I went from ice to a DIY copper pipe immersion chiller and that served me well for years. I just recently upgraded to The Hydra from JaDeD, it's the one optimized for the kitchen sink as the source water as I'm an apartment brewer myself. I love the thing! Chills my 22 litre batches in just 10 minutes. The first time I used it, I though I had a leak in my pot because volume was dropping so fast from just the cooling shrinkage. I considered other options when I upgraded, like counter-flow and plate, but those bring with it extra cleaning issues and I'm all about simplifying the process myself. 10 minutes from boil to pitch is good enough for me.
I would second that. Right now I'm using a Robobrew 35L on 120V because I'm in an apartment. However, I recently noticed my stove is on wheels and I can easily access the 240V plug and have considered using that in a future upgrade.
I’m an expert at big brewing in tiny appartment. Just finished my herms setup (in a wife friendly fashion). Check out fullmetalbrewery on IG. New setup with The Electric Brewery panel coming soon.
The chiller I'm using is the brutus exchilerator. As they say...buy once cry once. It's "expensive", but well worth the price of admission. When you factor in time as the most expensive part of your day. Going from 30-60 minutes down to under 10 no matter the batch size is literally a day changer.
Great video, this is actually what I do, I have a 5500w 240v element that I run an extension cord from my dryer to my patio of 10/4 wire to be able to brew with 240v. It's been working wonderfully for me on a ripple style element. I have done about 15-20 brews with the setup and no issue. I have found an online calculator for voltage drop over the length of cable I am using as an extension cord plus the run from the panel to my laundry room, and I am only losing 5v (240v down to 235v) in theory, but a multimeter shows a full 120v on each leg so I am not all too worried about the loss. My ripple element looks just as it did the day I unboxed it.
Obviously really late - but you'll only see a voltage drop when the current is flowing, if you just just stick the multimeter into the plug without the element on, there will be no voltage drop.
First was 25 liters brew in a bag, cooled in the tub with cold water, upgraded to homebuilt copper imersion chiller, before making my 3 kettle HERMS system with copper counter flow chiller.
I would love a complete overview of your actual working system. You do so many great reviews of different stuff and your such a resource when I’m shopping around. But when you go to brew a beer on your own what’s the system.
I started with ice bath then I graduated to all gain and bought an immersion chiller (cheap one) , I saved a lot of my money for a plate chiller used it for a few brews, I just never trusted my cleaning process of it sold it on ebay and went back to my immersion chiller, I did upgrade to a Jaded, never looked back.
Ive got 2 jaded immersion chillers depending on my system; either blichmann boil coil or anvil foundry. I have used an exchilerator cfc previously but such a pain in the butt to clean. I'm all for keeping it simple.
Wow that's hot! Excellent information Brian! The design of that element is really cool. I like how it changes the rolling boil. Also really nice the option for a more inexpensive power source and certainly very tempting for an apartment brewer or someone with a smaller footprint brewery. Cheers!
Great video Brian, I just received the 15 gallon 4500w Slingblade for my Keggle since I just purchased a CUSS brewing chiller prior to going electric.. I guess Brewbuilt doesn’t take their quality control very seriously, this one has potting all over it even in the tri clamp seal area. Hope they take care of this really don’t wanna try and scrape it off in fear of damaging the coating on the element.
Great video, thanks for sharing! I’m using the therminator chiller...personally I like it...chills Fairly quick...interesting element...I’m using 5500 w ripple elements ...enjoyed watching this! Cheers!
Looks great! Nice videos as usual. One question.... do you have the video and audio reversed where you are talking about the 2. You say one and the other is showing. Cheers
I would love to see a complete build for either a HERMS it RIMS electric setup. I'm looking at expanding not sure what I should go with money is the biggest issue. All in one?
That's what I was thinking. When I was shopping for elements I looked real hard at the Blic BC but hated the fact they wanted that BA plug on the front of the kettles and the price was too high.
Yeah the boil coil is what I'm using in my HERMS system. I love them the SlingBlade is ULWD but the boil coil is SUPER LWD so there is a little difference there. The boil looks really similar though. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Back then I wanted to do that but didn't want to be the pioneer! I searched all of the net and nobody had done that yet, they had just come on the market. I also didn't like the hard-wired version with a janky homemade weatherproof box hanging off the side either. I decided to go with Bobby @brewhardware, his ripple 5500W w/ integrated 1.5 TC and weldless bulkhead. I do give them a wrap or two with 3M 33+ electric tape over the joint between the element and plug for peace of mind.
Nice info, and cool product Brian! In my experience, though it is interesting to see the local temp of element, for heating bulk solutions you typically want to measure the temp of the solution at a point AWAY from the element while ramping up temp all while circulating with pump to maintain a homogenous temp. My theory as to why this happens is because of the way PID controllers work by using a real-time statistical algorithm using 3 key factors (#1 the instantaneous error value from setpoint, #2 short-term history, and #3 long-term history of system response to energy input), if the probe is too close to the energy source (element in this case), the PID controller is now indirectly watching the close-coupled element temp, rather than looking at the bulk homogenous system temp. The probe is also now measuring heat from both direct liquid contact (via conduction), as well as direct IR (via radiation) from the element due to proximity. This also makes it harder for it to “ring down” to a smooth and correct rate to fire element (doesn’t matter if it’s proportional or PWM control). Small variations in pump speed (flow), and viscosity/density changes in wort will amplify this error as the wort changes over time due to concentration of sugars. Whether I use 1 or 2 x 5500w ripples in my boil kettle, my system will ring down fast (minimal undershoot/overshoot), and ends up heating a given volume FASTER and more accurately with the probe further from the element, as the PID is not being deceived by the proximity effect. When the solution starts to boil, I kill the recirc pump, and now convection drives the mixing, and I find the system is still less error prone than if I park the probe right next to the element for all of the same reasons. A helpful analogy is that it’s like cooking a steak… whether you are using a high temp as found in a grill, or using sous vide method (low temp), you know when the meat is cooked properly be measuring the meat temp, not the energy source temp. That’s my 2¢, and I welcome yours!
Hi Brian I have looked before but the gfci you talk about is in available. And there are no suggested replacements. There is another unit but it’s just for 120v
I'd really like to know if I could fit that in a Spike Flex Fermenter? That element has some promise. It sits out of the way rather nicely. Cheer Brian...I mean Brain.
I went to try to buy one last week (3-12-21) and they pulled them off the shelves again. Currently not available. I called and they did not know why so I went with a ripple from Brewhardware.
It figures. I just got my other element in the mail yesterday. I would have preferred to have the slingshot for my Jaded IC. I'm going to stick with what I have due to me not wanting to wait around for more shipments.
No I haven't, I'm sure it's cool though. Their stuff usually is. I have an SS rack like thing that I used when I did BIAB that will keep it off the element. I might try to rig up some sort of hanger at some point if I don't like my setup.
I LOOOVE the Slingblade element and would buy it in a heartbeat if they offered a 2" TC version. I actually bought one and a very thin 2" to 1.5" fitting and it just won't fit. Any idea if they're ever going to release a 2" TC version? Or if anyone else has a curved element? -Heck anyone who has an element with a NEMA plug directly on it with a 2" TC integrated? -I'd take even a normal fold back element with direct NEMA plug and 2" TC. Tired of wiring pigtails and elements in element guards.
Brian, thanks for the review. I was looking into getting one of these but they pulled them from the market back then. It appears they've fixed whatever problems they had. One question: which do you think would be easier to clean? I've had some brew days using my 5500W BrewHardware SS element where I get some caked on gunk that requires some rather aggressive cleaning using a Scotchbrite pad. It's a bit of a pain, particularly with trying to get the pad in between the four parts of the coil. It would seem as though the Slingblade might also be easier in this respect.
I think you are right. A tip for those situations if you want to make your cleaning easier. Bring enough water to cover the element by about an inch to a boil. Add about a quarter cup of PBW and then just let it sit overnight. In the morning it will be sparkly clean with virtually no scrubbing. That would go for either element.. 👍🍻
Not sure if this has already been asked, but has anyone compared these more “linear” element designs in comparison to the Boil Coil type design? Or is performance more based on overall wattage? Is a speedy boil of wort come at the sacrifice of possibly scorching wort? Thanks for the vid Brian👍
I have not compared these to a boil coil. I have 2 in my 3 vessel HERMS system. Wattage does have a lot to do with the speed. If you have a small amount of wort you could have some caramelization with the sling blade and ripple element. The boil coil has less of a chance due to the large amount of surface area it spreads the wattage over. How that helps! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers lol, thanks! I scrolled right on by it... I assumed it was at Brewhardware, and already found and ordered it. Bobby owes you a kickback.
Could not have done a better more in depth detailed review Brian. +1 Thumbs up and the "ogre" salute: ruclips.net/video/tZVdR19E5mU/видео.html Cheers Brian!
Good video! Im thinking about converting my keggles to electric, I noticed brewhardware.com has the ripple heating element with the tri clamp bulkhead together in a "kit" on sale. Now Ive bought some bad products from them before and just wanted to ask since you mentioned in the description box you're using the brewhardware tri clamp bullhead, how reliable is it and how easy to tighten is it? Thanks!
I went from ice to a DIY copper pipe immersion chiller and that served me well for years. I just recently upgraded to The Hydra from JaDeD, it's the one optimized for the kitchen sink as the source water as I'm an apartment brewer myself. I love the thing! Chills my 22 litre batches in just 10 minutes. The first time I used it, I though I had a leak in my pot because volume was dropping so fast from just the cooling shrinkage. I considered other options when I upgraded, like counter-flow and plate, but those bring with it extra cleaning issues and I'm all about simplifying the process myself. 10 minutes from boil to pitch is good enough for me.
A high power, apartment setup video would be great!
Thanks Paul!!
I would second that. Right now I'm using a Robobrew 35L on 120V because I'm in an apartment. However, I recently noticed my stove is on wheels and I can easily access the 240V plug and have considered using that in a future upgrade.
Great! Thanks for that feedback! 👍🍻
I’m an expert at big brewing in tiny appartment. Just finished my herms setup (in a wife friendly fashion). Check out fullmetalbrewery on IG. New setup with The Electric Brewery panel coming soon.
I would love to see this as well
The chiller I'm using is the brutus exchilerator. As they say...buy once cry once. It's "expensive", but well worth the price of admission. When you factor in time as the most expensive part of your day. Going from 30-60 minutes down to under 10 no matter the batch size is literally a day changer.
No doubt I have the smaller one and it works well!
I use a Dudadiesel 20 inch plate chiller, With camlock quick connects. Great video! Cheers 🍻
👍🍻
I would love to see your brewing system Brian, I’m currently renting a small space and am wanting to build a system. Thanks, I love your videos!
Thanks Adam! It will be coming soon. Waiting on a few things to come into stock.
I’m using a jaded chiller and love it. I start with a cheap copper chiller I found on Amazon. There is of course a huge difference
For sure!!
Great video, this is actually what I do, I have a 5500w 240v element that I run an extension cord from my dryer to my patio of 10/4 wire to be able to brew with 240v. It's been working wonderfully for me on a ripple style element. I have done about 15-20 brews with the setup and no issue. I have found an online calculator for voltage drop over the length of cable I am using as an extension cord plus the run from the panel to my laundry room, and I am only losing 5v (240v down to 235v) in theory, but a multimeter shows a full 120v on each leg so I am not all too worried about the loss. My ripple element looks just as it did the day I unboxed it.
Nice!! Sounds like it worked for you!
Obviously really late - but you'll only see a voltage drop when the current is flowing, if you just just stick the multimeter into the plug without the element on, there will be no voltage drop.
First was 25 liters brew in a bag, cooled in the tub with cold water, upgraded to homebuilt copper imersion chiller, before making my 3 kettle HERMS system with copper counter flow chiller.
Sounds kinda like my progression.
I would love a complete overview of your actual working system. You do so many great reviews of different stuff and your such a resource when I’m shopping around. But when you go to brew a beer on your own what’s the system.
The Anvil Foundry or my HERMS system.👍🍻
Definitely wanna see an how to build! Iv been looking at the sling blade units! May get a couple for backups... Thanks for the video Cheers
Definitely!! I'll have to get to work on it!! Lol
Brain, you're doing the lords work.
Haha!! Someone has to do it!
I started with ice bath then I graduated to all gain and bought an immersion chiller (cheap one) , I saved a lot of my money for a plate chiller used it for a few brews, I just never trusted my cleaning process of it sold it on ebay and went back to my immersion chiller, I did upgrade to a Jaded, never looked back.
Jaded is awesome!! 👍🍻
Good job on another informative video. Thank you for comparing the quality of boil compared other elements.
Thanks!
Great stuff Brian. It would be cool to see that full system. Sláinte!
Thanks! 👍🍻
Ive got 2 jaded immersion chillers depending on my system; either blichmann boil coil or anvil foundry. I have used an exchilerator cfc previously but such a pain in the butt to clean. I'm all for keeping it simple.
Yeah I used cfc for a long time. Immersion is just so much easier. 👍🍻
Another vote for the full system video.
Alright Cris!!
Wow that's hot! Excellent information Brian! The design of that element is really cool. I like how it changes the rolling boil. Also really nice the option for a more inexpensive power source and certainly very tempting for an apartment brewer or someone with a smaller footprint brewery. Cheers!
Definitely!! Opens up some option for sure! 👍🍻
Always something new! Thanks Brian.
Haha right!! 👍🍻
Thanks, Brian...just received my 4500 watt element the other day!
Nice!! What size system are you building?
Got (3) 15 gallon keggles powered by (3) Blichmann BrewCommanders. HLT and BOIL are 240v while my 120v MASH controller runs my homebuilt RIMS tube
@@shannonwells1960 nice!!
So timely! I have one in my cart I've been debating on checking out or not.
I think it's pretty impressive! 👍🍻
Actual cost of the sling blade is 3 to 4 times higher than an all stainless 5500 watt element on Amazon. Plus the 5500 watt is 50% higher wattage.
Might be true but what if you wanted to use an inline GFCI device? Can't do that with a 5500 watt element cost effectively. 👍🍻
Great information! Yes I think you should do a video on your system. Now I’m tempted to convert my kettle. Time to go search your other videos 😂
Haha thanks man!! 👍🍻
This is such a informative video! Thanks for putting this together!
Thanks SJ! 👍🍻
Great video Brian, I just received the 15 gallon 4500w Slingblade for my Keggle since I just purchased a CUSS brewing chiller prior to going electric.. I guess Brewbuilt doesn’t take their quality control very seriously, this one has potting all over it even in the tri clamp seal area. Hope they take care of this really don’t wanna try and scrape it off in fear of damaging the coating on the element.
Contact them and I'm sure they'll take care of it. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I have emailed them with photos so we will see, thanks.
@@deansymborski2167 let me know
Yisssss, I've been waiting for more info about this
Glad you found it helpful!
Really useful video thanks!
Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed! 👍🍻
Great video, thanks for sharing! I’m using the therminator chiller...personally I like it...chills Fairly quick...interesting element...I’m using 5500 w ripple elements ...enjoyed watching this! Cheers!
Thanks man!!
Great info on the elements. Cheers!
Thanks man!!
Nice review Brian!
Thanks! Gorgeous George!!
I'm happy with my Jaded Hydra.
Nice chiller! 👍🍻
Another great review!
Thanks John!
Looks great! Nice videos as usual.
One question.... do you have the video and audio reversed where you are talking about the 2. You say one and the other is showing.
Cheers
No if the opposite is showing that means the other one is in the kettle. The audio was done after all the testing.
I would love to see a complete build for either a HERMS it RIMS electric setup. I'm looking at expanding not sure what I should go with money is the biggest issue. All in one?
That's up next... all in one! Stay tuned!
Awesome video Brian seems like that’s a solid heating element! I wonder how it would compare to the Blichmann boil coil?
That's what I was thinking. When I was shopping for elements I looked real hard at the Blic BC but hated the fact they wanted that BA plug on the front of the kettles and the price was too high.
Yeah the boil coil is what I'm using in my HERMS system. I love them the SlingBlade is ULWD but the boil coil is SUPER LWD so there is a little difference there. The boil looks really similar though. 👍🍻
@@TheDuner68 I did a custom drill on my system (I drilled myself) and I put them in the rear..much better place for them IMO! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Back then I wanted to do that but didn't want to be the pioneer! I searched all of the net and nobody had done that yet, they had just come on the market. I also didn't like the hard-wired version with a janky homemade weatherproof box hanging off the side either. I decided to go with Bobby @brewhardware, his ripple 5500W w/ integrated 1.5 TC and weldless bulkhead. I do give them a wrap or two with 3M 33+ electric tape over the joint between the element and plug for peace of mind.
@@TheDuner68 heck yeah. That works!!
Nice info, and cool product Brian! In my experience, though it is interesting to see the local temp of element, for heating bulk solutions you typically want to measure the temp of the solution at a point AWAY from the element while ramping up temp all while circulating with pump to maintain a homogenous temp. My theory as to why this happens is because of the way PID controllers work by using a real-time statistical algorithm using 3 key factors (#1 the instantaneous error value from setpoint, #2 short-term history, and #3 long-term history of system response to energy input), if the probe is too close to the energy source (element in this case), the PID controller is now indirectly watching the close-coupled element temp, rather than looking at the bulk homogenous system temp. The probe is also now measuring heat from both direct liquid contact (via conduction), as well as direct IR (via radiation) from the element due to proximity. This also makes it harder for it to “ring down” to a smooth and correct rate to fire element (doesn’t matter if it’s proportional or PWM control). Small variations in pump speed (flow), and viscosity/density changes in wort will amplify this error as the wort changes over time due to concentration of sugars. Whether I use 1 or 2 x 5500w ripples in my boil kettle, my system will ring down fast (minimal undershoot/overshoot), and ends up heating a given volume FASTER and more accurately with the probe further from the element, as the PID is not being deceived by the proximity effect. When the solution starts to boil, I kill the recirc pump, and now convection drives the mixing, and I find the system is still less error prone than if I park the probe right next to the element for all of the same reasons. A helpful analogy is that it’s like cooking a steak… whether you are using a high temp as found in a grill, or using sous vide method (low temp), you know when the meat is cooked properly be measuring the meat temp, not the energy source temp. That’s my 2¢, and I welcome yours!
Hi Brian I have looked before but the gfci you talk about is in available. And there are no suggested replacements. There is another unit but it’s just for 120v
Try the link in the video. It was available this morning
I'd really like to know if I could fit that in a Spike Flex Fermenter? That element has some promise. It sits out of the way rather nicely. Cheer Brian...I mean Brain.
It won't 😔 someone already asked my I tried and it doesn't fit.. waahhhh
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Bummer.
Great video! Love that movie lol.
Haha how could I not put at least a little clip in?!? Lol 👍🍻
Currently rocking a couple ripple elements but the slingblade is on my radar should I need to replace them. Thanks for the video.
Yeah they were on mine too. I'm glad I got one in to test! 👍🍻
I went to try to buy one last week (3-12-21) and they pulled them off the shelves again. Currently not available. I called and they did not know why so I went with a ripple from Brewhardware.
Interesting.. all of them are showing in stock currently.
It figures. I just got my other element in the mail yesterday. I would have preferred to have the slingshot for my Jaded IC. I'm going to stick with what I have due to me not wanting to wait around for more shipments.
@@marccummings I hear you.. have you seen the lectric chair from jaded?
No I haven't, I'm sure it's cool though. Their stuff usually is. I have an SS rack like thing that I used when I did BIAB that will keep it off the element. I might try to rig up some sort of hanger at some point if I don't like my setup.
@@marccummings cool yeah it's a stand for the jaded chiller you can add into the kettle after boil to raise the chiller up off the element. 👍🍻
I LOOOVE the Slingblade element and would buy it in a heartbeat if they offered a 2" TC version. I actually bought one and a very thin 2" to 1.5" fitting and it just won't fit.
Any idea if they're ever going to release a 2" TC version? Or if anyone else has a curved element? -Heck anyone who has an element with a NEMA plug directly on it with a 2" TC integrated? -I'd take even a normal fold back element with direct NEMA plug and 2" TC. Tired of wiring pigtails and elements in element guards.
I don't know if they will release it that way. 👍🍻
Brian, thanks for the review. I was looking into getting one of these but they pulled them from the market back then. It appears they've fixed whatever problems they had. One question: which do you think would be easier to clean? I've had some brew days using my 5500W BrewHardware SS element where I get some caked on gunk that requires some rather aggressive cleaning using a Scotchbrite pad. It's a bit of a pain, particularly with trying to get the pad in between the four parts of the coil. It would seem as though the Slingblade might also be easier in this respect.
I think you are right. A tip for those situations if you want to make your cleaning easier. Bring enough water to cover the element by about an inch to a boil. Add about a quarter cup of PBW and then just let it sit overnight. In the morning it will be sparkly clean with virtually no scrubbing. That would go for either element.. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Great tip! I'll definitely be trying that out after my next doppelbock or Wee Heavy long boil brew day!
@@craigwalsh8116 happy to help!
Not sure if this has already been asked, but has anyone compared these more “linear” element designs in comparison to the Boil Coil type design? Or is performance more based on overall wattage? Is a speedy boil of wort come at the sacrifice of possibly scorching wort?
Thanks for the vid Brian👍
I have not compared these to a boil coil. I have 2 in my 3 vessel HERMS system. Wattage does have a lot to do with the speed. If you have a small amount of wort you could have some caramelization with the sling blade and ripple element. The boil coil has less of a chance due to the large amount of surface area it spreads the wattage over. How that helps! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thanks man!
👍🍻
Curious to know if you took both elements and straightened them out if there is any length different.
I did not. I wouldn't recommend straightening electric elements either. 👍🍻
Lol no, was wondering what the difference in surface area would be. I would guess the slingblade has more.
@@jodygallant2356 lol ok. I think you are probably right. 👍🍻
I wonder if I could use that Slingblade in my Clawhammer 120v?
mmmhhhmmm you sure can!! 👍🍻
Probably the cheapest way to upgrade from 120 V to 240 V If you use the adapter that I show in the video. And the Blichman Brew Commander.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I know Clawhammer says the controller will handle up to 1650 watt element so that’s interesting. Might be upgrading soon.
Some people call it a kaiser blade, m-hmm.
Haha! Couldn't help it!! 👍🍻
Source for the Weldless 1.5" TC?
It's in the description. 👍🤘
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers lol, thanks! I scrolled right on by it... I assumed it was at Brewhardware, and already found and ordered it. Bobby owes you a kickback.
Haha!! He's taken care of me!!👍🍻
Could not have done a better more in depth detailed review Brian.
+1 Thumbs up and the "ogre" salute:
ruclips.net/video/tZVdR19E5mU/видео.html
Cheers Brian!
Thanks man! 👍🍻
Good video! Im thinking about converting my keggles to electric, I noticed brewhardware.com has the ripple heating element with the tri clamp bulkhead together in a "kit" on sale.
Now Ive bought some bad products from them before and just wanted to ask since you mentioned in the description box you're using the brewhardware tri clamp bullhead, how reliable is it and how easy to tighten is it? Thanks!
It works very well. I put a bit if keg lube on the oring and it tightened up great. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thank you!
Welcome! 👍🍻