Thanks AJR this lead me to find my problem. I adjusted the servo motor mount forward as far as it would go as you described, but the magnate still didn't come close enough to the flywheel to the press against the cardboard. I removed the bolts so I could take the motor assembly off for a better view. I selected a 1 resistance then 25 back and forth several times and watched the travel of the motor. The pinion on the motor dial that moves the magnet arm allowing it to close or widen the gap between the magnet assembly and flywheel was only traveling about 5-8 minutes, from about 50-58 minutes. (Using a clock dial as a reference). On further inspection of the motor, on the opposite side that drives the arm there is a potentiometer with that has a Philips adjustment. After adjusting the potentiometer it increased the travel from 50, to about 10 minutes allowing me to back the motor up where it isn't all the way forward.
See my comment "above", dated 14 Oct 2021. Turning the white Phillips head on the tiny blue box on the circuitry side of the motor fixed the range of the servo's wheel.
I knew that there was no way I was in good enough shape to work out at level 20 on my Schwinn 130. Sure enough, the gap was 7.5mm. My servo bracket was already as close to the flywheel as it would go. Adjusting the potentiometer counterclockwise got me down to 3mm with a bit of adjustment to spare. I'd say level 10 or 11 now feels like 20 used to. I wonder why the service manual doesn't mention the pot.
I just replaced the resistance motor over the weekend for a 270. It is an arduous process disconnecting and reconnecting everything. The crank tool is easy to use by just following the instructions. One lesson learned is that I buttoned everything back up before checking out the resistance settings and discovered that my installation resulted in the resistance being too strong so that even on a 8 setting I could hardly pedal. Instructions tell you to check resistance before reconnecting everything but stupidly I ignored that. So, I had to take the pedals and shrouds back off and readjust. With the adjustment my settings are still stronger than originally but they are good enough for me to get a good workout varying the settings for HIIT use. The hardest thing to do is to use a socket wrench on the bolts that install the resistance motor. The placement makes the socket not want to fit straight in. Worked through that though.
Late to the game but the video on loosening the nuts and adjusting the brake mechanism helped, but still didn't allow for the magnets to get anywhere close to within 1/8" from the wheel. I adjusted the potentiometer (white tiny phillips screw thing in middle of blue box on left side of wheel nmebntioned in the Comments) and that made all the difference to getting the brake shoe to the 1/8" gap and putting my new-to-me bike at 100%. Counter-clockwise to get it closer to the wheel...tiny adjustments! But now, after putting everything back together, I'm wondering if I shouldve adjusted the brake mechanism back to the "middle" of the two adjustment glide-holes where I found it, and first tried to adjust the brake magnet shoe using the potentiometer. I wish there was a little hole or small removable panel on left-side front shroud so I could just stick a screw driver in there and adjust (after unplugging) w/o disassembling the front.
This also works for the Schwinn 270. I could only get the magnets within approximately 1/4" of the flywheel, but at least it has some resistance at the lower levels, now. Thanks for posting this.
I did this but it didn’t really have much effect. Taking the left side off and adjusting the potentiometer of the servo about a quarter turn counter clockwise did make a huge difference. Back to new again.
@@jka0807 it's the blue square with a white round piece inside. Take a Phillips screwdriver and turn it very little. Then restart a quick workout and bring it to 18 (to be safe since it can wedge the magnets against the flywheel). If you see you have a good gap try 20. It should get real close but not touch. First time I did it it was scraping the magnets against the wheel. I then had to undo the original instructions of moving the whole motor bracket forward. A few tweaks back and forth and I got the gap pretty small. Then I pulled the plug to keep that position and placed the cardboard at the bottom (smallest gap) and loosened the motor bracket and let it squeeze against the cardboard. Retighten the motor bolts and forced out the cardboard. Done!
Big thanks to you my friend. I had moved the physical unit and this yielded only a marginal increase in resistance. I could see that the gap was still too wide. I located the potentiometer - exactly as you say, a blue square with a white round piece. Gave this a quarter turn anti-clockwise and boom - it worked. Note - mine is a Schwinn 130 upright but it seems the internal components are the same. Thanks again!
@@mikrascally This worked for me, thanks man! Additionally, I think mine got of whack because I was unplugging it when I was done. Light takes too long to go off and it was annoying me.
Something to try first. Unplug the bike at the bottom front each time when finished. First, before riding, plug the bike in (there is a couple second delay and then you’ll hear the motor moving the magnets for 12 seconds). Second, press the green Quick Start button (again a few second delay and then you’ll hear the motor for 10 seconds). Third, I press the 15 resistance button (the motor will run for 5 seconds). Then I start pedaling. I have a Schwinn 170. This has worked for a couple months. Thanks for your video. I’ll know what to do when unplugging doesn’t work anymore.
Thanks for the helpful video. I wanted to add a comment on adjustment. I attempted to adjust the servo motor through the 2 screws, but it wasn't enough to get the magnets close enough to the flywheel. I noticed an adjustment screw on the back side of the servo motor (blue/white plastic screw). I was able to adjust the motor to get the magnets to be closest possible at highest resistance level.
@@timgifford2574 What they called an "adjustment screw" is a white plastic screw on a potentiometer. As mentioned, it's on the opposite side - it's an electrical adjustment. A few other commenters describe it and it worked for me on my 130
@@johnmcaraher Thanks. I don't see a white plastic screw on the potentiometer. Perhaps I need to get a new servo motor that has a screw on the potentiometer.
Thanks so much for posting this! Hard to figure why the resistance changes what seems all at once. I had to extend the slots to slide the bracket more towards the wheel and still didn't get as close as I needed to. But I did get more resistance.
Thanks forthis video. Inspired by your job, I dremmelled the same half semi circle off of the right side and accessed the tensioning mechanism (Schwinn 430). I actually had to move the holes closer as I had slid the mechanism all the way back about two years ago. I now have a range of about 12-20 which is perfect for me. Thanks again!!
This video was very informative. I just ordered the crank pulley from Schwinn and hopefully can adjust the resistance once I can access the inner parts.
My Schwinn 240 has a potentiometer, small white plastic phillips screw in a 1/4" square blue box on the side of the motor. This potentiometer can be adjusted to obtain the desired cranking resistance over the whole selectable range of the LED display range. Mine was cycling from nothing to full resistance. After adjustment my highest resistance was strong and the low was easy. I also drilled an access hole in the plastic wheel cover, with a 1/2" drill bit , so I could forgo disassembly if further adjustments were needed in the future. This worked for me in 2024.
Cool, this fixed the problem. Now if I can figure out how to change the direction of the fan I would be happy. Right now the fan blows to the left which makes it pretty much worthless.
If you'd like to insert an edit, I would really like to see the servo turn instead of only hearing it. I can't understand why my console sends the "adjust" message to the servo but then it runs for only a second, and the magnets don't move. Steven Wilson's comment "below", from Sep 2021, has described the movement range and potentiometer slightly better, so combined with your video I am confident I will get resistance returned soon. Average Joe, you might also want to add to your title that this is a servo fix for, also, the Schwinn 430 Elliptical, at least. Lastly, if the plastic housing isn't needed to protect children or animals in the home, I would take it off. It doesn't seem to make the machine any quieter, and it's a real pain every time you want to do some maintenance. Aesthetics be damned!
Great video! Any thoughts on the resistance being way to high? I set the console, start pedaling, and after a while it goes to max resistance; more than I can even pedal with all my might. Doesn't matter which preset program I run, or with no program at all, it just 'freezes' up. I'm thinking maybe my first step should be the potentiometer adjustment. What do you think? And correct me if I'm wrong, that turning the pot clockwise brings the magnets closer to the flywheel (more resistance) so maybe turning it counterclockwise will keep it further away? Like others have said, the resistance just suddenly changes without warning. Most say it gets lower, but mine gets much higher. Could it be another issue? Sensor? Thanks!
awesome man...wow...i have a 230 as well that i onl y used maybe 20 times or so and ive lost resistance already..barely over a year old. Will def try this out on mine as i wasnt sure what to try and was hesitant to phone there tech support. Great video and thanks again for the tutorial.
First attempt fail...see edit below for how it worked out in the ed. Leaving this description of the problems I had for reference I have done this a few times and could not get it to work properly. I think the servo motor is starting at the wrong position, because the actual resistance increases when pushing the "up" button from 4 from a quick start up to 12, which is extremely high resistance. Pushing the "up" button again reduces the resistance, and if I go to 14, the servo just starts to turn clockwise continuously and never stops until I unplug it. I took all apart again, loosened the bolts and set the servo assembly to the middle of the adjustment range, and then set the potentiometer to the midpoint of its range--hoping that would give me a good starting point. It seemed to work properly a couple of times but then went back to the same behavior. Does anybody know where the position of the black Motor Pulley Shaft should be when the resistance is at 4, and where it should be at maximum resistance? This video shows it at about 9 o'clock at the start of this procedure. Thanks! EDIT: It's now working properly, or as close to properly as I can get it. Watching the magnet travel as it the servo kept turning clockwise over and over again showed that I had to move the servo as close to the flywheel if I had any hope of getting the magnets within 3mm. I pulled the power plug out when it hit the point that should have been maximum resistance, let it sit for 3 minutes or so, then plugged it back in, hit quick start, then set the resistance to minimum. The servo finally rotated counterclockwise to the point where the magnet was as far away as possible from the flywheel. When I punched the up button to set the resistance to max, it made small adjustments as it should. In the end, the magnets were still not as close to the flywheel as they should have been. A couple of small counterclockwise adjustments to the pot resulted in the desired 3mm clearance from the flywheel. For my servo motor, anyway--turning the pot counterclockwise increases the range of motion. It was produced in week 50 of 2016, and the servo shown in the manuals and parts lists I found online for the 2013 model doesn't look quite the same, so YMMV. Unsure why the servo positioning was finally able to reset itself so it didn't just keep rotating, but I think the key is to make sure you only cut the power when it's at the point where it should allow max resistance.
I have a standup Schwinn...same mechanism. The problem with mine seems as though the computer is not communicating with the servo. Is there a way to adjust or reprogram the computer from the dashboard?
Best Buy just installed a brand new Nautilus R 616. This is what is happening. Jump on. Don’t know what I’m doing yet but begin peddling at lowest tension and 20 rotations or so tension begins shooting up until I cannot peddle and the the bike begins grinding. I have the Geek Squad calling me back to reinstall but… any idea what is happening? Thanks so much! My guess is it is related to your demonstration.
Do you think the same fix would work for a 270? We have the same problem on a bike that is in perfect condition otherwise. Can't find anyone to fix it and Schwinn doesn't respond. Hate to junk a great bike with one little problem.
On my 130 I basically just removed a series of screws clamping the two halves of the shroud and did some gentle prying. The blue potentiometer with white adjustment screw is just visible in the lower right at 3:42 of this video ruclips.net/video/Nm2Q3cGcTf8/видео.html
I just did this repair. My motor is also fine, but I couldn't get the gap less than about 3/8". Is the space really 1/8" now on yours at full resistance?
@@AverageJoeReviewsUSA i moved the motor over as much as the slot would allow. I then added several washers in between the 2 screws that attached the lever bar to the magnet assemly to push the magents even closer to the fly wheel. That got me about 3/16" closer, but the gap is still around just under 3/8"
You might not be getting full travel on your servo. When you say your motor is "fine" what is the range of travel? It should rotate about a half turn from the lowest to highest setting, and if it doesn't the potentiometer adjustment others described worked well for me on my 130. I actually had to move the assembly further away once I had full motion as the magnet assembly would crash into the wheel! So you should be able to get as close as you like without making homebrew mechanical changes to the bike
You missed by a mile! the issue is the servo. It doesn't move the magnets close enough to the wheel. You need to adjust the potentiometer of the servo (other side)
Thanks AJR this lead me to find my problem. I adjusted the servo motor mount forward as far as it would go as you described, but the magnate still didn't come close enough to the flywheel to the press against the cardboard.
I removed the bolts so I could take the motor assembly off for a better view. I selected a 1 resistance then 25 back and forth several times and watched the travel of the motor. The pinion on the motor dial that moves the magnet arm allowing it to close or widen the gap between the magnet assembly and flywheel was only traveling about 5-8 minutes, from about 50-58 minutes. (Using a clock dial as a reference). On further inspection of the motor, on the opposite side that drives the arm there is a potentiometer with that has a Philips adjustment. After adjusting the potentiometer it increased the travel from 50, to about 10 minutes allowing me to back the motor up where it isn't all the way forward.
See my comment "above", dated 14 Oct 2021. Turning the white Phillips head on the tiny blue box on the circuitry side of the motor fixed the range of the servo's wheel.
Steven, you saved me! The potentiometer trick worked! Thanks for posting!
Thank you!!! Used this video this morning to fix our bike for my husband. BOOM!! Works perfectly now!!! :)
I knew that there was no way I was in good enough shape to work out at level 20 on my Schwinn 130. Sure enough, the gap was 7.5mm. My servo bracket was already as close to the flywheel as it would go. Adjusting the potentiometer counterclockwise got me down to 3mm with a bit of adjustment to spare. I'd say level 10 or 11 now feels like 20 used to. I wonder why the service manual doesn't mention the pot.
Where is the potentiometer? Could you post a picture of it?
Here's a picture of the adjustment screw on the potentiometer: i.imgur.com/guo3p1P.jpeg
You sir are a legend! Potentiometer adjustment was such an easy and effective fix, thank you from the bottom of my heart!
@@brandonjones5559 Hey, thanks. Glad it helped!
I just replaced the resistance motor over the weekend for a 270. It is an arduous process disconnecting and reconnecting everything. The crank tool is easy to use by just following the instructions. One lesson learned is that I buttoned everything back up before checking out the resistance settings and discovered that my installation resulted in the resistance being too strong so that even on a 8 setting I could hardly pedal. Instructions tell you to check resistance before reconnecting everything but stupidly I ignored that. So, I had to take the pedals and shrouds back off and readjust. With the adjustment my settings are still stronger than originally but they are good enough for me to get a good workout varying the settings for HIIT use. The hardest thing to do is to use a socket wrench on the bolts that install the resistance motor. The placement makes the socket not want to fit straight in. Worked through that though.
Hi. Where did you purchase the resistance motor? I am not able to find one in stock :(
Thank you.
@@Canadasvt I just called the 800 number from my manual which went to somewhere in Seattle I think
@@clewis2971 thank you. I’ll give it a try tomorrow 👍
Late to the game but the video on loosening the nuts and adjusting the brake mechanism helped, but still didn't allow for the magnets to get anywhere close to within 1/8" from the wheel. I adjusted the potentiometer (white tiny phillips screw thing in middle of blue box on left side of wheel nmebntioned in the Comments) and that made all the difference to getting the brake shoe to the 1/8" gap and putting my new-to-me bike at 100%. Counter-clockwise to get it closer to the wheel...tiny adjustments! But now, after putting everything back together, I'm wondering if I shouldve adjusted the brake mechanism back to the "middle" of the two adjustment glide-holes where I found it, and first tried to adjust the brake magnet shoe using the potentiometer. I wish there was a little hole or small removable panel on left-side front shroud so I could just stick a screw driver in there and adjust (after unplugging) w/o disassembling the front.
This also works for the Schwinn 270. I could only get the magnets within approximately 1/4" of the flywheel, but at least it has some resistance at the lower levels, now. Thanks for posting this.
I did this but it didn’t really have much effect. Taking the left side off and adjusting the potentiometer of the servo about a quarter turn counter clockwise did make a huge difference. Back to new again.
What are the 2 parts your talking about? Too simple to understand. 😀
@@jka0807 it's the blue square with a white round piece inside. Take a Phillips screwdriver and turn it very little. Then restart a quick workout and bring it to 18 (to be safe since it can wedge the magnets against the flywheel). If you see you have a good gap try 20. It should get real close but not touch. First time I did it it was scraping the magnets against the wheel. I then had to undo the original instructions of moving the whole motor bracket forward. A few tweaks back and forth and I got the gap pretty small. Then I pulled the plug to keep that position and placed the cardboard at the bottom (smallest gap) and loosened the motor bracket and let it squeeze against the cardboard. Retighten the motor bolts and forced out the cardboard. Done!
Big thanks to you my friend. I had moved the physical unit and this yielded only a marginal increase in resistance. I could see that the gap was still too wide. I located the potentiometer - exactly as you say, a blue square with a white round piece. Gave this a quarter turn anti-clockwise and boom - it worked.
Note - mine is a Schwinn 130 upright but it seems the internal components are the same.
Thanks again!
@@zjph90 Your welcome. Thanks for responding and vouching. Thanks to the original video!
@@mikrascally This worked for me, thanks man! Additionally, I think mine got of whack because I was unplugging it when I was done. Light takes too long to go off and it was annoying me.
Something to try first.
Unplug the bike at the bottom front each time when finished. First, before riding, plug the bike in (there is a couple second delay and then you’ll hear the motor moving the magnets for 12 seconds). Second, press the green Quick Start button (again a few second delay and then you’ll hear the motor for 10 seconds). Third, I press the 15 resistance button (the motor will run for 5 seconds). Then I start pedaling.
I have a Schwinn 170. This has worked for a couple months.
Thanks for your video. I’ll know what to do when unplugging doesn’t work anymore.
Thanks for the helpful video. I wanted to add a comment on adjustment. I attempted to adjust the servo motor through the 2 screws, but it wasn't enough to get the magnets close enough to the flywheel. I noticed an adjustment screw on the back side of the servo motor (blue/white plastic screw). I was able to adjust the motor to get the magnets to be closest possible at highest resistance level.
My servo doesn’t have an adjustment screw.
@@timgifford2574 What they called an "adjustment screw" is a white plastic screw on a potentiometer. As mentioned, it's on the opposite side - it's an electrical adjustment. A few other commenters describe it and it worked for me on my 130
@@johnmcaraher Thanks. I don't see a white plastic screw on the potentiometer. Perhaps I need to get a new servo motor that has a screw on the potentiometer.
Thanks so much for posting this! Hard to figure why the resistance changes what seems all at once. I had to extend the slots to slide the bracket more towards the wheel and still didn't get as close as I needed to. But I did get more resistance.
Thanks forthis video. Inspired by your job, I dremmelled the same half semi circle off of the right side and accessed the tensioning mechanism (Schwinn 430). I actually had to move the holes closer as I had slid the mechanism all the way back about two years ago. I now have a range of about 12-20 which is perfect for me. Thanks again!!
This video was very informative. I just ordered the crank pulley from Schwinn and hopefully can adjust the resistance once I can access the inner parts.
My Schwinn 240 has a potentiometer, small white plastic phillips screw in a 1/4" square blue box on the side of the motor. This potentiometer can be adjusted to obtain the desired cranking resistance over the whole selectable range of the LED display range. Mine was cycling from nothing to full resistance. After adjustment my highest resistance was strong and the low was easy. I also drilled an access hole in the plastic wheel cover, with a 1/2" drill bit , so I could forgo disassembly if further adjustments were needed in the future. This worked for me in 2024.
Cool, this fixed the problem. Now if I can figure out how to change the direction of the fan I would be happy. Right now the fan blows to the left which makes it pretty much worthless.
Thank you very much. This solved my problem.
Found on my 230, had to adjust the small potentiometer to get the servo motor to move further and allow the magnet to move closer to the flywheel.
If you'd like to insert an edit, I would really like to see the servo turn instead of only hearing it. I can't understand why my console sends the "adjust" message to the servo but then it runs for only a second, and the magnets don't move. Steven Wilson's comment "below", from Sep 2021, has described the movement range and potentiometer slightly better, so combined with your video I am confident I will get resistance returned soon. Average Joe, you might also want to add to your title that this is a servo fix for, also, the Schwinn 430 Elliptical, at least. Lastly, if the plastic housing isn't needed to protect children or animals in the home, I would take it off. It doesn't seem to make the machine any quieter, and it's a real pain every time you want to do some maintenance. Aesthetics be damned!
Great video! Any thoughts on the resistance being way to high? I set the console, start pedaling, and after a while it goes to max resistance; more than I can even pedal with all my might. Doesn't matter which preset program I run, or with no program at all, it just 'freezes' up.
I'm thinking maybe my first step should be the potentiometer adjustment. What do you think? And correct me if I'm wrong, that turning the pot clockwise brings the magnets closer to the flywheel (more resistance) so maybe turning it counterclockwise will keep it further away?
Like others have said, the resistance just suddenly changes without warning. Most say it gets lower, but mine gets much higher. Could it be another issue? Sensor?
Thanks!
How do you replace the fly wheel belt?
Link is not working where can i get te file. hope someone can help me out.
awesome man...wow...i have a 230 as well that i onl y used maybe 20 times or so and ive lost resistance already..barely over a year old. Will def try this out on mine as i wasnt sure what to try and was hesitant to phone there tech support. Great video and thanks again for the tutorial.
First attempt fail...see edit below for how it worked out in the ed. Leaving this description of the problems I had for reference
I have done this a few times and could not get it to work properly. I think the servo motor is starting at the wrong position, because the actual resistance increases when pushing the "up" button from 4 from a quick start up to 12, which is extremely high resistance. Pushing the "up" button again reduces the resistance, and if I go to 14, the servo just starts to turn clockwise continuously and never stops until I unplug it. I took all apart again, loosened the bolts and set the servo assembly to the middle of the adjustment range, and then set the potentiometer to the midpoint of its range--hoping that would give me a good starting point. It seemed to work properly a couple of times but then went back to the same behavior.
Does anybody know where the position of the black Motor Pulley Shaft should be when the resistance is at 4, and where it should be at maximum resistance? This video shows it at about 9 o'clock at the start of this procedure. Thanks!
EDIT: It's now working properly, or as close to properly as I can get it. Watching the magnet travel as it the servo kept turning clockwise over and over again showed that I had to move the servo as close to the flywheel if I had any hope of getting the magnets within 3mm. I pulled the power plug out when it hit the point that should have been maximum resistance, let it sit for 3 minutes or so, then plugged it back in, hit quick start, then set the resistance to minimum. The servo finally rotated counterclockwise to the point where the magnet was as far away as possible from the flywheel. When I punched the up button to set the resistance to max, it made small adjustments as it should. In the end, the magnets were still not as close to the flywheel as they should have been. A couple of small counterclockwise adjustments to the pot resulted in the desired 3mm clearance from the flywheel.
For my servo motor, anyway--turning the pot counterclockwise increases the range of motion. It was produced in week 50 of 2016, and the servo shown in the manuals and parts lists I found online for the 2013 model doesn't look quite the same, so YMMV.
Unsure why the servo positioning was finally able to reset itself so it didn't just keep rotating, but I think the key is to make sure you only cut the power when it's at the point where it should allow max resistance.
I have a standup Schwinn...same mechanism. The problem with mine seems as though the computer is not communicating with the servo. Is there a way to adjust or reprogram the computer from the dashboard?
Best Buy just installed a brand new Nautilus R 616. This is what is happening. Jump on. Don’t know what I’m doing yet but begin peddling at lowest tension and 20 rotations or so tension begins shooting up until I cannot peddle and the the bike begins grinding. I have the Geek Squad calling me back to reinstall but… any idea what is happening? Thanks so much! My guess is it is related to your demonstration.
Do you think the same fix would work for a 270? We have the same problem on a bike that is in perfect condition otherwise. Can't find anyone to fix it and Schwinn doesn't respond. Hate to junk a great bike with one little problem.
Which is better for knees biking or walking?
Cool…gotta try this on ours! Thanks!
Thanks!
Thank u !
Thanks for the video appreciate it
How do you remove the shroud to access the potentiometer? I have found no guide or instructions on how to do this?
On my 130 I basically just removed a series of screws clamping the two halves of the shroud and did some gentle prying. The blue potentiometer with white adjustment screw is just visible in the lower right at 3:42 of this video
ruclips.net/video/Nm2Q3cGcTf8/видео.html
I just did this repair. My motor is also fine, but I couldn't get the gap less than about 3/8". Is the space really 1/8" now on yours at full resistance?
Yeah I could only move it so much, not to 1/8” - it wasn’t full resistance but better than no resistance
@@AverageJoeReviewsUSA i moved the motor over as much as the slot would allow. I then added several washers in between the 2 screws that attached the lever bar to the magnet assemly to push the magents even closer to the fly wheel. That got me about 3/16" closer, but the gap is still around just under 3/8"
You might not be getting full travel on your servo. When you say your motor is "fine" what is the range of travel? It should rotate about a half turn from the lowest to highest setting, and if it doesn't the potentiometer adjustment others described worked well for me on my 130. I actually had to move the assembly further away once I had full motion as the magnet assembly would crash into the wheel! So you should be able to get as close as you like without making homebrew mechanical changes to the bike
Dude thank you! Fixed!
Very helpful!
I have the opposite problem, too much resistance.
Mine doesn’t turn on at all
You missed by a mile! the issue is the servo. It doesn't move the magnets close enough to the wheel. You need to adjust the potentiometer of the servo (other side)
How do I fix if my magnet stops the wheel from moving?
Works!
Ig, I need to find a video about reprogramming the computer.
There should be a class action against these bikes !!!