Hi Paul Yeh mate was one of those that bought the printer, made a few things for the printer itself with downloaded code and then parked it up for 3 years. You have given me a new lease of life with your lessons and finally designing my own gear. Thanks mate Cheers Mick
Thanks Muchly. I'm a novice with Fusion, your slow steady approach is much appreciated. Too many other tutorials, as you say, go too fast to follow. And your emphasis on workflow got through to me. For example, I never noticed the Sketch Lock symbol on the Browser and none of the other Tuts I have watched have ever mentioned it... I am a very experienced Sketchup Pro user. (20 years since V5). But as you explained so well, Fusion ain't PowerPoint, (or Sketchup :). A huge 'Aha' moment for me was you mentioning that after an Extrude, for example, the Sketch disappears. This has had me stumped and stalled for 2 months. Subscribed.
Thanks Paul. This is for everyone... if you are not using Octoprint or similar, you can save a lot of time not moving a SD card around all the time. I run it on an old Raspberry Pi B+ (I think... circa 2013) and you connect with your browser. Drag & drop gcode. Also, I just started using glue sticks on the print bed - a glass plate on my Ender 3, and it has worked wonderfully. Just any cheap glue stick from ol Walton's store - looks like a big chapstick. Mine is branded pen+ Gear. Solved my adhesion issues.
Thank you very very much! Assignment is completed, have done some simple designs, but it is so cool and satisfying! Looking forward to the next lessons!
The emphasis you put on getting started each time reminds me of the work I used to do using a GC. Everyday I would start with an hour or so getting the system just right before starting work. I always got excellent and reliable results, day after day, week after week. I am sure other people thought I was nuts, but the proof was in the pudding! Same with all of the other analytical work I did with a wide range of instruments. Not only did I get excellent reliability, but the equipment lasted longer as well. I can really relate to your checking and adjusting every time!
Hi Paul, Just a couple of suggestions. First, you can produce the stl file in F360 by using "Save Mesh" by right clicking on the object or body in the list on the left side of the screen. This is the Autodesk recommended workflow. Second, Autodesk recommends roughly creating the drawing primitive (point, line, circle, rectangle etc.) and then using dimensions and/or constraints to fully constrain it. This will prevent running into problems aligning parts etc. Cheers, Steve
Great lesson Paul! For me it was a great refresher on Fusion 360 because I haven’t used it in awhile and a great introduction to Cura. I don’t have a printer yet but I will be practicing creating a thing and slicing it. I don’t have my hobby room ready for the printer yet. It’s summer here in beautiful Lockport New York so I’ve been outside enjoying our awesome weather. Our summers are very short so we make the best of them.
Great work Paul. I just want to confirm if you have set the z offset for your printer. Also for your issue regarding the print peeling off you should try magnetic rough buildplate
Great lesson! it's so cool how we are starting small with a 'cup' like thing then we're making gears in the next couple lessons! You can teach so much so fast!!
Thanks Paul. Another great lesson. I purchased an Ender 3V2 last year and wish I would have followed you lessons instead of figuring all of it out on my own. I'm looking forward to see where you go with this class. I do recommend installing a Raspberry pi and ruining OctoPrint.
My kids have just started your Arduino course and I am doing your Fusion course as we speak. Many thanks for producing all this quality content. Keep up the great work
Thanks Paul! Initially I struggled with the SW downloads but your explanation is clear and while not having the printer I am able to use the simulator. The library has a printer and will be visiting.
My prints are coming out awesome! I changed the design of the cup. Instead of a cup I made a cylinder with a center post. I also put some notches around the circumference at 120 degrees. I’m gonna install this into a coupling mounted on a stepper motor to check my rotation. I need to turn exactly 120 degrees.
I agree rafts are obsolete anymore BUT I do find a use for the brim from time to time. Mostly when printing tall skinny objects a brim can REALLY help with adhesion
Key board shortcuts are a must, much quicker than trolling tru menus. Also is worth the effort to set up Cura with fusion under utilities. Then you can just select the body you want to print and it automatically opens Cura. New users struggle with bed level due to the moderate learning curve. Although learning the basics is a must, installing an auto bed level such as creality CR touch are very beneficial, reduce frustration and much quicker print time. You also dont have to level the bed before every print.
I dont disagree with what you are saying, but what I am trying to do here is take a person who has never used a 3D printer and never designed in Fusion, and get them to the point of a first successful design-print workflow success. Early success is key to inspiring students to stay with a topic. Over time, we will work on all the more advanced topics, and will be doing upgrades to the printer over time.
@@paulmcwhorter you are the only Teacher i like, because you are the only One which also cares about the joy of the students. It is realy fun to learn things from you and you inspires me to get starter with all of this (: Thank you very much
I am very excited to learn fusion 360, it's very interesting to learn as I'm familiar with (sketchup) I have not yet got the printer, but I have a local Library that has a printer and I'm going to go visit them,
Great first practical tutorial - i had problems with the print quaility being too fine - it wouldn't stick to the bed and had to reduce it to Dynamic - i will keep trying!
@@paulmcwhorter You hearted my request for a gearbox in a previous video - gonna watch this whole series a few times till I finally get the hang of f360 till I have a working gearbox!
Just started using my Ender 3 V2 as a noob to 3D printing. Was having issues printing this design. Fortunately have watched all published lessons to date (11/22/22) so implemented Lesson 22 and voila, issues solved. My bed had a convex rather than concave profile.
As I mentioned previously, the Bambu Lab X1C is not a printer that is yet supported by Cura. I am therefore, using Bambu Studio Orca Slicer instead. My first print took 10 min and came out nicely. Suggestion: In the future, please change your cursor to Black, and make it a bit larger, to enable us to see it move around the screen better. Also, when you do move around and click on something, please describe what you are clicking on. This is more important with a tiny while cursor and will hopefully be less important if you change to a larger black cursor. Thank you...
Paul, glad to see the new F-360 series. Somehow, I've not been getting notified of your videos but is happening with other channels. I think YT is putting their thumb on the scale by unclicking the notification bell! Anyway, you make a lot of good points especially about safety as I've came back to my 3D-printer only to see some horrifying malfunctions!. Suggestion: I have placed a dedicated smoke/fire detector mounted to the very top cross-arm of my 3D printer, so if anything goes wrong I get an advanced alert. I was able to use some really sticky double-sided tape so I could mount it in the correct up/down configuration. I DO-NOT recommend that you ever leave your house with a 3D-printer running; too often I've had failures of one sort or another and was glad I was around. I understand that sometimes you need to let them go overnight and that is why I put the smoke-detector right above mine. It doesn't happen often but any micro-computer can glitch/crash and do something like leave the bed or nozzle heater stuck on. Also, the solid-state relays can short out and do the same thing. So, please take Paul's warnings seriously!
I have noticed the last few months that my channel is losing momentum, like youtube no longer wants to send people my way. I do indeed think they tweak the scales to promote certain world views and politics.
When I built my printer it was clear that there was a lot of up and down slop in the right hand end of the X-axis gantry. Only one of the 3 support rollers was actually in contact with the vertical pillar. This meant that the X gantry wasn't level and the up and down slop was obviously going to cause problems when moving the print head around manually to do the levelling. I watched a couple of videos on X gantry levelling and then set my printer up so that the X-axis was level and all the rollers were in contact. Bed levelling then worked fine for me (I did it with the bed hot which adds a bit of extra excitement to the process). My test print went really well with excellent bed adhension. Out of the box, its a lottery as to how horizontal the x-axis will be on any particular printer due to manufacturing and assembly tollerances. Paul was clearly lucky with his printer, but I would suggest that anyone having bed levelling issues checks how level their x-axis is and how much vertical slop there is at the right hand end. Get that sorted and you will have a good basis to work from.
Life with a 3D printer is a life of constant tweaking, upgrading, adjusting and fussing, just trying to get that perfect first level. Yes, getting the X gantry level is very important. The more perfect you get the X gantry, the easier it will be to level the bed.
I thought that infill didn't matter that much either until I wanted to print different things and speed started to be a concern. Gyroid is fast grid is strong and there are actually settings in infill that will speed things up considerably other than infill amount.
I am having a lot of trouble with my Ender 3 v2. Bed levelling and adhesion are very inexact science. My version of the cup has voids in the sides looking from the top, is not round and has blobs on the inside and outside walls. My first dog print was great, except that the rear half of the skirt was missing. Since then it has been downhill for me. I have watched hours of RUclips videos and tried to learn from them. Anything Paul can tell us about troubleshooting problems will be invaluable for learning this art of 3D printing. By the way, the yellow cursor helps a lot to follow the videos.
In these lessons we will be covering how to tweak the printer in future videos. For now, try to get the bed as level as you can. If you can not get it perfect in all areas of your bed, at least try to get it as good as possible in the region of the bed your print will be. Look under the print bed, and see if the springs above the adjustment knobs are roughly equally extended. That is to say, on one side if they are very compressed and the other side they are extended, that means your X-gantry is not level, and your X-gantry needs to be aligned. I will show that in future videos, but for now look on youtube for a video on how to level the X gantry on the Creality Ender. When your printer is aligned properly bed leveling should just be a final tweak. Also, the key is dont give up. All printers can be made to work, but they have to be adjusted and fine tuned.
Dave, yes I realized that after I made the video. Prior to filming, I had been playing with offset sketch planes, and then when I started making the video, I realized I was still in 3D sketch mode. I hope it did not confuse people.
IMO to be deliberate about dimension, you should type mm after the number. Fusion does not care what the default unit is, as long as you specify what you want.
Also for a faster export… if you Right-click on your Body, then left click choose “Save as Mesh” (used to be called “Save as STL”). It exports without saving to the Cloud. You can also launch straight into Cura and automatically load your STL if so desired.
Problems I am having are project is peeling off and the corners are rolling up on the bottom. I was using the slicer that came with my ender 3 but I have installed Cura so hoping I can fix some of my issues, also mine was set to print a raft so I will change the setting. Thanks for taking the time to create these lessons Paul.
OK, first, do the print just like I did it in the video. Make sure your bed is properly leveled. If you are having trouble leveling the bed, you might have to adjust the X axis Gantry, lots of videos on youtube on how to do that. Life with a 3D printer is a constant struggle to get prints to adhere to the bed.
I noticed you had '3D Sketch' checked in Fusion 360 Sketch Palette which is why you started with a 3D view of your sketch and a more complicated move tool. I do not know how to reset the Default on this though, it seems to remember these palette settings through new design or even a program restart, but it is not impacted by a preferences reset. Maybe someone knows how to get the UI back completely to a default state? However in preferences, Design for your account you can uncheck 'Auto hide sketch on feature creation' to address your other complaint about unwanted 'helpful' behavior!
As much as I love your tutorials (Arduino on down through the years) I am disappointed that I cannot continue with using Ultimaker without having a 3D printer. I was hoping to learn how to use Fusion with you before buying a printer.
I'm struggling with getting a proper export from Cura. The Makerbot Replicator extensions don't work as documented, and while I see a lot of complaining on the forums, I don't see a lot of solutions. Thankfully, Makerbot Desktop is still available and allows me to tweak most of the same tweakables as Cura. Hopefully as this course progresses, I'll be able to make Cura work properly for my printer.
I got scalped. They dont know how to cut old white man hair here. The guys spent two hours on the haircut trying to figure it out, and it just kept getting shorter.
Have I got this right? I am using an XYZ da Vinci Mini computer. It has a slicing process built into the printer. So I assume I have no need to download the Cura software package? Is that correct? Thanks for the effort you put into these videos.
I had my printer 5 days and already it came up with a dark blue screen. I couldn’t do anything with the printer. Not sure what happened; but, I’m guessing that I was not careful enough about when to remove the SD card. After doing much research on the internet I came up with a plan of how to fix the blue screen problem. I had to flash the main board with a file downloaded from the Creality website. I got the printer working again and now I’m a happily printing 3D again.
WOW, great to hear you worked through it. 3D printers are definitely not good as a first project type of thing. You need to have good troubleshooting skills, as you have demonstrated. 3D printers require lots of TLC to keep them working.
There's 2 options for printing multi color, the first and least expensive is to look for PLA that offers 2 or more of the color you want or and this is probably the most technical is to install a dual extruder, however I would probably advise caution if you're new to 3D printing. but, there are some really good PLA's available especially if you want to have something with multiple colors without having to constantly change the PLA everytime.
Paul, everything is working great here. There seems a residue left on the build plate. How would I go about cleaning it to its original condition? Bob from Lancaster, Pa.
There's a number of alternatives to this. You can either use a surgical spirit to clean the build plate or some Isopropyonal cleaning fluid should help to clear any residue from the plate.
BED NOT LEVEL. 🛌 For those of you with issues of a depression in the middle of the bed: Remove the build plate (glass). Cut out ✂️ several squares of paper around 50mm to 70mm. Place these squares of paper under the build plate in the center. You may also require 4 bulldog clips to hold the corners of the plate down. Then re-level the bed and see that the problem is solved. 🙂👍
first print of the dog worked like a charm, but i'm having a lot of trouble getting a second print to stick. there's a visible circle in the middle of the plate where the dog was and it seems like the PLA doesn't want to adhere to anywhere that the dog was touching the print bed? i can't see or feel any actual material there, a google search says to clean using isopropyl alcohol and scraping off any old bits, but there's not really anything to scrape. i tried it anyway, no luck. i am pretty confident i'm leveling the bed well, all four corners and the middle have feel a little grippy on the paper. i've tried to start a second print three times so far with the same results each time, basically just end up with a string of filament following the nozzle around, not attaching to the bed at all, and ends up in a knot after going in a few circles trying to do the skirt and i cancel it. have also checked/adjusted bed leveling and tried cleaning it again between attempts. the visible circle where the dog printed remains. thinking about going to buy some hairspray tomorrow just to try it 😅
ok well i tried hairspray which still didn’t help. i went through a ton of videos/articles about to to best clean the printing plate, tried a bunch and still no dice. found one that mentioned doing a deep clean with hot water and soap in the sink, so i tried that, and now it’s working! or at least first layer actually stuck and is holding its shape as the extruded moves around, 🤞🤞for the rest!
People argue about this. I dont heat the bed, because if I heat things up, then the filament starts oozing out the nozzle, and makes it harder for me to measure the gap with the paper. Some people argue the other way, as you suggest.
I just saw the course this GREAT! I Tried the original course and Autodesk stopped my trial,I have no clue why? I have been using tinkercad. I am back on Fusion 360 and downloaded cura. Cura works very differently on my “tinkertoy of 3D printers. I am considering the ender, it the auto level with the few dollars more?
Start with the basic printer I link to in the description. Then over time in these lessons I will be showing upgrades to the printer. I am not sure auto bed level would be the first upgrade I would buy.
There is a very large user base around Cura, and it is simple to start, but allows lots of customization. It is just the slice I am familiar with and that I prefer.
At 22:21 I seem to be unable to select the inner circle. After extruding the outer circle, the inner one is unable to be selected. Anyone else experiencing this? Any suggestions? Thanks. Further review resolved this. Please disregard.
Hi Paul, thanks for the lesson. I was able to follow along really well, and create the "cup". I came across 2 issues printer related. #1. The ID was not perfectly round. I think that this was caused by my X axis dragging a little. I loosened the bottom follower wheel a little, and the axis seems smoother. #2. At the 0 (360) position of the outer diameter, I got a little puddling on the first 20 or so layers, which turned into a slight depression for the rest of the build. However, this turned to a little nub for the rest of the ID. Is there something in the g-code that could retract the filament a little more while the program is transitioning from one layer to the next?
Larry, the rest of this class, and our life, will be about tweaking the printer to try and get better prints. We will never get perfection, but over time we will try to do better and better.
I was able to print the cup successfully, however I noticed a vertical ridge on the inside wall of the cup from top to bottom. It was a rounded thin vertical ridge. I was wondering Paul if you or anyone else has seen this issue on your cup? I actually was able to print the cat (sorry Paul) and it actually turned out quite nice. I am wondering if the problem with the cup is a retraction issue?
It is called a 'seam' and is normal to be there on structures like this. We can try and manage it with slicer settings, but will always be an issue. It is where the layer starts and ends.
If I could enter some progress pictures here on this u tube communication channel of my work . I would but really do not know how to compile, so I just explain , I must go back and research in your video process although only on 4&5 so far for fusion 3d. But at can't seem to constrain the 1st plain (x) of red of drawing . Where can I be messing up? Or what am I not doing right. I am working it all so far off line. Thanks so far ,for the course they do help allot and I am make some progress in using. Close but no cigar! I am social cite Facebook with project. If you wanted to view and give some feed back. Thanks for your time and charities of lessons.
My printer has not worked from the getgo. When I tried to print the dog the head went to the home position and stopped. The nozzle and bed heaters turned off. I have been in touch with Creality. I sent them a video of what occurred and pictures of the motherboard. I also ordered a new 8 mb sd card. I willl let you know what the resolution is.
Stuart, life with a 3D printer is filled with heart break. Creality should work with you to get it fixed. Then you will have some good days, and then another problem. This is true of all 3D printers. I had an $8000 3D printer, and it had all the same issues as the cheaper ones. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
Lol, I fell off immediately in fusion 360 After I have sketched the two rings and try to extrude one of them, the other disappears, and can’t be found any more..
Excellent work. Only 20 minutes into this video and learned more than the hours struggling with LinkedIn, Autodesk, and other YourYube videos. Thanks. What's your go-to coffee bean? Maybe an opportunity for TopTechBoy coffee bean merchandise?
On coffee beans . . . I actually trek up Mount Elgon, all the way to Sipi Falls. There are a group of indigenous farmers who grow Arabica beans in the mist coming off that magnificent water fall. You can actually hike up to the top of the falls, and their is a cave you can find behind the top of the falls. Anyway, I typically buy 120 pounds of unroasted beans from the farmers, and that is enough to last me 6 months to a year. Then once a week I roast enough beans to last me a week, and I grind just before I make the coffee. Typically I will pull a really strong shot of espresso, then when that is poured over ice, the melting ice dilutes the espresso to a really wonderful and drinkable ice coffee. The coffee I am getting over here is really better than anything I ever got back home.
PEELING OFF BUILD PLATE. 🍽 If your work is peeling up: Try using a "brim". As soon as the brim is printed, carefully sellotape the brim to the build plate. Be extra careful not to put any pressure on it. 🙂👍
WHITE MARKS ON UNDERNEATH. ⬛️ If you have difficulty removing you work from the build plate, you will most likely also have white marks on the underneath of your work. Under a microscope 🔬 these white marks are actually tiny strands of plastic like hair. A lick of flame 🔥 will fix this a treat 🙂👍 You may also wish to try acetone smoothing (It doesn't have to be acetone (nail varnish remover)) any solvent will do 😀👍 Simply leave your work in a small enclosure where the solvent vapour is present for a few (40) minutes or so. 🙂👍
When I try to 'Save to Removable Drive' I keep getting "Error - Could not save to F:/CES_FirstPrintv1.gcode: (Error 13) Permission denied: 'F:/CES_FirstPrintv1.gcode' I tried changing security settings on the SD card with Windows without success.
@@paulmcwhorter I found the problem. The write protect switch on my SD card adapter (which I did not know it had) was switched on. All is well now. Thanks for responding.
You are the best, So many people explained but not through the perspective of the beginner. Thank you again.
I appreciate that!
am sure the work that go into these tutorials is a lot but it is sure worth it
Hi Paul
Yeh mate was one of those that bought the printer, made a few things for the printer itself with downloaded code and then parked it up for 3 years. You have given me a new lease of life with your lessons and finally designing my own gear.
Thanks mate
Cheers
Mick
Well done. Enjoy!
First print came out excellent. Thank you for the videos.
LEGEND! Nothing like the feeling of a good first print. Well Done!
Off to a great start. Thank you for such a concise tutorial
Thanks Muchly. I'm a novice with Fusion, your slow steady approach is much appreciated. Too many other tutorials, as you say, go too fast to follow. And your emphasis on workflow got through to me. For example, I never noticed the Sketch Lock symbol on the Browser and none of the other Tuts I have watched have ever mentioned it...
I am a very experienced Sketchup Pro user. (20 years since V5). But as you explained so well, Fusion ain't PowerPoint, (or Sketchup :).
A huge 'Aha' moment for me was you mentioning that after an Extrude, for example, the Sketch disappears. This has had me stumped and stalled for 2 months.
Subscribed.
Thanks Paul.
This is for everyone... if you are not using Octoprint or similar, you can save a lot of time not moving a SD card around all the time. I run it on an old Raspberry Pi B+ (I think... circa 2013) and you connect with your browser. Drag & drop gcode.
Also, I just started using glue sticks on the print bed - a glass plate on my Ender 3, and it has worked wonderfully. Just any cheap glue stick from ol Walton's store - looks like a big chapstick. Mine is branded pen+ Gear. Solved my adhesion issues.
After 3 days of bad prints, I finally made it with a perfect one
Thank you very very much! Assignment is completed, have done some simple designs, but it is so cool and satisfying!
Looking forward to the next lessons!
The emphasis you put on getting started each time reminds me of the work I used to do using a GC. Everyday I would start with an hour or so getting the system just right before starting work. I always got excellent and reliable results, day after day, week after week. I am sure other people thought I was nuts, but the proof was in the pudding! Same with all of the other analytical work I did with a wide range of instruments. Not only did I get excellent reliability, but the equipment lasted longer as well. I can really relate to your checking and adjusting every time!
Hi Paul, Just a couple of suggestions. First, you can produce the stl file in F360 by using "Save Mesh" by right clicking on the object or body in the list on the left side of the screen. This is the Autodesk recommended workflow. Second, Autodesk recommends roughly creating the drawing primitive (point, line, circle, rectangle etc.) and then using dimensions and/or constraints to fully constrain it. This will prevent running into problems aligning parts etc. Cheers, Steve
Great lesson Paul! For me it was a great refresher on Fusion 360 because I haven’t used it in awhile and a great introduction to Cura. I don’t have a printer yet but I will be practicing creating a thing and slicing it. I don’t have my hobby room ready for the printer yet. It’s summer here in beautiful Lockport New York so I’ve been outside enjoying our awesome weather. Our summers are very short so we make the best of them.
Great work Paul. I just want to confirm if you have set the z offset for your printer. Also for your issue regarding the print peeling off you should try magnetic rough buildplate
Great lesson! it's so cool how we are starting small with a 'cup' like thing then we're making gears in the next couple lessons! You can teach so much so fast!!
Thanks Paul. Another great lesson.
I purchased an Ender 3V2 last year and wish I would have followed you lessons instead of figuring all of it out on my own. I'm looking forward to see where you go with this class.
I do recommend installing a Raspberry pi and ruining OctoPrint.
Great intro to Fusion, learned alot.
My kids have just started your Arduino course and I am doing your Fusion course as we speak. Many thanks for producing all this quality content. Keep up the great work
Great to hear!
Snagged a v2 neo. Having a great time so thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks for your class. Many thanks. Working great. Looking forward to more classes
Thanks Paul! Initially I struggled with the SW downloads but your explanation is clear and while not having the printer I am able to use
the simulator. The library has a printer and will be visiting.
My prints are coming out awesome!
I changed the design of the cup. Instead of a cup I made a cylinder with a center post. I also put some notches around the circumference at 120 degrees. I’m gonna install this into a coupling mounted on a stepper motor to check my rotation. I need to turn exactly 120 degrees.
Thanks for giving this lecture sir 🙏
Another great lesson Paul, thank you so much, you are a top teacher, I am never bored watching and learning from your videos :)
Thanks! 😃
For someone watching in 2024 or later: Fusion 360 is now called fusion
I agree rafts are obsolete anymore BUT I do find a use for the brim from time to time. Mostly when printing tall skinny objects a brim can REALLY help with adhesion
Key board shortcuts are a must, much quicker than trolling tru menus. Also is worth the effort to set up Cura with fusion under utilities. Then you can just select the body you want to print and it automatically opens Cura. New users struggle with bed level due to the moderate learning curve. Although learning the basics is a must, installing an auto bed level such as creality CR touch are very beneficial, reduce frustration and much quicker print time. You also dont have to level the bed before every print.
I dont disagree with what you are saying, but what I am trying to do here is take a person who has never used a 3D printer and never designed in Fusion, and get them to the point of a first successful design-print workflow success. Early success is key to inspiring students to stay with a topic. Over time, we will work on all the more advanced topics, and will be doing upgrades to the printer over time.
@@paulmcwhorter you are the only Teacher i like, because you are the only One which also cares about the joy of the students. It is realy fun to learn things from you and you inspires me to get starter with all of this (: Thank you very much
I am very excited to learn fusion 360, it's very interesting to learn as I'm familiar with (sketchup)
I have not yet got the printer, but I have a local Library that has a printer and I'm going to go visit them,
Great first practical tutorial - i had problems with the print quaility being too fine - it wouldn't stick to the bed and had to reduce it to Dynamic - i will keep trying!
Thanks for the vid, looking forward to the next ep!
More to come!
@@paulmcwhorter You hearted my request for a gearbox in a previous video - gonna watch this whole series a few times till I finally get the hang of f360 till I have a working gearbox!
Another nice video, thank for your help, I really like this tutorial :)
Looking forward to another great lesson! Thank You Paul!😀😀
More to come!
Just started using my Ender 3 V2 as a noob to 3D printing. Was having issues printing this design. Fortunately have watched all published lessons to date (11/22/22) so implemented Lesson 22 and voila, issues solved. My bed had a convex rather than concave profile.
As I mentioned previously, the Bambu Lab X1C is not a printer that is yet supported by Cura. I am therefore, using Bambu Studio Orca Slicer instead. My first print took 10 min and came out nicely. Suggestion: In the future, please change your cursor to Black, and make it a bit larger, to enable us to see it move around the screen better. Also, when you do move around and click on something, please describe what you are clicking on. This is more important with a tiny while cursor and will hopefully be less important if you change to a larger black cursor. Thank you...
I just ordered a X1C. I noticed that the Cura has no option for it. Does the Bambu slicer work as well as the printers?
Awesome!!👍👋
Paul, glad to see the new F-360 series. Somehow, I've not been getting notified of your videos but is happening with other channels. I think YT is putting their thumb on the scale by unclicking the notification bell! Anyway, you make a lot of good points especially about safety as I've came back to my 3D-printer only to see some horrifying malfunctions!.
Suggestion: I have placed a dedicated smoke/fire detector mounted to the very top cross-arm of my 3D printer, so if anything goes wrong I get an advanced alert.
I was able to use some really sticky double-sided tape so I could mount it in the correct up/down configuration. I DO-NOT recommend that you ever leave your house with a 3D-printer running; too often I've had failures of one sort or another and was glad I was around. I understand that sometimes you need to let them go overnight and that is why I put the smoke-detector right above mine.
It doesn't happen often but any micro-computer can glitch/crash and do something like leave the bed or nozzle heater stuck on. Also, the solid-state relays can short out and do the same thing.
So, please take Paul's warnings seriously!
I have noticed the last few months that my channel is losing momentum, like youtube no longer wants to send people my way. I do indeed think they tweak the scales to promote certain world views and politics.
When I built my printer it was clear that there was a lot of up and down slop in the right hand end of the X-axis gantry. Only one of the 3 support rollers was actually in contact with the vertical pillar. This meant that the X gantry wasn't level and the up and down slop was obviously going to cause problems when moving the print head around manually to do the levelling. I watched a couple of videos on X gantry levelling and then set my printer up so that the X-axis was level and all the rollers were in contact. Bed levelling then worked fine for me (I did it with the bed hot which adds a bit of extra excitement to the process). My test print went really well with excellent bed adhension. Out of the box, its a lottery as to how horizontal the x-axis will be on any particular printer due to manufacturing and assembly tollerances. Paul was clearly lucky with his printer, but I would suggest that anyone having bed levelling issues checks how level their x-axis is and how much vertical slop there is at the right hand end. Get that sorted and you will have a good basis to work from.
Life with a 3D printer is a life of constant tweaking, upgrading, adjusting and fussing, just trying to get that perfect first level. Yes, getting the X gantry level is very important. The more perfect you get the X gantry, the easier it will be to level the bed.
Just waiting
Great job sir
I thought that infill didn't matter that much either until I wanted to print different things and speed started to be a concern. Gyroid is fast grid is strong and there are actually settings in infill that will speed things up considerably other than infill amount.
I am having a lot of trouble with my Ender 3 v2. Bed levelling and adhesion are very inexact science. My version of the cup has voids in the sides looking from the top, is not round and has blobs on the inside and outside walls. My first dog print was great, except that the rear half of the skirt was missing. Since then it has been downhill for me. I have watched hours of RUclips videos and tried to learn from them. Anything Paul can tell us about troubleshooting problems will be invaluable for learning this art of 3D printing. By the way, the yellow cursor helps a lot to follow the videos.
In these lessons we will be covering how to tweak the printer in future videos. For now, try to get the bed as level as you can. If you can not get it perfect in all areas of your bed, at least try to get it as good as possible in the region of the bed your print will be. Look under the print bed, and see if the springs above the adjustment knobs are roughly equally extended. That is to say, on one side if they are very compressed and the other side they are extended, that means your X-gantry is not level, and your X-gantry needs to be aligned. I will show that in future videos, but for now look on youtube for a video on how to level the X gantry on the Creality Ender. When your printer is aligned properly bed leveling should just be a final tweak. Also, the key is dont give up. All printers can be made to work, but they have to be adjusted and fine tuned.
Hey Paul, in the Sketch Pallet, uncheck the bottom option “3D Sketch”. That will fix you having to click TOP on the view cube.
Dave, yes I realized that after I made the video. Prior to filming, I had been playing with offset sketch planes, and then when I started making the video, I realized I was still in 3D sketch mode. I hope it did not confuse people.
IMO to be deliberate about dimension, you should type mm after the number. Fusion does not care what the default unit is, as long as you specify what you want.
Thank you.
Thank you
Also for a faster export…
if you Right-click on your Body, then left click choose “Save as Mesh” (used to be called “Save as STL”). It exports without saving to the Cloud.
You can also launch straight into Cura and automatically load your STL if so desired.
Thanks for suggestion.
File/3D print will bring up the same dialog box.
Problems I am having are project is peeling off and the corners are rolling up on the bottom. I was using the slicer that came with my ender 3 but I have installed Cura so hoping I can fix some of my issues, also mine was set to print a raft so I will change the setting. Thanks for taking the time to create these lessons Paul.
OK, first, do the print just like I did it in the video. Make sure your bed is properly leveled. If you are having trouble leveling the bed, you might have to adjust the X axis Gantry, lots of videos on youtube on how to do that. Life with a 3D printer is a constant struggle to get prints to adhere to the bed.
I noticed you had '3D Sketch' checked in Fusion 360 Sketch Palette which is why you started with a 3D view of your sketch and a more complicated move tool. I do not know how to reset the Default on this though, it seems to remember these palette settings through new design or even a program restart, but it is not impacted by a preferences reset. Maybe someone knows how to get the UI back completely to a default state? However in preferences, Design for your account you can uncheck 'Auto hide sketch on feature creation' to address your other complaint about unwanted 'helpful' behavior!
As much as I love your tutorials (Arduino on down through the years) I am disappointed that I cannot continue with using Ultimaker without having a 3D printer. I was hoping to learn how to use Fusion with you before buying a printer.
Like you I just want to learn Fusion. Just skip thru to Ep4 and start from there, it is good stuff.
I'm struggling with getting a proper export from Cura. The Makerbot Replicator extensions don't work as documented, and while I see a lot of complaining on the forums, I don't see a lot of solutions. Thankfully, Makerbot Desktop is still available and allows me to tweak most of the same tweakables as Cura. Hopefully as this course progresses, I'll be able to make Cura work properly for my printer.
Very impressive!!!👌👌👌👌🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🖖🖖🖖🖖🖖
good thing I did my research and bought a Prusa printer that just works, without all this low-end product nonsense
Is there a companion book for this course?
Nice haircut man.
I got scalped. They dont know how to cut old white man hair here. The guys spent two hours on the haircut trying to figure it out, and it just kept getting shorter.
@@paulmcwhorter For what it's worth, I like it. Sometimes it's good to make a change.
8:20 Skip to Fusion360 explanation
Have I got this right? I am using an XYZ da Vinci Mini computer. It has a slicing process built into the printer. So I assume I have no need to download the Cura software package? Is that correct? Thanks for the effort you put into these videos.
I had my printer 5 days and already it came up with a dark blue screen. I couldn’t do anything with the printer. Not sure what happened; but, I’m guessing that I was not careful enough about when to remove the SD card. After doing much research on the internet I came up with a plan of how to fix the blue screen problem. I had to flash the main board with a file downloaded from the Creality website. I got the printer working again and now I’m a happily printing 3D again.
WOW, great to hear you worked through it. 3D printers are definitely not good as a first project type of thing. You need to have good troubleshooting skills, as you have demonstrated. 3D printers require lots of TLC to keep them working.
Where did you get your hair cut? Nice.
Thankyou TopTechMan
How about multi color printing
Especially spheres or to be more precise The 🌍
There's 2 options for printing multi color, the first and least expensive is to look for PLA that offers 2 or more of the color you want or and this is probably the most technical is to install a dual extruder, however I would probably advise caution if you're new to 3D printing. but, there are some really good PLA's available especially if you want to have something with multiple colors without having to constantly change the PLA everytime.
Paul, everything is working great here. There seems a residue left on the build plate. How would I go about cleaning it to its original condition? Bob from Lancaster, Pa.
There's a number of alternatives to this. You can either use a surgical spirit to clean the build plate or some Isopropyonal cleaning fluid should help to clear any residue from the plate.
BED NOT LEVEL. 🛌
For those of you with issues of a depression in the middle of the bed:
Remove the build plate (glass).
Cut out ✂️ several squares of paper around 50mm to 70mm.
Place these squares of paper under the build plate in the center.
You may also require 4 bulldog clips to hold the corners of the plate down.
Then re-level the bed and see that the problem is solved. 🙂👍
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
first print of the dog worked like a charm, but i'm having a lot of trouble getting a second print to stick.
there's a visible circle in the middle of the plate where the dog was and it seems like the PLA doesn't want to adhere to anywhere that the dog was touching the print bed? i can't see or feel any actual material there, a google search says to clean using isopropyl alcohol and scraping off any old bits, but there's not really anything to scrape. i tried it anyway, no luck. i am pretty confident i'm leveling the bed well, all four corners and the middle have feel a little grippy on the paper. i've tried to start a second print three times so far with the same results each time, basically just end up with a string of filament following the nozzle around, not attaching to the bed at all, and ends up in a knot after going in a few circles trying to do the skirt and i cancel it. have also checked/adjusted bed leveling and tried cleaning it again between attempts. the visible circle where the dog printed remains.
thinking about going to buy some hairspray tomorrow just to try it 😅
ok well i tried hairspray which still didn’t help. i went through a ton of videos/articles about to to best clean the printing plate, tried a bunch and still no dice. found one that mentioned doing a deep clean with hot water and soap in the sink, so i tried that, and now it’s working! or at least first layer actually stuck and is holding its shape as the extruded moves around, 🤞🤞for the rest!
Thanks for the nice tutorials. Should the bed leveling not be done when bed and hotend is at temp? Does it not expand more after heating?
People argue about this. I dont heat the bed, because if I heat things up, then the filament starts oozing out the nozzle, and makes it harder for me to measure the gap with the paper. Some people argue the other way, as you suggest.
I just saw the course this GREAT! I Tried the original course and Autodesk stopped my trial,I have no clue why? I have been using tinkercad. I am back on Fusion 360 and downloaded cura. Cura works very differently on my “tinkertoy of 3D printers. I am considering the ender, it the auto level with the few dollars more?
Start with the basic printer I link to in the description. Then over time in these lessons I will be showing upgrades to the printer. I am not sure auto bed level would be the first upgrade I would buy.
Shouldn't you heat the bed before leveling?
Some argue to level with the bed hot, but for simple prints it does not make a big difference. Certainly is an option you can consider.
Excellent video! Out of curiosity, why the Acura slicer vs what Creality provides? Is the Creality slicer based on Cura? Thanks.
There is a very large user base around Cura, and it is simple to start, but allows lots of customization. It is just the slice I am familiar with and that I prefer.
At 22:21 I seem to be unable to select the inner circle. After extruding the outer circle, the inner one is unable to be selected. Anyone else experiencing this? Any suggestions? Thanks. Further review resolved this. Please disregard.
Hi Paul, thanks for the lesson. I was able to follow along really well, and create the "cup". I came across 2 issues printer related. #1. The ID was not perfectly round. I think that this was caused by my X axis dragging a little. I loosened the bottom follower wheel a little, and the axis seems smoother. #2. At the 0 (360) position of the outer diameter, I got a little puddling on the first 20 or so layers, which turned into a slight depression for the rest of the build. However, this turned to a little nub for the rest of the ID. Is there something in the g-code that could retract the filament a little more while the program is transitioning from one layer to the next?
Larry, the rest of this class, and our life, will be about tweaking the printer to try and get better prints. We will never get perfection, but over time we will try to do better and better.
I was able to print the cup successfully, however I noticed a vertical ridge on the inside wall of the cup from top to bottom. It was a rounded thin vertical ridge. I was wondering Paul if you or anyone else has seen this issue on your cup? I actually was able to print the cat (sorry Paul) and it actually turned out quite nice. I am wondering if the problem with the cup is a retraction issue?
It is called a 'seam' and is normal to be there on structures like this. We can try and manage it with slicer settings, but will always be an issue. It is where the layer starts and ends.
If I could enter some progress pictures here on this u tube communication channel of my work . I would but really do not know how to compile, so I just explain , I must go back and research in your video process although only on 4&5 so far for fusion 3d. But at can't seem to constrain the 1st plain (x) of red of drawing . Where can I be messing up? Or what am I not doing right. I am working it all so far off line. Thanks so far ,for the course they do help allot and I am make some progress in using. Close but no cigar! I am social cite Facebook with project. If you wanted to view and give some feed back. Thanks for your time and charities of
lessons.
My printer has not worked from the getgo. When I tried to print the dog the head went to the home position and stopped. The nozzle and bed heaters turned off. I have been in touch with Creality. I sent them a video of what occurred and pictures of the motherboard. I also ordered a new 8 mb sd card. I willl let you know what the resolution is.
Stuart, life with a 3D printer is filled with heart break. Creality should work with you to get it fixed. Then you will have some good days, and then another problem. This is true of all 3D printers. I had an $8000 3D printer, and it had all the same issues as the cheaper ones. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
I was able to print the dog. I purchased a new 8mb sd chip, formatted it and copied the dog file to the new chip.
@@paulmcwhorter I bought a new 8 mb sd chip, formatted it and copied the dog file to the new chip. I was then able to print the dog.
Lol, I fell off immediately in fusion 360
After I have sketched the two rings and try to extrude one of them, the other disappears, and can’t be found any more..
Oki, after watching it again I fixed my problem by pressing the eye on the sketch that automatically gets greyed out..
That threw me at first also.
Excellent work. Only 20 minutes into this video and learned more than the hours struggling with LinkedIn, Autodesk, and other YourYube videos. Thanks. What's your go-to coffee bean? Maybe an opportunity for TopTechBoy coffee bean merchandise?
On coffee beans . . . I actually trek up Mount Elgon, all the way to Sipi Falls. There are a group of indigenous farmers who grow Arabica beans in the mist coming off that magnificent water fall. You can actually hike up to the top of the falls, and their is a cave you can find behind the top of the falls. Anyway, I typically buy 120 pounds of unroasted beans from the farmers, and that is enough to last me 6 months to a year. Then once a week I roast enough beans to last me a week, and I grind just before I make the coffee. Typically I will pull a really strong shot of espresso, then when that is poured over ice, the melting ice dilutes the espresso to a really wonderful and drinkable ice coffee. The coffee I am getting over here is really better than anything I ever got back home.
PEELING OFF BUILD PLATE. 🍽
If your work is peeling up:
Try using a "brim".
As soon as the brim is printed, carefully sellotape the brim to the build plate.
Be extra careful not to put any pressure on it. 🙂👍
Great idea!
WHITE MARKS ON UNDERNEATH. ⬛️
If you have difficulty removing you work from the build plate, you will most likely also have white marks on the underneath of your work.
Under a microscope 🔬 these white marks are actually tiny strands of plastic like hair.
A lick of flame 🔥 will fix this a treat 🙂👍
You may also wish to try acetone smoothing (It doesn't have to be acetone (nail varnish remover)) any solvent will do 😀👍
Simply leave your work in a small enclosure where the solvent vapour is present for a few (40) minutes or so. 🙂👍
When I try to 'Save to Removable Drive' I keep getting "Error - Could not save to F:/CES_FirstPrintv1.gcode: (Error 13) Permission denied: 'F:/CES_FirstPrintv1.gcode' I tried changing security settings on the SD card with Windows without success.
Dont know what would cause that. Try to just save to disk, and then old fashioned copy over to your SD card.
@@paulmcwhorter I found the problem. The write protect switch on my SD card adapter (which I did not know it had) was switched on. All is well now. Thanks for responding.
Go into note pad and try to save a text document to the same SD Card 👍
Just for elimination purposes 👍
If this doesn't work, reformat the SD Card 👍