Another great video Nerijus. As far as I know there’s no one else on RUclips that puts out this kind of content. I was very intimidated a few years ago when I finally went fully active with a DSP, measuring and eq’ing and learning REW. Thanks to you now I’m really comfortable and confident in my tuning abilities. I change my tune and experiment all the time trying to get that last 10% out of my system. I hope these kind of videos will encourage others to not be afraid of tuning, but at the same time I hope it doesn’t hurt your remote tuning business. 😀
Very nice and packed with information. I thank you for doing this for us. Even though I know more about car audio than 99% of people I know, there are still so many details you showed in this video that I find I don't fully understand. I need to do some more reading and video watching 😊 especially on setting levels to match target curves. I don't know when it's too little and when it's too much. You seem to know it by instinct 😂
Not every install has to hack up an interior. I thought the install was pretty clean and well done, and the best part is it's all reversable when you sell the vehicle. I personally would have picked up a spare set of tweeter grills and maybe surface-flush mounted them and covered with grill cloth, but I don't think that would be a huge improvement.
@@chrishuyler3580 yes I agree on the low key and factory location install but some sacrifices are to be made for example I own a vw Atlas and it comes with 2 ways from factory has to make room for and extra 2.5 morel wide range in what it was factory location for the tweeter in doors and moved the focal tweeters to the mirror cover position... So if you want better some hacking is unavoidable.
Just on the tweeter.. Personally, I was not mad at that -12 crossover. It followed the low end very nicely. It seems like you’re not using smoothing? I feel a bit of smoothing helps keep a well, smoother sound. The correction is not as “coarse”. I especially avoid boosting any more narrow than 3ish. Relating to the smoothness again. *also less bands will come up. I would have ignored whatever that 6.5k dip was. Leave it alone. It is what it is. Not afraid to shelf up the high end tho.
You should seriously consider looking at the headunit heigh10 by stinger. It has optical out and it’s pretty close to the prices of Android units. Doesn’t offer as much flexibility but it’s definitely a solid reliable unit. I’ve had one for a couple years now and it’s awesome, just wish the resolution was a bit better.
@@cncgeneral no they are not. The stinger heigh10 is not just some Chinese rebranded stereo. It’s on the level of the major brands. Its build quality is much better than any Chinese one I’ve seen.
I’m installing 3 ways soon, would it be better if I put my mid in the dash in the factory location or custom mount it in the door with the tweeter and 6.5” driver?
It's always best to have the tweeter and midrange as close as possible and preferably on the same plane, take for instance near field bookshelf speakers they even at time overlap the two, so to make the sound come off as one.
DSP/amplifier do not have any gain structure. With a dedicated amplifier you can increase the gain if you did a lot of curs, but with the built in all in one option, you cannot do that.
Thanks for this Video it was very helpful. But I still have one question remaining. You often said with dsp/amps you have to bring down the channel gain so that the sum of eq and channel gain is not higher than 0db. But what if the input signal of the music is less than 0db? For example I like to listen to music with Spotify. If I have audio normalisation on normal Spotify plays tracks with -14db. If I have it off it plays music with -10 db. So I will never ever reach clipping. And to be honest why would someone want to play music with a 0db mastering ? I mean it is bloody loud at -10db already ?
@@RAW-CAt I got another question would you ever recommend boosting a valley e.g -7 fb at like 160 hz. I mean the energy is only lost at your listening position. But it is there a chance that the energy is still inside the vehicle ? So that you do not notice the dip ?
@@Niclas0299 yes, that is correct. It's especially bad for tweeters when you are boosting the very top end. For the driver it will.sound pleasant and flat, but for the passenger it might be unbearable.
Another great video Nerijus. As far as I know there’s no one else on RUclips that puts out this kind of content. I was very intimidated a few years ago when I finally went fully active with a DSP, measuring and eq’ing and learning REW. Thanks to you now I’m really comfortable and confident in my tuning abilities. I change my tune and experiment all the time trying to get that last 10% out of my system.
I hope these kind of videos will encourage others to not be afraid of tuning, but at the same time I hope it doesn’t hurt your remote tuning business. 😀
I really like this format. This would have saved me weeks(or more) of learning back in the day.
Haha, same here😂
U just explain stuff so well. Genius. Thanks man.
Very nice and packed with information. I thank you for doing this for us. Even though I know more about car audio than 99% of people I know, there are still so many details you showed in this video that I find I don't fully understand. I need to do some more reading and video watching 😊 especially on setting levels to match target curves. I don't know when it's too little and when it's too much. You seem to know it by instinct 😂
Another great tuning video... this helped me out a lot for my install
Nice video and informative.
good stuff
Awesome example of how not to install your gear.... Thanks for the inside scoop.
Not every install has to hack up an interior. I thought the install was pretty clean and well done, and the best part is it's all reversable when you sell the vehicle. I personally would have picked up a spare set of tweeter grills and maybe surface-flush mounted them and covered with grill cloth, but I don't think that would be a huge improvement.
@@chrishuyler3580 yes I agree on the low key and factory location install but some sacrifices are to be made for example I own a vw Atlas and it comes with 2 ways from factory has to make room for and extra 2.5 morel wide range in what it was factory location for the tweeter in doors and moved the focal tweeters to the mirror cover position... So if you want better some hacking is unavoidable.
Just on the tweeter.. Personally, I was not mad at that -12 crossover. It followed the low end very nicely.
It seems like you’re not using smoothing? I feel a bit of smoothing helps keep a well, smoother sound. The correction is not as “coarse”. I especially avoid boosting any more narrow than 3ish. Relating to the smoothness again. *also less bands will come up.
I would have ignored whatever that 6.5k dip was. Leave it alone. It is what it is. Not afraid to shelf up the high end tho.
Avec tout ces informations,je suis près à travailler sur mon système audio de voiture,merci 😊
Great, easy explanation! Thanks
You should seriously consider looking at the headunit heigh10 by stinger. It has optical out and it’s pretty close to the prices of Android units. Doesn’t offer as much flexibility but it’s definitely a solid reliable unit. I’ve had one for a couple years now and it’s awesome, just wish the resolution was a bit better.
They are just chinese units with some stinger branding, no better unfortunately
@@cncgeneral no they are not. The stinger heigh10 is not just some Chinese rebranded stereo. It’s on the level of the major brands. Its build quality is much better than any Chinese one I’ve seen.
I’m installing 3 ways soon, would it be better if I put my mid in the dash in the factory location or custom mount it in the door with the tweeter and 6.5” driver?
It's always best to have the tweeter and midrange as close as possible and preferably on the same plane, take for instance near field bookshelf speakers they even at time overlap the two, so to make the sound come off as one.
Mids in dash will have a lot of boost at the lower frequencies. Mids in doors will roll off soon and the stage will sound "low". I would use the dash.
What do you mean with: 'the guy has a build-in DSP amplifier (...) it doesn't really work"?
DSP/amplifier do not have any gain structure. With a dedicated amplifier you can increase the gain if you did a lot of curs, but with the built in all in one option, you cannot do that.
Thanks for this Video it was very helpful. But I still have one question remaining. You often said with dsp/amps you have to bring down the channel gain so that the sum of eq and channel gain is not higher than 0db. But what if the input signal of the music is less than 0db? For example I like to listen to music with Spotify. If I have audio normalisation on normal Spotify plays tracks with -14db. If I have it off it plays music with -10 db. So I will never ever reach clipping. And to be honest why would someone want to play music with a 0db mastering ? I mean it is bloody loud at -10db already ?
If you know the levels and you know what you are doing boosting is not an issue. A lot of my viewers are newbies🙃
@@RAW-CAt I got another question would you ever recommend boosting a valley e.g -7 fb at like 160 hz. I mean the energy is only lost at your listening position. But it is there a chance that the energy is still inside the vehicle ? So that you do not notice the dip ?
@@Niclas0299 yes, that is correct. It's especially bad for tweeters when you are boosting the very top end. For the driver it will.sound pleasant and flat, but for the passenger it might be unbearable.
Could you do a video on house curves?
You can find a lot of information in this video
ruclips.net/video/DK8RmZQZtu0/видео.html
@@RAW-CAt thanks
How do I find out about your remote tuning business? As informative as this video is, my work schedule dictates getting this kind of assistance.
Email rawcaraudiotuning@gmail.com
Rhahks