I've been loading on a Square Deal for 13 years and a 550 for 9 years so I'm not new to reloading but I've only loaded .223 on my 550 and an now venturing out into other calibers on the 550. I'm so glad I found your videos. Excellent explanations and details.
In reference to not chasing a 10th of a grain. Guys, keep in mind, this is a progressive reloader, and in my experience, you’re giving up some precision and consistency for speed/bulk reloading. If you are going to be 10th of a grain precise, you need to use a single stage press, and hand measure each powder charge. Great video, its been a few years since I used the progressive, but I finally got my hands on some small rifle and pistol, so its time to replenish 9mm and 5.56! Thanks for the 550b refresher!
Thank you sir for your videos. Just got a RL550 in bits and pieces from a friend and your videos on the matter helped me put it together. I appreciate you for the time spent on these videos.
You have to tighten both the lockring AND the powder measure bolts with the case in the die. I spent an infuriating amount of time getting the bell just right and tightening the lockring only for the case mouth to expand another .010 after bolting the powder measure down. Drove me insane
I usually drop powder 10 times in the same cup. Then divide it by 10 to get the average. For example, 47.7 gr makes it 4.8 gr average (rounded up) per charge. I used to do it with RCBS Little Dandy powder measure and keep doing it with other powder measures.
I watched all 3 videos thus far.And I have learned a lot as Im a new reloader. My comment is that I have not seen you show us how to put in the primers using the 550C.To some newbies the powder would have just leaked out the bottom of the brass case because you skipped the primer part.Thanks.Ive enjoyed your videos.
Good vid thanks man, I just inherited a Dillon 550B and the only thing I'm having trouble with is setting up powder charges. The Dillon measure I have is just the bolt in the back for adjustment, I think getting a cheap plastic knob cover could make it a little more accurate in adjustment
Great video and step by step tutorial. You also have a nice powder adjustment dial knob. My new press just has a bolt that you turn up or down to adjust the powder measure.
Found video refined and reaffirming, thank you. Would you forward source of the vernier to adjust the powder bar volumn adjust for the 550c and overwatch on installing.
Thanks great video. Im new to loading maybe a few months. Dillon xl 750. My 9mm casing looks like it is bulging out. I’m going to reduce my bell maybe that is the cause. Thanks again
Love your videos, very informative but Id like to ask you if you can offer some advice with the powder system and fail safe rod on the Dillon 550b. I've had mine since the early 90's and just retrofitted a new conversion kit from Dillon for the bell crank and rod to the powder measure. Ive seen other videos where some reloaders had issues with the new conversion kit from Dillon. My old 550b crank and rod moved flawlessly but I thought I should go ahead with the upgrade. Long story short, I was unable to get the new system lined up correctly ( the rod was far from vertical no matter how I adjusted it going down to the baseplate and plastic bushing) and the crank binds pretty badly on the down stroke and pulling the ram back down jarring the whole powder system. I had to bend the rod to even get it to function somewhat properly as the RUclips vids have indicated. Also, if I tried to run the rod from the other side that Dillon does not recommend on the top of the fail safe rod, it would kick the nylon bushing from the slot on the powder measure from the torque produced on the right side of the crank (instead of bringing it in from the left as you are facing the press). Anyway, I hope this isn't too confusing but I was hoping to see if your've experience this or heard from other hand loaders on how to remedy the problem.
The only issues I have found working with other loaders on the newer fail safe rod is that they have the slide on the powder measure adjusted too tight. This would be the lock nut that holds the pivot shaft with the two levers. Try loosening that nut a little bit and see if that helps you out. I would be more than happy to video chat with you to try and give you some help.
@@SquatchReloaded Thank you very much. That would be great if you can help me further diagnose the issue. I did reach out to Dillon but I haven't heard anything back. I adjusted the lock nut each way and installed it per the Dillon instructions, however, the majority of the problem was the fail safe rod running on such an extreme angle that could not be corrected with rotation of the powder measure. That's where I had to bend the rod to make it work somewhat. Apparently the other video I watched, the subscriber had the same issue and he managed to bend and re align things to make it work, but it really isn't acceptable given the cost of the equipment. I ordered a new 550 a week ago, I just hope I don't experience the same problems. Thanks again for your help, you have one of the best channels here on the tube.
Hi Great video, I'm a new, I have a Dillon 550c and seem to be doing something wrong(of course) When I raise the arm in the up position in the powder measure stage, I get resistance and have to use a little force to get it in the full upright position. Any thoughts??
Assuming you are charging a case. If so the id mandrel is sticking in the case on the up stroke. Welcome to the Dillon hiccup. This is normal. I also assume you are wet tumbling your brass. Dillon will tell you it’s too clean. There are some aftermarket mandrel that claim to alleviate this but they make a marginal improvement. I have eliminated it with a combination of dies and lubricant. Plenty of theory’s on this but Dillon will tell you it’s fine.
I use a PEG 95 based lubricant. I have a video on my recipe. Works well. Just make sure to let it dry for 20 minutes or so prior to using. I also like one shot lube for pistol
thanks for these vids--let me ask this--why aren't you tightening the die down when setting the flare? the die is absolutely moving in the video when you make your test pulls. wouldn't that make an inaccurate setting for the flare?
hollowpoint45acp That is correct, however its the flare stem that moves up and down. The flare stem moves independently anyways to case activate the powder measure. I prefer to only tighten the die when there is pressure from the case. That goes for any die. I find that it is very consistent that way. Keep in mind there are many ways to get the job done I am only presenting my methods. The concept is what’s the important thing to grasp.
Hey!! So what's up with the Green and White in the background on the wall? That pretty Blue Press probably does Approve. I have a Blue Press also and I love it!!
I've been loading on a Square Deal for 13 years and a 550 for 9 years so I'm not new to reloading but I've only loaded .223 on my 550 and an now venturing out into other calibers on the 550. I'm so glad I found your videos. Excellent explanations and details.
My go to videos when I need to refresh my memory. Thanks for taking the time to post these.
In reference to not chasing a 10th of a grain. Guys, keep in mind, this is a progressive reloader, and in my experience, you’re giving up some precision and consistency for speed/bulk reloading. If you are going to be 10th of a grain precise, you need to use a single stage press, and hand measure each powder charge.
Great video, its been a few years since I used the progressive, but I finally got my hands on some small rifle and pistol, so its time to replenish 9mm and 5.56! Thanks for the 550b refresher!
Very nice work. I’ve been reloading for nearly a half century and love to search for and find new things to consider. Say hi to your mom for me!
This series is by far the best / most detailed cartridge specific tutorial I've seen on RUclips for the Dillon 550. Thank you!
Thank you I am glad you enjoyed it.
Great series man…good, in depth, explanations unlike a lot of other videos on this
Thank you sir for your videos. Just got a RL550 in bits and pieces from a friend and your videos on the matter helped me put it together. I appreciate you for the time spent on these videos.
You have to tighten both the lockring AND the powder measure bolts with the case in the die. I spent an infuriating amount of time getting the bell just right and tightening the lockring only for the case mouth to expand another .010 after bolting the powder measure down. Drove me insane
the act of just using a Dillon press shows me you have a good idea what you are doing!
Always learning and be willing to learn is the secret to reloading.
Appreciate your attention to detail with explaining the process and your technique.
I usually drop powder 10 times in the same cup. Then divide it by 10 to get the average. For example, 47.7 gr makes it 4.8 gr average (rounded up) per charge. I used to do it with RCBS Little Dandy powder measure and keep doing it with other powder measures.
Awesome video thank you!
I watched all 3 videos thus far.And I have learned a lot as Im a new reloader. My comment is that I have not seen you show us how to put in the primers using the 550C.To some newbies the powder would have just leaked out the bottom of the brass case because you skipped the primer part.Thanks.Ive enjoyed your videos.
Great video series. Been thinking of going progressive with 9mm and this series is very helpful.
Thanks!!
Bill Austin glad to hear. If you have any question feel free to send me a message
Good vid thanks man, I just inherited a Dillon 550B and the only thing I'm having trouble with is setting up powder charges. The Dillon measure I have is just the bolt in the back for adjustment, I think getting a cheap plastic knob cover could make it a little more accurate in adjustment
Excellent tutorial especially when going from a plated bullet, which I put very little flair on, to a coated bullet which requires much more flare.
Great video and step by step tutorial. You also have a nice powder adjustment dial knob. My new press just has a bolt that you turn up or down to adjust the powder measure.
Yea that is an upgrade piece there. Readily available on Amazon or Etsy
Found video refined and reaffirming, thank you. Would you forward source of the vernier to adjust the powder bar volumn adjust for the 550c and overwatch on installing.
Great video man !
Nice job!!!
Thanks for being so helpful! Love the channel!
Thanks great video. Im new to loading maybe a few months. Dillon xl 750. My 9mm casing looks like it is bulging out. I’m going to reduce my bell maybe that is the cause. Thanks again
Stick around for my next series on the RL1100 going to be talking about sizing 9mm specifically
Love your videos, very informative but Id like to ask you if you can offer some advice with the powder system and fail safe rod on the Dillon 550b. I've had mine since the early 90's and just retrofitted a new conversion kit from Dillon for the bell crank and rod to the powder measure. Ive seen other videos where some reloaders had issues with the new conversion kit from Dillon. My old 550b crank and rod moved flawlessly but I thought I should go ahead with the upgrade. Long story short, I was unable to get the new system lined up correctly ( the rod was far from vertical no matter how I adjusted it going down to the baseplate and plastic bushing) and the crank binds pretty badly on the down stroke and pulling the ram back down jarring the whole powder system. I had to bend the rod to even get it to function somewhat properly as the RUclips vids have indicated. Also, if I tried to run the rod from the other side that Dillon does not recommend on the top of the fail safe rod, it would kick the nylon bushing from the slot on the powder measure from the torque produced on the right side of the crank (instead of bringing it in from the left as you are facing the press). Anyway, I hope this isn't too confusing but I was hoping to see if your've experience this or heard from other hand loaders on how to remedy the problem.
The only issues I have found working with other loaders on the newer fail safe rod is that they have the slide on the powder measure adjusted too tight. This would be the lock nut that holds the pivot shaft with the two levers. Try loosening that nut a little bit and see if that helps you out. I would be more than happy to video chat with you to try and give you some help.
@@SquatchReloaded Thank you very much. That would be great if you can help me further diagnose the issue. I did reach out to Dillon but I haven't heard anything back. I adjusted the lock nut each way and installed it per the Dillon instructions, however, the majority of the problem was the fail safe rod running on such an extreme angle that could not be corrected with rotation of the powder measure. That's where I had to bend the rod to make it work somewhat. Apparently the other video I watched, the subscriber had the same issue and he managed to bend and re align things to make it work, but it really isn't acceptable given the cost of the equipment. I ordered a new 550 a week ago, I just hope I don't experience the same problems. Thanks again for your help, you have one of the best channels here on the tube.
Sure thing. Thanks for the kind words. Feel free to email me anytime and we can set something up. squatchreloading@gmail.com
Hi Great video, I'm a new, I have a Dillon 550c and seem to be doing something wrong(of course) When I raise the arm in the up position in the powder measure stage, I get resistance and have to use a little force to get it in the full upright position. Any thoughts??
Assuming you are charging a case. If so the id mandrel is sticking in the case on the up stroke. Welcome to the Dillon hiccup. This is normal. I also assume you are wet tumbling your brass. Dillon will tell you it’s too clean. There are some aftermarket mandrel that claim to alleviate this but they make a marginal improvement. I have eliminated it with a combination of dies and lubricant. Plenty of theory’s on this but Dillon will tell you it’s fine.
Thanks a boat load for that reply, what kind of lubricant? @@SquatchReloaded
I use a PEG 95 based lubricant. I have a video on my recipe. Works well. Just make sure to let it dry for 20 minutes or so prior to using. I also like one shot lube for pistol
Nice content Squatch 👍🏽
Very nice
Thanks
Hey brother hope all is well I really like the way you check the powder good stuff.
the dial that you turned to change the amount of powder being dropped, is that standard on the 550?
No that is an aftermarket add on. Easy to find on eBay
Good video bud.
Thanks Gates
If you change powder bars (small to large, large back to small) will it retain the setting (powder charge) when you change it back?
It will retain what you preciously had it set at.
@@SquatchReloaded excellent! Thanks for the info.
thanks for these vids--let me ask this--why aren't you tightening the die down when setting the flare? the die is absolutely moving in the video when you make your test pulls. wouldn't that make an inaccurate setting for the flare?
hollowpoint45acp That is correct, however its the flare stem that moves up and down. The flare stem moves independently anyways to case activate the powder measure. I prefer to only tighten the die when there is pressure from the case. That goes for any die. I find that it is very consistent that way. Keep in mind there are many ways to get the job done I am only presenting my methods. The concept is what’s the important thing to grasp.
Ok! Who was the nut that gave this a down arrow.
Happens all the time. Lol
Probably another maker of presses! :)
Hey!! So what's up with the Green and White in the background on the wall?
That pretty Blue Press probably does Approve.
I have a Blue Press also and I love it!!
Sorry should be Dose Not approve! Lol