, it won’t be time/phase aligned, the internal DSP in these will add some delay. This is why whenever you do an auto-EQ with an AVR, it always sets it a good 1-4ft off from the physical distance.
As for phase vs time: yes they are different, but in practice does it really matter? We are less sensitive to timing differences in the bass, so you should be able to give up a few ms of timing accuracy in order to achieve phase-matching without consequence.
Phase adjustment on a subwoofer is not adjusting phase, it is adjusting delay. PSA subs even label it Delay with the ms offsets instead of the phase angles, because that’s technically more accurate. Rythmik’s website also states that phase adjustment and delay via an AVR is the same.
I don’t disagree. It is more implementation and proper labeling on a product. IME, variable phase is a second-order APF. Which is different than time delay where time delay is independent of frequency and APF is not.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Agreed.
So, the knobs don’t actually adjust phase, it’s simply a delay:
www.rythmikaudio.com/phase.html
www.rythmikaudio.com/phase3.html
“So it is important to note "adding delay time in time domain" = "adding negative phase angle" = "subtracting physical distance in AVR".”
A true phase adjustment will indeed happen with a filter, so when you set your AVR/integrated to cross the speakers/sub. Thus, if you didn’t crossover, then, to my knowledge, a different delay adjustment would be needed.
@@homeboi808 I took MP at their "word" that this is indeed an actual phase-adjustment (akin to the 0/180° polarity "phase" adjustment). I will reach out to them and see if I can get verification it is what it is labeled as and not just time delay. If I have the opportunity on a future subwoofer test which has this variable phase, I'll test the actual amplifier output to the subwoofer to see if it's actual phase or time delay. IMHO, they should be measured specifically because they are indeed two completely separate things. And, the difference is not insignificant because one can easily be in phase but be out of time if the cycle is a full 360° rotation. Plus it takes a lot of time to make up for a decent phase adjustment at these wavelengths. I have a lot of experience with this feature from the car audio world but also from using pro-audio DSPs (Rane, for one) and I can say without a doubt one can easily tell the difference when the delay is significant enough to be back in-phase (or, conversely, out of time but in phase) with an A/B/X test.
On another note, it's funny you linked Rythmik's literature. I actually tested one of their subwoofers years back and noted the variable phase, but at the time, didn't consider the implication of it being true time delay rather than an all-pass filter (phase). www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/rythmik-f12g-direct-servo-subwoofer/
At any rate, cheers for the reply. Good stuff.
@@ErinsAudioCorner
Yeah, I think PSA is the only one that properly labels the adjustment as a delay (even though Rythmik acknowledges).
I did see that review but forgot about it. You note its ~18mm one-way excursion as impressive, which is funny as on your Reddit thread for these subs I got into a conversation with another user about a REL 1508 and how it boasts 150mm 2-way on its site.
rel.net/shop/powered-subwoofers/serie-ht/ht-1508-predator
That obviously is insane, so if by some good fortune you are able to get your hands on one, I’d love to see if that’s even remotely true.
To be clear, the 18mm is one-way. I don't know if that's linear or mechanical as they don't distinguish that. On the REL, I see that's peak-to-peak but I can't imagine it is linear excursion per IEC 60268; probably just mechanical.
Can you review the OSD 12 in sub and make a video
I purchased the 12" and set it up only to find there was little or no output. Spent almost an hour with a Monoprice tech guy on the phone. Conclusion was that the amp was bad. They will pick up and credit. Disappointed I got a defective unit, but the service and return policy is fantastic. I'm inclined to still go with Monoprice (they do have a 5 year warranty), but here's my conundrum. The 12" is huge! I'm replacing a 20-25 year old 12" Velodyne (amp gave up the ghost) that was ok sounding. I would rather have the 10" for its smaller size. Room is 20x20. Listen to music and watch surround movies, but neither are ever cranked volume wise. Would I be disappointed with the 10" or should I stick with the 12"? :)
Did you get port noise with movies did you have to adjust on it to help get rid of the noise? Monolith 10"membe
18:22 and there it is. Trouser flapping bass
Great review! Would you ever pair a monolith with one of monoprice's cheaper subs? Why or why not?
Well, ideally two of the same subwoofers would be best but you don't HAVE to pair subwoofers identically. The cheaper one, being limited in extension and overall output, would likely be best placed closer to the listening position and at a location where it helps smooth the overall response. You'll have to play around with positioning and I would recommend using software like REW and a USB microphone to help determine what works best as far as placement goes.
Is it bad to mix sub brands? I was thinking of getting a monolith 12 for the rumbling lows and a REL 1508 for musicality and super clear bass tones.
I have an HSU VTF-3 mk3. Is Monolith THX 10 "better for home theater and listening to music? Does anyone know how they sound in comparison?
how did it sound with music mostly? was it tight and punchy?
i looked at the M15 when searching for my sub but in the end i went with pb16 ultra. way better sub with SVS
Way more expensive too. If you want most bang for buck you go DIY
Hello buddy, what size will u recommend for 156 sq. Ft bedroom area.
Regards
Heads up everyone, the Monolith 12 is on sale for $699 today.
Now if you could recommend good surround speakers to pair with it, I'd be grateful!
I like your YT on subwoofers the most, mainly because of the quantitatively measured content. I hear others talking about SQ and SPL without profound information. That is not really serious in my opinion.
There is something missing in most of the videos and I think also in yours: "tonality", the ability to hit the right tones. I am not sure why that is a problem for speakers, but some may be better or worse.
So, would you say that the Monolith could be something like a "audiophile", "musical" or SQ speaker? Can it run on it's own without dominating? Playing loud seems to be no problem looking at the data...
Very nice review. Out of curiosity how would you say the monolith 10 compares. With the likes of a HSU Research VTF2-MK5? Just trying to determine if the HSU is worth the extra $116 (shipping factored in).
I'm not sure, to be honest. I don't have any personal experience with HSU subwoofers.
Maybe in the future you could review a REL sub!
I'm game. We shall see.
Great video yet again. Can you tell us why audiophiles like sealed subs more than ported and do you think spending all that cash to get a REL sub is worth it or it's good enough to go with an svs or monolith. Txx
I think there may be a couple reasons. One is maybe ported just has a bad reputation from years of old when the ported designs were sub-optimal (ha! pun not intended). Years and years of junk designs could cause people to think that is inherent of all ported enclosures. But it's not. Second may be the increase in group delay. There are some who believe group delay over a particular value (it varies, depending on who you ask) is audible. Personally, I am more concerned with group delay at the crossover region because you can't un-do time issues caused in the "mechanical" sense (subwoofer + enclosure design); those issues will always be there. If the GD is high (maybe greater than a few milliseconds, depending on the frequency) then it makes phase alignment and time alignment at the crossover point between the subwoofer and the mains much harder and practically impossible to be 100% correct. Ported enclosures also, by nature, have lower frequency extension which are more prone to annoying rattles or igniting modal issues that a sealed woofer might not highlight because the SPL of a sealed woofer just isn't the same as the ported at a particular frequency. My $0.02, though.
@@ErinsAudioCorner Thanks bro. Very informative...
@@ErinsAudioCorner
Erin, I think that a video dedicated to the topic of *Group Delay* would be very well-received and extremely popular because IME it's very misunderstood, somewhat like the "Damping Factor" of an amplifier.
Great videos, Amigo! Keep it up!
I think your channel will start to grow exponentially really soon and will begin to reach a much larger audience than just posting on the various car & home audio forums. 👍
Just what I was looking for. How come the 12 had less spl, output compared to the 10?
FYI potential buyers: I have to run sub signal cable with splitter to both sub RCA ins, because sub output on my AVR (Denon AVR-X3300W) is quite low for these subs and still I am at +3 dB on the back plate. All previous subs I had (Canton, Audiovector) have no issues like that.
I wouldn’t consider it an issue. That’s exactly why there is a gain knob.
@@kilgoretrout5456 Yeah, sorry didn't mentioned why is it an issue. Every step above 0dB brings up a little of a noise. +6dB has quite substantial noise already noticeable on listening position 3 meters away (in quiet room).
I have the new monolith thx 13 and have to do the same thing, run an rca y- splitter to both stereo inputs. I tested this out with a proper decible meter and the y splitter gained me 6db increase across the whole range.
I tested the same few scenes in movies over and over, the rca splitter helps improve the low power output.
These monolith amps need a stronger singnal than what most avr's out put. No issues with my avr powering pro audio amps or svs subs so the issue lies with monoprice.
Can you do a review on the Earthquake mini me 12 dsp please.
I don't think that will happen, TBH. Lots of other items I need/want to test.
Can the monolith thx 10 be an add to an sennheiser ambeo soundbar please know thanks