If I may ask how would I know if my brake booster is the one that went bad? I noticed that on my 78 Camino my brakes go from very firm to soft as hell out of nowhere and my brake light will come on. My brake fluid also goes down but I have no leaks in my lines.
Do you know why they needed to put the push washer if the whole thing is held by a nut anyway it seems redundant to have two fasteners also do you need to put a new push washer back or is there something I'm not getting🤔. thank's for the video
The washers were for the wiring clip and insulation. You don't want them in between the nut that secures the booster to the firewall. The engineers who designed the vehicle made it this way.
I rebuild what comes off the car instead of taking a chance in what someone decides to put in it. The kit for an 11" dual diaphragm booster runs about $18. Use a pair of side cutters to remove the safety nut (DOT) stupid requirement, instead of flat blade screwdriver, place inside duck-bill pliers to remove the eyelet shaft. Once off, put a witness mark on the bottom between the two shells. Place in press with 2 blocks of wood, ears opened with duck-bill pliers, open the two halves while taking note of parts which are few. Clueless for most a they have seen picture in a book. These are easier to rebuild than teaching a 8 year old to tie their shoes. Their is on or two rubber diaphragms with a plastic plug in the front and simple atmospheric valve on back. Vacuum enters the front and places negative pressure on the front half of each diaphragm. Inspect the rubber for cracking or holes, buy and replace what you need. Before putting together, use a clean lint-free paper towel to clean inner housing and parts. Silicone grease is the proper lubricant to rehydrate the rubber and lube plastic parts. Easy. Silicone grease is recommending to add to the door rubbers to extend their life and to keep them from sticking in the winter! The parts slid into place, put the large spring a compress the housings together. Use a blunt punch (Steel or Brass) to capture the it into an assembly. Easy. Put everything back to gather. Install vacuum tube into grommet, bolt booster to bulk head, install push-rod washer and hair-pin-cotter to safely hold in place. Install push rod (Solid or adjustable) Master cylinders used to come with the proper bench bleeding kit in the box. My zip lock bags has 24 plastic screw in fittings. It can be done with metal fittings and "No-Cop" pipe with a double or inverted flare. As long as 8-10" is left to bend and place into the bottom of your tandem master. Clamp one ear into a vise and fill with DOT3 or DOT4, but not DOT5. With the master set up to recirculate brake fluid in to correct revisor, push the piston in with a #3 Phillips screwdriver or round nose punch, bleed slowly until all air bubbles stop. This is bench bleeding. Bolt it into the booster leaving the lines hooked up. Tighten bolts evenly until snug. Torque comes at the end. (IMPORTANT) have a helper push the brake pedal down slowly. Watching inside the master as tiny air bubbles come out the holes closest to the booster. This is filling while the second hole you can see it pressure. (Bleeding) Each vehicle can be different with some using an "X" pattern and with ABS is different yet. But if bleeding brakes on a 1990 or older, start with the one furthest away like the right rear. Then left rear, right front, left front last. (NOTE) if push rod between booster and master is too long, the tandem cylinders cannot fill. If too short, the pedal will go down far until hard. If squishy, you have air in the lines. Suspect the right rear first. DK, ASE master tech since 78
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Best videos ever!
I check most of your videos before working on my 80's Caprice !
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I'm glad it helps out.
Great presentation. I will be upgrading a manual Brake system to a Booster system on my project and this was handy.
Thank you. Good luck with the upgrade.
awesome video
Thank you
If I may ask how would I know if my brake booster is the one that went bad? I noticed that on my 78 Camino my brakes go from very firm to soft as hell out of nowhere and my brake light will come on. My brake fluid also goes down but I have no leaks in my lines.
Gotta be a leak somewhere. If you have rear drums, pull the drums and check the Wheel Cylinders for leaking past the seals.
Don't for get about the fuse box! That right in front of those bolts not as easy.
Well done. Got the booster yesterday. Mine is leaking
Thank you sir!
Do you know why they needed to put the push washer if the whole thing is held by a nut anyway it seems redundant to have two fasteners also do you need to put a new push washer back or is there something I'm not getting🤔. thank's for the video
The washers were for the wiring clip and insulation. You don't want them in between the nut that secures the booster to the firewall. The engineers who designed the vehicle made it this way.
@@hutchhiperf so the booster nut is behind the washer and bracket?
@@richardracicot1982 Yes
I rebuild what comes off the car instead of taking a chance in what someone decides to put in it. The kit for an 11" dual diaphragm booster runs about $18. Use a pair of side cutters to remove the safety nut (DOT) stupid requirement, instead of flat blade screwdriver, place inside duck-bill pliers to remove the eyelet shaft. Once off, put a witness mark on the bottom between the two shells. Place in press with 2 blocks of wood, ears opened with duck-bill pliers, open the two halves while taking note of parts which are few. Clueless for most a they have seen picture in a book. These are easier to rebuild than teaching a 8 year old to tie their shoes.
Their is on or two rubber diaphragms with a plastic plug in the front and simple atmospheric valve on back. Vacuum enters the front and places negative pressure on the front half of each diaphragm. Inspect the rubber for cracking or holes, buy and replace what you need.
Before putting together, use a clean lint-free paper towel to clean inner housing and parts. Silicone grease is the proper lubricant to rehydrate the rubber and lube plastic parts. Easy. Silicone grease is recommending to add to the door rubbers to extend their life and to keep them from sticking in the winter!
The parts slid into place, put the large spring a compress the housings together. Use a blunt punch (Steel or Brass) to capture the it into an assembly. Easy. Put everything back to gather. Install vacuum tube into grommet, bolt booster to bulk head, install push-rod washer and hair-pin-cotter to safely hold in place.
Install push rod (Solid or adjustable)
Master cylinders used to come with the proper bench bleeding kit in the box. My zip lock bags has 24 plastic screw in fittings. It can be done with metal fittings and "No-Cop" pipe with a double or inverted flare. As long as 8-10" is left to bend and place into the bottom of your tandem master.
Clamp one ear into a vise and fill with DOT3 or DOT4, but not DOT5.
With the master set up to recirculate brake fluid in to correct revisor, push the piston in with a #3 Phillips screwdriver or round nose punch, bleed slowly until all air bubbles stop. This is bench bleeding. Bolt it into the booster leaving the lines hooked up. Tighten bolts evenly until snug. Torque comes at the end.
(IMPORTANT) have a helper push the brake pedal down slowly. Watching inside the master as tiny air bubbles come out the holes closest to the booster. This is filling while the second hole you can see it pressure.
(Bleeding) Each vehicle can be different with some using an "X" pattern and with ABS is different yet. But if bleeding brakes on a 1990 or older, start with the one furthest away like the right rear. Then left rear, right front, left front last.
(NOTE) if push rod between booster and master is too long, the tandem cylinders cannot fill. If too short, the pedal will go down far until hard. If squishy, you have air in the lines. Suspect the right rear first.
DK, ASE master tech since 78
Whats the symptoms of a bad brake booster?
Hard brake pedal
@@hutchhiperf okay Thanks