Thanks for your time on all these vids , seems like you and Peter pssound are the only people in the world who are willing to test every last thing and actually have a clue what there talking about 👍 I’m about to put a full 3 way utopia in my new car fully active just trying to decide if the middbass will be better to install in kicks or under seat in IB , due to the design of car kicks could be tricky . Thanks dude !
In kicks will be the best result, if location is possible to use. If not then underseat, but respons will drops around 150-200hz. The 3.5 can be used down to this range with a cross over that places acoustical crossover at 170hz +- with 100w RMS and be safe.
@@rjanflaten2402 yes I really do want them in kicks and that is the plan , the trouble with underseat is there’s a massive battery pack tray as it’s a new electric mg so even if I cut a hole , about a inch from the chassis is a the battery tray surface so … The IB cut out video was very useful aswell to give an idea of cutout size , this is my first ib set up . Have had enough of ratteling doors and cancellations !
@@Jordwm the battery location should be avoided yes, hopefully the MG is big enough that an IB kick would be possible. Utopia M 3 way with 8", has to use the floor on my own car as the kicks seems to be impossible on the vw/skoda mq35 chassis 😭
Great video, very informative. I wish we could get a better manufacturer solution for our midbass drivers like how mercedes is. Building elaborate door pods seems to be the only solution but it takes knack and knowledge plus time and then you have to make it look factory. Sound quality is very challenging
Stinger make the exact same silicone speaker baffles too, they extend further in the back I think than the blue ones you have like a funnel to keep water off the speakers that don't have rain sheild built in like aftermarket ones.
Great info, Im deadening my doors this weekend. New system install and my 3 way Mid Bass is HORRIBLE currently; Im overcompensating with more sub volume for lack of mid bass....but its still horrible...haha. the nice tight crisp mid bass is non existent almost...Definitely a must do for any system.
merry christmas guys,i fill my holes with a piece of metal with automotive silicone on it then either pop rivots or screws then deadener then ccf foam then haha everything,and i have no rattles im running 7 inch dayton audios,i had the 8 incher's but went to 7's but now im installing 8 inch peerless mid bass for my 3 way active set up,the only rattle i have at the moment and im so lucky is i have manual windows,and the hand knob that can spin around when rolling up the windows it rattles but easy fix,,,so lets see what the peerless 8 inch does haha.oh and in mine its a 05 blazer and right where the speaker goes,theres a metal bar that the glass slides down in,yep dead center of the speaker hole,how stupid,oh well,mdf and milkshake it like always
@@RAW-CAt heheee good point but my idea is if moving the midbass driver out so it is flush with the doorcard instead of behind it would have a positive effect Measuring without the doorcard would give an indication I'll try when the weather gets a bit warmer
..and a loss in other areas?.. ..and.. I didn't see a finished product, but please tell me that silly blue rubber thing isn't visible.. (no offense of course).😊
Yes, The difference is not as huge as people would expect. The biggest difference is in the higher frequencies. But the most change is in the "feeling" how the bass sounds. With more rigid mounting and deadener you have a tighter and more accurate bass, however that cannot be captured with RTA. Level is almost the same, but sound is different.
The results are measurement errors. You are not able to set the microphone exactly in the same way every time in nearfield. One measurement is not enough, that's why averaging is used in the car. There is too much noise in the measurement.
Bass waves are long, silicone and distance, do not can change speaker response in bass. High frequencies are short and silicone can change response. But for you is no matter because you use 3way, and woofer play only bass.
Measuring the bass is hard to do. Measurement noise is high. Check on your own. Take a single measurement of the same speaker 3 times and you will see minimal differences. When measuring home audio, depending on the size of the room, it is measured to about 500 Hz. In order to correctly measure the bass of a loudspeaker at home, the distance measurement is combined with the near-distance measurement, if there is no anechoic chamber.
Thanks for your time on all these vids , seems like you and Peter pssound are the only people in the world who are willing to test every last thing and actually have a clue what there talking about 👍 I’m about to put a full 3 way utopia in my new car fully active just trying to decide if the middbass will be better to install in kicks or under seat in IB , due to the design of car kicks could be tricky . Thanks dude !
In kicks will be the best result, if location is possible to use. If not then underseat, but respons will drops around 150-200hz. The 3.5 can be used down to this range with a cross over that places acoustical crossover at 170hz +- with 100w RMS and be safe.
@@rjanflaten2402 yes I really do want them in kicks and that is the plan , the trouble with underseat is there’s a massive battery pack tray as it’s a new electric mg so even if I cut a hole , about a inch from the chassis is a the battery tray surface so …
The IB cut out video was very useful aswell to give an idea of cutout size , this is my first ib set up . Have had enough of ratteling doors and cancellations !
@@Jordwm the battery location should be avoided yes, hopefully the MG is big enough that an IB kick would be possible. Utopia M 3 way with 8", has to use the floor on my own car as the kicks seems to be impossible on the vw/skoda mq35 chassis 😭
A handy trick I was taught was to use 3mm acrylic to seal the holes in the door and melt it into shape with a heat gun and then deadner over that
Great video, very informative. I wish we could get a better manufacturer solution for our midbass drivers like how mercedes is. Building elaborate door pods seems to be the only solution but it takes knack and knowledge plus time and then you have to make it look factory. Sound quality is very challenging
Stinger make the exact same silicone speaker baffles too, they extend further in the back I think than the blue ones you have like a funnel to keep water off the speakers that don't have rain sheild built in like aftermarket ones.
Nice video! Thanks for your work!
Another great objective videos man
Door treatment looks well done. I know it made a difference in my car
First time watching this channel with this vid. Already subscribed after a few minutes!
Haha, thank you, hope you will enjoy the rest of the content😉
Great info, Im deadening my doors this weekend. New system install and my 3 way Mid Bass is HORRIBLE currently; Im overcompensating with more sub volume for lack of mid bass....but its still horrible...haha. the nice tight crisp mid bass is non existent almost...Definitely a must do for any system.
wow... small upgrade but big difference...
Perfect for components, your loosing above 300-400 Hz! That’s a good crossover for a midrange to pick up!
I've got a large pack of different clips for my car model. And it seems like those white crapy ones are the only that I use as they are always broken
🔥🔥
merry christmas guys,i fill my holes with a piece of metal with automotive silicone on it then either pop rivots or screws then deadener then ccf foam then haha everything,and i have no rattles im running 7 inch dayton audios,i had the 8 incher's but went to 7's but now im installing 8 inch peerless mid bass for my 3 way active set up,the only rattle i have at the moment and im so lucky is i have manual windows,and the hand knob that can spin around when rolling up the windows it rattles but easy fix,,,so lets see what the peerless 8 inch does haha.oh and in mine its a 05 blazer and right where the speaker goes,theres a metal bar that the glass slides down in,yep dead center of the speaker hole,how stupid,oh well,mdf and milkshake it like always
Good good good
Can we get a link or information on where to get the silicone rings/baffles and ccf(closed cell foam)?
Silicone rings are from AliExpress. CCF is DodoMat brand available on Amazon in.the UK.
@@RAW-CAt Thank sir!
Will on-axis midbass have better frequency response around 400 hz
No, up to ~600Hz it does not matter.
Did you try to measure with and without the doorcard?
No, I havent, as don't really see the point. No one will drive without the door cards🤷🏻♂️
@@RAW-CAt heheee good point but my idea is if moving the midbass driver out so it is flush with the doorcard instead of behind it would have a positive effect
Measuring without the doorcard would give an indication
I'll try when the weather gets a bit warmer
Outer door skin was treated as well?
Wait..(I skipped around, so..) Are you saying ALL that work for just that amount of improvement?..
700hz bump? O....k...
..and a loss in other areas?..
..and.. I didn't see a finished product, but please tell me that silly blue rubber thing isn't visible.. (no offense of course).😊
Yes, The difference is not as huge as people would expect. The biggest difference is in the higher frequencies. But the most change is in the "feeling" how the bass sounds. With more rigid mounting and deadener you have a tighter and more accurate bass, however that cannot be captured with RTA. Level is almost the same, but sound is different.
The results are measurement errors. You are not able to set the microphone exactly in the same way every time in nearfield. One measurement is not enough, that's why averaging is used in the car. There is too much noise in the measurement.
probably a screwdriver he forgot laying on the passenger seat causing the 10db difference
Bass waves are long, silicone and distance, do not can change speaker response in bass. High frequencies are short and silicone can change response. But for you is no matter because you use 3way, and woofer play only bass.
Measuring the bass is hard to do. Measurement noise is high. Check on your own. Take a single measurement of the same speaker 3 times and you will see minimal differences. When measuring home audio, depending on the size of the room, it is measured to about 500 Hz. In order to correctly measure the bass of a loudspeaker at home, the distance measurement is combined with the near-distance measurement, if there is no anechoic chamber.
Pssound low cost🤪😜🧐🧐
Hi Facebook Messenger? I want to send you an interesting video on how to measure with the Rew program