I think if you used an off-white base first, it would be more realistic; would have eliminated most of the sheen. But fun stuff for me to try if I move into a place where I can have a 3d printer by next fall.
For those doing 45mm or smaller miniatures, Citadel's Contrast Paint line for Skeleton Horde does a great job. There are other companies coming out with their own takes of this style of paint. Freakin awesome video by the way Uncle Jesse, love the 2 coats method and speckling was the brushing method for getting the small hits of darker spots.
i was J U S T searching for 3d printed bone tips for that exact dice tower! perfect timing, i guess. thank you for inspiring me to create my own 3d print farm. i just bought my first ender 3 and i am already looking forward to getting my hands on as many printers as i can! thank you for getting me into the maker space! your videos really inspired me to start printing on my own, and now there is absolutely no way im going back!
Jessy, an oil paint wash over an ivory and then bone color works great too. Spray with a gloss varnish. Then oil washes stay pliable for a while so you can choose when to wipe them. Followed by a dry brushing of bright white or whatever colors. Last spray a matte coat. At least that is my method.
Weathering jobs like this are easy when you think through the journey the irl item would have taken and paint to that. For example, bone would of started with with flash and blood so start by painting a dark red in the cracks a crevices and then work through the colors of rotten flesh and such and end with browns and umbers. Paint on and then wipe off through the different colors.
"Shadow Wash" that you can buy for tabletop miniatures (or make yourself at home much cheaper) contains wood stain. It also contains ink, transfer medium, solvent, and water. It works better than pure wood stain because it slips into cracks before it dries (due to the solvent) which brings out small details (such as teeth) while leaving flatter surfaces only lightly coated. If you make your own you can easily make enough of it for cheap to dunk your whole print at once and have it be inexpensive, and you can color it however you like, though you will have to figure out how to store it.
After using the "Golden Oak" stain, (and letting it dry thoroughly), you can lightly "drybrush" a layer or two of "Liquitex, Unbleached Titanium" over all the highpoints of your bone 3d prints. And then, to make it a little more durable, give it a coat or two of a matte or satin-finish spray varnish.
I do a lot of Halloween decor and make my own props. I was afraid to try this with PLA because I was worried the stain would accentuate the layer lines.
Those look great. With my experience using stains with wood, if you don't seal that, either with a matter clear coat or something similar, those colors tend to transfer to your skin forever. I would think that doing it on plastic would be even more so. No?
I would think that the primer would interfere with the ability of the stain to soak in to the plastic. Stains don't sit on the surface like paint, so you should need to prime the print first.
Hey boss, if you ever wanna try another way to give "ancient/fossil" look to your prints, i suggest to give a try at...dirt! I saw a video once about using water + some brown acrylic and real dirt to give realistic fossil look :P your way is ofc more fast, but the other is more...messy and so fun ahahahahah Check: "BIG 3D Printed T-Rex Skeleton" video from "RCLifeOn" (video time at around 2 mins) ;)
![Summer Walker - Heart Of A Woman [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SFddctbZzw8/mqdefault.jpg)
Found the Bone color PLA I used 🤘
Inland Bone White amzn.to/3zDfrFZ - affiliate link
You should use a matte varnish to seal everything in.
@@jtjames79 Ohhhh fantastic suggestion! I was thinking a quick matte spray paint
Did you ever get some Alumalite dyes? Wanna see what you print with them. These bones came out awesome too!
I think if you used an off-white base first, it would be more realistic; would have eliminated most of the sheen. But fun stuff for me to try if I move into a place where I can have a 3d printer by next fall.
When I printed my fossil replicas including the T-rex I used cheap acrylic burnt umber with water on bone/cream filament. They came out great.
For those doing 45mm or smaller miniatures, Citadel's Contrast Paint line for Skeleton Horde does a great job. There are other companies coming out with their own takes of this style of paint.
Freakin awesome video by the way Uncle Jesse, love the 2 coats method and speckling was the brushing method for getting the small hits of darker spots.
i was J U S T searching for 3d printed bone tips for that exact dice tower! perfect timing, i guess. thank you for inspiring me to create my own 3d print farm. i just bought my first ender 3 and i am already looking forward to getting my hands on as many printers as i can!
thank you for getting me into the maker space! your videos really inspired me to start printing on my own, and now there is absolutely no way im going back!
Jessy, an oil paint wash over an ivory and then bone color works great too. Spray with a gloss varnish. Then oil washes stay pliable for a while so you can choose when to wipe them. Followed by a dry brushing of bright white or whatever colors. Last spray a matte coat. At least that is my method.
Right on!! Some gold coins in that tower one would look amazing
I saw that dice tower the other day. It looks even better printed. Pretty awesome.
Weathering jobs like this are easy when you think through the journey the irl item would have taken and paint to that. For example, bone would of started with with flash and blood so start by painting a dark red in the cracks a crevices and then work through the colors of rotten flesh and such and end with browns and umbers. Paint on and then wipe off through the different colors.
scrape off bits of dark pastel chalk and apply lightly with a brush for easy shading effects
This is absolutely SICK, I love it. Great Vid Jessy. This is totally going on the to do list.
Heck yeah, just in time for Thanksgiving!
Lets be real, we're all printing things that can fit halloween aesthetic year round lol
🤣😂 I know right been struggling with Adobe premiere the past few days with this edit
@@UncleJessy Hey man, I'd watch a Christmas themed video if you posted it in July. 🖤
Those look really good, will have to try
Very nice. I like to use Acrylic Inks to stain "bones" or other materials.
looking real realistic and good!
The brown gel and small pot of dye are a leather antiquing gel and an alcohol based leather dye.
"Shadow Wash" that you can buy for tabletop miniatures (or make yourself at home much cheaper) contains wood stain. It also contains ink, transfer medium, solvent, and water. It works better than pure wood stain because it slips into cracks before it dries (due to the solvent) which brings out small details (such as teeth) while leaving flatter surfaces only lightly coated. If you make your own you can easily make enough of it for cheap to dunk your whole print at once and have it be inexpensive, and you can color it however you like, though you will have to figure out how to store it.
So have you heard anything about the tinymaker resin printer? I'm just curious of your thoughts
Dice tower is killer!
After using the "Golden Oak" stain, (and letting it dry thoroughly), you can lightly "drybrush" a layer or two of "Liquitex, Unbleached Titanium" over all the highpoints of your bone 3d prints. And then, to make it a little more durable, give it a coat or two of a matte or satin-finish spray varnish.
I do a lot of Halloween decor and make my own props. I was afraid to try this with PLA because I was worried the stain would accentuate the layer lines.
Those look great. With my experience using stains with wood, if you don't seal that, either with a matter clear coat or something similar, those colors tend to transfer to your skin forever. I would think that doing it on plastic would be even more so. No?
You are correct, you will need to seal it if you are going to handle it. I know from experience 😉
this is siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick!
"Vanilla Bean Ice Cream PLA" are not words I expect to hear in the same sentence...
Hahah love that filament color
I think that the lighter ones were far better - less was definitely more.
I seem to remember that forgers use tea to age things.
That’s exactly how I did it and I print a LOT of skulls for LARP props
Does the stain still feel tacky or does it dry ok?
It took 2 days for some of them to fully dry.
Would you sand your pla lines first?
Where is the STL for the FULL skull version of the planter?
YES! Where is the this model? Great video as always, Thanks!
Hey how do you do that in like you're doing in the video if the print is done in Black filament
what if i porinted it in black? can i just spraypaint it in white first?
Can you print a full-size skull helmet
mind removing that the manakin with the iron man helmet. please and thank you
Heya Jessy I commented about reusing ipa and cleaning it hope it helps
That looks so real you might have a few tough questions to answer if your traveling with them 🤣
How much for them hands?
i wish you used wood infused pla :p
So why didn’t you put one in the darth Vader helmet
why not prime first?
I would think that the primer would interfere with the ability of the stain to soak in to the plastic. Stains don't sit on the surface like paint, so you should need to prime the print first.
@@rebeltaz123 yah maybe so makes since, just this lines from printing takes away from the nice feel maybe some sanding was needed at least
@Uncle Jessy I Think I have found The way of cleaning IPA, I saw your video a from a year ago, dm me!
this wouldve been great exactly a month ago
Soak it in some coffee and I bet it would look good
💕👍
only for the garden lol
@DanaHowl: pale sand this fool!
Hey boss, if you ever wanna try another way to give "ancient/fossil" look to your prints, i suggest to give a try at...dirt!
I saw a video once about using water + some brown acrylic and real dirt to give realistic fossil look :P
your way is ofc more fast, but the other is more...messy and so fun ahahahahah
Check: "BIG 3D Printed T-Rex Skeleton" video from "RCLifeOn" (video time at around 2 mins) ;)
Whats wrong with your eye