How to texture a ceiling with a hopper
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- Опубликовано: 27 янв 2025
- This is the final of a 3 part series starting with scraping, then priming and finally texturing a ceiling. Check out my RUclips channel for more DIY videos. I have every step of fully renovating this condo. Enjoy!
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Man I don't understand all the thumbs down. I appreciate any instructional video that at least contains a couple good tips. You reminded me of a few...I've textured before and the ceilings are not easy.
Easy, thumbs down because the video does not show even coverage (i can still see the joints) so the primer did nothong to hide them then the spray seems to just be getting started. Then it just ends without showing preferably a closeup of the finished work.
Explain the loading process and nosel adjustment come on those are the main little details
So what did it look like when you finished?
lol he did the preparation all wrong but he did not care because it's his own house hahaha I love that
Mark, why didn't you show the end result?
because it looks horrible. He does not know what he is doing, Im a drywall contractor and I cringed the whole way thru his technic ect, lol
@@askandymoser Cause it was terrible, and everything went wrong.
He didnt finish. The joints are still clearly visible. It also seems he underestimated and ran out of it so he had to go buy more
Nice effort on the plastic drop sheets! Lol
Texture should be thin, like pancake batter, no priming necessary, but you must prime after texturing. Learn to spray consistently without feathering the trigger, start in middle of ceiling and work toward the edges. I have never seen anyone go in circles except you, this is after 30+ years. Air pressure should be 25 to 30 psi with a 6.5 cfm minimum capability. Tip size is critical for texture size. Still, nice video to explain the basics to people who have no experience.
Good tips. Most guns have a trigger adjustment so you don't have to feather.
Tom bryan I textured before priming. It was a disaster. When I primed I had 1 little spot I had to touch up where the paint didn't stick. The next day I applied the ceiling paint. Looked good when I finished. The next day some 10% of the paint had fallen down. Scraped another 10% off looking for loose paint. Where it fell off, the drywall is perfectly clean, looks like new. All 3 layers fell off together. Now I'm priming the bare spots and then will retexture trying to get it all to match. Prime first!!
Thanks to explanation for psi..what about the knob at the side and the one at the back of gun..you should leave it on a max ...Thanks.
Can you use a rooler to do the popcorn snow on the ceiling?
My ceiling was done with a loop roller and it looked like sharp, pointy shit. It was painted on in one direction like with regular paint and the joints really stuck out.
My husband and I are about to embark on a ceiling-texture adventure this weekend and this video had some great tips! Could you tell us what size air compressor you used? We were told at HD that we should go no smaller than a 10 gal. Also, did you use it to paint? Thanks so much!
it does not take much power. Inot the past I used to use the cheap Porter Cable small pancake compressor but have since upgraded. I don't recall the size but you should not worry.
very nice video. so now I can do my own my basement ceiling.
from where can I find the hopper, does home depot or lowes carry them.
thanks for sharing
Home Depot sells the hopper in the video for $100. You could rent it from HD but will not save much. Make sure to clean very well after use
Mark Jauregui Home Depot rents it for $13 for 4 hours
Just buy one from harbor freight and clean it out after use. You can also google these or look on ebay for a cheap one or simply make your own out of sheetmetal from the junkpile and a blower nozzle. It wont be pretty but who cares? Nobody will see it anyways.
After my last home I will never ever have this on my ceilings again, when it begins to get dusty it's difficult to keep clean and aged paint cal fall off as paint dust over good furniture causing yet another annoyance.
What are the specs on the compressor and hopper?
That compressor is way too small.
@@SOLDOZER you're too small
northern tools and harbor freight havea pretty damn good hopper for $25.00 works awesome if you clean it up good after each use. Its really about the only tool that they sell that has lasted for more than a few uses.without breaking.
I have sprayed aprox 1200 sq feet with it, still have about 600 more to go and that will probably be it. never use it again.so its a throw away tool in my opinion or give it away to someone who needs it.
also I just use regular drywall mud, $12.00 for 5 gallon , scoop about half of mud out and put it in another container add aprox a gallon or less of water, to a consistency of pancake mix, my very first time ever texturing and it looks awesome . like some professional did it walls and ceiling. people that come over cant believe I did it. ez ez if you practice on cardboard or extra pieces of drywall first .to get settings correct.
+Alan Rush Good tip. Most people only use it once anyway so good call. Thanks!
Do i have to prime if im spraying this over existing paint?
I'd say not. The purpose of priming it to put something over the paper and mud; you already have that with your paint so you should just go over it.
Hi can i spray texture over top of old texture? Should i sand old texture flat first? Thxs
Ocanadakiter sorry but I'd say no. you typically must remove a texture to apply a new one. You can scrape ceilings, walls are typically floated over with a skim coat. sanding is not the process
Mark Jauregui Thanks i appreciate it i mostly do just mud and tape but have a lil job with texture.Got to learn it one day😂
Where 's your respirator and eye protection....???
Mix that shit thick. Trust me
Prime bare paper. Mix primer with texture. Done.
You don't have to prime, that is a waste of time and effort. I am journeyman painter CCL #510XXX c-33
Have you noticed paint sticks to EVERYTHING?
+Jimmy Michaels You can debate the merits of priming before painting a wall with a new color but priming is critical when applying texture; it has nothing to do with paint sticking. The main reason you must prime is that the mud that shoots to the ceiling will soak in to the paper of the sheetrock but not the taped mudded areas. Have you ever seen a ceiling where you can still see the lines of the tape joints, they skipped priming.
Based on your "soaking" theory, anytime you mud a seam over drywall tape you would be able to see the tape line because it would soak into the drywall and not the tape. First, drywall tape is basically the same thing as the outer paper layer on drywall, so if you do have soaking, it will soak pretty evenly. Second, if the tape is mudded and sanded as it should be, the texture shouldn't ever go directly onto drywall tape. Third, the texture starts drying instantly (quicker than a layer of mud since it is spread out in small clumps) and shouldn't really soak into anything--at least not enough to be able to see. If you are doing knockdown, for example, and have ever waited more than 15 minutes or so, the texture is already clumpy and dry. Finally, beyond the theory, I have primed first and then not primed and can't tell the difference. I agree with Jimmy Michaels that priming first is a waste of time. That being said, it won't hurt anything, it will just take a bit of extra time and $. The effect you are describing where you can see tape lines is from a poor mudding/sanding job before the texture is sprayed.
He is right. I only did one room so I am no expert but I didn't prime or anything before hand. I just put up the drywall, did the mud and tape, sanded it, then textured it. Afterwards when the texture was dry I primed the wall and painted it. It looked perfect like a pro did the work. Of course my dad helped a lot which is why it looked professional. But priming it before texture is not necessary at all.
@ T can I ask you a question please, why do you say have to prime ceiling before you texture?
What advantage do you feel you are gaining by doing this?
So you painted after instead of before?
To all the people saying you don't need to prime, please get off. Yes you do need to prime otherwise you will see it under the texture unless you lay it on so thick in which case it will look like garbage. Priming it before hand is not so much about getting the texture to stick, it's about the look. 99.9 percent of people want white on white, (texture over white paint). Some people actually paint it a different color, they will have their choice of color, then the texture over top, so to anyone saying you don't need to prime first, I shake my head at you, you will have some places where it is white on white(texture on top of drywall mud) and some places where it is white on gray(texture on drywall paper) Then we have the person saying it needs to be primed after texture is on. Please do not listen to that. Avoid priming or painting any ceiling texture at all costs. As soon as you paint or prime it, you make it about 1000 times harder to remove if you ever decide change it down the road. It will literally turn one of the easiest jobs into one of the hardest. Now, for the person who made the video, do you know what is alot easier than going along the walls after with a wet sponge and cleaning up all that mess? Taping the plastic all the way up to the ceiling...
I’m not sure why they say to prime but I’m sure there is a reason. My homak ceiling texture box says to prime. At the same time when the houses are built there is no primer on first. Everyone in my houses are raw Sheetrock under it. I also built a room at a previous house and the guy I paid to spray it came out and sprayed right over the raw sheet rock without issue. It will also appear not fully covered at first but as it dried it spread out more and had full coverage once it was dry. So I’m not sure which is better and not dying your wrong I’m just curious with the two differences?I’m sure the primer does help it adhere but maybe it helps with not absorbing into the Sheetrock or something.
@@whatfreedom7 Any new drywall should be sealed so at the very least it should have primer on it if they don't want to use a specific texture undercoat/ which has sealing properties as well. I'm sure the texture undercoat helps it adhere but like, it's gonna stick either way. It might have the potential to not stick well to really dusty mud that was freshly sanded, if you know what I mean. But even still, it would stick. For me it's mainly about two important things, sealing the drywall after it's been mudded, and having a consistent color under the texture. I use texture undercoat because I like the shade of white that it dries to and it dries really porous so the mud grabs it nice and it soaks up the water faster so if you're doing knockdowns you can knock it down sooner. Also just for the plain fact that it has texture undercoat written on the pail, it must have some properties that make it an undercoat specific product. So based on that and the fact that I like it, that's what I go with. But back to the second reason, the consistent color under the texture. If you don't prime/undercoat you will see the areas under the texture where it's white (drywall mud) and areas where it's grey-ish (drywall paper) basically you will see the contrast between the mud and drywall itself. The texture isnt completely coating the ceiling so it's not going to hide all that. Not sure if I'm making sense, but anyways hopefully it does.
@@shevinsacrey5862 it’s always better to take the extra step at least so you don’t have to go back and do it over. If you didn’t prime it and didn’t get full coverage then your in a bad position because you really don’t want to paint over it. I’m just doing research attempting to spray a repair area on my ceiling but have no clue what size tip to use but I think I will prime that area just to be safe. I have a 3/16”1/4”,and a 5/16”. I may start on the 1/4” and see how it looks on a test piece first.
@@whatfreedom7 what Are you using to spray the texture?
@@shevinsacrey5862 I have one of the harbor freight texture spray guns.
I'm not sure this guy knows what he is doing. I also don't think you need 2 coats of primer before you texture since you have to prime after you texture. Plus why not tape your plastic up to the ceiling. You'll use just as much tape as he did here.
Boom roasted!!!
You definitely have to prime before texturing or the texture product will not bond. Causing chips in the future.
U guys always talk like we’re all experts
Just use joint compound. Cheaper, less messy.
Thanks for the advice captain half-ass
Seems pointless to wave the hopper gun around. The spray patter is round and keeps pretty consistent. That’s like waving a paint spray gun around. You are just creating more overspray and fallout. Smooth motions create consistent patterns 👍
If you don't, it will look streaky, you can see the lines, rotating in circles blends it well
Then something isn’t right. I’ve been spraying texture over 20 years now. The only time I see people waving hoppers is on RUclips.
@@drywallmike0819 because it looks horrible. He does not know what he is doing, Im a drywall contractor and I cringed the whole way thru his technic ect, lol
Mark has no clue what he's doing.
First time I've ever seen a hopper in circles. That'd definitely make it uneven. Imagine painting a car going in circles with the paint gun.
So much noise. Killed so many peoples hearing. Bad video