Epoxy Resin River Table Tutorial - Pro Guide
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- Опубликовано: 28 окт 2018
- GlassCast 50 Epoxy Resin was from www.glasscastresin.com
Full project details ▼
Video tutorial showing how to create a resin river table using GlassCast 50 epoxy resin, some live-edge wood and a translucent tinting pigment. We've included all the steps along the way including calculating how much resin you'll need, creating the barriers, pigmenting and pouring the resin, attaching the legs and finishing the surface.
Links to all the products used in the project (on the Easy Composites website):
► GlassCast 50 Epoxy Resin www.glasscastresin.com/glassc...
► Polypropylene Sheet www.glasscastresin.com/polypr...
► Translucent Tinting Pigment www.glasscastresin.com/resin-...
► Release Tape www.glasscastresin.com/resin-...
► Abrasive Paper www.glasscastresin.com/abrasi...
► NW1 Polishing Compound www.glasscastresin.com/nw1-ep...
►Our piece of English Yew was sourced from Exotic Hardwoods UK Ltd www.exotichardwoodsukltd.com/
►FREE eBook available to download here media.glasscastresin.com/proj...
If you have any questions, please just ask in the comments below!
#epoxyresin #resin #rivertable 
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Amazing video! Can't wait to do my first kitchen table!
Very professional and correct video. Thank you for it))
Looked great
New subscriber here.
Is the 10kg of resin you worked out the total you need including the hardener? So for example 7.5kg resin and 2.5kg hardener Or is it 10kg of the epoxy resin, + the hardener which would be 15kg total. Thanks
Hi, really enjoyed this video. Just have a few questions.
1) What dimensions was the table when you bought it?
2) How much did you take off for the finished product?
3) How much was the English Yew wood that you used?
Thanks!
Hi Aaron, I'm afraid I didn't really record those sizes; the piece was approximately 2m high and 50cm wide; as we used the timber for the legs as well, aside from the mitres and a very thin strip down the side, we utilised pretty much the whole thing. Unfortunately, its a little while ago now so I can't recall how much we paid for the actual piece but the Exotic Hardwoods UK website (in the description) lists lots of pieces with prices.
Hi just ordered some glasscast resin, what do you use for cleaning the mixing buckets?
You can use acetone to clean mixing sticks and buckets before the resin cures, Thanks
What PPE do you recommend when working with GlassCast 50?
Should you wear a mask for vapors when it is in it's liquid form?
Hi Neil, we would never discourage the use of a vapour mask when using the resin especially if you have known breathing issues such as asthma. The Resins are incredibly low VOC and don't really give anything off so the vast majority of users prefer not to use a mask at this stage, however, we would definitely recommend you use a suitable dust mask when cutting, sanding or drilling - the dust made isn't toxic but is an irritant like any other fine dust (sawdust, MDF dust, etc). Its also important to use Nitrile and not Latex gloves as the amines in epoxy can travel through latex. Although uncommon, some people do have sensitivities to resins and so long sleeves and gloves are important, eye protection to protect against splashes, etc.
@@glasscastresin Thanks for the advise
Hi, i'd like to make my first project with the glasscast resin but i need a buyer's advice for my first Circular saw. Can you advice an entry level affordable product to begin with? best regards
Hi Luigi, this may be something that you would need to ask the supplier of the circular saw. If you explain to them what it is you are going to be using this for, I am confident that they will be able to point you in the right direction.
So sad the bark had to be removed, it had a lot of textures like riverbank's mud. Is there anyway to infuse epoxy into those bark fibers (vacuum sealed way?).
God bless.
The issue with leaving the bark on the wood is that it generally has quite a weak bond to the rest of the wood. With large pieces like tables this can pose problems if the bark starts to come away at a later stage down the line. The issue with trying to use resin to stabilise the edge is that you never know how deep the resin has penetrated and sured up the wood. If you did want to keep the bark in place then really you would need to secure it with a mechanical fixing to ensure that it would be strong enough.
Is Danish oil compatible with glasscast 50 and 3. What other finishes are compatible?
We used Danish oil in this very video to finish the wood itself; it will simply wipe off the surface of the cured resin. You can use pretty much any wood-finishing material to complete the project from furniture waxes to varnishes and stains. They'll all coat the wood and simply wipe or buff off the top of the resin.
What angle did you cut for your legs of the table I want to attempt this
A simple 45' mitre cut.
How do you add white swirls in the river?
You'd need to pre-mix a couple of batches of resin, one with a white pigment which can then be mixed into the river. One of our great friends 'The Terrain Tutor', has some great, instructional guides on achieving life-like water (and wave) finishes. Its worth checking out his channel :-)
give advise
I've seen many tutorials on your products. what really has me interested is the way the bubbles escape. no idea if other brands work in that fashion.
my question is there a way to purchase in the US? if not can I get some tips on how to evaluate a different epoxy system suitable for floors and table/counter tops? I'm sort of out of my depth here... you can message me if that's better.
The Bubbles escape from the resin due to air expelling chemical additives included in the resin mixture at manufacture. This means that, in most cases, no or little degassing of the resin is needed. Allow 20 minutes after pouring for the resin to self-degas. You can then go over the surface gently with a heat gun or blowtorch to remove any remaining last bubbles. We can ship direct to the USA by FedEx. If you are looking at other resins, you want to look for a resin with high clarity, thick pouring ability, low viscosity and good UV stability.
what best for flora
Hi Ramesh, what do you mean sorry?
What does he mean.... key it... that’s if the epoxy goes behind the b stage. Does he mean to give it a sand.
Yes, precisely - around 120grit is ideal to give a good key to the surface between the cured layer and the new one.
Can you not
a) Weigh the wood.
b) Divide by the density of that type of wood to get the volume.
c) Might need to get the moisture content and adjust
d) Volume of the empty mould.
e) Subtract.
You could try and calculate the 'river' more accurately but would need to know the exact density for the wood. It also wouldn't factor the absorption of resin into the wood for the sealing coat etc.
@@glasscastresin Might be interesting next time, to measure moisture and weight before. Then carry on as you do, but see how much resin you do use and compare against the weight etc.
The reason is the weight you effectively know exactly to the nearest gram. Measurements of gaps etc are approximate.
That would be an interesting experiment.
Ebook is returning a 404, guys!
Here's the link but thanks for letting us know, I'll get it updated: media.glasscastresin.com/datasheets/eBook%20River%20Table%20Compressed%20FINAL.pdf