Sorry for noob questions, but what do you mean by "it floats back up through the master cylinder" ? Do you mean that the air finds its way through the master cylinder, up to the reservoir, and then to the atmosphere ?
That’s the I don’t know answer it just works at😂😂. Sorry, I seen this message early in the morning maybe my brains not working All right, my brain just clicked on. I can answer that . I don’t remember when I said that, but I do remember saying that because I didn’t have time to think about where the air goes I thought I explain this in the video but maybe I didn’t do a very good job when the lines are open and you push down on the brake pedal. It pushes the air out from the open lines then before the brake pedal is released, you close the lines the plunger inside the master cylinder, draws the fluid back up into the master cylinder there should not be air, but if there is air, it will travel back through the fluid because there’s no gap between the fluid in that air Hass to go somewhere but I don’t believe that there’s actually air in there any longer because it pushes fluid and the air through the tips of the open brake lines.
Damn, that's genius!! 👍 Your method also bypasses the need to do an auto bleed of the ABS system. Most DIY'ers can't afford the type of scan tool that has that capability..
That’s a very valid point I didn’t even think of that. 🤔 If I had I would’ve mentioned it in the video . I was just trying to demonstrate something that I learned about 20 years ago…. And I’ve got a super stupid super sweet video coming up here in the next couple of weeks where I get electrocuted by a car battery…… I know you already know it’s gonna be fun and games 😂😂😂 i’m super excited about it I can’t wait for everybody to see this it’s hilarious.
Great video!! Helped me out a lot! Saved me from a bench bleed and no xtra tools woohoo ur the best!! Enjoy ur content u bring some fun to working on cars!!
Dude thanks Ralph I greatly appreciate that I love that video in particular even though I probably made it a little bit too long adding in my little shorts I thought it was a very funny video but extremely informational as well so I’m very pleased to hear somebody actually likes it thank you very much welcome to the channel we’re very happy to have folks like you here!!
Thanks for this video… I’m a fellow Michigander and I always try to do things myself because taking it in brings more problems for me… by that I mean shops telling me I need $1300 worth or work when that’s not the case!
you mean like $120 to replace all the Nitrogen in your tires?? Or, Your engine coolant should be red, it's turned green from contaminants, we need to flush it and replace the Radiator, overflow tank, and new hoses, because you never know how it happened, all for the low, low price of $700 + tax.?? Or my Favorite. Bring you an oil filter from an old, destroyed engine and the burnt oil out of a rear end and show it to the poor, unsuspecting person and tell em they need a new engine for $5 Grand??
@@JamesMiller-fm8qs it’s so weird you bring up the $120 nitrogen in the tires… never heard of it until a coworker was shopping for a car… his wife called him and told him the dealership added that to their total and the wife said hell no! I swear when my dad used to tell me you gotta switch the summer air out I thought he was kidding…. And that’s a damn shame about the engine but I believe it. They got me for my cat twice and I now do all my own work in my driveway no matter how many times I have to put it back together and pull it back apart. Took me 2 weeks to get my rear hub off but I was not taking it in
What are you trying to say Brian? I didn’t add enough BS in there….. I was certain I did happy to have you, nevertheless but generally I put a lot of BS in my videos unnecessary jokes. I guess that’s what I’m talking about.
Dealing with a issue now. We started with a sudden drop in the pedal to the floor. I checked brake fluid and it was pretty good but I added more to top it off. Checked it a few days later and still in same spot, so figure no leaks. Given that we just had new front brake lines/calipers/rotors/pads put in like 4 or so months ago, knew those should be good. I assumed bad master cylinder. Replaced that today, but no bleed kit came with it and the one I bought at the store did not have the right size, so I winged it since our car was a bit sketchy to drive again while having this issue. I installed master cylinder, used finger pressure to work out initial flow of fluid from it. Then I put lines on, had gf put pedal down after I opened the lines, but I had her push it until it stopped moving then locked them down and released pedal. We did this a few times, sometimes doing both lines at once and sometimes doing 1 line at a time. We still have a pedal that goes all the way to the floor. I guess our next step is to bleed the calipers, but without a jack currently (mine took a shit), I crawled under the back to do the back drum rotors but did not seed a bleeder back there. Any thoughts?
Not any that you haven’t already thought of you still want to check out the things that I talk about in my spongy brake video it will show you exactly what the problem is when you go through the steps However, you already know in the situation what you need to do you need a jack and you need to remove the wheels and you need to do it correctly . My assumption is one of your calipers or your brake line is bad I know that they say they replaced” them, but that doesn’t mean things don’t go bad, especially nowadays when they’re made made by Asians under the age of 12
Wish u were closer I’m in Pontiac and just replaced the calipers and rotors and the master cylinder and still have no breaks forward or back made sure all the air was out u have any advice I work on semis but this has got me stumped it’s a 2010 dodge avenger rt
I am fighting just to access a brake line on a 2005 dakota, it's soo close to the fuse box and wiring harness connectors. If i can get it off, and get a new line, should I maybe try to fill the line as much as possible before reattaching it to the master cylinder ?.
I would recommend in that situation you will have to bleed them properly. And before you go to the parts store make sure you loosen up the bleeders then that way if 1 breaks you can handle it you don’t have to go back again
Can you please give me information on putting a power brake booster and new master cylinder on a 1974 Plymouth Duster that has a manual brake system? Any information or videos will help. Thank you, George
hey man i have a quick question what are the brake line block offs ? right before you had your assistant press the break half way and hold it it, and before you started to screw in the brake lines you said to unscrew the line block offs. are they basically just to stop the flow of the brake fluid or what are they and where are they?
At the very end you said something that sounded like the master cylindenr can be bled by simply unplugging the lines, letting it drip out and top it off manually. Did I catch that right?
You did hear that correctly it’s just like leaving any system open you know kind of like if you left the bleeder screw loose overnight it would drain the air out of the line same principle
@@sharpcarco This is amazing news. How long would this take... I believe i have air in my master cylinder but didn't want to go through the whole process of removal and bench bleeding. Also could I bleed even faster if I used your method of unscrewing the nuts, depressing the pedal, tightening the nut then release the brakes? Also wanted to mention the car is a Benz e class it has abs… is that something that should be only dealt with at the professional shop? I heard a big scanner is needed for these cars when doing brake jobs.
Hey clay good video. I’m in process of diagnosing brake system in 2010 escape. Every once in awhile while driving I’ll press brake and it goes to floor. I have no leaks. Would this be the master cylinder or brake booster. Anyway to know for sure
Believe Clay is speaking to the audience who knows all their brake components to start with. If you don’t know them all then it’s hard to diagnose. But a master cylinder does not have to leak for it go bad. Also brake booster can be function checked. Google them.
Try pulling out the fuse for the ABS and drive it for a while see if that ever does it again if it doesn’t do it again you need to replace the ABS controller I hope that helps
Try pulling out the fuse for the ABS and drive it for a while see if that ever does it again if it doesn’t do it again you need to replace the ABS controller I hope that helps do you know
I left a comment on a older utube video of yours bleeding a master cylinder on the vehicle. 04 Accord V6 3.0 RR caliper failure With total brake fluid lost. (Not me my kid did it) It now has all new brake rotors and 2 new calipers on rear. I'm now stuck. I know there is air in lines. Because of the fluid loss . Starting at master cylinder Can I use the master cylinder bleed tip you used in the video. Then bleed at all the calipers.
Well I can’t say for certain Emily but I would have to guess that it’s a possibility that you now need to bleed the whole system and it’s also possible that you will need a scanner to be able to get the air out of the inside of the ABS system I haven’t worked on that particular system personally that I can remember anyways so sorry I can’t be of much help in the situation
is it possible to do this repair without an assistant, like using a piece of wood to put a little bit of pressure on the brake and use a stopper piece of wood under the peddle so that it doesn't get pressed all the way down?
@@sharpcarco ah ok got you, it is actually a good technique, and its great that if I remove the battery snd the air box I have a lot of space to work with. Many thanks
@@sharpcarco if the master cylinder is bad should the pedal be spongy or sink even if the engine is off? Or it depends on whete the onternal leak is? In my case, engine off, I pump it 3 or 4 times and it gets hard.
If it’s a Master cylinder replace should not be able to pump up the brakes to make it harder….. if you don’t have any fluid leaking somewhere else regardless of if the motor is running or shut off better to test brakes when the motor is off because they’re not vacuum assisted at that point. You never bleed brakes when the engine is running.
Help! I have a 2001 toyota 4runner and need info on bleeding brakes as the master cylinder and brakes were an issue on the 2001 2002. Seems like it was to be brought back to the dealership with them having the SST to bleed brakes. 3k is what they want to do the work
Very rarely do they go bad, But when they do go bad, they will make a squishy swish sound when you depress them, and your engine could run poorly because it runs off of the vacuum from the engine .
I have a 2012 Ford Escape XLT awd 3.0l with a far traveling pedal. No leaks that ive found fluid stays on max. I dont know where to start to diagnose this issue. Ive heard bleed the brakes add new fluid, check booster pin adjustment, adjust the rear drum brakes HELP!
Pretty easy job you just remove the two bolts securing down the master cylinder and then there’s four bolts holding down the brake booster and it’s connected to the brake pedal.. I’m assuming since you’re asking and you probably don’t know much about this process but I can explain do you there are only two reasons you would ever need to change your brake booster that I can think of off the top of my head It makes a swishing noise when you push it Or with the vacuum hooked up correctly the pedal is very hard to push There are no reasons to change a brake booster other than that . Just in case you didn’t know.
I know this method will work ok. I just think it's wrong maybe even irresponsible to skip the very important step of bleeding of all of the brake lines when replacing a master cylinder. 1st - You can't get %100 of the air out of all of the lines w/this method. In other words; the pedal can be better. 2nd -If the master cylinder is bad - chances are excellent that it's old and has dirty fluid in it just like the one in this video. (fact; it's dirty fluid that causes most brake/seal leak failures in the first place) So, never ever leave that old dirty fluid in brake lines after u change a master cylinder. Remember: the brake calipers/wheel cylinders use the same type of rubber seals that are in the master cylinder. And the very same dirty fluid is still flowing through the entire brake system. Just spend the extra $2.00 in brake fluid and do the job all the way. Don't take any chances w/ your brakes. Not just for the satisfaction of doing the job right - it will almost completely ensure that you won't have replace an expensive caliper/wheel cylinder later. Don't forget, it's the same dirt that just ruined the master cylinder and it's already in your calipers/wheel cylinders. And when u have to replace the caliper, ect, you're gonna have to bleed that line anyway. Last thing is: when the fluid gets into the brake booster like this one - the brake booster should be changed as well. The seals in the booster are not designed to resist the corrosive/chemicals of brake fluid. It will fail. Maybe not today - but it will fail. It's a lot easier to change it with master cylinder out of the way.
Tell us you stopped watching the video and commented without watching the video …. So what you’re saying is when the brake pedal comes up it doesn’t suck fluid back into the master cylinder….. ? So explain to us How would air ever get inside the lines if when you were doing it the conventional method of bleeding the system Well, I don’t know all I can tell you is I’ve been doing it that way for decades. But to each their own. Do it the right way I don’t have an issue with that. I was just saying that it’s not necessary. I don’t expect everybody with a quarter of a brain to understand these things so it doesn’t bother me a bit. This is the way that I do it.
@@sharpcarco Yeah man, I saw the entire video. If you read my entire comment - you'd know that I said that it'll work - Never said it won't work, just that you'll never get ALL of the air out and that the pedal is better if you bleed the entire system. I know for a fact that if I bled the lines after you were done with that K-Mart fix, I'd get more air out of the lines. Nearly half of my work these days is repairing cheap fixes from wannabe's like you. I'll take the work anytime - but brakes are serious component and should be done properly/correctly. I'm sure you've been doing it that way for many years and it might seem fine/ok, and last for while. But leaving all of that dirty fluid in the lines and in the calipers/wheel cylinders will cause another failure. Guaranteed it will fail somewhere else. Also, you never replaced the brake booster - all master mechanics (of which I'm one of for over 40 years) agree on all of these points. Brakes might be the most important safety feature on the vehicle. You are potentially putting peoples lives in danger over a few dollars of brake fluid and 15 minutes of extra work. ARE YOU REALLY THAT CHEAP AND LAZY, AND CARELESS? If that's your way; then so be it! If you want to post silly ridiculous videos; accept the constructive feedback and our great advise like a man. Don't be such a baby when you know I'm %100 right. You're cheap, lazy, and dangerous.
@@sharpcarco what are u talking about. He did it halfway. left air in the lines and never bothered to flush the lines with new fluid. should always bleed the lines on a new master cylinder.
OK.. do you know hydraulic fluid doesn’t go bad.. it doesn’t disappear… it doesn’t compress, but I mean whatever makes you folks feel good it’s all good with me I don’t care. I’m just saying my 30 years of experience it’s unnecessary and a waste of time but if you want to do it because it makes you feel good go right ahead be my guest.
@@sharpcarco the one thing about DOT3, it’s hygroscopic. It absorbs water. It does have a limited capacity to do so, so if you add water to it, you’re out of luck, lol. Still, the fluid does get dirty and contaminated and starts to absorb water from the air, road, etc as the brake pistons move. That contamination can lead to seals breaking down sooner, I think. To each their own, though! If the brakes work, the brakes work.
@ clayway - Brake fluid does go bad. It's recommended that it be changed every 2 years. No one ever does. LOL Even though it's a closed system it collects moisture - reducing it's effectiveness.
A question: what happens to the air, which initially is contained between the brake lines and the master cylinder? I understand that your trick sucks it back into the master cylinder. And the what? Doesn't the master cylinder need to be bled again to remove this air?
Sorry for noob questions, but what do you mean by "it floats back up through the master cylinder" ? Do you mean that the air finds its way through the master cylinder, up to the reservoir, and then to the atmosphere ?
I can’t say for certain, but I’m fairly certain that that engine runs in the opposite direction as well that’s really the only reason that they would do that but whatever
Sorry Mike I’d love to do that for you, but I don’t have one. I would imagine, though that isn’t much different than the one I had in this video.. I can almost guarantee it
To bleed third chamber open wheel cylinder below pump hold Crack bleeder on 3rd camber tighten release pedal repeat close wheel cylinder and replied that one to make sure still good
The seals in 3rd chamber go bad and leak into booster have 5o buy complete brake assembly to get center part 47200-0c073 cost about a grand give or take 100
Ok I realize I'm a dumb ass and I'm far from a mechanic. But I bought this lil GMC Sonoma and it had a broke driver side brake line. Needed to get it home so I pinched the brake line off. Me being a procrastinator, I still haven't replaced the line a week later. Now suddenly my clutch is completely gone and brake fluid extremely low. If I fix the brake line , could that fix my clutch possibly bc master cylinder may not have fluid? Again, if this is completely wrong, I'm not even remotely a mechanic.
Bigger dumbass here. I have a GMC also, and I'm pretty sure my power steering is plugged into the brakes??? I may just drive it into the Atlantic, then I'll have zero repairs.
If the master cylinder sucks air out of the lines. Then my confusion is. Does it bubble out of master cylinder? Or air only exits when lines are cracked while pedal is depressed all the way down? That point is my confusion. Please help
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No that wasn’t a problem with this particular vehicle. It was the ABS module itself in a later video I show you how to change it at this time. I thought it was a possibility that the master cylinder was bad, but I was incorrect. Still a great video, though, because I was able to demonstrate a process that I’ve used for a couple decades, to bleed it out different master cylinders. And yes, I still on this vehicle drive it daily with a used master cylinder
Well, you may not have an assistant, so you ain’t gonna get any further than that but as far as bench bleeding goes using this procedure, you don’t have to do it on the bench .
I don’t think you could make this sound any more complicated than you did. Have you purchased a new master cylinder lately? Why in the bloody world would you not bench bleed it and avoid all this drama?
Even if you bench bled the master cylinder you would have to bleed the whole system…… that’s why did you pay attention to the video? That was the whole point…… why don’t you shut your pot licker and just go do whatever the hell it is that you do
That’s good you can go watch somebody else’s video… it’s called TheClayWay, not the Ralph Way.. I always love it when big ass babies whine about free videos…
Sorry for noob questions, but what do you mean by "it floats back up through the master cylinder" ? Do you mean that the air finds its way through the master cylinder, up to the reservoir, and then to the atmosphere ?
That’s the I don’t know answer it just works at😂😂. Sorry, I seen this message early in the morning maybe my brains not working
All right, my brain just clicked on. I can answer that .
I don’t remember when I said that, but I do remember saying that because I didn’t have time to think about where the air goes
I thought I explain this in the video but maybe I didn’t do a very good job when the lines are open and you push down on the brake pedal. It pushes the air out from the open lines then before the brake pedal is released, you close the lines the plunger inside the master cylinder, draws the fluid back up into the master cylinder there should not be air, but if there is air, it will travel back through the fluid because there’s no gap between the fluid in that air Hass to go somewhere but I don’t believe that there’s actually air in there any longer because it pushes fluid and the air through the tips of the open brake lines.
Clay, I love the humor!! Kudos!
Dig the message. "If anyone else can do it you can too." Great video. 👍
Great video Clay. I will give your procedure a try since I have to replace my master cylinder.
Damn, that's genius!! 👍 Your method also bypasses the need to do an auto bleed of the ABS system. Most DIY'ers can't afford the type of scan tool that has that capability..
That’s a very valid point I didn’t even think of that. 🤔 If I had I would’ve mentioned it in the video . I was just trying to demonstrate something that I learned about 20 years ago….
And I’ve got a super stupid super sweet video coming up here in the next couple of weeks where I get electrocuted by a car battery…… I know you already know it’s gonna be fun and games 😂😂😂 i’m super excited about it I can’t wait for everybody to see this it’s hilarious.
@@sharpcarco I gotta say it: AAAAAAAND THEN?? 🤣🤣🤣
Great video!! Helped me out a lot! Saved me from a bench bleed and no xtra tools woohoo ur the best!! Enjoy ur content u bring some fun to working on cars!!
Dude thanks Ralph I greatly appreciate that I love that video in particular even though I probably made it a little bit too long adding in my little shorts I thought it was a very funny video but extremely informational as well so I’m very pleased to hear somebody actually likes it thank you very much welcome to the channel we’re very happy to have folks like you here!!
It's not ! skipping bench bleeding it's skipping bleeding the brake lines to the calibers/wheel cylinders .
Cllay on fixing master cylinder
Thanks for this video… I’m a fellow Michigander and I always try to do things myself because taking it in brings more problems for me… by that I mean shops telling me I need $1300 worth or work when that’s not the case!
I'm in michigan too and you not lying about that
If it’s southeast it’s nonstop 🥲 we drive em hard tho
@@moemoe0032 definitely southeast
you mean like $120 to replace all the Nitrogen in your tires?? Or, Your engine coolant should be red, it's turned green from contaminants, we need to flush it and replace the Radiator, overflow tank, and new hoses, because you never know how it happened, all for the low, low price of $700 + tax.?? Or my Favorite. Bring you an oil filter from an old, destroyed engine and the burnt oil out of a rear end and show it to the poor, unsuspecting person and tell em they need a new engine for $5 Grand??
@@JamesMiller-fm8qs it’s so weird you bring up the $120 nitrogen in the tires… never heard of it until a coworker was shopping for a car… his wife called him and told him the dealership added that to their total and the wife said hell no! I swear when my dad used to tell me you gotta switch the summer air out I thought he was kidding….
And that’s a damn shame about the engine but I believe it. They got me for my cat twice and I now do all my own work in my driveway no matter how many times I have to put it back together and pull it back apart. Took me 2 weeks to get my rear hub off but I was not taking it in
This was the most helpful even on a 06 Pathfinder.. thanks bro I'm from Bronson MI
Another Michigander! No problem! Glad you got some good info out of it!
Nice video no bs or annoying music now a sub
Thank you
What are you trying to say Brian? I didn’t add enough BS in there….. I was certain I did happy to have you, nevertheless but generally I put a lot of BS in my videos unnecessary jokes. I guess that’s what I’m talking about.
@@sharpcarco I appreciate the jokes.
It all makes for a good video.
I just love those blue gloves your're wearing? And then???
Excellent video.
Love the lighter😂
Dealing with a issue now. We started with a sudden drop in the pedal to the floor. I checked brake fluid and it was pretty good but I added more to top it off. Checked it a few days later and still in same spot, so figure no leaks. Given that we just had new front brake lines/calipers/rotors/pads put in like 4 or so months ago, knew those should be good. I assumed bad master cylinder. Replaced that today, but no bleed kit came with it and the one I bought at the store did not have the right size, so I winged it since our car was a bit sketchy to drive again while having this issue. I installed master cylinder, used finger pressure to work out initial flow of fluid from it. Then I put lines on, had gf put pedal down after I opened the lines, but I had her push it until it stopped moving then locked them down and released pedal. We did this a few times, sometimes doing both lines at once and sometimes doing 1 line at a time. We still have a pedal that goes all the way to the floor. I guess our next step is to bleed the calipers, but without a jack currently (mine took a shit), I crawled under the back to do the back drum rotors but did not seed a bleeder back there. Any thoughts?
Not any that you haven’t already thought of you still want to check out the things that I talk about in my spongy brake video it will show you exactly what the problem is when you go through the steps
However, you already know in the situation what you need to do you need a jack and you need to remove the wheels and you need to do it correctly . My assumption is one of your calipers or your brake line is bad I know that they say they replaced” them, but that doesn’t mean things don’t go bad, especially nowadays when they’re made made by Asians under the age of 12
@@sharpcarco ya I gotta figure out my jack situation for sure. Tomorrow I am gonna do a full bleed of calipers and see if that helps.
Excellent video refresher , thanks for the short but sweet cuts, a friend got air and possible soft line going bad...🤔🙂🥺✌️👍
Wish u were closer I’m in Pontiac and just replaced the calipers and rotors and the master cylinder and still have no breaks forward or back made sure all the air was out u have any advice I work on semis but this has got me stumped it’s a 2010 dodge avenger rt
I have to try the screwdriver tip, hope it works with recliners too.
I am fighting just to access a brake line on a 2005 dakota, it's soo close to the fuse box and wiring harness connectors. If i can get it off, and get a new line, should I maybe try to fill the line as much as possible before reattaching it to the master cylinder ?.
I would recommend in that situation you will have to bleed them properly. And before you go to the parts store make sure you loosen up the bleeders then that way if 1 breaks you can handle it you don’t have to go back again
Just got my heater core changed and now it feels like lots of air in the line!
Thanks for the video, Going to be trying this on my Vandura wish me luck 🤞
If you follow the instructions as annoying as they may be you will be successful!!
Love the old VANDURA!!!
Can you please give me information on putting a power brake booster and new master cylinder on a 1974 Plymouth Duster that has a manual brake system? Any information or videos will help. Thank you, George
hey man i have a quick question what are the brake line block offs ? right before you had your assistant press the break half way and hold it it, and before you started to screw in the brake lines you said to unscrew the line block offs. are they basically just to stop the flow of the brake fluid or what are they and where are they?
Yes
At the very end you said something that sounded like the master cylindenr can be bled by simply unplugging the lines, letting it drip out and top it off manually. Did I catch that right?
You did hear that correctly it’s just like leaving any system open you know kind of like if you left the bleeder screw loose overnight it would drain the air out of the line same principle
@@sharpcarco This is amazing news. How long would this take... I believe i have air in my master cylinder but didn't want to go through the whole process of removal and bench bleeding. Also could I bleed even faster if I used your method of unscrewing the nuts, depressing the pedal, tightening the nut then release the brakes? Also wanted to mention the car is a Benz e class it has abs… is that something that should be only dealt with at the professional shop? I heard a big scanner is needed for these cars when doing brake jobs.
Totally not what I’ve been taught but hey I’ll try it if my helper doesn’t make a mistake 🤞
👍🤞😂
Use a 2x4 or a pice of pvc pipe for a helper
Hey clay good video. I’m in process of diagnosing brake system in 2010 escape. Every once in awhile while driving I’ll press brake and it goes to floor. I have no leaks. Would this be the master cylinder or brake booster. Anyway to know for sure
Believe Clay is speaking to the audience who knows all their brake components to start with. If you don’t know them all then it’s hard to diagnose. But a master cylinder does not have to leak for it go bad. Also brake booster can be function checked. Google them.
Try pulling out the fuse for the ABS and drive it for a while see if that ever does it again if it doesn’t do it again you need to replace the ABS controller I hope that helps
Try pulling out the fuse for the ABS and drive it for a while see if that ever does it again if it doesn’t do it again you need to replace the ABS controller I hope that helps do you know
I left a comment on a older utube video of yours bleeding a master cylinder on the vehicle.
04 Accord V6 3.0 RR caliper failure
With total brake fluid lost. (Not me my kid did it)
It now has all new brake rotors and 2 new calipers on rear. I'm now stuck.
I know there is air in lines. Because of the fluid loss . Starting at master cylinder
Can I use the master cylinder bleed tip you used in the video. Then bleed at all the calipers.
Well I can’t say for certain Emily but I would have to guess that it’s a possibility that you now need to bleed the whole system and it’s also possible that you will need a scanner to be able to get the air out of the inside of the ABS system I haven’t worked on that particular system personally that I can remember anyways so sorry I can’t be of much help in the situation
is it possible to do this repair without an assistant, like using a piece of wood to put a little bit of pressure on the brake and use a stopper piece of wood under the peddle so that it doesn't get pressed all the way down?
Nicee! Im actually exited to do this myself! While bleeding why the brake pedal cant go all the way down?
It is supposed to go all the way down but what you don’t want to do is come up at all while the lines are open…..
@@sharpcarco ah ok got you, it is actually a good technique, and its great that if I remove the battery snd the air box I have a lot of space to work with. Many thanks
@@sharpcarco if the master cylinder is bad should the pedal be spongy or sink even if the engine is off? Or it depends on whete the onternal leak is? In my case, engine off, I pump it 3 or 4 times and it gets hard.
If it’s a Master cylinder replace should not be able to pump up the brakes to make it harder….. if you don’t have any fluid leaking somewhere else regardless of if the motor is running or shut off better to test brakes when the motor is off because they’re not vacuum assisted at that point.
You never bleed brakes when the engine is running.
@@sharpcarco does it mean if im able to pump the brakes and it gets hard the master cylinder is good?
Brilliant!
These videos are normally very dry. Maybe it's just the sexy assistant.
I must’ve put my wife in this video… lol thank you for the kind words. I hope you enjoyed it.
@@sharpcarco nailed it 🤜🤛 around 2:03. She is a babe for sure.
So does that mean "whatever's on hand" is available?
Help! I have a 2001 toyota 4runner and need info on bleeding brakes as the master cylinder and brakes were an issue on the 2001 2002. Seems like it was to be brought back to the dealership with them having the SST to bleed brakes. 3k is what they want to do the work
Clay, that last comment bleed with filler cap off, that gravity bleed? Thanks
You can also bleed the master cly by blocking line ports it does a better job getting air out of master clu
Are there any signs that a booster is bad?
Very rarely do they go bad,
But when they do go bad, they will make a squishy swish sound when you depress them, and your engine could run poorly because it runs off of the vacuum from the engine .
I have a 2012 Ford Escape XLT awd 3.0l with a far traveling pedal. No leaks that ive found fluid stays on max. I dont know where to start to diagnose this issue. Ive heard bleed the brakes add new fluid, check booster pin adjustment, adjust the rear drum brakes HELP!
This video will show you what your problem is. ruclips.net/video/mxxgQKfO1k8/видео.htmlsi=2NHtmFhs3QHK8umk
Thank you my friend new subscriber here
Video very helpful great job 👏 👍
Thanks Edward greatly appreciate the kind words welcome to the channel happy to have folks like you hear
Thanks man
How long should take to replace a brake booster?
Pretty easy job you just remove the two bolts securing down the master cylinder and then there’s four bolts holding down the brake booster and it’s connected to the brake pedal..
I’m assuming since you’re asking and you probably don’t know much about this process but I can explain do you there are only two reasons you would ever need to change your brake booster that I can think of off the top of my head
It makes a swishing noise when you push it
Or with the vacuum hooked up correctly the pedal is very hard to push
There are no reasons to change a brake booster other than that . Just in case you didn’t know.
20 minutes
I just did it 2 hours ago on my 2013 Kia Rio
I know this method will work ok. I just think it's wrong maybe even irresponsible to skip the very important step of bleeding of all of the brake lines when replacing a master cylinder. 1st - You can't get %100 of the air out of all of the lines w/this method. In other words; the pedal can be better. 2nd -If the master cylinder is bad - chances are excellent that it's old and has dirty fluid in it just like the one in this video. (fact; it's dirty fluid that causes most brake/seal leak failures in the first place) So, never ever leave that old dirty fluid in brake lines after u change a master cylinder. Remember: the brake calipers/wheel cylinders use the same type of rubber seals that are in the master cylinder. And the very same dirty fluid is still flowing through the entire brake system. Just spend the extra $2.00 in brake fluid and do the job all the way. Don't take any chances w/ your brakes. Not just for the satisfaction of doing the job right - it will almost completely ensure that you won't have replace an expensive caliper/wheel cylinder later. Don't forget, it's the same dirt that just ruined the master cylinder and it's already in your calipers/wheel cylinders. And when u have to replace the caliper, ect, you're gonna have to bleed that line anyway. Last thing is: when the fluid gets into the brake booster like this one - the brake booster should be changed as well. The seals in the booster are not designed to resist the corrosive/chemicals of brake fluid. It will fail. Maybe not today - but it will fail. It's a lot easier to change it with master cylinder out of the way.
You're spot on.
Tell us you stopped watching the video and commented without watching the video ….
So what you’re saying is when the brake pedal comes up it doesn’t suck fluid back into the master cylinder….. ?
So explain to us How would air ever get inside the lines if when you were doing it the conventional method of bleeding the system
Well, I don’t know all I can tell you is I’ve been doing it that way for decades. But to each their own.
Do it the right way I don’t have an issue with that. I was just saying that it’s not necessary. I don’t expect everybody with a quarter of a brain to understand these things so it doesn’t bother me a bit. This is the way that I do it.
@@sharpcarco Yeah man, I saw the entire video. If you read my entire comment - you'd know that I said that it'll work - Never said it won't work, just that you'll never get ALL of the air out and that the pedal is better if you bleed the entire system. I know for a fact that if I bled the lines after you were done with that K-Mart fix, I'd get more air out of the lines. Nearly half of my work these days is repairing cheap fixes from wannabe's like you. I'll take the work anytime - but brakes are serious component and should be done properly/correctly. I'm sure you've been doing it that way for many years and it might seem fine/ok, and last for while. But leaving all of that dirty fluid in the lines and in the calipers/wheel cylinders will cause another failure. Guaranteed it will fail somewhere else. Also, you never replaced the brake booster - all master mechanics (of which I'm one of for over 40 years) agree on all of these points. Brakes might be the most important safety feature on the vehicle. You are potentially putting peoples lives in danger over a few dollars of brake fluid and 15 minutes of extra work. ARE YOU REALLY THAT CHEAP AND LAZY, AND CARELESS? If that's your way; then so be it! If you want to post silly ridiculous videos; accept the constructive feedback and our great advise like a man. Don't be such a baby when you know I'm %100 right. You're cheap, lazy, and dangerous.
@@sharpcarco what are u talking about. He did it halfway. left air in the lines and never bothered to flush the lines with new fluid. should always bleed the lines on a new master cylinder.
The one “silver lining” of having to bleed the system is that you get new brake fluid throughout
OK.. do you know hydraulic fluid doesn’t go bad.. it doesn’t disappear… it doesn’t compress, but I mean whatever makes you folks feel good it’s all good with me I don’t care. I’m just saying my 30 years of experience it’s unnecessary and a waste of time but if you want to do it because it makes you feel good go right ahead be my guest.
@@sharpcarco the one thing about DOT3, it’s hygroscopic. It absorbs water. It does have a limited capacity to do so, so if you add water to it, you’re out of luck, lol. Still, the fluid does get dirty and contaminated and starts to absorb water from the air, road, etc as the brake pistons move. That contamination can lead to seals breaking down sooner, I think. To each their own, though! If the brakes work, the brakes work.
@ clayway - Brake fluid does go bad. It's recommended that it be changed every 2 years. No one ever does. LOL Even though it's a closed system it collects moisture - reducing it's effectiveness.
Do you cut the car on or you can leave the car out
Leave it off
Going on a tangent here...Yes, you can flip a wrench over to get a better angle. Why are most serpentine belt tool crows feet angled at 90 degrees?
Does this bleed the master cylinder too can you
Yes
A question: what happens to the air, which initially is contained between the brake lines and the master cylinder? I understand that your trick sucks it back into the master cylinder. And the what? Doesn't the master cylinder need to be bled again to remove this air?
It floats back up through the master cylinder, or is released when you re-open line
Sorry for noob questions, but what do you mean by "it floats back up through the master cylinder" ? Do you mean that the air finds its way through the master cylinder, up to the reservoir, and then to the atmosphere ?
Would I just need to open up one of the valves, or both valves, before I push down the plunger? Thanks.
I think he said one at a time (on the bench bleed portion of the video).
Hi sir I cant seem to remove the 2 nuts that attaches the master cylinder to brake booster as they spin thanks
I can’t say for certain, but I’m fairly certain that that engine runs in the opposite direction as well that’s really the only reason that they would do that but whatever
If possible send me a link on a 2004 Toyota tundra v8
Brake master cylinder
Sorry Mike I’d love to do that for you, but I don’t have one. I would imagine, though that isn’t much different than the one I had in this video.. I can almost guarantee it
To bleed third chamber open wheel cylinder below pump hold Crack bleeder on 3rd camber tighten release pedal repeat close wheel cylinder and replied that one to make sure still good
The seals in 3rd chamber go bad and leak into booster have 5o buy complete brake assembly to get center part 47200-0c073 cost about a grand give or take 100
Don’t put vice on bore put it on flange. bore can distort and ruin a new master. 7:28
I love 😂 the lighter joke 😅just in case you have to set it on fire 🔥
Clay way all day!!!!!
You should ALWAYS bleed the system...period. There are no extra points for cutting corners.
Then do it…
@@sharpcarco Always do, but that's just because I'm not a backyard mechanic who will get someone killed because of my half assed work.
@youknowkbbabyYou don't need to. Just get a friend to pump the brakes while you work the valve on the caliper. Takes 2 minutes.
Yeah, very true. But he is entertaining and he's doing his best to be helpful.
If you've got all the answers, why TF are you here???
Ok I realize I'm a dumb ass and I'm far from a mechanic. But I bought this lil GMC Sonoma and it had a broke driver side brake line. Needed to get it home so I pinched the brake line off. Me being a procrastinator, I still haven't replaced the line a week later. Now suddenly my clutch is completely gone and brake fluid extremely low. If I fix the brake line , could that fix my clutch possibly bc master cylinder may not have fluid? Again, if this is completely wrong, I'm not even remotely a mechanic.
I’m not sure generally they’re two separate systems, but it may be possible that there integrated I’m not certain no sorry
Bigger dumbass here. I have a GMC also, and I'm pretty sure my power steering is plugged into the brakes???
I may just drive it into the Atlantic, then I'll have zero repairs.
How'd you know when abs box is bad and not master cylinder
If the master cylinder sucks air out of the lines. Then my confusion is. Does it bubble out of master cylinder? Or air only exits when lines are cracked while pedal is depressed all the way down? That point is my confusion. Please help
Little help on this dumb question lol
Exits out the lines. You are bleeding the air out of the master cylinder and when you have the Lions closed you were sucking the air from the lines
Not a dumb question.
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Are you installing a used MC?
I’ve done it both ways. I don’t remember what I was using in that video but it works each way doesn’t matter.
@@sharpcarco It looked kinda dirty, so I thought it might be used. Any issues with used MC's?
No that wasn’t a problem with this particular vehicle. It was the ABS module itself in a later video I show you how to change it at this time. I thought it was a possibility that the master cylinder was bad, but I was incorrect. Still a great video, though, because I was able to demonstrate a process that I’ve used for a couple decades, to bleed it out different master cylinders.
And yes, I still on this vehicle drive it daily with a used master cylinder
Jesús!!! He talkssss.
clay ur the shit!!
🤔. Well, tell me more….. 😂😂
This might be old... can you re-use the old reservoir for a new master cylinder? Thanks
Yes it’s made of plastic and we’ve all been told that plastic is forever..
@@sharpcarco Thank you, sir. Didn't realize that the one I ordered has no reservoir.
@@temle7489 yeah it’s quite normal
I couldn’t do it I really messed things up now I have no brakes at all lol
You must have bloody good eyesight to be able to see through them glasses.
2. Very old fluid, so want to flush lines anyway with new master.
No
❤
Well that's not gonna help me any, because I don't have an assistant to push the pedal or a vice to bench-bleed the new master
Well, you may not have an assistant, so you ain’t gonna get any further than that but as far as bench bleeding goes using this procedure, you don’t have to do it on the bench .
That's a Line Wrench; not a Box Wrench.
Hey Joe does it all the time….. So that give me a pass …
Germany is laughing (:-)
The clay way. More like the gay way. 😂😂 Just kidding. Couldn't resist
O my God. Get to the point. All the extra stuff made me stop your video
Bye Felicia
I don’t think you could make this sound any more complicated than you did. Have you purchased a new master cylinder lately? Why in the bloody world would you not bench bleed it and avoid all this drama?
Even if you bench bled the master cylinder you would have to bleed the whole system…… that’s why did you pay attention to the video? That was the whole point…… why don’t you shut your pot licker and just go do whatever the hell it is that you do
I just couldn't sit through all the bullshit. Just tell me what I need to know about bleeding the master.
That’s good you can go watch somebody else’s video… it’s called TheClayWay, not the Ralph Way.. I always love it when big ass babies whine about free videos…