An in-depth comparison, the information You give here is not found Anywhere else except Manuals and passed on information from our Predecessors! Great Stuff F.C.,Thank You
I find that I return to your videos when I have a specific question about reloading. You do a great job explaining why we need to do what needs to be done. Thanks for your excellent instructions.
Once again Cookie, great job of explaining a complicated and confusing subject. Gotta love Lee products. They have a solution for every budget and every problem. Always a great value.
This is what a good video represents; explaining/clarifying a topic which has some confusion associated to it, with clear precise information along with instructional demonstrations. Good work FC
I bought Lee equipment to save money thinking I would upgrade later. I've never upgraded. I have loaded great ammo with my Lee reloading equipment. I've been very happy with all of the ammo I've loaded both rifle and handgun. Love the crimp die for 30 30. All I've ever loaded is better than than any factory with the exception of federal gold medal match which is equal to hand loaded ammo.
I agree. Lee has some innovative equipment, and it is very reasonably priced. Also, Lee's customer service is second to none. I have to admit that all of the major manufacturers that I have dealt with in over 50 years of reloading have produced good products.
FortuneCookie, first off, I gotta say... I love your videos. They are a fantastic resource for reloaders of all skill levels. OK, now that that's over with, I gotta add... I also am a big fan of the Lee FCD in the various flavors. I see soooooo very much hate on the various reloading forums about the FCD, most of which is completely unjustified. There is one argument against it, though, that I do think has some merit *under certain specific circumstances*. If you are reloading for a semi-auto pistol, and you are using a slightly oversized bullet that is also slightly soft, some guys argue that the carbide sizing insert will squeeze the bullet, reducing its diameter. The brass has some spring-back to it, so now you have a bullet with a slightly reduced diameter sitting in the case. This (according to "them") can cause reduced neck tension, causing various problems. I have never used a bullet that would put me in this situation, so I don't know if it's a valid argument or not, but it is at least something for guys that use the FCD for semi-auto pistols to be aware of. But as I mentioned, I am a *huge* fan of the FCD. Thanks again for another fantastic video, FC.
floorpizza - Thanks for your comment. For whatever reason, the haters of the FCD do not fully regard the concept of the FCD. The problem is as follows: Everyone is right. But users of the Lee CFCDs have to understand that the die is not intended to run 45ACP rounds through so that they will chamber in a 40 cal (of course this is an overstatement only to make a point). If there is any wholesale resizing of the final rounds happening, what those shooters point out will come to pass. The FCD was designed to iron out irregularities that would impede functioning, not size down oversized rounds. And it's really simple to determine - all according to Richard Lee's design when you see his instructions - 1) The TL bullets are cast and prepared for reloading with no sizing of the bullets required 2) The ammo is loaded, remove the mouth flare 3) Drop the rounds into the chamber and if they chamber easily or with slight finger pressure and readily extractable, they are OK to proceed 4) Run the rounds through the FCD to apply the final taper or roll crimp. If 3) the rounds require much pressure to seat, the bullets need to be sized. And 4) when the round goes through the FCD, only intermittent bulges being ironed out should be felt - If instead, bigger "zones" of resizing equal to the entire bearing surface of the bullet, are felt, or if any "bullet pull out" is experienced, neck tension is being lost for exactly the reasons you mention. The bullets need to be sized. ( Note, Lee FCDs are obviously useful for but not necessary for loading jacketed bullets.) And when those sized bullets are loaded, the FCD feel of bulges being corrected will assure smooth functioning and revolver feeding with that "drop in snick" that shooter love. When other brands of seater / crimpers are used, occasional rounds hang up on feeding requiring digital assurance of round seating - you see this all the time (of course, this needs to be differentiated from fouled cylinders or chambers causing same). Best to ya, FC
Hey, Fortune Cookie! I had a .38/357 Magnum Lee FCD, and gave up on using it several years ago. I thought I had sold it, but found it! Covid boredom...I watched your FCD video, and, I figure I just didn't know how to use it. Thank you! I will re think my bias against the FCD, and probably live happily ever after!
Anytime i need to know something or have some problem this channel is the first place i look. I have most of the reloading manuals ( Lee is the worst. Very confusing way of writing - maybe its just me) but Cookie knows how to explain things better, buy far! Thank you, sir
I have lee dies on all my auto reloads. Really something I couldn't do without after using. Cheap and effective. I'm surprised nobody else has one from some of the other big company's.
Michael John - Have you noticed some shooters do an extra finger push to make sure their rounds are in their revolver cylinders? It is because 1) they don't use the LFCD or 2) they've already shot 200 rounds and their chambers are fouled a bit with powder residue. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays..!! FC
I have only been reloading for the last five years but in that time i have reloaded for my auto loaders both in pistol and rifle , bolt action rifles and my auto loader pistols. Are used to just use the regular dies with their taper crimp until I started reloading my Glock . Everything changed after that as I'm sure you well know the peculiarities of Glocked brass and their unsupported feed ramps... bulge city 😐. After that I looked up the best remedy for said brass and LFCD,s were the suggestion , I bought one and was very happy with the results. I even ran old rounds made only with normal 3 taper dies and found out that they corrected these problem rounds. I'm a convert now and have bought one for every caliber that I use. I highly suggest anyone that is getting into or anyone that reloads to try these you won't be disappointed. Thanks for posting your video and have a Merry Christmas. All the best to you and your family.. PS everyone please support your local gun range and NRA !
Michael John - Thanks for your posting... You will find that the LFCDs work as advertised, but there will be the rare instance of bullet pull out from their use...happens when the bullets are way oversize and the LFCD does major squeezing correction of the big size of the bullet in the seated case = case spring back and loss of bullet tension = the bullet pulls out with taper crimp LFCDs. Does not happen when the LFCD is used as intended - for minor corrections of bulges that might impair feeding. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC
@@FortuneCookie45LC I already have all of the the die sets that I need. Unfortunately, they all have the old style crimp dies. But it IS nice to know that if/when I can afford to upgrade, I can still buy the factory crimp die separate. I DO have them for my rifle dies, but not for pistol. That might need to be my next upgrade...🤔
Great little primer. I only buy Lee 4 die sets now when I know I will need crimped rounds. They are just so much easier to use and a great buy. Thank you for taking the time to post the video.
+Michael McNamara - And the free shell holder is a nice touch. Seems other reloading companies recently went with that - all about market share...Have a great day, FC
I set my Factory Crimp Die for .30-30 a little differently. I screwed the die down to touch the shell holder as you said, and stopped right there. I put the prepared cartridge in the shell holder and raised the ram all the way, lowered it, and checked the crimp. There was none, so I turned the die in a little and ran the cartridge again. I repeated that until I got the crimp I wanted. It was only one more step, as I recall, less than 1/4 turn total. The crimps are beautifully consistent.
Nice vid....explains what I needed to understand on the rifle side. Just sold me on the Lee factory crimp for rifle. Thank you from Australia. Stay well during these crazy times!
Novice reloader here. I now have a better understanding of the final crimping process thanks to you. The crimping process is a delicate one I thought, but this took a bit of the mystery out of it for me. If I understand correctly, this final die will not only crimp but also give a "final" calibration to your cartridge dimensions, beyond the original resizing.
Walter Palmer - Right you are...some think that the Lee FCD sizes the final round, but if you use it, you will find that it really takes out minor bulges and imperfections that would cause problems in function and chambering. There is no wholesale sizing being done, nor should it be done... I have other videos on these dies that will add more information. Have a great day, FC
Hello FortuneCookie45LC. I know that this video was posted several years ago but I just started using the Lee Hand Press today. Your directions were exactly what I needed to help me get started with the reloading. I was not sure if I had a crimp die or how to use one until I found this instructional video. I do indeed have the correct crimp die with the Lee die set that I received today. I used it to load 50 rounds of 300 Savage. Thank you for your great instructions. Dale
After reloading 45 LCD with this crimp die the round fit better in my vequaro better then most factory loads lee are the only crimp dies I will use for all my different calibers good stuff brother
jayboney el toro - Thanks for posting comment..!! One thing though, bro is that if the bullet is a cast bullet and way oversized, the factory crimp die will squeeze it down (you can feel this excessive pressure when you run the press) and you will actually lose tension of the bullet in the round...But if this happens, it simply means that the bullets need to be sized to the correct diameter for your gun. The FCD was not designed to size cartridges, but only to remove bulges and irregularities that may impede chambering. When thus used, they are mighty fine indeed...Good reloadin' to ya, FC
Hey Mr Cookie... Nice job on the Lee crimp die descriptions and rudimentary set up. In one video you were able to answer all my concerns for 38spcl, 9mm, 45acp,and my 223/5.56 rounds! Nicely done!
The collet type dies for bottleneck cases are great especially for autoloaders. A must have. The carbide type for straight wall cases, less so, but they do function as a maximum cartridge dimension check, which is something. I buckled a couple of new 10mm cases using the standard LEE crimp die. I then switched to the carbide die and it ironed the bulge out mostly.
It's nice to see (or hear) my Chinese brothers getting way into shooting and handloading! I have just got my FOB father in law hooked up with his first rifle, and he loves it!
Very comprehensive -- well done. There is a back story to the creation of Lee Factory Crimp dies. The story is told by Richard Lee himself in his second edition Modern Reloading Manual ( all reloaders should own a copy) . I won't spoil the story but I will just leave you with a teaser that many big reloading companies were very upset with Lee when he came out with his Factory Crimp dies to the point of trying to put him out of business.
+Vengenace Early -- I am so sorry to have missed this great comment - when Google does not post a comment in my inbox - I will miss it every time...The other companies first started getting really upset with Lee when he came out with his carbide sizing dies, just as good at half the price of the competition. We all wanted the carbide to save the hassle of lubing handgun brass, that any reasonable price would be paid. How glad we were when Lee's definition of reasonable was a lot lower than the other companies idea of reasonable!! Same thing happened again with Lee bullet molds. Thanks to you, we know the reaction to Lee Factory Crimp Dies... Have a great day, FC
Hi FC-- Yes Lee is the best in many areas. As you know many well known companies were bought out by very large conglomerates about 10 plus years ago. That is why there is very little innovation from them. They should have been able to beat Lee a long time ago in price and quality. But IMHO they are too top heavy and just don't have the drive of Lee.
+Vengenace Early -- Lee is still a family run business - Andy Lee is the great grandson of Richard Lee and heads up the casting division. Have a great day, FC
Two thumbs up!!! Nice video. I bought my first Lee set on 7.62 x 25 tokarev for my CZ52,following your opinion on this product, and it is an awesome value. Thanks FC.
Thanks. This helped me out a lot. I began reloading 9mm with a Lee hand press about 6 months ago and upgraded to a Dillon 550b. I kept the Lee dies but began having problems with the cartridges feeding into my G19. When I inserted a magazine and racked a round into the chamber the slide would not go fully forward. I adjusted the Lee factory crimp die the way you suggested and the rounds are now going into battery just fine. The fact that resizing was taking place at this 4th stage was news to me. It’s easy to visualize de-capping, re-priming, belling, seating-but the resizing is harder to grasp. Thanks again for the help.
robert shinenne - Thanks for your comment, and congrats on getting the FCD... Note, the FCD carbide rings do not resize the entire case like the full length size die does...what the FCD does is resize the whole case in terms of removing bulges that would cause feeding issues...Squeezing down the whole loaded round is not happening unless a cast bullet was really on the huge side. If so, those bullets should be sized before loading... Good reloadin' to ya... FC
Wow, thanks for taking your time to explain this to me, it's much needed as me a noob here :d. anyway. It helped me fix some of my 9mm reloads with powder coated lead bullets that have a little belly where the case openning is. But now, every one is easily fitted into my gauge. Thanks again!
This video was well make and explains the concept of the Lee Factory Crimp Die offerings. I have the dies and they work very well in my reloading. Again very good job!!!!
I wish that this presenter included the following statement in his presentation: “Note, Lee FCDs are obviously useful for but not necessary for loading jacketed bullets.” He did say exactly that in a parenthetical statement in a response to another comment here. I did not realize that the *carbide* FCD was specifically designed for use with potentially oversized (albeit very slightly) cast bullets. Now I understand the origin and functionality of the FCD. For un-sized cast lead bullets the FCD makes complete sense (at last). I have a question for FCD users: does the crimp adjustment ever drift while you are reloading? There doesn’t appear to be a way to lock in the stem that sets the location of the crimping sleeve. (My first press is a single-stage Hornady LNL with their nifty die bushings for quick changes. Every once in a while I have a bushing that drifts loose and causes problems.) I started using a separate crimp die long ago. If the crimp is applied by the seater die, the bullet is moving downward while the crimp is being applied. I prefer to seat the bullet completely, then apply a crimp to a stationary bullet. I also think it’s much easier to adjust a separate crimp die than it is to add a crimp adjustment to the very important seating die adjustments. However, I have never had a need to re-size a case *after* seating a bullet. Yes, sometimes there are very small, unsightly bulges where the base of a bullet sits inside the case but I have never had a malfunction or failure to load because of one. If I see too big a bulge, I stop and figure out what is going wrong with my seating process.
Thanks for explaining this. I am a pretty green reloader whose gathering the tools necessary to to load for my .35 rem Marlin 336 and it’ll be the first round I’ll have loaded that’ll require crimping. My other dies are all RCBS, but I am most likely going to go with a lee pacesetter set simply due to it coming with the factory crimp die which seems fool-proof comparatively to other die sets way of crimping
I had the same problem with a set of 9mm Lee dies. The carbide sizing die didn’t always size the bottom portion of some cases. This resulted in some cartridges getting stuck and not fully chambering in my automatics. I switched to a set of RCBS 9mm dies with a carbide sizing die and this solved the problem.
Thanks for your time in making this video. Also, I'd like to add that part of my interest in starting reloading in the 9 mm is to get comfortable with the process, and eventually purchase a 45.70 where the reloading skill will be of a greater savings benefit.
Walter Palmer - Sounds like a good policy - Google did not post your comment in my inbox, and when that happens, I don't see 'em for months... Best to ya, FC
Great Job. I've been using them for pistol rounds and they are almost required for my semi-autos. To a certain degree they ensure the bullet cases are uniform as well. Looks like the rifle design is a little different, but simple nonetheless.
New to your site and You tube, in general. Love your work. Been loading for years but quit for a while. Have trouble with all the hate from the dillon people. I don't have the money for a dillon set up. As I did without for years, I wouldn't likely spend that much. My Lee stuff works fine, no problems. I stay within my finances.
I don’t know what the odds are that you will see this comment per the age of this vid but I am trying to find some info. I just picked up a box of Hornady 230gn in .451” to load for a .45 Colt Henry lever rifle. I didn’t realize the 230gn was for 45 acp. I’m trying to figure out how to taper crimp these for use in the 45 Colt. Just use the 45 acp crimp die maybe? Appreciate all your content from the east coast!
Great video. I also like the Lee crimp dies. Sure, it's one extra step but worth it. I use mine with my Lee 160 gn cast bullet mold for the 7.62 x 39 cartridges. Very consistent and, (in my opinion), more accurate than the other crimps. You are the encyclopedia of gun info. I always love to see your videos pop-up so I can watch and learn. Thanks again!
therealrg Wow, that's very kind of you to post this comment. It is greatly appreciated. I have a Lyman Loverin bullet for the 7.62x39 and a nice lighter load that shoots accurately from my SKS rifles. The rifles though, have a bad habit of losing brass, so I just shoot my surplus ammo as a rule. 7.62 x 39 ammo is starting to become available again, and it's still fairly cheap (not as cheap as before when the Chinese stuff was available). Someday I'll whip out that Lyman mold again, but I sure like my Lee 6 cavity jobs...Best Regards to you
I really enjoy your videos very informational I have only been reloading for about two and a half years recently loading for 44 mag 44 spl and 357 Magnum and 38spl but your information helps me most when I am thinking about cast bullets thanks for all information!!
Ya there's quite a few but a lot don't go into great detail like you do. When I started doing 9mm and 223 I just bought Hornady thinking they were all basically the same. Now I'm paying more attention and I'm trying to figure out if I want to do seat and crimp in the same step. My 9mm turn out ok with the Hornady dies, but I think for 357 and 10mm I'm going to do the crimp in a separate step with the Lee dies (at least for the hotter loads). Now it's just a question of figuring out which sets do taper and which do rolled...looking on Amazon they don't say, and checking Lee's site it doesn't say for the 4 die sets which crimp it does. Guess I'll just order and hope the 357 is rolled and the 10mm is tapered.
David DeBlois Ah, the 7mm Rem Magnum!! I remember that rascal when it was first introduced, and a noted gun writer took a M700 ADL in that caliber and went after big game... I was just in high school and my priorities at the time were the 3 Gs - grades, guns and girls - Mr. Lovisone called us all "the punk kids".
Do you have a video on bullet seating? I'm an avid handloader myself and love to learn as much as I can about the art. Currently reloading 7 mm mag, 44 mag, 357 mag, and 38 spl.
David DeBlois Since you are an experienced reloader, not much that you don't already know...Unless you are dealing with long nose Keith bullet's, reloaders can generally use the crimping grooves and cannelures to set seating depth. And with our bolt guns, we want the bullets back of the rifling by .006-.009" for a good rule of thumb. Yes, there are multiple videos uploaded featuring the bullets seating... Have a great day
Another excellent and well explained video I wish I'd seen before I made my last purchase, lol. I got a 4 die set for 9mm and thought I knew what I was doing, but I now know I just got lucky! I've since bought 3 die sets for .45acp and .38/.357 but haven't started loading them. I guess I'm taking the walk of shame (maybe I can disguise it by looking for powder too!) back into the store to buy the FCD now that I truly understand the BSFD and FCD. I really enjoy watching your videos. I learn so much from you because you take the time to show and explain how and why things are done. Well done sir!
fisoxlt Thank you for your valuable comment...the first time I used a Lee FCD and felt the die hesitate and grab a portion of a loaded round going into the die, it was an eye opening event. You can load good ammo without the FCD, but when it is used, you just don't give chambering issues any mind at all. Of course seating depth remains a consideration for auto pistols, but the FCD sure does a great job...Best Regards to you
Fantastically informative video. Would like a discussion - for the auto rounds - how much crimp is enough ? I'm sure you've discussed this -- link please ?
I think the LFC die provides the best crimp I've ever seen and the uniformity in neck tension over conventional roll crimping does result in tighter groups. When I use the LFC dies I apply the crimp 3 times and rotate the case approx 120 degrees each time for an absolutely smooth homogeneous crimp each & every time. No more bulges & tight spots when running new reloads through the case checking gauge because of roll crimping over length cases.
bushed274 - Lee doesn't provide enough in their instruction sheets, though. The LFCD works well when there isn't severe sizing happening with its use. If so, the neck tension is actually being lost as the bullet swages down and the case springs back off of it. The detractors of the LFCDs make a big point of this, but when the die just produces momentary bulge corrections = that's the way the die was designed to work. If so, it indeed, is the best crimp in the business... Best to ya, FC Steve
I've just been using my Lee factory crimp dies on cartridge cases with cannelures so the only displacement has been the ring of crimped brass into the cannelure groove.
Thanks for this video. The have explained the crimp die better than any one else. I have just upgraded my reloading press to a load master, and was wondering if I should get a factory crimp die for the fifth station. And I wasnt sure about it, until now. Thanks again.
SamLFisher The LFCD will serve you well in that station. The carbide sizer assures good functioning in your firearm of choice, and works very well for cast bullets. If you load jacketed or plated bullets for autoloaders, the plain taper crimp dies will do very well for you as you will not encounter bullets that are a bit oversize. Please let me know how the FCD does for you. Best Regards
I just purchased the Carbide, Lee Factory Crimp die for 9mm. I've been using an RCBS 2 die set for reloading in a Dillon XL 650. It's odd, only using 2 dies, and in my opinion, the RCBS carbide die set actually undersizes the brass. That's ok, it flares it back out and it's fine. I'm an old salt reloader.. I have zero problems with all other calibers, but the 9mm die set, I've been crimping at the same time as seating, and you have to get it just exactly right, or it'll crimp too early as it's seating, causing the round to compress and you end up with a slightly buckled or squished case. I just got the crimp die in the mail today... I haven't used it yet and I'm use to the rifle factory crimp dies sold by Lee. They make some amazing stuff, and I have even replaced some of my RCBS with the Lee die sets. I love their 4-piece 45ACP die set.. Amazing quality and I love the fact that you can simply re-adjust the dies with your fingers and they stay locked in place and do not move. Never used the Lee pistol die set before. You put out a good quality video on it, and I'm going to sub. Thank you! I reload 2-3 thousand rounds of pistol every month. Lots of 9mm, lots of 45, and bucket loads of 10mm. (yes, I'm a tremendous fan of the 10mm caliber.. god's gift to pistol hunters like myself) I will likely get this factory crimp die for all caliber pistols. I already use the Lee Factory Crimp die in 308 and 5.56, as well as a few other calibers.. I was just shocked to open the container and find the pistol caliber crimp did not have the compression collet .. that's what I was expecting. Thanks Fortune Cookie! You're great!
+Poppa Bear --As you have found, the Lee pistol carbide factory crimp dies do not have the collets; In addition, the Lee rifle factory crimp dies have the collets but do not have the carbide. There are good reasons for this as the crimping requirements of the calibers they crimp are different. Suffice to say that all the Lee Factory Crimp Dies provide the "Best Crimp in the Business" This is FC45LC language and Lee should use that in their advertising - the many users of these dies, including you and I, would agree wholeheartedly and without equivocation. Sure, Lee reloading dies lack the all steel and finer finished "quality". That winds up in the eye of the beholder only. I do not fault those fans of RCBS, Lyman, Hornady or Redding at all as those are also fine die sets (and I have some of those as well). Lee does not provide some of the more featured bullet seater dies, nor the fine neck sizing dies that other manufacturers produce. However, the Lee Neck Collet Sizing Dies have some brilliant performance...I have videos up on all these issues. Plus, the Lee dies deliver outstanding performance and the highest value in the industry for reloading dies. Each reloader is free to agree or disagree with any of this. But Lee is the market share leader in reloading. Good reloadin' to ya, FC
FortuneCookie45LC thanks for reply! The only issue I've ever had with Lee dies, is reloading 45ACP.. When I flare the cartridge on the Dillon XL650, the flare can be a bit much... I really have to watch what I'm doing, because that flare will cut into the seating die.. I hear and can feel it, and little tiny bits of aluminum scrape off and I'm sure it gets between the brass and the bullet. No failures yet, but it's a concern.. The aluminum on the outside of the die just simply scrapes off.. I just decrease the size of the flare, and most of the problem goes away. Thanks again for the response! Cheers!
+Poppa Bear --It's possible to flare the case mouth so excessively that the expanded mouth will not even enter the crimping die. As I recall, some of my older dies from Herter's, Lyman, and RCBS did have some kind of plating on them that would come off as little specks when seating bullets. But those old dies have been replaced and the newer ones including Lee don't lose any material from the die bodies. I'm almost sure those old platings were not aluminum. Best Regards to ya, FC
W Tom - Lee makes good stuff (with some rare exceptions) at high value. My first carbide die was a Lyman, but when Lee came along with their carbide dies for 1/2 the price - it was almost too good to be true...Been using Lee stuff ever since, along with RCBS and Lyman with some Hornady. Got my first item from Redding (after all these years of reloading) recently. Have a great day, FC Steve
I was worried about over-crimping, but you say not to worry or worry less about it. I'm reloading 9 mm and some say not to crimp, but some return of the flare must be necessary.
You can over crimp any round but this crimp die really makes it very hard to do so. I reload auto pistols and it's very important to make sure you get a proper crimp on them. From what I understand and have experienced .. I use the normal 3 set but I use zero taper crimp and only use it for seating depth. After that I let the LFCD do the rest and I get great results every time. Good luck 👍
Eric Laird - Thanks, Eric for your enthusiasm...!! A crimp really helps for ammo we are running through our semi-auto 223 / 5.56 rifles. And the Lee factory crimp die really serves us well. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve
DEAR FORTUNE COOKIE HELP - lee liquid alox!!!!!! I have just started casting. Wanting to get my .45ACP "right". So far am happy with the results. powder 2. The Lee resize bulletin says you have to "lube" the bullets before running them through the sizer? So question is what is the correct way if you want to discard Liquid Alox? a. Cast b. Powder Coat c. Resize Or; a. Cast b. Resize c. Powder Coat? I am sure you ave answered this already but I don't see a video that is clear on the subject (yet). I will be so grateful for a pointer. Best wishes from SOUTH AFRICA Boerseun
Lee has two types of Factory Crimp Dies, one thaqt is carbide style and one that is collet styled. The Carbide sizer part straightens the cases back up when the crimp part bulges the cases from the downward force of the die upon the case neck. The Collect Style crimp die does not apply downward pressure but rather inward pressure of which does not buckle the case creating a bulge that would then need ironing out. If this is true the carbide part of the die fixes what the downward pressure crimp part messes up, whereby I call it a gimmick of sorts because it does not really solve the problem, but rather patches it over. All that work hardening the brass is not good either. Better to just not cause an issue as apposed to patching it back up I would think. Again The Lee Collect Style crimp die never buckles the case whereby never needing to fix its own fuct-ups, as the downward forcing Lee Carbide Factory Style crimp dies do. Ergo with the Collect Style crimp dies there is never a need for the carbide ring, period. So if you see my point being Lee has the Collet Style crimp dies why would they sell a Carbide crimp die that messes up the brass only to turn around and solve its own issues, other than to act as if it is the crimp die of crimp dies of sort that everyone should have(?). That is why I call it a gimmick crimp die. Makes no sense when the Collet Style crimp die exist, right? Be sure and watch Lee's own videos on their Factory Carbide Style crimp dies: 1) ruclips.net/video/0rjlUH25DyM/видео.html And their Factory Collet Style crimp dies (of which they have both /roll and a taper types): 2) ruclips.net/video/vo7p4k36swI/видео.html
I paid for RBCS $ 59 for LEE $ 79 But I have a problem with Crimping when using RBCS Die, there is always a harmonica, which is a wave on the neck. Now I'll start using Lee
Hi FourtuneCookie , I run a Hornady AP Press and mostly Lee Carbide dies -thanks to your excellent videos on Lee. I am current using the Hornady powder case activated dispenser that comes with AP press and had to get the PTX add-on to expand brass & through powder on one station. It works but not optimum solution. Is there a way to use the Lee Carbide expanding die (9mm) with the Hornady case activate powder dispenser ?
I have some 65+ year-old Pattersen Mgf. (Culver City, CA., LONG GONE) taper crimp dies for .45 ACP and .38 Super that do a BETTER than factory job of securing the bullet in the case for semi-auto 1911A design pistols. I've having a machinist friend duplicate them for my new SIG 10mm auto. I crimp my .308's because they are also used in a automatic rifle. For target or hunting with a bolt-action or Ruger #1 falling block rifle I NEVER crimp my case necks to avoid "work-hardening" the brass. I use a 1950's RCBS case lathe to turn the necks to safe thickness/length for consistency.
I use the carbide factory crimp die on my jacketed projectiles and have been very satisfied doing so…but…since I size my cast lead boolits to fit the cylinder sleeves and barrel diameters at +.001 to .002 inch oversize the 'carbide' model will squeeze that extra diameter back down to standard bore sizes as in the .45 ACP @ .451-2 and it negates all the 'slug work' I did to properly match the cast rounds to the particular weapon it will be used in. Have you taken any of these cast rounds apart and measured the projectile to see what this carbide die really does to cast projectiles?
+Charles Irby -- Interesting - I just did a video on "Does the Lee Factory Crimp Die Swage Bullets and Lose Neck Tension?" And I did pull bullets and measure them - the gist of it is when the Lee CFCD functions as it was designed to do, the rounds go into the die and we only feel spots of resistance when bulges are being corrected - we don't feel any wholesale swaging or sizing happening. When we get that, we pull the bullets and find that no swaging of the bullet has occurred. If we are getting some definite sizing action, the bullet is being swaged and neck tension is being lost. That is the one main complaint that those who are critical of the FCD have, but in all the many many times I've used FCDs, I've only had that happen during one reloading session of the 45 ACP. And that amount of sizing and loss of tension has not happened again.
I have a question for you: I inadvertently ended up with both the Lee factory crimp die and the Redding taper crimp die for loading 6.5 Creedmoor. I have crimped 10 cartridges with each die and will be comparing them at the range on Saturday. Have you used a taper crimp die like the Redding die and if so, what's your opinion about the results compared to the Lee die?
holdengr Ahhh - the 222 Rem. - one of the sweet shooters that gets very little mention nowadays...That and the 222 Rem Mag led to the development of the 223. Thanks for posting on your 222 Rem and crimps... Best to ya....
+fractal_force -- That Lyman die can still have great use for 223 bolt gun reloading - might want to oil it up nice before you put that away... Best to ya... FC
Any reason why that's better than the lower cost of getting the full Lee (cheaper) set, and only getting the RCBS for the one die, the sizing/de-primer, sincethe de-priming pin on a Lee isn't removeable, and the RCBS is, and has the carbide feature as well?
+Dixon Micucci -- Richard Lee was the first one that made carbide dies affordable...the other makers charged an arm and a leg for carbide dies back in the day. And now Lee does not offer only one, but two carbide dies in those 4 die sets you mention - and at a lower price than the competition, plus shellholder and powder scoop thrown in. Only recently has Hornady included a shellholder. If you go with Lee 4 die sets, you don't need anything extra - and the Lee sizer deprimer die is one of the best - the decapping pin is integral with the depriming stem - replacements are cheap - I have those, but never need to put them in as the Lee decap pins don't break - the rod just backs out and you reposition it and retighten - back in operation. Good reloadin' to ya, FC
Bloody awesome video from a very knowledgeable bloke!!!! Thanks very much mate, this has explained heaps to me and I will be sure to put that info to good use. Happy shooting !!!!!!
Question from your friend from the East Coast. Do you know what crip die can be use for 8mm nambu pistol? I converted 357 sig brass into 8mm nambu. it's lots of work, but works fine and now I have a nice shooter than an expensive paper weight. The issue I'm having is that I'm not able to crip. Do you If a different caliber cripping die can work for the 8mm nambu? Thanks in advance.
+Alejandro Mendoza -- That Nambu pistol of yours is a prized war souvenir. Some convert 40 cal brass to Nambu, but of course, the 357 Sig can be readily used. As I recall, there are reloading die sets available for the Nambu, but they don't sell that well. I checked and RCBS makes a set - pricey though. But there is a crimp die in there that can do just a little crimp like a taper crimp to full roll crimp. The Nambu headspaces on the shoulder so you can roll crimp your bullets. And Nambu bullets aren't easy to find either, so you'll probably have to cast and size for the Nambu...these things you are already aware - Good reloadin' to ya, FC
1957Shep You and I and hundreds of thousands of shooters worldwide like the Lee crimp dies...Best Regards to 1957Shep and I'm looking forward to more videos from ya...
Yeah me too i noticed my auto loader rounds ran way better with one of these. The case mouths last allot longer with the taper crimp as well. I noticed the roll crimp seemed to over work the brass and it would split sooner
Patmclean232 One great way to not have concerns for split necks though is to have jugs and jugs of brass (accumulated free from ranges - picked up discreetly, of course) in all our shooting calibers on hand - all wet tumbled clean and ready to load...I haven't been concerned about brass supplies in the last 40 years, and I've even bought brass from companies like USA Brass and East Coast Armory on occasion when I really wanted to boost my 44 magnum and 45 Colt stockpiles...Best Regards
Yeah im starting to get a decent collection of brass in the calibers ive had for a while. Friends of mine know i reload so they get brass and wheel weights for me every chance they get(as long as i take them shooting once in a while). There are certain calibers i have that are harder to come across 380, 45acp, 357mag, and especially 303 btit. I have piles of 9mm and 40s&w. I dont think ill ever run out of those two at this point lol
Patmclean232 For me, it's calibers like 45 Colt and 45/70, and yes 303 British - But that's where companies like USA Brass are so good. I put in orders for the calibers above and they have all of that for about 25-35 cents a casing.(not bad for 45/70). Hereabouts, 45 acp and 38 special are easy to get - there are usually piles of it, and as long as I don't bring a wheelbarrel, the rangemasters don't give the frequent range customers any trouble if we pick up some - after all, I tell 'em I'm just going to wind up bringing it all back anyway... My biggest brass cache is in 45ACP - I've got buckets and jugs and boxes of 45ACP everywhere...comes from all that steel shooting we did back in the late 70s and early 80s. Best Regards to ya
Great video, very informative. I am a beginner re-loader. I use the Lee 4 die set and get good results. My question is on the use of cast lead bullets. I have learned on RUclips that some lead bullets have a crimping grove for a roll crimp and others are made with no crimping grove. Can the Lee factory crimp die (with a taper crimp) be used on all cast lead bullets? Are there circumstances where a roll crimp must be used? I enjoy your detailed approach to re-loading. I look forward to more of your videos.
+John Smiley -- I've just done a video that answers most of your questions..."Determining Seating Depth VR to John Chinn and His Daughters", but the real title should be "Crimping VR to John Chinn....." (Seating depth and crimping position are dealing with the same beast..). Also for answers to other questions "Lee Factory Crimp Dies...The Best Crimp in the Business" will clear up a lot of stuff because there are actually three Lee Factory Crimp Dies.... Best to ya... FC
Sir, I just purchased a Lee factory crimp dye for .223. I was setting it up, feeling just slight resistance. I noticed a line on the case shoulder just below the cannalure. Is tnis too much crimp? Thank you, Joe.
Cookie - What does the roll crimp sleeve look like? How is it different from the taper sleeve? I have two FCDs and I can't tell which one is for auto pistols and which is the revolver die.
I am a new reloader. I read some manuals that say do NOT apply any crimp to an auto-pistol round. I understand why they say this because they usually headspace on the mouth of the case. But I hear many people doing it and common sense tells me an auto pistol should have a crimp. Whats your opinion? Have you had any problems? Ive been applying a small amount of crimp and have had no problems but you have been reloading ALOT longer than me. Thanks! - Jacob S.
Jacob S. - Great question - we need bullet retention for ammo integrity, maintaining seating depth, providing for powder burn, insure functioning, sustaining ammo for storage. Bullet retention = neck tension + crimp. The best time to not use any crimp is with single shot or bolt action rifles...where neck tension alone is sufficient. Auto pistols still need crimping to keep bullets from being driven deeper into the case on feeding. What you have heard on not crimping auto pistol rounds is partly true - you do not want to do roll crimps like revolvers for auto pistols as headspace is lost as you say. However, taper crimps allow crimp while not bending the case mouth in so that headspace on the chember shoulder is maintained. Taper crimp dies are commonly used to crimp auto pistol rounds including 9mm, 40 cal, and 45 ACP, 38 Super, 380, 32 ACP, etc. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC Ahhh. Makes sense. Now I understand why auto pistol caliber dies come with seating dies only capable of taper crimps. Thanks a ton! Your an absolute wealth of knowledge and a great teacher. Merry Christmas to you too! Have a wonderful holiday. - Jacob S.
Howdy again. Another great vid...thanks. Just starting with .30-30 reloading, and you say how to adjust the die(2:45-3:00) but how would I know if the crimp is too tight or not? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks. Lee's website gives no info regarding this.
Douglas Snyder - With your 30/30, the purpose of the crimp is to prevent bullet movement in the cases during compression in tube magazine and during action cycling. One test would be to fully load the magazine, and when the last round is chambered, instead of shooting it, eject it and check the bullet. If still in position, then your crimp is fine. You could also compare your crimp with the factory crimp under magnification. You really don't need too heavy a crimp with your 30/30, neck tension is number one in ammo integrity. Have a great day, FC Steve
Hi Steve, thanks for the response. I also called Lee this morning and the guy said there is no definitive answer due to different case wall thicknesses, bullet diameters and gun chamber differences, but after raising the ram, and screwing down the die to meet it, another half turn to 3/4 of a turn should be sufficient. He also said the collet will only go so tight, and that there is little danger in over crimping and causing the casing to exceed pressure limits, which I was most concerned about.
Great video. quick question on the taper crimp. I have read that there is some sort of "Glock" Bulge that reloading .40 is a challenge. I have used the lee dies since day one (including the crimp die), never had a problem. Does this take care of the "bulge"?
+Dos Vasko's Farms -- To get rid of the entire bulge, you will need the Lee Bulge Buster that is used with the factory crimp die to run the entire case through to eliminate the bulge. Works well... Best to ya, FC
I'm interested in the Lee collet crimp die for 45/70 but already have a three die set and have loaded six or seven hundred rounds...Can I buy the Lee collet die separate? Apparently if I crimp my rounds with the Lee it will have to be after seating the bullet with my present seating die with the" crimping" part backed off and only the seating part utilized. This will add a step to every 45/70 round I load, correct? Is it worth the extra step?Thanks for the video...Subbed.
+towerhillbilly -- The Lee FCDs are available as separate dies for purchase. This is because many users of other manufacturer die sets like the Lee FCDs to do the crimping as a separate 4th die - and they function well with any of the other die sets... Good reloadin' to ya, FC
I shoot 45 acp from semi-auto and a from a revolver. I haven't had any problem using either and I only crimp with the die design for the semi-auto pistols. Any thoughts on this? My revolver uses moon clips so I suspect that since it doesn't depend on the case mouth to headspace, it works fine.
Jerry Golden -- Congrats on your hardware -Your revolver sounds like a 1917 Colt or S & W both fine guns or perhaps the S&W 625. But it's a good thing you don't roll crimp - the crimper for your auto pistol reloading does the taper crimp and that works well for revolvers also - especially since the round headspaces on the case mouth even in revolvers like the Ruger Blackhawk Convertibles. The moon clip allows the 45 ACP to be shot in chambers that have no case mout shoulders. Best to ya, FC
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
An in-depth comparison, the information You give here is not found Anywhere else except Manuals and passed on information from our Predecessors! Great Stuff F.C.,Thank You
I find that I return to your videos when I have a specific question about reloading. You do a great job explaining why we need to do what needs to be done. Thanks for your excellent instructions.
Once again Cookie, great job of explaining a complicated and confusing subject. Gotta love Lee products. They have a solution for every budget and every problem. Always a great value.
This is what a good video represents; explaining/clarifying a topic which has some confusion associated to it, with clear precise information along with instructional demonstrations.
Good work FC
Logjam5 And thank you for taking the time to post this comment... much appreciated. Best Regards
I bought Lee equipment to save money thinking I would upgrade later. I've never upgraded. I have loaded great ammo with my Lee reloading equipment. I've been very happy with all of the ammo I've loaded both rifle and handgun. Love the crimp die for 30 30. All I've ever loaded is better than than any factory with the exception of federal gold medal match which is equal to hand loaded ammo.
I agree. Lee has some innovative equipment, and it is very reasonably priced. Also, Lee's customer service is second to none. I have to admit that all of the major manufacturers that I have dealt with in over 50 years of reloading have produced good products.
I'm reloading .44 Magnum/.38spl/9mm & .380ACP. Your videos & time shared to assist is really appreciated, thank you
FortuneCookie, first off, I gotta say... I love your videos. They are a fantastic resource for reloaders of all skill levels. OK, now that that's over with, I gotta add... I also am a big fan of the Lee FCD in the various flavors. I see soooooo very much hate on the various reloading forums about the FCD, most of which is completely unjustified. There is one argument against it, though, that I do think has some merit *under certain specific circumstances*. If you are reloading for a semi-auto pistol, and you are using a slightly oversized bullet that is also slightly soft, some guys argue that the carbide sizing insert will squeeze the bullet, reducing its diameter. The brass has some spring-back to it, so now you have a bullet with a slightly reduced diameter sitting in the case. This (according to "them") can cause reduced neck tension, causing various problems. I have never used a bullet that would put me in this situation, so I don't know if it's a valid argument or not, but it is at least something for guys that use the FCD for semi-auto pistols to be aware of. But as I mentioned, I am a *huge* fan of the FCD. Thanks again for another fantastic video, FC.
floorpizza - Thanks for your comment. For whatever reason, the haters of the FCD do not fully regard the concept of the FCD. The problem is as follows: Everyone is right. But users of the Lee CFCDs have to understand that the die is not intended to run 45ACP rounds through so that they will chamber in a 40 cal (of course this is an overstatement only to make a point). If there is any wholesale resizing of the final rounds happening, what those shooters point out will come to pass. The FCD was designed to iron out irregularities that would impede functioning, not size down oversized rounds. And it's really simple to determine - all according to Richard Lee's design when you see his instructions - 1) The TL bullets are cast and prepared for reloading with no sizing of the bullets required 2) The ammo is loaded, remove the mouth flare 3) Drop the rounds into the chamber and if they chamber easily or with slight finger pressure and readily extractable, they are OK to proceed 4) Run the rounds through the FCD to apply the final taper or roll crimp. If 3) the rounds require much pressure to seat, the bullets need to be sized. And 4) when the round goes through the FCD, only intermittent bulges being ironed out should be felt - If instead, bigger "zones" of resizing equal to the entire bearing surface of the bullet, are felt, or if any "bullet pull out" is experienced, neck tension is being lost for exactly the reasons you mention. The bullets need to be sized. ( Note, Lee FCDs are obviously useful for but not necessary for loading jacketed bullets.) And when those sized bullets are loaded, the FCD feel of bulges being corrected will assure smooth functioning and revolver feeding with that "drop in snick" that shooter love. When other brands of seater / crimpers are used, occasional rounds hang up on feeding requiring digital assurance of round seating - you see this all the time (of course, this needs to be differentiated from fouled cylinders or chambers causing same). Best to ya, FC
Hey, Fortune Cookie! I had a .38/357 Magnum Lee FCD, and gave up on using it several years ago. I thought I had sold it, but found it! Covid boredom...I watched your FCD video, and, I figure I just didn't know how to use it. Thank you! I will re think my bias against the FCD, and probably live happily ever after!
Anytime i need to know something or have some problem this channel is the first place i look. I have most of the reloading manuals ( Lee is the worst. Very confusing way of writing - maybe its just me) but Cookie knows how to explain things better, buy far! Thank you, sir
I have lee dies on all my auto reloads. Really something I couldn't do without after using. Cheap and effective. I'm surprised nobody else has one from some of the other big company's.
Michael John - Have you noticed some shooters do an extra finger push to make sure their rounds are in their revolver cylinders? It is because 1) they don't use the LFCD or 2) they've already shot 200 rounds and their chambers are fouled a bit with powder residue. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays..!! FC
I have only been reloading for the last five years but in that time i have reloaded for my auto loaders both in pistol and rifle , bolt action rifles and my auto loader pistols. Are used to just use the regular dies with their taper crimp until I started reloading my Glock . Everything changed after that as I'm sure you well know the peculiarities of Glocked brass and their unsupported feed ramps... bulge city 😐.
After that I looked up the best remedy for said brass and LFCD,s were the suggestion , I bought one and was very happy with the results. I even ran old rounds made only with normal 3 taper dies and found out that they corrected these problem rounds. I'm a convert now and have bought one for every caliber that I use. I highly suggest anyone that is getting into or anyone that reloads to try these you won't be disappointed. Thanks for posting your video and have a Merry Christmas. All the best to you and your family..
PS everyone please support your local gun range and NRA !
Michael John - Thanks for your posting... You will find that the LFCDs work as advertised, but there will be the rare instance of bullet pull out from their use...happens when the bullets are way oversize and the LFCD does major squeezing correction of the big size of the bullet in the seated case = case spring back and loss of bullet tension = the bullet pulls out with taper crimp LFCDs. Does not happen when the LFCD is used as intended - for minor corrections of bulges that might impair feeding. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC
@@FortuneCookie45LC I already have all of the the die sets that I need.
Unfortunately, they all have the old style crimp dies.
But it IS nice to know that if/when I can afford to upgrade, I can still buy the factory crimp die separate.
I DO have them for my rifle dies, but not for pistol.
That might need to be my next upgrade...🤔
Thanks for taking the time to explain this.
Great little primer. I only buy Lee 4 die sets now when I know I will need crimped rounds. They are just so much easier to use and a great buy. Thank you for taking the time to post the video.
+Michael McNamara - And the free shell holder is a nice touch. Seems other reloading companies recently went with that - all about market share...Have a great day, FC
I set my Factory Crimp Die for .30-30 a little differently. I screwed the die down to touch the shell holder as you said, and stopped right there. I put the prepared cartridge in the shell holder and raised the ram all the way, lowered it, and checked the crimp. There was none, so I turned the die in a little and ran the cartridge again. I repeated that until I got the crimp I wanted. It was only one more step, as I recall, less than 1/4 turn total. The crimps are beautifully consistent.
You make the confusing choice of die brands and sets so easy. Thank you.
Nice vid....explains what I needed to understand on the rifle side. Just sold me on the Lee factory crimp for rifle. Thank you from Australia. Stay well during these crazy times!
Novice reloader here. I now have a better understanding of the final crimping process thanks to you. The crimping process is a delicate one I thought, but this took a bit of the mystery out of it for me. If I understand correctly, this final die will not only crimp but also give a "final" calibration to your cartridge dimensions, beyond the original resizing.
Walter Palmer - Right you are...some think that the Lee FCD sizes the final round, but if you use it, you will find that it really takes out minor bulges and imperfections that would cause problems in function and chambering. There is no wholesale sizing being done, nor should it be done... I have other videos on these dies that will add more information. Have a great day, FC
Hey steve... Long time loader, caster and fellow powder coater here. Love your videos! Be well my brother...
Hello FortuneCookie45LC.
I know that this video was posted several years ago but I just started using the Lee Hand Press today.
Your directions were exactly what I needed to help me get started with the reloading.
I was not sure if I had a crimp die or how to use one until I found this instructional video.
I do indeed have the correct crimp die with the Lee die set that I received today. I used it to load 50 rounds of 300 Savage.
Thank you for your great instructions.
Dale
After reloading 45 LCD with this crimp die the round fit better in my vequaro better then most factory loads lee are the only crimp dies I will use for all my different calibers good stuff brother
jayboney el toro - Thanks for posting comment..!! One thing though, bro is that if the bullet is a cast bullet and way oversized, the factory crimp die will squeeze it down (you can feel this excessive pressure when you run the press) and you will actually lose tension of the bullet in the round...But if this happens, it simply means that the bullets need to be sized to the correct diameter for your gun. The FCD was not designed to size cartridges, but only to remove bulges and irregularities that may impede chambering. When thus used, they are mighty fine indeed...Good reloadin' to ya, FC
Hey Mr Cookie... Nice job on the Lee crimp die descriptions and rudimentary set up. In one video you were able to answer all my concerns for 38spcl, 9mm, 45acp,and my 223/5.56 rounds! Nicely done!
Thanks for a clear and easy to understand explanation.
The collet type dies for bottleneck cases are great especially for autoloaders. A must have.
The carbide type for straight wall cases, less so, but they do function as a maximum cartridge dimension check, which is something. I buckled a couple of new 10mm cases using the standard LEE crimp die. I then switched to the carbide die and it ironed the bulge out mostly.
It's nice to see (or hear) my Chinese brothers getting way into shooting and handloading! I have just got my FOB father in law hooked up with his first rifle, and he loves it!
chouyi007 What rifle did you help him get? The first rifle is always an interesting process...Have a great day
Very comprehensive -- well done.
There is a back story to the creation of Lee Factory Crimp dies. The story is told by Richard Lee himself in his second edition Modern Reloading Manual ( all reloaders should own a copy) . I won't spoil the story but I will just leave you with a teaser that many big reloading companies were very upset with Lee when he came out with his Factory Crimp dies to the point of trying to put him out of business.
+Vengenace Early -- I am so sorry to have missed this great comment - when Google does not post a comment in my inbox - I will miss it every time...The other companies first started getting really upset with Lee when he came out with his carbide sizing dies, just as good at half the price of the competition. We all wanted the carbide to save the hassle of lubing handgun brass, that any reasonable price would be paid. How glad we were when Lee's definition of reasonable was a lot lower than the other companies idea of reasonable!! Same thing happened again with Lee bullet molds. Thanks to you, we know the reaction to Lee Factory Crimp Dies... Have a great day, FC
Hi FC-- Yes Lee is the best in many areas.
As you know many well known companies were bought out by very large conglomerates about 10 plus years ago. That is why there is very little innovation from them. They should have been able to beat Lee a long time ago in price and quality. But IMHO they are too top heavy and just don't have the drive of Lee.
+Vengenace Early -- Lee is still a family run business - Andy Lee is the great grandson of Richard Lee and heads up the casting division. Have a great day, FC
Two thumbs up!!! Nice video. I bought my first Lee set on 7.62 x 25 tokarev for my CZ52,following your opinion on this product, and it is an awesome value. Thanks FC.
Thanks. This helped me out a lot. I began reloading 9mm with a Lee hand press about 6 months ago and upgraded to a Dillon 550b. I kept the Lee dies but began having problems with the cartridges feeding into my G19. When I inserted a magazine and racked a round into the chamber the slide would not go fully forward. I adjusted the Lee factory crimp die the way you suggested and the rounds are now going into battery just fine.
The fact that resizing was taking place at this 4th stage was news to me. It’s easy to visualize de-capping, re-priming, belling, seating-but the resizing is harder to grasp. Thanks again for the help.
Thank you for taking the time to explain all this, very informative and helpful.
I am new reloader, and just bought this after watched this video. Thanks!!!
robert shinenne - Thanks for your comment, and congrats on getting the FCD... Note, the FCD carbide rings do not resize the entire case like the full length size die does...what the FCD does is resize the whole case in terms of removing bulges that would cause feeding issues...Squeezing down the whole loaded round is not happening unless a cast bullet was really on the huge side. If so, those bullets should be sized before loading... Good reloadin' to ya... FC
Wow, thanks for taking your time to explain this to me, it's much needed as me a noob here :d. anyway. It helped me fix some of my 9mm reloads with powder coated lead bullets that have a little belly where the case openning is. But now, every one is easily fitted into my gauge. Thanks again!
Checking this out in 2021. Thank you for clearly explaining the differences between the different styles of crimping dies.
This video was well make and explains the concept of the Lee Factory Crimp Die offerings. I have the dies and they work very well in my reloading. Again very good job!!!!
+Majeskty -- And thanks for taking the time to post this... Best Regards, FC
Have been battling the crimp on my RCBS 9mm dye for a while now. Lee Factory Carbide Dye sets for sure. Thank you for the advice.
I wish that this presenter included the following statement in his presentation: “Note, Lee FCDs are obviously useful for but not necessary for loading jacketed bullets.” He did say exactly that in a parenthetical statement in a response to another comment here. I did not realize that the *carbide* FCD was specifically designed for use with potentially oversized (albeit very slightly) cast bullets. Now I understand the origin and functionality of the FCD. For un-sized cast lead bullets the FCD makes complete sense (at last).
I have a question for FCD users: does the crimp adjustment ever drift while you are reloading? There doesn’t appear to be a way to lock in the stem that sets the location of the crimping sleeve. (My first press is a single-stage Hornady LNL with their nifty die bushings for quick changes. Every once in a while I have a bushing that drifts loose and causes problems.)
I started using a separate crimp die long ago. If the crimp is applied by the seater die, the bullet is moving downward while the crimp is being applied. I prefer to seat the bullet completely, then apply a crimp to a stationary bullet. I also think it’s much easier to adjust a separate crimp die than it is to add a crimp adjustment to the very important seating die adjustments. However, I have never had a need to re-size a case *after* seating a bullet. Yes, sometimes there are very small, unsightly bulges where the base of a bullet sits inside the case but I have never had a malfunction or failure to load because of one. If I see too big a bulge, I stop and figure out what is going wrong with my seating process.
Thanks for explaining this. I am a pretty green reloader whose gathering the tools necessary to to load for my .35 rem Marlin 336 and it’ll be the first round I’ll have loaded that’ll require crimping. My other dies are all RCBS, but I am most likely going to go with a lee pacesetter set simply due to it coming with the factory crimp die which seems fool-proof comparatively to other die sets way of crimping
I didn’t know Christopher walked had a reloading channel, I’m subscribing!
I had the same problem with a set of 9mm Lee dies. The carbide sizing die didn’t always size the bottom portion of some cases. This resulted in some cartridges getting stuck and not fully chambering in my automatics. I switched to a set of RCBS 9mm dies with a carbide sizing die and this solved the problem.
Love the channel! He really breaks it down ! Thanks again for taking the time to make this video
Thanks for your time in making this video. Also, I'd like to add that part of my interest in starting reloading in the 9 mm is to get comfortable with the process, and eventually purchase a 45.70 where the reloading skill will be of a greater savings benefit.
Walter Palmer - Sounds like a good policy - Google did not post your comment in my inbox, and when that happens, I don't see 'em for months... Best to ya, FC
You're the best- FC.
Great Job. I've been using them for pistol rounds and they are almost required for my semi-autos. To a certain degree they ensure the bullet cases are uniform as well. Looks like the rifle design is a little different, but simple nonetheless.
Thank you for this information, I was looking to see how to use the Lee Rifle Crimp die and now I know how all of them work!
New to your site and You tube, in general. Love your work. Been loading for years but quit for a while. Have trouble with all the hate from the dillon people. I don't have the money for a dillon set up. As I did without for years, I wouldn't likely spend that much. My Lee stuff works fine, no problems. I stay within my finances.
I don’t know what the odds are that you will see this comment per the age of this vid but I am trying to find some info. I just picked up a box of Hornady 230gn in .451” to load for a .45 Colt Henry lever rifle. I didn’t realize the 230gn was for 45 acp. I’m trying to figure out how to taper crimp these for use in the 45 Colt. Just use the 45 acp crimp die maybe?
Appreciate all your content from the east coast!
I use the Lee FCD in all my auto loading cartridges. Love them!
ipdjbt That's a great affirmation for the Lee FCDs... Have a great day.
Your videos rock. I've learned a lot by watching all your videos. Keep up the good work.
Exactly what I was looking for. Once again another outstanding video. Thank you sir.
Great video. I also like the Lee crimp dies. Sure, it's one extra step but worth it. I use mine with my Lee 160 gn cast bullet mold for the 7.62 x 39 cartridges. Very consistent and, (in my opinion), more accurate than the other crimps. You are the encyclopedia of gun info. I always love to see your videos pop-up so I can watch and learn. Thanks again!
therealrg Wow, that's very kind of you to post this comment. It is greatly appreciated. I have a Lyman Loverin bullet for the 7.62x39 and a nice lighter load that shoots accurately from my SKS rifles. The rifles though, have a bad habit of losing brass, so I just shoot my surplus ammo as a rule. 7.62 x 39 ammo is starting to become available again, and it's still fairly cheap (not as cheap as before when the Chinese stuff was available). Someday I'll whip out that Lyman mold again, but I sure like my Lee 6 cavity jobs...Best Regards to you
I loaded some 45-70 today, my Lee seating dye wouldn't crimp the case enough, I ordered one of these hopefully this solves my problem.
I really enjoy your videos very informational I have only been reloading for about two and a half years recently loading for 44 mag 44 spl and 357 Magnum and 38spl but your information helps me most when I am thinking about cast bullets thanks for all information!!
Great video, this clears up a lot of confusion I had about which dies to buy for 10mm and 357
Rob A. - At the time, there wasn't any video on YT that brought this out. I haven't checked on this since though. Best to ya, FC Steve
Ya there's quite a few but a lot don't go into great detail like you do. When I started doing 9mm and 223 I just bought Hornady thinking they were all basically the same. Now I'm paying more attention and I'm trying to figure out if I want to do seat and crimp in the same step. My 9mm turn out ok with the Hornady dies, but I think for 357 and 10mm I'm going to do the crimp in a separate step with the Lee dies (at least for the hotter loads). Now it's just a question of figuring out which sets do taper and which do rolled...looking on Amazon they don't say, and checking Lee's site it doesn't say for the 4 die sets which crimp it does. Guess I'll just order and hope the 357 is rolled and the 10mm is tapered.
Great explanation of the working of the Lee Crimp Die. I own one and use exclusively on my 7mm mag.
David DeBlois Ah, the 7mm Rem Magnum!! I remember that rascal when it was first introduced, and a noted gun writer took a M700 ADL in that caliber and went after big game... I was just in high school and my priorities at the time were the 3 Gs - grades, guns and girls - Mr. Lovisone called us all "the punk kids".
Do you have a video on bullet seating? I'm an avid handloader myself and love to learn as much as I can about the art. Currently reloading 7 mm mag, 44 mag, 357 mag, and 38 spl.
David DeBlois Since you are an experienced reloader, not much that you don't already know...Unless you are dealing with long nose Keith bullet's, reloaders can generally use the crimping grooves and cannelures to set seating depth. And with our bolt guns, we want the bullets back of the rifling by .006-.009" for a good rule of thumb. Yes, there are multiple videos uploaded featuring the bullets seating... Have a great day
Another excellent and well explained video I wish I'd seen before I made my last purchase, lol. I got a 4 die set for 9mm and thought I knew what I was doing, but I now know I just got lucky! I've since bought 3 die sets for .45acp and .38/.357 but haven't started loading them. I guess I'm taking the walk of shame (maybe I can disguise it by looking for powder too!) back into the store to buy the FCD now that I truly understand the BSFD and FCD. I really enjoy watching your videos. I learn so much from you because you take the time to show and explain how and why things are done. Well done sir!
fisoxlt Thank you for your valuable comment...the first time I used a Lee FCD and felt the die hesitate and grab a portion of a loaded round going into the die, it was an eye opening event. You can load good ammo without the FCD, but when it is used, you just don't give chambering issues any mind at all. Of course seating depth remains a consideration for auto pistols, but the FCD sure does a great job...Best Regards to you
Lee Prrcision makes some pretty good stuff. Their customer support is excellent. What more can you ask?
Great information. I have Lee crimp dies and won’t do it any other way after ruining too many 30-30 cases, lol.
Fantastically informative video. Would like a discussion - for the auto rounds - how much crimp is enough ? I'm sure you've discussed this -- link please ?
I think the LFC die provides the best crimp I've ever seen and the uniformity in neck tension over conventional roll crimping does result in tighter groups. When I use the LFC dies I apply the crimp 3 times and rotate the case approx 120 degrees each time for an absolutely smooth homogeneous crimp each & every time. No more bulges & tight spots when running new reloads through the case checking gauge because of roll crimping over length cases.
bushed274 - Lee doesn't provide enough in their instruction sheets, though. The LFCD works well when there isn't severe sizing happening with its use. If so, the neck tension is actually being lost as the bullet swages down and the case springs back off of it. The detractors of the LFCDs make a big point of this, but when the die just produces momentary bulge corrections = that's the way the die was designed to work. If so, it indeed, is the best crimp in the business... Best to ya, FC Steve
I've just been using my Lee factory crimp dies on cartridge cases with cannelures so the only displacement has been the ring of crimped brass into the cannelure groove.
Thanks for this video. The have explained the crimp die better than any one else. I have just upgraded my reloading press to a load master, and was wondering if I should get a factory crimp die for the fifth station. And I wasnt sure about it, until now. Thanks again.
SamLFisher The LFCD will serve you well in that station. The carbide sizer assures good functioning in your firearm of choice, and works very well for cast bullets. If you load jacketed or plated bullets for autoloaders, the plain taper crimp dies will do very well for you as you will not encounter bullets that are a bit oversize. Please let me know how the FCD does for you. Best Regards
Thanks for doing these videos you have been alot of help for someone like me just starting out reloading well done sir
very good information. thank you for explaining the function of the crimp die. can't wait to use mine!
I just purchased the Carbide, Lee Factory Crimp die for 9mm. I've been using an RCBS 2 die set for reloading in a Dillon XL 650. It's odd, only using 2 dies, and in my opinion, the RCBS carbide die set actually undersizes the brass. That's ok, it flares it back out and it's fine.
I'm an old salt reloader.. I have zero problems with all other calibers, but the 9mm die set, I've been crimping at the same time as seating, and you have to get it just exactly right, or it'll crimp too early as it's seating, causing the round to compress and you end up with a slightly buckled or squished case.
I just got the crimp die in the mail today... I haven't used it yet and I'm use to the rifle factory crimp dies sold by Lee. They make some amazing stuff, and I have even replaced some of my RCBS with the Lee die sets. I love their 4-piece 45ACP die set.. Amazing quality and I love the fact that you can simply re-adjust the dies with your fingers and they stay locked in place and do not move.
Never used the Lee pistol die set before. You put out a good quality video on it, and I'm going to sub. Thank you! I reload 2-3 thousand rounds of pistol every month. Lots of 9mm, lots of 45, and bucket loads of 10mm. (yes, I'm a tremendous fan of the 10mm caliber.. god's gift to pistol hunters like myself) I will likely get this factory crimp die for all caliber pistols. I already use the Lee Factory Crimp die in 308 and 5.56, as well as a few other calibers.. I was just shocked to open the container and find the pistol caliber crimp did not have the compression collet .. that's what I was expecting.
Thanks Fortune Cookie! You're great!
+Poppa Bear --As you have found, the Lee pistol carbide factory crimp dies do not have the collets; In addition, the Lee rifle factory crimp dies have the collets but do not have the carbide. There are good reasons for this as the crimping requirements of the calibers they crimp are different. Suffice to say that all the Lee Factory Crimp Dies provide the "Best Crimp in the Business" This is FC45LC language and Lee should use that in their advertising - the many users of these dies, including you and I, would agree wholeheartedly and without equivocation. Sure, Lee reloading dies lack the all steel and finer finished "quality". That winds up in the eye of the beholder only. I do not fault those fans of RCBS, Lyman, Hornady or Redding at all as those are also fine die sets (and I have some of those as well). Lee does not provide some of the more featured bullet seater dies, nor the fine neck sizing dies that other manufacturers produce. However, the Lee Neck Collet Sizing Dies have some brilliant performance...I have videos up on all these issues. Plus, the Lee dies deliver outstanding performance and the highest value in the industry for reloading dies. Each reloader is free to agree or disagree with any of this. But Lee is the market share leader in reloading. Good reloadin' to ya, FC
FortuneCookie45LC thanks for reply!
The only issue I've ever had with Lee dies, is reloading 45ACP.. When I flare the cartridge on the Dillon XL650, the flare can be a bit much... I really have to watch what I'm doing, because that flare will cut into the seating die.. I hear and can feel it, and little tiny bits of aluminum scrape off and I'm sure it gets between the brass and the bullet. No failures yet, but it's a concern.. The aluminum on the outside of the die just simply scrapes off.. I just decrease the size of the flare, and most of the problem goes away.
Thanks again for the response! Cheers!
+Poppa Bear --It's possible to flare the case mouth so excessively that the expanded mouth will not even enter the crimping die. As I recall, some of my older dies from Herter's, Lyman, and RCBS did have some kind of plating on them that would come off as little specks when seating bullets. But those old dies have been replaced and the newer ones including Lee don't lose any material from the die bodies. I'm almost sure those old platings were not aluminum. Best Regards to ya, FC
I've been using Lee Dies and presses since I started reloading. I also use Hornady and RCBS, but the Lee equipment is by far my favorite.
W Tom - Lee makes good stuff (with some rare exceptions) at high value. My first carbide die was a Lyman, but when Lee came along with their carbide dies for 1/2 the price - it was almost too good to be true...Been using Lee stuff ever since, along with RCBS and Lyman with some Hornady. Got my first item from Redding (after all these years of reloading) recently. Have a great day, FC Steve
Hey Steve, I see by some of your other videos, we shoot at the same range. I live nearby. Let me know if you'd like to shoot together some time.
I was worried about over-crimping, but you say not to worry or worry less about it. I'm reloading 9 mm and some say not to crimp, but some return of the flare must be necessary.
You can over crimp any round but this crimp die really makes it very hard to do so. I reload auto pistols and it's very important to make sure you get a proper crimp on them. From what I understand and have experienced .. I use the normal 3 set but I use zero taper crimp and only use it for seating depth. After that I let the LFCD do the rest and I get great results every time. Good luck 👍
***** Thanks Michael
Nice job, FC45LC...well thought out and delivered with finesse!
LMO MechTech Thanks Larry for being a fantastic denizen of the HLZ!!
Always wondered what the difference were between the assortment of crimp dies. Thanks.
1717jbs And thank you for taking the time to post... Have a great day
Excellent video my brotha! Thank you! :-)
jiujitsu2000 And thanks to you, friend jiujitsu2000!!
Once again you have delivered a great sermon on Lee factory crimp die's,and I want one for my .223/5.56 reloading! YOU ROCK FC45LC!!!...
Eric Laird - Thanks, Eric for your enthusiasm...!! A crimp really helps for ammo we are running through our semi-auto 223 / 5.56 rifles. And the Lee factory crimp die really serves us well. Good reloadin' to ya, FC Steve
The Lee Factory crimp makes a huge difference in the consistency of my practice rounds. :)
SurgeonWithAGun - We definitely like that and like those dies as well...Have a great day, FC Steve
You are a scholar and a gentleman. :)
DEAR FORTUNE COOKIE HELP - lee liquid alox!!!!!!
I have just started casting. Wanting to get my .45ACP "right". So far am happy with the results.
powder
2. The Lee resize bulletin says you have to "lube" the bullets before running them through the sizer?
So question is what is the correct way if you want to discard Liquid Alox?
a. Cast
b. Powder Coat
c. Resize
Or;
a. Cast
b. Resize
c. Powder Coat?
I am sure you ave answered this already but I don't see a video that is clear on the subject (yet). I will be so grateful for a pointer.
Best wishes from SOUTH AFRICA
Boerseun
Lee has two types of Factory Crimp Dies, one thaqt is carbide style and one that is collet styled. The Carbide sizer part straightens the cases back up when the crimp part bulges the cases from the downward force of the die upon the case neck. The Collect Style crimp die does not apply downward pressure but rather inward pressure of which does not buckle the case creating a bulge that would then need ironing out. If this is true the carbide part of the die fixes what the downward pressure crimp part messes up, whereby I call it a gimmick of sorts because it does not really solve the problem, but rather patches it over. All that work hardening the brass is not good either. Better to just not cause an issue as apposed to patching it back up I would think.
Again The Lee Collect Style crimp die never buckles the case whereby never needing to fix its own fuct-ups, as the downward forcing Lee Carbide Factory Style crimp dies do. Ergo with the Collect Style crimp dies there is never a need for the carbide ring, period. So if you see my point being Lee has the Collet Style crimp dies why would they sell a Carbide crimp die that messes up the brass only to turn around and solve its own issues, other than to act as if it is the crimp die of crimp dies of sort that everyone should have(?). That is why I call it a gimmick crimp die. Makes no sense when the Collet Style crimp die exist, right?
Be sure and watch Lee's own videos on their Factory Carbide Style crimp dies:
1) ruclips.net/video/0rjlUH25DyM/видео.html
And their Factory Collet Style crimp dies (of which they have both /roll and a taper types):
2) ruclips.net/video/vo7p4k36swI/видео.html
Congrats for the great video and thanks for time you spent putting this helpful and clarifying information together!
--Leandro Ruas - And thank you for taking the time to post comment...Now, where did I put my Lee Universal Decapping Die? Hmmm.... Best to ya, FC
Thanks i was confused about these dies and what they do
I paid for RBCS $ 59 for LEE $ 79 But I have a problem with Crimping when using RBCS Die, there is always a harmonica, which is a wave on the neck.
Now I'll start using Lee
Yep the Lee factory crimp die is the best on the market. lee makes quality products for a great price.
TRprepper - I really like my Lee FCDs...Good reloadin' to ya
Hi FourtuneCookie ,
I run a Hornady AP Press and mostly Lee Carbide dies -thanks to your excellent videos on Lee.
I am current using the Hornady powder case activated dispenser that comes with AP press and had to get the PTX add-on to expand brass & through powder on one station. It works but not optimum solution.
Is there a way to use the Lee Carbide expanding die (9mm) with the Hornady case activate powder dispenser ?
I have some 65+ year-old Pattersen Mgf. (Culver City, CA., LONG GONE) taper crimp dies for .45 ACP and .38 Super that do a BETTER than factory job of securing the bullet in the case for semi-auto 1911A design pistols. I've having a machinist friend duplicate them for my new SIG 10mm auto. I crimp my .308's because they are also used in a automatic rifle. For target or hunting with a bolt-action or Ruger #1 falling block rifle I NEVER crimp my case necks to avoid "work-hardening" the brass. I use a 1950's RCBS case lathe to turn the necks to safe thickness/length for consistency.
I use the carbide factory crimp die on my jacketed projectiles and have been very satisfied doing so…but…since I size my cast lead boolits to fit the cylinder sleeves and barrel diameters at +.001 to .002 inch oversize the 'carbide' model will squeeze that extra diameter back down to standard bore sizes as in the .45 ACP @ .451-2 and it negates all the 'slug work' I did to properly match the cast rounds to the particular weapon it will be used in. Have you taken any of these cast rounds apart and measured the projectile to see what this carbide die really does to cast projectiles?
+Charles Irby -- Interesting - I just did a video on "Does the Lee Factory Crimp Die Swage Bullets and Lose Neck Tension?" And I did pull bullets and measure them - the gist of it is when the Lee CFCD functions as it was designed to do, the rounds go into the die and we only feel spots of resistance when bulges are being corrected - we don't feel any wholesale swaging or sizing happening. When we get that, we pull the bullets and find that no swaging of the bullet has occurred. If we are getting some definite sizing action, the bullet is being swaged and neck tension is being lost. That is the one main complaint that those who are critical of the FCD have, but in all the many many times I've used FCDs, I've only had that happen during one reloading session of the 45 ACP. And that amount of sizing and loss of tension has not happened again.
Excellent video. Very informative. Thanks!
Kurt Jeffery - Thanks to you for taking the time to post comment...and Good reloadin' to ya, FC
Thanks for your videos. New loader here, you have helped me a ton.
obie wan - And congrats on reloading - it's the best way to really enjoy your shooting... Best to ya, FC Steve
I have a question for you: I inadvertently ended up with both the Lee factory crimp die and the Redding taper crimp die for loading 6.5 Creedmoor. I have crimped 10 cartridges with each die and will be comparing them at the range on Saturday. Have you used a taper crimp die like the Redding die and if so, what's your opinion about the results compared to the Lee die?
Have a 44 Magnum 94 Winchester, do I need a roll crimp or taper crimp in a tubular magazine?
Love the crimp dies. I think it helps with more consistent velocities too.
I have one rifle in .222rem that shoots quite a bit better with crimps.
holdengr Ahhh - the 222 Rem. - one of the sweet shooters that gets very little mention nowadays...That and the 222 Rem Mag led to the development of the 223. Thanks for posting on your 222 Rem and crimps... Best to ya....
I have an extra Lyman die that I don't really use (Neck size die for 223) and I'm going to use that ring to replace the Lee if it fits.
+fractal_force -- That Lyman die can still have great use for 223 bolt gun reloading - might want to oil it up nice before you put that away... Best to ya... FC
+FortuneCookie45LC good point. Thanks
Should we only be crimping bullets with cannelures? Can we put a taper crimp on a non cannelured bullet?
So I got Lyman 9Mm Luger Carbide 3 Die Set and I'm using the Lee for the factory crimp die
+fractal_force -- That's a good way to go - and many do just that with all the other die sets from RCBS, Hornady, Lyman Have a great day.... FC
Any reason why that's better than the lower cost of getting the full Lee (cheaper) set, and only getting the RCBS for the one die, the sizing/de-primer, sincethe de-priming pin on a Lee isn't removeable, and the RCBS is, and has the carbide feature as well?
+Dixon Micucci -- Richard Lee was the first one that made carbide dies affordable...the other makers charged an arm and a leg for carbide dies back in the day. And now Lee does not offer only one, but two carbide dies in those 4 die sets you mention - and at a lower price than the competition, plus shellholder and powder scoop thrown in. Only recently has Hornady included a shellholder. If you go with Lee 4 die sets, you don't need anything extra - and the Lee sizer deprimer die is one of the best - the decapping pin is integral with the depriming stem - replacements are cheap - I have those, but never need to put them in as the Lee decap pins don't break - the rod just backs out and you reposition it and retighten - back in operation. Good reloadin' to ya, FC
Bloody awesome video from a very knowledgeable bloke!!!! Thanks very much mate, this has explained heaps to me and I will be sure to put that info to good use. Happy shooting !!!!!!
Question from your friend from the East Coast. Do you know what crip die can be use for 8mm nambu pistol? I converted 357 sig brass into 8mm nambu. it's lots of work, but works fine and now I have a nice shooter than an expensive paper weight. The issue I'm having is that I'm not able to crip. Do you If a different caliber cripping die can work for the 8mm nambu? Thanks in advance.
+Alejandro Mendoza -- That Nambu pistol of yours is a prized war souvenir. Some convert 40 cal brass to Nambu, but of course, the 357 Sig can be readily used. As I recall, there are reloading die sets available for the Nambu, but they don't sell that well. I checked and RCBS makes a set - pricey though. But there is a crimp die in there that can do just a little crimp like a taper crimp to full roll crimp. The Nambu headspaces on the shoulder so you can roll crimp your bullets. And Nambu bullets aren't easy to find either, so you'll probably have to cast and size for the Nambu...these things you are already aware - Good reloadin' to ya, FC
Great video and cleared some things up. I like the Lee dies, great quality and value.
fatmantolly Thanks for the comment...and have a great day...
Great video and great information
I`ve always liked the Lee crimp dies.
1957Shep You and I and hundreds of thousands of shooters worldwide like the Lee crimp dies...Best Regards to 1957Shep and I'm looking forward to more videos from ya...
Yeah me too i noticed my auto loader rounds ran way better with one of these. The case mouths last allot longer with the taper crimp as well. I noticed the roll crimp seemed to over work the brass and it would split sooner
Patmclean232 One great way to not have concerns for split necks though is to have jugs and jugs of brass (accumulated free from ranges - picked up discreetly, of course) in all our shooting calibers on hand - all wet tumbled clean and ready to load...I haven't been concerned about brass supplies in the last 40 years, and I've even bought brass from companies like USA Brass and East Coast Armory on occasion when I really wanted to boost my 44 magnum and 45 Colt stockpiles...Best Regards
Yeah im starting to get a decent collection of brass in the calibers ive had for a while. Friends of mine know i reload so they get brass and wheel weights for me every chance they get(as long as i take them shooting once in a while). There are certain calibers i have that are harder to come across 380, 45acp, 357mag, and especially 303 btit. I have piles of 9mm and 40s&w. I dont think ill ever run out of those two at this point lol
Patmclean232 For me, it's calibers like 45 Colt and 45/70, and yes 303 British - But that's where companies like USA Brass are so good. I put in orders for the calibers above and they have all of that for about 25-35 cents a casing.(not bad for 45/70). Hereabouts, 45 acp and 38 special are easy to get - there are usually piles of it, and as long as I don't bring a wheelbarrel, the rangemasters don't give the frequent range customers any trouble if we pick up some - after all, I tell 'em I'm just going to wind up bringing it all back anyway... My biggest brass cache is in 45ACP - I've got buckets and jugs and boxes of 45ACP everywhere...comes from all that steel shooting we did back in the late 70s and early 80s. Best Regards to ya
Great video, very informative. I am a beginner re-loader. I use the Lee 4 die set and get good results. My question is on the use of cast lead bullets. I have learned on RUclips that some lead bullets have a crimping grove for a roll crimp and others are made with no crimping grove. Can the Lee factory crimp die (with a taper crimp) be used on all cast lead bullets? Are there circumstances where a roll crimp must be used? I enjoy your detailed approach to re-loading. I look forward to more of your videos.
+John Smiley -- I've just done a video that answers most of your questions..."Determining Seating Depth VR to John Chinn and His Daughters", but the real title should be "Crimping VR to John Chinn....." (Seating depth and crimping position are dealing with the same beast..). Also for answers to other questions "Lee Factory Crimp Dies...The Best Crimp in the Business" will clear up a lot of stuff because there are actually three Lee Factory Crimp Dies.... Best to ya... FC
Sir, I just purchased a Lee factory crimp dye for .223. I was setting it up, feeling just slight resistance. I noticed a line on the case shoulder just below the cannalure. Is tnis too much crimp? Thank you, Joe.
Cookie - What does the roll crimp sleeve look like? How is it different from the taper sleeve? I have two FCDs and I can't tell which one is for auto pistols and which is the revolver die.
I am a new reloader. I read some manuals that say do NOT apply any crimp to an auto-pistol round. I understand why they say this because they usually headspace on the mouth of the case. But I hear many people doing it and common sense tells me an auto pistol should have a crimp. Whats your opinion? Have you had any problems? Ive been applying a small amount of crimp and have had no problems but you have been reloading ALOT longer than me. Thanks! - Jacob S.
Jacob S. - Great question - we need bullet retention for ammo integrity, maintaining seating depth, providing for powder burn, insure functioning, sustaining ammo for storage. Bullet retention = neck tension + crimp. The best time to not use any crimp is with single shot or bolt action rifles...where neck tension alone is sufficient. Auto pistols still need crimping to keep bullets from being driven deeper into the case on feeding. What you have heard on not crimping auto pistol rounds is partly true - you do not want to do roll crimps like revolvers for auto pistols as headspace is lost as you say. However, taper crimps allow crimp while not bending the case mouth in so that headspace on the chember shoulder is maintained. Taper crimp dies are commonly used to crimp auto pistol rounds including 9mm, 40 cal, and 45 ACP, 38 Super, 380, 32 ACP, etc. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC Ahhh. Makes sense. Now I understand why auto pistol caliber dies come with seating dies only capable of taper crimps. Thanks a ton! Your an absolute wealth of knowledge and a great teacher. Merry Christmas to you too! Have a wonderful holiday. - Jacob S.
Just apply enough crimp to remove the bell created by the expanding die. If you use a caliper it will help to achieve this.
papo colt Thanks. Yes I usually try to give it a crimp of 1 to 2 thou. - Jacob S.
You might even try .05 to 1.0 max
That is very good information, thank you sir!!! Take care and stay dry out there!!
dave althoff There is a wind storm and rain as we speak - but all OK as we need the water. Best to you
great information!! Easy to understand
Howdy again. Another great vid...thanks. Just starting with .30-30 reloading, and you say how to adjust the die(2:45-3:00) but how would I know if the crimp is too tight or not? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks. Lee's website gives no info regarding this.
Douglas Snyder - With your 30/30, the purpose of the crimp is to prevent bullet movement in the cases during compression in tube magazine and during action cycling. One test would be to fully load the magazine, and when the last round is chambered, instead of shooting it, eject it and check the bullet. If still in position, then your crimp is fine. You could also compare your crimp with the factory crimp under magnification. You really don't need too heavy a crimp with your 30/30, neck tension is number one in ammo integrity. Have a great day, FC Steve
Hi Steve, thanks for the response. I also called Lee this morning and the guy said there is no definitive answer due to different case wall thicknesses, bullet diameters and gun chamber differences, but after raising the ram, and screwing down the die to meet it, another half turn to 3/4 of a turn should be sufficient. He also said the collet will only go so tight, and that there is little danger in over crimping and causing the casing to exceed pressure limits, which I was most concerned about.
Great video. quick question on the taper crimp. I have read that there is some sort of "Glock" Bulge that reloading .40 is a challenge. I have used the lee dies since day one (including the crimp die), never had a problem. Does this take care of the "bulge"?
+Dos Vasko's Farms -- To get rid of the entire bulge, you will need the Lee Bulge Buster that is used with the factory crimp die to run the entire case through to eliminate the bulge. Works well... Best to ya, FC
i know i sure love my lee press's and dies!
heavylead1961 They can really sing, can't they?! Good reloadin' to ya...
I'm interested in the Lee collet crimp die for 45/70 but already have a three die set and have loaded six or seven hundred rounds...Can I buy the Lee collet die separate?
Apparently if I crimp my rounds with the Lee it will have to be after seating the bullet with my present seating die with the" crimping" part backed off and only the seating part utilized. This will add a step to every 45/70 round I load, correct? Is it worth the extra step?Thanks for the video...Subbed.
+towerhillbilly -- The Lee FCDs are available as separate dies for purchase. This is because many users of other manufacturer die sets like the Lee FCDs to do the crimping as a separate 4th die - and they function well with any of the other die sets... Good reloadin' to ya, FC
I shoot 45 acp from semi-auto and a from a revolver. I haven't had any problem using either and I only crimp with the die design for the semi-auto pistols. Any thoughts on this? My revolver uses moon clips so I suspect that since it doesn't depend on the case mouth to headspace, it works fine.
Jerry Golden -- Congrats on your hardware -Your revolver sounds like a 1917 Colt or S & W both fine guns or perhaps the S&W 625. But it's a good thing you don't roll crimp - the crimper for your auto pistol reloading does the taper crimp and that works well for revolvers also - especially since the round headspaces on the case mouth even in revolvers like the Ruger Blackhawk Convertibles. The moon clip allows the 45 ACP to be shot in chambers that have no case mout shoulders. Best to ya, FC