You're very welcome! I know my videos are long and I always do my best to remove all unnecessary portions from the raw footage, but you can't have a very detailed video that's also very short... and I think there's more value in the details, since they can help somebody repeat the procedure without too much effort.
Hi from Tasmania ( Australia) very exact format....WELL DONE I have a 2013 Kia Sportage Diesel and have used your channel for doing repairs...Just clicked over 217000 KMS and still going strong, Thank You. Pete.
Hi Pete! I'm very happy to hear that you've found my content useful! I have some more work planned on our Sportage in the near future, including transmission fluid flush and front suspension work, so stay tuned for more 😀
Wonderful and information was fantastic just one question in the past I have just used a little rain water to top up the level is this okay? Never had a problem... Mark
Hi! Rainwater in itself is distilled, but it also carries various substances (dust and other pollutants) that it picks up from the air and which you inevitably introduce into the cooling system. Just a little amount should not cause problems, but I would definitely not substitute distilled water for tap water or rain water when I do a coolant change.
Such a great video explaining the procedures. However, I do have one question.. How long do you leave the car to cool down before draining the coolant out? 10 minutes? 1 hour? Or until the radiator cap is cool to the touch?
Hi! I usually wait between 45 minutes and 1 hour from the moment I turn the engine off to the moment I start the next coolant drain. If you're doing the procedure on a hot day, extend the waiting interval between 1 hour and 1.5 hours.
@@TheMissingBolt It seems as G11 should not be used. My mechanic highly recommended that I should look for other coolant. Now I am searching for alternative. In the meanwhile I found out that Asian vehicles use coolant with phosphates and not with silicates. It seems as G11 has silicates. The G11 coolant I got does not say "silicate free". It seems as authorized car services do not care what happens with your car. If in several years you got a leak somewhere, or pump failure, you cannot prove that it is because of bad antifreeze. Plus they get extra work for repair job.
@@rimad6882 The HEPU coolant that I used in the video, as well as the green variant, are rated silicate-free as well as being G11. I’ve had no issues using it on either the Sportage or the Cee’d.
Very detailed video. Nicely explained..If my system have like 40% antifreeze, can i just suck out all liquid inside reservoir tank and fill it with 100% antifreeze & repeat until i got 50-50? My car is kia sorento 2017 and i think its similar sistem with your sportage.
The reservoir should hold about 0.5 - 0.7 liters of coolant. Your solution should definitely work, but keep in mind that the coolant in the reservoir will mix with the rest of the system over many days of driving (i.e. multiple cycles of engine on - engine off, in order to facilitate coolant warming and cooling). Until the mix becomes homogenous, you shouldn't do another drain and fill of the reservoir, since the antifreeze percentage in the reservoir will still be different from that in the rest of the system (so your measurements will be incorrect). However, also keep in mind that it's not only important to keep the antifreeze percentage at about 50 %, but also to still have corrosion additives in the antifreeze. That's why I'd rather recommend a complete coolant change if you haven't already done it.
@@TheMissingBolt thanks for explanation. I had followed your stepd to the letters. I did 7 drains only because the last drain pretty much very clear. After 2 days, i checked with antifreeze gauge and it shows only -29degC about 40% antifreeze. Probably due to the front of my car is tilted during the drain & fill so the drain and fill is not thorough im not sure. Since filling from reservoir isnt good idea, now im thinking to just siphon out some coolant from radiator cap and fill with antifreeze to bring it up to 50%. Because re-opening the underbody cover is just a hassle. What do you think?
@@gulagulasusu Yes, siphoning water from the radiator directly should only require a single fill operation. You can check out the calculations from 28:50 to figure out how much coolant you actually need to drain and replace with 100 % antifreeze in order to get to the 50-50 concentration.
Hi The Missing Bolt , Thank you for a very good tutorial and applied Mathematics. Bravo for being European and keeping it in an international format with english language. How did you get the workshop manual for the Car/engine and is it a printed version? According to EU law the car manufactures must make all service information available , however unlike Toyota I find Kia unpleasant tight keeping all information a big secret. I can find the chassis information from the American site , but that does not cover the 2l diesel engine . About the coolant, Is the factory coolant also G11 with a max life of 3 service years? If Yes , how can it be Kia claims it will last 10 years? and the new charge of G11 only 2 years, I find this strange! Did you consider other coolant like G12 or G12+ that is also for alu , but has a longer service life? Good to replace the Radiator cap , but how about the thermostat ? it is of the same 100 years old design as the radiator cap :-)
Hi! I'm glad you like the video. Regarding the manual, to be honest, I was not able to get my hands on a printed version. Depending on the operation, there are free online resources available, such as for example www.kispmanual.com/third_generation_sl_2010_2016_-3.html. Regarding coolant types, I know that theoretically G12 and G12+ are better and longer-lasting than G11. But since this is the coolant type the car shipped with originally, I didn't want to risk it and stuck to the same type. Regarding the thermostat, it seems to be working just fine for now even though the car just reached the 100K mile mark. I'll definitely replace it when it starts to act up.
That works when you want to do a single drain & fill. If you want a flush, using pre-mixed during each of the drains & fills will be considerably more expensive than just using distilled water. Also, what happens if you check and find that the mix you already have in the system is no longer 50:50? In that case, you need separate concentrated coolant and distilled water and calculate the correct amounts to pour in in order to restore the 50:50 mix. Lastly, this is the exact coolant replacement procedure as given in the Kia workshop manual.
@@TheMissingBolt fair point. Up here Canada 50/50 is the standard mix that comes with new vehicles. Even the Kia dealers here use the stuff because it's faster for them as well. The pre-mix here is fairly inexpensive for a 4 liter jug. So doing a full flush with that mix will still be an option. I've done it this way a few times (2.0 T-GDI) with no issues so far. I also use a MityVac Cooloant vacuum refill system which helps speed things up as well.
@@homewrecker44 Fair enough. Where I live a liter of distilled water is about 0.5 $ whereas a liter of G11 coolant is about 4 $, so makes sense to dilute with water only.
See at 36:26. The best solution I found was to use toilet cleaner or drain cleaner (containing either hidrochloric acid or sulfuric acid). The concentrations in these solutions is not high enough to damage the plastic casing, however be very careful when manipulating those solutions as the acids can easily burn skin.
Salutare! Da, scutul pe care îl am eu se potrivește pe Kia Sportage 2011 - 2015. Se poate lua de aici: www.autogedal.ro/scut-motor-metalic-kia-sportage-dupa-2011.html. Este posibil ca la instalare sa fie nevoie de câteva mici intervenții pe la colțuri cu un flex (la mine așa s-a întâmplat) dar per total se instalează ușor și chiar iși merita banii.
Un Kia sportage din 2012 diesel 184 Hp are 2 termostate ? Mă lovesc de o problema și nu ii dau de cap , am schimbat antigelul exact cum ați explicat doar ca de 5 ori , mai exact a 5 a oară am adăugat antigel iar temperatura creste peste 90 * , am schimbat și cu un termostat nou am înlocuit și capacul de la radiator , in motor nu este antigel și nici nivelul uleiului nu este crescut , mă poți ajuta cu in sfat ? Mulțumesc
@@andreiAZZ Nivelul lichidului de racire este constant sau scade în timp - cu alte cuvinte, exista pierdere de lichid de răcire pe undeva? Ce va indica densimetrul ca temperatura de fierbere și răcire pentru lichidul de răcire actual? Ce tip de antigel ati folosit? Temperatura se stabilizează la o valoare peste 90 de grade sau creste pana în zona roșie?
@@TheMissingBolt am schimbat tot antigelul și pe cel vechi l-am aruncat , nu scade nivelul in vas , am folosit același antigel ca Dvs , temperatura in bord sta la 90 dar atunci când e solicitat motorul mai tare urca pana la 130
Job goes a lot faster if you use a plastic canister/funnel like this guy: ruclips.net/video/C0YY4TsWT7c/видео.html . It is faster, easier this way. Also the system ventilates much better. I taped plastic bottle and used it as funnel. If you try this method, you will get more fluid into system, and drain more - if you do more than one drain. Regarding math. I flushed with distilled water until I got very clean - but not completely colorless drain. So, I can assume what is left is only distilled water. My system holds about 6l of coolant. So I need to insert 3l of 100% coolant concentrate. If there is any room left I put distilled water. So, no need for math if you flush sufficient number of times.
I didn't have that kind of funnel when I filmed the video, though I did get one later on. It actually takes about 4 - 5 drains & fills with water to remove over 95 % of the old coolant. I know 11+ iterations were overkill, but I did it as an exercise. You probably have a petrol engine that needs only 6L of coolant, in which case you're right, a single fill of 3L 100 % concentrated coolant is fine. But the video is targeted specifically for the 2.0 Diesel engine, which takes 8+ L and a single coolant fill is not sufficient to reach the 50 - 50 concentration. The math part can be extrapolated to any vehicle with a large-enough coolant system.
Definitely not. I did that more as an experiment to see how the coolant mix color and freezing temperature change as I replace more of it with water. But in practice, 5 drains & fills with water will remove 95 % of the old coolant mix, which is sufficient. A garage may tipically charge you per single drain & fill, so you can probably ask them to do it more than once.
Wow... Thank you. I was thinking 50 minutes would be a waste of time... NO! This video is scientific and love the maths.
You're very welcome! I know my videos are long and I always do my best to remove all unnecessary portions from the raw footage, but you can't have a very detailed video that's also very short... and I think there's more value in the details, since they can help somebody repeat the procedure without too much effort.
Hi from Tasmania ( Australia) very exact format....WELL DONE I have a 2013 Kia Sportage Diesel and have used your channel for doing repairs...Just clicked over 217000 KMS and still going strong, Thank You. Pete.
Hi Pete! I'm very happy to hear that you've found my content useful! I have some more work planned on our Sportage in the near future, including transmission fluid flush and front suspension work, so stay tuned for more 😀
Thanks my friend, nice video and explanation.
Bravo.Totul clar si bine facut.
Multumesc mult!
Wonderful and information was fantastic just one question in the past I have just used a little rain water to top up the level is this okay? Never had a problem... Mark
Hi! Rainwater in itself is distilled, but it also carries various substances (dust and other pollutants) that it picks up from the air and which you inevitably introduce into the cooling system. Just a little amount should not cause problems, but I would definitely not substitute distilled water for tap water or rain water when I do a coolant change.
Such a great video explaining the procedures. However, I do have one question.. How long do you leave the car to cool down before draining the coolant out? 10 minutes? 1 hour? Or until the radiator cap is cool to the touch?
Hi! I usually wait between 45 minutes and 1 hour from the moment I turn the engine off to the moment I start the next coolant drain. If you're doing the procedure on a hot day, extend the waiting interval between 1 hour and 1.5 hours.
@TheMissingBolt Thank you for your response! Subscribed!
@@PaekSukis Thank you very much!
KIA dealer in my country also suggested G11 (blue) coolant, for kia ceed ed 2011 1.4. They don't even have original kia coolant.
Yes, I got the "blue" G11 recommendation from my local Kia dealer as well.
@@TheMissingBolt It seems as G11 should not be used. My mechanic highly recommended that I should look for other coolant. Now I am searching for alternative. In the meanwhile I found out that Asian vehicles use coolant with phosphates and not with silicates. It seems as G11 has silicates. The G11 coolant I got does not say "silicate free". It seems as authorized car services do not care what happens with your car. If in several years you got a leak somewhere, or pump failure, you cannot prove that it is because of bad antifreeze. Plus they get extra work for repair job.
@@rimad6882 The HEPU coolant that I used in the video, as well as the green variant, are rated silicate-free as well as being G11. I’ve had no issues using it on either the Sportage or the Cee’d.
Very detailed video. Nicely explained..If my system have like 40% antifreeze, can i just suck out all liquid inside reservoir tank and fill it with 100% antifreeze & repeat until i got 50-50? My car is kia sorento 2017 and i think its similar sistem with your sportage.
The reservoir should hold about 0.5 - 0.7 liters of coolant. Your solution should definitely work, but keep in mind that the coolant in the reservoir will mix with the rest of the system over many days of driving (i.e. multiple cycles of engine on - engine off, in order to facilitate coolant warming and cooling). Until the mix becomes homogenous, you shouldn't do another drain and fill of the reservoir, since the antifreeze percentage in the reservoir will still be different from that in the rest of the system (so your measurements will be incorrect). However, also keep in mind that it's not only important to keep the antifreeze percentage at about 50 %, but also to still have corrosion additives in the antifreeze. That's why I'd rather recommend a complete coolant change if you haven't already done it.
@@TheMissingBolt thanks for explanation. I had followed your stepd to the letters. I did 7 drains only because the last drain pretty much very clear. After 2 days, i checked with antifreeze gauge and it shows only -29degC about 40% antifreeze. Probably due to the front of my car is tilted during the drain & fill so the drain and fill is not thorough im not sure. Since filling from reservoir isnt good idea, now im thinking to just siphon out some coolant from radiator cap and fill with antifreeze to bring it up to 50%. Because re-opening the underbody cover is just a hassle. What do you think?
@@gulagulasusu Yes, siphoning water from the radiator directly should only require a single fill operation. You can check out the calculations from 28:50 to figure out how much coolant you actually need to drain and replace with 100 % antifreeze in order to get to the 50-50 concentration.
@@TheMissingBolt thanks a bunch mate!
Hi The Missing Bolt , Thank you for a very good tutorial and applied Mathematics. Bravo for being European and keeping it in an international format with english language.
How did you get the workshop manual for the Car/engine and is it a printed version? According to EU law the car manufactures must make all service information available , however unlike Toyota I find Kia unpleasant tight keeping all information a big secret. I can find the chassis information from the American site , but that does not cover the 2l diesel engine .
About the coolant, Is the factory coolant also G11 with a max life of 3 service years? If Yes , how can it be Kia claims it will last 10 years? and the new charge of G11 only 2 years, I find this strange! Did you consider other coolant like G12 or G12+ that is also for alu , but has a longer service life?
Good to replace the Radiator cap , but how about the thermostat ? it is of the same 100 years old design as the radiator cap :-)
Hi! I'm glad you like the video. Regarding the manual, to be honest, I was not able to get my hands on a printed version. Depending on the operation, there are free online resources available, such as for example www.kispmanual.com/third_generation_sl_2010_2016_-3.html. Regarding coolant types, I know that theoretically G12 and G12+ are better and longer-lasting than G11. But since this is the coolant type the car shipped with originally, I didn't want to risk it and stuck to the same type. Regarding the thermostat, it seems to be working just fine for now even though the car just reached the 100K mile mark. I'll definitely replace it when it starts to act up.
A question. You explain like an Engineer. Are you and if so, which field?
Haha! Yes, my degree is in computer science and engineering.
Just buy pre-mixed 50/50 coolant. It's so much easier and quicker.
That works when you want to do a single drain & fill. If you want a flush, using pre-mixed during each of the drains & fills will be considerably more expensive than just using distilled water. Also, what happens if you check and find that the mix you already have in the system is no longer 50:50? In that case, you need separate concentrated coolant and distilled water and calculate the correct amounts to pour in in order to restore the 50:50 mix. Lastly, this is the exact coolant replacement procedure as given in the Kia workshop manual.
@@TheMissingBolt fair point. Up here Canada 50/50 is the standard mix that comes with new vehicles. Even the Kia dealers here use the stuff because it's faster for them as well. The pre-mix here is fairly inexpensive for a 4 liter jug. So doing a full flush with that mix will still be an option. I've done it this way a few times (2.0 T-GDI) with no issues so far. I also use a MityVac Cooloant vacuum refill system which helps speed things up as well.
@@homewrecker44 Fair enough. Where I live a liter of distilled water is about 0.5 $ whereas a liter of G11 coolant is about 4 $, so makes sense to dilute with water only.
how did you clean the reservoir?
See at 36:26. The best solution I found was to use toilet cleaner or drain cleaner (containing either hidrochloric acid or sulfuric acid). The concentrations in these solutions is not high enough to damage the plastic casing, however be very careful when manipulating those solutions as the acids can easily burn skin.
@@TheMissingBolt thanks
Salut , de unde ai cumpărat Scutul de metal ? Pe potrivește și pe un sportage din 2012 ? Mulțumesc
Salutare! Da, scutul pe care îl am eu se potrivește pe Kia Sportage 2011 - 2015. Se poate lua de aici: www.autogedal.ro/scut-motor-metalic-kia-sportage-dupa-2011.html. Este posibil ca la instalare sa fie nevoie de câteva mici intervenții pe la colțuri cu un flex (la mine așa s-a întâmplat) dar per total se instalează ușor și chiar iși merita banii.
Mulțumesc
Un Kia sportage din 2012 diesel 184 Hp are 2 termostate ? Mă lovesc de o problema și nu ii dau de cap , am schimbat antigelul exact cum ați explicat doar ca de 5 ori , mai exact a 5 a oară am adăugat antigel iar temperatura creste peste 90 * , am schimbat și cu un termostat nou am înlocuit și capacul de la radiator , in motor nu este antigel și nici nivelul uleiului nu este crescut , mă poți ajuta cu in sfat ? Mulțumesc
@@andreiAZZ Nivelul lichidului de racire este constant sau scade în timp - cu alte cuvinte, exista pierdere de lichid de răcire pe undeva? Ce va indica densimetrul ca temperatura de fierbere și răcire pentru lichidul de răcire actual? Ce tip de antigel ati folosit? Temperatura se stabilizează la o valoare peste 90 de grade sau creste pana în zona roșie?
@@TheMissingBolt am schimbat tot antigelul și pe cel vechi l-am aruncat , nu scade nivelul in vas , am folosit același antigel ca Dvs , temperatura in bord sta la 90 dar atunci când e solicitat motorul mai tare urca pana la 130
Job goes a lot faster if you use a plastic canister/funnel like this guy: ruclips.net/video/C0YY4TsWT7c/видео.html . It is faster, easier this way. Also the system ventilates much better. I taped plastic bottle and used it as funnel. If you try this method, you will get more fluid into system, and drain more - if you do more than one drain. Regarding math. I flushed with distilled water until I got very clean - but not completely colorless drain. So, I can assume what is left is only distilled water. My system holds about 6l of coolant. So I need to insert 3l of 100% coolant concentrate. If there is any room left I put distilled water. So, no need for math if you flush sufficient number of times.
I didn't have that kind of funnel when I filmed the video, though I did get one later on. It actually takes about 4 - 5 drains & fills with water to remove over 95 % of the old coolant. I know 11+ iterations were overkill, but I did it as an exercise. You probably have a petrol engine that needs only 6L of coolant, in which case you're right, a single fill of 3L 100 % concentrated coolant is fine. But the video is targeted specifically for the 2.0 Diesel engine, which takes 8+ L and a single coolant fill is not sufficient to reach the 50 - 50 concentration. The math part can be extrapolated to any vehicle with a large-enough coolant system.
11 drains is mad lol. Surely a garage wouldn't do this?
Definitely not. I did that more as an experiment to see how the coolant mix color and freezing temperature change as I replace more of it with water. But in practice, 5 drains & fills with water will remove 95 % of the old coolant mix, which is sufficient. A garage may tipically charge you per single drain & fill, so you can probably ask them to do it more than once.
Esto es un poco más complicado con muchos números.
Mi intención era hacer un video muy detallado.