Being a retired manufacturing engineer, and in my early days an ultra precision machinist, I am always aware of thread pitch and how it might effect my process. In the case of Dillon die sets on yours (and mine) 550b, the threads per inch on the dies is 14. So 14 threads per inch gives you a pitch of .0714 thread to thread. So every complete revolution of a die in the block will advance the die that amount in depth. It makes it easy to calculate how much to move the die when setting overall length. Also, since there are 6 flats on a lock ring, each turn of the die from one flat to the next flat is about .012 of an inch (actually .0119). For instance, if you seat a bullet and your overall length when measured is too long, say .083 too long, you would turn your die one complete Rev and one more flat. Or 7 flats if you want to count that way. Of course that is assuming your lock ring is moving freely with the die.
This is likely one of the best comments on the web. Very helpful. If I would have thought about this I may have figured that out, but greatly appreciate not straining my brain. 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿. Any other tips like this would be helpful.
I know most all reloading dies and presses are set up on Coarse Threads but it would benefit us greatly in making minute adjustments if someone would make a system with FINE threads...in my opinion .
I do not know why you do not have a larger audience because compare your explanation to other youtubers with a larger audience you explain reloading on a better scale especially using the Dillon which I do have. Keep it up.
@@SquatchReloaded I am an avid yet rookie reloader and have traversed the whole internet from the moment I started researching reloading 2 years ago to now. You have a way of teaching other youtubers including the vastly more popular ones a more detailed and unconfusing set up. The Dillon has not been very user friendly, quite complicated for us startups LOL, but listening to your detailed explanation allowed me to make detailed changes on my setup. Thank you :-)
Man!, you've made some excellent videos on the 550. Since I started reloading, some 45 years ago, I've used red Hornady presses (single and progressive - with all its moving parts). I especially dislike the little spring that wraps around the shell plate and holds the rounds in, it's always breaking. Well, I remembered that my brother-in-law has a 550 and called him to see how he liked it. He said it is still boxed and never been used and told me to come get it - to get it out of his way. I liked the way the 550 flairs the top of a case within the powder die. With the Hornady, it had a separate die the did that. I'm be running up to his house tomorrow and pick it up. I'll be watching you tutorials a few more times.
@@123logger Thanks brother , if things get any worse Down Under I will seriously consider moving to the Land of the Free , and the Home of the Brave . Cheers 🍻
Thank you. My husband helps me with our Dillon but he is not very strong in the teaching department. You have help me understand more on what I am doing and about our machine.
Really enjoyed this series. I run the 550b and want to set it up for 9mm. I've always used the Dillon dies in all my other calibers but due to the plandimic Dillon has a crazy back order time on dies. Just wondering if you had a good go to die set you would recommend. Thanks.
I have been reloading for about 20 years. I enjoyed your video. have you ever used the EGW chamber checkers (seven slots) sold by Dillon. when checking the crimp and length find them much more usable than a one off (Wilson, Lee) single chamber checker. Just saying.
The EGW chamber checkers are made to SAAMI “mimimun” specs according to the rep I just talked to at EGW. Which is why I will get loads that pass the Wilson and Dillion case gauges but won’t pass the EGW. They also make a case gauge specifically for bullets with a large olive.
I greatly appreciate the detailed instruction and tips in your videos. I have a Dillon RL 550 and cannot get a consistent OAL. I'm loading 9mm Berry's RN 147 gr bullets, reprocessed range brass. I've thoroughly cleaned the setting die and it is tighten downed snug. Berry's recommends 1.160 OAL after numerous adjustments I hit 1.160 the next 10 bullets I loaded ranged from 1.149 to 1.164 never hit the same OAL twice. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Ok first thoughts… - Make sure you have alleviated as much slip from the shell plate as possible. - double check your crimp make sure you are not too tight, sometimes as the crimp comes in as it squeezes it will pull the bullet in and down. Make small adjustments down until you get in that .377-.379 window. Less is always more! - Also confirm that your using the appropriate seating stem adapter for the bullet style you are using. Ie flat or round The other thing is their is inherit variation in bullet ogive that will yield some variation in OAL and also consider different brass wall thickness giving more or less resistance while seating. I can also create variation with how I run the press either by speed or force on the handle. People sometimes don’t realize the variation they can add by how they run the press.
Great Video..I learned alot once more from you.I see you have a clear hose coming off your spent primer container. So what do you have? Im still picking spent primers off the floor even after buying a extra mouth off Ebay. There has to be a better way. Is you powder knob a Clickable one? Thank you and Happy New Year!!!
That is a bob chute. There isn’t a 100% fix for the primer dropping it’s usually due to Dillons decapping pin that is spring loaded. The bob chute does help and removing that cotter pin in favor of a paper clip or finishing nails works too.
@@SquatchReloaded Thank you.Yeah I removed that cotter pin first thing..I will try that Bob Chute. I tried using Hornady & RCSS & Redding Dies too. Not much difference to me on the problem.The Lee Universal decapping die helped a little.Ive got alot from your videos.They are great at teaching newbies like me.Thank you .
Just curious the powder measure won't drop any powder when you are working on station 3 to seat the bullet when the ram is brought up? It's been awhile since I've used my 550b... thanks for the informative videos!
How do you deal with coke bottling of the brass on 9mm? I just switched to Dillon dies and it is driving me nuts. My hornady wasn’t abundantly as obvious but these with Dillon look harsh.
HD Imaging not necessarily all we are looking to do is flatten back out the case wall. If your cast bullet diameter is say .335 instead of .356 you may need more taper crimp to flatten it out.
I would not recommend that practice. Every bullet has a different profile and may not use the same OAL as a factory round. Look in your manuals lengths vary with almost every different bullet.
@@SquatchReloaded So the die in my number 1 says "expander" but has the depriming pin in it also. I'm so confused do I need to get a new die for station 1 that has a deprimer also?
Being a retired manufacturing engineer, and in my early days an ultra precision machinist, I am always aware of thread pitch and how it might effect my process. In the case of Dillon die sets on yours (and mine) 550b, the threads per inch on the dies is 14. So 14 threads per inch gives you a pitch of .0714 thread to thread.
So every complete revolution of a die in the block will advance the die that amount in depth. It makes it easy to calculate how much to move the die when setting overall length. Also, since there are 6 flats on a lock ring, each turn of the die from one flat to the next flat is about .012 of an inch (actually .0119).
For instance, if you seat a bullet and your overall length when measured is too long, say .083 too long, you would turn your die one complete Rev and one more flat. Or 7 flats if you want to count that way. Of course that is assuming your lock ring is moving freely with the die.
This is likely one of the best comments on the web. Very helpful. If I would have thought about this I may have figured that out, but greatly appreciate not straining my brain. 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿. Any other tips like this would be helpful.
@@whliving thank you very much. I imagine you know much more about it than me!
I know most all reloading dies and presses are set up on Coarse Threads but it would benefit us greatly in making minute adjustments if someone would make a system with FINE threads...in my opinion .
thank you
Great info Sir ,but I have to admit your train of thought is over my head . I'll just stick with the method this young man is using .
I do not know why you do not have a larger audience because compare your explanation to other youtubers with a larger audience you explain reloading on a better scale especially using the Dillon which I do have. Keep it up.
Thanks for your kind words.
@@SquatchReloaded I am an avid yet rookie reloader and have traversed the whole internet from the moment I started researching reloading 2 years ago to now. You have a way of teaching other youtubers including the vastly more popular ones a more detailed and unconfusing set up. The Dillon has not been very user friendly, quite complicated for us startups LOL, but listening to your detailed explanation allowed me to make detailed changes on my setup. Thank you :-)
Great crimp advice at 9:03
Setting up a 55C now and appreciated your video. Big thanks. Subscribed now, too.
Thank you
Excellent reloading 👍🏻
Great vid , I'm busy setting my XL750 and this helps alot
Thank you for watching
thank you! i've recently inherited a pile of misc reloading stuff all in parts. these videos have vastly helped me figure out what is what
Man!, you've made some excellent videos on the 550. Since I started reloading, some 45 years ago, I've used red Hornady presses (single and progressive - with all its moving parts). I especially dislike the little spring that wraps around the shell plate and holds the rounds in, it's always breaking. Well, I remembered that my brother-in-law has a 550 and called him to see how he liked it. He said it is still boxed and never been used and told me to come get it - to get it out of his way. I liked the way the 550 flairs the top of a case within the powder die. With the Hornady, it had a separate die the did that. I'm be running up to his house tomorrow and pick it up. I'll be watching you tutorials a few more times.
Thanks for the videos. I just dusted off my 550 and needed a refresher on the setup. Absolutely great series. Thank you!
Well I had to watch again to make sure I had my settings right but the video is great keep it up and god bless
AWESOME SERIES!!!!!
Another thoughtful and precise video thank you!
Great video. Excellent explanation. Cheers !
Tyy so much for these vids would never been able to get this far without you. Now got fo fig powdeer and primers
Thank you that is why we are doing what we are doing.
Another great vid in the series!
Thanks!
You are welcome
Bro great video I enjoy your insight and good information all around
Thanks Mario
I’m loving this 9mm Reloading series so far . Well done 👍.Greetings from Australia. Cheers 🍻
Thank you. I am trying to make time to do a similar series on the XL750.
@@SquatchReloaded ill be looking forward to that . Cheers 🍻
Sorry that yew Aussies have such draconian gun laws. Have known many fine Aussies. Please emigrat and then vote R.
@@123logger Thanks brother , if things get any worse Down Under I will seriously consider moving to the Land of the Free , and the Home of the Brave . Cheers 🍻
Thank you. My husband helps me with our Dillon but he is not very strong in the teaching department. You have help me understand more on what I am doing and about our machine.
Thank you
Very nice 👍
Thanks!
Really enjoyed this series. I run the 550b and want to set it up for 9mm. I've always used the Dillon dies in all my other calibers but due to the plandimic Dillon has a crazy back order time on dies. Just wondering if you had a good go to die set you would recommend. Thanks.
I have been reloading for about 20 years.
I enjoyed your video.
have you ever used the EGW chamber checkers (seven slots) sold by Dillon. when checking the crimp and length find them much more usable than a one off (Wilson, Lee) single chamber checker.
Just saying.
The EGW chamber checkers are made to SAAMI “mimimun” specs according to the rep I just talked to at EGW. Which is why I will get loads that pass the Wilson and Dillion case gauges but won’t pass the EGW. They also make a case gauge specifically for bullets with a large olive.
I greatly appreciate the detailed instruction and tips in your videos. I have a Dillon RL 550 and cannot get a consistent OAL. I'm loading 9mm Berry's RN 147 gr bullets, reprocessed range brass. I've thoroughly cleaned the setting die and it is tighten downed snug. Berry's recommends 1.160 OAL after numerous adjustments I hit 1.160 the next 10 bullets I loaded ranged from 1.149 to 1.164 never hit the same OAL twice. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
What die set are you usong
@@SquatchReloaded Dillon die set 9mm 14406
Ok first thoughts…
- Make sure you have alleviated as much slip from the shell plate as possible.
- double check your crimp make sure you are not too tight, sometimes as the crimp comes in as it squeezes it will pull the bullet in and down. Make small adjustments down until you get in that .377-.379 window. Less is always more!
- Also confirm that your using the appropriate seating stem adapter for the bullet style you are using. Ie flat or round
The other thing is their is inherit variation in bullet ogive that will yield some variation in OAL and also consider different brass wall thickness giving more or less resistance while seating. I can also create variation with how I run the press either by speed or force on the handle. People sometimes don’t realize the variation they can add by how they run the press.
@@SquatchReloaded I'll will look at and adjust all of that. THANK YOU for the advice.
Great Video..I learned alot once more from you.I see you have a clear hose coming off your spent primer container. So what do you have? Im still picking spent primers off the floor even after buying a extra mouth off Ebay. There has to be a better way. Is you powder knob a Clickable one? Thank you and Happy New Year!!!
That is a bob chute. There isn’t a 100% fix for the primer dropping it’s usually due to Dillons decapping pin that is spring loaded. The bob chute does help and removing that cotter pin in favor of a paper clip or finishing nails works too.
@@SquatchReloaded Thank you.Yeah I removed that cotter pin first thing..I will try that Bob Chute. I tried using Hornady & RCSS & Redding Dies too. Not much difference to me on the problem.The Lee Universal decapping die helped a little.Ive got alot from your videos.They are great at teaching newbies like me.Thank you .
@@SquatchReloaded where did you buy the BOB Chute? thanks
Just curious the powder measure won't drop any powder when you are working on station 3 to seat the bullet when the ram is brought up? It's been awhile since I've used my 550b... thanks for the informative videos!
As long as there is no cartridge under the powder hopper then it will not. It is case activated.
@@SquatchReloaded excellent, thank you!
what spent primer catch are you using. my spent primers go everyplace but in the cup Dillon provides
This unit is from Uniqutek and comes with the hose.
How do you deal with coke bottling of the brass on 9mm? I just switched to Dillon dies and it is driving me nuts. My hornady wasn’t abundantly as obvious but these with Dillon look harsh.
Make sure you have a minimum of .012 flare. Do not over crimp stay around .377. More flare helps.
@@SquatchReloaded Would the amount of crimp be different for lead bullets?
HD Imaging not necessarily all we are looking to do is flatten back out the case wall. If your cast bullet diameter is say .335 instead of .356 you may need more taper crimp to flatten it out.
when seating can you a factory bullet to set the die adjustment
I would not recommend that practice. Every bullet has a different profile and may not use the same OAL as a factory round. Look in your manuals lengths vary with almost every different bullet.
How come my brass let's a lot of my bullet tips go right to the bottom before I even get the seat?
Are you using new brass? And are you sizing it
@@SquatchReloaded I'm using fired brass, my decapping die might have a sizing issue I'll definitely check that
@@SquatchReloaded So the die in my number 1 says "expander" but has the depriming pin in it also. I'm so confused do I need to get a new die for station 1 that has a deprimer also?
Station 1 is size/deprime station. The expander die will not be used as the powder funnel does the expansion.
@@SquatchReloaded Copy so does that mean I need a new die for station 1? And I thought station 2 strictly belled the case not necessary expanded it?