Thank you for this video! I had watched a few videos on ram pumps, headed to the shop and put one together. I chose a 1 1/4 size drive pipe and pump body. I managed to get most of it right but it would not run. Your trouble shooting tips narrowed down what was wrong with mine. First off I used a line check for my check valve and after your advice I installed a pressure gauge. My reservoir was not holding pressure. I got all the leaks fixed, redid the check valve seat and you showed how to start this thing properly with the supply line full and the delivery line off. A few toggles of the waste valve and she took off at about 20 psi and pumped up to 40 psi. I actually had to add pipe to my delivery side to create enough back pressure to keep my ram running. It's currently pumping water with a gauge reading of around 18 psi. Looking forward to watching your design video. I need to improve performance. As it currently stands, it's pumping about 1/2 gallon a minute.
Thank the stars for RUclipsrs such as yourself. You take away so much of the hassle that can result from inexperienced ram pump peeps such as myself. Thank you
Thank you so much for the kind words! If I ever do a rebuild I might make a build video. I DO plant to do a site selection and calculation walk-through video at some point soon.
Nice job. There was lots of good information, i added a stand pipe the other week and it did help with my double clap. I might have to try different size flapper valves for the discharge side with your suggestion. Many more upgrades to come since it is fun to learn the challenges of the system as a whole. I will be adding filtration to my out pipe and try to use cyclone/gravity to remove some of the heavy particulate that is inevitable in a stream.
fantastic... glad to have helped you! Yeah, the standpipe being 4 inches vs the supply pipe at 2 inches means 4 x the area of pipe traveled... this does 2 things hydraulically... it raises the effective pressure in the 4" standpipe which helps bring fast recovery after each pulse, and it also being 4 X slower travel, as well as up vertically, drops out particles. Yes, it is a lot of fun to experiment with and "build better" every time... at least theoretically... hehe.
Thank you. Great advice. I have trouble keeping mine on or getting over 10 pounds pressure. I put in a stand pipe probably too close to the pump and the cycles sped up really fast like several per second. Also very unstable only working for a minute at best. I removed the stand pipe and it cycles correctly but still not more than 10 pounds and not enough to get up the hill to my homestead. I wonder if a larger size check valve might help..
what size system are you running now? Can you describe your config? or better.. get a video? Here's the Clemson EDU link.. this is SPOT ON design information: www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university I am glad to help if I know enough info to provide advice. cheers! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your almost instant reply!. I will be up at the camp next week and see if I can get it going using your set up with stand pipe further up stream. Best wishes.
Awesome. Very helpful. I have a 3/4 inch pump with 7 ft of head, a 2 inch stand pipe fed by 200 ft supply line and 30 ft of 3/4 inch steel drive pipe. My brass swing valve is cycling 140 times a minute. Which seems a lot. Any thoughts on how to decrease that rate?
Yes, switch the swing valve for an inverted foot valve and add some weights to it. This will lengthen the time between when it opens and closes. There is a "sweet spot" you will have to find. Here's a video: ruclips.net/video/M-sdiGpWZC8/видео.html Thanks for watching and the kind comments!
Pressure vessel issues Hi I built a ram pump about 5 years ago using 1" galvanised parts and its been working pretty well since then. Lately I have been using an 8 litre expansion vessel (as used on central heating systems) as the pressure tank. This has a rubber bladder inside it which can be inflated via an air valve in the top. It works fine for about a year or two but eventually the rubber bladder fails due to the pulsing action. I cant seem to be able to get replacement bladders, and the tank on its own soon becomes waterlogged. Any advice on an alternative tank? it has a 1" male screw fitting on the base.
Yes, Here's a link to the clemson EDU document on ram pumps, they recommend a 3 inch pvc pipe as a chamber with a bike tube inside it. Much cheaper and easier to replace. They recommend not using a threaded fitting on the end as it leaks... However I found that if you put some silicon sealant on the threads it will hold, and still unthread later for maintenance witha wrench or channel locks. www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university
Thank you for the step by step explanation video, but I can not get my ram pump to even work the first swing check valve. I have a 20 ft of head pipe, to the drive side of the pump with a screen at the end to keep the debris and other things from going into my pump. I tried different spots and I also made a small dam and inserted my pipe inside the dam. (Which is only made from the rocks and boulders found in the river bed.) My pump is made of 1-1/4" piping and the chamber is a 4" pvc, with a bicycle inner tube for the air pressure. Also another thing I have river with alot of rushing water, I thought this would be perfect for this ram pump to be working because it would have plenty of water with pressure behind it. The elevation is not alot compare to what I see with others on these channels. What could I be doing wrong?
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork I can upload a video on here. But maybe I can upload it through an email? empirepropertyinvestments1@yahoo.com is my email, if you email me then I can upload it to you.
Why the spring check vs a second swing check like I have seen in most pumps? What do you mean by impetus valve? Is that the first check valve/waste valve?
The spring check is the second valve. A spring check operates a little smoother for that particular function. Impetus valve is the primary valve (the waste valve) It is the valve that takes all the impeding energy (thus the impetus valve). The Swing Check valve is the impetus valve (the waste valve) although I have replaced that with a foot valve for much smoother operation and adjust-ability as well as wear life. ruclips.net/video/vrOgObZ0wos/видео.htmlHope I have answered your questions. cheers!
Hi :) Thank you for your video, it has already been greatly helpful. But i am still stuck. I have set up a 1'' ram pump with 2 meters of input head. The pump is cycling as normal but no water is coming out of the delivery pipe. The delivery pipe had 5 meters of elevation. If I closed the valve to the delivery pipe i was able to generate 28 PSI in the pump, and the pump would still operate with the valve closed. I would slowly open the delivery valve and the pressure would drop until there was not adequate back pressure and the pump would stop. Why was I unable to get water out the delivery pipe? Any help is so greatly appreciated, I am at a loss. Thank you :) :)
Sounds like maybe you're not lettin g enough water develop in the delivery pipe.... keep trying and give the delivery pipe time to fill... might be depleting the pump too fast still. Are you sure you haven't missed any details? Do you have a pressure tank leak? Even a very small pressue tank leak can kill a pump's operation. Also, maybe you should see my ram pump manual video. ruclips.net/video/rxqUkybsxYw/видео.html Either way, let me know how you're making out. oh, and you're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Try to use a stainless steel swing valve as waste valve, it is much better than brass valve. You can compare, and also my ram pump design is the waste valve is on the forward part and the spring check valve is in vertical position, but I remove the spring because of sometime there is unusual heartbeat at waste valve and the pump is stop. Now my pump is more than a month continously working. By the way I use an 8 gallon capacity bladder tank at my ram pump.
Yeah.. stainless is on my eventual upgrade list... as well as steel drive pipe and few other upgrades. This is an old video.. I am now running a modified foot valve.. much smoother much better control. I'll have a look at your setup. cheers!
Great videos been watching for ours and tried making one as you described I have 4’ drop to pump with 1.25 drive line and valves over a 42’ span and valves to .75 outlet line with 20’ of head. I can build 40psi in tank it only by manually pressing valve, the check valve just won’t rigger itself on/off any suggestions would be great thanks
Hey Thanks! Hmm.. Any chance you can share a video so I can get a better idea of what you are working with? Is your outlet side AT LEAST 23 ft above the pump? Also, maybe my "Ram Pump The Manual" video will help? ruclips.net/video/rxqUkybsxYw/видео.html
Also, have you looked at the Clemson link I shared in the description of this video? Here's a link: www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork I went through the Clemson and it mentions not to use the spring valve, I think I have everything correct except the waste valve so I will replace that tomorrow, Thank you and I will send a video of it up and running :)
Ok. First, I thank you for response! Here goes, I’m trying to run my ram pump from an irrigation ditch which is probably not idea for my drive pipe. It has a slight curve to it. I built a 1 1/2 ram pump with 110 ft of 11/2 drive pipe, with a 4”x32”pressure tank filled with a 3”x28” pool noodle. From the top of the drive pipe to the end of the pump I only have 2.71 ft of head pressure. Cycle time and GPM were in previous comment. Am expecting too much?
ok... I think you might be expecting too much. What elevation are you pumping to? What size delivery line do you have to that elevation? 2.71 ft of head isnt much. Another thing, cycles per second will vary greatly especially with drive pipe megth... I would expect a much longer cycle time on 110ft of drive pipe. Mine drive pipe is only 34 feet. What are you using for a valve? Have you seen any of my latest videos on calculations, valve size, weight adjustments? They all have some good pointers / additional info. I hope this helps answer some of your questions. Let me know if I can help more.
The Farmacy Seeds Network Pumping to an elevation of 10 feet and delivery line is 3/4. Also using a 1 1/2 brass swing check valve and a 1/2 lb spring check valve. I thought maybe with a more rapid cycle on the swing check valve either there would be a increase in volume or pressure. Since I’m getting the volume that I am I guess this pump is a success! Thank you for taking the time to respond!
Oh ok... Yes, I can see why you are thinking what you are... Yes... I'd recommend changing to a 1.5 inch yellow brass foot valve as the impetus valve... A couple helpful vids:ruclips.net/video/grBdwsrsOA8h/видео.htmlttps://ruclips.net/video/M-g2kpysKYoh/видео.htmlttps://ruclips.net/video/vrOgObZ0wos/видео.html this would allow a LOT of adjust-ability in valve speed.... at that low pumping height I'd expect more volume delivery... I find there is a "sweet spot" on cycles per second... hard to define thus far... but here is my assessment:ruclips.net/video/KXdtPaMTPDI/видео.html I think either way... pumping water for free after the install cost... is a success... :) My pump is saving my ass through this dry spell on the farm! Let me know if I can help anymore and thanks for supporting the TFSN youtube channel!
I think..? I may have found some answers. Just bought a new pvc half inch ram pump, and we are noobs, so we couldn't get the thing to work. My little creek has very little drop, or head, or fall... I think I may have a foot or two? It behaved different when I hooked up garden hose as my drive pipe, and then when I hooked up 1/2 inch poly pipe. Now hubs has some crazy contraption made of 2 five gallon buckets laid sideways in the creek, connected to two 1 inch pvc pipes about 9 feet or so long, hooked to a T that goes into the half inch poly pipe, right after a 15 ft tall stand pipe, also one inch. The 1/2 inch poly is 100 ft from stand pipe to ram pump. We are still not gettin' much. Have been tryin' to get the thing running for 4 days. The water trickles out the top of the first check valve with the flapper that shuts. But it won't activate that flapper. We even turned it sidewways, spent time getting all the air out, siphoned. I left the line not hooked up to the pump and water is coming out of it. The only thing I can think is that we have the drive line too long from stand pipe to pump, and the long part should be on the collection end to stand pipe. Which means we will have to invest in a long section of larger diameter pipe to lay down, which is out of budget at this time. The other stuff we had laying around, but is straight. We have a bendy creek that meanders a lot with little drop. We have yet to hear even one "thunk". Sad... I liked and subscribed. Have been uploading kind of long... videos of the progress on this ram pump as best I can. Hard to work and film at the same time, in water, with a phone. lol Fell on my butt once in the creek and almost wiped out both my phones. Missed it by like an inch. lol
Sorry to hear of your frustration. I am working on a new design and site selection video. Should be out in a week or less. Should help you sort through your issues. Yeah, filming and working is tough... then there's hours of editing! :)
yes... make the angle the water is traveling before entering the valve much less than 90 degrees... please check the manual I shared the link too... it really explains the ram pump theory very well. you want approximately a 1/4 slope... 4 feet over for every 1 foot drop (or meters or whatever increment fits). My pump has approximately 7 feet of drop it's 35 feet of pipe over that 7 feet of drop... so mine has a 1 to 5 ratio or 1/5. There is a minimum and maximum drive pipe length based on the diameter of the pipe. My calcs for my pump (1.5 inch) were between 34 feet and 117 feet for drive pipe length.... so that's a ratio range of approx 1/5 to 1/16. the longer it is... the more weight in water that is acting as a continuous hydraulic piston ... so the cycle will be slower. As a general rule the slower the cycle, the more efficient the pump will become. This is due to the higher water velocity which imparts more hydraulic pressure on the spring valve which, in turn , drives more water into the pressure chamber's "resistance". I hope this helps.
Technically yes... but if it starts and runs.. it should keep cycling unless there is an issue. My 1.5 inch ram would run any valve size between 1.5 and .5 inches but with greatly depreciated water production on the valves other than 1.5 inches. If it stops a few hours afterward, you might have a leak in your pressure chamber or a water supply issue. What kind of valve are you using for the primary valve (impetus valve)?
How about if there is no bladder or bicycle tube in pressure tank. My ram pump the pressure tank is empty frion and dont have the room to put a bicycle tube.
It will work ok.. but be sure to keep an eye on it.. if the output starts "surging".. you'll need to drain it and let air back into the pressure tank. The problem is, with no bladder, over time the air dissolves into the water and eventually you have no "buffer" for the pressure surges. This can tear apart the pump and plumbing. But it should work ok as long as you keep an eye on it.
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork thank you for a reply, in a single 1" ram pump, I install 3 1" plus 3/4" waste valve, the delivery(garden hose) 1/2 270 meter and approx 35 meter from the source, from the source of water to the ram pump is approximately 7 meters vertical and very good volume of water. With this system, I got a very good result. Started with a single waste valve, it doest not work with that distance and vertical height.
use the clemson.edu link in your design.. there are length and width and vertical fall parameters to stay within. www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-universityWhy are you using 3 1" waste valves? you only need one waste valve.. and one check valve.
no reducer is needed. remember hydraulic pressure is distributed equally across all structures within the system. a reducer is not necessary nor beneficial.
Thanks for the great video. I know this is a pretty old video. I hope you still monitor questions. I have plenty of water and fall. No leaks. My swing check valve slams pretty hard when you get the inlet pipe full. But it will not release. I operate the valve by hand for 10 minutes, enough that the pressure chamber should build pressure with the discharge ball valve off. Slams shut hard every time but will not release by itself. Help !!🤣😂
Sounds like maybe you don't have enough air in the pressure chamber.. are you POSITIVE there are no leaks? You need that "air cushion" for the valve to bounce back off of. Let me know and we'll continue diagnostics.
Sirrr please help me I built my own ram pump, the swing valves are cycling, my problem is that I cant pumo water into the 3rd floor building what problems do I have.
You need to locate and buy a Audell's plumbing book. #1 It is best to have the drive pipe steel. Even better to have the steel pipe incased in concrete. You do not want the shock absorbed by a flex in the drive line. That takes away from its effectiveness. If the check valve is spring loaded, you won't have the trouble with priming it. You're using a stand pipe at the top of the drive line instead of a barrel at the top. It is critical that there's one foot of water standing in that stand pipe. Why? Because you don't want the shock absorbed through lack of weight. That's why you hear the thump sound in the stand pipe. That also takes away its effectiveness.The shock is able to push up against the water. again losing shock. You want shock! It is not .433. It is .434 So. 28 psi is equal to a feed line height of about 20 feet. Increasing the pressure doesn't increase volume. That's determined by the size of the delivery pipe. I had a $1800 Rife. When it was working it made that 1 1/2" galvanized pipe ring! You are better off running from the spring in to a barrel with the spring water dumping into the top of the barrel and the drive line coming off the bottom. You need a needle valve below the pressure tank check valve. This pulls air into the pressure tank and prevents a water log. It also opens the impulse valve.Nature abhors a vacuum.Bulk head fittings are cheap. But don't listen to a plumber with 41 years of experience. Go to the Rife web site.
Yes I don't know if it's in this video, but I have definitely mentioned upgrading to steel pipe and concrete immersed mounts... it will definitely increase the efficiency! My standpipe has at least 1 foot of water overhead now, so I am all over it. Good advice and thanks for the good comments!
If it was me. I know I'm not there, but. I'd have a container of some sort(A plastic 55 gallon drum) where you have your standpipe. That is your reservoir. Thats assuming you can get your spring water to dump into the top of that reservoir. Bulkhead fittings are very inexpensive. That's what you would use for the outlet at the bottom.(the inlet also) They have a female iron pipe thread on both sides. Strainer that can be unthreaded for cleaning on the inside. As few offsets as possible in the drive pipe. You can get the angles close enough with a simple protractor. One angle at each end. Take the pipe to a welding shop and have them heat and bend the ends a reasonable distance from the threads. From level to slope angle and back to level. You want the barrel and pump level. Bolt the pump down! Bolt everything down. Pile heavy rocks around the pipe. Make it so it doesn't flex. When it rings in operation, you've done well.That's why, if you can, you put a barrel in. You want the tremendous weight of that column of water to counteract the drive line water shock back up the line There's a hydraulic shock that you do not want absorbed by anything. I didn't see, but aspirating the pressure tank is easy, peasy. A small hole drilled and tapped just below the check valve to the pressure tank will pull a small amount of air in as the vacuum is eliminated. A needle screw will work. Nature abhors a vacuum. When the water goes into the pressure tank, it creates a vacuum behind that valve. That's what pulls open the impulse valve. The drive line distance should be five times the head. There's only one reason to increase the size of the delivery line. To increase volume. Not height. The resistance is reduced when the size is increased. It would be nice if you could adjust the impullse valve travel. This helps in setting the GPM . Water should burst out of the impulse valve when it closes. I saw a You Tube video that was pretty good. I'll see if I can find it. You'll be amazed how well they work.
sounds good... I'll look forward to the link... and yes I understand pipe size vs volume and resistance.. 3/4 was all I could swing on my puny budget... 800 feet adds up quick in price/ft... def check some of my newer videos... you will see upgrades in the direction of what you are saying. You're advice is nonetheless appreciated! cheers!
Thank you! See the clemson edu link in the description for pressure chamber sizing. The tennis balls are effectively "air balls"... they absorb the hydraulic shock that would otherwise occur on the piping... and also provide the delay or buffer for the water pressure to be released into the deliver line while the pump runs the next cycle. you can use all sorts of things.. a bike tire tube, pool noodle, anything with air in it.
keeps a consistent volume of water available to the pump as well as allowing the shock-wave to dissipate... effectively changes the tuning of the ram. the longer the drive pipe, the longer the stroke, you reach a point where it becomes impractical physically. The standpipe removes that issue. My pump would be VERY slow and not work very well without a standpipe.
Hi , the issue with my RAM pump is that the inlet check valve remains closed , however I am able to get significant pressure at the output and I am able to pump up water upto 25 feet . Is that normal . Does the value cycling stop if the line is completely air free . Plz advice .
I'm not sure if you mean the impetus valve on the drive pipe side or the valve going into the pressure chamber. If the pressure chamber is air free, it will likely stop or even run for a bit but it is very hard on the fittings and plumbing. Hope this helps.
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork Thank you for your prompt response . I was referring to the impetus valve … the pump is able to send water up 30 feet without evening the cycling action .. I am not able to figure out the reason as to y. Also I am getting an output of 5 gallons per min at around 20 psi on the output side . Kindly advise .
very nice.. I suspect mine would as well.. I've just never tested it as the goal is always more water.. :) I suspect you could even coax operation out of it with 1 foot or even 8 inches of head... just wouldn't deliver a lot of water... but depending on your application, it might be enough.
The Farmacy Seeds Network I double checked and yes it’s installed correctly. I can link a video of it later but I got it running but it only works with the waste valve on its side at about 45° angle. I also didn’t glue any of the pvc drive pipe which I figured it would be sucking air in and causing that. My ram pump specs are: 3/4 drive and 3/4 ram pump with garden hose delivery Pipe. 42 foot drive pipe, 3/4 About 2 foot drop maybe more A 17 inch pressure chamber, 3 inch pvc with bike tube inside For test purposes I got just a garden hose propped in the air on a shovel so about 3 foot rise. Water flow is pretty low but I’m just irrigation garden so I don’t need much. If you have any advice that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Cody
ok... I definitely would glue up.. also.. garden hose is way to flexible for good efficiency.. you want a good hard drive pipe like SCH 40 pvc or better. 2 ft of drop is definitely on the low end. You REALLY have to tweak it well to get it delivering much water on that little bit of drop. Def link the video. I'll check it out.
The Farmacy Seeds Network I got the video link here: ruclips.net/video/pIbhvju4juA/видео.html I’d say it will pump 15 gallons after about 1-2 hours so efficient it is non existent... do you think 42 foot drive pipe is good with a 2-3 foot drop? Or should I shorten or lengthen it? Thanks again for the advice!
No I'm sorry I don't... That's part of the idea... you can build your own!If you are looking to buy one, talk to the guy who runs this channel: ruclips.net/video/e0HSMtpb53U/видео.html and tell him I sent you.
No I don't make them for sale. My videos are for those that want to make their own. If you want to buy one, maybe go over to Land to House's channel on youtube. He sells pumps and has numerous videos also. Tell him I sent you!
i have designed a hydram but its not working, fall is 3m and the pressure is pretty good enough but still the waste valve is getting stuck and not playing even for a single time. its frustrating. Do we need to put a bladder inside the tank and do we need to pump air into the tank on a regular interval? I'm doing this project to supply water from a spring in a remote tribal village. I need your help. please reply drive.google.com/file/d/1-2YmjGghHlKsa9EB2oXdo2d6HZBc9nwk/view
I think I can help yes.. Glad to try... How long is your drive pipe? what is it's diameter?Yes, the air tank needs to have air.. but you dont need to pressurisize it in. You can just drain the whole tank of water.. then turn on supply and prime / start the pump. If the valve is sticking it might be a couple different things. If your drive pipe is too long or short, that could cause interference waves that could stick the valve. Usually if my valve iss ticking there is air in the drive pipe with prevents good water hammer because it "eats up" a good chucnk of the shockwave and then the valve cant "bounce" back off it's seat for the next cycle. I need a little more info but am glad to help you through this. Let me know what other info you can and I will try n help you work through it.
Also.. Have you gone over this info here: www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university It is EXCELLENT for designing a ram pump. Also is your output side under at least 10 PSI?
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork Thank you for replying. I m using 1.5 Inch HDPE pipe. Drive pipe is 270 m from the spring to the position of Ramp with approx. 2-3 m of fall and i need to lift it to 4m up and 15m far. there is no back pressure. when i m pushing the waste valve with min. pressure of my figure and continue doing it, it is delivering upto 6-7 m. also tried what you have mentioned draining the water first and then opening the valve. sealed all the joints. Still not able to figure it out Now i'm thinking of replacing the tank with 2Kg or try putting a tube or bladder in it. or do i need to create more pressure by collecting that spring water in a PVC tank and then deliver it with more fall and pressure, so that there should be no air in the delivery pipe ??
@@sssshashank18 270 meters without a standpipe is TOO LONG. Max drive pipe length without a standpipe is 1000 x pipe diameter in inches: 1000 x 1.5 inches = 1500 inches or 125 feet. So you need a standpipe about 100 feet from the pump to dissipate the shock-wave. Here's an example: ruclips.net/video/mkRyyaNQZuo/видео.html So that is probably a big part of your problem. Also, in order for the pump to start, you need a certain amount of back pressure on the output. I find 10 psi is a good base pressure. So if you don't have the output valved, you should so you can hold pressure in the system to start the pump. Hope this helps. Keep asking.. We'll get you through it.
Thanks and I apologize, my camera skills are much improved and still always improving. Thanks for bearing with me! I have considered doing a version 2 of this with updates etc.
The Farmacy Seeds Network After watching your video you seem to know a few things about a ram pump. I recently built one and although it delivers 1gallon every 56 seconds. My swing valve cycles every 3.46 nothing close to the speed your operates. Without going into too much detail about my set up I thought maybe an email my do the trick. Just need some advice. Thanks for responding!
Congrats for your great video! I installed a 1" ram pump with the following specs: length of supply pipe 50 m, 2-3 m fall, material high density polyetilene. and it´s working, but it´s only giving me 20 psi of output pressure and I need to achieve at least 40 psi. What do you think I can do? insall a standpipe? increase the fall? change polyetilene to steel? to tighten it more? links: drive.google.com/open?id=1EihdLtyUm2E4yl3ui9bvXfItgn7ssU2Z drive.google.com/open?id=1LY2vCEZhpUYjsFe8cz2GnzaE6QY6MVjf thanks for your help! greetings from Colombia
Yes, I would install a standpipe and shorten the drive pipe length using the standpipe. I al;so would go to a much stiffer pipe type for your drive pipe.. steel is ideal and contains pressure best for efficiency gains. With 2-3 meters of fall.. 40 psi should be a walk in the park. Flexible pipe (especially HDPE) is very lossy for pressure pulses.. even an upgrade to PVC would achieve better results.. I recommend schedule 40 min or better yet schedule 80. See the Clemson.edu link above for better technical details: www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university Let me know if I can help more cheers!
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork Thanks for answering. So, how long does the drive pipe need to be? (i mean, how far from the ram pump should i install the standpipe). Another question: can the drive pipe be in 3/4" knowing that ram pump is built in 1"? Do i need to bury the supply and drive pipe?
I see the ram gives the stroke, but apparently it doesnt hold the pressure increase.. so i was wondering if it could be an issue with the delivery check valve Here is an uptade: drive.google.com/open?id=1nN6jcwLE8PS17skDhsU-_v5ATDhJXMzD You can see the pressure tries to raise, but it fells down...
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This is the first video of yours that I've watched, and hey! I think I've just found my new favorite RUclips channel!
AWESOME! Thank you so much!
Thank you for this video! I had watched a few videos on ram pumps, headed to the shop and put one together. I chose a 1 1/4 size drive pipe and pump body. I managed to get most of it right but it would not run. Your trouble shooting tips narrowed down what was wrong with mine. First off I used a line check for my check valve and after your advice I installed a pressure gauge. My reservoir was not holding pressure. I got all the leaks fixed, redid the check valve seat and you showed how to start this thing properly with the supply line full and the delivery line off. A few toggles of the waste valve and she took off at about 20 psi and pumped up to 40 psi. I actually had to add pipe to my delivery side to create enough back pressure to keep my ram running. It's currently pumping water with a gauge reading of around 18 psi. Looking forward to watching your design video. I need to improve performance. As it currently stands, it's pumping about 1/2 gallon a minute.
Excelent! Thanks for sharing! cheers!
Thank the stars for RUclipsrs such as yourself.
You take away so much of the hassle that can result from inexperienced ram pump peeps such as myself.
Thank you
thank you for the kind words... always so glad when I read a comment like this! :cheer:
Great job , I built 3 ram pumps with 2 1/4 " check valves but never tested , seeing your video , I will test them .Thanks .God bless
Thanks for watching! Let me know how you make out! That reminds me, I need to make a better and more updated version of this video.
This is the best video on ram pumps. Thank you so much for the web link. I'd love to see a how to build this ram pump. Great job, my man!
Thank you so much for the kind words! If I ever do a rebuild I might make a build video. I DO plant to do a site selection and calculation walk-through video at some point soon.
Blessings to you re your ram pump troubleshooting etc. Much appreciated cheers KC. I'm St Lucia Caribbean
Thanks for the kind comments! Glad I could help!
Nice job. There was lots of good information, i added a stand pipe the other week and it did help with my double clap. I might have to try different size flapper valves for the discharge side with your suggestion. Many more upgrades to come since it is fun to learn the challenges of the system as a whole. I will be adding filtration to my out pipe and try to use cyclone/gravity to remove some of the heavy particulate that is inevitable in a stream.
fantastic... glad to have helped you!
Yeah, the standpipe being 4 inches vs the supply pipe at 2 inches means 4 x the area of pipe traveled... this does 2 things hydraulically... it raises the effective pressure in the 4" standpipe which helps bring fast recovery after each pulse, and it also being 4 X slower travel, as well as up vertically, drops out particles. Yes, it is a lot of fun to experiment with and "build better" every time... at least theoretically... hehe.
Best Rampump vid on RUclips Thank you I finally fully understand
Thank you so much for the kind compliment! Glad to help!
Thank you man! Excellent
Cheers thank you!
Thank you. Great advice. I have trouble keeping mine on or getting over 10 pounds pressure. I put in a stand pipe probably too close to the pump and the cycles sped up really fast like several per second. Also very unstable only working for a minute at best. I removed the stand pipe and it cycles correctly but still not more than 10 pounds and not enough to get up the hill to my homestead. I wonder if a larger size check valve might help..
what size system are you running now? Can you describe your config? or better.. get a video? Here's the Clemson EDU link.. this is SPOT ON design information: www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university I am glad to help if I know enough info to provide advice. cheers! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your almost instant reply!. I will be up at the camp next week and see if I can get it going using your set up with stand pipe further up stream. Best wishes.
You're welcome! Sounds good... Looking forward to hear how you make out! cheers!
Awesome. Very helpful. I have a 3/4 inch pump with 7 ft of head, a 2 inch stand pipe fed by 200 ft supply line and 30 ft of 3/4 inch steel drive pipe. My brass swing valve is cycling 140 times a minute. Which seems a lot. Any thoughts on how to decrease that rate?
Yes, switch the swing valve for an inverted foot valve and add some weights to it. This will lengthen the time between when it opens and closes. There is a "sweet spot" you will have to find. Here's a video: ruclips.net/video/M-sdiGpWZC8/видео.html
Thanks for watching and the kind comments!
Best explanation. Thanks
Thanks for watching and the feedback!
I want to say thanks for a great video here. I think you covered all the bases.
Thanks for the kind words... glad to help!
Pressure vessel issues
Hi I built a ram pump about 5 years ago using 1" galvanised parts and its been working pretty well since then. Lately I have been using an 8 litre expansion vessel (as used on central heating systems) as the pressure tank. This has a rubber bladder inside it which can be inflated via an air valve in the top. It works fine for about a year or two but eventually the rubber bladder fails due to the pulsing action. I cant seem to be able to get replacement bladders, and the tank on its own soon becomes waterlogged. Any advice on an alternative tank? it has a 1" male screw fitting on the base.
Yes, Here's a link to the clemson EDU document on ram pumps, they recommend a 3 inch pvc pipe as a chamber with a bike tube inside it. Much cheaper and easier to replace. They recommend not using a threaded fitting on the end as it leaks... However I found that if you put some silicon sealant on the threads it will hold, and still unthread later for maintenance witha wrench or channel locks. www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university
Thank you for the step by step explanation video, but I can not get my ram pump to even work the first swing check valve. I have a 20 ft of head pipe, to the drive side of the pump with a screen at the end to keep the debris and other things from going into my pump.
I tried different spots and I also made a small dam and inserted my pipe inside the dam. (Which is only made from the rocks and boulders found in the river bed.)
My pump is made of 1-1/4" piping and the chamber is a 4" pvc, with a bicycle inner tube for the air pressure.
Also another thing I have river with alot of rushing water, I thought this would be perfect for this ram pump to be working because it would have plenty of water with pressure behind it. The elevation is not alot compare to what I see with others on these channels.
What could I be doing wrong?
I'm not sure... did you do the calculations to insure you have the right ratios? What is the elevation? Can you upload and share a video?
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork
I can upload a video on here. But maybe I can upload it through an email? empirepropertyinvestments1@yahoo.com is my email, if you email me then I can upload it to you.
I have a similar setup. Did you find out what was wrong?
well explained. how i wish mine worked as good.
Why the spring check vs a second swing check like I have seen in most pumps? What do you mean by impetus valve? Is that the first check valve/waste valve?
The spring check is the second valve. A spring check operates a little smoother for that particular function. Impetus valve is the primary valve (the waste valve) It is the valve that takes all the impeding energy (thus the impetus valve). The Swing Check valve is the impetus valve (the waste valve) although I have replaced that with a foot valve for much smoother operation and adjust-ability as well as wear life. ruclips.net/video/vrOgObZ0wos/видео.htmlHope I have answered your questions. cheers!
Hi :)
Thank you for your video, it has already been greatly helpful. But i am still stuck.
I have set up a 1'' ram pump with 2 meters of input head.
The pump is cycling as normal but no water is coming out of the delivery pipe. The delivery pipe had 5 meters of elevation.
If I closed the valve to the delivery pipe i was able to generate 28 PSI in the pump, and the pump would still operate with the valve closed.
I would slowly open the delivery valve and the pressure would drop until there was not adequate back pressure and the pump would stop.
Why was I unable to get water out the delivery pipe?
Any help is so greatly appreciated, I am at a loss.
Thank you :) :)
Sounds like maybe you're not lettin g enough water develop in the delivery pipe.... keep trying and give the delivery pipe time to fill... might be depleting the pump too fast still. Are you sure you haven't missed any details? Do you have a pressure tank leak? Even a very small pressue tank leak can kill a pump's operation. Also, maybe you should see my ram pump manual video. ruclips.net/video/rxqUkybsxYw/видео.html Either way, let me know how you're making out. oh, and you're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Good video
Can we stop / reduce water drain / loss at rampump?
Thanks! I'm not sure I understand your question, Please elaborate. Maybe this will help: ruclips.net/video/G1YoVNvzXGM/видео.html
excellent job my friend , i want to send water 200 meters away and 40 meters high from the pump , can it be possible with this ram pump ?
How much head pressure do you have to work with? 🤔
@@embretr.string5204 what do u mean '' head pressure '' ?
Thanks! You should see this video on site design: ruclips.net/video/rxqUkybsxYw/видео.html
Try to use a stainless steel swing valve as waste valve, it is much better than brass valve. You can compare, and also my ram pump design is the waste valve is on the forward part and the spring check valve is in vertical position, but I remove the spring because of sometime there is unusual heartbeat at waste valve and the pump is stop. Now my pump is more than a month continously working. By the way I use an 8 gallon capacity bladder tank at my ram pump.
Yeah.. stainless is on my eventual upgrade list... as well as steel drive pipe and few other upgrades. This is an old video.. I am now running a modified foot valve.. much smoother much better control. I'll have a look at your setup. cheers!
Great videos been watching for ours and tried making one as you described I have 4’ drop to pump with 1.25 drive line and valves over a 42’ span and valves to .75 outlet line with 20’ of head. I can build 40psi in tank it only by manually pressing valve, the check valve just won’t rigger itself on/off any suggestions would be great thanks
Hey Thanks! Hmm.. Any chance you can share a video so I can get a better idea of what you are working with? Is your outlet side AT LEAST 23 ft above the pump? Also, maybe my "Ram Pump The Manual" video will help? ruclips.net/video/rxqUkybsxYw/видео.html
Also, have you looked at the Clemson link I shared in the description of this video? Here's a link: www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork I went through the Clemson and it mentions not to use the spring valve, I think I have everything correct except the waste valve so I will replace that tomorrow, Thank you and I will send a video of it up and running :)
@@davidlemesurier6329 Fantastic! let me know if you have anymore questions. cheers!
The Farmacy Seeds Network got it thank you, it was the spring waste valve, worked instantly once I changed it :)
Ok. First, I thank you for response! Here goes, I’m trying to run my ram pump from an irrigation ditch which is probably not idea for my drive pipe. It has a slight curve to it. I built a 1 1/2 ram pump with 110 ft of 11/2 drive pipe, with a 4”x32”pressure tank filled with a 3”x28” pool noodle. From the top of the drive pipe to the end of the pump I only have 2.71 ft of head pressure. Cycle time and GPM were in previous comment. Am expecting too much?
ok... I think you might be expecting too much. What elevation are you pumping to? What size delivery line do you have to that elevation? 2.71 ft of head isnt much. Another thing, cycles per second will vary greatly especially with drive pipe megth... I would expect a much longer cycle time on 110ft of drive pipe. Mine drive pipe is only 34 feet. What are you using for a valve? Have you seen any of my latest videos on calculations, valve size, weight adjustments? They all have some good pointers / additional info. I hope this helps answer some of your questions. Let me know if I can help more.
The Farmacy Seeds Network Pumping to an elevation of 10 feet and delivery line is 3/4. Also using a 1 1/2 brass swing check valve and a 1/2 lb spring check valve. I thought maybe with a more rapid cycle on the swing check valve either there would be a increase in volume or pressure. Since I’m getting the volume that I am I guess this pump is a success! Thank you for taking the time to respond!
Oh ok... Yes, I can see why you are thinking what you are... Yes... I'd recommend changing to a 1.5 inch yellow brass foot valve as the impetus valve... A couple helpful vids:ruclips.net/video/grBdwsrsOA8h/видео.htmlttps://ruclips.net/video/M-g2kpysKYoh/видео.htmlttps://ruclips.net/video/vrOgObZ0wos/видео.html
this would allow a LOT of adjust-ability in valve speed.... at that low pumping height I'd expect more volume delivery... I find there is a "sweet spot" on cycles per second... hard to define thus far... but here is my assessment:ruclips.net/video/KXdtPaMTPDI/видео.html
I think either way... pumping water for free after the install cost... is a success... :) My pump is saving my ass through this dry spell on the farm! Let me know if I can help anymore and thanks for supporting the TFSN youtube channel!
btw... if you haven't had a read through this... it is GOLD: www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university
Thumbs up to you sir
Thanks!
Great public service!
Thanks!
I think..? I may have found some answers. Just bought a new pvc half inch ram pump, and we are noobs, so we couldn't get the thing to work. My little creek has very little drop, or head, or fall... I think I may have a foot or two? It behaved different when I hooked up garden hose as my drive pipe, and then when I hooked up 1/2 inch poly pipe. Now hubs has some crazy contraption made of 2 five gallon buckets laid sideways in the creek, connected to two 1 inch pvc pipes about 9 feet or so long, hooked to a T that goes into the half inch poly pipe, right after a 15 ft tall stand pipe, also one inch. The 1/2 inch poly is 100 ft from stand pipe to ram pump. We are still not gettin' much. Have been tryin' to get the thing running for 4 days. The water trickles out the top of the first check valve with the flapper that shuts. But it won't activate that flapper. We even turned it sidewways, spent time getting all the air out, siphoned. I left the line not hooked up to the pump and water is coming out of it. The only thing I can think is that we have the drive line too long from stand pipe to pump, and the long part should be on the collection end to stand pipe. Which means we will have to invest in a long section of larger diameter pipe to lay down, which is out of budget at this time. The other stuff we had laying around, but is straight. We have a bendy creek that meanders a lot with little drop. We have yet to hear even one "thunk". Sad...
I liked and subscribed. Have been uploading kind of long... videos of the progress on this ram pump as best I can. Hard to work and film at the same time, in water, with a phone. lol Fell on my butt once in the creek and almost wiped out both my phones. Missed it by like an inch. lol
Sorry to hear of your frustration. I am working on a new design and site selection video. Should be out in a week or less. Should help you sort through your issues. Yeah, filming and working is tough... then there's hours of editing! :)
Very useful video! Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words!
So sir you mean like I need to change the angle of the piping into 45 degrees?
yes... make the angle the water is traveling before entering the valve much less than 90 degrees... please check the manual I shared the link too... it really explains the ram pump theory very well. you want approximately a 1/4 slope... 4 feet over for every 1 foot drop (or meters or whatever increment fits). My pump has approximately 7 feet of drop it's 35 feet of pipe over that 7 feet of drop... so mine has a 1 to 5 ratio or 1/5. There is a minimum and maximum drive pipe length based on the diameter of the pipe. My calcs for my pump (1.5 inch) were between 34 feet and 117 feet for drive pipe length.... so that's a ratio range of approx 1/5 to 1/16. the longer it is... the more weight in water that is acting as a continuous hydraulic piston ... so the cycle will be slower. As a general rule the slower the cycle, the more efficient the pump will become. This is due to the higher water velocity which imparts more hydraulic pressure on the spring valve which, in turn , drives more water into the pressure chamber's "resistance". I hope this helps.
nice setup bro new subbie here!
Thanks! and thanks for subbing! cheers! welcome!
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork Yay!
Is 1 1/2 drive to big for à 1/2 ram pump system?
Our start but stop few hours after...
Technically yes... but if it starts and runs.. it should keep cycling unless there is an issue. My 1.5 inch ram would run any valve size between 1.5 and .5 inches but with greatly depreciated water production on the valves other than 1.5 inches. If it stops a few hours afterward, you might have a leak in your pressure chamber or a water supply issue. What kind of valve are you using for the primary valve (impetus valve)?
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork seems the pressure in the pump wasnt great enough
Your vidéo already answer my issue.. 😄
Tks a lot!!
How about if there is no bladder or bicycle tube in pressure tank. My ram pump the pressure tank is empty frion and dont have the room to put a bicycle tube.
It will work ok.. but be sure to keep an eye on it.. if the output starts "surging".. you'll need to drain it and let air back into the pressure tank. The problem is, with no bladder, over time the air dissolves into the water and eventually you have no "buffer" for the pressure surges. This can tear apart the pump and plumbing. But it should work ok as long as you keep an eye on it.
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork thank you for a reply, in a single 1" ram pump, I install 3 1" plus 3/4" waste valve, the delivery(garden hose) 1/2 270 meter and approx 35 meter from the source, from the source of water to the ram pump is approximately 7 meters vertical and very good volume of water. With this system, I got a very good result. Started with a single waste valve, it doest not work with that distance and vertical height.
use the clemson.edu link in your design.. there are length and width and vertical fall parameters to stay within. www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-universityWhy are you using 3 1" waste valves? you only need one waste valve.. and one check valve.
Would a reducer b4 the pressure chamber b efficient or after or is it nessasary or helpful?
N would that water exaust work the same underwater with the right hight
no reducer is needed. remember hydraulic pressure is distributed equally across all structures within the system. a reducer is not necessary nor beneficial.
The Farmacy Seeds Network thanks im sure u saved me a ton of time
Glad to help! Yes, I have spent many hours "playing" with my ram ... I can't even go down there without being mesmerized by the pump.. :)
Thanks for the great video. I know this is a pretty old video. I hope you still monitor questions. I have plenty of water and fall. No leaks. My swing check valve slams pretty hard when you get the inlet pipe full. But it will not release. I operate the valve by hand for 10 minutes, enough that the pressure chamber should build pressure with the discharge ball valve off. Slams shut hard every time but will not release by itself. Help !!🤣😂
Sounds like maybe you don't have enough air in the pressure chamber.. are you POSITIVE there are no leaks? You need that "air cushion" for the valve to bounce back off of. Let me know and we'll continue diagnostics.
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork yes, positive no leaks. I'll increase my chamber size when I can. Thank you so much for the response!
awesome video thank you so much sir
Thank you!
Great info
How i calculate correct pressure tank size?
In the description is a link to an article for that. Also, extra info regarding ram pumps for design: ruclips.net/video/rxqUkybsxYw/видео.html
very informative
glad you liked it!
thank you very much
thank you... and you're very welcome!
Sirrr please help me
I built my own ram pump, the swing valves are cycling, my problem is that I cant pumo water into the 3rd floor building what problems do I have.
I need more info than this... Can you provide some more detail? What is the head height? volume? size of piping?
Would you mind watching the ram pump videos?
Height of head is about 1 meter and piping size is 1/2 inch
Watch my channel I uploaded videos so that its easier for you to determine the problem please help meee 😕😕😕
Also I tried fully opening the 2nd gate valve still the water cant go up
You need to locate and buy a Audell's plumbing book. #1 It is best to have the drive pipe steel. Even better to have the steel pipe incased in concrete. You do not want the shock absorbed by a flex in the drive line. That takes away from its effectiveness. If the check valve is spring loaded, you won't have the trouble with priming it. You're using a stand pipe at the top of the drive line instead of a barrel at the top. It is critical that there's one foot of water standing in that stand pipe. Why? Because you don't want the shock absorbed through lack of weight. That's why you hear the thump sound in the stand pipe. That also takes away its effectiveness.The shock is able to push up against the water. again losing shock. You want shock! It is not .433. It is .434 So. 28 psi is equal to a feed line height of about 20 feet. Increasing the pressure doesn't increase volume. That's determined by the size of the delivery pipe. I had a $1800 Rife. When it was working it made that 1 1/2" galvanized pipe ring! You are better off running from the spring in to a barrel with the spring water dumping into the top of the barrel and the drive line coming off the bottom. You need a needle valve below the pressure tank check valve. This pulls air into the pressure tank and prevents a water log. It also opens the impulse valve.Nature abhors a vacuum.Bulk head fittings are cheap. But don't listen to a plumber with 41 years of experience. Go to the Rife web site.
Yes I don't know if it's in this video, but I have definitely mentioned upgrading to steel pipe and concrete immersed mounts... it will definitely increase the efficiency! My standpipe has at least 1 foot of water overhead now, so I am all over it. Good advice and thanks for the good comments!
If it was me. I know I'm not there, but. I'd have a container of some sort(A plastic 55 gallon drum) where you have your standpipe. That is your reservoir. Thats assuming you can get your spring water to dump into the top of that reservoir. Bulkhead fittings are very inexpensive. That's what you would use for the outlet at the bottom.(the inlet also) They have a female iron pipe thread on both sides. Strainer that can be unthreaded for cleaning on the inside. As few offsets as possible in the drive pipe. You can get the angles close enough with a simple protractor. One angle at each end. Take the pipe to a welding shop and have them heat and bend the ends a reasonable distance from the threads. From level to slope angle and back to level. You want the barrel and pump level. Bolt the pump down! Bolt everything down. Pile heavy rocks around the pipe. Make it so it doesn't flex. When it rings in operation, you've done well.That's why, if you can, you put a barrel in. You want the tremendous weight of that column of water to counteract the drive line water shock back up the line There's a hydraulic shock that you do not want absorbed by anything. I didn't see, but aspirating the pressure tank is easy, peasy. A small hole drilled and tapped just below the check valve to the pressure tank will pull a small amount of air in as the vacuum is eliminated. A needle screw will work. Nature abhors a vacuum. When the water goes into the pressure tank, it creates a vacuum behind that valve. That's what pulls open the impulse valve. The drive line distance should be five times the head. There's only one reason to increase the size of the delivery line. To increase volume. Not height. The resistance is reduced when the size is increased. It would be nice if you could adjust the impullse valve travel. This helps in setting the GPM . Water should burst out of the impulse valve when it closes. I saw a You Tube video that was pretty good. I'll see if I can find it. You'll be amazed how well they work.
sounds good... I'll look forward to the link... and yes I understand pipe size vs volume and resistance.. 3/4 was all I could swing on my puny budget... 800 feet adds up quick in price/ft...
def check some of my newer videos... you will see upgrades in the direction of what you are saying. You're advice is nonetheless appreciated! cheers!
Great video. thanks
Thank you for the compliment! cheers!
Hello very nice video. how do you size the pressure chamber? and what is the purpose of the tennis balls in the pressure chamber?
Thank you! See the clemson edu link in the description for pressure chamber sizing. The tennis balls are effectively "air balls"... they absorb the hydraulic shock that would otherwise occur on the piping... and also provide the delay or buffer for the water pressure to be released into the deliver line while the pump runs the next cycle. you can use all sorts of things.. a bike tire tube, pool noodle, anything with air in it.
www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university
Can you Tell me the material Name, please
I'm not sure which material you are referring to? Can you be more specific?
What is the purpose of stand pipe
keeps a consistent volume of water available to the pump as well as allowing the shock-wave to dissipate... effectively changes the tuning of the ram. the longer the drive pipe, the longer the stroke, you reach a point where it becomes impractical physically. The standpipe removes that issue. My pump would be VERY slow and not work very well without a standpipe.
Hi , the issue with my RAM pump is that the inlet check valve remains closed , however I am able to get significant pressure at the output and I am able to pump up water upto 25 feet . Is that normal . Does the value cycling stop if the line is completely air free . Plz advice .
I'm not sure if you mean the impetus valve on the drive pipe side or the valve going into the pressure chamber. If the pressure chamber is air free, it will likely stop or even run for a bit but it is very hard on the fittings and plumbing. Hope this helps.
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork
Thank you for your prompt response . I was referring to the impetus valve … the pump is able to send water up 30 feet without evening the cycling action .. I am not able to figure out the reason as to y. Also I am getting an output of 5 gallons per min at around 20 psi on the output side . Kindly advise .
How do I connect with you directly . Plz advice
contact me via my email.. go to this link, then scroll down to get my email: ruclips.net/user/TheFarmacySeedsNetworkabout
Sorry for the delay, didn't see these last two comments.
Thanks 🌊
You're welcome!
Great job man🙏how to build this one?
Thanks! I just released a video on designing a ram pump today actually: ruclips.net/video/rxqUkybsxYw/видео.html
My ram pumps run at 2ft fall on drive pipe.
very nice.. I suspect mine would as well.. I've just never tested it as the goal is always more water.. :)
I suspect you could even coax operation out of it with 1 foot or even 8 inches of head... just wouldn't deliver a lot of water... but depending on your application, it might be enough.
I hope I can get it to work waste valve stays open won’t close
You have it in the right way? It should be backwards from normal check valve operation. Do you have enough water volume?
The Farmacy Seeds Network I double checked and yes it’s installed correctly. I can link a video of it later but I got it running but it only works with the waste valve on its side at about 45° angle. I also didn’t glue any of the pvc drive pipe which I figured it would be sucking air in and causing that. My ram pump specs are:
3/4 drive and 3/4 ram pump with garden hose delivery Pipe.
42 foot drive pipe, 3/4
About 2 foot drop maybe more
A 17 inch pressure chamber, 3 inch pvc with bike tube inside
For test purposes I got just a garden hose propped in the air on a shovel so about 3 foot rise. Water flow is pretty low but I’m just irrigation garden so I don’t need much.
If you have any advice that would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, Cody
ok... I definitely would glue up.. also.. garden hose is way to flexible for good efficiency.. you want a good hard drive pipe like SCH 40 pvc or better. 2 ft of drop is definitely on the low end. You REALLY have to tweak it well to get it delivering much water on that little bit of drop. Def link the video. I'll check it out.
The Farmacy Seeds Network I got the video link here:
ruclips.net/video/pIbhvju4juA/видео.html
I’d say it will pump 15 gallons after about 1-2 hours so efficient it is non existent... do you think 42 foot drive pipe is good with a 2-3 foot drop? Or should I shorten or lengthen it? Thanks again for the advice!
Have u sale these type ramp pumps?? I need... From Pakistan Peshawar.. but I live in Dubai
No I'm sorry I don't... That's part of the idea... you can build your own!If you are looking to buy one, talk to the guy who runs this channel: ruclips.net/video/e0HSMtpb53U/видео.html and tell him I sent you.
Do you mn ake them for sale?I really need one
No I don't make them for sale. My videos are for those that want to make their own. If you want to buy one, maybe go over to Land to House's channel on youtube. He sells pumps and has numerous videos also. Tell him I sent you!
24:45 с таким потоком воды можно электрогенератор поставить и не заморачиваться 👍
I'm sorry I don't speak Russian.. but Thanks!
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork
24:45 with such a flow of water, you can put an electric generator and not bother 👍
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork
ruclips.net/video/leEecZ039E8/видео.html
600wt v has
i have designed a hydram but its not working, fall is 3m and the pressure is pretty good enough but still the waste valve is getting stuck and not playing even for a single time. its frustrating. Do we need to put a bladder inside the tank and do we need to pump air into the tank on a regular interval?
I'm doing this project to supply water from a spring in a remote tribal village. I need your help. please reply
drive.google.com/file/d/1-2YmjGghHlKsa9EB2oXdo2d6HZBc9nwk/view
I think I can help yes.. Glad to try... How long is your drive pipe? what is it's diameter?Yes, the air tank needs to have air.. but you dont need to pressurisize it in. You can just drain the whole tank of water.. then turn on supply and prime / start the pump. If the valve is sticking it might be a couple different things. If your drive pipe is too long or short, that could cause interference waves that could stick the valve. Usually if my valve iss ticking there is air in the drive pipe with prevents good water hammer because it "eats up" a good chucnk of the shockwave and then the valve cant "bounce" back off it's seat for the next cycle. I need a little more info but am glad to help you through this. Let me know what other info you can and I will try n help you work through it.
Also.. Have you gone over this info here: www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university It is EXCELLENT for designing a ram pump. Also is your output side under at least 10 PSI?
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork Thank you for replying.
I m using 1.5 Inch HDPE pipe. Drive pipe is 270 m from the spring to the position of Ramp with approx. 2-3 m of fall and i need to lift it to 4m up and 15m far.
there is no back pressure. when i m pushing the waste valve with min. pressure of my figure and continue doing it, it is delivering upto 6-7 m.
also tried what you have mentioned draining the water first and then opening the valve. sealed all the joints. Still not able to figure it out
Now i'm thinking of replacing the tank with 2Kg or try putting a tube or bladder in it.
or do i need to create more pressure by collecting that spring water in a PVC tank and then deliver it with more fall and pressure, so that there should be no air in the delivery pipe ??
@@sssshashank18 270 meters without a standpipe is TOO LONG. Max drive pipe length without a standpipe is 1000 x pipe diameter in inches: 1000 x 1.5 inches = 1500 inches or 125 feet. So you need a standpipe about 100 feet from the pump to dissipate the shock-wave. Here's an example: ruclips.net/video/mkRyyaNQZuo/видео.html So that is probably a big part of your problem. Also, in order for the pump to start, you need a certain amount of back pressure on the output. I find 10 psi is a good base pressure. So if you don't have the output valved, you should so you can hold pressure in the system to start the pump. Hope this helps. Keep asking.. We'll get you through it.
good info but had great difficulty hearing you sometimes
Thanks and I apologize, my camera skills are much improved and still always improving. Thanks for bearing with me! I have considered doing a version 2 of this with updates etc.
Is it possible to contact you by phone or email?
For what reason?
The Farmacy Seeds Network
After watching your video you seem to know a few things about a ram pump. I recently built one and although it delivers 1gallon every 56 seconds. My swing valve cycles every 3.46 nothing close to the speed your operates. Without going into too much detail about my set up I thought maybe an email my do the trick. Just need some advice. Thanks for responding!
If we do it right here, everyone can learn... What is your question?
Congrats for your great video!
I installed a 1" ram pump with the following specs: length of supply pipe 50 m, 2-3 m fall, material high density polyetilene.
and it´s working, but it´s only giving me 20 psi of output pressure and I need to achieve at least 40 psi.
What do you think I can do? insall a standpipe? increase the fall? change polyetilene to steel? to tighten it more?
links: drive.google.com/open?id=1EihdLtyUm2E4yl3ui9bvXfItgn7ssU2Z
drive.google.com/open?id=1LY2vCEZhpUYjsFe8cz2GnzaE6QY6MVjf
thanks for your help! greetings from Colombia
Yes, I would install a standpipe and shorten the drive pipe length using the standpipe. I al;so would go to a much stiffer pipe type for your drive pipe.. steel is ideal and contains pressure best for efficiency gains. With 2-3 meters of fall.. 40 psi should be a walk in the park. Flexible pipe (especially HDPE) is very lossy for pressure pulses.. even an upgrade to PVC would achieve better results.. I recommend schedule 40 min or better yet schedule 80. See the Clemson.edu link above for better technical details: www.slideshare.net/Fatin62c/homemade-hydraulic-ram-pump-clemson-university Let me know if I can help more
cheers!
@@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork Thanks for answering. So, how long does the drive pipe need to be? (i mean, how far from the ram pump should i install the standpipe).
Another question: can the drive pipe be in 3/4" knowing that ram pump is built in 1"?
Do i need to bury the supply and drive pipe?
I see the ram gives the stroke, but apparently it doesnt hold the pressure increase.. so i was wondering if it could be an issue with the delivery check valve
Here is an uptade: drive.google.com/open?id=1nN6jcwLE8PS17skDhsU-_v5ATDhJXMzD
You can see the pressure tries to raise, but it fells down...
reminds me of M*A*S*H
Haha! That was a good old series!
No good example of anything
Glad to help! :)