What a mess! Dillon press powder leakage
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- Опубликовано: 14 дек 2016
- Analysis of powder leakage on a Dillon 550B press and what steps can be taken to reduce and hopefully, eliminate, the leakage.
Dillon Precision: www.dillonprecision.com/
American Workbench: www.americanworkbench.com/
Arredondo powder bar: www.uniquetek.com/product/T1267
A previous version of this video has been deleted and this version uploaded to, hopefully, solve an audio problem. 
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Been fighting powder leakage for 30 years. Recently bought and adapted the Hornady drop to my 1050. Over 1000 rounds loaded so far, no leakage and a much smoother running machine!
I am purchasing an XL650 this week and will be following all your advice from this video. This is the most comprehensive video I have found about solving these problems, thank you!
redline870, I am sure you will thoroughly enjoy your XL650.
By far this is the best and comprehensive video regarding powder problems! Thank you for your thoughts very helpful!
Very helpful to any Dillon owner even if not experiencing powder leakage - clear explanation of the detailed operation of the press - thanks!
You are thorough! Thanks for tips. Probably the best Dillon instruction video on RUclips
Thought I knew my 550 well, but learned quite a bit here, thank you! Appreciate the detail and excellent pictures.
Excellent presentation on the issues and how to fix them. Well done.
Two calls to Dillon and no help with powder leakage. Your spring/rubber band method worked! Thank you!
I am glad it worked BGP.
You must be a engineer or a professional reloader - I’m guessing maybe both. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience and knowledge.
Stopping powder spillage is easy. After you seat the bullet, you pick up a new bullet before you move the handle. As you move the handle, the turntable will rotate however, you just rotated enough to grab a hold of the charged case that has just been inserted into the powder checker and is now starting to come out of the powder checker. You take hold of the cartridge case as it just starts to move to the seating station before the bullet is inserted. Your left hand grabs a hold of the empty case as it comes down from the bullet checker. You continue to move the handle and as the the turntable rotates, you grab a hold of the charge case and guide it to a soft stop, then you put the bullet on top of the case, and proceed to do the same to the next case again. The trick is catching a charged case before it comes to a stop to slow it down. It’s the sudden stop that causes powder spills. Thereby preventing gunpowder from jumping out of the case.
That was a really excellent presentation! Thank you for taking the time to give such thorough explanations.
Excellent video. You took some real time to illustrate your points and it is much appreciated. Some of which I already knew and other things were very helpful
I'm new to reloading and just found this; what a great video. As a newcomer to the 550, I feel like I'll be a lot safer/cleaner than I would have been had I not watched this video. Thank you for the video!
I am glad you found it useful Les.
I am about ready to go back to my old press because of all the dust. thank you for the good info
Sir, excellent presentation and great practical advice
Excellent video with detailed in depth explanations. My Dillon and my reloading will improve because of the information you presented. Please keep up the good work. .
Thank you Russ.
Thanks for the video. Reloading successfully and frustration free on a progressive press depends more on the mechanical aptitude of the reloader and less on the color of the press.
I just wanted to say thank you for the information and amazing presentation. I bought a highly used RL 1050 and am trying to troubleshoot several issues reloading 9mm. Power leakage is the newest one I'm trying to address. Thank you for the info.
Andrew, thank you. And good luck with your 1050.
Thanks for the tip with the elastic band! My dropper was spilling powder on the downstroke like crazy. Awesome fix. For fine Win231 powder sliding on the powder bar, I called Dillon and they advised me to use masking (painters) tape and apply on the top if the bar. That fixed the leak.
Goran, were you already using the thicker, black spacer bar and you put painter's tape on top of that?
knowledge2you No. i used the factory bar and added only one layer of tape. That was enough to fix the leak.
@@jolebole-yt Thanks for the info.
Appreciate the time and effort every little bit helps , good job .
Concise and exacting. Well done!
this video is amazing. so much attention to detail. thank you.
Thank you Chris.
Just got done with my set up and your video was very informative, subbed
Thanks for the sub, but more importantly, I am glad the information was useful.
Excellent video. Really well done. Thanks
That was an awesome video sir. Thank you very much!
Wow, how did you learn this.....applause applause.....excellent work and vid....thank you. Bob
You are welcome Bob.
Wish I'd seen this earlier today...had a devil of a mess with Accurate 2230 loading .223. I was slow on the upstroke too. Going to try rubber bands next time. Thanks for the video.
Glad it gave you some ideas to try.
Fantastic video. Thank you.
Thank you sooo much!!! I'll try your rubber bands trick to solve my late drops.
Mine doesn't leak it just cant drop accurate measures for 223. been getting up to 0.5 grain differences resulting in a velocity spread around 200fps over a test batch of 30 rounds so going back to my modified Lee Auto drum which drops 23 grains of S321 every time all the time.
Great video! Thank you very much!
Trank you Sir, this was very helpful!
Greetings from switzerland 🇨🇭
I am glad you found it useful.
Ive never seen anyone ground their press before, that's a great idea!
Thank you so much for this video. A rubber band doubled on itself completely eliminated my powder issue. I thought i had done something wrong during assembly.
I am glad you worked for you Tyler.
I have found that on rifle calibers, improper case lubing causes powder drop blockage and spilled powder. Often times people spray directly onto their cases the case lube. That should not be done. I spray 5 sprays of a mixture of lanolin and alcohol onto a anti static dryer sheet and then put it into a plastic bag. I then add the cases (100) and then tumble it for about a minute tossing the bag around in several directions. This method prevents too much lube and also prevents lube into the case opening which causes powder to stick to the case opening causing powder spillage.
I also grounded my press and measure. That prevents static from building up. I also clean the powder measure every month or so to get rid of any powder residue that will build up. I then scotch bright the powder bar to get rid of any corrosion that always gets on aluminum....you cannot stop it but you can reduce it so that the bar slides in the measure easily.
Do you find that on rifle calibers if a dry lube inside the case still causes the same powder sticking/spillage issue? Or only if a wet lube is used?
@@knowledge2you I only use home made wet lube....made from Heet carb cleaner and lanolin. It is the best lube I have found....as it is the same as the Dillon lube they sell.
Thanks for the info Steve.
Excellent video I’m going to take a look at my 550 and do some of the things that you pointed out in your video question though where did you get the containers you have your bullets stored in those are also an excellent idea
Those are OXO Food Storage containers. You can get them online or places like Bed, Bath and Beyond. A little pricey, but they make the bench look cool.
Another excellent presentation! Thank you for the discussion. Could you guide me with regard to the springs used to help return the powder bar. Dillon no longer has them available and does not recommend them for those of us who have a DL 550B auto reloading powder system. I'll purchase them from McMaster-Carr. Could you please list, what the OD (inches) and the spring length (inches) of the springs that you use? Thank you in advance for your response.
Michael, first try this. Go to the Dillon web site and navigate to Home > Reloading > Reloading Parts > Square Deal Parts > Square Deal/Square Deal B individual parts and in the drop down box look for Old Style Powder Bar Return Spring (part number 14036). If that does not work, then the measurements you requested are as follows. Total length of spring, including end loops, is 5.1". Outside diameter is 0.13". Hope this helps. In the meantime, you can try a rubber band. You only need enough tension to start the powder bar to return as soon as you raise the handle.
i make all my powder funnels and powder dies myself on the lathe and mill that way i can bore the internal openings and ream the holes in the powder funnels and it gives you a smooth machined finish, dillon makes the best machines out there but i think they are having trouble keeping up with the demand just a note i use the square deal b for all my pistol ammo it works beautifully for me and the 550 for all my rifle loading but their design for the cylindrical powder like imr for the powder measure truely needs a complete redesign for better consistancy with the larger granules of cylindrical powder just mt opinion . i made an adapter for my rcbs powder measure for when i use the imr powders it is much more consistant for me
Very informative, thanks!
I used a little bit of gun oil on the indexing plate and detent ball spring. Verrrry small amount helped a little. Hope that wasn’t a bad idea
It will not cause damage, but oil will hold any debris it encounters. So it is possible that with time, you may have to wipe away the dirty oil, and if desired, apply fresh. p.s. When you say indexing plate, I assume you mean the bottom of the shellplate and not indexing sprocket.
Great job, thanks!
Nice job I learned a lot i just bought dillon xl750 I never reloaded anything before I hope I didn't make a big mistake
I guess we will find out
You didn't make a mistake. The Dillon is the best.... I have an XL650. Been using it for over 4 years.. The Dillon Powder Measures are ok.. BUT.. they leak some powders badly...Especially TAC.. Which really sux because I LOVE TAC with 55's and it meters like water... (very consistent charge weights). So I replaced the Dillon Powder Measure with an RCBS and it is much improved... in many ways..
Great Video
I'm new to reloading and I use a Dillon 550C. I noticed the slop in the powder bar and housing and the need for a return soring.Ive already purchased and extended Star and the bearing a long with the bolt for the shell plate.How did you attach the static cloth on powder case? Tape ? This was a very informative video.I enjoyed and appreciate it.Thank you.
I just used two rubber bands to hold the anti-static sheets to the powder hopper.
Thak you, sir! Tha antistatic tip saves me!
I see your primer drop tube housing is cut short. Are you still using drop tubes for primer loading? Thanks for the video and info
Chris, at first, I only cut it short so I could get certain close ups for the videos. To make a very long story short, I evolved how I prime and I now use the RCBS APS priming tool. My version is the one that mounts to a single stage press, which is no long made. But they still make a bench mount version.
So your saying that after I've spent upwards of $550 for a Dillon 55B, I may still have a piece of equipment that is not up to par?
JoGu7, if I thought the equipment was subpar, I would have sold my 550B and gone with another company. But will the equipment work perfectly right out of the box? Did my match grade guns work perfectly right out of the box? Unfortunately, no. I had to work to find the right combination of load/spring/grip that suited me before I was happy with my match grade gun(s).
Powder leakage can be due to operator error, improper equipment set up, and, yes, the equipment. The later reason causes leakage around the powder bar and is one of the reasons for late powder drop into the case (the other reason is the operator raises the handle too soon).
In resolving leaks around the powder bar, I found Dillon tech support to be very helpful. They will provide the thick spacer bar for free and, in one rare case, they worked with me to replace the powder measure.
To resolve late powder drop due to powder bar not returning to station early enough, rubber bands are a cheap and effective solution.
Knowledge2you - I've read that you deprime your brass as a separate step. May I ask why, and what tools do you use? I have a 550b and I size, deprime, and prime in one step. Then perform the other three steps at a later time. Unfortunately, the depriming process is very dirty as well and eventually hinders the primer-bar movement. I'm contemplating removing the primers as a very first step.
Hi Benny. I have two reasons. First, I wet tumble with stainless steel and if the spent primer was removed first, the tumbling does a decent job of cleaning the primer pocket. Second, decapping on a progressive press makes a mess because not all the primers make it into the spent primer chute so I have to clean off debris from the press, bench, floor and then go look for spent primers on the bench, floor, etc. No thanks.
I decap on a Lee Classic Cast press, which is a single stage press. My decapping die is a RCBS Universal Decapping Die Heavy Duty. The one I purchased will decap calibers from .27 to .45 without the need to change the die. When I change calibers, I only need to change the shellplate on the press. Decapping dies do not resize, which is what I want. When I get back from the range, I decap, throw the brass in a box and when I get enough, wet tumble.
I chose the Lee because it was the cheapest single stage press at the time. While the video linked here is not about decapping per say, you can see the press and die in the video.
ruclips.net/video/OGfFDtRH8lc/видео.html
@@knowledge2you Thank you for your time. I'm going to adopt your method.
Look like Dram works still makes that pyrex (glass) tube. It replaces the plastic bottom with a metal one. I'm thinking non more stained plastic. Did it have any tangible effect on powder drops though?
Titegroup powder really stains the Dillon plastic hoppers. But not the glass one. I could not tell any tangible effects on powder charge weights.
@@knowledge2you Good to know. I've been lucky on stains. 5 years tubes look new. I left HS-6 in one for a year :) (Dark room no light) and no stain.
H110 no stain, CFE 223 no stain.
Someone said 244 stains but so far so good. Wondering if dillon uses different types of polymeres over the years and some stain more than others.
I know this is an old video.. BUT.. I had a powder issue with TAC with the Dillon measures on my XL650. TAC just POURS out... I adapted (not hard at all) an RCBS powder drop and NO PROBLEM
I am glad you found a solution. Just curious if your RCBS is case activated? (i.e. as you raise the shell plate, the case activates the RCBS powder measure.)
@@knowledge2you Yes it is... It took a little "positioning" to get it to fit but it works perfect and doesn't spill any TAC at all.. TAC is really great rifle powder.. I meters like water.. is very consistent, has low temp sensitivity and I have gotten sub MOA out of a "black rifle" with cheapest I could find Wolf 55 gr FMJ's. The RCBS drop is on the tool head I use for 223/5.56.
I have a dillon XL 650 solved all power drop issues with a $5.00 washer set (roller bearings) that go under the shell plate bolt. Using it on a cheap Harbor freight wood table that is not secured to wall. You went on a mission (overkill) to support the table better but I think the 5.00 washer kit is all you need.
Your $5 washer will only solve the issue of powder bouncing out of a case as the shell plate is rotated. If you have powder leakage anywhere else as shown in the video, such as the one described at 11:12, the washer will not solve it.
A secure work bench not only helps with reducing powder leakage, but it also helps with powder charge consistency.
@@knowledge2you Yea I don't have that kind of leakage. Mostly comes from people polishing the square out of the powder drop bars. They mean well but end up breaking what they are trying to fix.
Some guys put a fish tank air pump on the powder drop, the vibration helps keep the drops consistent they say. A solid table is nice to have for sure but not a requirement. A $120.00 Habor Freight table/vice drawers works pretty good and pretty solid for the money.
But when I first got the press I did have some powder issues on the rotating clicks. I replaced the steel ball bearing with a diff diameter polymer one and put 3 washers on (middle has bearings). Its much smoother now and powder drops more consistent. To get any better I would have to hand drop the powder. For 9mm, Colt 45, 5.56, 32 acp it works well.
@@Physics072 I have heard about fish tank air pump. Never tried it. But when I do add powder to an empty hopper, I do throw about 100 charges (putting each back into the hopper) to get the powder settled and the spacer bar and powder bar full.
@@knowledge2you I've not used the fish tank either. What I do is take a round with a primer in it. I have two digi scales. I set the empty round on the scale then zero it. I then run it through the powder drop set on scale and roughly dial it in. Then i do a bunch more drops until they are all consistent. Also fill hopper 1/2 way or more. I check every 10 or 20 rounds depends on by trust level that day. I also use the over/undercharge alarm when doing colt (precaution cause the case can be 3x charged) but the Dillon drop makes that difficult to happen but I run it just in case.
I noticed you have a anti static wire, I don't have that. Not sure I've had any build up of static but not really investigated if its a problem. Curious on your thoughts on that. I'm in a damp state so maybe I just don't run into issue on that like one might in a arid climate.
@@Physics072 I live in the SE USA, so winters are very dry (even though it's the rainy season). If you see powder sticking to the sides of the hopper, it could be an issue. The main reason is there have been a few cases where someone touched the primer feeder and the static charge set off a primer (I personally know someone that had this happen to them), and when you have primers stacked vertically, when one goes, they all go. Dillon does use a heavy duty tube so as not to explode in your hand. The tube was designed so that if there is a primer detonation, the blast will go straight up. In my friends case, he reloads in a detached garage whose ceiling is two stories up, so minimal damage to his garage. In my case, the blast would go straight into a finished ceiling, which could/will cause a fire.
On a workbench note, if you ever decide to 'upgrade' from your Harbor Freight, I wrote a review of this workbench. Much cheaper than my main one, but pretty solid when you lock the wheels down. ruclips.net/video/ncr0FvIoAXk/видео.html
Mine will be here on the 21st, can't wait! I bought the 650xl and shoot a ton of 9mm. Thank you for your time.
Just got done putting together my 550C, you're going to love the 650xl
@@MPGunther1 after a ton of research, I finally loaded my first 9mm! The powder charge for me was the only frustrating part but everything else pretty much fell into place. The 650 dropped to $600 if anyone's interested.
Great video! Is the purpose ground wire to minimize/eliminate static charge build up?
Correct. I did NOT connect the wire to my house's electrical ground. I connected it to the water pipe (which is metal) coming into the house.
@@knowledge2you Understand. Thank you for your time in quickly answering my questions sir!
Any concerns about a lightning strike? While it’s a great idea during use, I’d be concerned about leaving it that way with powder in the hopper.
Some great ideas here. I'm fairly certain, though, that the rubber bands/springs will cause premature wear of the powderbar and throat of the powder body as they're applying an off-axis, or angular force (meaning at an angle to the line of travel) on the powder bar. In other words they're lifting up on the bar in addition to pulling back to the returned state. Not a problem if addressed, but I suspect one would find they need an oversized spacer more quickly doing that, and is likely a big reason why they switched to the newer style fail safe.
Eric, thanks for the comment. I have been using rubber bands/springs for a number of years now without an issue. However, as a geology professor told the class once, two things created the Grand Canyon; time and pressure. Therefore, I will keep an eye out for the issue you pointed out.
@@knowledge2you well fwiw, my own press now has rubber bands on it so I'm clearly not overly concerned myself, just will keep an eye on it too . 👍
Been running Dillon presses for over 30 years never had these problems.
Dave, glad to hear things are running smooth for you.
I just set up my SDB, purchased used with replacing obviously worn parts. After spending an hour or so going over the machine and setting it up adjusting the dies, I experienced both powder on the workbench and flipped primers. I’m now waiting to hear from Dillon.
@@gto49us did you call them? They have the best customer service. I misplaced a sizing die once. Called to order a new one. He said I should have it in a few days. I said wait a minute don't you want me to pay for it. He said no it's under warranty. I told him it wasn't broken that I lost it. Was told not to worry about it and have a nice day.
@@gto49us Hope they get back to you soon. Regarding the primers, I assume the correct sized parts are being used. This would include the primer cup, primer punch and primer magazine assembly. These parts are different in size depending if you are using small primers or large. Dropping small primers into the large primer magazine assembly could result in flipped primers. (The primer magazine assembly kinda looks like a pick up tube.) Regarding the primer pickup tube, there is one size for small primers and another for large.
Brand of powder could make a difference. Someone reloading large, extruded rifle powders may never experience powder leakage. But if they switch to small flake or ball powders, they may see powder leaks they never knew they had. I reload for handgun. Therefore, I use the small, sometimes very small, powders and if my press has a leak, it will be revealed.
knowledge2you
Thanks for your reply. Yes, checked the primer tooling using all correct parts - currently loading 9mm with small primers. In 200 rounds, I had two primers go in edgewise, I think one after the other. Not sure exactly because I had to stop with the first one, clear the shellplate, and start over. Then with the second, I took the shellplate off and cleaned it up, noticing the powder. Put it back together, continued reloading without issues.
When I was done, I pulled out the primers by hand and could reuse the cases.
I measured the primer slide assembly as per page 4 of the manual, and noted it was 1.408”, 0.002” less than optimum but within the tolerance margin. I measure my large primer slide, and it’s exactly the same (but haven’t used it yet).
I was using Win231 powder which is very fine.
Wait, at 16:29 where did you get that press and trays with the American flag on it???
Black Magick, my second hobby is photography. I imported the video into Photoshop and created an adjustment layer over that portion of the video where you see the flag. I used the adjustment layer's mask to restrict the image of the flag to the press and tray and then changed the adjustment layer's blending mode to give it a semi-transparent quality. Thus, making it look like the press and tray were actually painted with the American flag.
Well it looks fantastic. I'm wondering now if one could get it dipped or coated somehow to look like that.
If you know an airbrush artist, you could ask them about the possibility. But it probably would not be cheap. An inexpensive option would be to purchase a sticker of the American flag and place it on a flat area of the press. Stickers usually do not adhere well to uneven surfaces.
Yea, I'm thinking hydrofilm would be the way to go. Thing is, while it would be great on a 650, I'm getting the 1050 and there just isn't much of a frame. Love Dillon's stuff, I just don't dig all the blue plastic and paint everywhere. Really looks cheesy on a kickass workbench. A machine, should like a machine, know what I'm saying? Call me old fashioned I just cringe when I see all that blue plastic, like what is that? Some kind of kids toy or something? The casefeeder and other plastic parts should be black and the pole it sits on made out of brass. I'd prefer it look like something a mad scientist/inventor spent years developing, not something that came from Hasbro. If I were getting anything other than the 1050 from Dillon, I'd strongly consider having it sand blasted and repainted in I don't know gray or black or OD. I think that would make the 1050 a lot better looking. Well, maybe in ten years when they hit their 50th anniversary they'll come out with a 50th anniversary edition that will rock.
where can i get the spring band？
Jay, if you are referring to the spring wrapped around the hopper and powder bar post as seen at 12:57, you get them from Dillon. The part is called Powder Bar Return Spring.
The two second count to allow powder to fall doesn't seem right. I have seen videos of people using the Mark 7 fully automated system and pumping out over 1,100 rounds a hour. This would be impossible with a two second count on each powder drop.
Steven, I am not familiar with the Mark 7 so I am not sure how much, in any, powder doesn't find its way into the case when reloading 1,100 rounds an hour. But I suspect it has more to do with the actual powder being used rather than the machine. I have noticed that on light powders (not light loads, but relatively light flake/ball/etc), they seem to 'float' down the Dillon powder funnel into the case as opposed to 'fall' down. So if one were to operate the press too quickly, a few flakes of powder may not make it into the case (as I show in the slow motion portion of the video) and end up on the bench. Your larger, extruded rifle powders fall quickly and probably would not need a 2 second count. Hope this makes sense.
how does h110 or 296 meter thru dillion??
Sorry Kirk, I am not familiar with those powders.
It meters very well for me.
I’m having issues with my hopper dumping powder with extruded powder
What dies are you using ?
I prefer the Redding dies. Especially their micro-adjustable bullet seating and crimping. (But keep in mind that I only reload straight walled metallic.)
Not sure I ever answered this, but I use mostly Redding dies.
The thicker powder bar is black so you won’t see powder if it is still leaking? 😂😂😂
I just got my 550B set back up. Was loading some .38s. Noticed the powder drops and was wondering...
Thanks for the video.
The powder is usually silver. It will show up very well on that black bar if it’s leaking.
What happened to me is that when rptating the shell plate in mi 550, powder jumped everywhere when ot clicked.
So, just put my finger over the case mouth i just loaded before rotating and putting the bullet in it. Problem solved.
Remind me of movie casino “It’s considered leakage”
BTW i've been looking for "trail boss" for like 2 years never seen in in stock anywhere. Not sure its even real :). If you have a line on a place I can get some appreciate it.
I usually get my powder and primers from Powder Valley, but I don't think they have any. I tried Trail Boss once. Did not find it that special. They intentionally designed it to be a donut-shape wafer and (it is my understanding they) added some inert ingredients to increase the individual size. This lead to larger volume charges which leads to fuller cases. Theoretically, this will help the handloader from double or triple charging their loads, especially in 45 LC which is a popular load with Cowboy Action shooters. This is one reason why Hodgdon says 'additional safety to the handloader'.
For others who might be reading these comments, 45 Long Colt was originally designed when black powder was the only powder. You need a lot more black powder to deliver the same charge as smokeless powder. So 45 Long Colt cases are big and when the world switched to smokeless powder, the size of the 45 Long Colt did not change so it became easy to double/triple charge a case which will have catastrophic results.
@@knowledge2you Thats why I want to try trailboss. I use 231 or win 244 which hardly fills the case. If you shoot with the powder away from the primer vs on the primer you get two different pressures. With trail boss that cant happen because it fills the case like the old black powder did.
@@Physics072 I hope it becomes available soon.
Do you have a link for the spring used on the powder bar?
Sorry, no link. I had to call Dillon twice. The first time the person told me that stopped making those 15 years ago. The second time the person knew they are powder bar return springs as a replacement part and I ordered two of them.
knowledge2you I think I found it: www.dillonprecision.com/square-deal-square-deal-b-individual-parts_8_43_25379.html (part 14036)
Is this still correct?
sburnsy13 yes I just bought 2 of them about a month ago
I think the actual facts would reveal that a Dillon press has never produced a double charged case, instead it's the idiot pulling the handle.
“idiot” is kind of a strong word. Everyone has lapses of attention and/or errors in judgement. With that said, I have loaded thousands and thousands of .38 with Bullseye powder. I’ve never had any indication of a double charge, excess charge, or insufficient charge. I check my charge weights probably way too often. I am constantly amazed at how consistent the weights are.
My square deal b leaks also
It's the same powder tube
I found I was bouncing the case on the downward stroke . It's not bolted to a wall it's on a rolling cart that weighs 500 lbs loaded but now I'm going to video it in operation and use your tips and put the springs on the return for extra measurements
If all fails I won't give up on the best press ever it's the Donald trump of presses !!!
Replace the Dillon powder measure with an RCBS... way better
Sell the Dillon on eBay to fund the RCBS
Ahh hint that you created the issue when you showed how you attempted to polish the square powder bar opening and enlarged it. Causing a domino effect of phone calls and parts. Old saying, if its not broke don't fix it! :)
Maybe you need to watch the video again. Did you not hear me say at 9:50, that if you like to polish the powder measure body, ONLY polish the funnel part? And where I clearly say that if you polish the area where the spacer bar and powder bar go, you run the risk of enlarging the area and causing powder leakage? At no point in the video did I say or recommend polishing the area of the powder measure body where the spacer bar and powder bar go. Polishing the inside of the funnel will not contribute to powder leakage.
The only polishing I recommend is of the funnel part of the powder measure (as stated earlier) and possibly the insides of the drop tube and the powder funnel I describe at 15:50. Polishing the inside of the drop tube and the inside of the powder funnel will not cause powder leakage. And in my case, I did not polish the insides of the drop tube or powder funnel because the tool marks were so aggressive, polishing would not achieve anything. But I also said that in the video.
@@knowledge2you Yea thanks I did see that you said you run the risk. I took that as you already did that and were warning others not to do the same.
@@Physics072 Thanks for the reply. No, never did that but I have heard of others doing it, so I added it to the video to warn about what we are both saying.
Shitcan the external leakage, put the return spring on the powder bar so its held up tight in the measure where it belongs and you'll have no more leakage problems. I've got 4 of those measures and a return spring on every one and never have had that stupid external linkage to operate the bar and I've had ZERO powder leakage problems. Let the cases LIFT THE MEASURE AND OPERATE IT VIA THE EXPANDER OR FUNNEL. Its really that simple.
Deeremeyer1, just to be clear, even when using the linkage assembly, it is the case, not the linkage assembly, that lifts the powder measure via upward pressure on the powder funnel causing the powder bar to move rearward and drop the powder.
Also, powder leakage can happen if the spacer bar is too thin. Regardless of linkage assembly and/or powder bar return spring.
No worries there's plenty more on that DOUBLE Charged case right after forgetting to manually advance that shell plate, the 550 has powder problems yes sir, that leakage should be the least of your worries! After all it has produced more double charges and blown up more guns than any other press...Go Dillon:(
And what is your source that Dillon's 550 has produced more double charges and blown up more guns than any other press?
@@knowledge2you
I'd also like to know or are you just trashing the product. Checked your page and I don't see any loading info on there
Double charge is human error. Not the press.