How To Use Mathews' Top Hats
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- In this video I demistify the top hat system used to tune Mathews bows/
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@Inside_Out_Precision
Paying $1100 for a bow these top hat sets should be included
The shop you buy it from should have all the different and have YOU shoot the bow when you buy it. Then change out top hats until its shooting a bullet hole. Crazy how lazy some shops are.
Most pro shops freak out when you mention top hats.I always got
“They come from Mathews tuned perfect if you set up center shot. You’re torquing your shot!”
@@InsideOutPrecision yea I bought my own stuff to do my own work. If ya think about tho it's no different than trying to find a tradesman to do work as well.
Agreed
Great video as always, really enjoy your technical info you post. All of this is correct EXCEPT for around the 5:00 mark when you say replace just one top hat. You can't just switch one out, the total spacing with the combined two top hats must equal 0.175" and the ring location lets you know which ones are PAIRED together. A single ring and a double ring AND the location of the ring(s) must be paired so the limb tip spacing stays equal. There are three pairs in an entire factory top hat kit.
# of rings/location = "A" width
2/top = .100
1/top = .075
2/bottom = .140
1/bottom = .035
2/middle = .120
1/middle = .055
Thanks again for all your hard work and detailed videos!!
I was going to ask the same ? I have always used mine in the 3 pairs because I was told that spacing had to stay the same.
I was wondering the same thing. Hopefully he replies to clarify.
+ 1 Don't see how you can use different top hat than the one paired....should be a mistake. Anyway, considering so many nice and very helpful videos you provide, once a mistake is not a big deal...
I thought so even knowing about .175
I was thinking that also I think what he meant was flip them. Like switch sides at first
One thing that is incorrect. The top hats have to equal .175, so one can be .055 and the other be .120. You CANNOT have one that is .100 and the other .055. It will damage the bow potentially and void your warranty
They mentioned that on the Lancaster video. I was surprised that Kallum include that important detail.
I had the exact same tear issue as you stated right out the gate. Went to my pro shop and they spent a couple hours wanting to tune my form to the bow - they were more or less refusing to mess with top hats. It eventually got to the point where I more or less told them to start swapping top hats and if it doesn't change anything, then I would agree with them and say it's my form and leave.... They switched the top cam top hats - handed it to me. Boom, 3 bullet holes in a row through paper. It was rather annoying of their reluctance, but I was trying to be polite out of respect. Could have saved everyone involved a couple of hours if they would have pressed it and got right after it.
I work at a pro shop in MI an we use the top hats to tune every Mathews bow in our shop that someone is buying. Thanks for the awesome video.
I'm from Michigan what shop do you work at?
I'd love to know which shop you're at also.
Same. I’ve had bad luck with a few pro shops in MI.
Just getting back into to bow hunting after 20yrs away. Bought a 31.5” VXR 2 weeks ago and watched the guy setting up my bow do exactly why you said, jacking the rest way out to left and never touched the top hats.
I really appreciate your content.
Thank you.
This fixed my triaxx perfectly, only done my bottom cam , bare shaft bullet holes now , thanks
As usual your video timing is impeccable. I have a top hat kit coming from Lancaster today. My VXR shot bullet holes straight out of the box with the center shot at 13/16 and my arrow dead center through the berger hole. After a few months of shooting I have developed a tail right tear that I wasn’t able to correct by swapping the factory top hat configuration. If you’re like me and you do all of your own tuning at home do not let this system intimidate you it’s super easy to do. I had to swap top hats on my Vertix as well and it’s a breeze. As Kellen said once you do it a few times you can swap them in just a few minutes. It’s a very simple, solid and well thought out tuning system.
This system is why I bought a trx 38!! Absolutely Genius design!!
Ya couldn't post this video like 3 weeks ago when I was doubting my grip form, my arrow rest and my arrow build? Lol. I had all these troubles. Great video!
Amazing thing is you pay a lot of money to a shop and they give you a good enough bow. I will ask you to build my next bow, happy hunting.
The setup as it leaves the factory may not be what you purchase though. They'll send the bows from factory in more common draw length and let off but each person is going to want something different which will require everything to be tweaked to ensure perfect shot.
Mathews, hoyt, pse etc can't make the bow perfect for every shooter, they can however make an amazing platform to tailor to each shooter.
Once again, your video are making a unique contribution to archery. Thank you from a 'shade tree mechanic'. This is the only explanation I've found that describes HOW to use the Top Hats to tune. The rest just say that tuning can be done, but not the actual process of doing it.
I ended up buying a Matthews V3X for these very reasons. Coming from opening for years a Prime bow I really liked the new shim system for the Inline system. One problem was primer told me at this time the tool is only for dealers. So considering I loved the Matthews V3X design features with the top hats and the SAS system. I love my V3X 29. Great video.
Great video. Don't start swapping around the top hats unless your shooting form is perfect. Many left or right paper tears are just improper grip, release / string face pressure, or bad release. I had all three of these things going on a one point and couldn't get a bullet hole. Fixed all these issues without making any changes to the bow (which was already in center shot w/ arrow square through burger hole) and wouldn't ya know, perfect bullet hole.
Absolutely correct. If you really whiny to practice your form, shoot bareshaft into paper. The flaws shine throughout
Awesome info !!! It’s so hard to find a trustworthy archery shop in my area, so I have to do all of my own work if I want it right. Thank you sir!!!! It’s a lot of help.
Great video as always. I have owned a Halon 32, Vertix, and now a VXR 31.5. All have bare shaft tuned with a small, small, rest adjustment. So far I have not had to move top hats. They do look fairly simple though.
Just read the posts below. They confirmed what I was told about the pairs. Still a great video.
Great video, I bought the entire top hat system from my bow shop . He said he was getting perfect bullet holes but when I shot it at home I had a tail left tear and when I shot my broadheads they were planing right. He said it would be $65 to swap again:..
Thanks for your videos, I really enjoy watching you explain things. I've learned alot watching you..hopefully I will come to the bowrack so I can meet you guys ..
Great video. I’ve been struggling to figure out why I was always hitting slightly left. I figured it was poor grip. Swapped the thicker top hat with the thinner top hat on the left to the right side of the cam and I’m hitting center and tear is clean. Thanks for the video
That’s because most every supposed Pro bow shop, isn’t a Pro Shop At all. 2 guys in my area bought a PSE the other Hoyt Carbon Vector I believe. Paid $75 for laser tuning and tuned to them. Ha! Tuned to them and they weren’t even there.
I compete in most NFAA & WAF event I can afford to go to. So I do all of my own work except I don’t make string. I have all the tools and mechanical machines to do anything on my own. I’m saying all this because the 2 guys know about me when I first moved into their area. They brought there bows in at different occasions. The Hoyt was way off. Timing, cam lean, 1/2” too long of DL. After 4 hours while he was there with paper tuning, bareshaft tuning and walk back tuning, he was ecstatic. Same with PSE guy.
I originally came from northern Illinois bordering southern Wisconsin where competition is heavy. With all the bow shops that there were, only 2 where ProShops for real.
Show the bow, sell the bow, slap the bow together and out the door. I can fully understand that because you need to make many sales fast and quick. Most all don’t have time to do what they charged to do or supposed to do.
I’m excluding this RUclipsr. He seems like he knows what to do all of the time.
I'm still enjoying my PSE Evo.😁👍
This was very informative Kellen. TY. I actually work at a archery shop part time & we have never had any training on the top hats.
Thx for your Support 👍🏻
I am sure my shop never did that. My zebras stretched. I have a press. I took some turns on the cables. It’s a 60# mod. It’s 62# now. Should I add some twists to the string? I have the top hat kit. I’ll have to check this out through paper. After I’m confident
Nah it’s fine at 62. Just make sure the cam timing is still good
These are really nice bows. I own a BOWTECH Realm SR6 and i bought the VXR 28. I was kinda disappointed w/ Mathews for making a bow and then you have to buy the top hats separately. Anyways, would really like if possible if you could explain the top hat marking system. I was under the impression you could not mix and match the top hats, in meaning: 1. The top hats had to be used together as a set. Would like another video explaining this. But as always, great video. Thanks
Perfect timing on this vid. Was just at my local pro shop with my HTR on Saturday. Cut some new shafts and wanted to paper tune it. Bows in time,proper shaft spine etc down the line. Constant left tear no matter what tophat configuration we tried. Only way we cleaned it up was to move the rest towards the riser out of centershot. Perfect bullethole but i know its not correct and wont be happy till we fix it correctly. My pro who is actually a pro tour shooter ( youde know him) lol said my grip, form, face pressure was all fine. He even shot it with the same results. Any suggestions from you or anyone else would be great. FYI i did read an article about early models suffering from the same issue and it turned out to be a limb issue,one or more was out of factory deflection specs and caused uneven torque. Id get new limbs if i knew that was the answer but at this point its just a guess based on research. 🤷♂️
great video. can you also do a video on how hand torque can effect paper tune?
I am tuning my new VXR 28". I have to say that I couldn't reason why I would move the cam towards the tear, but I did it how you said and I moved a 1
tear to punching perfect holes with rest set at 13/16. You said ,"Just take my word for it" and it worked, Thanks.
always enjoy your vid's i learn a lot cheers from perth aussie
I didn’t know however that you can mix the TH around. I’ve been using TH for 3 years now. But maybe I didn’t need to. If I do I’ll give it a try. Thanks.
Perfect timing on this video for me. #Leftylivesmatter
Going off subject, I have a traverse, will never hunt, but like to target and 3D shoot. Would you recommend putting a scope on a traverse. Thanks love your videos.
Thanks buddy I swapped mine round today and haven’t had time to shot it yet. When I mentioned top hats in my shop they thought it was field Points I wanted 🫣 they don’t really deal with compounds which is annoying but got to support your local shop where possible they let me use the equipment which is awesome so 👍 that’s what u get for living in the Uk 😢
Well explained, with such a price range the tuning should already be arranged by the manufacturer!
Its impossible to tune a bow for someone when you don't know their draw length, draw weight, arrow length, spine, release aid, etc ...
However, the manufacturer can estimate if the bowstring is about 13/16 behind the arrow rest.@@InsideOutPrecision
@@axelstucky7214 well, the rest is what you set into center shot, not necessarily the string.
@@InsideOutPrecision ok, that's what i mean when i use other top hads i adjust the bowstring to the arrow rest.why can't the manufacturer determine that right away.
You are awesome!! Many thanks for sharing.
Top hats are matched pairs. The two tops hats are supposed to equal a specific thickness(.175" total). By doing what you suggested to correct that small left tear and replacing a top hat that's narrower/thicker than the one that's supposed to be in there you're mismatching top hats. That will result in either squeezing the limbs together more than they're supposed to be, or widening them. Whether or not that causes problems I can't say 100%. I can say I've torn down 3 bows now that wouldn't tune for crap, and in every case there were mismatched top hats.
Yeah you want to keep them matched if possible. But widening or shortening the limbs by 1/64" doesn't seem to hurt anything in my experience
this video ever come out on the tuning or top hat stuff?
Very well explained!
Looking forward to the new video you talked about making on the top hats mentioned above. Also do you use a dab of loctite on the axle screw you loosened or just use what is left on the threads? Thanks.
For those who's mathews dealer says "you don't mess with the top hats". Go to a different shop.
Exactly
@Rusty Shackleford A crap shop with lazy people behind the counter!
Great explained bud 👍
Thank you for making the vids you make!
Great video Kellen.
Wish I could bring my bow to you guys!
Very important. Be sure not to over tighten the axle screws. My cam bearing failed and Mathews would not cover under warranty. They said the only way the cam bearing could fail is axle screws were over tightened. They say “snug”. But problem is your snug and my snug might/is most likely different. It is an easy way to tune but be careful.
Just a quick question. If I tear tail left, and move my cam left with a smaller top hat, should I not have a larger on the right? Just curious because of what you mentioned later in the video about changing just one. Shouldn't one consider the play created by a smaller top hat one one side? Or is that negligible? Love your videos. Very informative. Much appreciated!
Im getting bad left tears with bare shafts. Will a bowmaster bow press with the large L brackets work to change top hats for the VXR 28? Or is the a bow press that will work without buying a last chance?
thanks for the video.. I have been shooting Hoyt with center rest and recently i bought mathews trx 36 on ebay and there is no room for using center rest.. its too short any solution....
Old video apparently, but I'll ask a question. Would it be correct to assume that, if my cable is resting in the valley of the cam's groove, the top hats would be correctly positioned? My Mathews Z7 shows my string centered in the lower cam, but tends to the left edge on my upper cam. Should the string rest "centered" in the valley of the groove of both cams?
This video doesn’t apply to Mathews bows older than 2015, that’s when the Top Hat system came to market.that being said, no, the position of the string in the cam groove is not a good indicator for anything.
My trx 36 bow the has a cam lean.. any suggestion.
Five minutes if you replace the top hat and you do not have its mate as you're describing in the video warranty any damage, ask me how I found out
THANK YOU
I have a RH Halon 32. While trying to keep my centershot at 13/16 my sight is almost adjusted all the way to the left. Should I try larger top hats on the left and smaller on the right?
Is there anyway I can contact you with some pictures. I think this is my issue I dont have many pro shops to help get me set up but I can better explain my situation but my rest is clear to the left far as it'll go and im still getting a 1-3" right tear. Shooting 250 spine with 100gr insert and 100gr tip right now.
Problem. I followed these steps until I started shooting a bullet hole. My timing is good. My axle to axle and brace height is good. My arrow is the correct spine for the poundage I am shooting. BUT when I go to sight in my bow, I have my sight MAXED out to the left and it is still 4 inches left of the point I am aiming at. And I am only 20 yards away. What would you do?
Sounds like your rest is outside of center if you’re running out of sight adjustment. What kind of sight are your shooting?
How about the bottom Cam? On my Vertix the Bottom Cam is touching the Cables when I draw back, the spacer are diferente from the top and bottom...
Thanks man.... awesome video...
@Rusty Shackleford Absolutely, the bow was shooting bolete holes.
Schells has the bow now, waiting to see what happens, they told me that Mathews engineers are working on the bow.
YASS KING!!! great video.
Thank you for this video. Just got the top hat kit. I didn’t realize you could just adjust one top hat. Thought you needed to stay with the pars.
Great vlog as usual but it has me asking if your traverse draw length ran long? I'm so ready to buy one but my draw length is 26.5" which is the shortest mods offered and if they run long I'm screwed.. Also, my STX 39, you mentioned you own one, is in need of new strings but I can't decide who to order from, any suggestions? I only ask since these cables are unique with a lot of serving requirements so a good skillful string builder is required... Stay safe out there..
Lance I am the same DL and you at 26.5" and I purchased a new Traverse a couple months ago. In my opinion I don't feel that mine runs long, it might be touch, but not noticeable. What I was concerned with since 26.5" is the shortest mods for the Traverse was gonna be the lack of valley. That is not the case. I own the VXR 28 and 31.5 along with this Traverse. They are all three great bows but I REALLY like the draw cycle on the Traverse. It holds like a ROCK and is just as quiet and dead as the VXR's.
Luckily my current Mathews shoots right over the center of the shelf. Wish I had known about the top hats with the one I got rid of this last Summer.
Well whats worse is that the shop you bought it from didn't tune it with the top hats when you purchased it!. Crazy how lazy most shops are
@@InsideOutPrecision Even asked if there was some way to use spacers to move the cams over (had no idea until this video that such a thing existed, it just seemed a logical solution) and I was told 'no, and it would be a bad idea.'
Am I seeing a jmu dukes shirt?
Good video with great info, man.
Haha good eye...yeah I went to school there
@@InsideOutPrecision nice! Hburg is only 30 minutes from me.
Got the top hats, but shooting tail high also. Running the Hamskea, so your saying move my nock position up or down and not the rest?
Well for a tail high tear first check your cam timing. And make sure the top cam isn't open. If the timing is good then either move your rest up or your d loop down.
And what if I'm as far left as the top hats allowed, adjusted all the way right on the rest and still knock left
Most likely you’re torquing the grip really hard
Just got a VXR and about to paper tune. If I need to adjust to get a bullet hole and can do it with adjusting the rest should I or should I start with the top hats?
Always the top hats!
I own a PSE and get a small nock right bear shaft. This year I picked up the v3 and am getting a large nock left bear shaft. same arrow and draw wait. Took to a bow shop and they said both are tuned fine. They said it was probably my grip. I could see this if I were getting the same tear on both bows. Frustrated I bought a pressure and top hats to start playing with my Mathews. I shoot a low wrist and do impart a little torque. When I use a very high wrist i the tears are not as bad. Question: is it ok to turn a bow to my natural grip, Or do I need to work on developing an uncomfortable high wrist grip.
As long as your grip is consistent you should just tune it so it shoots a bullet hole where your comfortable. Use the top hats.
@insideoutprecision is there a specific torque spec on the axis screws? I don’t want to over or under tighten.
No there isn't. You just want to snug them up though, don't really crank on them
Can’t do just one side unfortunately!
Yep
Taking mine in for that, noticed the little yoke on the top cable is twisting and really close to the cam on the left side as the right side looks like it going to come off inside by the cam and the bottom side is doing the same but not as bad... thanks for the info
Thats normal for the yokes to look like that. But getting it tuned using the tops hats is the right move.
I am trying to use the top hats to help get better fletching/vane clearance from the the cables . I am using blazer vanes and NOC ON hunters vanes on my arrows . If I center shoot is correct than I don't have full clearance of my vlans and then I have to adjust my arrow where the 2 vanes are facing the cables and the other vane is facing out. I would like to have full clearance no matter what way I NOC on this would be ideal. So I used the top hats to shift the came system to the outside of the bow and then move my rest to line up correctly. I need to paper tune the bow and see if I am getting arrow flight issues high,low,right, and left tear . Now After making these changes I see the arrow now entering the target not straight( tailing to the left ) so I can assume I have a left tear. But my question can I correct the flight issue with adjustments to my rest or will I never get a perfect bullet hole. I have been trying to find the answer for some time with the question of vanes clearance and tuned bows. On any bow I have tune to get a bullet hole I need to make sure the fletching /vanes NOC on correct with 2 vanes facing the cables and the other vanes facing the out side . thank for the help I have a Mathew Vertix LH .
If your getting contact with blazer vanes then you are not center shot.
Center shot is 13/16" from the riser. I have set up hundreds of Vertix's and never had an issue with vane clearance
Thanks I check center shot again
Dumb question...is the Top Hat system a high wear item ? I mean, I don't see how these bows go out of tune besides string/cable stretch.
No thwy don't wear at all
Do they set the cams the same on every bow that leaves the factory?
No they're usually a little different configuration
@@InsideOutPrecision is their any reason for them not making them all the same or is it just a matter of getting the numbers out so close enough is good enough.
Not first!
$1200 bow should come free with the top hat kit
It's a shame Mathews doesn't do this before it ships. Shouldn't have to take apart a new Bow to tune it. This comes from a long time Mathews fan.
You can't tune a bow for someone when you don't know their draw length , draw weight, arrow spine, arrow length, or style of release they're going to shoot!
Top Hat system would work better if several sizes came with the bow instead of having to rely on pro shops.
You can buy them in a complete set but as usual Mathews wants a kings ransom for them..
That’s a Mathews and dealer deal. Get folks to the shops. Buy a press and learn how to use it. One advantage is you can get to work right away on you own bow.
What camo pattern is that bow?
Under Armour Ridge Reaper
They don't make it anymore though
Where are you located?
Springfield OR 👍
I'm confused if tail left tear I would think moving the string harness towards the riser for a right handed shooter would put the string more behind the nock during the power stroke
Trust me, push the cam towards the tear.
@@InsideOutPrecision it's not much off maybe a 1/8 tail left on the Vertix set between 13/16ths and 3/4 both top hats look thin on the top cam compared to the bottom I will have to look at it but performance is good out to 70uds maybe 2" right impacts at 70
I thought whatever you do with one cam you do with the other so the string runs true
Seems like you would, but the whole point is to change the position of the string.
@@InsideOutPrecision other manufacturers specifically say to do top and bottom the same. Weird that mathews are different
I believe Mathews is to do the same. Now, with like a BowTech in cam lean, that would be the case in tilting twin cams differently.
After watching this video do not make the top hats with the line and the location of the line you could crush cam bearing
a bow costing well over $ 1000 , you would think they would be perfect right ?
They don’t know what draw length, draw weight, arrow or release you’ll be shooting. All those things play into how the bow tunes
@@InsideOutPrecision WOW bro , i didnt know there were so many factors to consider , i been shooting over 50 yrs ,i just shoot , not a tech or nothing ,thats why i value people and videos like yours , thank you brother for info !
ISNT THERE A GIVEN AMOUNT OF SPACE THAT NEEDS TO CUMULATIVELY BE MAINTAINED TO KEEP THE LIMBS PROPERLY ALIGNED.....IE, AMOUNT TAKEN FROM ONE SIDE NEEDS TO BE ADDED TO OTHER SIDE
Yes, top hats are matched pairs. Total thickness of both top hats should equal .175"
Good video e explanation. But i say this is the worst method to tune a bow, Mathews has created a money maker: extra buck for top hats and modules. Extra time to tune a bow.
Other companies makes all tuning easier than Mathews.
These bows tend to have cam bearing failures. I wonder if it’d due to this new technology...🤔
What. Is the difference between the hats and your rest the rest is moor simple just talking done both ways like your information
And enjoyed your channel
Another example of over-engineering by Mathews. Proprietary top hats and torque specific axle bolts create other issues. Standard shims and C-clips work well already.
F some top hats , just buy a mission...
Uhh Mathews makes Mission but. Top hats are easier to tune with than dual split yokes.
Imagine, if you will, that a major car manufacturer sells hundreds of thousands of vehicles, that will only drive straight down the road, after you have changed out and messed with parts the car manufacturer sells. This is an engineering design and contempt of customer disgrace.
Well a bow manufacturer has no idea the draw weight, draw length, arrow length, release style, point weight, etc. that any given customer will be shooting. All of the above will affect the way that arrow comes out of the bow. Not having and easy way to change it would be the disgrace, not thenother way around.
@@InsideOutPrecision As a dual qualified Engineer versed in finite element analysis of stress vectors and controlling of same, in static and mechanical apparatus, I must respectfully point out you are missing the point, and are thereby incorrect. The mathematical modelling of any bow, of any draw length, draw weight etc could be accurately executed, to create a base design that is torque and cam lean free, while providing all appropriate speed and customisation to a particular archer's physique . This would of course make it difficult for bow manufacturers to keep on releasing so called inovations and after primary sale add-ons. Please otherwise note that I meant no critisism of you or your very professional and informative channel.... just figured we all like to live and learn a little.
Just buy a Bowtech. No press, no washers needed!
And have the limbs blow up!
@@InsideOutPrecision I am not being a troll. I am a big fan of the channel. Could you please reference me any article about limbs blowing up. I recently purchased a new Bowtech bow and would like the info in case I have any issues in the future. Thanks for your great videos.
@@michaeld.9323 if its a new model its probably fine. Up until a couple years ago they had their limbs built by another company and would stress them past the maximum deflection that the manufacturer recommended in order to squeeze a little more speed out of them. 2 years ago when they went under new ownership they began to make limbs in-house and havent seen many issues since. But I've personally witnessed at least a dozen Destroyer 350/ RPM 360 blow up at full draw.
@@InsideOutPrecision Thanks again. I am relieved that I have a new one.
Other brands ink matthews have limbs blown up to. More bad handling then poor quality😎