So very glad RUclips suggested your video! Have not experienced this issue yet on my 2015 F-150, but with your outstanding video/tutorial, I will not fear doing this job. Thanks for a great detailed video. Cheers from Motown/Dearborn!!
@robertclymer6948, Welcome to the channel, I'm glad you found my video helpful. I have several other videos related to diagnosing 4x4 vacuum issues if you ever have a problem check em out!
Hi Again! I am Definately Subscribing now. Jacob's unselfish giving his time and experience is something you don't find in many You Tube videos. Loved the Jacob and Ben back and forth comments. Learned a lot just from that alone. Thanks again Jacob, you are the man!!
I pulled mine off while doing my ball joints and Control arm. It looked gross in there, but I don’t see any worn out parts. I’ve cleaned it and could not figure out what type of lube to use. I do not do a whole lot of water crossings or any for that matter and very little off-road driving but it does see some mud. Will that grease be a good general purpose. Grease?
@ickess, great question! Don't go heavy on the actuators. I'm sure some general purpose synthetic grease would work fine. Ford recommends this high pressure grease Mobil XHP 222 for mud and water use. amzn.to/42vXaYj It's good to re-lube every 20,000miles or right after water crossings / mudding.
Thanks for the reply! I can safely say it’s never been done. Assuming it all goes well she’s gunna be a happy girl. New ball joints, tie rod ends, upper control arms and the actuators cleaned and lubed. Might take me a couple months worth of weekends though to do it all though.
@@jacobsupgradesha, well…I worked on it last weekend. Got one control arm on and one ball joint. Had to order the tie rod ends after I found they are bad too. The trucks seen NY winters and driving on the beach so the rust is slowing me down. Now it needs to be lubed and put back together. Of course, once the new parts arrive. Crossing my fingers the driver side goes faster now that I’ve somewhat completed one side. Was definitely a nice surprise that I had to loosen and move the strut tower so that I can get to one of the control arm bolts. Poor design. Oh and the impact wrench helped a ton!
@@ickess Salt can wreak havoc on parts. I try and apply fluid film when I can to help prevent salt corrosion. I bet you'll be able to get the other side together much quicker. Having the parts helps too
I was told my actuater on my 150 is completely broken and sometimes makes a clunking sound when turning. Will it be safe to drive the truck until i can fix it?
@@brianseverson4570 I drove mine around for a little while until I could fix it. I would only drive it if you absolutely have to and wouldn't take it far. You don't want to mess anything else up with your drive line. It could tear up gears and grind up a CV if it's partially engaged.
Hey Jacob. So I am getting this noise when I am doing 50mph. I have a 2018 xlt 5.0l Fx4. When I shift into 4h and do about 50 the noise goes away. When I shift back into 2h, the noise comes back. I have replaced both front wheel hubs assemblies and still nothing. Based on this information, could it be the IWE or something else. It is quite annoying lol P.S truck only has 61k
Could you describe the noise? It could be the IWE or it could be within the 4WD vacuum system. Here's another video of mine narrowing down the parts that can cause this problem. ruclips.net/video/fa0vKrLtqbA/видео.htmlsi=S44LP0aYMfTw62Yn
@@benclement3130 it definitely sounds 4WD vacuum related. It could be the IWE or it could just be a check valve or cracked vacuum line. I would use a vacuum pump to narrow it down. This is the one I use Mityvac MV8500 Vacuum & Pressure Tester - amzn.to/460K1HS
Hey Jacob. So my solenoid is creating suction in 2WD and stoping in 4H. When I turn my transfer case drive shaft both axels turn on both wheels. And when I put it into 4H they both lock up. I have not yet tried the lines to see if there is a Crack but I have no idea what it could be. Any other guess. Sorry for all the questions trying to pin it down and appreciate the help!!
Well that sounds stupid. You're normally operating in 2WD mode, so you would think that you would what the pressure to activate the 4W modes, and lack of pressure for 2WD. My wifes truck is a 17 501A 4X4 3.5L truck with 4A, where my truck is an 18 302A FX4 5L without 4A. (and my 03 Lightning as well) Hopeful they both continue to work fine, but my parents had a 97 and an 08 that both experienced 4X4 issues. I believe the 21+ trucks went to an electric actuator? You know Furds dumbarse dropped flex fuel on the 24 5L's, and added a GPF. (gas particulate filter) 😣
You would think if it failed it would be in 2WD but it's not the case. My theory behind it is if you have 4WD and happen to need it to get out of a situation it's a fail safe if the vacuum fails. For instance stuck on a beach with a rising tide, or forest fire or flash flooding. Odd that vacuum is still used to engage them though. I'm not sure on the new trucks but that would make sense to go electronic. Makes me wonder how well it would work in standing water and mud though. It's too bad they got rid of the flex fuel option, I fill up with E85 when I can find it and usually save $1 per gallon.
So very glad RUclips suggested your video! Have not experienced this issue yet on my 2015 F-150, but with your outstanding video/tutorial, I will not fear doing this job. Thanks for a great detailed video. Cheers from Motown/Dearborn!!
@robertclymer6948, Welcome to the channel, I'm glad you found my video helpful. I have several other videos related to diagnosing 4x4 vacuum issues if you ever have a problem check em out!
Hi Again! I am Definately Subscribing now. Jacob's unselfish giving his time and experience is something you don't find in many You Tube videos. Loved the Jacob and Ben back and forth comments. Learned a lot just from that alone. Thanks again Jacob, you are the man!!
@robertclymer6948, thank you for the comment and subscribe! Helping others is what this channel is about, let me know if you have any questions.
I haven't had to do this yet on my 2015, but this video gives me great confidence. Thank you.
I'm glad I could help out! It's not too hard just takes time to get to them.
Great video! Thanks
@@tonkatrk22 thank you!
Great videos, bro. Thank you for sharing them.
@@justinryan4450 thank you! I'm proud to help out
awesome video. thank you
Thank you for the comment! I'm glad to help out
Thank you for this!
@TheSigp220, glad I could help! Happy Thanksgiving!
I pulled mine off while doing my ball joints and Control arm. It looked gross in there, but I don’t see any worn out parts. I’ve cleaned it and could not figure out what type of lube to use. I do not do a whole lot of water crossings or any for that matter and very little off-road driving but it does see some mud. Will that grease be a good general purpose. Grease?
@ickess, great question! Don't go heavy on the actuators. I'm sure some general purpose synthetic grease would work fine. Ford recommends this high pressure grease Mobil XHP 222 for mud and water use. amzn.to/42vXaYj It's good to re-lube every 20,000miles or right after water crossings / mudding.
Thanks for the reply! I can safely say it’s never been done. Assuming it all goes well she’s gunna be a happy girl. New ball joints, tie rod ends, upper control arms and the actuators cleaned and lubed. Might take me a couple months worth of weekends though to do it all though.
@@ickess no problem. Yes I bet she will drive very smooth afterwards. I bet you could get it done in a weekend. Using an impact helps speed things up.
@@jacobsupgradesha, well…I worked on it last weekend. Got one control arm on and one ball joint. Had to order the tie rod ends after I found they are bad too. The trucks seen NY winters and driving on the beach so the rust is slowing me down. Now it needs to be lubed and put back together. Of course, once the new parts arrive. Crossing my fingers the driver side goes faster now that I’ve somewhat completed one side. Was definitely a nice surprise that I had to loosen and move the strut tower so that I can get to one of the control arm bolts. Poor design. Oh and the impact wrench helped a ton!
@@ickess Salt can wreak havoc on parts. I try and apply fluid film when I can to help prevent salt corrosion. I bet you'll be able to get the other side together much quicker. Having the parts helps too
Solid videos man
@chasemcrae8607, thank you!
Bro if I order it will come with both sides one i have to order twice?
@@wz6190, if you plan to replace both sides you need to order 2.
Great Video.
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful for you
I was told my actuater on my 150 is completely broken and sometimes makes a clunking sound when turning. Will it be safe to drive the truck until i can fix it?
@@brianseverson4570 I drove mine around for a little while until I could fix it. I would only drive it if you absolutely have to and wouldn't take it far. You don't want to mess anything else up with your drive line. It could tear up gears and grind up a CV if it's partially engaged.
What is the torque for the three 8 millimeters bolts holding the actuator?
9 ft/lbs I just snugged them up.
Thank you.
Hey Jacob. So I am getting this noise when I am doing 50mph. I have a 2018 xlt 5.0l Fx4. When I shift into 4h and do about 50 the noise goes away. When I shift back into 2h, the noise comes back. I have replaced both front wheel hubs assemblies and still nothing. Based on this information, could it be the IWE or something else. It is quite annoying lol P.S truck only has 61k
Could you describe the noise? It could be the IWE or it could be within the 4WD vacuum system. Here's another video of mine narrowing down the parts that can cause this problem. ruclips.net/video/fa0vKrLtqbA/видео.htmlsi=S44LP0aYMfTw62Yn
It is a whinning/growling noise gets louder when you speed up and quiter when you slow down. When I shift into 4 wheel drive the noise goes away.
@@benclement3130 it definitely sounds 4WD vacuum related. It could be the IWE or it could just be a check valve or cracked vacuum line. I would use a vacuum pump to narrow it down. This is the one I use Mityvac MV8500 Vacuum & Pressure Tester - amzn.to/460K1HS
Solenoid is good just checked creates suction in 2wd stops in 4H
Hey Jacob. So my solenoid is creating suction in 2WD and stoping in 4H. When I turn my transfer case drive shaft both axels turn on both wheels. And when I put it into 4H they both lock up. I have not yet tried the lines to see if there is a Crack but I have no idea what it could be. Any other guess. Sorry for all the questions trying to pin it down and appreciate the help!!
So how many pumps of grease?
@@BestowalPants90 1 or 2 pumps. You don't want to go overboard on the actuator side cause it can affect the vacuum engagement. Just a light coat.
@jacobsupgrades shouldn't it not effect the vacuum since it eliminates the vacuum system for the 4wd actuator?
@@BestowalPants90 Yes! But too much grease in there is not good is all I was getting at.
I will never buy another Ford.
@@garywilkerson6228 unless you buy an older vehicle with manual locking hubs they have to engage somehow.
Well that sounds stupid. You're normally operating in 2WD mode, so you would think that you would what the pressure to activate the 4W modes, and lack of pressure for 2WD. My wifes truck is a 17 501A 4X4 3.5L truck with 4A, where my truck is an 18 302A FX4 5L without 4A. (and my 03 Lightning as well) Hopeful they both continue to work fine, but my parents had a 97 and an 08 that both experienced 4X4 issues. I believe the 21+ trucks went to an electric actuator?
You know Furds dumbarse dropped flex fuel on the 24 5L's, and added a GPF. (gas particulate filter) 😣
You would think if it failed it would be in 2WD but it's not the case. My theory behind it is if you have 4WD and happen to need it to get out of a situation it's a fail safe if the vacuum fails. For instance stuck on a beach with a rising tide, or forest fire or flash flooding. Odd that vacuum is still used to engage them though.
I'm not sure on the new trucks but that would make sense to go electronic. Makes me wonder how well it would work in standing water and mud though.
It's too bad they got rid of the flex fuel option, I fill up with E85 when I can find it and usually save $1 per gallon.
Buy the delete kit and do away with these stupid ford actuators
@@johnnywilson7799 which brand do you recommend?