Watching intently like your cats... 🙂Mr. Frank as I have to get same engine rebuilt on an 565,00km 02 Solara SE... Just timely - *Shall follow your list and modify as required - Give to my mechanic doing rebuild*. Thanks for sharing. JimmyF
With any of the vehicles with this engine the procedure is nearly identical. Check my other videos for details of disassembling and refreshing this engine - camshafts, oil pump, head gasket, et cetera.
It's a JDM engine so exact mileage was not known but I opened it up and it was clean as a whistle inside - it was featured in one of my recent short videos. Price was $1,400 USD.
At 0:29 - I had to Google what a "JDM" engine is. I'm curious if advanced DIY types can also purchase a JDM engine. I recently changed the timing belt/water pump in my driveway on my 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid, but if my rear main seal ever started to leak, which I highly doubt as I only have 193k miles, I could never get the engine out if it requires a car lift.
Getting this engine out is a real pain. Either you do it as shown in this video, or you separate it from the transmission and pull it out the top with an engine crane - but this method is a real struggle.
Merryfrankster, Thanks for the video and enjoy your content. This is helpful as I'm looking to change all four subframe bushings (engine insulators) on my 2002 Camry. I installed new OEM motor mounts but still have excessive engine movement. I arrived here due to a worsening knock and have pinpointed it to the drivers rear bushing. They're all cracked and ripped. My question: what's your best advice for making the job as smooth and minimal as possible? My thought was to disconnect the sway bar links, steering shaft, and support the rear downward while keeping the front connected, then doing the reverse for the front. After seeing how the rear connects where your corrosion was, not sure I'd have enough flex/clearance. Not sure it'd be realistic for me to rent a hoist/brace bar and lower everything down. Thank you for the time! 10:00
I am not sure that I am understanding you correctly. You can replace the mounts just using a floor jack. Put the front on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Leave the rear wheels on the ground, with parking brake on and chock the wheels (this is so you do not accidentally tip the car off the jackstands). Then you can unfasten the mounting bolts for each insulator and use the floorjack to lift up from under the engine or transmission..
@@Merryfrankster_ sorry, the engine mounts were just part of the story. Those are already in. I'm trying to figure out how to change all 4 bushings in the subframe, the easiest way possible. Toyota part# 52211-06030 x2, Toyota part# 52217-06010, Toyota part# 52215-06030, all with their respective spacer on top in possible. Not sure if there is an "easy" way to do this besides lowering the whole thing like you did. Hopefully my first comment makes more sense now.
@@jordanthomas5353 I see. Remove the top torque mount (barbell). Then if you loosen up the front two by a few turns, you should get enough range of motion if you remove the two rear and lower down the rear of the subframe with a floorjack.. Make sure you torque everything back to spec, and use a threadlocker on the bolts, otherwise they will work themselves loose over time.
@@Merryfrankster_ Great. Planning to disconnect the steering rack u-joint & upper strut mounts also to have that range of motion on the rear. I saw a forum w/ you that the FSM might be wrong. Can't find any info but thinking 163 ft/lb on the large bolt, 56 ft/lb on the others + threadlocker
I have enjoyed your videos and found them very valuable. Especially the differences in lexus/toyota blocks. I am doing an engine swap on my Fwd highlander. Is it possible to unbolt transmission and pull motor from the top with a cherry picker? I dont have a lift unfortunately.
It's possible and I've done it. But it's very difficult both to separate the motor and then reattach it is even more difficult. You are better off to pull the motor and transmission together out the top with the cherrypicker. You will have to work with the angles to make that happen with the battery tray..
I have 2007 Highlander with a seized engine. I'm just curious with your knowledge and tools how long it took you for the complete swap give or take a few hours
@@Merryfrankster_ Frank, since you didnt address what that item was that you said if we dont know it, we have no business swapping engines, what exactly is it called and why is it a problem since it looks deceptively simple? I do know I will NEVER try to swap an engine at my age and skill level, but I wouldnt mind helping out for someone who does.
@@Merryfrankster_ Yes, I do. I have found out there are at least three different Pickle Fork opening's sizes: 11/16" - for tie rods, 15/16" - for ball joints, 1-1/16" - for pitman arms. Which one did you use?
@@mikhailmikhaylov3801 well if you look in the video you can see the size of that boss for the bolt that the pickle fork has to go around. When I get to my shop I'll measure my pickle fork for you. But probably you cannot go wrong with the bigger size.
Hi Frank, I love your style, but I'm no mechanic. I have a similar vehicle( 2005 limited ) with 225k miles and have decreasing mileage and increasing oil leakage which is coating my starter and would rather put the money in to putting a good used engine than chasing down the current engine problems. I think it would be interesting for many people in my situation to see a tutorial or checklist in how to check things like other major components that might also need replacement prior to replacing just an engine since things might be easier and cheaper to fix with the engine and trans out, because the car is otherwise in good cosmetic shape. With this particular generation of Highlanders, what else should need a transplant to keep it alive?
@@Merryfrankster_ Thanks for your replies allegedly, I value your experience and willingness to share your knowledge in these matters, especially as nobody in my area knows this vehicle or this engine. It appears I only have the option of buying an relatively low mile JDM 3.0 replacement engine for my 2005 hilander limited 3.3 as there are no direct complete swaps through JDM. I dont have a year or actual miles for the engine, Im told its complete and its located several hundred miles from my location. I am told it will fit in my car, but will need replacement of the parts external to the heads and block.. I know I should go and check it out with a mechanic, and I am willing to do that to help insure I dont get a bad engine. Should I expect an uncomplicated swap with the 3.0 block and heads with my swapped harness.alt, emission controls, computer controls vs the 3.3 or would I need further programming/modifications to get me up and running or do I have to risk buying a used 20 year old hilander motor with 100k plus miles already on it. The rebuilt motors available are not the best option as they seem twice the price of most rebuilds and theres no experienced Toyota techs within hours of my location in any direction. Thanks in advance.
Swapping the 3.0 is not a viable option for a stock street driven car. You would have to change the computer and this means changing the wiring of the engine harness and also the new computer will not be compatible with the body functions of your vehicle. Keep looking for a JDM 3.3. They are not hard to find. @@misterserious3522
@@Merryfrankster_ Man, God bless you, YOU ARE A GEM, (potentially saving my antique tuchus from lying or uninformed used parts salesmen, not to mention can you EVER trust anything they say?). Just one more thing, if I get an older engine, where do I worry agewise about preemptively replacing various leak prone gaskets while its out and easy due to propensity to deteriorate due to age, heat, and since its an interference engine, how about the timing belt on engines with no provenance. Im sure I speak for all your followers, and value your your expertise and more than generous replys because where I am, they dont even know how to spell Toyota, much less work on them.
No, the engine is absolutely plug and play. What I like to do is pull the EFI fuse, and crank the engine (it will not start with fuse removed) to build up oil pressure before the first start. I also check with the scantool on live data to make sure that all the sensors are plugged in and working. No programming of any kind is needed or even possible on a 2001 ECU. A 2001 ECU cannot be programmed in any way, shape, or form. That functionality was not available in that series of ECU. for that reason, make sure that it has the correct fuel injectors - same as the old engine, or use the ones from the old engine if necessary. The injector flowrate is programmed into the ECU, and cannot be changed. @@richardzarzaur6501
@@Merryfrankster_ in my exprerience, the manual doesn’t always advise the best method of engine removal but I will see. I’ll let you know if I end up having regrets lol
"The engine has landed!" chapter title - haha, it does look like the lunar lander on those jackstands! Great video, thanks for posting this!
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Awesome well detailed video, thank You very much!
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Great video, Im going to have to tackle this swap pretty soon. I found out today that my head gasket is shot.
thank you for watching and for commenting.
Watching intently like your cats... 🙂Mr. Frank as I have to get same engine rebuilt on an 565,00km 02 Solara SE... Just timely - *Shall follow your list and modify as required - Give to my mechanic doing rebuild*. Thanks for sharing. JimmyF
With any of the vehicles with this engine the procedure is nearly identical. Check my other videos for details of disassembling and refreshing this engine - camshafts, oil pump, head gasket, et cetera.
I don’t know how to remove one of those thingies but best believe imma still drop this engine soon in my es300
Excellent video. What’s the mileage on the used engine and the price?
It's a JDM engine so exact mileage was not known but I opened it up and it was clean as a whistle inside - it was featured in one of my recent short videos. Price was $1,400 USD.
Awesomeness
Thank you for this tutorial video.
Would I be able to remove the engine from the top with the transmission attached?
Much appreciated
Look at precisely 1:40. You see the battery stand that is welded to the frame. This is in the way of the transmission if you attempt to pull it up.
At 0:29 - I had to Google what a "JDM" engine is. I'm curious if advanced DIY types can also purchase a JDM engine. I recently changed the timing belt/water pump in my driveway on my 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid, but if my rear main seal ever started to leak, which I highly doubt as I only have 193k miles, I could never get the engine out if it requires a car lift.
Getting this engine out is a real pain. Either you do it as shown in this video, or you separate it from the transmission and pull it out the top with an engine crane - but this method is a real struggle.
Merryfrankster,
Thanks for the video and enjoy your content. This is helpful as I'm looking to change all four subframe bushings (engine insulators) on my 2002 Camry. I installed new OEM motor mounts but still have excessive engine movement. I arrived here due to a worsening knock and have pinpointed it to the drivers rear bushing. They're all cracked and ripped. My question: what's your best advice for making the job as smooth and minimal as possible? My thought was to disconnect the sway bar links, steering shaft, and support the rear downward while keeping the front connected, then doing the reverse for the front. After seeing how the rear connects where your corrosion was, not sure I'd have enough flex/clearance. Not sure it'd be realistic for me to rent a hoist/brace bar and lower everything down. Thank you for the time!
10:00
I am not sure that I am understanding you correctly. You can replace the mounts just using a floor jack. Put the front on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Leave the rear wheels on the ground, with parking brake on and chock the wheels (this is so you do not accidentally tip the car off the jackstands). Then you can unfasten the mounting bolts for each insulator and use the floorjack to lift up from under the engine or transmission..
@@Merryfrankster_ sorry, the engine mounts were just part of the story. Those are already in. I'm trying to figure out how to change all 4 bushings in the subframe, the easiest way possible. Toyota part# 52211-06030 x2, Toyota part# 52217-06010, Toyota part# 52215-06030, all with their respective spacer on top in possible. Not sure if there is an "easy" way to do this besides lowering the whole thing like you did. Hopefully my first comment makes more sense now.
@@jordanthomas5353 I see. Remove the top torque mount (barbell). Then if you loosen up the front two by a few turns, you should get enough range of motion if you remove the two rear and lower down the rear of the subframe with a floorjack.. Make sure you torque everything back to spec, and use a threadlocker on the bolts, otherwise they will work themselves loose over time.
@@Merryfrankster_ Great. Planning to disconnect the steering rack u-joint & upper strut mounts also to have that range of motion on the rear. I saw a forum w/ you that the FSM might be wrong. Can't find any info but thinking 163 ft/lb on the large bolt, 56 ft/lb on the others + threadlocker
I have enjoyed your videos and found them very valuable. Especially the differences in lexus/toyota blocks. I am doing an engine swap on my Fwd highlander. Is it possible to unbolt transmission and pull motor from the top with a cherry picker? I dont have a lift unfortunately.
It's possible and I've done it. But it's very difficult both to separate the motor and then reattach it is even more difficult. You are better off to pull the motor and transmission together out the top with the cherrypicker. You will have to work with the angles to make that happen with the battery tray..
Actually the way to go is to remove the bumper cover, the radiator, and the condenser. This is all easier than it sounds.
Thank you! I'm subscribing now
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
I have 2007 Highlander with a seized engine. I'm just curious with your knowledge and tools how long it took you for the complete swap give or take a few hours
It takes me a week to do an engine swap. I don't just bang on at it for hours on end, I just do a few hours every day. I have a life, you know.
@@Merryfrankster_ Frank, since you didnt address what that item was that you said if we dont know it, we have no business swapping engines, what exactly is it called and why is it a problem since it looks deceptively simple? I do know I will NEVER try to swap an engine at my age and skill level, but I wouldnt mind helping out for someone who does.
I have no idea what item you are referring to. Does it have a name? I don't recall what I said a year or two ago. @@misterserious3522
Hi,are you interested in reviewing a bi-directional OBD2 scanner with full-system diagnostics?
Sure, I would be happy to give it a very thorough review on a range of cars.
@@Merryfrankster_ Good,could you give me your email account to discuss further?
What size should be the fork's opening to separate the subframe? Thank you.
Are you having the same problem with corrosion? Any standard pickle fork will work.
@@Merryfrankster_ Yes, I do. I have found out there are at least three different Pickle Fork opening's sizes: 11/16" - for tie rods, 15/16" - for ball joints, 1-1/16" - for pitman arms. Which one did you use?
@@mikhailmikhaylov3801 well if you look in the video you can see the size of that boss for the bolt that the pickle fork has to go around. When I get to my shop I'll measure my pickle fork for you. But probably you cannot go wrong with the bigger size.
@@mikhailmikhaylov3801 my pickle fork is 15/16 between the teins.
Hi Frank, I love your style, but I'm no mechanic. I have a similar vehicle( 2005 limited ) with 225k miles and have decreasing mileage and increasing oil leakage which is coating my starter and would rather put the money in to putting a good used engine than chasing down the current engine problems. I think it would be interesting for many people in my situation to see a tutorial or checklist in how to check things like other major components that might also need replacement prior to replacing just an engine since things might be easier and cheaper to fix with the engine and trans out, because the car is otherwise in good cosmetic shape. With this particular generation of Highlanders, what else should need a transplant to keep it alive?
I do have a few other videos on this engine that cover that most important components and features. Check them out.
@@Merryfrankster_ Thanks for your replies allegedly, I value your experience and willingness to share your knowledge in these matters, especially as nobody in my area knows this vehicle or this engine. It appears I only have the option of buying an relatively low mile JDM 3.0 replacement engine for my 2005 hilander limited 3.3 as there are no direct complete swaps through JDM. I dont have a year or actual miles for the engine, Im told its complete and its located several hundred miles from my location. I am told it will fit in my car, but will need replacement of the parts external to the heads and block..
I know I should go and check it out with a mechanic, and I am willing to do that to help insure I dont get a bad engine.
Should I expect an uncomplicated swap with the 3.0 block and heads with my swapped harness.alt, emission controls, computer controls vs the 3.3 or would I need further programming/modifications to get me up and running or do I have to risk buying a used 20 year old hilander motor with 100k plus miles already on it. The rebuilt motors available are not the best option as they seem twice the price of most rebuilds and theres no experienced Toyota techs within hours of my location in any direction.
Thanks in advance.
Swapping the 3.0 is not a viable option for a stock street driven car. You would have to change the computer and this means changing the wiring of the engine harness and also the new computer will not be compatible with the body functions of your vehicle. Keep looking for a JDM 3.3. They are not hard to find. @@misterserious3522
@@Merryfrankster_ Man, God bless you, YOU ARE A GEM, (potentially saving my antique tuchus from lying or uninformed used parts salesmen, not to mention can you EVER trust anything they say?). Just one more thing, if I get an older engine, where do I worry agewise about preemptively replacing various leak prone gaskets while its out and easy due to propensity to deteriorate due to age, heat, and since its an interference engine, how about the timing belt on engines with no provenance. Im sure I speak for all your followers, and value your your expertise and more than generous replys because where I am, they dont even know how to spell Toyota, much less work on them.
Does the new engine require programming after install?
No programming required for engine. There is a special programing function in Techstream if you replace the transmission - but not the engine.
Thank you for your reply. Mine is actually a 2001 Solara SLE same engine. Still no engine programming? Have a wonderful weekend!😊
No, the engine is absolutely plug and play. What I like to do is pull the EFI fuse, and crank the engine (it will not start with fuse removed) to build up oil pressure before the first start. I also check with the scantool on live data to make sure that all the sensors are plugged in and working. No programming of any kind is needed or even possible on a 2001 ECU. A 2001 ECU cannot be programmed in any way, shape, or form. That functionality was not available in that series of ECU. for that reason, make sure that it has the correct fuel injectors - same as the old engine, or use the ones from the old engine if necessary. The injector flowrate is programmed into the ECU, and cannot be changed. @@richardzarzaur6501
It could be just me but this seems like you did a lot extra. I’m doing one right now but only the engine is coming out.
I've done it both ways. Easier and quicker for me to pull everything.
You'll see what I mean when you go to put it all back.
And besides, it's the suggested method in the factory service manual. Follow the manual, son.
@@Merryfrankster_ in my exprerience, the manual doesn’t always advise the best method of engine removal but I will see. I’ll let you know if I end up having regrets lol
@@ricardodifirenze3855 you're making me wonder about your so-called experience.