I recently bought a 2014 Mercedes S550 with the W222 engine. When I drove it home and opened the hood I was in a panic when I heard the tappet sound. You just set my mind at ease. Thank you.
I have worked on a few Mercedes, yours might have a plastic jumper that feeds the tappet. They tend to break which causes a taping sound from all the extra play
I been searching how to check push rod length check for 5.0 302 SBF and no videos show what lifters do they use to check the length . Some say the roller hyd lifters will bleed out and give you an inaccurate measurement on push rod length . Awesome video thanks
I believe the anti pump up lifter was invented and perfected by Ed iskenderian ( "The Cam Father")in the late 50s or early 60s. I love isky cams. My father ran anti pump up lifters in his 64 GTO with a 389 tripower he bought brand new in Riverside California. I believe my father and Iskenderian worked together until they found a good grind. After internal mods and and ISKY cam.. He ran the car in the Low 11s in bracket racing and has ran 10.9s naturally aspirated ... pump gas. I sure do miss the Riverside Raceway in Southern Cal... these were very quick times for a street car in the 60s. Also raced a 30s Coupe with the same engine. It was said my father had the fastest street car at the time.. he ended up selling both the GTO and his Coupe. We Miss you Rich Thompson...RIP
I have a 1990 fatboy original motor with a ev-46 cam I'm about to put in S&S 33-5353 hydraulic tappets with the HL2T kit and staying with the Rivera ajustable push rods that are in her now as they look perfectly clean & unscaved. Will this combo work?
Good vid sir. Is there a practice of reconditioning lifters by cleaning them out with parts cleaner or similar? Marvel helps occasionally? Or something stronger if you removed the lifter itself?
I have used marvel, it gave me 75 miles of silence. If you are doing routine oil changes and think you have a failed tappet I would recommend just replacing.... they aren't that expensive.
I need 8 tappets for a 30 yo diesel engine (Westerbeke) but none can be found. Are there businesses that could/would make them for a relatively reasonable cost?
My jeep is a 1993 YJ Wrangler 2.5 4 cylinder. Not 100% sure engine is original since Jeep has 290K on the odometer. Did an in-frame rebuild on a replacement engine. Replaced all the valves since the previous owner overheated engine and rings had no tension and it pumped so much oil thru the engine, totally carboned up valves. Think my valves from Crown where a little short or pushrods and rockers are warn. No adjustment on rockers. New Seal Power HT-2011 lifters. Sounds perfect upon startup. Then, I have valve tapping when it warms up. (way louder then a solid lifter Toyota set correctly) I pulled the valve cover and took the bridge between the two valves off to see where my 20 ft.lb. torque non-adjustable lifters where. Six have 1/2 turn after no play before torque would start. Two have 3/4 of a turn. So obviously due to different seat depths in the rebuild, it’s a little off. The rocker bolt is 5/16-18 threads. So two valves are into lifter .055 and 6 are only .041. I want to take the rocker arm fulcrum pivot base and carefully grind it to lower rocker arms so I can get proper depth into the lifter. Best I can tell, the lifter has .200 of travel. Federal-Mogul Motorparts Product Support Team recommended 3/4 turn which is what I have on 2. You think 3/4 turn is good. Think grinding off .013 off rocker arm fulcrum pivot base will help? Think I should go 1 turn on them all?
Did that when I change out to the new lifters. Made cardboard side fences. Sounds OK till it gets half warm. Then it picks up the tick. Just number 2 and 3 mostly. One is OK. Four just a tad. Not 100% sure engine is actually a rebuild and may me original but hard to believe with 300K on it. Cylinders were hardly worn and had no ridge. I replaced the timing chain and gears. However, at idle, the valve tick when it gets fully warm is uneven enough that it makes some noise in at the timing chain cover. It has gotten steadily louder in the last 6 months with 8K on rebuild. It ticks now at startup. Lash is working on surfaces I guess. It sounds just like his in the RUclips. Start at 15.25 ruclips.net/video/YTmLQVrRarI/видео.html I carefully measure cam during my inframe rebuild. Inspected all the bearings. Clearance was within tolerance. However, I did not inspect the slight ramp before the lift in a camshaft that is called the clearance ramp. All the lob looked good and were within a few .001 of being same. Does a hydraulic camshaft have a lift lead just before the big hill up?
@@RIPSAWONE I was going to say to try and rotate the tappets to a cylinder that isn't make noise to see if it may be the tappet (I realize they are new). For the chain did you use a new tensioner and guide? Did you take the head and have it reworked when you did the build? The slight variance in the tappet pre-load won't make the noise.
The noise with the new lifters is the same as the original I cleaned. They cleaned ones had that little crimped flat disk rather then a ball. It had some wear on the high crimp oil bleed. I assumed it was worn. I put a complete kit for the timing chain. Made sure the tensioner leaver was released. It was making this same noise when I tore it down. Mostly goes away when you rev it. Maybe it's piston slap. Pistons measured OK, however. Did have some wear area. No play in piston pin. And I did farm out the head. I got new valves due to all carbon. Was lapping them in since seats looked OK. However, a couple where off about .002 and seats were so hard, I had a local shop touch them up. Told them I wanted to put it back together. (I wanted to inspect it) However, they cleaned and put it back together. (for $35 no less) I did not want to tear up valve seals since they kept plastic sleeve. They did leak a tad with kero but Jeep is a hobby car just to replace my Harley. However, now my college grandchild student is using it as a daily driver.
@@RIPSAWONE sounds like you covered everything I would have thought of. Your problem is not lifters or their pre-load or the chain for that matter. I would imagine you are hearing some piston noise.
for a hydraulic tappet? It is going to beat that rocker and pushrod up. I would start with flushing the oil and using some additive to see if you can build that tappet back up. If it is tapping bad it is likely too worn and will need replacing.
@@lukasgarrison8505 Hi, so its done around 100K. Timing belt snapped, I bought the car as a project like that. Its a 2.0 turbo diesel. Compression test gave me 200psi in 3 cylinders and 0PSI in the last one. I tried to do a leak down which just ended up being compressed air straight into the cylinder with no gauge as I couldn't find an adapter but to my surprise there was no huge leak of air coming out anywhere, tiny bit from the air intake, nothing from exhaust, nothing from coolant bottle, small amount from oil filler. Anyway I took the head off expecting there must be bent valves and they still might be but there's no obviously bent ones I took them all out and put the stem against a straight edge and they all looked ok also spun them in a drill to check the ends. All of the valves have hit the pistons as there are small marks on the piston tops. I think I'm just gonna find a good used head and try that. I just kinda expected to find an obvious leak with there being no compression at all but I'm no expert just doing this as a hobby and trying to learn.
Hey im building a gen 6 .030 over howards 555 lift int and exahst hyd roller wont se much more than 5600 will the stock lifters be a problem thanks for the videos by the way great job
I wouldn't normally re-use tappets when changing a cam. I went with COMP Cams High Energy Hydraulic Roller Lifters 900-16. I wouldn't have any worries using new stock lifters, it's not the quality of the lifters that is an issue. If you are using aftermarket heads just make sure you have the correct springs for a roller setup. Again, its not the quality of a stock lifter that is an issue it's more about the wear on the lifters. What heads are you using out of curiosity?
@@lukasgarrison8505 in 1999 454 went back to standard oval port . They built just like the small block chevy vortecs . The cool part is they have 99 cc combustion chambers . So you 9 to 1 with a flat top piston . Torque out the wazzo . Pulls good to 5600 rpm
I recently bought a 2014 Mercedes S550 with the W222 engine. When I drove it home and opened the hood I was in a panic when I heard the tappet sound. You just set my mind at ease. Thank you.
I have worked on a few Mercedes, yours might have a plastic jumper that feeds the tappet. They tend to break which causes a taping sound from all the extra play
Finally a great explanation. Thank you.
Highly informative video!!!! Thank you so much for the explanation!!
Excellent. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Really very helpful video. Keep it up sir....
I been searching how to check push rod length check for 5.0 302 SBF and no videos show what lifters do they use to check the length . Some say the roller hyd lifters will bleed out and give you an inaccurate measurement on push rod length . Awesome video thanks
had to miss my engine theory class today and the book worded this section so weird... Thank you so much!!!
Great video...its straight forward..and well explained...
Best video i have seen on the subject. Great job
Great video ! I'm in tech school now for automotive. Please do more of these very helpful!
They are coming, almost done with the garage
, you are brilliant
Force equals pressure times area and pressure (psi) equals force divided by area. (5:20)
I believe the anti pump up lifter was invented and perfected by Ed iskenderian ( "The Cam Father")in the late 50s or early 60s. I love isky cams. My father ran anti pump up lifters in his 64 GTO with a 389 tripower he bought brand new in Riverside California. I believe my father and Iskenderian worked together until they found a good grind. After internal mods and and ISKY cam.. He ran the car in the Low 11s in bracket racing and has ran 10.9s naturally aspirated ... pump gas. I sure do miss the Riverside Raceway in Southern Cal... these were very quick times for a street car in the 60s. Also raced a 30s Coupe with the same engine. It was said my father had the fastest street car at the time.. he ended up selling both the GTO and his Coupe. We Miss you Rich Thompson...RIP
Thanks for your time
Nice video. But the fact of the matter is it is incredibly difficult to imagine how the engine oil circulates through all these intricate structures.
I agree with you! I have a video for a BBC because I had to figure it out on that block ruclips.net/video/Qoc_yGOmjMo/видео.html
More videos please, some good info here!
I have a 1990 fatboy original motor with a ev-46 cam I'm about to put in S&S 33-5353 hydraulic tappets with the HL2T kit and staying with the Rivera ajustable push rods that are in her now as they look perfectly clean & unscaved.
Will this combo work?
Million dollar question - should you install lifters bled out allowing a little play or fully primed, hard as a rock?
I always soak them the night before. You do not want them put in dry. It would be ideal to have them fully primed.
Good vid sir. Is there a practice of reconditioning lifters by cleaning them out with parts cleaner or similar? Marvel helps occasionally? Or something stronger if you removed the lifter itself?
I have used marvel, it gave me 75 miles of silence. If you are doing routine oil changes and think you have a failed tappet I would recommend just replacing.... they aren't that expensive.
I need 8 tappets for a 30 yo diesel engine (Westerbeke) but none can be found. Are there businesses that could/would make them for a relatively reasonable cost?
Great video!!
Would the rocker arms be loose if the tappets are not primed
They should not be loose. They would be easier to move but there should not be vertical play, if that makes sense.
My jeep is a 1993 YJ Wrangler 2.5 4 cylinder. Not 100% sure engine is original since Jeep has 290K on the odometer.
Did an in-frame rebuild on a replacement engine. Replaced all the valves since the previous owner overheated engine and rings had no tension and it pumped so much oil thru the engine, totally carboned up valves.
Think my valves from Crown where a little short or pushrods and rockers are warn. No adjustment on rockers. New Seal Power HT-2011 lifters.
Sounds perfect upon startup. Then, I have valve tapping when it warms up. (way louder then a solid lifter Toyota set correctly)
I pulled the valve cover and took the bridge between the two valves off to see where my 20 ft.lb. torque non-adjustable lifters where. Six have 1/2 turn after no play before torque would start. Two have 3/4 of a turn. So obviously due to different seat depths in the rebuild, it’s a little off.
The rocker bolt is 5/16-18 threads. So two valves are into lifter .055 and 6 are only .041. I want to take the rocker arm fulcrum pivot base and carefully grind it to lower rocker arms so I can get proper depth into the lifter.
Best I can tell, the lifter has .200 of travel. Federal-Mogul Motorparts Product Support Team recommended 3/4 turn which is what I have on 2.
You think 3/4 turn is good. Think grinding off .013 off rocker arm fulcrum pivot base will help? Think I should go 1 turn on them all?
I dont think you should be hearing any noise with them how they are right now if everything is right. Can you run it with the cover off?
Did that when I change out to the new lifters. Made cardboard side fences. Sounds OK till it gets half warm. Then it picks up the tick. Just number 2 and 3 mostly. One is OK. Four just a tad.
Not 100% sure engine is actually a rebuild and may me original but hard to believe with 300K on it. Cylinders were hardly worn and had no ridge. I replaced the timing chain and gears. However, at idle, the valve tick when it gets fully warm is uneven enough that it makes some noise in at the timing chain cover.
It has gotten steadily louder in the last 6 months with 8K on rebuild. It ticks now at startup. Lash is working on surfaces I guess.
It sounds just like his in the RUclips. Start at 15.25 ruclips.net/video/YTmLQVrRarI/видео.html
I carefully measure cam during my inframe rebuild. Inspected all the bearings. Clearance was within tolerance. However, I did not inspect the slight ramp before the lift in a camshaft that is called the clearance ramp. All the lob looked good and were within a few .001 of being same. Does a hydraulic camshaft have a lift lead just before the big hill up?
@@RIPSAWONE I was going to say to try and rotate the tappets to a cylinder that isn't make noise to see if it may be the tappet (I realize they are new). For the chain did you use a new tensioner and guide? Did you take the head and have it reworked when you did the build? The slight variance in the tappet pre-load won't make the noise.
The noise with the new lifters is the same as the original I cleaned. They cleaned ones had that little crimped flat disk rather then a ball. It had some wear on the high crimp oil bleed. I assumed it was worn. I put a complete kit for the timing chain. Made sure the tensioner leaver was released.
It was making this same noise when I tore it down. Mostly goes away when you rev it. Maybe it's piston slap. Pistons measured OK, however. Did have some wear area. No play in piston pin.
And I did farm out the head. I got new valves due to all carbon. Was lapping them in since seats looked OK. However, a couple where off about .002 and seats were so hard, I had a local shop touch them up. Told them I wanted to put it back together. (I wanted to inspect it) However, they cleaned and put it back together. (for $35 no less) I did not want to tear up valve seals since they kept plastic sleeve. They did leak a tad with kero but Jeep is a hobby car just to replace my Harley. However, now my college grandchild student is using it as a daily driver.
@@RIPSAWONE sounds like you covered everything I would have thought of. Your problem is not lifters or their pre-load or the chain for that matter. I would imagine you are hearing some piston noise.
Going to put in some Sns precision
Lifters
With adjustable push rods , do I still do the 3 turns on the push rods from zero lash
Not sure about that style of lifter. What does the manufacturer say about pre-load?
When that tapping voice happens,,what would happen if the tappets are not checked right away?
for a hydraulic tappet? It is going to beat that rocker and pushrod up. I would start with flushing the oil and using some additive to see if you can build that tappet back up. If it is tapping bad it is likely too worn and will need replacing.
@@lukasgarrison8505 wath about mechanical lifters
Just great!!
Can hydraulic tappets have an effect on compression? I’m having a bit of a nightmare figuring out why my engine has compression issues.
If properly adjusted they should not. How many miles? Have you done a leak down test?
@@lukasgarrison8505 Hi, so its done around 100K. Timing belt snapped, I bought the car as a project like that. Its a 2.0 turbo diesel. Compression test gave me 200psi in 3 cylinders and 0PSI in the last one. I tried to do a leak down which just ended up being compressed air straight into the cylinder with no gauge as I couldn't find an adapter but to my surprise there was no huge leak of air coming out anywhere, tiny bit from the air intake, nothing from exhaust, nothing from coolant bottle, small amount from oil filler. Anyway I took the head off expecting there must be bent valves and they still might be but there's no obviously bent ones I took them all out and put the stem against a straight edge and they all looked ok also spun them in a drill to check the ends. All of the valves have hit the pistons as there are small marks on the piston tops. I think I'm just gonna find a good used head and try that. I just kinda expected to find an obvious leak with there being no compression at all but I'm no expert just doing this as a hobby and trying to learn.
Hard to see if they are bent which i am sure they are. The leak down test should have showed a leak. I would take the head to a machine shop
thanks for the video. good job
Thanks boss
Hey im building a gen 6 .030 over howards 555 lift int and exahst hyd roller wont se much more than 5600 will the stock lifters be a problem thanks for the videos by the way great job
I wouldn't normally re-use tappets when changing a cam. I went with COMP Cams High Energy Hydraulic Roller Lifters 900-16. I wouldn't have any worries using new stock lifters, it's not the quality of the lifters that is an issue. If you are using aftermarket heads just make sure you have the correct springs for a roller setup. Again, its not the quality of a stock lifter that is an issue it's more about the wear on the lifters. What heads are you using out of curiosity?
@@lukasgarrison8505 stock l29 heads with howards roller springs
@@joshratcliff3065 why are you keeping that head? It is a peanut port right?
@@lukasgarrison8505 in 1999 454 went back to standard oval port . They built just like the small block chevy vortecs . The cool part is they have 99 cc combustion chambers . So you 9 to 1 with a flat top piston . Torque out the wazzo . Pulls good to 5600 rpm
Google search project project big hero
thanks
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