Dude, you're awesome! Thanks for this! I just got this set + a chassis for about 50$ from Banggood, but without you I wouldn't have known about the possibility of locking the differentials. Out of the box mine performed WAY worse than yours, was super slow and did almost not drift at all. After locking the diffs according to your instructions, it's just SO MUCH FUN!!! THANKS!
Thank you very much and it is good that you already have it, I changed the transmitter and the receiver, I put the dumborc x6 x6fg for the gyroscope, I see this car the problem is that the axle distance is 90mm, then it goes to 100mm and then I think they were 108mm and although I tried to put 100mm with 98mm and 16 teeth of the mini q q7, it did not fit me, I will wait to see what modifications you make in your next video, thanks
Finally. If there will be another video on this, please do a short comparison to the mini q q1 and q6. Im curious as to what parts from q1 i can donate over like shafts, spur, bearings and the like. Also some parts compatibilies from k969/89 if possible.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll make a comparation video between this and Q1 for sure. Q6 though... the gearbox broke to pieces so that's not going to happen. Well, all the gears, shafts and bearings are the same (as all the Mini-Q AWD series) so you can transfer everything from there to here. My main concern is at the wheel hubs.
hello, where did you bought that A86 90mm shell? looks awesome with this wide width... it's from Aliexpress? also what are the biggest batteries that can take?
It's from Firelap. I think you can still find it on Aliexpress. It's 90mm narrow, pretty much the clone of Mini-Z body. The battery tray will fit anything that is 52x14.5mm, the height doesn't matter because you can stick it up. Basically any 300-400mAh will fit.
Thank you for the great video. I just picked one of these up, I had a few issues straight out of the box, however thanks to you I was able to remedy them quickly. The only problem I have now is that the servo has already died. Any suggestions on a direct replacement or maybe even a upgrade?
The AFRC D1802MG is a direct fit upgrade bit.ly/2TZKav3 unfortunately the JR plug is out of stock, you can choose other plugs if your receiver is a micro one. WLtoys metal gear servo is also a direct fit. bit.ly/3k0CrWb
Thank you so much for this review 😊👌I've had my eye on this for a while now, I love it in purple, I might get one lol, do you think that the mini z spur gear will fit for extending the wheelbase?
Yes, I think it'll work. The wheelbase is the same standard and the spacing between shaft holder is similar. I'll try and install the MD006 shaft and gear in my chassis only build to get it to 94mm wheelbase.
The width is 54.8mm, exactly the same as Mini-Z AWD narrow chassis. Better still, it works with 0mm offset wheels too so yes, it will fit Mini-Z narrow bodies perfectly. I'm currently running AE86 body on it. Keep in mind that the only applicable wheelbases are 90mm and 98mm.
If you could possibly help me I was wondering where do I get a servo for one of these guys because mine actually just went out on me yesterday and I was wondering if there are any good upgrades zeros that will fit in easily I tried fixing it with another micro servo that I had but the gears just didn’t seem to want to mesh right
It's 5g short body servo. The size is the same as WLtoys K989 so you can search the metal gear version for that on aliexpress. AFRC D1802MG is another option you can use.
Oh hello sir another question, I'm actually planning to buy one and move all of wltoys's the electronics to this one. I was thinking what is your recommendation on the steering angle? what are the other stuff we might need to buy to make the steering angle better? Thank you so much for your response~
You can get the smaller ball heads and adjustable rods from Q3/Q5/Q6 to uses with this car. Here's the rear knuckle set with ball heads. www.banggood.com/SINOHOBBY-Mini-Q5-RC-Car-Spare-Parts-Steering-Hub-Set-V28-018Z-p-1063469.html And here's the adjustable steering & tie rods. www.banggood.com/2PCS-Sinohobby-Mini-Q-V28-019Z-Adjustable-Linkage-Rods-for-1-or-28-RC-Car-Spare-Parts-p-1646566.html With these 2 you can restore the steering angle to Q6's original angle.
I just got mine yesterday, absolute garbage! With all the bad assembly, It came with a broken swing shaft, I fixed it then the servo broke, replaced it with With an old one that I had, then the motor smoked. Absolute garbage don’t buy it and save your money and get something trusted and tested like Mini z or something. I love your channel Beaver, Keep up the good work.
Unfortunately there is one and it's really bad. It's the Mini-Q Q8 RWD. You can't really drive it unless you replace the linkages, change the ESC, gyro and the transmitter to make it work. At that point, just get the ARR (almost ready to run, if I remember correctly it already comes with motor, ESC and battery) version of BMR-X and add your own transmitter. That's the best option for ready to run.
My driveshaft in the middle is not making correct contact with the front diff and I'm not getting power up there :/ and I also really want to extend the wheelbase but have no idea how
You might need to put some shims on the differential. Basically it's washer with 6mm inner diameter. Here's a guide to shim. mini-z-guide.com/AWD_Drivetrain.htm If the non-contact problem you have is because the shaft doesn't go forward enough to make contact, you will need to put some M2 spacers on the shaft to push it forward.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the response! I took a look and the plastic gear is wore down from the metal diff. Are there metal gear driveshaft in 106 available?
@@foxhoundra6444Yes, there's metal gear driveshaft too. www.aliexpress.com/item/33053547244.html Or you can pull the original gear out (I think the shaft is just normal 2mm shaft) and put Tamiya Mini 4WD metal pinion (for motor) in.
@@BeaversHobby oh wow thanks again! I'm gonna pick that up as soon as I can, it looks like it's exactly what I need for the longer wheelbase also. By the way, remember how I mentioned the front diff was slipping on the gear? I just removed the plastic gear and switched it around. The gear was just too worn down and it works fine now. I do see some plastic dust though, so I think my gear mesh is a little tight but as long as it isn't my differential tolerances, the new driveshaft should fix this issue too
@@foxhoundra6444 If you have Tamiya Mini 4WD parts lying around or near ay Tamiya shop that sells it, the motor gear will fit. The tight gear mesh might be an issue later down the line but there's a quick fix. Loosen the gearbox screw under the car and push it out, hold the gearbox the n screw it back in should help a bit.
Hello there I just received this car I’m very impressed with it just wondering could I use the upgraded k989 steering links for this car also should I keep the ball diffs in it or would you recommend plastic diffs since the gears are plastic and could I use the k989 metal pinions and spur gears with this car
The steering links should be compatible as it has 2mm thread but the linkages from WLtoys are longer so I don't know how will that work (except introducing toe in). As for the ball diffs, they'll work with the original gears. These gears are pretty good unlike WLtoys that made from super soft plastic.
@@BeaversHobby thank you very much I got another question I have locked both front and rear diffs and the front diff came loose I’ve had ball diffs before and they did the same thing how do I prevent that from happening I’d is it the quality control
@@evanwillard2811 It's quite normal for the lock nut for this will get loose from time to time. You can either replace the nut, it's just a standard M2 lock nut you can find anywhere (the same as wheel nut) or use thread lock to stop it from getting loose. The other way is to change it to something good like GL Racing GLA differential.
I just ordered this chassis. With 90 wheelbase I can fit the mini z rx7 body on it. My question is, does the mini z body come with everything I need to install it to this chassis?
Yes, Mini-Z body will give you the front lip and side clips that you can use with this chassis directly. You will need to change the wheels to narrow 0 offset as well but the MA-020 version of the body will give you those too.
Hello sir! Amazing video as always! I'd like to ask a question: Does the Wltoys' long shaft pinion gear work with this one? so It can be converted to 102mm wheel base? Thank you so much for the answer and Happy Holidays! you need a well deserved rest for all the hard work you're doing for the 1/28 scale hobby~!
@@BeaversHobby Well, I have fully tightened a differential and the rear axle is blocked and does not turn, tomorrow I will loosen a little to see if it unlocks
@Beaver's Hobby great videos btw! Wish you made more of the 530 since there's really almost no videos online... Looks like I maybe should have gone with the mini q also on sale and looks like has a way better steering angle...
@@JeffKAY1 I'll have to ask which 18A is it? If it's the Surpass Rocket 18A then no, it's not good. If it 's Hobbywing EZrun 18A then yes, that one is good. As for the KV, 3500 is for slow or small area drifting (under 3m) or get 5600KV if you need more headroom. Either are good, with 5600KV you might need to adjust some gearing so it's not too fast on a small area.
There is but it's not affordable. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006036809695.html It's better if you already have the electronics then get the chassis only or choose your own electronics. Anyway, TG Racing is pretty hot right now, price per performance wise. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005292720617.html
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the prompt reply, I've been awhile in the hobby but yet to know which is better price and quality wise to hunt the electronics by myself. To be honest I feel sometimes gyro makes it worse for drift and yet to see the full effect of it. The price of the items and new tax imposed by the country is all together stopping me from continuing.
@@Raj_RDX Gyro quality depends on what you get, your setup and also the floor you play on. I recently got the GT55 gyro and it's one of the best out there. The price is a bit steep compared to AGF or AFRC so take a look at those too.
Take a 3 servo apart, take the board out and you'll see there are 5 wires, 2 from motor and 3 from potentiometer, try and wire them like the original servo and it should work. Here's how I convert 5 wire to 3 wire, to convert 3 wire to 5 wire is the opposite. ruclips.net/video/GDukjyycyxo/видео.html
I haven't got the manual for this radio but I think it's autobind. If it doesn't then there might be a problem with the radio and you should contact the shop.
The plastic + carbon version is Sinohobby Mini-Q Q6. It might pop up on AliExpress from time to time. The plastic bulkheads are quite fragile so be careful if you take it apart.
@@BeaversHobby yes that’s my plan. I drift on a very slick old hardwood floor, so even the original kyosho drift tires are pretty slippery. Now my guess is that the LF5 will be a lot more slippery than that, and paired with the weight it should feel a little like drifting an AWD car on ice. 🥶👍
@@BeaversHobby that’s why I love Sturmkind Dr!ft as well, you can set it to ice-track-mode. Here it is with spike tires on ice, but you can even use street tires to make it even less grippy: ruclips.net/video/GTyVdUtglTE/видео.html
Hi Beaver! Thanks for your awesome videos - I've certainly found myself a new hobby in the 1/28 rc's :D Unfortunately my Ruhazn 530 was far from "ready to run" when I received it and was hoping for some advice. Firstly the Transmitter was not bound to the receiver. I did a quick look around a but didn't find anything useful immediately on the internet. I ended up pushing the bind button the the the receiver, then turning on the transmitter while holder down the "set" button. That seemed to work at first but only for throttle (steering does not work at all). Also if I turn either transmitter or car off, and back on, they are no longer bound. Any ideas? Thanks so much!
@@TheJeffinman Sounds like the transmitter is faulty. Contact the seller and ask if they can send you a new transmitter or receiver. You can replace them but you shouldn't because it's the shop's responsible.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the advice. I've raised a ticket through banggood so we'll see how we go getting replacements for repair. The servo since I last posted has also failed, it just stopped working on a corner (not a crash) and now makes a loud noise when power is turned onto the car. It's completely stuck - do you have any recommendations on replacement Servo's that would fit out of the box?
@@TheJeffinman This one is direct fit. bit.ly/2TZKav3 Choose JR plug if you still use the standard receiver. Othewise if you want to upgrade it to micro receiver (like Flysky NB4 + GMR or Sanwa, Futaba with micro receiver) choose ZH 1.5.
@@vanthitran2800 Sorry, $13 was an estimation with bulk sale (when buying 100+ units). Best we can get is around $25. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002534044019.html Is it any good? I don't think so. But it'll work.
This one has better compatibility with Mini-Z differentials (front one way + solid axle as well) without having to replace the CVD. It's 90mm wheelbase narrow chassis so more JDM bodies are available like S13, 180SX, Sil80, AE86.
![[Review] DriftArt 2.5 CC Why is it so good? | Unboxing & Test Drive](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fIBy5nHS6i8/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Review] DriftArt 2.5 CC Why is it so good? | Unboxing & Test Drive](/img/tr.png)
You got no idea how long I waited for you to review this. Thank you!
Sorry for the delay. I just got the car a few days ago.
Love your script-less review style! Excellent info about the car, thanks for all the insights!
Thanks for the review, I've been looking at this for the last few weeks trying to decide if I should get one
omg! ETA prime is also here! when will be the ETA Prime RC channel~ XD
Yoooo!!!!!!!!!!! This is amazing
I wish you would make rc vids again
I wish you would make rc vids again
Dude, you're awesome! Thanks for this! I just got this set + a chassis for about 50$ from Banggood, but without you I wouldn't have known about the possibility of locking the differentials. Out of the box mine performed WAY worse than yours, was super slow and did almost not drift at all. After locking the diffs according to your instructions, it's just SO MUCH FUN!!! THANKS!
my k989 is lonely, I'm gonna pick one of these up in purple :) Thanks!
Thank you very much and it is good that you already have it, I changed the transmitter and the receiver, I put the dumborc x6 x6fg for the gyroscope, I see this car the problem is that the axle distance is 90mm, then it goes to 100mm and then I think they were 108mm and although I tried to put 100mm with 98mm and 16 teeth of the mini q q7, it did not fit me, I will wait to see what modifications you make in your next video, thanks
Finally. If there will be another video on this, please do a short comparison to the mini q q1 and q6.
Im curious as to what parts from q1 i can donate over like shafts, spur, bearings and the like.
Also some parts compatibilies from k969/89 if possible.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll make a comparation video between this and Q1 for sure. Q6 though... the gearbox broke to pieces so that's not going to happen.
Well, all the gears, shafts and bearings are the same (as all the Mini-Q AWD series) so you can transfer everything from there to here. My main concern is at the wheel hubs.
Mine will be in today!
hello, where did you bought that A86 90mm shell? looks awesome with this wide width... it's from Aliexpress? also what are the biggest batteries that can take?
It's from Firelap. I think you can still find it on Aliexpress. It's 90mm narrow, pretty much the clone of Mini-Z body.
The battery tray will fit anything that is 52x14.5mm, the height doesn't matter because you can stick it up. Basically any 300-400mAh will fit.
Thank you for the great video. I just picked one of these up, I had a few issues straight out of the box, however thanks to you I was able to remedy them quickly. The only problem I have now is that the servo has already died. Any suggestions on a direct replacement or maybe even a upgrade?
The AFRC D1802MG is a direct fit upgrade bit.ly/2TZKav3 unfortunately the JR plug is out of stock, you can choose other plugs if your receiver is a micro one.
WLtoys metal gear servo is also a direct fit. bit.ly/3k0CrWb
Thank you so much for responding. I really appreciate the help.
@@halstonb My pleasure.
Hey , what brushless motor do you recommend for this ?
The same as other 1/28, Surpass Rocket 1410 v2 3500KV-5500KV with DasMikro ESC or PN Racing V2 ESC.
Thank you so much for this review 😊👌I've had my eye on this for a while now, I love it in purple, I might get one lol, do you think that the mini z spur gear will fit for extending the wheelbase?
Yes, I think it'll work. The wheelbase is the same standard and the spacing between shaft holder is similar. I'll try and install the MD006 shaft and gear in my chassis only build to get it to 94mm wheelbase.
Nice review as always! How much is the width without the wheels, will it fit mini-z narrow body shells?
The width is 54.8mm, exactly the same as Mini-Z AWD narrow chassis. Better still, it works with 0mm offset wheels too so yes, it will fit Mini-Z narrow bodies perfectly. I'm currently running AE86 body on it.
Keep in mind that the only applicable wheelbases are 90mm and 98mm.
If you could possibly help me I was wondering where do I get a servo for one of these guys because mine actually just went out on me yesterday and I was wondering if there are any good upgrades zeros that will fit in easily I tried fixing it with another micro servo that I had but the gears just didn’t seem to want to mesh right
It's 5g short body servo. The size is the same as WLtoys K989 so you can search the metal gear version for that on aliexpress. AFRC D1802MG is another option you can use.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you for the help guy
Perhaps u can try to run it with 1s battery, such a tiny drift car it doesn't need too much powerful throttle
It will run. I have this ESC before and it does work with 1S and 4xAAA better than 2S. In hindsight they should have given 1S with the car.
Hello!! Are the wheels sized 20mmX11mm or 22mmX11mm? Very well explained video, congratulations!!
Thanks😃
The wheels are 20x11mm.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks 👍👍😉
Oh hello sir another question, I'm actually planning to buy one and move all of wltoys's the electronics to this one. I was thinking what is your recommendation on the steering angle? what are the other stuff we might need to buy to make the steering angle better? Thank you so much for your response~
You can get the smaller ball heads and adjustable rods from Q3/Q5/Q6 to uses with this car.
Here's the rear knuckle set with ball heads. www.banggood.com/SINOHOBBY-Mini-Q5-RC-Car-Spare-Parts-Steering-Hub-Set-V28-018Z-p-1063469.html
And here's the adjustable steering & tie rods. www.banggood.com/2PCS-Sinohobby-Mini-Q-V28-019Z-Adjustable-Linkage-Rods-for-1-or-28-RC-Car-Spare-Parts-p-1646566.html
With these 2 you can restore the steering angle to Q6's original angle.
@@BeaversHobby omg! thank you a bunch! this is exactly what I needed and from the same shop too thanks!
@@jhaybz29 My pleasure.
Looks pretty good for the price! 😀
Indeed! The chassis quality makes it worth the price.
I have no idea how aliexpress selling these for less than 60 bucks for the chassis. But its cool.
I just got mine yesterday, absolute garbage! With all the bad assembly, It came with a broken swing shaft, I fixed it then the servo broke, replaced it with With an old one that I had, then the motor smoked.
Absolute garbage don’t buy it and save your money and get something trusted and tested like Mini z or something.
I love your channel Beaver, Keep up the good work.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I wish there was a RWD ready to run version, cant find any online
Unfortunately there is one and it's really bad. It's the Mini-Q Q8 RWD. You can't really drive it unless you replace the linkages, change the ESC, gyro and the transmitter to make it work. At that point, just get the ARR (almost ready to run, if I remember correctly it already comes with motor, ESC and battery) version of BMR-X and add your own transmitter. That's the best option for ready to run.
My driveshaft in the middle is not making correct contact with the front diff and I'm not getting power up there :/ and I also really want to extend the wheelbase but have no idea how
You might need to put some shims on the differential. Basically it's washer with 6mm inner diameter. Here's a guide to shim. mini-z-guide.com/AWD_Drivetrain.htm
If the non-contact problem you have is because the shaft doesn't go forward enough to make contact, you will need to put some M2 spacers on the shaft to push it forward.
@@BeaversHobby thanks for the response! I took a look and the plastic gear is wore down from the metal diff. Are there metal gear driveshaft in 106 available?
@@foxhoundra6444Yes, there's metal gear driveshaft too. www.aliexpress.com/item/33053547244.html
Or you can pull the original gear out (I think the shaft is just normal 2mm shaft) and put Tamiya Mini 4WD metal pinion (for motor) in.
@@BeaversHobby oh wow thanks again! I'm gonna pick that up as soon as I can, it looks like it's exactly what I need for the longer wheelbase also. By the way, remember how I mentioned the front diff was slipping on the gear? I just removed the plastic gear and switched it around. The gear was just too worn down and it works fine now. I do see some plastic dust though, so I think my gear mesh is a little tight but as long as it isn't my differential tolerances, the new driveshaft should fix this issue too
@@foxhoundra6444 If you have Tamiya Mini 4WD parts lying around or near ay Tamiya shop that sells it, the motor gear will fit. The tight gear mesh might be an issue later down the line but there's a quick fix. Loosen the gearbox screw under the car and push it out, hold the gearbox the n screw it back in should help a bit.
Hello there I just received this car I’m very impressed with it just wondering could I use the upgraded k989 steering links for this car also should I keep the ball diffs in it or would you recommend plastic diffs since the gears are plastic and could I use the k989 metal pinions and spur gears with this car
The steering links should be compatible as it has 2mm thread but the linkages from WLtoys are longer so I don't know how will that work (except introducing toe in).
As for the ball diffs, they'll work with the original gears. These gears are pretty good unlike WLtoys that made from super soft plastic.
@@BeaversHobby thank you very much I got another question I have locked both front and rear diffs and the front diff came loose I’ve had ball diffs before and they did the same thing how do I prevent that from happening I’d is it the quality control
@@evanwillard2811 It's quite normal for the lock nut for this will get loose from time to time. You can either replace the nut, it's just a standard M2 lock nut you can find anywhere (the same as wheel nut) or use thread lock to stop it from getting loose.
The other way is to change it to something good like GL Racing GLA differential.
@@BeaversHobby thank you I’ll look for better diffs
I just ordered this chassis. With 90 wheelbase I can fit the mini z rx7 body on it. My question is, does the mini z body come with everything I need to install it to this chassis?
Yes, Mini-Z body will give you the front lip and side clips that you can use with this chassis directly. You will need to change the wheels to narrow 0 offset as well but the MA-020 version of the body will give you those too.
@@BeaversHobby thank you
@@fixxer3859 My pleasure.
Hello sir! Amazing video as always! I'd like to ask a question: Does the Wltoys' long shaft pinion gear work with this one? so It can be converted to 102mm wheel base? Thank you so much for the answer and Happy Holidays! you need a well deserved rest for all the hard work you're doing for the 1/28 scale hobby~!
Unfortunately no, it won't work. This car need the Mini-Q gear for that so there is spur gear on the rear pinion.
@@BeaversHobby Hello sir thank so much for the reply! hope you're having a great week
You should do a rwd convirson on this
Cutting aluminium is nothing I'm looking forward to do. Besides, there's RWD conversion of Mini-Q based chassis already, the HGD1 or HGV1.
have you locked both differentials or just the front differential? the tightening is not full right?
I did both front and rear diff. I only filmed 1 side because it's the same. And yes, I also tightened them fully lock.
@@BeaversHobby Well, I have fully tightened a differential and the rear axle is blocked and does not turn, tomorrow I will loosen a little to see if it unlocks
@@juancar69 Try unlock the front if it doesn't turn.
@@BeaversHobby it's the butt, I'll try tomorrow, thanks
@@juancar69 Best of luck! There's no right and wrong way to do it. Just do what works for you.
I just got one on banggood for 52 rtr... possible to do cheap brushless setup?
Yes. It's the standard 130 motor size so Surpass Rocket V2 + DasMikro V3 ESC still work with it.
@@BeaversHobby what kv you recommend for drifting? 18 amp esc?
@Beaver's Hobby great videos btw!
Wish you made more of the 530 since there's really almost no videos online...
Looks like I maybe should have gone with the mini q also on sale and looks like has a way better steering angle...
@@JeffKAY1 I'll have to ask which 18A is it? If it's the Surpass Rocket 18A then no, it's not good. If it 's Hobbywing EZrun 18A then yes, that one is good.
As for the KV, 3500 is for slow or small area drifting (under 3m) or get 5600KV if you need more headroom. Either are good, with 5600KV you might need to adjust some gearing so it's not too fast on a small area.
@@JeffKAY1 The ball steering linkages can be replaced with small heads and give it the same steering as the original Mini-Q.
i wanna get this car but i want to know if its possible to convert it to RWD
Unfortunately, no. There's RWD version of this chassis, HGD1 and HGV1 (budget version) so take a look at those instead.
Hi bro u hv any recommendations for an affordable rwd rtr set
There is but it's not affordable. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006036809695.html
It's better if you already have the electronics then get the chassis only or choose your own electronics. Anyway, TG Racing is pretty hot right now, price per performance wise. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005292720617.html
@@BeaversHobby thank you for the prompt reply, I've been awhile in the hobby but yet to know which is better price and quality wise to hunt the electronics by myself. To be honest I feel sometimes gyro makes it worse for drift and yet to see the full effect of it. The price of the items and new tax imposed by the country is all together stopping me from continuing.
@@Raj_RDX Gyro quality depends on what you get, your setup and also the floor you play on. I recently got the GT55 gyro and it's one of the best out there. The price is a bit steep compared to AGF or AFRC so take a look at those too.
Hi , how to make a better ankle STEERING ?
Smaller ball caps for steering assembly will help a lot. But you can't go beyond what CVD can do anyway.
@@BeaversHobby ok thanks, what is CVD ?
@@vanthitran2800 Drive shaft that connects the wheel to the differential.
@@BeaversHobby ok thanks you Bro 👍
@@vanthitran2800 My pleasure.
how i put a 3 pin servo in a mini q tqr1 board? the board is 5 pins.
Take a 3 servo apart, take the board out and you'll see there are 5 wires, 2 from motor and 3 from potentiometer, try and wire them like the original servo and it should work.
Here's how I convert 5 wire to 3 wire, to convert 3 wire to 5 wire is the opposite. ruclips.net/video/GDukjyycyxo/видео.html
How do you bind it I can't get mine to bind
I haven't got the manual for this radio but I think it's autobind. If it doesn't then there might be a problem with the radio and you should contact the shop.
Does anyone know what the name of the plastic version is and where i can find it?
The plastic + carbon version is Sinohobby Mini-Q Q6. It might pop up on AliExpress from time to time. The plastic bulkheads are quite fragile so be careful if you take it apart.
I’d actually like to get a Mini-Z AWD in full steel…the heavier the better for realistic drifting imo. 😂
There're many factors. To make heavy cars feel good to drift the floor must be very slippery.
@@BeaversHobby yes that’s my plan.
I drift on a very slick old hardwood floor, so even the original kyosho drift tires are pretty slippery.
Now my guess is that the LF5 will be a lot more slippery than that, and paired with the weight it should feel a little like drifting an AWD car on ice. 🥶👍
@@muaythai193 Yes.
@@BeaversHobby that’s why I love Sturmkind Dr!ft as well, you can set it to ice-track-mode.
Here it is with spike tires on ice, but you can even use street tires to make it even less grippy:
ruclips.net/video/GTyVdUtglTE/видео.html
What car body shells to use?
The best fit and the easiest to find right now are either AE86 or Impreza 90mm.
@@BeaversHobby Thank you
Between this car and the wltoys k969 which is better
K969 is better to drive. This one fits Mini-Z bodies better and more durable.
Please do the rc02
where can i get the plastic one
It's not available anymore.
Hi Beaver! Thanks for your awesome videos - I've certainly found myself a new hobby in the 1/28 rc's :D
Unfortunately my Ruhazn 530 was far from "ready to run" when I received it and was hoping for some advice. Firstly the Transmitter was not bound to the receiver. I did a quick look around a but didn't find anything useful immediately on the internet. I ended up pushing the bind button the the the receiver, then turning on the transmitter while holder down the "set" button. That seemed to work at first but only for throttle (steering does not work at all). Also if I turn either transmitter or car off, and back on, they are no longer bound. Any ideas? Thanks so much!
I found the solution to the servo not working - the plug was shipped the wrong way around.... I still have to bind it every time I turn it on though.
@@TheJeffinman Sounds like the transmitter is faulty. Contact the seller and ask if they can send you a new transmitter or receiver. You can replace them but you shouldn't because it's the shop's responsible.
@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the advice. I've raised a ticket through banggood so we'll see how we go getting replacements for repair.
The servo since I last posted has also failed, it just stopped working on a corner (not a crash) and now makes a loud noise when power is turned onto the car. It's completely stuck - do you have any recommendations on replacement Servo's that would fit out of the box?
@@TheJeffinman This one is direct fit. bit.ly/2TZKav3 Choose JR plug if you still use the standard receiver. Othewise if you want to upgrade it to micro receiver (like Flysky NB4 + GMR or Sanwa, Futaba with micro receiver) choose ZH 1.5.
@@BeaversHobby can you do a body video on this guy?
Can't even use link
kinda good. practise your voice for better expiriense
Chassis and rtr only $26 different 🤔
Motor, ESC and servo are pretty cheap. Possibly around $10 or even less when buy in bulk. $13 left for a basic radio sounds reasonable.
@@BeaversHobby can you give me the link for the radio 13 DOLLARDS ? THANKS
@@vanthitran2800 Sorry, $13 was an estimation with bulk sale (when buying 100+ units). Best we can get is around $25. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002534044019.html
Is it any good? I don't think so. But it'll work.
@@BeaversHobby Ah ok i see , thanks
Looks like it is too heavy in the turns.
The tyres and front spring aren't really following my commands. Also a bit of setup will help. I'll try find new linkages so I can adjust it easier.
What's the benefit of getting this bs a wl toys to drift?
Vs*
This one has better compatibility with Mini-Z differentials (front one way + solid axle as well) without having to replace the CVD. It's 90mm wheelbase narrow chassis so more JDM bodies are available like S13, 180SX, Sil80, AE86.