Interesting. I had bad experiences with older SSK hard drive enclosures, but that was likely due to the Prolific controllers those used. I never knew they were still around and use better drive controllers these days!
I'm demanding a re test on this enclosure after 2 years of use, does it have any sort of technical issues after so long? My Orico USB NVMe adapter uses a RTL9210 controller and it'd already dying after 6 months of use. I'm highly disappointed
You screw it in from the back, and be careful not to loose any screws. Got it : ) Soo practical; except I'll probably be getting the thunderbolt, thanks for explaining.
Hello sir, I have these questions: 1) how much heating issue we face after we use couple of hours? 2) what is the performance of connection through USB A port? you didn't used that cable within your video, I was using 2013 iMac so I have only USB A ports to use.
How were the temps from sustained usage? I got one of the early 10gbps enclosures a few years ago and my 970 would constantly throttle when running a few vm's off it. Picked up a 1tb sandisk extreme pro portable on prime day a few days ago and feel it's much better in temps and sustained performance speeds. downside being no upgrade path or reusability other than as an external drive
It gets hot to the touch but suppose that means it's working well as a heatsink, haven't noticed any performance issues. At any rate, it can't be much worse than having the SSD internal to a laptop with limited airflow over it. That said, the SSD I'm using here isn't particularly high end. I wouldn't use this enclosure with an SSD that explicitly requires some sort of cooling.
I just got PRO variant recently and was thinking about whether I should put a 500 gig drive instead of 250 for a swiss knife of a thumb drive for many purposes, like storage, VMs, portable/bootable utilities and potentially external boot drive when I need it. Thx for the review, I think I want to go with 500, all the room for utility seems to be practical.
The thermal pad doesn't sit flush on my SSD, there's a large chip on the left side and small one on the right with the middle mostly empty. Is this okay? Will the pad still prevent the SSD from overheating? My SSD is a WD-Black SN750 SE.
Very good video. I needed some background and this video did it for me. Thank you. I just bought the same enclosure and looking forward to seeing if it works for me. All I want to do is clone my existing NVMe 256GB system disk and replace it with a 2TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus. I tried today with a Sabrent enclosure (EC-SNVE) but my Windows PC wouldn't recognize the cloned SSD as a system disk.
Great with a Mac, not for Windows. I built a setup with a Samsung SSD 980 and this SSK SHE-C325 - works well on a 2020 MacBook Pro, transferring around 850-900 MB/s. On Windows 10 though, the enclosure's JMicron controller (JMS562 ?) is screwy and writes always fail. Unless you use a USB2.0 cable and settle for speeds of around 38MB/s. Still looking for drivers that fix this.
I've added links to the description although the UK price is weirdly high at the moment. It's just a cheap PNY CS2030 that's a couple of years old, there's probably better options out there nowadays.
The question is, how long will the NVMe SSD be able to hold full speed until thermal throttling, which will happen, as the casing is not enough of a heatsink to cool an NVMe.
It'll majorly depend on the SSD. I wouldn't go using a super high performance SSD designed for desktop use with a heatsink however a lot of NVMe drives are designed for laptop use where the drive doesn't really get any sort of special cooling.
This wouldn't work as the controller is only designed to convert drives to USB. It may be possible using a thunderbolt enclosure if you're lucky though
Don't put an NVME SSD in one of these little boxes if you plan on using it at all. They don't disappate the heat well enough. Manufaturers found this out quick enough and they are now produced with little fans inside and work 5 times better.
It really comes down to the SSD you're using, some NVMe drives are designed to be used in laptops where there isn't really any airflow so those would be fine although I definitely wouldn't be fitting some sort of super high performance drive designed for desktop use that require some sort of heatsink.
When you ommit the words usb and thunderbolt in the title, it leads some people to think you're talking about a SFP+ port by just looking at that 10gbps.
I tried with another external m.2 pcie enclosure to boot my own windows installion from, but with no luck ... Does this enclosure work 100% on a windows 10 laptop as a BOOTDRIVE?
Windows doesn't officially support booting from USB media unlike MacOS and Linux, there's potentially unofficial workarounds but those may run into issues around licensing. The only official method was "Windows To Go" however this is only available under Windows 10 Enterprise which itself is only available through volume licensing. Windows To Go has also apparently been deprecated as of May 2020.
@@camerongray1515 Thanks for the reply. Well, last week I boot my Asus UX laptop with an external enclosure which had a 2,5 inch samsung HDD in it with luck,.
Thank you for video! I helped me ensure I put this together correctly! I bought this because my laptop crashed, dead motherboard I think. I was told to remove the SSD drive and buy this so that I could retrieve the data that was on the SSD drive. I have the SSK put together. When I go to disk management it wants me to initialize the drive. I am afraid that in doing this I will lose the data on the SSD. Can anyone help? I am a total computer novice, BTW. :) It wants me to choose a partition style: MBR, GPT...??? Thank you!
Yeah, definitely don't initialise it! What sort of machine is the drive from and what sort of machine are you connecting it to? In particular, what operating systems is was the drive used with previously vs what are you trying to read it on? A Windows machine won't be able to read a Mac drive for example.
Assuming both of those machines were running Windows then the operating system shouldn't be an issue then! Does it show any partitions in disk management? May need to right click it and tell it to assign a drive letter to the partition. What did the HP start doing when it failed? It's possible that the drive was the problem hence why it's not working now. Are you aware of having any sort of encryption enabled on the HP, may have been called Bitlocker? This could make it a bit trickier to recover.
@@camerongray1515 Thank you so much for helping me. Again, I am a TOTAL novice! Yes, it shows at the top (in list format) Disk 0 partition 1 100 MB capacity 100% free Disk 0 partition 3 467 MB capacity 100% free Below that is shows: Disk 0 ( I think this is my laptop disk, perhaps?) Disk 1 (removable 14.42 GB) CPBA_S64FRE (D:) 14.42 GB FAT32 Healthy (Primary Partician)
Interesting, so, the CPBA_S64FRE looks to be a Windows installer drive, do you have any sort of Windows installer USB stick inserted? To work out which drive is your external one you can try unplugging it, looking at what drives show up then plugging it in, any drive that shows up will be your external one. Also worth seeing if it shows up on a different machine if you have access to one. If you're still unable to get it to show up, it may be worth seeing if you can find a local technician/computer store that you can drop the drive into, should be a 5 minute job for them to check if the drive is in fact working or if there's a more serious problem which could hamper recovery.
SAS? What sort of device are you connecting to? SAS isn't designed for portable devices such as this, external SAS connectors are designed for connecting to large disk arrays. At any rate, currently the fastest widely available standard is SAS-3 which maxes out at 12gbps so still not fast enough for this drive, SAS-4 is faster but is yet to be widely available. To get the full speed of an NVMe drive in an enclosure similar to this, you'd need to look at Thunderbolt 3.
@@camerongray1515 I need to be able to swap the OS drive out for security reasons(offline scan) and to support multiboot. I am looking at a SFF-8639 cable to a NVME adapter and then this internal dock. www.amazon.com/dp/B082LQ7NDF/ SFF-8639 cable www.amazon.com/dp/B0716K357W/ And this to get the signal to the cable. www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2PXUQA/
@@camerongray1515 Since all it has is signal drivers the system does not know it's there. Here is another option I found. www.amazon.com/ICY-DOCK-Removable-Mobile-Expansion/dp/B08DF86P46
"a very quick video" hmm yes 24 minutes is pretty quick for a Cameron Grey video
thanks for the quick 24 minute video
I have this drive enclosure. It is a little hard to assemble. But it WORKS very well.
Thats double sided tissue tape, not a thermal pad. Might want to replace that to improve thermals and extend the life of that nvme
Careful ordering the "Thunderbolt" units. Lots are advertised as such but are just USB 3.2
Interesting. I had bad experiences with older SSK hard drive enclosures, but that was likely due to the Prolific controllers those used. I never knew they were still around and use better drive controllers these days!
Interesting, yeah, with things like this it's mostly down to the controller, the "brand" only really does basic assembly and case design stuff.
I'm demanding a re test on this enclosure after 2 years of use, does it have any sort of technical issues after so long?
My Orico USB NVMe adapter uses a RTL9210 controller and it'd already dying after 6 months of use. I'm highly disappointed
The rubber bit on top is hanger for display storage purposes in a shop
I was just about to say the same thing.
You screw it in from the back, and be careful not to loose any screws. Got it : ) Soo practical; except I'll probably be getting the thunderbolt, thanks for explaining.
Hello sir, I have these questions: 1) how much heating issue we face after we use couple of hours? 2) what is the performance of connection through USB A port? you didn't used that cable within your video, I was using 2013 iMac so I have only USB A ports to use.
Decent video one for techies.
Great Video.
FWIW your SHE-C325 has the JMS583, but the newer SHE-C325 Pro (USB 3.2/Gen2) has the RTK9210BR.
How you differentiate without opening it up? (Is pro written on it?)
@@horeageorgian7766 they have different model numbers.
@@XGempler Thanks. More exactly?
@@horeageorgian7766 i detailed the different model number in my initial post. don't see how repeating that again will help anyone. /plonk.
@@XGempler Sorry, did not see that. Still not a reason you use expressions you dont know their significance and background (plonk).
Well done and informative review. Thank you.
Do they make usb 3.2 get 2x2 enclosures yet?
2242 version of this would look even better
How were the temps from sustained usage? I got one of the early 10gbps enclosures a few years ago and my 970 would constantly throttle when running a few vm's off it. Picked up a 1tb sandisk extreme pro portable on prime day a few days ago and feel it's much better in temps and sustained performance speeds. downside being no upgrade path or reusability other than as an external drive
It gets hot to the touch but suppose that means it's working well as a heatsink, haven't noticed any performance issues. At any rate, it can't be much worse than having the SSD internal to a laptop with limited airflow over it. That said, the SSD I'm using here isn't particularly high end. I wouldn't use this enclosure with an SSD that explicitly requires some sort of cooling.
I just got PRO variant recently and was thinking about whether I should put a 500 gig drive instead of 250 for a swiss knife of a thumb drive for many purposes, like storage, VMs, portable/bootable utilities and potentially external boot drive when I need it. Thx for the review, I think I want to go with 500, all the room for utility seems to be practical.
Did I remember correctly that you have a laptop provided by your company?
Why do you want to use your own device?
I do have a work laptop which I'll still use occasionally but it's Windows and I much prefer working on MacOS.
The thermal pad doesn't sit flush on my SSD, there's a large chip on the left side and small one on the right with the middle mostly empty. Is this okay? Will the pad still prevent the SSD from overheating? My SSD is a WD-Black SN750 SE.
Why am I watching the mounting part?
Very good video. I needed some background and this video did it for me. Thank you. I just bought the same enclosure and looking forward to seeing if it works for me. All I want to do is clone my existing NVMe 256GB system disk and replace it with a 2TB Samsung 970 EVO Plus. I tried today with a Sabrent enclosure (EC-SNVE) but my Windows PC wouldn't recognize the cloned SSD as a system disk.
Can you get data that you lost, with windows and use the SSK M.2 SSD adapter?
is it compatible with m.2 sata have you tested it ?
Great with a Mac, not for Windows.
I built a setup with a Samsung SSD 980 and this SSK SHE-C325 - works well on a 2020 MacBook Pro, transferring around 850-900 MB/s. On Windows 10 though, the enclosure's JMicron controller (JMS562 ?) is screwy and writes always fail. Unless you use a USB2.0 cable and settle for speeds of around 38MB/s. Still looking for drivers that fix this.
Rhat explains why I could not complete a clone of my internal nvme to external ssk nvme using Windows based software like Macrium Reflect.
Great video can u link to the drive you used please? You only linked the caddy?
I've added links to the description although the UK price is weirdly high at the moment. It's just a cheap PNY CS2030 that's a couple of years old, there's probably better options out there nowadays.
@@camerongray1515 thankyou
nice video
How much for the diy enclosure in total?
The question is, how long will the NVMe SSD be able to hold full speed until thermal throttling, which will happen, as the casing is not enough of a heatsink to cool an NVMe.
It'll majorly depend on the SSD. I wouldn't go using a super high performance SSD designed for desktop use with a heatsink however a lot of NVMe drives are designed for laptop use where the drive doesn't really get any sort of special cooling.
Is it possible to connect an external GPU adapter to this NVME adapter (supposing the male and female slots match)?
This wouldn't work as the controller is only designed to convert drives to USB. It may be possible using a thunderbolt enclosure if you're lucky though
11:11 I think it would be better if you take off the sticker on ssd itself, for better heat transfer..
It can void warranty. Some stickers are actually heat spreaders.
Don't put an NVME SSD in one of these little boxes if you plan on using it at all. They don't disappate the heat well enough. Manufaturers found this out quick enough and they are now produced with little fans inside and work 5 times better.
It really comes down to the SSD you're using, some NVMe drives are designed to be used in laptops where there isn't really any airflow so those would be fine although I definitely wouldn't be fitting some sort of super high performance drive designed for desktop use that require some sort of heatsink.
Me taking out the drill.
When you ommit the words usb and thunderbolt in the title, it leads some people to think you're talking about a SFP+ port by just looking at that 10gbps.
Oops, totally thought I'd put it in there, must have lost it in the sea of acronyms! That's it in there now!
Is it possible to place a Windows 10 installer on this and use it to install Win 10 on other computers with this "thumb drive"?
Certainly...
Brass and gold (plating) ≠ copper
Do you do speed reading by any chance?😂
I tried with another external m.2 pcie enclosure to boot my own windows installion from, but with no luck ... Does this enclosure work 100% on a windows 10 laptop as a BOOTDRIVE?
Windows doesn't officially support booting from USB media unlike MacOS and Linux, there's potentially unofficial workarounds but those may run into issues around licensing. The only official method was "Windows To Go" however this is only available under Windows 10 Enterprise which itself is only available through volume licensing. Windows To Go has also apparently been deprecated as of May 2020.
@@camerongray1515 Thanks for the reply. Well, last week I boot my Asus UX laptop with an external enclosure which had a 2,5 inch samsung HDD in it with luck,.
Copper = red, brass = yellow.
My God the screw method is the worst method I have ever seen
what program are you using to wipe it?
This is a late response, but he's using Disk Utility which is a native app on MacOs.
Thank you for video! I helped me ensure I put this together correctly! I bought this because my laptop crashed, dead motherboard I think. I was told to remove the SSD drive and buy this so that I could retrieve the data that was on the SSD drive. I have the SSK put together. When I go to disk management it wants me to initialize the drive. I am afraid that in doing this I will lose the data on the SSD. Can anyone help? I am a total computer novice, BTW. :)
It wants me to choose a partition style: MBR, GPT...???
Thank you!
Yeah, definitely don't initialise it! What sort of machine is the drive from and what sort of machine are you connecting it to? In particular, what operating systems is was the drive used with previously vs what are you trying to read it on? A Windows machine won't be able to read a Mac drive for example.
@@camerongray1515 Hi! Thank you for your help! the SSD came out an HP laptop and I'm trying to use it with a Dell. Is that enough info?
Assuming both of those machines were running Windows then the operating system shouldn't be an issue then! Does it show any partitions in disk management? May need to right click it and tell it to assign a drive letter to the partition. What did the HP start doing when it failed? It's possible that the drive was the problem hence why it's not working now. Are you aware of having any sort of encryption enabled on the HP, may have been called Bitlocker? This could make it a bit trickier to recover.
@@camerongray1515 Thank you so much for helping me. Again, I am a TOTAL novice!
Yes, it shows at the top (in list format)
Disk 0 partition 1 100 MB capacity 100% free
Disk 0 partition 3 467 MB capacity 100% free
Below that is shows:
Disk 0 ( I think this is my laptop disk, perhaps?)
Disk 1 (removable 14.42 GB) CPBA_S64FRE (D:)
14.42 GB FAT32
Healthy (Primary Partician)
Interesting, so, the CPBA_S64FRE looks to be a Windows installer drive, do you have any sort of Windows installer USB stick inserted? To work out which drive is your external one you can try unplugging it, looking at what drives show up then plugging it in, any drive that shows up will be your external one. Also worth seeing if it shows up on a different machine if you have access to one. If you're still unable to get it to show up, it may be worth seeing if you can find a local technician/computer store that you can drop the drive into, should be a 5 minute job for them to check if the drive is in fact working or if there's a more serious problem which could hamper recovery.
I am looking for a SAS cartage to get the full 4x Edit: SFF-8639
SAS? What sort of device are you connecting to? SAS isn't designed for portable devices such as this, external SAS connectors are designed for connecting to large disk arrays. At any rate, currently the fastest widely available standard is SAS-3 which maxes out at 12gbps so still not fast enough for this drive, SAS-4 is faster but is yet to be widely available. To get the full speed of an NVMe drive in an enclosure similar to this, you'd need to look at Thunderbolt 3.
@@camerongray1515 I need to be able to swap the OS drive out for security reasons(offline scan) and to support multiboot. I am looking at a SFF-8639 cable to a NVME adapter and then this internal dock. www.amazon.com/dp/B082LQ7NDF/
SFF-8639 cable www.amazon.com/dp/B0716K357W/
And this to get the signal to the cable. www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2PXUQA/
That could work assuming no weird compatibility issues, although you're not using SAS in that scenario.
@@camerongray1515 Since all it has is signal drivers the system does not know it's there. Here is another option I found. www.amazon.com/ICY-DOCK-Removable-Mobile-Expansion/dp/B08DF86P46
Assuming the board is happy to boot from a PCIe slot, I'd probably to with that second option - less connections and cables so less to go wrong.
First
you talk too much