You don't owe anyone any apology or justification on what you do or how you do it. Your patience and knowledge of small engine repair is awesome to watch. Wishing you continued and magnified success ...
I'm hoping you did a valve adjustment on the other cylinder. Given how bad the first one was I suspect the other one had to be at least pretty loose, even though it seemed to be running OK. I would have approached the diag algorithm quite a bit differently, but you did get there in the end. I wanted to do a leakdown test pretty early on - right after the compression test. I'm surprised you didn't mention anything about why the fuel was in the crankcase, the carb needle/seat, cylinder wash, etc. If I discovered oil smelling like fuel my first step would have been to do an oil change with used oil just to get the engine running safely.
Love all your videos I've learned so much from you walking through things. You don't need to apologize for any thing. Keep doing what you do for me I think you. Awesome video Thanks
Great video, Kyle! I can't believe how many people commented without watching the entire thing! Must be kind of a bummer for you having to explain all this stuff that was already explained in the video. I've been guilty of that myself sometimes, but I think it's more of a fun guessing game on my part. Now that I've seen what a PITA it is for you to have to answer all the unnecessary questions I think from now on I'll watch all videos to the end first! ;-)
Makes sense to me. You have to see it from my side too- the comments come in like “check the spark plug”, when I clearly check the spark plug in the video. I don’t know how to respond to those comments besides saying “I hope you get a chance to watch the whole video”
That Ferris was a huge score! Trying to figure out the FBMP market and what to price things at seems to be a real guessing game for everyone at times. I'm really new to it myself. I just sold my first push mower on MP and had over a dozen tire kickers and lowballers before someone actually showed up on time with my (then) asking price in hand and ready to pay that full amount. It sold in a couple weeks but those were the longest weeks! Luckily, I stuck to my guns and only put the price down by $25 once and I don't think that was what brought this buyer out. When you started to talk about pricing the Ferris but hadn't mentioned any numbers I immediately thought $1200 was too low and settled on $1800 as the listed price. At that I'd have been willing to let it go for maybe $1750, but not any lower. It's a commercial machine in what appears to be very good condition with an excellent engine. I haven't priced new ones in that bracket but I'd bet they sell for 3-4 times that much at least.
It’s a hard year to try and put value on used equipment this year. Inflation and the amount of money people have or are willing to spend right now is throwing a monkey wrench in everything I have never seen before. Up here, normally without looking at what something like that costs new I’d list it at 2k. Machines like that now new at Dealers are up there. Throw a sulky on that some landscaper is set.
Wow I can't believe it even started with that much gas in the oil I guess them older Kawasaki's are bullet proof👍🏾 That engine sounds great! Still one of the best mowers for hills. Pretty cool oil wrench also. Red is definitely a go, I believe $1500 is the sweet spot that's a money maker for sure and it will handle a Sulky💯
Kyle - 99% of diagnosis is getting it wrong. Trial by error until you find the problem. Keep doin what you do, and let the haters build their own channel.
I'd check the spark plug coil for bad body ground wire not making contact.,or burned out. Even could be the oil rings yes.,or valves out of adjustment to.
Wow you actually went right thru it all! Good job! A brand new walk behind goes for $5,000 and a new Ferris 52" are going for $9,300. $1,800 is a sweet deal!
I just thought of A idea you could add on to that walk behind mower. Is A hitch plate for A pivoting feet stand on wheels to ride on behind while mowing with it being self propelled anyways.
Called a sulky. Sometimes hard to find and they can be expensive. I think this thing will sell just fine without me buying a sulky for it. I’ll let the new owner worry about that
Try changing the motor oil in the engine. Cause it kinda sounds like A velocity issues from thinned out oil from gas in it. I believe the carburetor is dirty from bad fuel in it. Causing surging and flooding and floating issues to. Which will cause rough throttling full power output. Even though it does sound like loose valve lash to really badly to. Which will cause parcel running one both cylinders to just one from time to time. From being out of adjustment due to broken down and possibly not changing.,or changed motor oil in that machine at all.
I did change the oil. Maybe you haven’t watched the whole video. Hard to tell from your comment, but maybe you’re making the comment early on in the video, but I can’t tell at which point you wrote the comment unless you time stamp your comment
There was only one tensioner adjustment, and I adjusted it to fit the new belt I put on. The belt that came with the machine was incorrect, and it wasn't routed correctly.
I know A trick you can try out ATF transmission fluid 4 ounces into the motor oil run 20 to 30 minutes then drain the oil and change it. If it's A stuck valve it'll release from the detergent in the ATF transmission fluid.
@@Kylebythecreek okay thanks for the info on the engine on this mower I watched it and I skipped through the part of where you read the model number for this engine but at least you got it running like it is supposed to run Kyle by the creek
ignorance means I do not know. Stupidity means I don't want to know. I honour your learning curve. I enjoyed your work
You don't owe anyone any apology or justification on what you do or how you do it. Your patience and knowledge of small engine repair is awesome to watch. Wishing you continued and magnified success ...
Much appreciated George!
W comment 🙏
I like when he apologizes. He should do that more
Your videos are awesome please dont edit out the troubleshooting and mistakes
Thanks for your videos and God bless
Thank you
Last time I grabbed a plug wire on a running mower was the last time I'll grab a plug wire on a running mower!
Just a little shock to wake you up
I'm hoping you did a valve adjustment on the other cylinder. Given how bad the first one was I suspect the other one had to be at least pretty loose, even though it seemed to be running OK.
I would have approached the diag algorithm quite a bit differently, but you did get there in the end. I wanted to do a leakdown test pretty early on - right after the compression test.
I'm surprised you didn't mention anything about why the fuel was in the crankcase, the carb needle/seat, cylinder wash, etc. If I discovered oil smelling like fuel my first step would have been to do an oil change with used oil just to get the engine running safely.
I didn’t do the valves on the other side. No issues there. I don’t fix what ain’t broke!
Love all your videos I've learned so much from you walking through things.
You don't need to apologize for any thing.
Keep doing what you do for me I think you.
Awesome video
Thanks
Thank you!
Great video, Kyle! I can't believe how many people commented without watching the entire thing! Must be kind of a bummer for you having to explain all this stuff that was already explained in the video. I've been guilty of that myself sometimes, but I think it's more of a fun guessing game on my part. Now that I've seen what a PITA it is for you to have to answer all the unnecessary questions I think from now on I'll watch all videos to the end first! ;-)
Makes sense to me. You have to see it from my side too- the comments come in like “check the spark plug”, when I clearly check the spark plug in the video. I don’t know how to respond to those comments besides saying “I hope you get a chance to watch the whole video”
@@Kylebythecreek
I saw those very diplomatic replies. You’re a good man, Charlie Brown! 😉
That Ferris was a huge score!
Trying to figure out the FBMP market and what to price things at seems to be a real guessing game for everyone at times. I'm really new to it myself. I just sold my first push mower on MP and had over a dozen tire kickers and lowballers before someone actually showed up on time with my (then) asking price in hand and ready to pay that full amount. It sold in a couple weeks but those were the longest weeks! Luckily, I stuck to my guns and only put the price down by $25 once and I don't think that was what brought this buyer out.
When you started to talk about pricing the Ferris but hadn't mentioned any numbers I immediately thought $1200 was too low and settled on $1800 as the listed price. At that I'd have been willing to let it go for maybe $1750, but not any lower. It's a commercial machine in what appears to be very good condition with an excellent engine. I haven't priced new ones in that bracket but I'd bet they sell for 3-4 times that much at least.
It’s a hard year to try and put value on used equipment this year. Inflation and the amount of money people have or are willing to spend right now is throwing a monkey wrench in everything I have never seen before. Up here, normally without looking at what something like that costs new I’d list it at 2k. Machines like that now new at Dealers are up there. Throw a sulky on that some landscaper is set.
Wow I can't believe it even started with that much gas in the oil I guess them older Kawasaki's are bullet proof👍🏾 That engine sounds great! Still one of the best mowers for hills. Pretty cool oil wrench also. Red is definitely a go, I believe $1500 is the sweet spot that's a money maker for sure and it will handle a Sulky💯
Thank you!
That’s was a sweet trade. That should bring some big bucks. A landscaper could add a sulky and take that thing to town.
Sold it the other day for $1800
@@Kylebythecreek Nice 👍
I appreciate the detailed process of knowledge. I'm learning.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching
On that key switch spray A shot of PB blaster inside of it and work the tumbler it'll come back around.
Rusted kill wires to the coil. Watch to the end
Kyle - 99% of diagnosis is getting it wrong. Trial by error until you find the problem. Keep doin what you do, and let the haters build their own channel.
Thank you very much!
I'd check the spark plug coil for bad body ground wire not making contact.,or burned out. Even could be the oil rings yes.,or valves out of adjustment to.
Yup! I definitely checked the spark plug coil in the video. You’ll see once you watch it
4 caps out of the ATF transmission fluid in the oil will help free up the stick lifter's and valve's on that cylinder.
No stuck lifters on this one
Wow you actually went right thru it all! Good job! A brand new walk behind goes for $5,000 and a new Ferris 52" are going for $9,300. $1,800 is a sweet deal!
Yeah, $1800 was a sweet deal. Glad it sold
I just thought of A idea you could add on to that walk behind mower. Is A hitch plate for A pivoting feet stand on wheels to ride on behind while mowing with it being self propelled anyways.
Called a sulky. Sometimes hard to find and they can be expensive. I think this thing will sell just fine without me buying a sulky for it. I’ll let the new owner worry about that
It didn't slip my mind....it always come down to an ORING
You guessed it!
I could tell by the way the gas tank was mounted that it was not an Exmark. Those are some solid mowers.
Try changing the motor oil in the engine. Cause it kinda sounds like A velocity issues from thinned out oil from gas in it. I believe the carburetor is dirty from bad fuel in it. Causing surging and flooding and floating issues to. Which will cause rough throttling full power output. Even though it does sound like loose valve lash to really badly to. Which will cause parcel running one both cylinders to just one from time to time. From being out of adjustment due to broken down and possibly not changing.,or changed motor oil in that machine at all.
I did change the oil. Maybe you haven’t watched the whole video. Hard to tell from your comment, but maybe you’re making the comment early on in the video, but I can’t tell at which point you wrote the comment unless you time stamp your comment
It's the ethanol fuel destroying the those O Rings and bowl.
Ethanol didn’t do this. It was installed incorrectly and crushed
Doesn't rerouting the belt alter the spinning ratio of the spindles?
There was only one tensioner adjustment, and I adjusted it to fit the new belt I put on. The belt that came with the machine was incorrect, and it wasn't routed correctly.
@@Kylebythecreek thanks for the explanation! Was curious!
I know A trick you can try out ATF transmission fluid 4 ounces into the motor oil run 20 to 30 minutes then drain the oil and change it. If it's A stuck valve it'll release from the detergent in the ATF transmission fluid.
The valves aren’t too hard to get at on these engines. I’d probably just opt to do the valve job
Running on one cylinder is definitely not a great thing what brand of engine is it have
Kawasaki. Hopefully you get to watch the whole video, I fix it and give a run down of the model of the engine
@@Kylebythecreek okay thanks for the info on the engine on this mower I watched it and I skipped through the part of where you read the model number for this engine but at least you got it running like it is supposed to run Kyle by the creek
I Saw You Set The Valve Lash On One Side But Not The Other Side, Did You Check And Set The Lash On The Other Side?
I didn’t check the other side. Everything was operating perfectly on that side
It's just Another trick tip you can try out on future projects.
Do u have the parts number on that bagger?
No, sorry
I think one side of the motor is not running maybe
Keep watching. I fix it
Yeah it not hard to work on those lonmore I was working on this stuff we I was young 😂
So you’re saying I made it look easy?? Nice!
Ferris?
Yes
Never
Going
To
@@tomgreen-qq2tc to
Give
You