I can't believe this, literally yesterday I was searching for the exact same thing and also decided that it does not exist and I have ordered very similar parts to build it!
Took me a second to figure out what that screw under the strain relief was. Went back to check and sure enough, grounded cabinet panels. Didn't see one on the front though. :)
I basically made a ring terminal that slips over the threads of one of the switches, so I didn't have a screw on the face. I'll probably go into more detail on that on Patreon.
PLEASE put out more videos. I'm nowhere close to being even a half-way proficient "maker" and I have to live vicariously through the actions of others like you. Your demented sense of humor really tickles my crazy bone, and I need more of it. Keep up the great work!
Neat. I coincidentally made something very similar to this for basically the same reason (my monitors eat almost 20W combined even when turned off so I've had them on a power strip, and I wanted the ability to switch from solar to grid power if I work late into the night and my batteries can't keep up) with the same two-in/two-out cord "problem" (maybe it's more accurate to say it's a design constraint?). Mine definitely doesn't look as snazzy as yours; I'm good with functional parts, but I unfortunately have no eye for making pleasing designs. Also, the demonstration was incredible. Truly masterwork film making :D
I just want to make sure that “Speculum getting all up in your business” gets the appropriate level of praise. Well done, Sir. Well done. Now, I hope you will make some sort of signage for speculum communications.
more seriously: I agree that the horizontal version works better, but for what it's worth I think I might have put the lights inboard from the switches such that the layout was [switch] [light] [light] [switch] rather than [switch] [light] [switch] [light] - removes all ambiguity and the symmetrical look would work well. great build!
Someone should start a web site for maker on that lets a maker know to buy this particular part not that other thing. Like the LEDs were made for 110v but were uselessly dim. Let people submit good, bad, parts to a growing organized list with a short review as to their preference. I'm to old to do this but run into this issue all the time as a maker. Tools as well.
Not a bad idea. I should note that those LEDs would work fine as a indicators by themselves, but were a bit dim for the jewels. In the end, though, I decided to keep them. With the lighting in my office, they ended up just about right.
I think we really need a cut list of all the times you've said "Perfect" as you completed a step, only to have the next scene show that it was anything but perfect. Perhaps triggered by any time you reset the 'days without a stupid' counter?
Isn't using the bottom as a support for assembling other parts before you assemble everything, putting the bottom back where the parts it supported were in contact with it to begin with called being Jiggy?
This project reminds me of when you made a control panel for a theatre/production building with art deco theme. That's where I fell in love with your videos and projects! Glad to know the vintage dial and switch collection is still growing! What about a modular switch board where each component could be moved around so if I wanted a different arrangement it would be really easy to do so? I don't know if it's possible but I've been thinking about it for awhile and wondered if you would have some ideas on it.
If you’re after modular control panel layout look for din rail mounted switches etc. if you can get hold of the catalogue for a local electrical wholesaler you should be able to source the components you need.
This! Symmetrical and no way to confuse what switch goes with what light. For a cleaner look you could also make a separate connection box that is hidden under the desk, and only run the minimum number of wires to the control panel box. That way the control panel can be smaller, because you dont have to fit the large recepticles directly.
Oh the *nostalgia* :) Took me back to teenage me haunting the local Tandy / Radio Shack and fabricobbling some very shonky electronic gadgets (most of which were entirely unnecessary) into the little project boxes they sold. Noice!
You remind me of my uncle Wes. He died a decade ago, but you just remind me of him, he grew up on a boys ranch in Texas in the 50s. I avoid Texas at all cost, i have 34 cousins there, a county named after my family and a cousin when i was 15 who got really close for the whole time we waited out several tornados. But just how you talk and mannerisms reminds me of my uncle such a great guy, taught me to make spaghetti in 1977 when i was 8, using a koolaid tin with holes in it as a strainer. Good memories, probably why i watch all your videos and want to make a tornado light, not as big as yours. FYI actually the phone scammers, just want you to call back don't need your info a call back gives them verification that the line is good and goes somewhere and then they'll just keep selling it, until they find a reason for you to give them info. We use to use it when i worked for the US Government at Rand, back in the 90s, it was called Human verification system, human answer we know its a good number, we then made a huge library that the NSA took from us and did something with it.
Or, you could have used illuminated (when on) rectangular rocker switches turned sideways. Not the size used for wall light switches but smaller ones for projects such as yours. They're a lower profile and they operate very smoothly and quietly. But hey, what do I know, right? Another great video!, Wesley.
Why would you use a white lamp just to filter out most of the non whatever-color-the-filter-is light instead of just using the color that's going to make it through the filter anyway? I mean you might get a slightly brighter light because the filter will probably be wider than the narrow spectrum of an LED, but the LED light will probably look more rich and vivid.
You could have used Leviton 5628-2I in an electrical box and used a regular gang receptacle that was split into single outlet operation. If you wired them all into a regular electrical box, you could eliminate most of the comments about doing it wrong. Also, only 2 channels? I would have doubled that capacity or more. Of course I probably would just buy an already built model.
Yipee! A Tornado walks into a bar and the bartender says, "Hey we don't serve your kind in here! Get on your Lizard and Blow off!" er.... ... uh, I loved the retro blue face choice.
Wesley, Your switch box turned out fantastic. I always enjoy your videos I also use a battery powered UPS for my computer and have isolated the CPU and monitor from the other peripherals. 2 quick questions since you are a master of the atomic age signs. What is the name of the control used in vintage signs that puts a string of lights in motion? What do they use today which I guess is electronic over the older mechanical ones? Thanks Doug
Thanks! Usually called a chaser. I don't know the ratio of solid state to mechanical these days, but both are still in use. www.wccdusa.com/mechanical-flashers
I believe that's repeated as a general rule because most people aren't informed enough to understand current draw and it's easy for someone to use a underrated strip or to exceed the rating of the strip by plugging other stuff in with the heater. You'll notice the heater is the only thing plugged into mine.
another problem with smart switches and removt switch plugs and whatot is they usually have a current draw limit that makes them unsuitable for space heaters...granted you SHOULD have a space heater plugged directly in to the wall, but if you build a robust enough dohickey you should be okay
If your feet are cod, better protect your back, throat, head. I am not joking, you should never need to warm your feet unless you have a serious issue with your blood circulation. When the weather temperature drops, your body will try to keep the the most vital organs warm in detriment to the less noble ones. Brain, and spine get the priority, they get more warm blood, and feet are left cold, If you better insulate your back and brain, you should have plenty enough warm blood for your feet. On scuba diver suits, there is a double layer of neoprene along the spine for that purpose.
Damn, every time i hear a voice crack, I always hear "ItS TimE tO ChAngE" getting sung. Perhaps "İ̶̘̜͚̲̻̌̎̈́̅̈́͠͝͠t̵̡̹̙̦̹͓̙̭̏̐̄̊̓́'̴̧̬̱̞͔͔̙̺̟̏̈́̄̎̾̆̌͆͗̃̀̓̊̎s̴͉͐̊̓͛̅̋̿̚͘̚͠͠͠͠͠ ̶̨̡̠̺̫̭̞̲̟͍̟̒̚ṭ̵̞͍̮͈̣̝̟̤͚̻̝̼̠͉̓̒͑̇i̴͕̰͉̻̱̾̂́͘͝m̴̢̧̠̦͉̘̠͈̿̓͝ẻ̵̲̘̮̺̾̍͘ ̸̨̛̛̆̾̏͛̄t̵̨̖̯̻͖̎̋̉́́̀̌̕͝ȯ̸̧̦̲̫̿ ̵̧̨͍̼͈͕͔̩̞̳͍̬̮͇̀̔̑̀͊̿̐̕͜͠͠c̷̛̟͙̝̗̲̖̉̏̐͛̉͛ͅh̵͇̫̩͔̰͔͔̠͙͌̌̿̈͒̇͑̓̓̉́͜͝ä̶̛͉̺̬͖̫̗̱̦̼́̉̅̋̎̃́͑͗̓͘̕͜͝ņ̵̞̜͈̳̺͉̈́͊̾̽̽̇̄͂́͝ģ̸̢̦͈͈̜̳͓̾̂̒̍̉͊͂̃̕̕ͅë̵̢̺̮̲̫̉͆̀͠" is closer.
I wonder what the cut-off age is for the Peter Brady and Doug Henning references in your viewership? Personally, I'm old enough to think "Really? There are people who don't get those references?"
How so? The heater only comes on if it´s cold. The occupancy sensor is not helpful here, is it? And the monitors are switched off when not in use, not if someone leaves the room. Plus wiring to the ceiling is much more effort than to the desk.
I wanted something to control my office studio monitors, subwoofer, and DAC/AMP. This solution would work, but I saved myself 98% of the time and most likely a lot of money just buying a smart power strip that I can mount out of sight, out of mind. There's nothing like telling Siri/Alexa/etc. to turn your components on/off versus manually doing it. For me, I can always check my iPhone to see if my components on those smart power strips are on or off on my phone, and control them from anywhere. You did beautiful work here, no doubt. It was just over engineering an easy solution.
@WesleyTreat Well played sir! Maybe my choice of words were incorrect. I should have said I didn’t have to engineer it as someone else already created the solution, so the amount of time I browsed Amazon and checked out was much less. Still love your design and videos, just to be clear. Just giving you some friendly jabs. Keep the content coming!
I can't believe this, literally yesterday I was searching for the exact same thing and also decided that it does not exist and I have ordered very similar parts to build it!
Properly grounding on your metal panels? Be still my heart!
Took me a second to figure out what that screw under the strain relief was. Went back to check and sure enough, grounded cabinet panels. Didn't see one on the front though. :)
I basically made a ring terminal that slips over the threads of one of the switches, so I didn't have a screw on the face. I'll probably go into more detail on that on Patreon.
no, no, no! the grounding is meant to prevent stilling your heart!
Did you know you can import McMaster-Carr components to Fusion? The switches probably have a 3D model already made.
I also love control panels, we need a tour of your collection.
PLEASE put out more videos. I'm nowhere close to being even a half-way proficient "maker" and I have to live vicariously through the actions of others like you. Your demented sense of humor really tickles my crazy bone, and I need more of it. Keep up the great work!
It's in the key of F Demented for sure.
Neat. I coincidentally made something very similar to this for basically the same reason (my monitors eat almost 20W combined even when turned off so I've had them on a power strip, and I wanted the ability to switch from solar to grid power if I work late into the night and my batteries can't keep up) with the same two-in/two-out cord "problem" (maybe it's more accurate to say it's a design constraint?). Mine definitely doesn't look as snazzy as yours; I'm good with functional parts, but I unfortunately have no eye for making pleasing designs.
Also, the demonstration was incredible. Truly masterwork film making :D
I just want to make sure that “Speculum getting all up in your business” gets the appropriate level of praise. Well done, Sir. Well done. Now, I hope you will make some sort of signage for speculum communications.
Red LEDs shinning through a red lens usually looks a lot dimmer than a white LED shining through a red lens. Don't know why, but it does.
These were about the same, but the red looked richer. 🤷♂️
"Anyone who knows me knows I love a good switch"
...
*ahem*
...
more seriously: I agree that the horizontal version works better, but for what it's worth I think I might have put the lights inboard from the switches such that the layout was [switch] [light] [light] [switch] rather than [switch] [light] [switch] [light] - removes all ambiguity and the symmetrical look would work well.
great build!
@@ThatRobHuman So you're saying you prefer it when the switches get horizontal?
@@olekbeluga314 HEYO!
Someone should start a web site for maker on that lets a maker know to buy this particular part not that other thing. Like the LEDs were made for 110v but were uselessly dim. Let people submit good, bad, parts to a growing organized list with a short review as to their preference. I'm to old to do this but run into this issue all the time as a maker. Tools as well.
Not a bad idea. I should note that those LEDs would work fine as a indicators by themselves, but were a bit dim for the jewels. In the end, though, I decided to keep them. With the lighting in my office, they ended up just about right.
That is too cool. We are old school switch guys!
I think we really need a cut list of all the times you've said "Perfect" as you completed a step, only to have the next scene show that it was anything but perfect. Perhaps triggered by any time you reset the 'days without a stupid' counter?
Isn't using the bottom as a support for assembling other parts before you assemble everything, putting the bottom back where the parts it supported were in contact with it to begin with called being Jiggy?
Where do you buy a DeThickener?
6:00 I LOVE parametric design for being able to try out dimensions!
This project reminds me of when you made a control panel for a theatre/production building with art deco theme. That's where I fell in love with your videos and projects! Glad to know the vintage dial and switch collection is still growing!
What about a modular switch board where each component could be moved around so if I wanted a different arrangement it would be really easy to do so? I don't know if it's possible but I've been thinking about it for awhile and wondered if you would have some ideas on it.
If you’re after modular control panel layout look for din rail mounted switches etc. if you can get hold of the catalogue for a local electrical wholesaler you should be able to source the components you need.
Always good to see the DeThickener getting use.
Personally i would have added both lights in the middle.
This! Symmetrical and no way to confuse what switch goes with what light. For a cleaner look you could also make a separate connection box that is hidden under the desk, and only run the minimum number of wires to the control panel box. That way the control panel can be smaller, because you dont have to fit the large recepticles directly.
Above one another just to confuse the non initiated. x)
That was my immediate thought. Symmetry is pleasing.
I think both lights in the middle would have looked better but the horizontal panel was definetly the way to go
Oh the *nostalgia* :)
Took me back to teenage me haunting the local Tandy / Radio Shack and fabricobbling some very shonky electronic gadgets (most of which were entirely unnecessary) into the little project boxes they sold. Noice!
You remind me of my uncle Wes. He died a decade ago, but you just remind me of him, he grew up on a boys ranch in Texas in the 50s. I avoid Texas at all cost, i have 34 cousins there, a county named after my family and a cousin when i was 15 who got really close for the whole time we waited out several tornados. But just how you talk and mannerisms reminds me of my uncle such a great guy, taught me to make spaghetti in 1977 when i was 8, using a koolaid tin with holes in it as a strainer. Good memories, probably why i watch all your videos and want to make a tornado light, not as big as yours. FYI actually the phone scammers, just want you to call back don't need your info a call back gives them verification that the line is good and goes somewhere and then they'll just keep selling it, until they find a reason for you to give them info. We use to use it when i worked for the US Government at Rand, back in the 90s, it was called Human verification system, human answer we know its a good number, we then made a huge library that the NSA took from us and did something with it.
Or, you could have used illuminated (when on) rectangular rocker switches turned sideways. Not the size used for wall light switches but smaller ones for projects such as yours. They're a lower profile and they operate very smoothly and quietly. But hey, what do I know, right?
Another great video!, Wesley.
Yes yes yes, oh this is gonna be a good one! I love the idea of coming up with your own solution, it's almost like a new invention!!! :)
Excellent idea with the c clip
from industrial experience..using a colored lens, use white lamps. Use colored lamps, get clear lenses
The red ones were brighter. 🤷♂️
Why would you use a white lamp just to filter out most of the non whatever-color-the-filter-is light instead of just using the color that's going to make it through the filter anyway? I mean you might get a slightly brighter light because the filter will probably be wider than the narrow spectrum of an LED, but the LED light will probably look more rich and vivid.
"When its time to CHANGE..." great Brady Bunch references.
Version 2 should have a power-on and power-off audio playing!
Especially the off should sound like "Peeooww"
At 20:10 I was about to go full keyboard warrior and point out how you needed strain relief, and then I got to 20:22 🤣
Bottom lid is a pan... Luke a car's oil pan?
You could have used Leviton 5628-2I in an electrical box and used a regular gang receptacle that was split into single outlet operation. If you wired them all into a regular electrical box, you could eliminate most of the comments about doing it wrong.
Also, only 2 channels? I would have doubled that capacity or more. Of course I probably would just buy an already built model.
I needed something like this, thanks
Quality build! I may have made the bottom panel the removeable one (no screws on top).
Thanks! (That was the bottom panel.)
Yipee! A Tornado walks into a bar and the bartender says, "Hey we don't serve your kind in here! Get on your Lizard and Blow off!" er.... ... uh, I loved the retro blue face choice.
Wesley, Your switch box turned out fantastic. I always enjoy your videos I also use a battery powered UPS for my computer and have isolated the CPU and monitor from the other peripherals. 2 quick questions since you are a master of the atomic age signs. What is the name of the control used in vintage signs that puts a string of lights in motion? What do they use today which I guess is electronic over the older mechanical ones? Thanks Doug
Thanks! Usually called a chaser. I don't know the ratio of solid state to mechanical these days, but both are still in use. www.wccdusa.com/mechanical-flashers
lol, that dramatic ending
I love a bit of walnut and a switch. Mmmm Nutty switch.
Layout is always difficult. I often have to rebuild panels.
Bottom lid is a base.
I hate it when screws fall so fast they go into hyperspace never to be seen again. Along with springs and C-clips
Should also be noted you should never plug a space heater into a surge protector unless you want to be really hot(from fire)
I believe that's repeated as a general rule because most people aren't informed enough to understand current draw and it's easy for someone to use a underrated strip or to exceed the rating of the strip by plugging other stuff in with the heater. You'll notice the heater is the only thing plugged into mine.
I'm not a hammer tone fan but I love it as a texture. TIL.
Man you should collab with @tested and Adam Savage. You radiate a similar energy. Definitely got a new subscriber from me
Doug Henning. That's dating yourself. How many more people will get this reference. Great video as usual.
thatstransition to the ad was good tho,i wasnt even expecting that i dont think
15:30 It's all about the Base
another problem with smart switches and removt switch plugs and whatot is they usually have a current draw limit that makes them unsuitable for space heaters...granted you SHOULD have a space heater plugged directly in to the wall, but if you build a robust enough dohickey you should be okay
When it’s time to change 🎶 😂
DeThickener! Still laughing 😂
Thank the Lord no wire nuts appeared here. Wago all the way. From the U.K.
Nice toggle switch
If your feet are cod, better protect your back, throat, head.
I am not joking, you should never need to warm your feet unless you have a serious issue with your blood circulation.
When the weather temperature drops, your body will try to keep the the most vital organs warm in detriment to the less noble ones. Brain, and spine get the priority, they get more warm blood, and feet are left cold, If you better insulate your back and brain, you should have plenty enough warm blood for your feet.
On scuba diver suits, there is a double layer of neoprene along the spine for that purpose.
I just like warm feet. 🧦
Remember to that space heaters should not be run on power strips as power strips cannot handle the high current and can melt or start fires
The "don't use a power strip" rule is generally taught because the average person doesn't understand current load.
team horizontal: high five!
bottom lid = base
As a fellow Texan. I appreciate the 3 weeks of cold joke. As a fan I appreciate the video. Nicely done.
A bottom lid is called a tray ;)
An upside down lid, is called an Australian lid.
Hmm, for some reason I never thought of setting up the actual L x W x H dimensions as parameters in Fusion. Now it seems so obvious....
I don’t mind the real saw noises, but I do miss the “Jetsons” sound FX when you use the saw. 🤷🏻♂️
Bottom “lid” is base.
Put the lights on the outside of the switches!!
Something something wago bad lmao
But, if I use wire nuts, people complain about those. You can't win. 🤷♂️
Damn, every time i hear a voice crack, I always hear "ItS TimE tO ChAngE" getting sung. Perhaps "İ̶̘̜͚̲̻̌̎̈́̅̈́͠͝͠t̵̡̹̙̦̹͓̙̭̏̐̄̊̓́'̴̧̬̱̞͔͔̙̺̟̏̈́̄̎̾̆̌͆͗̃̀̓̊̎s̴͉͐̊̓͛̅̋̿̚͘̚͠͠͠͠͠ ̶̨̡̠̺̫̭̞̲̟͍̟̒̚ṭ̵̞͍̮͈̣̝̟̤͚̻̝̼̠͉̓̒͑̇i̴͕̰͉̻̱̾̂́͘͝m̴̢̧̠̦͉̘̠͈̿̓͝ẻ̵̲̘̮̺̾̍͘ ̸̨̛̛̆̾̏͛̄t̵̨̖̯̻͖̎̋̉́́̀̌̕͝ȯ̸̧̦̲̫̿ ̵̧̨͍̼͈͕͔̩̞̳͍̬̮͇̀̔̑̀͊̿̐̕͜͠͠c̷̛̟͙̝̗̲̖̉̏̐͛̉͛ͅh̵͇̫̩͔̰͔͔̠͙͌̌̿̈͒̇͑̓̓̉́͜͝ä̶̛͉̺̬͖̫̗̱̦̼́̉̅̋̎̃́͑͗̓͘̕͜͝ņ̵̞̜͈̳̺͉̈́͊̾̽̽̇̄͂́͝ģ̸̢̦͈͈̜̳͓̾̂̒̍̉͊͂̃̕̕ͅë̵̢̺̮̲̫̉͆̀͠" is closer.
I wonder what the cut-off age is for the Peter Brady and Doug Henning references in your viewership? Personally, I'm old enough to think "Really? There are people who don't get those references?"
Ye. Horizontal is better looking
'DeThickener' ®, ftw
As much as I enjoy switches with lights this seems like something a ceiling mounted occupancy sensor would have handled better.
How so? The heater only comes on if it´s cold. The occupancy sensor is not helpful here, is it? And the monitors are switched off when not in use, not if someone leaves the room. Plus wiring to the ceiling is much more effort than to the desk.
I don't want everything coming on anytime I step into the room, though.
I'm sure it's probably been said but I'm too lazy to look... the underside of a lid is a base.
Why on earth did you paint that beautiful aluminium panel blue!?
15:31 A bottom lid, a hatch?
You make a living doing this?!? :) I believe a bottom lid is called a "diaper." Or not.
Press the button. One of these days, you'll have a zero dumb day. I hope you're filming that day.
What compells the "Data Brokers" to remove your info upon DeleteMe's request? Or can they just tell you to pound sand?
Various laws require they do so upon request.
I think a bottom lid is a bottom.
My wife just asked me "Why does he look so much like Adam Savage?"
A lid on the bottom is a dil
Call me a nerd again. I dare you!
Why two power cords?
5:00
Why would the monitor and the speakers need to be on the backup?
So I can keep working when the power goes out. And if it's out for more than a few minutes, I can properly save all my work before shutting down.
Monitor at least so you can see to power down the system before the backup goes
No reason in 2024 if your not using auto save you’re asking for failure anyway
@@johndorian4078 If only that was any kind of standard feature in programs. Sadly it is not.
you should absolutely be restarting your computer from time to time. its its slow that is why.
You call it a BLID.
If your time was more valuable, you could have bought the two hockey-puck things and added an LED to them. Done.
As if there were something I'd rather be doing than making stuff?
@@WesleyTreat as in "making a living making things for a living?"
And you and I can get paid on it
I spy a ham
My Dad's best friend was a ham operator. I saved that piece and a couple others after he passed.
@ di-dah-dah dah
@ nice to have that stuff from your father ❤️
I wanted something to control my office studio monitors, subwoofer, and DAC/AMP. This solution would work, but I saved myself 98% of the time and most likely a lot of money just buying a smart power strip that I can mount out of sight, out of mind. There's nothing like telling Siri/Alexa/etc. to turn your components on/off versus manually doing it. For me, I can always check my iPhone to see if my components on those smart power strips are on or off on my phone, and control them from anywhere.
You did beautiful work here, no doubt. It was just over engineering an easy solution.
A toggle switch is more engineering than IOT?
@WesleyTreat Well played sir! Maybe my choice of words were incorrect. I should have said I didn’t have to engineer it as someone else already created the solution, so the amount of time I browsed Amazon and checked out was much less.
Still love your design and videos, just to be clear. Just giving you some friendly jabs. Keep the content coming!
@@MijoMontego Thanks! Plus, I don't trust AI not to turn my heater on when I'm not there and burn everything down because I was rude to it.
Why did I watch this???
A bottom lid is a base.