You never have to apologize, work at your own pace, i am thankful to be able to watch even though i will probably never do such an overhaul. Things are really coming together, i remember sad little 1113 sitting in someone's back yard in the rain and snow and to know it is being given a new lease on life is extraordinary. She could just as well have ended up at a scrap yard. Thanks Toby.
Seems as though I remember Toby commenting in that video that this wouldn't be a restoration. Just parts lol. So glad he is doing it. Soooo interesting.
Great video, you somehow managed to make a weeks worth of tedious repetitive work entertaining to watch. Hoping this thing gets finished before spring 🤞
I found your channel a few days ago and am already about halfway through the entire #5j1113 playlist. Don't think I'll ever rebuild a dozer but I sure enjoy watching. You are a great teacher! Keep it up!
Can you imagine..........thee amount of people around the country, that get a big smile when the “Squatch” notification comes!! Love the attention to detail, both with narration and knowledge. Thx, p.s. say hello to SR!
One rebuild area that luckily wasn't needed here on Squatch's tractor is to build up worn rollers. Since new rollers are no longer available, when these wear, they need to be built up again, usually done by most folks with a stick welder using a Cat-approved method. That adds about the same amount of time again to the whole process of refurbishing the undercarriage, maybe more depending on how optimal the workshop flow is. On my D2, since the rollers are both worn and have bad bearings, I've elected to swap over to D3 rollers, which are a viable and actually cheaper alternative if a total rebuild is required. Early models have the same 6 1/8 pitch rails with just a slight difference in rail width, not enough to be an issue. There is some additional work involved with fitting D3 rollers due to dimensional differences, partly the roller diameter (smaller by 2" on the D3) and different bolt spacing. That could be a possible future video for Squatch on another tractor showing how it's done
That would be a good video to see. I just did that on my D2, left side track frame. I was having problems getting the bellows seals for the newer style rollers, and some other parts. I think I finally have all the seals and parts I need to put together 4 spare rollers, but then some of the rollers need rebuilding. Anyways I found it quite tricky to get the right spacing due to the smaller diameter rollers and the different mounting surface on the cups, and where the center line of the roller shaft is compared to the mounting surface. The roller diameter is 1 inch smaller, 6 vs 7. My first design said, okay need a 1/2” spacer, not realizing the difference in where the mounting surface was. Before I started cutting, welding and drilling, I decided to put both rollers side by side on the bench, in pieces of wood. I would have used the track frame, but the D3 rollers were about a 1/8” too wide to fit level in the frame. Turns out I was out by 3/4”, or so I thought, until I found out my level was broken. Ended up beginning about 5/8”. So the total spacer size needed is 1 & 1/16 to 1 & 1/8. I ended up bolting a 5/8” bar to the frame, the full length of the surface of the track frame where the rollers sit. I used 5/8” bolts. I am not sure why my track frame had pre-drilled and tapped holes, but that is what I used, just removed the cork. Then I made short 1/2” spacers just the length of the cup. Still had to widened the frame to get the d3 rollers to sit in properly without any binding when rolling. Ground some off the cups, and some off the rails. Less than a 1/16, all around. Was a big job drilling and tapping new holes in the spacers and frame, figuring out how to do it. If have heard some people just weld the spacers on, but then they still have to drill and tap new holes as the hole spacing is quite different between the D2 and D3 rollers. So far seems to be working fine, though I have not put many hours on it since due to have to replace the main clutch. Hope to have it going by next spring/summer, as I don’t have a place to stay right now, close to the shop where I can work on it. Might have to bring it out to BC from MB to work on it. Could be some volunteer work for me to do next year with all the flood and storm damage we just got in November.
Sir! It is hard to describe the pleasure to see a really Fine Mechanic in His element. My Uncle ran D-4 out in NE Montana in the mid-30s, during and after the dust bowl days. I was not alive when He was, so I did not meet him. As I watch You rebuild and recondition I feel connected to past Family Members
Watching that grease flow out of the end cap gave me anxiety! I wanted to scream at the top of my lungs to stop pumping, but I knew you wouldn’t have heard me 😂 Eh it happens. Keep up the quality work Squatch!
I am not sure why I am watching these videos. There is no chance that I will ever own or repair one of these but I love to see the attention to detail when people do projects like this. Thanks for posting another great video
squas. i,m 70 when i just started at cat 1970 i worked full time for a while on roller press , never once had to rebuild d2 roller they were old at that time . so , i,m learning something boy did i haft to pump out a bunch of 8h and 9 g and others
Man that’s a lot of time and effort that goes into the rebuilding of those rollers! As always great content! You never disappoint with the work you put into the D2, no need for apologies! We’re always glad to see your work man!👌😎👍
In my job with resistance seam welders i used a lube called Chrystal Solid Oil , Oilite bronze bushing 3.5 id 6 long, copper alloy shaft inside . 15,000 amps of current with water pouring on them ! That stuff was black as tar , thick as mud but it stood up to those conditions ! A spot on my jeans was still black when pants faded to white ! Great work on that tractor , my only experience with them was almost 65 years ago with an Allis Chalmers H D 5 that was in its prime at the time . Used it on a large farm and small landfill , The person that put those toothed rollers on trash compactors invented them because he got tired of digging wire out of the tracks on his dozer !
I must say, I am very impressed of your mechanical skills. It always pays back to be accurate when rebuilding or restoring old equipment. As being Swede, I am also glad, that the sealing rings from the Swedish quality manufacturer SKF did fit so well in this application. I think they will last as well as mine and yours lifetime together!
I would guess these track filling procedure is similar to what is desired in boat wheel bearings. You must want them 100% full such that water has no ability or room to get inside the seal. Once again, perfection.
I tend toward the perfectionist ways, but after watching this channel for a while I now catch myself thinking, “What would Squatch do?” when I’m working on my machinery. Love this stuff!
No need to apologize for anything, work like this takes time, and the time and focus you put into every detail is amazing. I enjoyed the field work content this summer, but was super excited to see you getting back in the shop and back to work on the old D2. Keep up the good work
This looks to be a perfect installation. NOS parts must be getting low for this equipment but great for this build. Very interesting as you present it and love the explanations of why things are done the way you do it.
According the 1971 service manual those Alemite Tractor Pumps develop up to 3000 lbs. pressure each stroke. So it's without a doubt packed in the rollers real good. Excellent job on the rebuild. 5J is certainly coming along nicely.
Your attention to detail is awesome. I like seeing anything old saved from a junkyard or rotting away. Am I going to buy/ rebuild a Cat D2? No, it’s not my thing, but watching you rebuild one is awesome. Keep up the good work, thank you for saving it from rotting away and for sharing the process
My friend, your posting has not been slow at all! If anything I think this has been going way faster than I thought it would. Thank you for the content! Don't feel rushed!
I sure wish I would have paid more attention back when my dad had his D2 as it was 46 years ago And I just don’t remember it but wish I did been watching your videos for a few years and I really like the shop ,farming videos and the earth moving 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That grease reminds me of the John Deere Cornhead grease. It is about like thick gear oil. Stuff really holds up well. I like to use it in wheel bearings as it stays in the bearing rather than getting slung out.
Your torque stick is operator quality controlled. After a decade you'll understand. I installed a new set of points with a witness looking on. To their amazement, I didn't use a feeler. 20 years will do that to you, carry-on chief, nice work!
I reverse the seals on my boat trailer with spring loaded "bearing buddies" with grease fittings. Two reasons: one to keep from grease jacking the seal out and the second to keep from sucking cold lake water into the hub and bearings that are still pretty warm from highway miles when launching the boat and the hubs get flash cooled under water.
Back in the seventies we filled the gearbox of our wornout Hathaway winch (North Atlantic fishing boat) with track roller lubricant which was something like 240weight hypoid, left the containers on top of the main engine for ten or twelve hours and still had to cut the bottoms out to get the stuff out of the containers. The winch made no noise afterwards
Being a heavy equipment mechanic is not about speed, it's about doing right. I trained my boss fairly early into my job at his construction company that that is the way I work, not slacking but efficient steady pace not leaving anything behind. when he found that there was less down time due to the outside hired field service mechanics he never came to tell me what to do. He would just ask how is it going and how long and then he left me alone. It worked out very good as a job and he paid me very well. I was there for 10yrs. and probably made over $80 thousand dollars/year ending in 1992. It was fantastic money back then. A divorce changed everything including my location so I had to quit.
Lol beautiful assembly and the oops with the flowable grease is how I remember it on all of dads equipment those alamite fittings worked well and the out flow plugs did what they were meant to do and no worries about your status changing because of a bit of seepage it happens. Your golden Squatch. Been looking forward to these videos. Great job.
Hi Squatch. How to quieten anti-click comments. I bet if you put a torque wrench onto the bolts everyone will find you tightened them into range by hand feel at any rate. Perfection!
Wow. Just wow ..I'm astonished at your work ethic and explanation of everything ..you your statement of repetition should be on everyone who works on tracks can't be said enough....😀😀😀😀
Ive been around equipment all my life and Ive never seen that type of Grease. That stuff is Awesome. The only thing I can think of is it must be REALLY EXPENSIVE, so My Old Man didnt get it, for his equipment. Great job on the Undercarriage . Its looking good.. I miss those old grease fittings. I wish they still used them on this new Junk equipment. But of course they dont use any grease fittings compared to what they used too. Great Video as always. Thanks for sharing it...
It’s been awhile for me, but as always, EXCELLENT instructional video. With the new prices of lumber, I hope you made a good buy on the semi fluid greas👍
I am glad you are back or should I say I am back, just a few tech problems with the computer is all. Watching you work is like drinking rum and Coke, relaxing and highly instructive. Looking forward to the rest of the rebuild. Cheers from kangaroo land.
Sure is nice seeing things coming together. There is SO much work that goes into these crawlers, it is ridiculous. Would be fun to take on a project of this scale..... Or maybe a steam traction engine. I would LOVE to build a scale 150hp Case... But that would be a LIFELONG build.
16:01 A grease containing molybdenum dioxide is a good choice for this. When the grease eventually dries out it will still leave the solid molybdenum dioxide in the thread ,which behaves in a similar way to graphite. Btw. most of the comment section would set a torque wrench incorrectly,anyway - not allowing for the grease on the threads.
I was with you on Anti-Seize for years... But when we started running big monoblock Alcon brakes and pin drive wheels in Trans AM/GT1, we were introduced to Walter Rock'n Roll for brake parts and pin drive nuts... it's a ceramic anti-seize, chemically inert, good to 2500° F, anti-corrosive and waterproof. It's awesome!!! Bolts/nuts never stick no matter how you much they are abused. I threw all my silver and copper junk away. I only use ceramic now.
@@flasher1663 Nothing really does. We worked Ticon and Titanium Dynamics on a working slip joint to quick change the turn-down on our exhaust to meet noise at various tracks. If they did fit precisely they'd heat lock, if they were loose they'd pack up... In the end, we just used V-bands and dealt with the time to change our tips.
Better than Anti Seize or grease is NoAlox /Penetrox etc. You can't use it for high temp applications but will outlast grease and works far better than anti-seize and does not wash out/off, as a bonus it prevents dissimilar metal corrosion when using steel fasteners in aluminium, a bonus for your location being in the rust belt. One of the best uses is on aluminium rims to prevent them from corroding onto the hub it also gets used for lug nuts/bolts.. I have used it for decades and have never had a fastener seize in/on or even corrode for that matter even 20 or 30 years later, after a coating of NoAlox /Penetrox
YUMMY!!!!! Caramel is my favorite. I tracked down my grandpas old d2 and was very shocked to find it was no. 5j1114. Great video as always. I was also wondering if you had or were willing to open a po box as I and possibly many other people would love to send you some wall hangers, vintage memorabilia, ect. Eli
The chances of me ever rebuilding a Cat are about as mathematically likely as me winning the lotto. But damn I love to see this work and wish I got a chance to do this type of stuff. I love this old hardware and how it goes together.
Lol I was just thinking that the rollers are different diameters! I thought you had said they’re all the same, but maybe I misunderstood. Then you pointed out that the camera gives an illusion of warping. And yes to grease over antisieze. I am sure there’s a time and place for it, this ain’t it.
Engine, transmission, and differential builder here...I have to say it does my heart good to see people using flowing grease as well as gluing shims, thrust washers, etc in place during assembly so they don't come loose and cause problems. Quality takes time. No worries on time between uploads. Love the videos as always.
7:15 Seems I remember when you tore these down, there were some misplaced roller assemblies.? 13:25 Ah-ha I was remembering correctly about the rollers... And that flowing grease, could it be similar to John Deere corn something grease.? As I Watch Wes Work... 22:40 I noticed you seem to have stacked the 32 SKS Seal boxes neatly back on the bench.?? Nice to see so much Old Soldier yellow on the saw horses for a change.!
The problem of putting the shims bvehind the thrust is that it pushed the thrust washer out of its retaining dents henc making it suseceptable to the sort of wear on the thrust you showed .
"...until human civilization finally finishes failing."
You are speaking my language! I knew I was here for a reason.
Repetition: Zen and the art of crawler tractor maintenance!
and lots of grease
Idda bought that box of 12-24 flat head screws, and made us kids wait. Monday came early, lol. I'm watching for the 3rd time...
Slow and methodical. This is going to end up being better than factory because it is put together with so much love.
You never have to apologize, work at your own pace, i am thankful to be able to watch even though i will probably never do such an overhaul. Things are really coming together, i remember sad little 1113 sitting in someone's back yard in the rain and snow and to know it is being given a new lease on life is extraordinary. She could just as well have ended up at a scrap yard. Thanks Toby.
Seems as though I remember Toby commenting in that video that this wouldn't be a restoration. Just parts lol. So glad he is doing it. Soooo interesting.
There's nothing better than Squatch and a glass of sweet tea.
I like my tea unsweetened. I know. Its crazy.
OOOOH, pony motor blocks on the floor. I'm waiting. :)
Civilization finished failing…. Well said.
Great video, you somehow managed to make a weeks worth of tedious repetitive work entertaining to watch. Hoping this thing gets finished before spring 🤞
Thank you again for continuing on the d2 overhaul. Your videos are awesome and very much appreciated and needed. Lucky us we have you as a teacher!
I like that engine stand in background.
I found your channel a few days ago and am already about halfway through the entire #5j1113 playlist. Don't think I'll ever rebuild a dozer but
I sure enjoy watching. You are a great teacher! Keep it up!
😂😂 love the machine sound when driving down seal retainer screws
Can you imagine..........thee amount of people around the country, that get a big smile when the “Squatch” notification comes!! Love the attention to detail, both with narration and knowledge. Thx, p.s. say hello to SR!
Another big part completed!!!! Thanks!
One rebuild area that luckily wasn't needed here on Squatch's tractor is to build up worn rollers. Since new rollers are no longer available, when these wear, they need to be built up again, usually done by most folks with a stick welder using a Cat-approved method. That adds about the same amount of time again to the whole process of refurbishing the undercarriage, maybe more depending on how optimal the workshop flow is. On my D2, since the rollers are both worn and have bad bearings, I've elected to swap over to D3 rollers, which are a viable and actually cheaper alternative if a total rebuild is required. Early models have the same 6 1/8 pitch rails with just a slight difference in rail width, not enough to be an issue. There is some additional work involved with fitting D3 rollers due to dimensional differences, partly the roller diameter (smaller by 2" on the D3) and different bolt spacing. That could be a possible future video for Squatch on another tractor showing how it's done
That would be a good video to see. I just did that on my D2, left side track frame. I was having problems getting the bellows seals for the newer style rollers, and some other parts. I think I finally have all the seals and parts I need to put together 4 spare rollers, but then some of the rollers need rebuilding. Anyways I found it quite tricky to get the right spacing due to the smaller diameter rollers and the different mounting surface on the cups, and where the center line of the roller shaft is compared to the mounting surface. The roller diameter is 1 inch smaller, 6 vs 7. My first design said, okay need a 1/2” spacer, not realizing the difference in where the mounting surface was. Before I started cutting, welding and drilling, I decided to put both rollers side by side on the bench, in pieces of wood. I would have used the track frame, but the D3 rollers were about a 1/8” too wide to fit level in the frame. Turns out I was out by 3/4”, or so I thought, until I found out my level was broken. Ended up beginning about 5/8”. So the total spacer size needed is 1 & 1/16 to 1 & 1/8. I ended up bolting a 5/8” bar to the frame, the full length of the surface of the track frame where the rollers sit. I used 5/8” bolts. I am not sure why my track frame had pre-drilled and tapped holes, but that is what I used, just removed the cork. Then I made short 1/2” spacers just the length of the cup. Still had to widened the frame to get the d3 rollers to sit in properly without any binding when rolling. Ground some off the cups, and some off the rails. Less than a 1/16, all around. Was a big job drilling and tapping new holes in the spacers and frame, figuring out how to do it. If have heard some people just weld the spacers on, but then they still have to drill and tap new holes as the hole spacing is quite different between the D2 and D3 rollers. So far seems to be working fine, though I have not put many hours on it since due to have to replace the main clutch. Hope to have it going by next spring/summer, as I don’t have a place to stay right now, close to the shop where I can work on it. Might have to bring it out to BC from MB to work on it. Could be some volunteer work for me to do next year with all the flood and storm damage we just got in November.
Thanks for the explanation of the single flange rollers.
Sir! It is hard to describe the pleasure to see a really Fine Mechanic in His element. My Uncle ran D-4 out in NE Montana in the mid-30s, during and after the dust bowl days. I was not alive when He was, so I did not meet him. As I watch You rebuild and recondition I feel connected to past Family Members
It is so refreshing to see someone who takes pride in his work. Good job!
Watching that grease flow out of the end cap gave me anxiety! I wanted to scream at the top of my lungs to stop pumping, but I knew you wouldn’t have heard me 😂
Eh it happens. Keep up the quality work Squatch!
Love the #2 grease visual and explanation as you are the expert.
Loved the torque click, I do that all the time
Wes uses the same torque wrench :D
Feeling bored then Squatch comes along to save the day.
Man oh man , I appreciate all the great information you share about these old Caterpillar tractors. Thank you so much!
I am not sure why I am watching these videos. There is no chance that I will ever own or repair one of these but I love to see the attention to detail when people do projects like this. Thanks for posting another great video
squas. i,m 70 when i just started at cat 1970 i worked full time for a while on roller press , never once had to rebuild d2 roller they were old at that time . so , i,m learning something boy did i haft to pump out a bunch of 8h and 9 g and others
Man that’s a lot of time and effort that goes into the rebuilding of those rollers! As always great content! You never disappoint with the work you put into the D2, no need for apologies! We’re always glad to see your work man!👌😎👍
Great..love your CAT vids 👍🏻
That’s one heck of a calibrated torque elbow!!🤣🤣
Ha ha. If he was older, or it was senior, I would say it is just old age lol! Just go by how many creaks in the joint.
I enjoyed your "torque" clicking noises, I do that too, makes my son and my friends all laugh. Another great video!
Excellent video it's nice to see the track frames getting done that's a huge step closer
@@squatch253 I can understand that 👍👍
In my job with resistance seam welders i used a lube called Chrystal Solid Oil , Oilite bronze bushing 3.5 id 6 long, copper alloy shaft inside . 15,000 amps of current with water pouring on them !
That stuff was black as tar , thick as mud but it stood up to those conditions ! A spot on my jeans was still black when pants faded to white ! Great work on that tractor , my only experience with them was almost 65 years ago with an Allis Chalmers H D 5 that was in its prime at the time . Used it on a large farm and small landfill , The person that put those toothed rollers on trash compactors invented them because he got tired of digging wire out of the tracks on his dozer !
Good quality presentations take valued time to create. Keep up the great work.
I must say, I am very impressed of your mechanical skills. It always pays back to be accurate when rebuilding or restoring old equipment. As being Swede, I am also glad, that the sealing rings from the Swedish quality manufacturer SKF did fit so well in this application. I think they will last as well as mine and yours lifetime together!
AvE would approve of the click.
I would guess these track filling procedure is similar to what is desired in boat wheel bearings. You must want them 100% full such that water has no ability or room to get inside the seal. Once again, perfection.
I tend toward the perfectionist ways, but after watching this channel for a while I now catch myself thinking, “What would Squatch do?” when I’m working on my machinery. Love this stuff!
Thank you for the video.
Watching from the ER. Feeling better already with a new Squatch vid! Breakfast can wait.
No need to apologize for anything, work like this takes time, and the time and focus you put into every detail is amazing. I enjoyed the field work content this summer, but was super excited to see you getting back in the shop and back to work on the old D2. Keep up the good work
This looks to be a perfect installation. NOS parts must be getting low for this equipment but great for this build. Very interesting as you present it and love the explanations of why things are done the way you do it.
The added sound effects of the torque wrench and the impact driver make the whole video :-)
According the 1971 service manual those Alemite Tractor Pumps develop up to 3000 lbs. pressure each stroke. So it's without a doubt packed in the rollers real good. Excellent job on the rebuild. 5J is certainly coming along nicely.
Your attention to detail is awesome. I like seeing anything old saved from a junkyard or rotting away. Am I going to buy/ rebuild a Cat D2? No, it’s not my thing, but watching you rebuild one is awesome. Keep up the good work, thank you for saving it from rotting away and for sharing the process
Good video
And good editing.
You are beyond meticulous. I’m so impressed.
Great work, I struggle with the repetitious work!
My friend, your posting has not been slow at all! If anything I think this has been going way faster than I thought it would.
Thank you for the content! Don't feel rushed!
I think it's a great revision work on this Cat D2. I must say, I am very impressed of your mechanical skills. Congratulation
I sure wish I would have paid more attention back when my dad had his D2 as it was 46 years ago And I just don’t remember it but wish I did been watching your videos for a few years and I really like the shop ,farming videos and the earth moving 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Love the wrenching and your eye to detail. Nice to see you back in the shop.
That grease reminds me of the John Deere Cornhead grease. It is about like thick gear oil. Stuff really holds up well. I like to use it in wheel bearings as it stays in the bearing rather than getting slung out.
Basically 00 grease. Snapper used it in mower transmissions.
So happy to see progress on the D2 Toby! I’ve been watching since the beginning and can’t wait for that first start up.
The only reason I watch these videos is to be able to give a thumbs up!
Well, they are interesting too, I suppose. Lol.
Keep up the good work.
16:38 That's some shop ASMR right there 😊
Very thorough and professional tutorial! Thank you.
Like watching you do this, I'll never do something like this but I find it very interesting and like learning about it.
Your torque stick is operator quality controlled. After a decade you'll understand. I installed a new set of points with a witness looking on. To their amazement, I didn't use a feeler. 20 years will do that to you, carry-on chief, nice work!
I reverse the seals on my boat trailer with spring loaded "bearing buddies" with grease fittings. Two reasons: one to keep from grease jacking the seal out and the second to keep from sucking cold lake water into the hub and bearings that are still pretty warm from highway miles when launching the boat and the hubs get flash cooled under water.
Back in the seventies we filled the gearbox of our wornout Hathaway winch (North Atlantic fishing boat) with track roller lubricant which was something like 240weight hypoid, left the containers on top of the main engine for ten or twelve hours and still had to cut the bottoms out to get the stuff out of the containers. The winch made no noise afterwards
That was amazing work, plenty of Grease...... thanks
I’m with you on grease instead of turning into the tin man! I feel the grease helps from corrosion better than antisieze
The best bit about antisieze is the tub with a brush, I fill the tub with grease when it's empty so I get the best of both worlds.
Thanks buddy looks great can’t wait to see more
Being a heavy equipment mechanic is not about speed, it's about doing right. I trained my boss fairly early into my job at his construction company that that is the way I work, not slacking but efficient steady pace not leaving anything behind. when he found that there was less down time due to the outside hired field service mechanics he never came to tell me what to do. He would just ask how is it going and how long and then he left me alone. It worked out very good as a job and he paid me very well. I was there for 10yrs. and probably made over $80 thousand dollars/year ending in 1992. It was fantastic money back then. A divorce changed everything including my location so I had to quit.
Lol beautiful assembly and the oops with the flowable grease is how I remember it on all of dads equipment those alamite fittings worked well and the out flow plugs did what they were meant to do and no worries about your status changing because of a bit of seepage it happens. Your golden Squatch. Been looking forward to these videos. Great job.
Toby you are doing fine. I will take the quality of your content over the quantity any day. As ARW says KO-KO (Keep on Keeping on )
The comfort of routine. Just that you have more of it. ;)
Right on
Repetition is mind numbing but also dangerous as if you lose focus mistakes can be so easily made great attention to detail 👍
Hi Squatch. How to quieten anti-click comments. I bet if you put a torque wrench onto the bolts everyone will find you tightened them into range by hand feel at any rate. Perfection!
Great video. Love seeing how things go together on the track rollers.
Superb attention to detail!
I knew better but was ready to give you hell for not prelubing bearing surfaces and seals. lol!
Enjoyed the video!
Wow. Just wow ..I'm astonished at your work ethic and explanation of everything ..you your statement of repetition should be on everyone who works on tracks can't be said enough....😀😀😀😀
Thanks for taking the time and making these wonderfull videos.
You Sir, are a true master. I get inspired by you, Hopefully I can do a good job on my D5.
A few days work, can hear the crickets and heaters.. :P
Ive been around equipment all my life and Ive never seen that type of Grease. That stuff is Awesome. The only thing I can think of is it must be REALLY EXPENSIVE, so My Old Man didnt get it, for his equipment. Great job on the Undercarriage . Its looking good.. I miss those old grease fittings. I wish they still used them on this new Junk equipment. But of course they dont use any grease fittings compared to what they used too. Great Video as always. Thanks for sharing it...
Getting excited to see her going back together
It’s been awhile for me, but as always, EXCELLENT instructional video. With the new prices of lumber, I hope you made a good buy on the semi fluid greas👍
Nice
Thanks for showing the procedure.
I am glad you are back or should I say I am back, just a few tech problems with the computer is all. Watching you work is like drinking rum and Coke, relaxing and highly instructive. Looking forward to the rest of the rebuild. Cheers from kangaroo land.
Sure is nice seeing things coming together. There is SO much work that goes into these crawlers, it is ridiculous. Would be fun to take on a project of this scale..... Or maybe a steam traction engine. I would LOVE to build a scale 150hp Case... But that would be a LIFELONG build.
16:01 A grease containing molybdenum dioxide is a good choice for this. When the grease eventually dries out it will still leave the solid molybdenum dioxide in the thread ,which behaves in a similar way to graphite.
Btw. most of the comment section would set a torque wrench incorrectly,anyway - not allowing for the grease on the threads.
This is a great site! I am motivated to do my own Cat!! Now if I can only get my brother Frank in on the project! Thanks Squatch!!
My favorite part of the whole movie was the "click,click". Haha
I was with you on Anti-Seize for years... But when we started running big monoblock Alcon brakes and pin drive wheels in Trans AM/GT1, we were introduced to Walter Rock'n Roll for brake parts and pin drive nuts... it's a ceramic anti-seize, chemically inert, good to 2500° F, anti-corrosive and waterproof. It's awesome!!! Bolts/nuts never stick no matter how you much they are abused. I threw all my silver and copper junk away. I only use ceramic now.
Doesn’t work worth a crap on titanium exhaust connectors
@@flasher1663 Nothing really does. We worked Ticon and Titanium Dynamics on a working slip joint to quick change the turn-down on our exhaust to meet noise at various tracks. If they did fit precisely they'd heat lock, if they were loose they'd pack up... In the end, we just used V-bands and dealt with the time to change our tips.
Better than Anti Seize or grease is NoAlox /Penetrox etc. You can't use it for high temp applications but will outlast grease and works far better than anti-seize and does not wash out/off, as a bonus it prevents dissimilar metal corrosion when using steel fasteners in aluminium, a bonus for your location being in the rust belt. One of the best uses is on aluminium rims to prevent them from corroding onto the hub it also gets used for lug nuts/bolts.. I have used it for decades and have never had a fastener seize in/on or even corrode for that matter even 20 or 30 years later, after a coating of NoAlox /Penetrox
Christmas wish... Cloned Squatch253 advicing on my 7U
YUMMY!!!!! Caramel is my favorite. I tracked down my grandpas old d2 and was very shocked to find it was no. 5j1114. Great video as always. I was also wondering if you had or were willing to open a po box as I and possibly many other people would love to send you some wall hangers, vintage memorabilia, ect. Eli
Thats gonna be a nice machine
Love the squatch torque bar haha
Thanks for info on type of grease for undercarraige Never felt comfortable using standard grease!!
The chances of me ever rebuilding a Cat are about as mathematically likely as me winning the lotto. But damn I love to see this work and wish I got a chance to do this type of stuff. I love this old hardware and how it goes together.
Young Man just won $80 million. Mabe he will do a Squatch253?.
Looks like you could make some nasty caramel apples with that grease.
Lol I was just thinking that the rollers are different diameters! I thought you had said they’re all the same, but maybe I misunderstood. Then you pointed out that the camera gives an illusion of warping. And yes to grease over antisieze. I am sure there’s a time and place for it, this ain’t it.
Engine, transmission, and differential builder here...I have to say it does my heart good to see people using flowing grease as well as gluing shims, thrust washers, etc in place during assembly so they don't come loose and cause problems. Quality takes time. No worries on time between uploads. Love the videos as always.
7:15 Seems I remember when you tore these down, there were some misplaced roller assemblies.? 13:25 Ah-ha I was remembering correctly about the rollers... And that flowing grease, could it be similar to John Deere corn something grease.? As I Watch Wes Work... 22:40 I noticed you seem to have stacked the 32 SKS Seal boxes neatly back on the bench.?? Nice to see so much Old Soldier yellow on the saw horses for a change.!
My $5/qt cornhead grease seems a lot cheaper though. Quality and price.
The problem of putting the shims bvehind the thrust is that it pushed the thrust washer out of its retaining dents henc making it suseceptable to the sort of wear on the thrust you showed .