brother you are a life saver. I had changed the thermopile and put in a new switch and was getting the 5 flashes. I went from pilot not staying on to pilot on but no lighted burner. I followed your instructions and as soon as I used the magnet...boom burner worked. Thanks a million...... many likes for your video... :)
Thank you so much for this video you’re a lifesaver after removing the red wire and the white wire perform the reset and started to work perfectly fine
Took the cover off, did the magnet thing, that didn't work. Where did I put the magnet all over the damn place, felt stupid after that. Lol One thing i did notice is there was condensation on the circuit board right behind the cover. I unplugged a small 2 wire plug from the board.I unscrewed the circuit board and theres 3 tabs holding the board, I took the board inside and used a hair dryer to dry out the board front and back put it all back together and it works again. So if it wasn't for the " Use the Magnet trick" I would of never fixed mine. So thanks for your vid. Hope this helps for anyone else with the 5 Flash of Death.
thank you for your post , my tank does'nt heat up beyond 125* with this 5 flash code , pulled the wires like you said , plugged err back in , did a relight , cranked up over setting c,,, and away she went , I'll be keeping an eye on it , pray that it holds up , next step is the magnet scottie o tool handyman rochester ny
The magnet is great advice! After replacing the igniter (see a different video). I too got the dreaded 5 flashing LED. I used a flat screwdriver to gently pry open the cover. I ran a smaller magnet over the inside circuit board 4 times. Holding it 1/2” away without touching it. I made sure all the wires were in place and put the cover back. Next I restarted the pilot and it fired right up! 🧲
Is there any other way to discharge the memory? I unplugged and it was fine for 5 minutes and went back to the 5 blinks. I then unplugged overnight and in the morning tried again. It went into normal operation for anywhere between 15 and 30 minutes and back to the 5 blinks again. What else can I try or do I need to call a plumber to replace the valve?
can you please explain or create another video of you "running the magnet" so we can understand what exactly youre doing. also should it be unplugged all the way, like cut off on the fuse box??????
You definitely got lucky,from what Ive researched these things crack inside because they are plastic and once that happens gotta get a new entire valve,sucks big time.
I am curious if the water heater has stayed working since you posted the video? My unit started having the exact same issue and while I haven't called customer support yet, I am curious about yours.
Needless to say if you have any doubts into your ability to properly service your water heater... Call a professional. It's not worth ruining your property or life. Here are my comments. So what was the root cause of the problem that would be resolved with the pacemaker magnet? If your hypothesis is the gas valve is sticky and that's what caused the problem, I'd be inclined to replace the whole unit Better safe than sorry. I came across this video while researching the problem my water heater has. It's also blinking five times, but I'm fortunate enough that I can shut the control all the way off, wait 10 minutes, and then relight and it heat the tank back up. The unit appears to cycle normally, and still indicates no error codes when the burner shuts off, then begins showing the code again a few minutes later. If you Google "residential_gas_natural_atmospheric_vent_mi_defender_prior_naeca_archived_servicemanual_44943d.pdf", this document suggests the entire assembly can be separated and inspected without removing the backing plate from the water heater. I think my plan will be to see if this can be done, while also inspecting the condition of the anode and tank. I'd hate to sink a bunch of money into something that's at the end of its life span (at the time of writing, my State water heater is about 7 years old. 6 year warranty of course. :) )
Hey Jerry - thank you for the link for the service manual! With it I was able to verify that the water temperature and the sensor resistance were in line and found out that my problem was with a loose cable at the board (that tricolored one). So by pushing it further into the board connector, it worked and resolved the 5-blink code. By the way, I had bought an entire new valve (1500, for the 2in-thick insulation) but just used its new board assy with the front plastic panel on top of my old metal valve (got lazy and didn't want to reinstall the whole valve body). As a result, I have a brand new valve body looking for a home, if you need it.
brother you are a life saver. I had changed the thermopile and put in a new switch and was getting the 5 flashes. I went from pilot not staying on to pilot on but no lighted burner. I followed your instructions and as soon as I used the magnet...boom burner worked. Thanks a million...... many likes for your video... :)
What exactly did you do with the magnet once you had the cover off?
@@drake5084 basically tap the magnet on the board inside a few times.. There are two contacts that should click when you are done.
Video much…?
Thank you so much for this video you’re a lifesaver after removing the red wire and the white wire perform the reset and started to work perfectly fine
Took the cover off, did the magnet thing, that didn't work. Where did I put the magnet all over the damn place, felt stupid after that. Lol
One thing i did notice is there was condensation on the circuit board right behind the cover. I unplugged a small 2 wire plug from the board.I unscrewed the circuit board and theres 3 tabs holding the board, I took the board inside and used a hair dryer to dry out the board front and back put it all back together and it works again. So if it wasn't for the " Use the Magnet trick" I would of never fixed mine. So thanks for your vid. Hope this helps for anyone else with the 5 Flash of Death.
thank you for your post , my tank does'nt heat up beyond 125* with this 5 flash code , pulled the wires like you said , plugged err back in , did a relight , cranked up over setting c,,, and away she went , I'll be keeping an eye on it , pray that it holds up , next step is the magnet scottie o tool handyman rochester ny
Video of you doing all that would have been nice…
Thanks for the video!
Hometown: Philadelphia PA
Favorite food: Milksteak
Hobbies: Magnets
Likes: Ghouls
Dislikes: people's knees
You sir are a effing genius
right? LOL
@@maronsp lmfao 😂 ya know that's right
Did you touch the circuit board contacts with the magnet? not sure what happened behind the cover , ?
What does the magnet do ?
Hey Thanks for the info...Where do you get a magnet like that? And how did you use the magnet on the control? What exactly did you do?
The magnet is great advice! After replacing the igniter (see a different video). I too got the dreaded 5 flashing LED. I used a flat screwdriver to gently pry open the cover. I ran a smaller magnet over the inside circuit board 4 times. Holding it 1/2” away without touching it. I made sure all the wires were in place and put the cover back. Next I restarted the pilot and it fired right up! 🧲
Is there any other way to discharge the memory? I unplugged and it was fine for 5 minutes and went back to the 5 blinks. I then unplugged overnight and in the morning tried again. It went into normal operation for anywhere between 15 and 30 minutes and back to the 5 blinks again. What else can I try or do I need to call a plumber to replace the valve?
You ran magnet on small board behind cover or on actual gas valve
Gonna try this... my POS is doing the same thing, 5 flashes for the temp sensor, my burner only comes on when the tank gets low when water is used
Mines doing the same shit man how did you fix yours
hey bud did u ever fix ur water heater mine is doing the same thing and cant find the issue
@@johnatansanchez2298 just changed the flame igniter and it's still throwing 5 flashes
can you please explain or create another video of you "running the magnet" so we can understand what exactly youre doing. also should it be unplugged all the way, like cut off on the fuse box??????
Those don’t run off of fuse box
@@newbtuber3343 thank you. I eventually figured out it was gas powered.😊
Do I unplugged the red wire before I wave the magnet
The 5 flash’s started today on my honey, is it expensive to fix?
I’m following the video, but after you said you took the plastic cover off, what exactly did you hold the magnet up or on to?
You definitely got lucky,from what Ive researched these things crack inside because they are plastic and once that happens gotta get a new entire valve,sucks big time.
Hi i keep getting the 5 flashes i change the burner assembly kit completely and i still got the same problem what could be the issue?
Thermistor is out of ohm temp sensor
I'm having the 6 blinks, replace burner code
People , replace your valve , the thermistor = water temp sensor is bad $150 amazon
I am curious if the water heater has stayed working since you posted the video? My unit started having the exact same issue and while I haven't called customer support yet, I am curious about yours.
Yes it still has been works perfectly fine for me
@@stainandnailschannel1774 Thanks for the reply. I am going to try the same thing with mine and see if it helps in any way.
Eric Willard did it work??
But where did you put the magnet?
yeah hes very broad with it.
magnets LOL
Redman?!
I have a thermal fues with a button that won't push in. I have 5 blinks
Me too did you fix it yet?
Needless to say if you have any doubts into your ability to properly service your water heater... Call a professional. It's not worth ruining your property or life.
Here are my comments.
So what was the root cause of the problem that would be resolved with the pacemaker magnet? If your hypothesis is the gas valve is sticky and that's what caused the problem, I'd be inclined to replace the whole unit Better safe than sorry.
I came across this video while researching the problem my water heater has. It's also blinking five times, but I'm fortunate enough that I can shut the control all the way off, wait 10 minutes, and then relight and it heat the tank back up. The unit appears to cycle normally, and still indicates no error codes when the burner shuts off, then begins showing the code again a few minutes later.
If you Google "residential_gas_natural_atmospheric_vent_mi_defender_prior_naeca_archived_servicemanual_44943d.pdf", this document suggests the
entire assembly can be separated and inspected without removing the backing plate from the water heater. I think my plan will be to see if this can be done, while also inspecting the condition of the anode and tank. I'd hate to sink a bunch of money into something that's at the end of its life span (at the time of writing, my State water heater is about 7 years old. 6 year warranty of course. :) )
Hey Jerry - thank you for the link for the service manual! With it I was able to verify that the water temperature and the sensor resistance were in line and found out that my problem was with a loose cable at the board (that tricolored one). So by pushing it further into the board connector, it worked and resolved the 5-blink code.
By the way, I had bought an entire new valve (1500, for the 2in-thick insulation) but just used its new board assy with the front plastic panel on top of my old metal valve (got lazy and didn't want to reinstall the whole valve body). As a result, I have a brand new valve body looking for a home, if you need it.
Smh
And there goes your warranty if you had one