Amsoil Vs Supertech Engine Oils Which One Should You Be Using?
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
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After many hours of debating and people disagreeing with using Amsoil or Supertech this video goes into a deep dive on the difference between the two.
Why one cost 3x as much as the other and is the other one so cheap you risk ruining your engine as the savings of a few bucks?
Well, let's look at the data and come up with real world numbers from an independent oil analysis company. The Petroleum Quality Institute of America.
pqia.org/
PQIA is an independent research organization that shows results of oils and other chemicals used in automobiles and heavy-duty trucks. Which is VERY VERY Important when an oil company makes a claim are they using their own research methods or using independents.
Point being if an oil company makes a claim make sure they can back it up with independent research and make sure they can give the name of where the study or research was conducted otherwise it could just be based on biased opinion of the company.
Enjoy the video!
God Bless
Eric
fix your car
As a 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder any good Synthetic oil and filter changed every 5k miles will exceed your engine needs!!
You must think all synthetics are the same, not so, There are over 10 different base stocks that the oil can be made from. And all commercial grade oils aka top tier synthetics are made from a PAO base. Which is a much larger word I can't spell. But it sounds like this: Polly all ofalin aka PAO. Amsoil is made from that base.
@@issacbourne5111 He's right in that all full synthetics are better than any group 2 oil. Yes, Amsoil Signature is top tier, I have not been able to confirm it is 100% synthetic based on it's SDS. I've seen 3 brands that are labeled 100% synthetic, even though the additive packages are not superior, Motul, Torco SR-1 and Idemitsu. From the tests I've seen, Amsoil is still #1, Redline, then Pennzoil Ultra. Redlines SDS indicates it could be up to 60% PAO/esters. Only real advantage to group 4 is better high temperature stability. Watching for a high number in the cSt viscosity @100 will tell you how well it handles high temps in it's grade. Also, if I recall, Amsoil wouldn't pay for some of the certifications and many dealers won't warranty Amsoil. I'm have been trying to figure out how a 0w20 is supposed to handle higher than 35c climates when I am not seeing any viscosity improvements in the additive packages from an oil analysis. So far, I'm convinced Redline is the best choice when you are using that EPA, Cafe crap 0w20 for 1 more mpg in hot climates.
@@issacbourne5111Again it doesn't matter if you are changing it at 5k miles!! Apparently you drank the Amsoil Kool aid:)
@@owenhill-vf7koDon’t you just love when people don’t read what you actually stated? 😂
Amsoil you pay for a higher grade better performing base that is a true synthetic combined with the best additive package available. It will protect better and hold up longer before needing replaced,.. period. Do you need the extra performance/ capabilities? For you to decide.
I think it depends on the vehicle. I have noticed an improvement using Amsoil in winter albeit at 15 below. I’ve also seen a performance gain in a performance engine I have. Beyond that though? I’ve only heard it quiet down an engine and make it run a little less rough.
I also believe you touched upon a subject that needs more explaining. In my eyes you would be better off running 0W20 Costco Kirkland Oil and changing it out yourself with a brand new filter every 90 days regardless of mileage than use Amsoil once a year. As long as you know how to use your engines flood mode or can prefill the oil filter that matters more.
The sad truth of most engine oils is their additive package starts to break down with fuel dilution around 1800-2100 miles. It doesn’t mean they won’t lubricate but it means they no longer clean or handle fuel in the oil or dirt nearly as well.
The advantage of Amsoil or something like HPL is they use a higher grade of additive that is effective for longer against contamination. So if your engine is running rich and dumping too much fuel in due to short trips or excess idling Amsoil would offer more protection especially in winter if you don’t want to change your oil in the middle of winter.
Otherwise I think you’d be better off changing your oil 4 times a year with Kirkland or Supertech, using a decent filter like a Fram Synthetic Endurance and do that. Just recycle your oil and good to go.
In a vehicle I seldom drive and do haul heavy loads of soil, compost, and dirt I do use Amsoil’s Z-Rod oil due to their anti-rust additives and the proper zinc protection for a flat tappet engine. That’s more due to the fact of modern oils no longer being suitable for a Toyota 22RE that is used for hauling. Mileage is not an issue but time and storage and wear protection is. I end up with 2-3 times the metal wear out of Supertech due to a lack of ZDDP and corrosive inhibitors.
On my daily driver I am better off changing more frequently with a less expensive oil however. I hope this frames things a bit better. I think like anything certain engines and certain usage are going to frame how useful the oil is. In a well maintained Toyota Corolla made in 2010’s though you would be money ahead to do more frequent changes correctly than doing the Amsoil in my eyes. If you have a performance vehicle, an older vehicle pre-1994 due to zddp changes, or a vehicle facing some extremes you can make an argument for the Amsoil. Fuel is the main enemy at the end of the day and let’s face it the average person doesn’t change their oil at the proper mileage or proper amount of time 6 months and 4,000 miles(I live in the North with 2-5 feet of snow on the ground).
As for what I do? Amsoil is amazing for idling and ignoring winter oil changes if you diy it and don’t have a garage. I’ve had stripped oil filter housing and oil pan threads due to lube places or dealers, you want it done right do it yourself. However, it is not fun if you have 2 inches of ice on your car in -10F weather and road salt everywhere to do an oil change. Usually November-March here can be solid snow and non-stop freezing temps. So Amsoil in the winter and Supertech in the Spring and Summer. Amsoil in October before the snow falls to handle the idling and short winter horrifyingly awful trips, the car warms up better with it. I dump the Amsoil come March or April, change it with a cheaper oil, then change it again in 90 days, and change it back to Amsoil before the winter flies and it works for me. I don’t put a lot of miles on a rig but it takes time to unfog your windows and driving 25-35 due to icy conditions is hard on a vehicle. Spring, summer, and fall not so much and it’s easier to take long trips on mountain roads.
I hope my personal experience helps frame it better and it all depends on an individual and their circumstances. If I had a reliable place I could take my oil, filter, and crush washer and change it out properly I would probably use Supertech or Kirkland. No garage to do oil changes and just a driveway in winter, and no one around I trust to do a proper oil change without costing thousands to potentially a new engine. Thrice it has happened to mr (first time cost a new oil pan, second the oil pan was not removable and they spent 14 hours fixing it and thar cost me a mint, most recently a specialist and $2200+ in the early 2010’s and probably triple if not more now for a damaged oil filter threads from crossing them incorrectly. I got lucky I didn’t need a new engine! Since then I started doing it myself and zero issues.
In winter time avoid another catastrophic lube technician or mechanic screwing up my oil filter housing or oil plug threads I opt for the high end synthetic. For the low, low, cost of someone else changing my oil I buy 6 quarts of Amsoil/A Wix Air Filter/Fram Synthetic Endurance Oil Filter prior to the snow flying.
Thanks for sharing your experience . I personally experience with the dealership did to my 2021 tundra when they changed the oil they didn’t put the washer back on so when I went to change it that’s when I noticed it. It was dripping a little bit. I did check the oil the level was good. Then another dealership when they changed the oil in our RAV they didn’t put washer onto the oil plug, but I noticed inside the threads when I took it out. They put some blue dope in there. That’s not good getting into the oil pan. And I’ve talked to other coworkers they’ve had similar experiences. They never reinstalled the pan correctly missing bolts and now you fast-forward and I read these comments. It’s not just us having these bad experiences you want it done right you’re gonna have to do it yourself.
@user-vh9hs4qe7r The blue on the threads would be medium loctite. REALLY bad stuff to be in where motor oil circulates.
I have used Amsoil in my turboed Audis since 2006, they've all been tuned and I run the absolute shit out of them and have never had a mechanical issue. I change the oil as per the manufacturer's recommendation every 15,000km. That's all I need to know. Amsoil for life for this guy.
Amsoil is top tier, just be wary of using under warranty...
@@lonniebeal6032 Why?
I'm old school and will always change my oil at 3,000 miles no matter what oil I'm using. In my 2004 Monte Carlo SS (non-supercharged) I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. I'm using the High Mileage one now since the engine has 164k miles on it and it runs so smooth you can barely tell it's running at idle plus it still has really really good oil pressure.
Gee 3k. If you have the money great. But you can easily go 5k on Mobil 1. I know a guy that works at BP. He told me don't buy the hype, conventional oil can go to 5k. And all no matter what brand any dexos licensed oil 7500. But, I still change dexos licensed oil at 5k. Happy motoring 😊
@@leegmc1985 Sometimes I go to 3500 if I'm busy but it takes me about 5 months to put 3k miles on my car. It costs me about $30 for oil and filter so changing my oil every 5 to 6 months is cheap.
I also have a 2004 Monte Carlo SS Non-Supercharged 3800. I also change the oil in it every 3K miles with mobil 1 full synthetic high mileage 5W-30. It just hit 275K and runs fantastic. Just changed the oil today.
Long Live The 3800 🤘🏼
@@pjstartv6798 FYI,Lake Speed jr. just tested several Mobil 1 oils and found they are made with a low quality Viscosity Index Improver that breaks down quickly even within 1,000 miles and causes the oil to lose grade and drop down to the next viscosity level.
I use Toyota, Super-Tech and any full synthetic on sale from the big brands (Pennzoil, Mobil1, etc.). 217,000 miles and not burning any oil so far. My Accord was burning a little bit at 190k, my Mazda burns a little bit at 85k but I tend to keep my oil 5-10K miles, so I can understand oils breaking down a little bit. I use 10-20k oil.
Just to let you know , that -30 Celsius is about -22 Fahrenheit, and this temperature is very common in northern States.
And more common in Canadian Winter's too.
🥶
I switched from mobile 1 to super tech several years ago. No complaints. Subscribed also. Jesus Christ is Lord and Savior.
Amen
Yeshua Hamashiach✝️✡️❤️
why bring some deity into this?
@@randellgribben9772 You mean mythology?
@@TJW68 science can only prove the physical world, it cannot prove or disprove the immaterial world. And without signs being able to do that they cannot prove or disprove God. So I'd like to know how you know this and where is your Nobel Prize for proving it? Because you would be solving the biggest argument in the world, and answering biggest question in the world. Your claim to know it's mythology would be worthy of the Nobel Prize.
So if you can go win that Nobel Prize I'll convert to atheism. And what will you do if you can't prove that it's all mythology? Or maybe are you afraid of reality?
Have you seen PF Farmers test? Amsoil 1st, Red Line 2nd, Penzoil Ultra Plantium 3rd. Mobile 1 way down on scale. I think super tech was tested too. Only put Amsoil in my Jeep all holes. Runs great!
Amsoil oils are notorious for poor flow rates at extreme cold temperatures.
Not good.
@@sameold5050 just the opposite
Mobil 1 extended performance and Chevron gas is a great combo to keep engines run for a long time!
The Amsoil SS stopped the oil burning in my 2014 Camry. I had tried a few other oils previously including Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and nothing performed like the Amsoil. I use it in all my vehicles now and it’s about $11 a quart with the membership
The Amsoil price isn’t due to marketing as you stated. Amsoil Signature is made from group 4 & 5 synthetics. Super tech is made from petroleum based group 3 synthetics which is much cheaper to produce. Red Line oil is from group 4 & 5 and is higher priced and no one says it’s from marketing. Royal Purple and Liquid Moly are high priced as well.
TRUE
Yeah, i'm sure their pyramid scheme sales structure has nothing to do with it...
Actually, the only real group 4/5 oils say 100% synthetic on them. Amsoil has nothing on paper to indicate it's a group 4, Redlines SDS states up to 60% can be PAO/esters. Group 3 are hydro-cracked petroleum base. Pennzoil Platinum series are Natural Gas converted to clear, clean petroleum base. Motul, Torco SR-1 and Idemitsu state they are 100% on them, but the additive package doesn't bring them up to compete with Amsoil and Redline.
@@lonniebeal6032 I just looked at the msds for Amsoil Signature series and for Motul 300v and Amsoil said “1-decene, which is what group 4 polyalphaoelefin is made from and also listed Esters and didn’t list hydrogenated heavy paraffinic oils. So at least Signature Series is group 4 & 5. Other Amsoil oils do have group 3; such as the Zrod oils, but they still state 100% synthetic, so I guess Amsoil has accepted that group 3 is a synthetic. 🤔Motul said hydrogenated petroleum as well as solvent refined petroleum.
Actually supertech oil is group 4.
That PQIA database is awesome.
The additive pack on the Super tech with the lower calcium is great for my 3.5 Ecoboost.
Can't see spending $15 a quart for oil I'm gonna change about every 3500 miles or so.
Down here in Southern New Mexico don't have to worry much about the cold pour spec.
Amsoil stopped the small amount of oil burning in my 2013 Honda accord 2.4L (1/2qt every 3k). Mobil one was the worse for my accord. Valvoline extended life was good too but not as good as amsoil. I never had to top off my car with oil while using amsoil every 5K mi. Only oils I use nowadays are Amsoil, valvoline or Pennzzoil ultra platinum.
Any experience on castrol I have 2015 crv with oil consumption
Amsoil cleans the crankcase of gasoline engines. Cleaning the carbon buildup out the rings reduces blowby and oil consumption.
Vavoline Restore and Protect engine oil (available in Walmart) does this too.
I noticed your price quote on Amsoil but they have this prefred setup (it could be an added expense at around 16.00 a year) but if you are using Amsoil in the long run it doesn't really matter that much as it drops the price from 15.49 to 11.89. It's still expensive but how it takes care of your cars very well. I saw a small gas savings with it and a mechanic joked after a timing belt job on my car that it was clean enough to eat off of. One thing Amsoil does very well is prevent sludge and keeps the engine very clean. This is important if you want to keep the piston rings from sticking that leads to massive damage to the cyl walls and high oil use. Amsoil isn't the most advertised oil and really doesn't need to be because they learned that the oil speaks for it's self and word of mouth is their advertising which shows just how good their oil really is.
Now that I praised it, now I have one weird issue with it. My Mazda Miata has issues with it.
Miata owners will always complain about the car having a lifter tick when starting that goes away after a bit and it was worse with Amsoil. It could go on ticking for 30 seconds before stopping and I tried Penzoil's top of the line oil and the lifter tick stopped after 3 seconds.
Just why this happens is beyond me but there you are. The Miata just doesn't like Amsoil.
i think its beacuase the penzoil has more zinc in it.
If it's got the current API (SP) rating, and even better, Dexos certified, I don't care what brand it is. If it can carry those two certifications, it will do just fine for pretty much everyone. Just don't go cheap on filters.
I believe in changing your oil every 5000 km an you use a good oil that’s not over priced like a Kendall or Valvoline 5w-30
I use Amsoil in my Air Cooled Harley V-Twins, where head temp is often above 300F, and in my Polaris Rzr that I abuse the heck out of. I plan to use it in my 1st gen Ford EcoBoost 3.5, also, due to the demand the turbos put on the oil and how quickly the cam chain phasers tend to wear. I'll run the $3.60/Qt. SuperTech in both of our naturally aspirated cars, though. Signing up for Amsoil's membership is definitely worth it if you're running it in multiple vehicles, as the signature full synth is only 11.89/qt with free shipping over $100 orders. A kit with 6 quarts of signature full synth and an Amsoil filter for the F150 is $86.14. That's about what a dealership charges for a synth blend oil change.
I live in Sweden and only once did it get down to -40c and that was back in 1974.
You go to Siberia where it can get down to -70c no oil is going to work without putting a fire under the oil pan as the Germans had too do when they went into the USSR 1942.
For me oils are pretty much the same, they do their job so i look at the price tag not the name.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum
I've used Amsoil products for years and it's an excellent oil. I agree that it is overkill and I have since switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum after seeing some very compelling test results from lab analysis and because of the better pricing. To be totally honest though, talking about oils is like talking politics or religion, in the end, people stick to their guns about what oil to use and why.
I’m a penny pinching tight ass and have been one all my life. I’ve used a lot of Walmart Super-tech with apparently great success.my vehicles are always high-mileage purchased used. I’ve tried to do my best when it comes to vehicle maintenance, but often fallen short. I heard about Amsoil year ago, but always assumed it was overpriced. However, recently have had the nagging urge to make a switch. My 2012 GMC just turned 200k. I’m shooting for another 100k. I also use a lot of old power equipment that gets a lot of abuse. I’m ready and able to give Amsoil a go, so time will tell. Great video!
Supertec is petroleum based. Amsoil is 100% synthetic. I use the XL version of Amsoil and change oil twice per year based on the miles we drive. I also plan it out to buy enough oil to get free shipping. For me the peace of mind is worth it. I’ve had oil related engine failure with a past vehicle.
@user-bu4lg7lv1g good to know and appreciate your thoughts on the matter just out of curiosity what had you been driving that had engine issues?
We had a 92 chevy suburban that spun a bearing. Can’t really blame the oil because it was low. That experience pushed me to err on the side of caution. When I compare spending more on oil and changing myself, it’s not really that much different than dealer with poor oil. I also use a filter rated for 20k miles. Both my vehicles end up being changed between 4000-6000 miles doing it every 6 months.
That's interesting. What makes it synthetic if its petroleum based? Sounds like it be semi-synthetic.
That’s just it. Most of the brands that label as full synthetic are blends. Amsoil is 100% synthetic. Mobil one used to be 100% synthetic, but now they label as full synthetic and it’s a blend. Kinda of deceptive advertising if you ask me.
Hate to break it to ya but the Amsoil XL and OE lines are group 3 petroleum blends too. Only the signature series is a true syn.
South Texas with a 3.4L v6 Twin Turbo amsoil signature series it is. Used Amsoil SS on my tundra 5.7v8 she loved it ran so smooth 10k oil changes. might shoot for 7.5k with the 3.4L TT and get it a sample tested.
Walmart does no marketing for their Supertech product line???
Right.
I agree supertech does the job. I live in Canada and used to have a car running propane, often the temps would drop to -30c (-22f) and the car would start with out being plugged in (block heater).
I have used Mobil 1 since the ‘70s, never had any problems. I just switched to Amsoil Signature series, let’s see what happens.
Mobile One was a group 4 back then, the Castrol vs Mobile One case with the NAD caused it to become a group III to compete in pricing. Still, absolutely nothing wrong with any Full Synthetic.
@@lonniebeal6032 The only caveat to cheap oils is not only the base oil, but there are different quality levels of additives as well. Lake said Mobil uses a low quality VI improver that starts to break down right away and fade from a 30 weight to a 20 weight before it’s time to change it. The best VII from Lubrizol was thermally stable and the viscosity didn’t budge. I’d rather have that one!
I use AMS Oil in my beloved 8 year old Jeep I believe that it has made my Jeep healthier. My mom uses AMS Oil in her 20 year old 200,000 mile suv
As the Oui Geek says : application should drive your choice. To just scoot around in mid weather regions, any oil will do but figure-in towing, mountaneous terrain, extreme temperature and then, premium oils like Amzoil are called for. You got to further research the question as those 2 oils do have different additives packages but more importantly, there are made from different base oils.
Amsoil SS 15k miles oil change snice new. Now, at 230k miles, and im paying for group IV oil.
I’ve used supertech for years no problems in -50 degree weather of course I always plug it in or leave it running
I use AMSoil for my 2013 Nissan Altima and 2023 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack.
Better check your warranty on the Challenger, I've read Amsoil didn't pay for one of the certifications...
i have 4 cars and use supertech full synthetic high mileage and mobil 1 extended filter for many years.
Always change oil and filter every 5k miles, and have never had any issues.
I have found the same things that you did, no performance or mileage degradation from amsoil to a full synthetic. Also, I don't use the thin 20 weight oils recommended by vehicle manufacturers, I use a 30 weight.
It's a personal preference and you should discuss it with an Independent mechanic. Both of my Independent mechanics recommended Liqui Moly for our Volvo and Lexus. I shall be changing to the Japanese oil Idemitsu IFG 5 fully synthetic 0w-16 for my 2023 Lexus ES300h soon. It's on order from Amazon and hard to find anywhere. Idemitsu also makes IFG 7 for hybrid engines but I cannot find it anywhere in the United States.
I’ve been using Costco Kirkland brand motor oil and add BG MOA Additive to it for years in all my vehicles. I heard Costco,Super Tech and Amazon oils are made by the same refinery , Warren Distribution
I find it hard to believe that you’ve actually done any research. As for the cost of the oil, consider your cheap subgrade oil that you’re indicating is better than AMSOIL and do the math since the signature series will serve you 20 to 25,000 miles between during intervals. As stated in other comments, simply a far superior product for those who depend on and respect their machines.
But your filter won't
@@lynch6642 AMSOIL has filters available for many vehicles that will go the full 25K. The other ones will go for 15K miles, so a filter change and a quart of oil at mid mileage takes care of that.
Actually the Supertech full synthetic beat Amsoil in the frozen cold pour test on Nate’s interactive auto
And on Project farm the super tech full synthetic beat Red line synthetic in the frozen cold pour test with a cooked sample and fresh sample
Also in a test super tech synthetic vs super tech high mileage synthetic the high mileage beat. The 1 that went against amsoil and red line
Yes, he was only using the 10,000 mi, they have a 20,000mi advanced full synthetic for only a dollar more a gallon..
@@erickut677 That's why for me it's Supertech in the winter, and Redline in the summer.
@@erickut677 Either way, if the win was only slight, the engine won’t know the difference. Amsoil’s wear scar was much smaller, which means a lot more.
All very true sir.
But if your filter isnt synthetic always, Then you just don't know. Amen Brother.
Spanky Cool.
I get the supertech synthetic for about $20/5 qt. jug. The '98 5.9 magnum doesn't seem to care and the price is as cheap as about anything🙂
I used to use Amsoil motor oil, not anymore for the reasons you mentioned. However, I am a believer in ther ATF and would not hesitate to keep on using it
Amsoil selling it's oil through a pyramid scheme sales is sketchy. If it's that good then make it available through all retailers. Never bought it and never would. Way over priced for what it does. If you change oil regularly you don't need boutique oils.
I own a vibe GT 2.4L Toyota. Drinks oil. Conv oil burns slower. I believe all I can do is a piston soak.
Pennzoil synthetic oils beat Amsoil, in cold flow tests.
Not in Project Farms tests. Pennzoil ultra won in the high temp evaporation test
That only matters in cold areas, AZ, TX, CA are not going to need to worry about that.
What a real person? Novel idea. Boycott all robot vids!. I use super tech and quakerstate and penz and castrol. Chevron conv. left too much sludge in my lilgenz.
I refuse to use Super Tech for the simple fact of the packaging. Both times I tried to use it, oil was leaking from the container into the trunk of my car. If they don’t give a shit enough to package their products, then o don’t want to use it
I've used Supertech full synthetics since the late 80s when I got my 1st turbo. Never a problem.
@@lonniebeal6032 super tech is made by and is Warren oil company which has been in the business a long time
Amen 🙏🏼 brother
John 14:6 thank you, brother. I'm a big AMSOIL guy. All my cars are started on it for the first 60-70k miles then whatever sale prices are on Mobile or Valvoline. Three of the four cars are 170, 000 or higher and going strong. The other car is at 75k and no issues.
What oil should I use on my 2018 Chevy Cruze turbo engine?
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum
@@ChicagoRob2 Agreed! I also like the Valvoline HM Max Life. My 2014 F-150 3.5L ecoboost loves both.
@@CWB1863 Valvoline HM Max Life is excellent.
@@ChicagoRob2 I was thinking of going back and fourth between oil intervals with the Ultra platinum and Max Life, but i hear if you go the high mile route, you should stick to it. Could be wrong but it would make sense.
A turbo Cruze?
No disrespect but...trade it in on a Toyota or Honda.
Very good video. I like your style. Make more.
I wouldn't call Amsoil a high marketing company. No way compared to top oil companies
Funny thing is i saw an extended review of multiple oils and amsoil flowed the slowest when cold😂
Minus 30 Celsius is minus 22 Fahrenheit, pretty chilly (okay cold) but won't gel your Supertech oil.
Being a Canadian I was laughing at his thinking -30C was equal to -80F. I use 0W20 and start my car at -30C at least 4 or 5 times a winter season and never had any problems. I have always used Castrol Edge.
@@davidcampbell1899 Another interesting fact; Centigrade and Fahrenheit are equal when both are at -40 degrees.
@chuckgrenci6404 Most of us Canadians know that and have experienced it in real life first hand.-40C/F is so cold that it actually hurts you face when you are walking in it!
I use the 5w30 synthetic in my 2010 mkt ecoboost never a problem change at 4k .
Pennsoil Platunum 5w30 is not shear stable, the Ultra Platinum might be better
And beat penzoil ULTRA platinum for the money. But for sure no longer than 5k mile oil changes, which imo makes it not worth buying amsoil. Maybe if I was driving for a living and putting hundreds of thousands of miles on a vehicle within a few years I would consider amsoil . Especially saving time not having to get so many oil changes. Time is money.
Something like 1% of the population lives in the extreme cold areas you talk about.
That may very well be true but engines wear most on extremely cold start ups.
Doesn’t matter what oil you use if you change the oil every 3k. Motor will last forever under regular driving conditions on public roads.
God bless you and your family
Im turn between super tech advanced and mobile1 extended performance oils? Yes i do have twin turbo to so...?
super tech has worked for me but amsoil is good
2005 accord v6 351,000 miles WALMART oil every 10,000 miles never a problem
Buy it cheap and change it often. 2.5k oil 4-5 k oil and filter your engine will last 300-500K at a fraction of the cost.
That super tech 10,000 mi, is a medium quality they make it 20,000 advanced synthetic for only a $1 more... So less than $20 for 5 quarts, So that wasn't really a fair test..
Amsoil isn't the most expensive oil, matter of fact amsoil OE or boosted or high milage much cheaper than m1 and OE probably same as super tech. On the other hand royal purple probably the most expensive oil I have seen in the market. I paid $25 as amsoil prefer customer and get at least 25% off and I always buy 2 case of oil and get the next 6 months prefer customer option free. It's a buffs going around the market that amsoil the most expensive or over price oil but this is completely not truth. I don't go 25k miles and try not to exceed 10k miles on amsoil but what ever reason if I don't get time to change oil I feel ok to push my engine another couple thousands miles when amsoil in my engine with confidence. Saving $20-25 per oil change and using super tech I would not do that sorry
Thanks for sharing this video, I don’t know about others but in my case my 07 Honda pilot runs smooth with Amsoil SS. I use Amsoil on the engine, ATF, brakes and transfer case. A minor oil burning went away between oil changes and gas mileage improved as well. If you become a member the price is cheaper per QT.
So many know-it-alls. How many semesters of Organic Chemistry have you had? Can you even understand the Chrmistry analysis? Anybody can make a video.
I have a 2013 kia forte koup sx 2.4l. I live in central florida. Recommended oil is 5w-20. I use the car for motorsport events. It has over 205k miles. What do you recommend? I've been using Castrol, but am trying to cut costs now. I'm still going to stick with k&n for the filter.
Did you do all the miles? Just curious. I'd go 5w30 Supertech Full Synthetics...
@lonniebeal6032 no. Bought the car with 6 miles on it. I assume it was from test drives. Bought it off the lot.
@@Nyl3-youtube That's pretty much all the miles. But I still stand with the 5w30, especially in the summer.
im no supertech fan boy but when you said -80 fahrenheit.....yeah...lost credibility
When did he say -80 degrees? I didn't hear that plus he is using a research institute pretty sure that is credible just sayin
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But the Supertech doesn't have the golden pixie fart dust in it.
Shut up
Supertech every 4000 miles and you cant go wrong!!!!
-30C = about -22F.
If the bottle has what's called the API donut seal, everything else has to be what it claims to be. When an oil does not have the API donut seal is when you question it. The seal is leased from API and to lease it they test your product to make sure it passes everything the company claims it does. And they do it the no cheat way. They go to a store and buy it off the shelve so that no company can beef up a bottle and cheat on test results. They are testing what the customer gets this way.
And as far as heavy advertisement goes. They did not do that in the beginning because they found out as a small startup company that if they tooted their horn too loud, the bigger companies would try to sue them out of business. No joke. So their foundation was built on word of mouth not heavy advertisement.They toot their horn now because they out sell every company on synthetic oils, and they carry the largest line of synthetics in the world and that's no joke either. In fact they have a long list of being the first company to make synthetics products in several fields of lubrication. Along with being the first synthetic oil to get API approved in the world.
Because does not allow links to other videos. I'll post a video ID to the Amsoil history video. Just take the ID number and put it in the search box and it'll take you directly to the video: 9eJMYfbpSJ8
Well said, IB. "Turbo" Banks has been their spokesman for a while now and he is no dummy!
I agree
I wont spend money on Amsoil
go penazoil with less cost and rated #2 in the ratings .Thank You GOD SPEED
I signed on with Amsoil and the oil is a lot cheaper buying it from Amsoil than Amazon and if I order anything over $100 they take care of the shipping once I signed up with them I think it’s $25 for one year membership. it comes out cheaper than mobile one.
Either one
Amsoil is all inuse in my tuebi diesel wifes crv and all my motorcycles its thw highest quality oil you can buy it has nithing ti di with marketing and everything to do with thw way it performs and nothing to do with the cold weather
Over kill is a funny term,Jesus would use amsoil,just not the signature series,lol
This guy has limited information, there's other videos on RUclips where there actually doing real world testing verses all other oils & sending the oil to the lab comparing the results. Amsoil Signature Series comes out on top even over Pennzoil or Valvoline etc... also like one commenter stated Amsoil is 100% synthetic, which can protect your engine or Turbo better in high heat or extreme situations.
That's correct... The Motor Oil Geek and Project Farm on RUclips.
I'm still trying to find that Amsoil is 100%, it doesn't say it on the bottle, Motul, Idemitsu and Torco SR-1 say 100% on the bottle. The NAD has dictated that only 100% can say it on the bottle. Amsoils SDS is mostly blank. Redline, has up to 60% esters/PAOs which is why I'm guessing it doesn't say 100%. So I am suspicious of Amsoil being a group 3.
@@lonniebeal6032 Amsoil sells a full line of motor oils, diesel oils, ATF and gear oils that are listed on each of their bottles that say they are 100% Synthetic. Amsoil began selling semi-synthetic oils last year for both gasoline and diesel motors that contain over 50% synthetic content (whereas the competition sells their semi-synthetic oils containing anywhere from 1% to 15% synthetic). Amsoil was the first synthetic oil company that produced a 100% synthetic oil to be certified by the API in 1972 and they were the first company to produce a synthetic diesel oil, synthetic ATF, synthetic gear oil, synthetic racing oil, synthetic marine oil, etc. Since they were the leader in synthetic technology, they don't disclose the content on the SDS on the basis of a trade secret. Even they don't reveal the secret to their dealers, like me.
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-40c = -40f ish
There’s no comparison between those two oils in my opinion Amsoil all the way!! I do have twin turbos on my BMW.. Oil definitely gets hot!!
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