I honestly would like to see more videos like this where it's someone who is just learning. I love watching the professionals, but I can learn just as much from other beginners.
I'm gonna subscribe to your channel becuz I appreciate your honesty and willing to learn. As far as your combination of 3D 1 and Euro fiber, yes, it's a great combination. Used it many times. U would have been fine to make several more passes as 3D has a long work time. What u do need is more pads. For example, I have a Mazda6 GT, basically the same size as the Honda you're doing. Last week I decided to do my car instead of everyone else's cars. I used 10 pads on it. I didn't use 3D tho. Change your pads, you'll get a clean cut. Work the 3D more. It really is an excellent combination. Always remember that no 2 vehicles are the same. Pay attention to what you're doing always. I learned how to wet sand and compound working in a body shop with a rotary 30yrs ago. Don't compare yourself to others. You WILL make mistakes, just don't make them SEVERE mistakes and u will learn what works for u. Good luck with your coating
I've used that combo as a starting point for paint corrections for three years now. Last night was my first real test of 3D ONE with the Rupes Yellow Wool pads. Because wool works better for me on painted plastics, I'll probably be switching to the Rupes line of DA pads - wool, or foam. At work my boss did some touch up on a Porsche bumper he was going to install paint protection film on. I tried 3D ONE and then ACA500 on Lake Country microfiber pads. It almost had no effect. I grabbed one of those Adams wool "one step" (they're more of a heavy cut because they hazed the hell out of that paint!). With that pad and 3D ONE I was able to remove all the sanding marks in two attempts. If I had my Rupes yellow wool pad that probably would have done the job too. In those situations where I need heavier cut I'm using 3D ACA500. Great cut and low dust. For those vehicles that are difficult to finish with 3D ONE I'll use 3D AAT502. Try and keep your inventory of different polishes low, and learn the one you like most as thoroughly as possible. At work I have those LC microfiber cutting pads and HDO Orange polishing pads, 3D ONE and ACA500. For the past couple years they have been able to tackle every job (except heavy correction on painted plastics, which again is why Im switching to wool) satisfactorily. The tools they provide are the Adams Swirl Killer 15 and Mini. At home I have a Rupes Nano, Mini, Duetto, and 21. But I usually end up just using my Porter Cable 7424xp. I started using the PC exactly ten years ago.
As a beginner or rookie, 3d One with the Uro 5050 pad is a good starting point. Once you get past that you realize there is nothing like compound and a wool or microfiber pad then finishing it off with polish.
I recently ran urofiber 50/50 + 3d one followed up with carpro gloss pad + essence on my whole car with a griots G9 + 5" plate, then coated with 2x cquartz uk 3.0 coats, and man did it come out great on my white vehicle. I'm just an amateur guy in my garage who saved $1000+ compared to taking it to a shop. So easy to clean now, water just slides off it
@@BlueWaveDetailing honestly the essence + gloss pad didn't make a major aesthetic difference over just the urofiber + 3d one, especially on my white vehicle, but I feel like it did provide a good base layer for the cquartz to bond to. The car came out incredibly slick and hopefully it lasts a good 2 years here in Louisiana.
@@ardoin_337 I’m trying to figure out how these professional shops do 2 step polishing and get 95-99 percent of the scratches out!! Or do they just make it look like that?? Idk! Lol. I want to get professionally trained at a detailing school in California and see how it gets done and get trained!
Remember, paint should only be cut once. Even learn to use a rotary on the lowest setting with medium wool like a LC Purple with 3D One. Benefit of 3D One is even if its a 2 step, you dont wipe off after the cutting step. You just use a different polishing pad and few drops polish over it. You only wipe once finished polishing. 3D is aimed towards body shops so aiming to get the work done quicker. No issue with the waterless, just maybe try a Clay mitt/cloth or sponge to clean up the paint better. Well done.
@@Zpiet820 This is actually how it is meant to be used. Use a cutting pad then switch to a polishing pad without wiping off the previous residue. There are a few products like this but 3D market it the best
Really impressive demonstration, I was interested in buying some 3d one , after watching I am going to get a bottle and pair up with the Uro fibre pad , keep up the good work 🇬🇧
That’s all of the exact same stuff I use except for the pads. I was using the rupes yellow foam pad. I’m gonna order one of those uro-fiber pads today and try that!
Brother you still have a lot to learn and whole lot to “unlearn”😂. Keep at it. Stop listening to every person on RUclips. You’re not ready to even attempt a full blown ceramic or Graphene product yet. You’ll never go wrong using 3D One and a UroFiber pad on most clearcoats. However not all clearcoats will react as well to that combo. Best advice is practice different pads, polishes. Plus you’re not likely to get an everyday driven car to a show car flawless finish. Good luck and keep going.
This is why I’m posting on RUclips! Showing people what I know and don’t know. And here to Allways learn and get advice from people! This was my first time using those pads and 1 step polish. I test on my own vehicles. I did a 2 step polish on one of my cars using adams polishes and chemical guys pads and Maguire’s compound and polish which worked perfect for the paint and vehicle I did it on. 11 months later the ceramic coating is still on and working perfectly!
As far as your attempts to keep moving forward and overcoming the learning curve, you will be quite proficient the more you do your own detailing. I did not see you clay bar, nor use a contaminant remover, like “Iron x”. The scratches left behind could be residual gritty crap. Great job! Keep charging forward.
I am curious to know if you happened to take a clear coat reading before or after the correction? I appreciate the honesty in you video. We all are learning, thank you for sharing this video.
I'd like to hear how your progress in becoming a master detail is going. It is clear your highly interested in becoming proficient and you're well on your way. Got to check that clear coat fam. get a gauge and use it on every car, every panel. Occasionally I'll come across panels in the 80s and I'm not sure if even the Euro fiber 50/50 is a good choice on that
you don't need a heaver cut, da's are just junk, with my rotary I use 1 med rupes cutting pad with 3d-one and it finishes down to a perfect deep shine on every car. if the clear is really hard it takes just a tad bit longer but always finishes down glossy as hell with no holograms. -15 years auto body and paint
Jump on some detailing channels and learn how many passes, machine speed, hand speed etc. Youll get there. To be honest, practising on friends and family cars will give you a lot of knowledge and save you $2500. You also should tape up a few sections of the hood and use different polish and pad combos to see which one works best.
4 step ? Bro at that point just re paint the car most jobs u only need 1 and 2 step w the right pad setup and 3 step for spot wet sanding now a days clear coats are so thin gotta b careful w those more aggressive steps
It's a erou pad 50/50 pad dude doubt ur very good it if don't know ur stuff I do it for my self and my family 7f charge 2500 to do ceramic coating ur going to hungry
I said multiple times in the video I have never done a full vehicle polish and I am new! I’ve detailed for 3 years and just now getting into paint corrections! Abe where I live the avg price for paint corrections are 1500-2500 obviously depending on size and condition of vehicle!
It's called "Uro-Fiber". Nowhere in Buff and Shine's literature does it say "50/50". What's that about knowing your shit? I know a lot of guys like yourself who make a lot of money and have no idea what they're doing or working with.
I honestly would like to see more videos like this where it's someone who is just learning. I love watching the professionals, but I can learn just as much from other beginners.
Totally agree! I love watching detailing videos! Specially newer people and younger entrepreneurs!
I'm gonna subscribe to your channel becuz I appreciate your honesty and willing to learn. As far as your combination of 3D 1 and Euro fiber, yes, it's a great combination. Used it many times. U would have been fine to make several more passes as 3D has a long work time. What u do need is more pads. For example, I have a Mazda6 GT, basically the same size as the Honda you're doing. Last week I decided to do my car instead of everyone else's cars. I used 10 pads on it. I didn't use 3D tho. Change your pads, you'll get a clean cut. Work the 3D more. It really is an excellent combination. Always remember that no 2 vehicles are the same. Pay attention to what you're doing always. I learned how to wet sand and compound working in a body shop with a rotary 30yrs ago. Don't compare yourself to others. You WILL make mistakes, just don't make them SEVERE mistakes and u will learn what works for u. Good luck with your coating
I've used that combo as a starting point for paint corrections for three years now.
Last night was my first real test of 3D ONE with the Rupes Yellow Wool pads. Because wool works better for me on painted plastics, I'll probably be switching to the Rupes line of DA pads - wool, or foam.
At work my boss did some touch up on a Porsche bumper he was going to install paint protection film on. I tried 3D ONE and then ACA500 on Lake Country microfiber pads. It almost had no effect. I grabbed one of those Adams wool "one step" (they're more of a heavy cut because they hazed the hell out of that paint!).
With that pad and 3D ONE I was able to remove all the sanding marks in two attempts. If I had my Rupes yellow wool pad that probably would have done the job too.
In those situations where I need heavier cut I'm using 3D ACA500. Great cut and low dust. For those vehicles that are difficult to finish with 3D ONE I'll use 3D AAT502.
Try and keep your inventory of different polishes low, and learn the one you like most as thoroughly as possible. At work I have those LC microfiber cutting pads and HDO Orange polishing pads, 3D ONE and ACA500. For the past couple years they have been able to tackle every job (except heavy correction on painted plastics, which again is why Im switching to wool) satisfactorily. The tools they provide are the Adams Swirl Killer 15 and Mini. At home I have a Rupes Nano, Mini, Duetto, and 21. But I usually end up just using my Porter Cable 7424xp. I started using the PC exactly ten years ago.
As a beginner or rookie, 3d One with the Uro 5050 pad is a good starting point. Once you get past that you realize there is nothing like compound and a wool or microfiber pad then finishing it off with polish.
I learned this from Brian at Apex Detail. It works!!! Liked and Subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
I recently ran urofiber 50/50 + 3d one followed up with carpro gloss pad + essence on my whole car with a griots G9 + 5" plate, then coated with 2x cquartz uk 3.0 coats, and man did it come out great on my white vehicle. I'm just an amateur guy in my garage who saved $1000+ compared to taking it to a shop. So easy to clean now, water just slides off it
I’m still trying to find the best process and equipment to use! I will definitely try this out! Thank you for sharing!!!
@@BlueWaveDetailing honestly the essence + gloss pad didn't make a major aesthetic difference over just the urofiber + 3d one, especially on my white vehicle, but I feel like it did provide a good base layer for the cquartz to bond to. The car came out incredibly slick and hopefully it lasts a good 2 years here in Louisiana.
@@ardoin_337 I’m trying to figure out how these professional shops do 2 step polishing and get 95-99 percent of the scratches out!! Or do they just make it look like that?? Idk! Lol. I want to get professionally trained at a detailing school in California and see how it gets done and get trained!
Remember, paint should only be cut once. Even learn to use a rotary on the lowest setting with medium wool like a LC Purple with 3D One. Benefit of 3D One is even if its a 2 step, you dont wipe off after the cutting step. You just use a different polishing pad and few drops polish over it. You only wipe once finished polishing. 3D is aimed towards body shops so aiming to get the work done quicker. No issue with the waterless, just maybe try a Clay mitt/cloth or sponge to clean up the paint better. Well done.
Curious if 3d one with different pads doing a two step can achieve the same result as traditional two steps using compound polish separately?
@@Zpiet820 This is actually how it is meant to be used. Use a cutting pad then switch to a polishing pad without wiping off the previous residue. There are a few products like this but 3D market it the best
Best thing ever ceramic coating that’s where I make all my money I don’t do detailing anymore👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
So you only ceramic coat cars that are already corrected?
wow, never seen anyone clean a bonnet like that before.
Take a shot every times he says "Umm" you would be drunk in the first 2 minutes. Lol, no offense.
This is something that people need to be told to learn. Hopefully he listens back. Learn to lose your fillers.
Practice is key. Good luck.
I just did my first using Turtle Wax black polish and it turned out amazing. Now I ordered this for doing a friends car!
Really impressive demonstration, I was interested in buying some 3d one , after watching I am going to get a bottle and pair up with the Uro fibre pad , keep up the good work 🇬🇧
You are well on your way to be a great detailer, always follow your intuition and gut feelings, you will be on the correct path always!!!!!
That’s all of the exact same stuff I use except for the pads. I was using the rupes yellow foam pad. I’m gonna order one of those uro-fiber pads today and try that!
a good practice is to prime the pad first.
Brother you still have a lot to learn and whole lot to “unlearn”😂. Keep at it. Stop listening to every person on RUclips. You’re not ready to even attempt a full blown ceramic or Graphene product yet. You’ll never go wrong using 3D One and a UroFiber pad on most clearcoats. However not all clearcoats will react as well to that combo. Best advice is practice different pads, polishes. Plus you’re not likely to get an everyday driven car to a show car flawless finish. Good luck and keep going.
This is why I’m posting on RUclips! Showing people what I know and don’t know. And here to Allways learn and get advice from people! This was my first time using those pads and 1 step polish. I test on my own vehicles. I did a 2 step polish on one of my cars using adams polishes and chemical guys pads and Maguire’s compound and polish which worked perfect for the paint and vehicle I did it on. 11 months later the ceramic coating is still on and working perfectly!
As far as your attempts to keep moving forward and overcoming the learning curve, you will be quite proficient the more you do your own detailing. I did not see you clay bar, nor use a contaminant remover, like “Iron x”. The scratches left behind could be residual gritty crap. Great job! Keep charging forward.
I enjoyed your video. Keep at it.👍
Don't spray your pad with detail spray. It has fillers. Also, need to clay and decontaminate the area prior.
Considering top pro detailers spray their pads
I am curious to know if you happened to take a clear coat reading before or after the correction? I appreciate the honesty in you video. We all are learning, thank you for sharing this video.
I did not! With it being my vehicle and it being a 2020 I wasn’t really worried about the thickness/clear coat!
I'd like to hear how your progress in becoming a master detail is going. It is clear your highly interested in becoming proficient and you're well on your way.
Got to check that clear coat fam. get a gauge and use it on every car, every panel. Occasionally I'll come across panels in the 80s and I'm not sure if even the Euro fiber 50/50 is a good choice on that
you don't need a heaver cut, da's are just junk, with my rotary I use 1 med rupes cutting pad with 3d-one and it finishes down to a perfect deep shine on every car. if the clear is really hard it takes just a tad bit longer but always finishes down glossy as hell with no holograms.
-15 years auto body and paint
Jump on some detailing channels and learn how many passes, machine speed, hand speed etc. Youll get there. To be honest, practising on friends and family cars will give you a lot of knowledge and save you $2500. You also should tape up a few sections of the hood and use different polish and pad combos to see which one works best.
I' d recommend a test hood to practice on. Even after doing this for many years, I still like to beat up a scrap panel and polish it out.
Keep up keeping up, one step will never do a good job like 2,3,4 step polishing but at least iz gives shine 😀
4 step ? Bro at that point just re paint the car most jobs u only need 1 and 2 step w the right pad setup and 3 step for spot wet sanding now a days clear coats are so thin gotta b careful w those more aggressive steps
Looks good but I see hazung go 8ver it a with a polishing pad and wax of some kind
That Uro-Fiber is a great cutter, and thus may need to be chased with foam in my experience too.
E moving to fast dude slow it diwn
Um can’t watch.
You’re making a video about something you do t even know the name of !
2x2 area is better. Music and better editing recommended😮 Won't Subscribe or recommend. Best wishes😊
No music!
It's cliché.
Especially if it's that dubstep shit.
It's a erou pad 50/50 pad dude doubt ur very good it if don't know ur stuff I do it for my self and my family 7f charge 2500 to do ceramic coating ur going to hungry
I said multiple times in the video I have never done a full vehicle polish and I am new! I’ve detailed for 3 years and just now getting into paint corrections! Abe where I live the avg price for paint corrections are 1500-2500 obviously depending on size and condition of vehicle!
Bro you are doing great. Keep learning as much as you can.
It's called "Uro-Fiber". Nowhere in Buff and Shine's literature does it say "50/50".
What's that about knowing your shit?
I know a lot of guys like yourself who make a lot of money and have no idea what they're doing or working with.