I really think that I might have early onset dementia. I can't believe I spent a fortune when this is an elegant and effective solution. For protection you could wire in a timer that auto cuts power to the output after 0.75 seconds.
Many thanks for this excellent video and guide to wiring Kato turnouts. Have just successfully wired four turnouts on my new N gauge tram layout. The most difficult bit I found was wiring the live feeds and cross wires to the switch terminals. I solved this by putting a drop of superglue on the insulation of the two wires and putting them together which made soldering a lot easier!
Another really great simple to follow hands on How I Do video. Thank you for sharing this info. These switches are so much nicer to look at than the big blue throw bar that comes from Kato.
thank you so much for this i love Kato's trains n tracks so i purchased train set n both turnouts would keep shorting out i went through 100's of tutorial's file this part with a micro filer etc etc this now explains my whole issue thank you my friend for this video
DJ I have this in picture form on the HOW TO pages on our site but I am wondering if you would let me use a link to this video there? Thanks , Mike Fifer
Thank You. I have a few KATO switches and evens double crossover. I don’t have the blue controllers. There was a company that made a illuminated switch controller. I managed to get a few off ebay But couldn’t get enough of them. Now, thanks to you I have a great option to use. THANK YOU
I noticed that the blue Kato switches are not spdt momentary switches. The switches are either up or down, with no center off position. When I tried connecting to the AC screws on my power pack, it didn’t work. So, I purchased a 9 volt battery case, twin pack for $5.99, and ran the wires to two terminal strips. Then connected the turnout wires to the terminal strips. One 9 volt battery controls 11 turnouts. Battery case also comes with a shutoff switch so no drain when not in use. Only used one case so I have a spare. Thanks for posting.
This is a great video! I followed the steps and got the micro switches working with ease. I'm trying to figure out how to apply this to led lights for track switch indication. I followed the steps from this video along with another youtuber that shows you how to add LEDs, but, I can't get that working. Solid content, man! Keep up the good work!!
Like the idea!!👊🏻 Now the question is if I have 5 switches do I connect the power all together & how. I'm new at this so I need guidance. Thanks DJ!! Stay Safe & God Bless!!!
Yes, you can power them all to the dc side of your power pack. Run 2 wires from your power pack, splice those wires and connect 2 wires from that to each switch. Just like a bus wire and feeder wires of your track. Same concept, its just easier than 10 wires to your power pack.
Many thanks for sharing this helpful video - after much “trial and error” I managed to wire a similar turnout successfully; could never managed it without this instruction. Now for adding LEDs - might you have done a video also explaining that, please .. . . . ?!?!?!
There’s a RUclips video by Luke Towan that shows wiring DPDT switches and LEDs. To my utter amazement, combining that with your helpful video, I got it to work! Nothing like as neat as you both do it, mark you!
Hey DJ, I wanted to point out that using the Kato blue switch is a safe and friendly way to to insure a long Kato turnout life. Especially for younger kids! The Kato Switch provides that split second power to the turnout. Use these Monetary DPDT type switches with caution. I say this so others understand the difference between the two as you pointed out in your video. As always I enjoy your videos. Thanks!
Duly noted. What’s the best way to wire a Kato switch that isn’t connected to a DC power pack (Zeyphyr Express) so I don’t have to walk around the layout just to throw a switch? Should I just buy a 2nd DC power pack to attach 1/2 of the switches to on each side or?
New to all of this and didn't get the memo so I have all Bachmann E-Z track on my layout. Will this work for their turnouts and if so which wires do I use since there are 3 wires coming out of their turnouts? I hope so, I am not sure what to do with 9 of thier big black boxes. Oh and I am only running DC.
DJ, all well and good and an elegant solution, but... how does one know by looking at the toggle which position the switch is in? It would seem a better idea would be to add a red or green light (or an led that lights green or red) to signal through or not position of the switch. Not sure how this would be wired. At least the Kato blue monoliths show position, although they are way too big to add to a track schematic. Your thoughts/ideas on this?
Yep. That will work. Tiny correction. The proper name for the switch is a 'Double POLE, double throw momentary toggle switch. Centre off'. You can also wire them using Peco or Fleischmann momentary contact switches. I like to use the Fleischmann 6900 or 6906 switches as they show an indication of the route selected without having to wire in LEDs. You have to use a couple of diodes in the circuit.
Thanks. I plan on using kato track on my layout. One of the big advantages I like is hidden switch machines without the cost or work involved with the under layout switch machines. Now l know if and probably when I want to get rid of the big blue switches it won't be hard.
One more question please, do I need a DC converter as a go between the toggles and a power pack? Thanks . I’m just starting out with a shelf 1x6 yard setup, I have 8 switches.
Hi, I just watched your video on using toggles for the switch’s .I have the kato #4 right and lefts, but I realized that the red and black wire on the bottom of the switch can be hooked up either way? What is the best way to connect them? Red on the outside or black on the outside??? Help!! Thanks.
Here is another possible idea. You can use 3pdt switches and one momentary (normally open) switch on the DC input side to engage the turnouts. The third set of poles can be used for signaling and/or panel indicators. The wiring is just a little more involved than shown here, but is still pretty basic. With this type of setup, you can set your route and signals. Then press the button once and all the turnouts will move to the proper position. Just as with the DPDT momentary switch, do not hold the button for more than a fraction of a second. You don't want to burn out those turnout solenoids.
My boss advises against it because of info falling into wrong hands like the guys who taught the 9/11 terrorists to fly, not knowing what they had planned.
I lost my train room to my daughter and family needing a place to live. Boo Hoo. I had wired my several turnout switches to operate from a spare DCC controller, assigning unique numbers to the switches. I didn't have time to plan various routes utilizing the turnouts. Seemed like a good idea, though.
This video is outdated and I may take it down. I always suggest looking for Mike fifer or fifer hobbies RUclips videos because he did way better videos on that subject
Main problem with this, is that if you hold the switch too long it will melt the turnout. Maybe not with a 9v battery, but with the power from your powerpack it certainly will. You only need/want a small fraction of a second of power to the solenoid. You can burn out a turnout solenoid in a couple seconds at 12v+ with enough current.
Great video, but you neglected to say why one needed to wire the other side of the DPDT switch-I imagine it is because you need power to to the reverse action and that you cross the wires so that you can get the opposite effect. I am guessing because you didn’t say so. You are a great teacher so I guess you wanted us to figure that out or that it was so obvious that you didn’t need to say anything. I am a total idiot when it comes to electricity and wiring. I use Digitrax DS64 I guess they are now DS74 decoders to operate all of my turnouts and I control the switches through the throttle. At least that is the way that I used to do it. I have no layout now, but will get one up soon.
So red and black go to middle two posts from the switch and a “+” & a “-“ come from the power supply to two corners and then the corners connect in an “X” pattern, so how do I then add dwarf signals to give the correct indication when you throw the switch?
@@djstrains alas, I’m no longer a Patreon member. I had to make financial changes without getting a paycheck any longer and Social Security hasn’t kicked in. Thanks for the thought though.
THIS VIDEO REPLACES AN OLDER VIDEO I DID WHERE I USED A PUSH BUTTON SWITCH. THIS VIDEO DOES NOT ADDRESS DC vs DCC OR WIRING REVERSE LOOPS. SEE MY OTHER VIDEOS FOR THAT.
I am building a train layout with my daughter (both new to this) I’m doing a control panel and would like to get rid of the Bachman turnout switches and do something like this. Would doing this work on the Bachman Ho? There’s a total of 3 turnout switches. Thanks in advance
Thanks for the quick reply. I’m just hesitant as I have everything already built and afraid to hook up and fry everything if wrong. Is that possible or just won’t switch? I have to look at your video of adding LEDs. Thanks again
On the ez trackBachman switch has 3 wires. Now I’m really confused. Not going to risk but. I can always add better switches later when I have a fir sure method. Thanks again
Very easy job, short and to the point.
Thanks for the 'How To'. I could use about 10 of them along my 40' layout.
I really think that I might have early onset dementia. I can't believe I spent a fortune when this is an elegant and effective solution. For protection you could wire in a timer that auto cuts power to the output after 0.75 seconds.
Always wanted a train layout, but never got the opportunity. So I enjoy watching yours come together.
Many thanks for this excellent video and guide to wiring Kato turnouts. Have just successfully wired four turnouts on my new N gauge tram layout. The most difficult bit I found was wiring the live feeds and cross wires to the switch terminals. I solved this by putting a drop of superglue on the insulation of the two wires and putting them together which made soldering a lot easier!
You are welcome!
Another really great simple to follow hands on How I Do video. Thank you for sharing this info. These switches are so much nicer to look at than the big blue throw bar that comes from Kato.
Glad it was helpful!
thank you so much for this i love Kato's trains n tracks so i purchased train set n both turnouts would keep shorting out i went through 100's of tutorial's file this part with a micro filer etc etc this now explains my whole issue thank you my friend for this video
Glad I could help!
DJ I have this in picture form on the HOW TO pages on our site but I am wondering if you would let me use a link to this video there?
Thanks , Mike Fifer
Yes, actually, let me point people to your channel since you have way more in-depth info on kato.
I put a link in this video description for your channel.
@@djstrains Thanks DJ , This is well done !!
Thank You. I have a few KATO switches and evens double crossover. I don’t have the blue controllers. There was a company that made a illuminated switch controller. I managed to get a few off ebay But couldn’t get enough of them. Now, thanks to you I have a great option to use. THANK YOU
Glad I could help!
That was really good. You gave a good understanding of how it works.
I appreciate that!
Good video like and subscribed from Czech Republic 🙂👍👍👍👍
This made my day!!
I noticed that the blue Kato switches are not spdt momentary switches. The switches are either up or down, with no center off position. When I tried connecting to the AC screws on my power pack, it didn’t work. So, I purchased a 9 volt battery case, twin pack for $5.99, and ran the wires to two terminal strips. Then connected the turnout wires to the terminal strips. One 9 volt battery controls 11 turnouts. Battery case also comes with a shutoff switch so no drain when not in use. Only used one case so I have a spare. Thanks for posting.
This is a great video! I followed the steps and got the micro switches working with ease.
I'm trying to figure out how to apply this to led lights for track switch indication. I followed the steps from this video along with another youtuber that shows you how to add LEDs, but, I can't get that working.
Solid content, man! Keep up the good work!!
Glad it helped!
Like the idea!!👊🏻 Now the question is if I have 5 switches do I connect the power all together & how. I'm new at this so I need guidance. Thanks DJ!! Stay Safe & God Bless!!!
Yes, you can power them all to the dc side of your power pack. Run 2 wires from your power pack, splice those wires and connect 2 wires from that to each switch. Just like a bus wire and feeder wires of your track. Same concept, its just easier than 10 wires to your power pack.
@@djstrains Thank you sir for your help!!👊🏻 I think I can do it!!! Found some toggle switches on ebay.
Many thanks for sharing this helpful video - after much “trial and error” I managed to wire a similar turnout successfully; could never managed it without this instruction. Now for adding LEDs - might you have done a video also explaining that, please .. . . . ?!?!?!
I struggle with that, so I probably am not the best to answer.
@@djstrains That makes two of us . . . .!
There’s a RUclips video by Luke Towan that shows wiring DPDT switches and LEDs. To my utter amazement, combining that with your helpful video, I got it to work! Nothing like as neat as you both do it, mark you!
Hey DJ, I wanted to point out that using the Kato blue switch is a safe and friendly way to to insure a long Kato turnout life. Especially for younger kids! The Kato Switch provides that split second power to the turnout. Use these Monetary DPDT type switches with caution. I say this so others understand the difference between the two as you pointed out in your video. As always I enjoy your videos. Thanks!
Good point!
Duly noted. What’s the best way to wire a Kato switch that isn’t connected to a DC power pack (Zeyphyr Express) so I don’t have to walk around the layout just to throw a switch? Should I just buy a 2nd DC power pack to attach 1/2 of the switches to on each side or?
New to all of this and didn't get the memo so I have all Bachmann E-Z track on my layout. Will this work for their turnouts and if so which wires do I use since there are 3 wires coming out of their turnouts? I hope so, I am not sure what to do with 9 of thier big black boxes. Oh and I am only running DC.
I have never used their switches so unfortunately I can not answer this. Maybe someone reading can help.
Thanks for the great video and explaining ,I just got done wire up my Kato turnouts and it looks a lot better then the big Kato switch controllers
The kato controllers are too bulky. Best wishes for an awesome layout.
DJ, all well and good and an elegant solution, but... how does one know by looking at the toggle which position the switch is in? It would seem a better idea would be to add a red or green light (or an led that lights green or red) to signal through or not position of the switch. Not sure how this would be wired. At least the Kato blue monoliths show position, although they are way too big to add to a track schematic. Your thoughts/ideas on this?
I cant think of how to have indicator light since the default position for the toggle is center off.
Yep. That will work. Tiny correction. The proper name for the switch is a 'Double POLE, double throw momentary toggle switch. Centre off'.
You can also wire them using Peco or Fleischmann momentary contact switches. I like to use the Fleischmann 6900 or 6906 switches as they show an indication of the route selected without having to wire in LEDs. You have to use a couple of diodes in the circuit.
crap, my mistake
@@djstrains Don't worry about it. I've heard lots of people call it a double position switch.
thank you DJ; that is a great tip. I will try it with Rokuhan that are the homolog for Z of Kato
Thanks. I plan on using kato track on my layout. One of the big advantages I like is hidden switch machines without the cost or work involved with the under layout switch machines. Now l know if and probably when I want to get rid of the big blue switches it won't be hard.
Glad it was helpful!
One more question please, do I need a DC converter as a go between the toggles and a power pack? Thanks . I’m just starting out with a shelf 1x6 yard setup, I have 8 switches.
no, just follow what I did and dont over complicate it.
Awesome!! Thanks DJ !!!
👍
Hi, I just watched your video on using toggles for the switch’s .I have the kato #4 right and lefts, but I realized that the red and black wire on the bottom of the switch can be hooked up either way? What is the best way to connect them? Red on the outside or black on the outside??? Help!! Thanks.
Makes no difference
How does the orginal control switch not burn up the switch if it has power going to it all the time? Does it not switch it just like a on off switch?
Great Vid, Thanks!!! If you have more than one turnout, can you daisy chain the power supply from one switch to the next?
Yes you can!
Thanks. Great video. Those Kato blue throws are too big and not made to mount on a schematic. Your idea is awesome.
Glad it was helpful!
Here is another possible idea. You can use 3pdt switches and one momentary (normally open) switch on the DC input side to engage the turnouts. The third set of poles can be used for signaling and/or panel indicators. The wiring is just a little more involved than shown here, but is still pretty basic.
With this type of setup, you can set your route and signals. Then press the button once and all the turnouts will move to the proper position. Just as with the DPDT momentary switch, do not hold the button for more than a fraction of a second. You don't want to burn out those turnout solenoids.
Thats what I did in my video I made many years ago.
Hi DJ. Nice to know. Thanks.
Dj, are you able to create a video explaining signal aspects and trackside signs? Great video btw
My boss advises against it because of info falling into wrong hands like the guys who taught the 9/11 terrorists to fly, not knowing what they had planned.
Right man that is very understandable, thank you for the reply DJ!
Hi, just watched your video, can this be used on a DC system?
Yes, absolutely
I lost my train room to my daughter and family needing a place to live. Boo Hoo. I had wired my several turnout switches to operate from a spare DCC controller, assigning unique numbers to the switches. I didn't have time to plan various routes utilizing the turnouts. Seemed like a good idea, though.
Do you have a tutorial that would show a light lit up when the switch is thrown?.... directional
This video is outdated and I may take it down. I always suggest looking for Mike fifer or fifer hobbies RUclips videos because he did way better videos on that subject
Main problem with this, is that if you hold the switch too long it will melt the turnout. Maybe not with a 9v battery, but with the power from your powerpack it certainly will. You only need/want a small fraction of a second of power to the solenoid. You can burn out a turnout solenoid in a couple seconds at 12v+ with enough current.
Thats why I am using the momentary. Simple quick flick and I mentioned that if left in position too long it would burn the motor out.
Great video, but you neglected to say why one needed to wire the other side of the DPDT switch-I imagine it is because you need power to to the reverse action and that you cross the wires so that you can get the opposite effect. I am guessing because you didn’t say so. You are a great teacher so I guess you wanted us to figure that out or that it was so obvious that you didn’t need to say anything. I am a total idiot when it comes to electricity and wiring. I use Digitrax DS64 I guess they are now DS74 decoders to operate all of my turnouts and I control the switches through the throttle. At least that is the way that I used to do it. I have no layout now, but will get one up soon.
So red and black go to middle two posts from the switch and a “+” & a “-“ come from the power supply to two corners and then the corners connect in an “X” pattern, so how do I then add dwarf signals to give the correct indication when you throw the switch?
As a patreon member, I'll make you a personal video this week.
@@djstrains alas, I’m no longer a Patreon member. I had to make financial changes without getting a paycheck any longer and Social Security hasn’t kicked in. Thanks for the thought though.
I'll still make you one. I'll email you the link when finished. You have been an outstanding supporter and I want to show my appreciation.
Can you give me a link to the switches that you used? Thank you.
Link to amazon in this videos description
👍👍👍great video
Thank you 👍
Enjoyed your video a lot. Would this also work for use with a Kato double crossover with four motors? Thanks much.
Yes, absolutely
THIS VIDEO REPLACES AN OLDER VIDEO I DID WHERE I USED A PUSH BUTTON SWITCH. THIS VIDEO DOES NOT ADDRESS DC vs DCC OR WIRING REVERSE LOOPS. SEE MY OTHER VIDEOS FOR THAT.
What gauge wire did you use?
crap, can't recall, You dont need to go too thick, because its such low voltage and briefly.
That switch is actually called a double pole, double throw not a double position. Other than that an excellent video!
oops
👍
This is a bad idea. If someone does not know to release the “handle”, i assure you it will damage your Kato turnout.
I’m done making videos. Go watch someone else’s or make your own.
I am building a train layout with my daughter (both new to this)
I’m doing a control panel and would like to get rid of the Bachman turnout switches and do something like this.
Would doing this work on the Bachman Ho?
There’s a total of 3 turnout switches.
Thanks in advance
Yes, Ho and n are going to have same wiring
Thanks for the quick reply. I’m just hesitant as I have everything already built and afraid to hook up and fry everything if wrong.
Is that possible or just won’t switch?
I have to look at your video of adding LEDs.
Thanks again
On the ez trackBachman switch has 3 wires.
Now I’m really confused. Not going to risk but. I can always add better switches later when I have a fir sure method.
Thanks again
The battery how many volt? 9V? TQ😊
Yup