This may be tht first time I've come across a DIY video that not only addressed my exact problem but also made each step as clear as possible. I was able to replace my valve without any issues, and only 3 extra trips to the plumbing store. Thanks for this!
Thank you very much for this video! I am a single mom and first time home owner. I was quoted an outrageous amount for this repair. I ordered a new gas valve (exact same) from Amazon for 140.00 and used your video as a guide. I saved hundreds of dollars. We all had hot showers tonight and everyone is happy.
If she does not see this, I do show the part number to order in this video. If I remember correctly, I think it is around the 10 minute mark. But I am not positive about that.
Thank you so much for making this video. I was able to get the part over-nighted and replaced it with almost no trouble (getting the plastic base plate off was the hardest part, but the method you describe in another reply worked well for me!). I really appreciate that you described everything step by step and explained they "why." I haven't worked with gas pipes before, so I had no idea about yellow Teflon tape. Needless to say, I now have my own yellow roll. People like you are what make the internet great!
Thank you so much for the AWESOME FEEDBACK and comment! And thank you for checking out the video/channel! I am happy this worked out well for you and you were able to get yourself "back in hot water"... oh the bad dad jokes! 🤣😂
Having the same problem but unable to find somewhere to purchase the product asap. Where did you find the part available that will do overnight delivery?
Sorry you are having issues. Not sure where you live, but I went to a local Plumbing supply to buy mine. This is not like a typical hardware store. This would be more along the lines of where Plumbers buy their repair items. The website is a little out of date, but they may be able to ship to you. www.artsplumbing.com/
I tackled this today. My biggest problem was breaking the union-- had to go track down a second pipe wrench. Glad I read through all the comments on these videos-- I did not drain the tank, and although my unit came with the new igniter kit I opted not to replace it for now. All of the wires and tubes from my 10 year old pilot/igniter assembly matched up just fine to the new unit. I already had some familiarity with pulling the burner assembly from following a different video on cleaning out the filter, so overall things went very fast once I got the union apart. I find with the new unit it needs to be set to at least "high" or it will only heat to literally "warm." Just a quick impression, didn't stay to watch it over time, waiting to hear what the tenants say (or don't say.) Thanks for this video and all the helpful comments. One thing I would offer is that a nut driver is pretty much essential for the burner assembly pate, but I failed to note which size I used. sorry. Edit-- had to be set above "high" before the tenants declared it "back to normal." I suspect they game the settings to meet efficiency standards and the new "high" equals the old "B" setting.
Thanks for this in depth "how to" video. I just completed the job just in time to have hot water for my holiday guests! You provided the confidence to do job this myself. $140 for the Gas Valve + $30 for the 4' flex gas pipe + $2 for the gas (yellow) Teflon sealing tape. That's $172 vs the $600 quote for the job. Which they tried to up-sell me to replace the entire (8yrs old) water heater for $1200!!! :-) Your time documenting this was well spent! THANK YOU!!!!! Happy holidays! Steve
@legosteveb So happy this helped! I love making videos that can benefit people. Also happy it gave you some confidence and saved you a bunch cash! Especially during the holidays!
A big thanks for this video! We had the same issue with our Bradford White. Without this video I would not have been able to fix it. Running smooth and finally have hot water again.
First time home owner. I have the exact same tank and honeywell, and this was exactyl what I needed. Thank you. I think I will have a project to do this weekend.
@@therep49er Any tips for getting that black back piece off? (8 Min mark). I am trying to twist it off and it's like Thor himself put it on. I'm trying to turn (counterclockwise) as hard as I can and my fingers are bleeding.
@@therep49er I have finished! Biggest hang ups were removing the old units back plate and removing the pipes from the old unit. Then figuring out where the gas smell was seeping from (bottom of new unit, needed another half turn on the gas line). Thank you so much for doing this video. You have saved the fiancé and I a bunch of money as we save for the wedding. I wouldn't have been able to tackle this confidently without your video. Thank you again!
Thank you for this video. I was able to fix my water heater and save a couple thousand dollars. I did what you did and replaced the whole part and not just the sensor.
Thank you for this video... This is exactly what was wrong with my water heater... Part order and swapped thanks to your video. Really appreciate the assistance!!!!
Katie, my apologies on the late reply! Not sure why I did not see this until now. But I am glad it worked well for you! Thank you so much for the kind words and for stopping by the channel!
Great video. Thanks for the information. And gas teflon tape does come in white. I don't know if the stores just carry it in yellow to help the average joe tell the difference. But as a long time service technician for a gas company, all are gas teflon tape is white.
Watched this video... It helped me tremendously, but the relief valve did not reseal, had to tap it with a hammer (a big no no) to get it to reseal. That said, Thanks so much for the video! I will open the faucet next time if needed.
@@chrisgudiel2915 Hi Chris, I will check it when I get home and send you a link, it was a website that I haven't ever been to before because it was cheaper than Ebay and Amazon. More to come...
@@eugenegarrett1156 RUclips is a bit finicky. I don't think it will allow you to post an actual link. If you don't mind posting the link in a way that it won't come out as a link but is easy to identify... maybe leave the ".com" off?
@@eugenegarrett1156 idk why the hell it keeps dropping your comment. I keep getting the notification you comment. Then it tells me it is no longer available.
It actually does both my friend. Teflon tape, often referred to as plumber's tape, is a type of thread sealant and lubricant used to prevent leaks and keep threads from seizing. It was originally used by the military to help machinery run more smoothly by reducing friction between moving parts.
Thanks for the Video it was very helpful, If anyone has LP (liquid Propane) Part # 415-52909-01. Also I found that if you mont the left side of the front door 1st, then you can see under the heater and mont the burner into the metal support slot inside the heater. once the burner is lined up then you can easily attach then burner to the control Valve, then bolt up the right side of the door.
Very good demonstrative video, thanks! Our bradford white gas heater is 12 years old, do you think it would be worth just replacing the total unit with a new total unit?
Thank you for the feedback and for checking out the video! At 12 years old, it is kind of hit/miss. Lots of variables. Type piping in the house, well or city supply water, hard water or water with softners added ect. But, if you are working with a budget that does not allow for a full replacement, and the tank is not leaking or otherwise damaged, then fixing what is needed and trying to get another a few more years out of it is always an option.
I've been thorugh the video twice and am planning to tackle this tomorrow. 2 questions kind sir: 1) Do I have to use the new igniter kit, or will the old wiring connect to the new controller unit? 2) If I'm not planning to pull or replace the sensor, only swapping out the new controller unit for the old one- no reason to take the face off of the old controller, right?
@@justinlonghofer i found the well sensor and replaced, but it only lasted a couple weeks for frying the new sensor again (I'll see if I can find the number). I ended up ordering and replaced the whole thing and it's been good since.
I watched most of your video and wanted to say thanks for all the info! I do have a question though. If your fault was in the gas control valve why did you swap the burner assembly as well? Was it just one of those "I'm pulling this all apart anyways might as well swap this too"
I did not swap the burner. Just the well sensor. The burner assembly is lower (pretty much the bottom of the tank). But, sometimes if it makes sense to swap multiple components, and it is cost effective, no harm in that. Example. If everything I did for the well sensor exposed the burner and the burner looked like it might need to be replaced soon. And, I would have to disconnect the same things as the well sensor again to do the burner, then I would do both the sensor and the burner at the same time and avoid a future repair.
@@therep49ervery analogous to when you have a bearing or something go out in your clutch. You have to take apart the entire assembly so might as well replace all the guts
Not sure why I am just seeing this. I know you have already completed the repair. But, the video is a few years old. Very possible that region or inflation could play a factor in the cost of the parts now.
Also can you remind me about the union-- it's not backwards threaded? And.... will the gas pipes line up on the replacement unit just like on the bad one>
The union is NOT reverse thread. As long as you buy the proper replacement part, everything should line up properly. You should not need to buy any additional gas pipe. But, watch the video, I detailed all of the questions you have asked already, and some other tips to help you along the way.
@@herbiecactus6687 no problem! I can't recall anything else. But I did this repair 2+ years ago haha. I have not had to replace another one since then though!
So I just installed my new one and the skinny tube with copper fitting under the valve was leaking very minimum but enough to pop micro bubbles and smell a little. I tightened it couple more times but it still didn't seal. I replaced the whole pilot assembly like 2 years ago so I decided to leave the old one instead of installing the whole new kit. Should I just install the new kit or do you have any tricks on how to seal it? Is it ok to put gas Teflon around those threads?
You can try teflon tape. But, if I am understanding correctly (forgive as I currently attempting to go to sleep lol), it sounds like this small tube is part of the main assembly. That would lead me to think it may not have had thorough enough quality checks. I would send it back for a replacement and get the properly functioning part I paid for.
@@therep49er thanks-- looks like everything is out in the video. I just pulled the whole mess to clean the filter 2 days ago but unfortunately that was not my fix.
I had a code 8-3 (or is it 8-4, sorry) showing and replaced the gas valve and ignitor parts. And it worked for a few days now and is throwing the same code. Can it be something else like the well thermistor or no... Thanks... going down to play with it now... fun... great video, SUBSCRIBED
I am not sure without seeing your actual unit and fault codes. But I have found that the fault codes on the newer units are pretty dependable and accurate for telling us what is wrong. Does your unit have a decent list of troubleshooting/fault codes on the side of the tank?
I posted the replacement part number I used in the video. I can't remember which I searched. But I ended up getting the part at a plumbing supply company.
My Waterheater is 10 years old, do you just recommend replacing the part or get a new water heater? I was quoted to replace thermal well sensor $650 ouch and new tank $2500. Plumber said he doesn't recommend just replacing the part (of course its better to get $2500 than $650).
They say water heaters are only good for around 10 - 12 years. But, if you are a handy guy, you can swap the whole tank yourself in a few hours. You just need the right tools and a little guidance. If you swap it yourself, you should be able to do EVERYTHING including maybe needing to buy a tool or two for under $1000.
Ginny Lapore Hello! Sorry you are having issues. I know this sounds dumb. But, make sure you are turning it counterclockwise to remove. As long as you are turning it counterclockwise, that is the right direction. Next, it may be very tough to turn! It may have been in there 10+ years. So, it can get very difficult. If you have a large pipe wrench or large channel locks, those tools can help you get better grip and more leverage to turn the piece. I believe I was using channel locks? Blue handle. If you don't have either of those and have a drill and long screwdriver, you can drill two holes in the plastic straight across from each other. Then put the screwdriver through the holes and turn the screwdriver like a hatch door or safe door. That will also give you more leverage. You won't be reusing that plastic piece of you bought a hole new unit. Hopefully I made sense with that explanation. You got this! If you made it this far, you can and will get it finished! It gets frustrating, but you will get it!
That's AWESOME! Glad you are good to go! Thanks so much for checking out the video/channel! I am doing more woodworking/carving videos in the future. If that strikes your interest, please subscribe and click the bell!
You can also just leave the valve box intact, do not remove the cover and circuits. Screw a 6in (or so) nipple/pipe into the gas connector on the left, then use the nipple as leverage for turning the box.
I am currently on the road. But I did show the part number for the new part in the video. You will need to pause it and write it down. Thanks for checking out the video/channel!
@@therep49er I watched the video and did not see the part# for only the temp sensor. I saw that you showed the part# for the whole new gas value box. I am looking for the part# of just the temp/well sensor itself? I know you mentioned you didn’t have any luck finding just that part, I wanted to see if I could locate it. Thanks
Gotcha! I do not know the number for just the temp/well sensor. I am not even sure if just that part is available. It might only be the whole unit that is available.
I bought from a local plumbing supply company. If I were you, I would look for plumbing supply companies in your area and make a few calls to see if they sell/stock water heater parts.
Their website is not the greatest. Might even be unmaintained/broken at this point 😂 They seem to be a pretty old fashioned store, but they definitely know their trade! www.artsplumbing.com/
I will have to look at the unit when I get home later today. I don't know the number immediately. I thought I showed the part number for the new valve at some point in the video. But I have no idea at what point.
@@therep49er Correct. That's the Bradford White part number for the whole kit but that valve is made by Honeywell and will have its own part number on a sticker on its right side. I can find the original Honeywell part number everywhere but not the new one Bradford is shipping in these kits. Everyone is selling the original part with the plastic well and not the new one with the metal jacket and upgraded cover/dial.
@@jberschi hmmm. I am not sure. I will check when I get home tonight though. When I bought mine I was running into the same issue you are. I may have just gotten lucky with finding a plumbing supply store that happened to have the upgrade.
I unplugged the wires until all the lights were off for about 30 seconds. Then plugged them back in. Depending on the fault, it may work temporarily. It may not though.
Chad, I had to search around a bit. But ultimately, I bought from a plumbing supply store that also sells replacement parts. I showed the part number in the video, I can't remember at what point. But I think you can search that part number and order from an online part supplier, maybe even Amazon.
So i had a code #4 which is a over heat code and went to look around the water heater and there was water around the bottom of it. I couldn't see any water leaking from any lines going into the water heater or outside of the water heater so I went ahead and reset the code via this video ruclips.net/video/yo5e6WWFdOM/видео.html But now i can hear it dripping inside the water heater onto my flame. I'm wondering if this part going into the water heater that you replaced could get bad enough to drip like that.
So sorry for the late reply. The comment was held for review for some reason. I assume by now you have already taken action and replaced your water heater/sensor? My guess at a glance is that you had to replace the entire water heater?
@@therep49er That's in your channel settings for comments if you;re looking to not ahve comments held for review. But Yes i have fixed it already. It was leaking past the threads on the drain valve and wicking it's way up the insulation to the top and dripping down onto my flame. I went ahead and fixed it but after i had already ordered a tankless unit. So i went ahead and ripped it out and installed a Rheam tankless 160k btu water heater. I love not running out of hot water lol.
Had 5 flashes, tried finding a well sensor to replace and couldn't, disassembled and realized the well sensor was wet and a replacement would of broke too. *** He says Don't replace the we'll sensor because the gas mount is probably cracked and allowing water to leak onto the sensor. Check by pulling the sensor out and feeling for water, the housing it sits in is probably plastic I bought a new gas valve $120 and the new gas mount had a metal housing for the well sensor, same model number: 8840A1000 (so must have been a recall or redesign?)
To my understanding from speaking with parts suppliers, yes. There was a redesign. The OEM knew there was a problem and just kinda let it run its course. If it broke during warranty they replaced it. If not, they washed their hands of it and let it be the customers expense.
Honeywell phased out the WV8840 series, followed by WT8840. In the video it even looks as if your replacement is actually the older model, but I am not 100% w/o seeing the part numbers. The valve boxes with the black dials seem to come both in a version with plastic-covered sensors, and metal-covered sensors. I was surprised to see in your video that the red dial box you removed actually had a plastic-covered sensor; online, so far, I have only seen the red-dial ones with metal sensors. Maybe the metal cover was a late improvement for both the WV8840 and WT8840 series. It's hard to find definitive data on that online, and vendors also use stock photos, not actual photos, for the gas valves they sell.
Possibly a final update? This video is a couple years old now. I searched heaven and hell trying to find the "right" part based on model numbers. I kept running into dead ends. Then I contacted an actual "plumbing supply" store. The guy there was SPOT ON! Gave me the part used in the video. He did say that the OEM parts were commonly going bad. BW recalled them. But only if you knew about the problem before having it replaced. Meaning if you somehow magically knew there was a recall for that specific thing, they would cover it. If not, they had zero intention of making it right.
That is not a Bradford white gas control, that is a Honeywell. When you buy or order you Bradford White water heater just get it with the old style gas valve. If you are replacing just replace with an old style valve like a Robertshaw or Whites Rodgers
My guess is that either Bradford White used a Honeywell on this model or the valve was replaced once before and that person used a Honeywell. Because, I removed a Honeywell. Additionally, all the research I did with parts, service techs and parts suppliers brought the conclusion that Bradford White originally used a Honeywell valve. The valve was not really the best design which left alot of people having this exact issue.
@@therep49er When the wholesaler orders a Water Heater from Bradford White they can get any type of gas valve. Those Honeywell are garbage, I have seen them on many different brands. Next time you buy a Water Heater just get the old style valve and you won't have to mess with it not working or replacing it.
@@mikejones5364 Makes sense. This was the water hear that came with the house already. I was avoiding getting an entire water heater. It would have been a few hundred more for the water at the time. And we are not planning to stay here much longer.
@@therep49er I really wonder how wide-spread the 5-red blink = thermosensor fault is with Honeywell. The more I research, the more I believe it is really common.
I unplugged the wires going into the side until the lights went off. Waited 10 - 30 seconds then plugged it all back in. That may or may not help you though. It depends on how far gone your sensor is.
@@therep49er Just turn the temperature control off, wait till light goes out (about 1-2 minutes) then turn temp control to relight pilot. No need to unplug wires.
We have two BF Defender water heaters with the dreaded 5-red flashes; they both started to throw these errors only a few weeks apart. On both, igniting the pilot works. After lighting the pilot, one hears the click in the valve box which means the box has taken over the pilot control and you can let go of pressing down the dial knob. Now one of the two heaters would never bring up the green light, but immediately show the 5 flashes; strangely though one could just turn up the heat setting and the main burner would start, in like 1 out of 4 resetting attempts; a few minutes later the indicator light became green. Hot water worked for 12 hours then the box showed the 5-red again. Repeated attempts for resetting failed, eventually worked at some point, and now the thing works again for 4 days (but likely will fail again soon). The other heater often showed a green light with the pilot, but turning up the heat setting did not ignite the main burner but soon changed to 5-red error. Resetting did not work with one exception, and afterwards the failure was permanent. For this heater, I exchanged the control valve to a new one, according to video here (and elsewhere on RUclips) which fixed the issue. Just writing this comment to mention that resetting "mileage" might vary for each situation. Can range from impossible to sometimes to extended recovery. Fiddling with the wires makes no difference if your burner assembly and the thermopile were ok in the first place.
This may be tht first time I've come across a DIY video that not only addressed my exact problem but also made each step as clear as possible. I was able to replace my valve without any issues, and only 3 extra trips to the plumbing store. Thanks for this!
Excellent! Glad this helped you out and got your heater going again! Thanks for checking out the video and giving some feedback 👍
Thank you very much for this video! I am a single mom and first time home owner. I was quoted an outrageous amount for this repair. I ordered a new gas valve (exact same) from Amazon for 140.00 and used your video as a guide. I saved hundreds of dollars. We all had hot showers tonight and everyone is happy.
That is GREAT! I absolutely love hearing stuff like this! So happy it helped you out 😁
Could you share the link?
If she does not see this, I do show the part number to order in this video. If I remember correctly, I think it is around the 10 minute mark. But I am not positive about that.
Thank you so much for making this video. I was able to get the part over-nighted and replaced it with almost no trouble (getting the plastic base plate off was the hardest part, but the method you describe in another reply worked well for me!). I really appreciate that you described everything step by step and explained they "why." I haven't worked with gas pipes before, so I had no idea about yellow Teflon tape. Needless to say, I now have my own yellow roll. People like you are what make the internet great!
Thank you so much for the AWESOME FEEDBACK and comment! And thank you for checking out the video/channel!
I am happy this worked out well for you and you were able to get yourself "back in hot water"... oh the bad dad jokes! 🤣😂
Having the same problem but unable to find somewhere to purchase the product asap. Where did you find the part available that will do overnight delivery?
Sorry you are having issues. Not sure where you live, but I went to a local Plumbing supply to buy mine. This is not like a typical hardware store. This would be more along the lines of where Plumbers buy their repair items.
The website is a little out of date, but they may be able to ship to you.
www.artsplumbing.com/
I tackled this today. My biggest problem was breaking the union-- had to go track down a second pipe wrench. Glad I read through all the comments on these videos-- I did not drain the tank, and although my unit came with the new igniter kit I opted not to replace it for now. All of the wires and tubes from my 10 year old pilot/igniter assembly matched up just fine to the new unit. I already had some familiarity with pulling the burner assembly from following a different video on cleaning out the filter, so overall things went very fast once I got the union apart. I find with the new unit it needs to be set to at least "high" or it will only heat to literally "warm." Just a quick impression, didn't stay to watch it over time, waiting to hear what the tenants say (or don't say.) Thanks for this video and all the helpful comments. One thing I would offer is that a nut driver is pretty much essential for the burner assembly pate, but I failed to note which size I used. sorry. Edit-- had to be set above "high" before the tenants declared it "back to normal." I suspect they game the settings to meet efficiency standards and the new "high" equals the old "B" setting.
Thanks for the comment and feedback. Glad you got yourself up and going. Hope it works out well for both you and your tenants.
Thanks for this in depth "how to" video. I just completed the job just in time to have hot water for my holiday guests! You provided the confidence to do job this myself.
$140 for the Gas Valve + $30 for the 4' flex gas pipe + $2 for the gas (yellow) Teflon sealing tape. That's $172 vs the $600 quote for the job. Which they tried to up-sell me to replace the entire (8yrs old) water heater for $1200!!! :-)
Your time documenting this was well spent! THANK YOU!!!!!
Happy holidays!
Steve
@legosteveb So happy this helped! I love making videos that can benefit people. Also happy it gave you some confidence and saved you a bunch cash! Especially during the holidays!
A big thanks for this video! We had the same issue with our Bradford White. Without this video I would not have been able to fix it. Running smooth and finally have hot water again.
Glad you are up and running hot again! Thanks for checking out the channel/video and leaving a comment!
First time home owner. I have the exact same tank and honeywell, and this was exactyl what I needed. Thank you. I think I will have a project to do this weekend.
You got this! Report back and let us know how it went!
@@therep49er Any tips for getting that black back piece off? (8 Min mark). I am trying to twist it off and it's like Thor himself put it on. I'm trying to turn (counterclockwise) as hard as I can and my fingers are bleeding.
Nevermind! I put the metal piece with the bar attached back on and used that as leverage to get a good turn in.
If you have a set of channel locks big enough, you can try that. I vaguely remember it being a massive pain when I did it.
@@therep49er I have finished! Biggest hang ups were removing the old units back plate and removing the pipes from the old unit. Then figuring out where the gas smell was seeping from (bottom of new unit, needed another half turn on the gas line). Thank you so much for doing this video. You have saved the fiancé and I a bunch of money as we save for the wedding. I wouldn't have been able to tackle this confidently without your video. Thank you again!
Thanks a lot for this video! Had my tank up and running in no time thanks to you! Much appreciated. Tank heating up right now!
Glad you are up and running! I love when my videos help people out!
Props to you for doing it and filming by yourself. Great work and very informative. Thank you good sir.
Thank you for feedback and checking out the channel! Much appreciated!
Great video. I followed along and was able to replace my unit with no errors. Many thanks.
You're very welcome! Glad it helped you out!
Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment!
Very good and easy clear English explanation with logic behind it to make it work - THANK YOU.
You're very welcome! Thank you stopping by the channel!
Thank you for this video. I was able to fix my water heater and save a couple thousand dollars. I did what you did and replaced the whole part and not just the sensor.
You're very welcome! Glad it helped and saved you money! Especially at this time of year.
Thank you for checking out the video and leaving a comment!
Thanks, exactly what I needed for help. Things just don't last like they used to do they. Very well done.
You're welcome! Glad it helped you out!
Can you share the link?
older tanks i had in college never had any of this sophisticated sensor crap, they jusst ran until the thermocoupler burned out which was a $15 fix
Thank you for this video... This is exactly what was wrong with my water heater... Part order and swapped thanks to your video. Really appreciate the assistance!!!!
No problem! Happy it helped you out! That's the best part of making videos like this.
Thank you, this was really helpful in replacing the valve assembly on my second tank.
Glad this helped you out!
You're very welcome!
Thank you-your excellent clear video brought hot water back to my house too!
You're very welcome! Glad you have hot water again!
Thanks for this instructional video. You've helped me tremendously in confirming the resolution to my very same problem!
You're very welcome! Hope your up and running again!
Could you share the link?
Thank you so much!!! The best video on replacing this part out there. I appreciate your time and detail
Katie, my apologies on the late reply! Not sure why I did not see this until now. But I am glad it worked well for you! Thank you so much for the kind words and for stopping by the channel!
Great video. Thanks for the information. And gas teflon tape does come in white. I don't know if the stores just carry it in yellow to help the average joe tell the difference. But as a long time service technician for a gas company, all are gas teflon tape is white.
You're very welcome! Thanks for checking out the video/channel and leaving some feedback!
Thanks! Got mine reset and am ordering parts now
Glad this helped you out! Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment!
Appreciate you making this video for the rookies like me!
No problem! I am not far behind as rookie! I am just very mechanically inclined and able to fix a lot of stuff with a little research!
Don’t open the T&P relief valve! They are known to not reseal. Open a hot faucet.
Thanks for the tip!
Watched this video... It helped me tremendously, but the relief valve did not reseal, had to tap it with a hammer (a big no no) to get it to reseal. That said, Thanks so much for the video! I will open the faucet next time if needed.
Glad it helped you out!
Thanks for the video! Ordered this part, and it worked perfectly. This video saved me a lot of money! :0)
Awesome!!! Glad you are good to go now!
Can you share the link please?
@@chrisgudiel2915 Hi Chris, I will check it when I get home and send you a link, it was a website that I haven't ever been to before because it was cheaper than Ebay and Amazon. More to come...
@@eugenegarrett1156 RUclips is a bit finicky. I don't think it will allow you to post an actual link. If you don't mind posting the link in a way that it won't come out as a link but is easy to identify... maybe leave the ".com" off?
@@eugenegarrett1156 idk why the hell it keeps dropping your comment. I keep getting the notification you comment. Then it tells me it is no longer available.
Teflon tape does not seal. It provides thread lubrication so the fittings can be tightened to the proper torque.
It actually does both my friend.
Teflon tape, often referred to as plumber's tape, is a type of thread sealant and lubricant used to prevent leaks and keep threads from seizing. It was originally used by the military to help machinery run more smoothly by reducing friction between moving parts.
Wao. Thank you so much. Really appreciate
No problem! Glad the video helped you out!
Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment 👍
Great video
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
will I need a new gas connection kit and shut off valve when I install this or no?
Only if those items are damaged. If they are working properly, you shouldn't need anything other than the unit I replaced in this video.
Thank you for the video!!
You're very welcome! Hope it helped and saved you some $$$
Thank you for checking out the channel and leaving a comment!
Thanks for the Video it was very helpful, If anyone has LP (liquid Propane) Part # 415-52909-01. Also I found that if you mont the left side of the front door 1st, then you can see under the heater and mont the burner into the metal support slot inside the heater. once the burner is lined up then you can easily attach then burner to the control Valve, then bolt up the right side of the door.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the added tips!
Very good demonstrative video, thanks! Our bradford white gas heater is 12 years old, do you think it would be worth just replacing the total unit with a new total unit?
Thank you for the feedback and for checking out the video!
At 12 years old, it is kind of hit/miss. Lots of variables. Type piping in the house, well or city supply water, hard water or water with softners added ect.
But, if you are working with a budget that does not allow for a full replacement, and the tank is not leaking or otherwise damaged, then fixing what is needed and trying to get another a few more years out of it is always an option.
the dreaded five flashes of death! Good Vid. I was screaming the red wire, the door switch AHHHHHHHH its the door switch, lol all good
Thank you! Hopefully your system is up and running again!
I've been thorugh the video twice and am planning to tackle this tomorrow. 2 questions kind sir: 1) Do I have to use the new igniter kit, or will the old wiring connect to the new controller unit? 2) If I'm not planning to pull or replace the sensor, only swapping out the new controller unit for the old one- no reason to take the face off of the old controller, right?
Sorry. Just got the notification for this and a few others. Hope you got it figured out.
Do you have to replace all the subsequent parts (burner, pilot line, etc) if you’re doing JUST the thermostat?
Only if they are bad or appear that they will be bad in the near future (signs of decay, cracks ect.).
Will this work on any size gallon bradford white ? I have one just like yours, but its a 50 gallon.
Just make sure you get the right part number for the replacement. The process is the same.
Okay, thank you sir.
Thanks for the help.
No problem!
Is there a part number for just the well sensor? Need a temporary fix without spending the $200 on the new honeywell
The only part number I know of is the one I showed in the video. I could not find "only the well sensor".
@@therep49er Gotcha, thanks
@@brianfay9176 no problem. Good luck getting it fixed!
Same issue I’m having. I just need the well sensor. I’ll go to a plumbing store and I’m sure they have that part of the assembly.
@@justinlonghofer i found the well sensor and replaced, but it only lasted a couple weeks for frying the new sensor again (I'll see if I can find the number). I ended up ordering and replaced the whole thing and it's been good since.
I watched most of your video and wanted to say thanks for all the info! I do have a question though. If your fault was in the gas control valve why did you swap the burner assembly as well? Was it just one of those "I'm pulling this all apart anyways might as well swap this too"
I did not swap the burner. Just the well sensor. The burner assembly is lower (pretty much the bottom of the tank). But, sometimes if it makes sense to swap multiple components, and it is cost effective, no harm in that.
Example. If everything I did for the well sensor exposed the burner and the burner looked like it might need to be replaced soon. And, I would have to disconnect the same things as the well sensor again to do the burner, then I would do both the sensor and the burner at the same time and avoid a future repair.
@@therep49ervery analogous to when you have a bearing or something go out in your clutch. You have to take apart the entire assembly so might as well replace all the guts
All the folks saying this cost $140.... is it possible prices have increased a lot in the last year? I don't see it for less than $185-ish anywhere.
Not sure why I am just seeing this. I know you have already completed the repair. But, the video is a few years old. Very possible that region or inflation could play a factor in the cost of the parts now.
Also can you remind me about the union-- it's not backwards threaded? And.... will the gas pipes line up on the replacement unit just like on the bad one>
The union is NOT reverse thread. As long as you buy the proper replacement part, everything should line up properly. You should not need to buy any additional gas pipe. But, watch the video, I detailed all of the questions you have asked already, and some other tips to help you along the way.
@@therep49er thanks for the reply! Sounds like I need to buy a T15 torx wrench-- any other special tool?
@@herbiecactus6687 no problem! I can't recall anything else. But I did this repair 2+ years ago haha. I have not had to replace another one since then though!
Never mind... sledgehammer worked! 😬
😂🤣😂🤣 Told ya you got this!
perfect everything is cover
Glad it helped you out!
So I just installed my new one and the skinny tube with copper fitting under the valve was leaking very minimum but enough to pop micro bubbles and smell a little. I tightened it couple more times but it still didn't seal. I replaced the whole pilot assembly like 2 years ago so I decided to leave the old one instead of installing the whole new kit. Should I just install the new kit or do you have any tricks on how to seal it? Is it ok to put gas Teflon around those threads?
You can try teflon tape.
But, if I am understanding correctly (forgive as I currently attempting to go to sleep lol), it sounds like this small tube is part of the main assembly. That would lead me to think it may not have had thorough enough quality checks. I would send it back for a replacement and get the properly functioning part I paid for.
Yup, Teflon did it and the stink was coming from the old Gas Valve still in the room 😂 You're the man sir, have a goodnight
@@never2be07 AWESOME! Glad you're up and running again!
I don't have to pull the burner assembly just to replace the thermostat assembly, do I?
I didn't. As long as we have the same unit, you shouldn't have to either.
@@therep49er thanks-- looks like everything is out in the video. I just pulled the whole mess to clean the filter 2 days ago but unfortunately that was not my fix.
@@herbiecactus6687 hopefully you get everything up and running again ASAP!
I had a code 8-3 (or is it 8-4, sorry) showing and replaced the gas valve and ignitor parts. And it worked for a few days now and is throwing the same code. Can it be something else like the well thermistor or no... Thanks... going down to play with it now... fun... great video, SUBSCRIBED
I am not sure without seeing your actual unit and fault codes. But I have found that the fault codes on the newer units are pretty dependable and accurate for telling us what is wrong.
Does your unit have a decent list of troubleshooting/fault codes on the side of the tank?
When looking for the valve replacement should I use the Bradford White tank model number or the Honeywell valve model number?
I posted the replacement part number I used in the video. I can't remember which I searched. But I ended up getting the part at a plumbing supply company.
Thank you, turns out it's the same for mine
Thank you checking back and giving an update!
My Waterheater is 10 years old, do you just recommend replacing the part or get a new water heater? I was quoted to replace thermal well sensor $650 ouch and new tank $2500. Plumber said he doesn't recommend just replacing the part (of course its better to get $2500 than $650).
They say water heaters are only good for around 10 - 12 years. But, if you are a handy guy, you can swap the whole tank yourself in a few hours. You just need the right tools and a little guidance. If you swap it yourself, you should be able to do EVERYTHING including maybe needing to buy a tool or two for under $1000.
@@therep49er thank you!
No problem! Good luck with whichever route you decide to go.
Great video. It wasn't clear to me, did you replace the entire valve assembly instead of just the sensor to leverage the better design?
Sorry, watched it again. Sounds like you had trouble finding just the sensor.
I did have trouble with only the sensor. So using the upgraded replacement was the way to go.
@@billcullen2496 I did replace the entire unit instead of just the sensor.
@@deandavisrealestate2643 I got mine from ferguson plumbing
Great info!! But I can’t despite HUGE effort unscrew the black case from the unit! You mentioned you loosened beforehand... any tips? Thanks again!
Ginny Lapore Hello! Sorry you are having issues. I know this sounds dumb. But, make sure you are turning it counterclockwise to remove. As long as you are turning it counterclockwise, that is the right direction. Next, it may be very tough to turn! It may have been in there 10+ years. So, it can get very difficult. If you have a large pipe wrench or large channel locks, those tools can help you get better grip and more leverage to turn the piece. I believe I was using channel locks? Blue handle. If you don't have either of those and have a drill and long screwdriver, you can drill two holes in the plastic straight across from each other. Then put the screwdriver through the holes and turn the screwdriver like a hatch door or safe door. That will also give you more leverage. You won't be reusing that plastic piece of you bought a hole new unit.
Hopefully I made sense with that explanation. You got this! If you made it this far, you can and will get it finished! It gets frustrating, but you will get it!
Thanks again! Followed your directions (after sledgehammer) and the rest was easy- success! Thanks to you and your helpful video!
That's AWESOME! Glad you are good to go! Thanks so much for checking out the video/channel!
I am doing more woodworking/carving videos in the future. If that strikes your interest, please subscribe and click the bell!
Actually VERY interested! Thanks!
You can also just leave the valve box intact, do not remove the cover and circuits. Screw a 6in (or so) nipple/pipe into the gas connector on the left, then use the nipple as leverage for turning the box.
Hello, great video! Do you know what the part# is for just the well/temp sensor?
I am currently on the road. But I did show the part number for the new part in the video. You will need to pause it and write it down.
Thanks for checking out the video/channel!
@@therep49er I watched the video and did not see the part# for only the temp sensor. I saw that you showed the part# for the whole new gas value box. I am looking for the part# of just the temp/well sensor itself? I know you mentioned you didn’t have any luck finding just that part, I wanted to see if I could locate it. Thanks
Gotcha! I do not know the number for just the temp/well sensor. I am not even sure if just that part is available. It might only be the whole unit that is available.
@@GeorgeYousif it does not seem that the sensor can be found on its own. I was unable.
Where did you buy it from my friend any good prices out there that you know?! Ty
I bought from a local plumbing supply company.
If I were you, I would look for plumbing supply companies in your area and make a few calls to see if they sell/stock water heater parts.
Their website is not the greatest. Might even be unmaintained/broken at this point 😂
They seem to be a pretty old fashioned store, but they definitely know their trade!
www.artsplumbing.com/
What's the part number of the Honeywell gas control valve? I want to buy that as a standalone part separate from the whole wiring kit.
I will have to look at the unit when I get home later today. I don't know the number immediately. I thought I showed the part number for the new valve at some point in the video. But I have no idea at what point.
At around 4.20 I showed the old part number. That is what I chased down getting to the new part.
At about 9 minutes 20 seconds I show the new part number.
@@therep49er Correct. That's the Bradford White part number for the whole kit but that valve is made by Honeywell and will have its own part number on a sticker on its right side. I can find the original Honeywell part number everywhere but not the new one Bradford is shipping in these kits. Everyone is selling the original part with the plastic well and not the new one with the metal jacket and upgraded cover/dial.
@@jberschi hmmm. I am not sure. I will check when I get home tonight though. When I bought mine I was running into the same issue you are. I may have just gotten lucky with finding a plumbing supply store that happened to have the upgrade.
How can you reset the code so I can get back hot water temporarily and get the parts ordered?
I unplugged the wires until all the lights were off for about 30 seconds. Then plugged them back in. Depending on the fault, it may work temporarily. It may not though.
Where did you get the part from?
Chad, I had to search around a bit. But ultimately, I bought from a plumbing supply store that also sells replacement parts. I showed the part number in the video, I can't remember at what point. But I think you can search that part number and order from an online part supplier, maybe even Amazon.
Water heater not "hot water heater"
So i had a code #4 which is a over heat code and went to look around the water heater and there was water around the bottom of it. I couldn't see any water leaking from any lines going into the water heater or outside of the water heater so I went ahead and reset the code via this video ruclips.net/video/yo5e6WWFdOM/видео.html But now i can hear it dripping inside the water heater onto my flame. I'm wondering if this part going into the water heater that you replaced could get bad enough to drip like that.
So sorry for the late reply. The comment was held for review for some reason. I assume by now you have already taken action and replaced your water heater/sensor? My guess at a glance is that you had to replace the entire water heater?
@@therep49er That's in your channel settings for comments if you;re looking to not ahve comments held for review. But Yes i have fixed it already. It was leaking past the threads on the drain valve and wicking it's way up the insulation to the top and dripping down onto my flame. I went ahead and fixed it but after i had already ordered a tankless unit. So i went ahead and ripped it out and installed a Rheam tankless 160k btu water heater. I love not running out of hot water lol.
Had 5 flashes, tried finding a well sensor to replace and couldn't, disassembled and realized the well sensor was wet and a replacement would of broke too.
*** He says Don't replace the we'll sensor because the gas mount is probably cracked and allowing water to leak onto the sensor. Check by pulling the sensor out and feeling for water, the housing it sits in is probably plastic
I bought a new gas valve $120 and the new gas mount had a metal housing for the well sensor, same model number: 8840A1000 (so must have been a recall or redesign?)
To my understanding from speaking with parts suppliers, yes. There was a redesign. The OEM knew there was a problem and just kinda let it run its course. If it broke during warranty they replaced it. If not, they washed their hands of it and let it be the customers expense.
@@therep49er thanks for the video, it was an easy fix but always helpful to have great videos as a guide
Glad it helped ya out!!!
Honeywell phased out the WV8840 series, followed by WT8840. In the video it even looks as if your replacement is actually the older model, but I am not 100% w/o seeing the part numbers. The valve boxes with the black dials seem to come both in a version with plastic-covered sensors, and metal-covered sensors. I was surprised to see in your video that the red dial box you removed actually had a plastic-covered sensor; online, so far, I have only seen the red-dial ones with metal sensors. Maybe the metal cover was a late improvement for both the WV8840 and WT8840 series. It's hard to find definitive data on that online, and vendors also use stock photos, not actual photos, for the gas valves they sell.
Possibly a final update? This video is a couple years old now. I searched heaven and hell trying to find the "right" part based on model numbers. I kept running into dead ends. Then I contacted an actual "plumbing supply" store. The guy there was SPOT ON! Gave me the part used in the video. He did say that the OEM parts were commonly going bad. BW recalled them. But only if you knew about the problem before having it replaced. Meaning if you somehow magically knew there was a recall for that specific thing, they would cover it. If not, they had zero intention of making it right.
part number 09:19
Thank you for pointing this out! 👍
That is not a Bradford white gas control, that is a Honeywell. When you buy or order you Bradford White water heater just get it with the old style gas valve. If you are replacing just replace with an old style valve like a Robertshaw or Whites Rodgers
My guess is that either Bradford White used a Honeywell on this model or the valve was replaced once before and that person used a Honeywell. Because, I removed a Honeywell. Additionally, all the research I did with parts, service techs and parts suppliers brought the conclusion that Bradford White originally used a Honeywell valve. The valve was not really the best design which left alot of people having this exact issue.
@@therep49er When the wholesaler orders a Water Heater from Bradford White they can get any type of gas valve. Those Honeywell are garbage, I have seen them on many different brands. Next time you buy a Water Heater just get the old style valve and you won't have to mess with it not working or replacing it.
@@mikejones5364 Makes sense. This was the water hear that came with the house already. I was avoiding getting an entire water heater. It would have been a few hundred more for the water at the time. And we are not planning to stay here much longer.
@@therep49er I really wonder how wide-spread the 5-red blink = thermosensor fault is with Honeywell. The more I research, the more I believe it is really common.
@@Stingworm my heater lasted a solid 10 years before the flashing, so there's that...
How do I reset the thermostat/well sensor fault? Would like to temporarily reset it until I can get it fixed properly. Thanks
I unplugged the wires going into the side until the lights went off. Waited 10 - 30 seconds then plugged it all back in. That may or may not help you though. It depends on how far gone your sensor is.
@@therep49er Just turn the temperature control off, wait till light goes out (about 1-2 minutes) then turn temp control to relight pilot. No need to unplug wires.
@@the4groovesband990 Thanks for the tip! I will remember that in the future if it comes up again!
We have two BF Defender water heaters with the dreaded 5-red flashes; they both started to throw these errors only a few weeks apart. On both, igniting the pilot works. After lighting the pilot, one hears the click in the valve box which means the box has taken over the pilot control and you can let go of pressing down the dial knob.
Now one of the two heaters would never bring up the green light, but immediately show the 5 flashes; strangely though one could just turn up the heat setting and the main burner would start, in like 1 out of 4 resetting attempts; a few minutes later the indicator light became green. Hot water worked for 12 hours then the box showed the 5-red again. Repeated attempts for resetting failed, eventually worked at some point, and now the thing works again for 4 days (but likely will fail again soon).
The other heater often showed a green light with the pilot, but turning up the heat setting did not ignite the main burner but soon changed to 5-red error. Resetting did not work with one exception, and afterwards the failure was permanent. For this heater, I exchanged the control valve to a new one, according to video here (and elsewhere on RUclips) which fixed the issue.
Just writing this comment to mention that resetting "mileage" might vary for each situation. Can range from impossible to sometimes to extended recovery. Fiddling with the wires makes no difference if your burner assembly and the thermopile were ok in the first place.
Glad you're back up and running hot! Thanks for details on the issues you were having and what helped!