This work is really very difficult. I made mor crankskaft setting. Sloly work I know. The illustrative tool is a cool piece. 👍👍Many thanks for video.🙂👍👍🙏
I’ve seen this done by a few people, but I have found that If you don’t hit the same crank lobe you each time to adjust that one side you just introduce problems. Always hit the lobe on the side you’re working on, then flip your crank and work on the other side. Same goes with closing, hit the web, avoid the vice or you can introduce more problems to the other side. Opening is the same, hit the lobe out, don’t prise them apart.
My cranks always true out perfectly using this method. There are many ways to do it for sure and none are right or wrong. Do what works best for you. I could try hitting the web to close them but there is no way to spread them without a wedge. Thank you for your feedback and advice.
@@restoroosterohv no worries :) yes, just hit the crank counterweight out at an angle away from the other weight. As you say, you must do what works for you. I just find I make the other side out of true each time and end up chasing my tail. Now I don’t touch the other side when truing the one I’m working on.
Wait till you do some KTM cranks . You'll be getting a bigger hammer. 2-3lbs is a must and for most cranks I've found. Some 50-125cc the 1lbs is enough but still a nice tunk with a heavy hammer is way too go imo anyway. Nice video 👍👍 atleast you got your indicator out to end of tapper 👍👍 that the truest way unless it's in a lathe
Would it not be a good idea to have adapters to fit on to either end of crank so you could take a reading furthest away from flywheels ? not picking faults as its a very good video.
Adapters would not be good because you would never know if they would be true. The measurements are taken where the manufacturer recommends. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Unrelated to this video but I saw one video where you attempted to get a dent out of the pipe with heat well heat is necessary you could get a tool off eBay to cap off both end of the expansion chamber and it has a gauge so basically you put air pressure in the chamber then heat it up and the dent will pop right out
I am aware of the tools to do this properly but I just don’t do enough of them to justify the expense. This was just a homemade attempt and it didn’t go as I was wanting to.
Not necessary. It’s not going anywhere. Adding any material to a crankshaft could throw the balance off, the heat could distort it and welding it could potentially cause issues if you ever needed to take it apart again.
Only way I see the even remotely possible to have it controlled is with a nice press with a bunch of dial gouges so you can see if it's pressing on evenly but even then it's would still be a good idea to true it parts can heat up and slightly warps even if you press it on 100% straight it can still be off when it settles
Hey rooster. How can I get in touch with you? My pro x crankshaft rebuild kit came in the mail. My next step is getting it to you and getting you paid ofcourse.
little overcomplicated. easier to find the low spot and hit it on the low spot. no need to hit it on the oposite side makes it more confusing and doesnt always work.
@@restoroosterohv its not that i dont like it but it could make your life a little easier. I worked for crank works a while and picked up on a few things
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
The little model was a great visual aid!
Truth be told, I use it to help me remember. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
Best video I’ve seen on this procedure, thank youSO much! Subscribed 😊
Thank you for watching and for your support
Nice job explaining where to hit it and why. Thank you.
Thank you for your feedback and for watching
This work is really very difficult. I made mor crankskaft setting. Sloly work I know. The illustrative tool is a cool piece. 👍👍Many thanks for video.🙂👍👍🙏
Thank you
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching and for commenting
Good video man ,thank you I really appreciate you taking the time to show the trueing stand, process, overall just how to do it...thank you!
Your welcome. Thanks for watching and taking time to leave a comment.
That model was very helpful! 👍
Thank you, that was the intention.
Sweet, nice to have a new video from you🎉🎉🎉
Thank you for your continued support
Excellent example. Fascinating.
Thank you
Thank you. Great video
Thank you for your feedback and support
Very well explained and visualized with the model. Good work!
Great explanation! Learned a lot! Thanks!
Thanks for your feedback and support
Great video, definitely learned something new. Thanks for sharing
You’re welcome, thank you for watching and for your comment
I’ve seen this done by a few people, but I have found that If you don’t hit the same crank lobe you each time to adjust that one side you just introduce problems. Always hit the lobe on the side you’re working on, then flip your crank and work on the other side. Same goes with closing, hit the web, avoid the vice or you can introduce more problems to the other side. Opening is the same, hit the lobe out, don’t prise them apart.
My cranks always true out perfectly using this method. There are many ways to do it for sure and none are right or wrong. Do what works best for you. I could try hitting the web to close them but there is no way to spread them without a wedge. Thank you for your feedback and advice.
@@restoroosterohv no worries :) yes, just hit the crank counterweight out at an angle away from the other weight. As you say, you must do what works for you. I just find I make the other side out of true each time and end up chasing my tail. Now I don’t touch the other side when truing the one I’m working on.
@VintageEngineRepairs good tips and I need a bigger hammer. Some of these are a bear to move with a 16oz.
@@restoroosterohv lol so true, it’s surprising how hard you need to hit it sometimes!!
Great job, thx for the terrific info. 👍
Thanks for watching and for commenting
Very Educational, thank you
Thank you sir
Thanks a lot i've understood it all
I must have done something right, haha. Thanks for watching.
Wait till you do some KTM cranks . You'll be getting a bigger hammer. 2-3lbs is a must and for most cranks I've found. Some 50-125cc the 1lbs is enough but still a nice tunk with a heavy hammer is way too go imo anyway. Nice video 👍👍 atleast you got your indicator out to end of tapper 👍👍 that the truest way unless it's in a lathe
Thank you for the comment and advice.
@@restoroosterohv keep up the good work 🔧🔧
Would it not be a good idea to have adapters to fit on to either end of crank so you could take a reading furthest away from flywheels ? not picking faults as its a very good video.
Adapters would not be good because you would never know if they would be true. The measurements are taken where the manufacturer recommends. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
Unrelated to this video but I saw one video where you attempted to get a dent out of the pipe with heat well heat is necessary you could get a tool off eBay to cap off both end of the expansion chamber and it has a gauge so basically you put air pressure in the chamber then heat it up and the dent will pop right out
I am aware of the tools to do this properly but I just don’t do enough of them to justify the expense. This was just a homemade attempt and it didn’t go as I was wanting to.
@@restoroosterohv when the next build coming
@ReelLyferOS vid coming tonight
@@restoroosterohv sweet 💯
Once you get the crankshaft true can you spot-weld the pin so it stays true?
Not necessary. It’s not going anywhere. Adding any material to a crankshaft could throw the balance off, the heat could distort it and welding it could potentially cause issues if you ever needed to take it apart again.
Whats the number of your bearings? I'm building a stand. Many thanks.
a.co/d/28Ju5RG
Question: would there be a way to perfectly press the crank together without truing or no?
I guess anything is possible but if you did, buy a lottery ticket that night because it’s your lucky day
Only way I see the even remotely possible to have it controlled is with a nice press with a bunch of dial gouges so you can see if it's pressing on evenly but even then it's would still be a good idea to true it parts can heat up and slightly warps even if you press it on 100% straight it can still be off when it settles
Hey rooster. How can I get in touch with you? My pro x crankshaft rebuild kit came in the mail. My next step is getting it to you and getting you paid ofcourse.
Email me at restoroosterohv@gmail.com
@@restoroosterohv ok will do
Yo rooster can you cut my valves seats
I have a spare head and new valves the head is good but the seats are not too great
Message me at Restoroosterohv@gmail.com
@@restoroosterohvokay thanks
little overcomplicated. easier to find the low spot and hit it on the low spot. no need to hit it on the oposite side makes it more confusing and doesnt always work.
Sorry you didn’t like the info
@@restoroosterohv its not that i dont like it but it could make your life a little easier. I worked for crank works a while and picked up on a few things
@calebhubbard8685 got it. I appreciate you leaving a comment. This way just seems to work best for me.