This is, by far, the best wheel painting video on RUclips. I’ve watched hundreds, and while there are lots of great videos, this one is in depth yet extremely simplistic. Your narration and explanation sounds like it was professionally produced. Well done and the wheels look like new! I also enjoyed your reaction when your son made his cameo! 😂
Absolutely. Simplistic. In detail. And you narrate so fluently. No fumbling. No repeating or boring us with unnecessary info. Even when yor son walked in you never spend a whole 10mins on him, ack owledge his presence n then got on with the job. Very professional. I'm a subscriber. Happy one too
This is exactly what DIY content should look like. No expensive tools. No difficult processes. This man not only gives clear and concise instruction but could very well be the hero we all needed to save our stock ish builds. Is it the "right" way probably not. Is it the "best" way again probably not. Is it something that every single person that watches this video is capable of doing in a lasting and good looking way if they take their time; abso(expletive)lutely. This is great. I wish I would have had the motivation to figure this out or the information to solve this problem years ago. 99% of us are doing 1 of 2 things. Living with the problem or replacing the wheels. I have lived in both scenarios. Thanks to 6th Gear Garage keep it up brother. You have my attention.
Thank you for the encouraging words! That was my goal- to show what is possible in an ordinary garage, on a budget. Thanks for watching. I just finished the center caps the other day and will have that video up next week.
@6thGearGarage to be fair you had a buddy sand blast the rims for beer. How much would that cost for people without the tools and without the friends? Not criticizing, just asking.
Great video!!! Better part of 20 years ago I worked for an aircraft component overhaul facility that did wheels, brakes, and landing gear. That summer I worked the paint shop and learned a lot of the basic rules you mentioned. I did mostly aircraft wheels and an awesome trick I'd like to share is... Buy a cheap "lazy Susan" which is a circular set of bearings and cut some plywood into circles a few inches larger than the wheels. Install the lazy Susan on the bottom. Now you have a ideal "base" to put the wheel on!!! Spray can in one hand, and turning the wheel with the other. You can now spray continuously without stopping and it will cut your spray time immensely!!! Another good tip: When your finger gets tired, I simply swap to using my thumb!!! I have found that I have similar "dexterity" and that thumb is way stronger than my index finger. Years later I started doing my own car wheels. I bought my own (old) commercial sandblast cabinet (2x4x4 dual entry), an old industrial air compressor, and I bet I have now refinished roughly 25 to 30 wheels over the course of the past 8 years now. It's a super fun hobby and very rewarding! My next step is getting into a set of HVLP spray guns like I used to use in that actual paint booth all those years ago...
Always just made a mount for them, but yeah spinning the wheels with either a lazy Susan or something homemade will help a lot if you restore wheels as a hobby or professionally.
A $20 spray gun works just fine for a while, the paint is the deciding factor, but engine enamel works well too. Clear coat is necessary in my opinion.
They look awesome! Well done. I have painted many wheels in the last 40 years, but never put as much effort as you have here. You have taught this old dog some new tricks to utilize when I tackle the next set! Thanks!
I painted for about 36 years. The self etching primer is an acid and is not made to be sprayed to cover. One light coat is all you need. If you need to cover things up like scratches or plastic filler you will need to use a regular primer like a lacquer primer or a 2k primer for example.
I like how you did your homework on testing the clearcoat that helps alot. I do appreciate how you describe what your doing for the diy at home people, very good job. The brush on black paint i though was a good touch considering im about to do that to my truck wheels. Keep up the good work and I can't wait to see your next video. Thanks Terry
They look absolutely fantastic on the vehicle man. What a difference! I don't know if I would say "professional results" with the scalloped edge insets, but who cares. They made the truck look great.
Love it when skilled people share theirs on here, whether they were trained or have learnt themselves by trial & error. It's very refreshing to learn or even gain the confidence do do a job yourself, knowing you can possibly do it, but need that little extra support, without having to fork out mega bugs to have it done for you. Thank you for your perfectly narrated & videoed step by step honest, real, informative video. It must of been good to keep me watching for nearly an hour Lol. Cute kid, future helper... Nice one 🙂
You are your worse critic; I think you did a phenomenal job young man. Very nice-looking wheels and center caps, and they look great on your truck. I absolutely liked watching you work. Thank you for making this video for all of us to see.
Wheels came out looking great. I hope they last a while. Duplicolor isn't known for holding up to the elements for very long, especially on something that takes a beating like wheels. If I went through all that work I would have used a good urethane base coat and a 2k clear coat like the factory. Both are available in rattle cans too.
I would have done a 2k clear, but urethane shouldn't be applied over enamel, or it can cause the paint to lift. I will use 2k on other wheels in the future where I don't use any enamel paint.
Those little lines that you see on your wheels from the lathe are what is called tooling marks. It's where the cutting tool made it's path during the machining process.
If you use a high velocity urethane spray it won't dull the reflective shine on piece your painting..same thing they use on guitars for a very high Sheen..
The only issue was that chrome paint was an enamel, and urethanes can cause enamels to lift. I'll have to find something reflective like that in a lacquer or urethane to be able to put urethane over top. I'd prefer urethane over enamel any day.
I'm not an automotive painter just a dumb commercial painter but your spray technique is spot on. like you said do the crevices first then the easy. looks great keep it up
Fantastic video, very complete. Probably the best I've seen in years due to the amount of important detail you included. You have a talent for teaching and laying things out clearly. Well, done.
Looks really good! Gonna try it myself. For what it’s worth, I would like to see a paint job with an air compressor. Would the process be much different if the wheels were on the vehicle?
You'd really be better off removing them for painting to avoid overspray on the brakes, plus doing all that work on the dusty ground where you'll be hunched over isn't worth the time it takes to remove the wheels. You don't have to dismount the tires, you could mask those off.
If you want a professional job take the wheels off and follow this video. I find Spray cans much easier than a compressor. I’d only consider leaving wheels on if you don’t care about the finish and are putting hubcaps on.
I just used some rustoleum matte clear on my truck's wheels holding up even after 2 years. It's all in the prep. Also let them cure for 2 weeks. Had another set of wheels at the time.
A great way to keep the wheels from scratching or lifting due to the clear coat issue, Use a professional grade ceramic coating for the wheel faces !!!! Would have a 10h hardness and last for a good 3 to 5 years . Also helps protect from brake dust and environmental fallout!
Removing rust... without getting tired. A small container with molasses. Drop the wheel inside. Put a cover on the container. Wait 2 weeks. Take out the wheel. Rinse with water. And voilà. No rubbing. No more rust.
That is a lot of molasses, to cover a rim. And two weeks? That's ten weeks to do five rims, or quite a bit more molasses and several containers. And the molasses is basically useless for anything else afterwards. I suppose if you do rims a lot, and you have room to keep tubs or drums of molasses stored, it would be okay.
The tire shop damage really really upset me after so much progress brother they all of the franchise type tire shops have caused damages like this to mine and costs me at least 80 bucks as usally had multiple sets of tires i would need swapped over , so i bought a tire machine and havent had a scratch or chip sence , thank you for all the valuable nowlege about the chemical mixes and primer setup and prep 😊
I have (4) of almost the same style wheels except they're the spiral teardrop type. They've never been in salty weather since I live in the west coast. I was thinking of selling them as is and getting a few bucks for them but your tutorial makes me want to redo them. They're the 6 lug that came from my pre 2000 Toyota Tacoma and the only reason I had to replace them was because Discount Tire supposedly "doesn't carry" the Michelin Defender series tire in that size so I had to go a little bigger. Personally, I think they were just upwelling me which I bought into because my wheels were looking very worn and I wanted new ones anyway (got $170 back in rebates though). Though I highly doubt I'll be able to get the high quality results like you got, I'd like to know about how much you think I should charge for them once they're done. Thanks in advance for the feedback, and great tutorial man.
Hey, I'm trying to picture the wheels you have and the only 6 lug ones I can picture are the tri-claw wheels that are a split 3-spoke design. Are yours aftermarket?
This has to be the longest spray paint video I've ever watched, all the way through. And that, sir, is a high complement. Well done, and so sorry about the damage the tire counters did to your rims, from a guy who used to work mounting tires from 12" car tires all the way up to big rigs, farm tractors, and earth moving machinery. There really is no excuse for it other than laziness and apathy. Done correctly, the machinery used for mounting those tires should never damage the rims or even a spray painted finish. BTW, in the future, when testing a new method, like brushing on the recessed black sections, start with the designated spare like you had in this set. The lessons learned on the first wheel can then be carried over to the mounted wheels. (Just a thought.) Nice looking wheels, and great video. Well done.
This is definitely the way to go. Forget about harsh, toxic, carcinogenic chemicals that will consume a ton of time and effort and will not even produce good results. Don't ask me how I know.... Great video edition.
I usually have a small cup with thinners in and drop all the paint nozzles in to keep them from blocking up Maybe try that Just use thinners not turps based it cleans so much better You needed to do a guide coat when sanding the filler and then you would see all imperfections They do look good Scratches ar,e always a problem with painted wheels
Very helpful tips. I've done one set and now through trial and error I can get much better results thanks to your video. I like the filler primer to fill imperfections. You can use a glaze putty on road rash dings that won't shrink too. Thanks 👍
If your wheels are as bad as mine, be prepared to have them sandblasted to start with. You could spend a few days with sand paper, but it makes sense to have them sand blasted to save time and get in all the recessed areas.
That was my thoughts exactly! I don't happen to have a sandblasting machine at home. Getting wheels sandblasted - £30 a wheel. Getting wheels totally refurbed - £60 a wheel.
Nice job! A little hint, before you last down the last clear, and your black edges are a little rough, you can even them all out by using a small piece of Scotchbrite, taped to a paint stir stick and carefully and lightly sand with the edge. The flat stir stick will keep the sanding only to the stop sliver surface thus removing just any black that breaks the edge. Then clean up dust and clear coat.
Oof, those scratches from the mounting machine must've hurt you deep down, I know I would've felt it. Gracious of you to deal with it so easily. Even with great care, mistakes like that can happen, but with such large sidewalls it is a bit unexcusable.
It always confused me how untrained most tire changers are at some places. One that had a 1/4 inch gouge , and a rash half way around, I welded over the lip , and on one of the spokes, on a set of wheels that were excessively dinged up from untrained dipstick. It was an oddball style that was discontinued. So I couldn't find a match to it. After way to much time grinding filing sanding and polishing, they were nice enough nobody ever noticed.
@@6thGearGarage as much as I would like to, it always takes so much longer to film and show what I'm building. I DO much better than I teach, if you get what I'm saying. But I'm the guy that can change out a motor faster than any book says it's possible, or fab anything under the sun. I just lack the clientele for the hot rods and cool stuff. And have to do things like swapping fuel pumps on crappy 96 dodge, or water pump on a cobalt......ugh....
@@ryurc3033 I hear you... there are some things I don’t bother to film because I need to work fast and listen to the radio (can’t have copyrighted music in videos)
I used Eagle One All Wheel & Tire Cleaner on my old wheels that looked a lot like yours and it got a ton of the years of dirt and grime off the wheels, it did a lot better than I was expecting.
That New England salt has destroyed my IS250 wheels so this video really helps with tips and tricks for repairing corroded and curb rashed wheel surfaces. Thanks!
i used to have a 96' LandCruiser with those wheels and the machine finish had that same kind of corrosion. Never got around to making them nicey nice but enjoyed the truck when we had it. Great job you did refinishing them
Thanks! For the 5 wheels, I probably used about 2.5 cans of the Self Etch primer, 1-2 of the filler, 1 of the sealer, 2 of the DC Silver, 2 of the VHT Silver, and 5-6 cans of clear total.
Good stuff. If I have to stop painting an enamel paint with a brush before I finish the job I put the brush in a sealed plastic bag and pop it in the fridge or the freezer.
First and formost props on a great vid and matching finish results. I did want to enlighten on the spray volume issue with the color on the first wheel, if you had used a button/nozzle out of another color can instead of the prep spray the volume wouldve been the same. The amount of clogged cans I run into is annoying. I rattle can enough to find it neccessary to keep little bags of clean buttons and with the new style cans I've been able to reduce that space since the nozzle in the button is removable. Not sure if anyone else has said any or all of what I just shared but either way, keep up the quality work! It's all in the prep! Headed over to check out your Tonka resto now! 🍻
I'm just about to take on clearning and painting some motorcycle wheels and can't powder coat them myself, so am going to follow your steps. Thanks for sharing so much detail.
I really liked yor video. Best part is that you were honest n showed off all yor mistakes. And you have a damn fine camera too. Good on you. Terrance @ South Africa
Great job the shop I worked in for about a year (I was prep guy😭)we blow it off first and then the last thing we do just before we paint is to use the tack cloth just in case anything from the blow nozzle stirs up in the air👍🤠🇺🇸
I am more than impressed! That was a lot of work but the results are well worth it. You must have saved hundreds of dollars by doing this. Maybe more! An outstanding video by far!
Such a great video. Probably watch it 2 more times. Just picked up a set of 5 FJ80 wheels. I’m want to paint them black with gold accents on wheels and caps.
What you did to your Civic wheels, I did to my 03 S10 ZQ8 wheels many years ago, I also painted the inset Black with clear because I left the inset with the stock texture. Amazing looking but I feel ya on the length of time and hours in it. I did mine while my truck was my daily driver. So I had one great looking wheel one month, 2 great looking wheels the next month and so on. Took a long time but was worth it
I just finished polishing an aftermarket wheel, just like I did with those civic wheels. ruclips.net/video/6oEFiSZDrKU/видео.html These were definitely more work though and now I have 3 more to go... I feel your pain!
I knew the chips was coming from the tire shop. I painted some wheels black and of course got a few nicks when we got new tires. some pros and cons to doing this with tires on already or not. great vod
Great video to watch for a DIY. At the end of the video you applied wax. Maybe ceramic coating would be a better choice? But still a great video to watch if you ask me. 👍🏼
Try Kleen-strip concrete and metal prep after using paint remover to remove the clear coat. Contains phosphoric acid. $16 fir a gallon at Home Depot. I also took the bottom off of a reclining chair to set my wheels on for painting so I can spin the while painting so I don’t have to do 15 laps around the wheels while painting . You do an EXCELLENT JOB! you have much more patience then me. You are a very good teacher
I'm from the east coast of Canada I feel your pain now I'm out west as a dryer winter but the same problem is here as well but it's not as bad but my 20-in rims on my truck they need to clean up
The tyre shop damaging the wheels is completely unacceptable. It boggles the mind that there still are places that can't mount a tyre without ruining the rim. Especially when rims now a days are expensive as hell.
Great video. Aluminum wheels corrode in the southwest also. I have some 98 Tacoma wheels that have damaged clear from the sun resulting in surface corrosion due to me being lazy not fixing them before corrosion set in. They do not have the salt ingress random paths you show, but there is a general corrosion. I am considering spraying them non-metallic black after sand or bead blasting them. I like your brush technique for the insets. I may paint the Toyota logo in the plastic caps with a brush and silver to pop. The originals are silver with a black logo so it might be a nice accent to match the chrome accents on the black truck. For the road rash or deep pits or gouges, you can use a metallized filler. Bondo has a metal reinforced filler #90451. There are other brands out there, but the Bondo version can be found at most auto part stores. After prep with 80 grit sand paper or blasting and cleaning, you mix both parts, spread the first coat thin with strong pressure to push the filler into the deep areas, then right after go over with a thicker swipe(s) to fill up. After it hardens you can block sand like you did with the filler to level and smooth the surface. You can go with 180 then 320 grit or what works for you. I would follow with the high build primer after that to fill in any 180 grit scratches you may not have refined with the 320, plus filler needs primer before color. Someone below mentioned 2 part glazing putty, which is good for smaller pits, but not as deep of fill areas as the road rash plus you can color coat over small areas of glazing putty. Make sure to use the 2 part putty since it is better than the 1 part, which may shrink back leaving a slight depression after it fully dries. 2K or 2 part clear is a more durable product than the 1 part clear as the same person mentioned. The down side is 2K aerosol cans are expensive.
Thanks for the heads up on the #90451. I had some 2k clear that I was planning on spraying with a spray gun, but ended up sticking with enamel clear after reading that 2k clear might not bond/cure correctly over enamel paint.
@@6thGearGarageI forgot to mention there are direct to metal (DTM) 2K clearcoats that can be sprayed over bare metal for the diamond cut wheels. I have seen videos showing how the surfaces are repaired by grinding away metal with coarse grit DA paper followed by refining grits up to extremely fine to get the shine. The DTM clear is sprayed over the bare metal and the typically black painted areas. I have one I need to repair, but haven't focused on dedicating the time to be slow and methodical because I have never done the diamond cut repair. There is a limit to how much you can grind away before losing the inset shape compared to the other wheels so the repairable damage may be limited.
@@michaelb4060 Well that's a game changer. I wanted to polish them to begin with but bare aluminum won't survive through a winter around here. Glad to know that such a 2k clearcoat exists, thanks!
I just bought a set of 78 280z wheels for my car for super cheap that's definitely seen better days, and have been wondering how to go about restoring them since I want the sliver with black inserts and this video has been a godsend for that. I've been trying to figure out how to do the inserts black because I HATE masking (it takes way too long) but your solution seems so much easier without much risk. Now, wish me luck as I set off on my endeavor...
I hate masking as well, especially on rounded areas. The black paint has held up great, I would do it again. However the silver paint is having some issues: ruclips.net/video/QxrDm90GEVA/видео.html
First what rims are on your 80 in the background? Bradley’s? Second. Great video with tons of detail. Thanks. Can’t wait to use your method on my next rim project.
I think they are Bradley IX wheels. Bradley makes a great off road wheel popular in Japan. Great wheels. Check out Bradley 4x4. I think the IX are discontinued but certainly look like the same wheel. My JDM cruiser came over with Bradley Vs on it. Looking forward to the video when you clean those up.
@@michaelturner8613 They're very similar to the Bradleys, also similar to Berg wheels. But I haven't found any exactly the same yet. I'll definitely make a video on restoring them... should be fun!
This is, by far, the best wheel painting video on RUclips.
I’ve watched hundreds, and while there are lots of great videos, this one is in depth yet extremely simplistic. Your narration and explanation sounds like it was professionally produced. Well done and the wheels look like new! I also enjoyed your reaction when your son made his cameo! 😂
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i fully agree. learn from eachother. greetings from belgium
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Absolutely. Simplistic. In detail. And you narrate so fluently. No fumbling. No repeating or boring us with unnecessary info. Even when yor son walked in you never spend a whole 10mins on him, ack owledge his presence n then got on with the job. Very professional. I'm a subscriber. Happy one too
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I’m just an old lady that has more time than money, you’ve inspired me. I’m gonna give it a go, nothing to lose. Thank you.
You’re a classy lady
This is exactly what DIY content should look like. No expensive tools. No difficult processes. This man not only gives clear and concise instruction but could very well be the hero we all needed to save our stock ish builds. Is it the "right" way probably not. Is it the "best" way again probably not. Is it something that every single person that watches this video is capable of doing in a lasting and good looking way if they take their time; abso(expletive)lutely. This is great. I wish I would have had the motivation to figure this out or the information to solve this problem years ago. 99% of us are doing 1 of 2 things. Living with the problem or replacing the wheels. I have lived in both scenarios.
Thanks to 6th Gear Garage keep it up brother. You have my attention.
Thank you for the encouraging words! That was my goal- to show what is possible in an ordinary garage, on a budget. Thanks for watching. I just finished the center caps the other day and will have that video up next week.
@6thGearGarage to be fair you had a buddy sand blast the rims for beer. How much would that cost for people without the tools and without the friends? Not criticizing, just asking.
Obviously DIY mean DUDE IT YOURSELF, seeing as sand blaster dude got involved 😂
@@dirtyhobo4252it’s a service that’s available to those that can accommodate it into their process. Otherwise, OBVIOUSLY, there are alternate methods.
Great video!!! Better part of 20 years ago I worked for an aircraft component overhaul facility that did wheels, brakes, and landing gear. That summer I worked the paint shop and learned a lot of the basic rules you mentioned. I did mostly aircraft wheels and an awesome trick I'd like to share is... Buy a cheap "lazy Susan" which is a circular set of bearings and cut some plywood into circles a few inches larger than the wheels. Install the lazy Susan on the bottom. Now you have a ideal "base" to put the wheel on!!! Spray can in one hand, and turning the wheel with the other. You can now spray continuously without stopping and it will cut your spray time immensely!!! Another good tip: When your finger gets tired, I simply swap to using my thumb!!! I have found that I have similar "dexterity" and that thumb is way stronger than my index finger. Years later I started doing my own car wheels. I bought my own (old) commercial sandblast cabinet (2x4x4 dual entry), an old industrial air compressor, and I bet I have now refinished roughly 25 to 30 wheels over the course of the past 8 years now. It's a super fun hobby and very rewarding! My next step is getting into a set of HVLP spray guns like I used to use in that actual paint booth all those years ago...
Now the lazy Susan idea in genius!!
Love the lazy-susan idea. Practice with the thumb is paramount, the added strength of that digit could result in over-sprays.
Always just made a mount for them, but yeah spinning the wheels with either a lazy Susan or something homemade will help a lot if you restore wheels as a hobby or professionally.
A $20 spray gun works just fine for a while, the paint is the deciding factor, but engine enamel works well too. Clear coat is necessary in my opinion.
I currently work on aircraft wheels as well. We also use the lazy susan. The sandblasting machine gave me tuberculosis. 😂
They look awesome! Well done. I have painted many wheels in the last 40 years, but never put as much effort as you have here. You have taught this old dog some new tricks to utilize when I tackle the next set! Thanks!
Using the paint cap from the spray can to clean the brushes is a high IQ move. Thanks for sharing
You bet!
I painted for about 36 years. The self etching primer is an acid and is not made to be sprayed to cover. One light coat is all you need. If you need to cover things up like scratches or plastic filler you will need to use a regular primer like a lacquer primer or a 2k primer for example.
He used an etching primer afterwards to fill the imperfections.
@@hustleeveryday6582 the point is, that the acid primer doesn't need to be that thick. That's all.
Well done! The rims look better than some I have seen that were refinished by so called "professional" wheel refinishers.
I like how you did your homework on testing the clearcoat that helps alot. I do appreciate how you describe what your doing for the diy at home people, very good job.
The brush on black paint i though was a good touch considering im about to do that to my truck wheels.
Keep up the good work and I can't wait to see your next video.
Thanks Terry
Your wheels look fantastic. Don't be so hard on yourself 😊
😊 thank you
Thanks for the humor, man. Good to have a laughter after a long day of work.
They look absolutely fantastic on the vehicle man. What a difference! I don't know if I would say "professional results" with the scalloped edge insets, but who cares. They made the truck look great.
Man did I find the right channel. You’re doing it right my guy. Highly appreciative of the knowledge you’re sharing
I appreciate that!
Love it when skilled people share theirs on here, whether they were trained or have learnt themselves by trial & error. It's very refreshing to learn or even gain the confidence do do a job yourself, knowing you can possibly do it, but need that little extra support, without having to fork out mega bugs to have it done for you.
Thank you for your perfectly narrated & videoed step by step honest, real, informative video. It must of been good to keep me watching for nearly an hour Lol.
Cute kid, future helper...
Nice one 🙂
This is why I love RUclips.
I lived in NY for 60yrs, I feel your pain! Nice job restoring the wheels. Good tip with the spray can top for cleaning brushes
You are your worse critic; I think you did a phenomenal job young man. Very nice-looking wheels and center caps, and they look great on your truck. I absolutely liked watching you work. Thank you for making this video for all of us to see.
I appreciate that! Thanks!
Wheels came out looking great. I hope they last a while. Duplicolor isn't known for holding up to the elements for very long, especially on something that takes a beating like wheels. If I went through all that work I would have used a good urethane base coat and a 2k clear coat like the factory. Both are available in rattle cans too.
I would have done a 2k clear, but urethane shouldn't be applied over enamel, or it can cause the paint to lift. I will use 2k on other wheels in the future where I don't use any enamel paint.
@@6thGearGarage Not true. I restore motorcycles. Spraymax 2K works great over enamel. I use it clear coat Rustoleum all the time.
@@2ndborn186 Good to know, thanks!!!
He has some Bob Ross vibes.
The Bob Ross of wheel restauration...
Everyone can follow, and it is extremely relaxing.
Also he is doing a proper job!
The Bob Ross of wheel restoration - Thanks, I love it!
Loved how much attention was paid to detail despite it being a garage project. Nice finish.
Thanks!
I watched your entire video. Those rooms came out really good.!!! Give me a good idea for my thank you.
Those little lines that you see on your wheels from the lathe are what is called tooling marks. It's where the cutting tool made it's path during the machining process.
He said that
If you use a high velocity urethane spray it won't dull the reflective shine on piece your painting..same thing they use on guitars for a very high Sheen..
The only issue was that chrome paint was an enamel, and urethanes can cause enamels to lift. I'll have to find something reflective like that in a lacquer or urethane to be able to put urethane over top. I'd prefer urethane over enamel any day.
@@6thGearGarage clear epoxy flood coat?
I'm not an automotive painter just a dumb commercial painter but your spray technique is spot on. like you said do the crevices first then the easy. looks great keep it up
I love the look of those rims, you've done a great job man.
Fantastic video, very complete. Probably the best I've seen in years due to the amount of important detail you included. You have a talent for teaching and laying things out clearly. Well, done.
Thank you!!!
Looks really good! Gonna try it myself. For what it’s worth, I would like to see a paint job with an air compressor. Would the process be much different if the wheels were on the vehicle?
You'd really be better off removing them for painting to avoid overspray on the brakes, plus doing all that work on the dusty ground where you'll be hunched over isn't worth the time it takes to remove the wheels. You don't have to dismount the tires, you could mask those off.
If you want a professional job take the wheels off and follow this video.
I find Spray cans much easier than a compressor.
I’d only consider leaving wheels on if you don’t care about the finish and are putting hubcaps on.
The hand polished wheels are gorgeous and you should be proud of that work! Very handy video!
Thank you!
those wheels look really good. In my experience those can paints get scratched so easily, so much work just to see them scratch rather quickly.
Thanks... I would have used a 2k clear, but I read that it could cause the paint to lift when sprayed over enamels.
I just used some rustoleum matte clear on my truck's wheels holding up even after 2 years. It's all in the prep. Also let them cure for 2 weeks. Had another set of wheels at the time.
A great way to keep the wheels from scratching or lifting due to the clear coat issue, Use a professional grade ceramic coating for the wheel faces !!!! Would have a 10h hardness and last for a good 3 to 5 years . Also helps protect from brake dust and environmental fallout!
@@6thGearGarage yes, don't EVER 2k with enamel
@@6thGearGarage - Not if you apply the clear right after spraying the enamel.
Thanks for your comprehensive video. It is really helpful to see what works and what doesn’t and why. Great video!
Thanks for watching!
Removing rust... without getting tired.
A small container with molasses. Drop the wheel inside. Put a cover on the container. Wait 2 weeks. Take out the wheel. Rinse with water. And voilà. No rubbing. No more rust.
Excellent! I've done it using electrolysis as well and will have a future video on that process.
That is a lot of molasses, to cover a rim. And two weeks? That's ten weeks to do five rims, or quite a bit more molasses and several containers. And the molasses is basically useless for anything else afterwards. I suppose if you do rims a lot, and you have room to keep tubs or drums of molasses stored, it would be okay.
The tire shop damage really really upset me after so much progress brother they all of the franchise type tire shops have caused damages like this to mine and costs me at least 80 bucks as usally had multiple sets of tires i would need swapped over , so i bought a tire machine and havent had a scratch or chip sence , thank you for all the valuable nowlege about the chemical mixes and primer setup and prep 😊
I definitely choose my shops more carefully now.
I have (4) of almost the same style wheels except they're the spiral teardrop type. They've never been in salty weather since I live in the west coast. I was thinking of selling them as is and getting a few bucks for them but your tutorial makes me want to redo them.
They're the 6 lug that came from my pre 2000 Toyota Tacoma and the only reason I had to replace them was because Discount Tire supposedly "doesn't carry" the Michelin Defender series tire in that size so I had to go a little bigger.
Personally, I think they were just upwelling me which I bought into because my wheels were looking very worn and I wanted new ones anyway (got $170 back in rebates though).
Though I highly doubt I'll be able to get the high quality results like you got, I'd like to know about how much you think I should charge for them once they're done.
Thanks in advance for the feedback, and great tutorial man.
Hey, I'm trying to picture the wheels you have and the only 6 lug ones I can picture are the tri-claw wheels that are a split 3-spoke design. Are yours aftermarket?
Shouldve ditch that etch primer as its porus & old school, epoxy primer provides a better bite & protective barrier right on the ally
Right on the ally?
Tchaikovsky 1812 Overture. Never thought I’d hear that in a rim restoration video. Happy birthday America. Nice video.
This has to be the longest spray paint video I've ever watched, all the way through. And that, sir, is a high complement. Well done, and so sorry about the damage the tire counters did to your rims, from a guy who used to work mounting tires from 12" car tires all the way up to big rigs, farm tractors, and earth moving machinery. There really is no excuse for it other than laziness and apathy. Done correctly, the machinery used for mounting those tires should never damage the rims or even a spray painted finish.
BTW, in the future, when testing a new method, like brushing on the recessed black sections, start with the designated spare like you had in this set. The lessons learned on the first wheel can then be carried over to the mounted wheels. (Just a thought.)
Nice looking wheels, and great video. Well done.
This is definitely the way to go. Forget about harsh, toxic, carcinogenic chemicals that will consume a ton of time and effort and will not even produce good results. Don't ask me how I know.... Great video edition.
Great choice of music!
Very nice job! Not sure I would have that kind of patients for detailing like you do!
To be honest, I wouldn't do it again! Next time I'll just have them powder coated in all one color.
I usually have a small cup with thinners in and drop all the paint nozzles in to keep them from blocking up
Maybe try that
Just use thinners not turps based it cleans so much better
You needed to do a guide coat when sanding the filler and then you would see all imperfections
They do look good
Scratches ar,e always a problem with painted wheels
Very helpful tips. I've done one set and now through trial and error I can get much better results thanks to your video. I like the filler primer to fill imperfections. You can use a glaze putty on road rash dings that won't shrink too. Thanks 👍
I was fully with you until you took them to be sandblasted. That's not an "at home" fix my dude. Get your sandpaper or a wire brush out!
If your wheels are as bad as mine, be prepared to have them sandblasted to start with. You could spend a few days with sand paper, but it makes sense to have them sand blasted to save time and get in all the recessed areas.
Might as well just get them powder coated at that point. Most powder coat places do blasting too.
That was my thoughts exactly! I don't happen to have a sandblasting machine at home. Getting wheels sandblasted - £30 a wheel. Getting wheels totally refurbed - £60 a wheel.
@@dougiemiller5030doing it yourself and developing a skill, priceless.
if this is a business of yours, you need to invest in dry ice.
Nice job! A little hint, before you last down the last clear, and your black edges are a little rough, you can even them all out by using a small piece of Scotchbrite, taped to a paint stir stick and carefully and lightly sand with the edge. The flat stir stick will keep the sanding only to the stop sliver surface thus removing just any black that breaks the edge. Then clean up dust and clear coat.
That’s a great idea… thanks!
Oof, those scratches from the mounting machine must've hurt you deep down, I know I would've felt it. Gracious of you to deal with it so easily. Even with great care, mistakes like that can happen, but with such large sidewalls it is a bit unexcusable.
Yeah I was bummed, but I guess it happens. I'm glad they weren't expensive aftermarket wheels.
It always confused me how untrained most tire changers are at some places. One that had a 1/4 inch gouge , and a rash half way around, I welded over the lip , and on one of the spokes, on a set of wheels that were excessively dinged up from untrained dipstick. It was an oddball style that was discontinued. So I couldn't find a match to it. After way to much time grinding filing sanding and polishing, they were nice enough nobody ever noticed.
@@ryurc3033 You need a youtube channel - I'd love to see your repair process!
@@6thGearGarage as much as I would like to, it always takes so much longer to film and show what I'm building. I DO much better than I teach, if you get what I'm saying. But I'm the guy that can change out a motor faster than any book says it's possible, or fab anything under the sun. I just lack the clientele for the hot rods and cool stuff. And have to do things like swapping fuel pumps on crappy 96 dodge, or water pump on a cobalt......ugh....
@@ryurc3033 I hear you... there are some things I don’t bother to film because I need to work fast and listen to the radio (can’t have copyrighted music in videos)
I used Eagle One All Wheel & Tire Cleaner on my old wheels that looked a lot like yours and it got a ton of the years of dirt and grime off the wheels, it did a lot better than I was expecting.
Should paint Toyota in red
That New England salt has destroyed my IS250 wheels so this video really helps with tips and tricks for repairing corroded and curb rashed wheel surfaces. Thanks!
fantastic ill be sending you my old-school hot rod mags to fix up for me great job
Nicely done!!! Looks awesome dude 🤙🏻 glad I could help ya get em done quicker!
An excellent tutorial . You have unbelievable patience . You did an excellent job . Well done .
Thank you!
Note to self: Don't buy cars from Detroit Michigan. Got it.
100%
i used to have a 96' LandCruiser with those wheels and the machine finish had that same kind of corrosion. Never got around to making them nicey nice but enjoyed the truck when we had it. Great job you did refinishing them
Thanks!
Found this extremely informative, cant wait to do my wheels and look forward to seeing more content. Thanks from here in the uk
I’m about to do my rims. How many cans of primer/paint/clear should I buy doing 5 rims total. Thank you for a great video.
Thanks! For the 5 wheels, I probably used about 2.5 cans of the Self Etch primer, 1-2 of the filler, 1 of the sealer, 2 of the DC Silver, 2 of the VHT Silver, and 5-6 cans of clear total.
Damn bro. That's a helluva job you did there. 👏
Good stuff. If I have to stop painting an enamel
paint with a brush before I finish the job I put the brush in a sealed plastic bag and pop it in the fridge or the freezer.
That's a good idea!
Thanks, best wheel restoration video on RUclips;
First and formost props on a great vid and matching finish results. I did want to enlighten on the spray volume issue with the color on the first wheel, if you had used a button/nozzle out of another color can instead of the prep spray the volume wouldve been the same. The amount of clogged cans I run into is annoying. I rattle can enough to find it neccessary to keep little bags of clean buttons and with the new style cans I've been able to reduce that space since the nozzle in the button is removable. Not sure if anyone else has said any or all of what I just shared but either way, keep up the quality work! It's all in the prep! Headed over to check out your Tonka resto now! 🍻
Thanks for the advice! That would have made this much easier with the proper nozzle.
The amount of work you did was well worth it.
Looks real good.
I need to refinish the wheels on my XJS, thanks for the help and inspiration.
You're welcome!! Best of luck!
Just use phorphouous acid for metal... Removes rust and cleans it... Also the stuff you are using will likely etch your concrete FYI
Just wanted to say thank you. You do a great job explaining things.
like the paint demo on various product and the topper is the classical music in the background:)
Thanks, I have had many compliments on the music choice. I now use classical in all my long how-to videos.
Hard to get copywrite claims on music that was composed long before copywrite was ever a thing. 😁
I'm just about to take on clearning and painting some motorcycle wheels and can't powder coat them myself, so am going to follow your steps.
Thanks for sharing so much detail.
I really liked yor video. Best part is that you were honest n showed off all yor mistakes. And you have a damn fine camera too. Good on you. Terrance @ South Africa
Thanks so much! I gotta be honest, my camera is an old iPhone 6s!
@@6thGearGarage thanks for taking the time to reply bud
@@6thGearGarage well your video made the iPhone 6 look great 👍 👌 😀
Pitted and erosion definitely benefits from sand blasting. This just change my mind on the single cab. Sand Blast, then DIY. TIME IS ALSO $$$❤
100%!
Great job the shop I worked in for about a year (I was prep guy😭)we blow it off first and then the last thing we do just before we paint is to use the tack cloth just in case anything from the blow nozzle stirs up in the air👍🤠🇺🇸
Good idea... thanks!!
Thank you very much for the thorough step by step. You have high skill and wishing you the best.
Thank you
Rudy
wow the ending is great . You wont see the rougher parts when you are driving -so cool
They look great man you did a fantastic job super overkill just like I do it I figured tire machine will get some nicks they make it look fabulosa
I am more than impressed! That was a lot of work but the results are well worth it. You must have saved hundreds of dollars by doing this. Maybe more! An outstanding video by far!
I love the realization that you covered your floor with primer
Yeah, it's all worn off after a year. I'm still putting paper down next time!
By far the best video I've found. And just so happens I'm using the same colors. Much appreciated
Such a great video. Probably watch it 2 more times. Just picked up a set of 5 FJ80 wheels. I’m want to paint them black with gold accents on wheels and caps.
I haven't seen that done before, That will look good!
Thank you I appreciate videos like this not the wasting time one learning something new comes in handy in the future
What you did to your Civic wheels, I did to my 03 S10 ZQ8 wheels many years ago, I also painted the inset Black with clear because I left the inset with the stock texture. Amazing looking but I feel ya on the length of time and hours in it. I did mine while my truck was my daily driver. So I had one great looking wheel one month, 2 great looking wheels the next month and so on. Took a long time but was worth it
I just finished polishing an aftermarket wheel, just like I did with those civic wheels. ruclips.net/video/6oEFiSZDrKU/видео.html These were definitely more work though and now I have 3 more to go... I feel your pain!
I knew the chips was coming from the tire shop. I painted some wheels black and of course got a few nicks when we got new tires. some pros and cons to doing this with tires on already or not. great vod
Man, what odyssey, well done, lots of hard work put right there!
Thanks!
You’re so Right they do look good with just primer !
Great video to watch for a DIY. At the end of the video you applied wax. Maybe ceramic coating would be a better choice? But still a great video to watch if you ask me. 👍🏼
I had never used ceramic coating at the time of this video, but you're right, it would have been the ideal choice.
Try Kleen-strip concrete and metal prep after using paint remover to remove the clear coat.
Contains phosphoric acid. $16 fir a gallon at Home Depot.
I also took the bottom off of a reclining chair to set my wheels on for painting so I can spin the while painting so I don’t have to do 15 laps around the wheels while painting .
You do an EXCELLENT JOB!
you have much more patience then me.
You are a very good teacher
Thanks for the Kleen Strip Advice! The chair bottom too.. I had to stop a couple of times because I was getting dizzy!
I'm from the east coast of Canada I feel your pain now I'm out west as a dryer winter but the same problem is here as well but it's not as bad but my 20-in rims on my truck they need to clean up
The tyre shop damaging the wheels is completely unacceptable. It boggles the mind that there still are places that can't mount a tyre without ruining the rim. Especially when rims now a days are expensive as hell.
Pure innovative genius. That is an awesome high-value low-cost way to have beautiful results. Thanks so much for sharing. Great Channel!
Thanks for watching!
Wow! What a detailed and informative video. A lot of really great tips and tricks that I will be employing in my wheel repaint. Thanks so much!
very nice work, very thorough..I believe the official term is 'Diamond Cut' wheels...19:15 cute little dude...and his Tonka is epic
Good video. Very informative.
But acid down the storm water drain?
They look great though
I figured the cleaner was greatly diluted by that point because of all of the water I used. Thanks for watching!
Wow, the work is crazy impressive. When I get over the shock I plan to do the rims on my 93' Miata. Thanks for the tutorial.
These look great! Thanks for the in depth video and all tips/misshaps!
6:12 for aluminum, you should actually use an iron oxide primer. The coating will last a lot longer.
Thanks for that tip!
Those look incredible. Lots of positive notes but mainly that paint brush cleaning hack. 10/10 😎
Thanks a ton!
I like how u showed ur imperfections and flaws great video definitely a keeper nice 👍
I’m curious ware did you buy wheel brute what store?? I’d like to buy and do my aluminum rims they look like the ones you bought
Looks like it's on sale right now: amzn.to/3FjHz26
Hey sorry for the mis spelling this damn phone does what it wants to after I spelled it write the first time
Job well done sir, I learned a lot from you.....ricky from the Philippines
Great video. Aluminum wheels corrode in the southwest also. I have some 98 Tacoma wheels that have damaged clear from the sun resulting in surface corrosion due to me being lazy not fixing them before corrosion set in. They do not have the salt ingress random paths you show, but there is a general corrosion. I am considering spraying them non-metallic black after sand or bead blasting them. I like your brush technique for the insets. I may paint the Toyota logo in the plastic caps with a brush and silver to pop. The originals are silver with a black logo so it might be a nice accent to match the chrome accents on the black truck.
For the road rash or deep pits or gouges, you can use a metallized filler. Bondo has a metal reinforced filler #90451. There are other brands out there, but the Bondo version can be found at most auto part stores. After prep with 80 grit sand paper or blasting and cleaning, you mix both parts, spread the first coat thin with strong pressure to push the filler into the deep areas, then right after go over with a thicker swipe(s) to fill up. After it hardens you can block sand like you did with the filler to level and smooth the surface. You can go with 180 then 320 grit or what works for you. I would follow with the high build primer after that to fill in any 180 grit scratches you may not have refined with the 320, plus filler needs primer before color. Someone below mentioned 2 part glazing putty, which is good for smaller pits, but not as deep of fill areas as the road rash plus you can color coat over small areas of glazing putty. Make sure to use the 2 part putty since it is better than the 1 part, which may shrink back leaving a slight depression after it fully dries. 2K or 2 part clear is a more durable product than the 1 part clear as the same person mentioned. The down side is 2K aerosol cans are expensive.
Thanks for the heads up on the #90451. I had some 2k clear that I was planning on spraying with a spray gun, but ended up sticking with enamel clear after reading that 2k clear might not bond/cure correctly over enamel paint.
@@6thGearGarageI forgot to mention there are direct to metal (DTM) 2K clearcoats that can be sprayed over bare metal for the diamond cut wheels. I have seen videos showing how the surfaces are repaired by grinding away metal with coarse grit DA paper followed by refining grits up to extremely fine to get the shine. The DTM clear is sprayed over the bare metal and the typically black painted areas. I have one I need to repair, but haven't focused on dedicating the time to be slow and methodical because I have never done the diamond cut repair. There is a limit to how much you can grind away before losing the inset shape compared to the other wheels so the repairable damage may be limited.
@@michaelb4060 Well that's a game changer. I wanted to polish them to begin with but bare aluminum won't survive through a winter around here. Glad to know that such a 2k clearcoat exists, thanks!
Great to see all the steps you went through. What worked. And what didn’t work. Fantastic video!
Thanks for watching!
I just bought a set of 78 280z wheels for my car for super cheap that's definitely seen better days, and have been wondering how to go about restoring them since I want the sliver with black inserts and this video has been a godsend for that. I've been trying to figure out how to do the inserts black because I HATE masking (it takes way too long) but your solution seems so much easier without much risk.
Now, wish me luck as I set off on my endeavor...
I hate masking as well, especially on rounded areas. The black paint has held up great, I would do it again. However the silver paint is having some issues: ruclips.net/video/QxrDm90GEVA/видео.html
Well done. Excellent instructional video, mistakes and all.
Thank you kindly!
Dude you're crazily underrated wheres your 10m subs that you deserve
Thanks! It's growing slow and steady!
First what rims are on your 80 in the background? Bradley’s?
Second. Great video with tons of detail. Thanks. Can’t wait to use your method on my next rim project.
Thanks! I still haven’t figured out what the 2-pc wheels are. There are some close ups of them at the end of the video.
I think they are Bradley IX wheels. Bradley makes a great off road wheel popular in Japan.
Great wheels. Check out Bradley 4x4. I think the IX are discontinued but certainly look like the same wheel. My JDM cruiser came over with Bradley Vs on it. Looking forward to the video when you clean those up.
@@michaelturner8613 They're very similar to the Bradleys, also similar to Berg wheels. But I haven't found any exactly the same yet. I'll definitely make a video on restoring them... should be fun!
Great DIY video. How soon after clear coat could I wax or put a paste protective coat on? Thanks so much
I waited a little over a week, but the wheels were sitting in a hot garage. If stored indoors, I would wait a couple of weeks.