In Québec, its pretty the same, but here we NEVER fixe a box by the outside, unless we need too, like when we need to shime the box 1’’ and more. Because as you said customer always change mind. Really easy to add a gang box when you can remove the box without damaging the drywall.
Ontario. Doing a basement bathroom now. It was suggested to me that I bring power in from panel to GFI then run to switch then run to fixtures. That way GFI acts as a breaker. Sound good.?
Same here, such a clear cut way of showing how to do stuff with a cool attitude. I watch some of these even if I’m not working on whatever the videos about. Good stuff
I’m a first time home owner and have an unfinished basement. Your videos give me so much confidence to tackle it on my own (minus the floor - your advice). You sir are doing a great service to all us DIYers. Can’t thank you enough.
Jeff, I have said it before and I will say it again; I am so impressed that you don't edit out your little mistakes, we all make them. I have yet to find a RUclips contractor that I respect more than you. Your teaching skills are just what most people need and I for one have been the beneficiary of those skills many times. It seems every time I am about to do a project, I check with you first and you already have a video on it. Please Keep up the good... Excellent Work.
I like that you actually didn't edit out your forgotten wire mistake, Happens to us all. Especially when video taping and trying to educate others. A+ video for newbies.
Every time you ran your knife down the wire it gave me the shivers. People do not realize how easy it is to cut the insulation on the individual wires inside. A lot of the troubleshooting I do for a tripping breaker is because of a skinned wire. Do yourself a huge favor and only cut about 2 inches from the end and peal the jacket then cut off. PS Sharpen that bit so you do not have to put the drill in reverse to get it out! Rock On!!
Although I'm 71 years old and don't Invision doing a bathroom I find listening and watching you a pleasure. And might be able to use your tips in other diy stuff that pops up. Thanks so much.
Not sure what it is but I could listen to this guy talk about paint drying and I'd be engaged + this guy has saved me so much $ by giving great direction on numerous jobs
I'm a female watching your videos, they are awesome, I've learned a whole lot. You are SO right about makeup lighting thank you for mentioning that. Shadows are horrible and lighting is extremely important.
I love this channel. Every time, I leave thinking, "Yeah, I can do that." It's like having someone do the first one for you. I'm buying a place that has the beginnings of a tiny house, just the shell and some insulation. It's largely because of this channel that I feel confident enough to take on such a project with no prior experience (and almost no money, if I'm being honest). It's a little daunting, but also massively empowering. Thank you for that. 🤗
There no doubt that being from a country really define us. My boss was from Vietnam and never wanted to cut the wire extra longer. Look at this Canadian guy , he is great!! He cuts extra longer and won't care about a couple of cents of wire wasted. Viva Canada and america!!??
you can have the switch within reach of the shower, but it would also have to be on a GFI. Also if you already have a GFI breaker you don't need any more GFI outlets. Love the videos
Man, you are a god send to anyone doing any kind of home project. I don't even look for other videos anymore. Anytime I'm starting a new project, the first thing i do is search your library of videos. Thank you for all that you do!
To me, a PhD represents a very large body of knowledge in a particular field. Hence, Dr. Thorman and his doctorate in all things building wise. When I really got the DIY bug, Jeff was there to humorously explain my road ahead in practical, intelligent terms. I’m creating a bathroom downstairs right now and this good man is right there with his RUclipss to save me time and frustration. What a library he is a building using some of the Internet’s best videography. These are gems.
i do all the same stuff for a living as our good friend here an must say im loving this channel.. have never subscribed to one before but think this ones worth it. An I have learned a bunch of tricks that made my life easier. Thanks a bunch an will be learning alot more from you. In New York here most buildings are 100+ years old.. lol
I learn so much from your videos. Thank you for making them. I doubt I'll be doing my own electric in my bathroom but I'll know enough to make sure whoever does it does it right.
Hello. I've been an electrician for 20 years. This guy really does have a ton of knowledge. I like his better safe than sorry mentality known to the rest of the world as common sense. Granted, the codes are different in the great space of Canada, but all in all dude really knows his stuff. Keep up the awesome work !! BTW your 18 tips for drywalling video is AMAZING!!!!!!
Your Awesome Jeff. Very easy to understand. You know enough to not try to speak to everyone like they are a general contractor. Best RUclips channel Cheers Chris
Love this. I started my bathroom remodel myself , heated floor, drop in place of stock tub with a jacuzzi (that will need electric ) and bigger shower . This is perfect. Cheers
Great video....I've been an electrician for 13 years and I have confidence in your install! My only suggestion is to wire up your junction boxes before the drywall goes on. Make all your joints, install all your little tails and marettes, then carefully coil the wiring to be connected to the device just behind where the device is to go. This is essential when you have many cables coming into a box, and have too many tasks on the go to try remember what is what. Also, this method will allow anyone to install devices without having completed the rough in themselves. Not necessary when you are doing a small job by yourself but still a good habit. This will eliminate most mistakes that could be made, speed up your install and help to keep the painted drywall clean since you have much less work to do to install the devices. I don't know how many times I've gotten the call to come wire someones house, only to get there to find rats nests of wiring coming out of multibanks of switches, and all the drywall installed. Then they give me the "You're the electrician" line. When a homeowner says: "I'll wire it, you just hook it up for me", never take the job.Thanks for the great vid....I can tell by the way you work that this is not your first barbeque.....but I won't tell ESA that lol.
I just spent more time reading the comments than this video took... ugh ! He said at the beginning that code is different everywhere ,he pulled a permit and it 'll be inspected by the ( ESA ) the Electrical Safety Authority. Nice work Jeff .
I’m in the Detroit area and while finishing my basement I’ve watched a few videos and enjoyed the information you’ve given. When I ran my wire I put my roll of wire by the breaker panel and ran it to my farthest outlet or switch then connected everything. It helped not having a ton of extra wire to clean up. Plus if I needed more I just pulled some more down the line.
I live in Medicine Hat Alberta. The codes are very similar to Ontario if not the same, if I remember 30 yrs ago stuff and things. I got lost on a few things you were doing, so that means I have to watch again to point them out. No it wasn't the floor heating. That was something I never worked with. So Thanks for that info! Great video once again.
You also want to remember that NEC states that you have to have a minimum of 6 inches of workable conductor from the face of the box and not the back. The best way to determine this is to use the length of your wire cutters to determine the length of the wire. I also like the idea of leaving a service loop in the wall for future electrical replacements.
Just for clarity's sake. 120v × 0.5A = 60W. A quarter of a 60W light bulb is 15 Watts. Presume it was just a mistaken slip. Thanks for all this Jeff. I truly appreciate it, and I know all those watching do as well. Edit: you said it was low voltage so this math may be missing necessary information.
This video is designed to take the mystique out if doing your own electrical. always consult the code for electrical in your area before beginning any work to ensure you are code compliant., Cheers!
@@Skylane2005 Care to explain the issues you're seeing. I've found in my career the guys that don't know much are the one's who say "I can't believe you did it that way." While the guys who know what they're doing will say "I've found this method works best and here's why." Be a teacher instead of an excuse maker, it'll change your life.
Haven't seen this kind of box. I love the ground wire connections at the back of the box. Here they all have to be tied together with a wire nut. This is way better.
Jeff, your content is so well done, and I love how you have a solution for everything a DIYer may come across. I'm renovating my first home (built in the 1950's) to save some money and I've been binge watching all of your videos. They're incredibly invaluable. Thank you for sharing what you do.
I don't have any plans on renovating my bathroom but this guy took a boring subject and made it so damn interesting. He is a Godsend. It's impressive how much you can learn from him in under an hour.
Thank u so much for talking about how far apart the lights have to be for the dark spots. I found out light will sometimes affect my vertigo we just ran new lights in our bathroom and couldn't figure out what was going on every time I would walk in it had never been an issue in the past. This explains everything thank you, it might be a pain to go back up there to add a couple more lights but to save me a headace down the road itll be easy
I believe all plugs are ran on 12- 2 the yellow sleeve and for lighting 14 you know the white sleeved ones. If you create too much heat using incorrect wiring you'll burn the house down so 12-2 for plugs and 14 for wiring you can look at gauge chart it will tell you what plugs and what wiring to use and you won't be spending that much more for the correct wiring.
Utah its required for 12gage 20Amp circuit dedicated plug GFCI. Ive run a 12-3 up to the exhaust fan in case I want to change out the fan to a fan and light combo. Used some scrap 2x10 sideways between studs with pocket screws around towel bar height to give me more options and something solid to screw into.
Great vid, two things, I noticed when you pulled your wire into the metal wall box through the knocked out tabs you did not put in any twin screw clamps? Is it not required to have that or some kind of grommet to protect against chafing? Second, dude throw on some safety glasses. Watching you drill overhead like that gave me the heebie-jeebies. Many moons ago got a piece of metal in my eye by being careless almost lost sight. Cheers!
I am literally in the middle of a complete bathroom remodel of a century farm house. Love this channel and I use it for all my remodeling now and forever!
Main problems I've had are weird double layer drywall 18"x4' nailed every 3 inches. Demo was horrible. Plus the old corner bead they used in the day was a wire netting, super annoying!
At 1:26 - Actually, the Code requires a separate 20A circuit (with 12-2 wire) for the receptacle outlets. And they must be GFI-protected. Also, 14-3 is used for the exhaust fan if it contains a built-in light. Black powers the fan motor, red powers the light.
you should have listened further, indeed 210-11(c)(3) applies, but there is the exception "Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2)." So as long as the 20 amp breaker that supplies the GFCI doesn't supply any other bathrooms he is good to go using it for other items in the bathroom.
@@fd3871ou are absolutely correct FD. I have an extra 20 amp GFCI protected circuit for the floor heat in my master bathroom, but that is just me. Everything I do in my own house is better than code. I am not trying to make a living when I am working on my own house. Russ-Journeyman Electrician.
@@fd3871 Yes, that's true. But my point was that the entire bathroom CANNOT be wired with just 14-2 wire, as the guy was aiming to do. Only the lights can, as well as a basic exhaust fan without a light.
@@fd3871 It seems however that he is using 2 14-2 circuits in the bathroom, one for lighting and 1 for the gfci and floor heat. The exception only applies if he is running 1 20 amp circuit to the bathroom and all lighting in addition to the gfci are all on a 20 amp homerun for only the bathroom. With him running a 14-2 home run then it is required to run a 20 amp circuit for the gfci on the vanity and no other outlets on that circuit. In most cases that I have seen the floor heating manufacture requires a second circuit to feed just the floor heat and be gfci protected. I also thought any lighting inside of a bathtub had to be gfci protected as well.
Im an electrician in Quebec. I wire most baths 1 circuit is plenty for lights, fan, and a blowdryer. 1st to gfi, so loads lighting and fan from it are all protected by gfi. Heating is another circuit always 240v either floor or baseboard heat to thermostat.
Keep it up! Not everyone needs a college degree for a desk job. The trades pay great! We have a massive shortage of helpers/journey men etc in the electric field.
Finally coming back to this after initially watching because I'm doing my first switch and wiring in my wife's new sewing room! Taking all the notes in my DIY notebook hehehe
Good video Jeff. I am under the assumption that stapling the wire to the bottom of the joists is a no-go, even with strapping before drywall. If the drywall is up, it would be no problem to fish through that area. Maybe depends on what the inspector sees in his 5min rough inspection, and if you have the ceiling boarded up by then :)
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I saw you run the wire to the bottom of the joists and wondered if you would pass inspection. Then I saw something about your strapping.... Will you pass inspection that way? Or will the wire clear your strapping for the drywall?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Hi Jeff. I love all your videos! I've been reamed out by a master electrician for attaching wire beneath a joist because the drywall supposedly pinches it and risks it being screwed into on drywall attachment. I understand this latter argument. Why not make holes in the joists like we do in studs?
Great video as always! I started looking into investing in real estate which led me to wanting videos to know how to know how to properly assess the condition of a house and what repairs are needed. I've started practicing myself and your videos helped me feel comfortable in replacing my own sink and PVC piping that was leaking in my bathroom and it was a great success! Much of what you are saying here is a little over my head, but I don't necessarily see a problem with that. Take in what I know and Google what I don't. Thank you for your wealth of information!
Great Video, Make sure you have 2" clearance from wire run and drywall, (ceiling on the wire between the straps). Also if your box is more than 4", then you need support. And last thing, NEW CODE , sure you run the heated floors wire and sensor wire though core line ( flexible plastic pipe)
Thanks for the vid. I am over in Thailand just getting to the electrical stage of my house. They do things a little different over here and no codes to follow. I want to be as lose as I can to code. I have alot of aluminium aerated block walls and full on steel stud walls that they are not use to. This was a big help. Thanks.
Excellent point about blocking out for wall switch beside the door. I do it regardless of size trim. I had an "electrician" tell me, You can't put that there, I've got to put my switch box there".... Ok....it's the same kind of lumber as the king stud, be my guest.😉😁
If he would have used a 4-inch square box with brackets he could have just ran what would be a fire block and put the Box anywhere he wanted to with a two gang mud ring . Also 54 inches is too high + 42" or 46" to the top is the ADA Compliant height, I never put my boxes on the nearest stud that is cheesy , this guy makes excuses for everything, I don't make excuses my shit works and I've never failed inspection
Haha.. Awesome. The whole time he was sealing up the box, I was wondering what his plan was for the wiring..? Lol But hey, as a fellow Canadian in Alberta, I do appreciate the videos and information about code and whatnot. Good videos!
Wow! The vital information density is simply blowing our brains! :) I`m doing my DIY renovation of just purchased property. I`m an engeneer, I know how to do this in theory, but I have to learn a lot about standards and requirements to not being in a trouble with posssible inspections in future. How I can find any regulations with what we have seen - a distance from the water, between clamps, etc etc etc... I want my job wouldn`t look suspicious. Earlier I wanted to place a semi-hidden power point next to the toilet pan to feed a heated "smart seat", and now I have a doubt whether it`s OK according the rules... But it would be ugly to leave a long extension cord from the toilet seat to the nearest "established" power point... I`m stuck :) Secondly I wanted install a trendy additional waterfall shower head (ceiling mounted) and after your video I have to clearly understand how much distance I have to keep from this water source to the closest downlight... Or, might be not alowed to use ceiling lights at alll due to this shower head location... And the last one I have to replace a standard bath tub with a corner SPA which has all the SPA pump, heater and electronic controller mounted together ad it must be located in a void between the SPA and its outside trim. It requires 25 amps power, so needs an individual power line. A master switch must be instaled in this bathroom. And it`s still a wet area... Where I can locate this switch ... There are lots of questions. I hope you can suggest me how I can find an appropriate information about that :) Thank you. That`s not USA, Australia
You got my Sub on "...and then you're gonna realize...I forgot to run the wire...". Great job, and notwithstanding this omission you clearly know a shit ton about doing this work. Thanks!
Love your videos im binge watching them. Id love to see a video about the top 10 things a electrical inspector looks for when looking at a residential rough in inspection. You seem to know what codes there are and are very educated.
I have 4 short extension cords to use when we travel. Two are commercial 2 wire with ground ones that light if they have power. I made two very short cords [about three inches]. One is 2 wire with ground and the other is polarized 2 wire. Most of my stuff is universal voltage input [100 -240 volts; 50/60 cycle] but has USA plugs. I travel with fewer adapters to plug into the wall wherever I happen to be. I buy my plug to socket adapters at Walmart. I used them and Walmart multiplug bars to create photo light panels.
This is great information for new construction or a complete restoration. My house was built in 1957. No grounding wires just two conductors inside a cloth sheathing. I would love to rewire my entire house and make it safer. To have an electrician do it would cost 11,000 dollars or more. I don't see any way to put a staple in every 5 feet in a finished wall or even one foot from the box. I have a crawl space and an attic. I don't mind getting dirty and running cable. I guess the government would rather you have old, dangerous wiring in a house, than run new cable yourself. Codes are not always a good thing. I will probably wait until I can afford to have it done by a licensed electrician, if the house doesn't burn down first.
Those are some goofy staples, never seen them here in the US like that. At $20.00-$40.00 a pop for good lineman's I prefer to use a harbor freight $5.00 hammer than my lineman's..just saying.. :-) I would be happy to send you a box of cheep hammers if you need them...hehe.. We generally run some type of conduit down to the floor to make it easier to fish the load wire from the floor heat into the box with the thermostat in it. I like your patience in dealing with us electricians and non electrician comments. Looking forward to your next video.
Those staples are used in Canada, and they are excellent. They have "stops" on them so you can gauge how deep to pound them in. They're also metal so they won't break like the plastic ones in cold climates. I wish Thomas & Betts distributed them here in the USA, but they're only CSA approved, not UL approved.
I have a set of line man pliers, and the top and bottom of the jaws are actually knurled , sort of like a framing hammer that's knurled, so the pliers don't slip when you are hitting the nail of the staple
prob dont have to say here in Ireland at this stage,but here we use 2.5mm twin and earth - brown live,blue neg,yellow green earth,for sockets,fans,etc 1.5mm for lighting circuits only. 6.00mm for power to the oven and hob. here we are 220-240v and although diy does happen,its not legal,everything has to be certified by a registered electrican for insurance etc. also heres an extract from our regs Special precautions are necessary in the bathroom because the wet surroundings pose a greater risk of electric shock than anywhere else in the house. For this reason, no sockets other than specially designed shaver outlets are allowed in bathrooms. Portable appliances such as hairdryers, radios or heaters must not be used in the bathroom, even if plugged in outside the bathroom. Electric showers and heaters must be installed by a registered electrical contractor loving the vids,keep up the great work.
1.9k thumbs up, 39 thumbs down as of May 25, 2019. Gotta be the highest % likes on RUclips. You are a boss Jeff. Thanks for your straightforward, effective teaching methods.
Dude, you are a genius!! I watched one of your videos last night and subscribed! This is the second one and I love it. You're quick, but thorough and explain everything. You keep a good pace in your videos and explain everything that laymen homeowners like me need to know, even if they've got previous experience but might be missing some details.
If I had my bills paid for the next 6 months.....I could see working for you for free just to gain more hands-on experience and start rehabbing my own homes. Thanks for sharing your talents and insights with the world wide web. I am thankful for your help. You have helped PLENTY! I am now regretting NOT putting in a heated floor under the tiles. The wife didn't want to have the expense and now we have a little heater that sits on the floor.... Slightly tacky.....but oh well. Not gonna rip the tiles up now! Thanks again!
If I had the option, I would NEVER put all the lights on one switch!!! MANY times you’re only using one part of the room at a time - and when you need the potty in the middle of the night, being blinded is not a positive experience! The lights over the shower and/or over the toilet I always put on their own switch - and I’ve never regretted it!!! Great explanations and tips! Also make sure you have enough plugs for multiple device use ... and maybe a USB switch too, since people are always trying to charge things everywhere- including the bathroom ;-)
Hey man... Makes more sense: the panel is in the basement, fixtures are on the ceiling. Put your wires in the switch box the other way around. Unwritten rule from licensed guy and less wire used, less guessing for troubleshooting later. The point of screws is to be able to remove the box later when needed. Put the mounting screws in on an angle as if the drywall is there. That's why electricians use 6" impact bits. A properly cut in switch box would have neutrals tied together and tails off the hot so any apprentice can throw switches in later. Just a few tips.
oooh, so thats why the switch is outside the bathroom in the hall, "36 rule"! i think down here in the US its so that you can turn the lights off on who ever is in the bathroom once theyve settled in. there goes that idea about garbage disposal and switch in shower install.
Great video! Just wanted to learn a little about running wire and learned a whole lot. I'm usually got a huge fan of long videos, but I found all parts to be pretty quick to the chase and relevant. Looking forward to watching more by you!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Pretty everything has to be ground fault or arc fault now. I just run the breakers that do both. The 20A breaker is because many ladies have lots of electric hair appliances.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Yeah, you want a larger wire for more load for things like hair dryers & according to the IRC (International Residential Code) you need to have a GFI outlet within 36 inches of the lavatory. It's so people can plug in their shavers, electric toothbrushes, hair dryers, & whatever other appliances people use.
"...don't know too many cases where you would use 14/3 in a bathroom..." What about running the fan exhaust and light on separate switches. Is that not common?
He’s obviously never wired a jack and Jill bathroom before where it’s a shared bath between two bedroom doors. Admittedly, he isn’t an electrician but his work in this video is laughable. Canada’s code is supposed to be better than the US, but this workmanship wouldn’t get you a job anywhere in the states.
matthew bowman eh 14 wire should really only be used in small applications. If you plan on having multiple fixtures and or plugs on the same circuit just spend the lil extra and run 12 with 20 amps instead of 15
in most places code requires a 20 amp gfci receptacle in the bathroom. 20 amps requires 12/2 wire. Some hair dryers can trip a 15 amp breaker, add in a curling iron and it will trip for sure.
Here in Taxachusetts you need a 20 amp cir for the outlet which would be a number 12 wire then for the lighting would be a separate circuit which would be a 14 -2 15 amp circuit, I like to run a three wire from the switch to the fan light combination because when my daughter is in there putting on make up she don’t wanna listen to the fan so they’re on separate switches
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Let me know where you live and what type of wire the code requires where you live. Cheers!
Originally UK where we have "real" power, not your mickey mouse 110v stuff :-) Now Atlantic Canada, so pretty much same as Ont.
I am in Australia. Also, I am not quite up to your level, just a beginner @ DIY.
In Québec, its pretty the same, but here we NEVER fixe a box by the outside, unless we need too, like when we need to shime the box 1’’ and more. Because as you said customer always change mind. Really easy to add a gang box when you can remove the box without damaging the drywall.
Ontario. Doing a basement bathroom now. It was suggested to me that I bring power in from panel to GFI then run to switch then run to fixtures. That way GFI acts as a breaker. Sound good.?
Il am in France but love so much your videos
I’m not even doing renovations. This dude is just so interesting I’ve spent a few hours to watch him hang drywall and run his electricity.
Cheers Philip!
I agree!!
Danny h h
I want to be a homeowner because of your series. I feel like even I could do this now!
Same here, such a clear cut way of showing how to do stuff with a cool attitude. I watch some of these even if I’m not working on whatever the videos about. Good stuff
when a craftsman shares his 'tips and tricks' that is such a gift to DIY'ers. Your vids are great and you do make it look easy. Thanks!
Jeff you sure do get a lot of praise but I think we all need to sit back and give thanks to the camera person too! In every video they are spot on.
This guy is so interesting to watch. I love the way that he is organized and full of good ideas. Well done!!👌
I’m a first time home owner and have an unfinished basement. Your videos give me so much confidence to tackle it on my own (minus the floor - your advice). You sir are doing a great service to all us DIYers. Can’t thank you enough.
Jeff, I have said it before and I will say it again; I am so impressed that you don't edit out your little mistakes, we all make them. I have yet to find a RUclips contractor that I respect more than you. Your teaching skills are just what most people need and I for one have been the beneficiary of those skills many times. It seems every time I am about to do a project, I check with you first and you already have a video on it. Please Keep up the good... Excellent Work.
I like that you actually didn't edit out your forgotten wire mistake, Happens to us all. Especially when video taping and trying to educate others. A+ video for newbies.
Every time you ran your knife down the wire it gave me the shivers. People do not realize how easy it is to cut the insulation on the individual wires inside. A lot of the troubleshooting I do for a tripping breaker is because of a skinned wire. Do yourself a huge favor and only cut about 2 inches from the end and peal the jacket then cut off.
PS Sharpen that bit so you do not have to put the drill in reverse to get it out!
Rock On!!
I see people use their utility knife all the time and I assume the same thing but never knew for sure if people were damaging the insulation or not
amen brother
Or buy a Klein romex stripper. Tho they are a little pricey.
Although I'm 71 years old and don't Invision doing a bathroom I find listening and watching you a pleasure. And might be able to use your tips in other diy stuff that pops up. Thanks so much.
Cheers Larry, all knowledge lends itself to other disciplines.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I will be 74 in the fall, and I really enjoy your approach to work. Your use of "common sense", is refreshing.
Thanks for helping me turn a house built in 67 into my wifes dream home. You sir are the best!
Happy to help. Cheers! And well done. !!!!!
Not sure what it is but I could listen to this guy talk about paint drying and I'd be engaged + this guy has saved me so much $ by giving great direction on numerous jobs
like a study! Respect how everything is explained by you, priceless, with so much attention to detail, unbelievably good and your job as a builder!!!
Thanks Oliver, Cheers!
I was 22 when I started to learn residential wiring as a helper that was 50 years ago. I got some good tips from this video. Never stop learning.
I never thought of that concept with lighting. Keeping it balanced to avoid strain on the eyes. GREAT TIP! But then you ALWAYS have great tips!
I'm a female watching your videos, they are awesome, I've learned a whole lot. You are SO right about makeup lighting thank you for mentioning that. Shadows are horrible and lighting is extremely important.
I love this channel. Every time, I leave thinking, "Yeah, I can do that." It's like having someone do the first one for you.
I'm buying a place that has the beginnings of a tiny house, just the shell and some insulation. It's largely because of this channel that I feel confident enough to take on such a project with no prior experience (and almost no money, if I'm being honest). It's a little daunting, but also massively empowering. Thank you for that. 🤗
There no doubt that being from a country really define us. My boss was from Vietnam and never wanted to cut the wire extra longer. Look at this Canadian guy , he is great!! He cuts extra longer and won't care about a couple of cents of wire wasted. Viva Canada and america!!??
you can have the switch within reach of the shower, but it would also have to be on a GFI. Also if you already have a GFI breaker you don't need any more GFI outlets. Love the videos
Exactly what I was about to say about the gfi set up
Man, you are a god send to anyone doing any kind of home project. I don't even look for other videos anymore. Anytime I'm starting a new project, the first thing i do is search your library of videos. Thank you for all that you do!
In the US, the bathroom GFCI need to be on a 20A circuit so you need to use 12/2 for that.
To me, a PhD represents a very large body of knowledge in a particular field. Hence, Dr. Thorman and his doctorate in all things building wise. When I really got the DIY bug, Jeff was there to humorously explain my road ahead in practical, intelligent terms. I’m creating a bathroom downstairs right now and this good man is right there with his RUclipss to save me time and frustration. What a library he is a building using some of the Internet’s best videography. These are gems.
Thanks Cory, we are very Glad to be of some help. Cheers!
i do all the same stuff for a living as our good friend here an must say im loving this channel.. have never subscribed to one before but think this ones worth it. An I have learned a bunch of tricks that made my life easier. Thanks a bunch an will be learning alot more from you. In New York here most buildings are 100+ years old.. lol
is it really legal for non electricians in the usa to make this kind of work themself ? dont you need special license. ?? thx from denmark
I learn so much from your videos. Thank you for making them. I doubt I'll be doing my own electric in my bathroom but I'll know enough to make sure whoever does it does it right.
That is the other side of why we do what we do. Consumer protection. Cheers!
Hello. I've been an electrician for 20 years. This guy really does have a ton of knowledge. I like his better safe than sorry mentality known to the rest of the world as common sense.
Granted, the codes are different in the great space of Canada, but all in all dude really knows his stuff.
Keep up the awesome work !!
BTW your 18 tips for drywalling video is AMAZING!!!!!!
Your Awesome Jeff. Very easy to understand. You know enough to not try to speak to everyone like they are a general contractor. Best RUclips channel
Cheers Chris
Cheers Chris, just tryion gto give out some information that can be helpful to the Diy world.
Love this. I started my bathroom remodel myself , heated floor, drop in place of stock tub with a jacuzzi (that will need electric ) and bigger shower . This is perfect. Cheers
Cheers Chris! Glad to be of some help!
Great video....I've been an electrician for 13 years and I have confidence in your install! My only suggestion is to wire up your junction boxes before the drywall goes on. Make all your joints, install all your little tails and marettes, then carefully coil the wiring to be connected to the device just behind where the device is to go. This is essential when you have many cables coming into a box, and have too many tasks on the go to try remember what is what. Also, this method will allow anyone to install devices without having completed the rough in themselves. Not necessary when you are doing a small job by yourself but still a good habit. This will eliminate most mistakes that could be made, speed up your install and help to keep the painted drywall clean since you have much less work to do to install the devices. I don't know how many times I've gotten the call to come wire someones house, only to get there to find rats nests of wiring coming out of multibanks of switches, and all the drywall installed. Then they give me the "You're the electrician" line. When a homeowner says: "I'll wire it, you just hook it up for me", never take the job.Thanks for the great vid....I can tell by the way you work that this is not your first barbeque.....but I won't tell ESA that lol.
419gates I am an electrician as well and I am not confident in this guys install
I just spent more time reading the comments than this video took... ugh !
He said at the beginning that code is different everywhere ,he pulled a permit and it 'll be inspected by the ( ESA )
the Electrical Safety Authority. Nice work Jeff .
Its called the national electrical code its supposed to be the same everywhere inside the US
@@rnyestrada5922 He's in Canada.
@@rnyestrada5922 DOH!
I like the way that you strip the wires before placing them in the box and the way you twist the wires together.
I’m in the Detroit area and while finishing my basement I’ve watched a few videos and enjoyed the information you’ve given. When I ran my wire I put my roll of wire by the breaker panel and ran it to my farthest outlet or switch then connected everything. It helped not having a ton of extra wire to clean up. Plus if I needed more I just pulled some more down the line.
I live in Medicine Hat Alberta. The codes are very similar to Ontario if not the same, if I remember 30 yrs ago stuff and things. I got lost on a few things you were doing, so that means I have to watch again to point them out. No it wasn't the floor heating. That was something I never worked with. So Thanks for that info!
Great video once again.
Cheers!
You also want to remember that NEC states that you have to have a minimum of 6 inches of workable conductor from the face of the box and not the back. The best way to determine this is to use the length of your wire cutters to determine the length of the wire. I also like the idea of leaving a service loop in the wall for future electrical replacements.
Just for clarity's sake. 120v × 0.5A = 60W. A quarter of a 60W light bulb is 15 Watts. Presume it was just a mistaken slip.
Thanks for all this Jeff. I truly appreciate it, and I know all those watching do as well.
Edit: you said it was low voltage so this math may be missing necessary information.
This video is designed to take the mystique out if doing your own electrical. always consult the code for electrical in your area before beginning any work to ensure you are code compliant., Cheers!
That's a poor excuse to put up a video giving advice that's LESS than mediocre.
@@Skylane2005 Care to explain the issues you're seeing. I've found in my career the guys that don't know much are the one's who say "I can't believe you did it that way." While the guys who know what they're doing will say "I've found this method works best and here's why." Be a teacher instead of an excuse maker, it'll change your life.
I appreciate the video. These "by the book" guys will always get ya on the details, even if you left 30 disclaimers throughout the video.
If I’m doing it myself on my own house using RUclips as a guide... even with you as a Sensei? Good enough for me;
prob not code compliant.
People are usually shocked when they find out I’m not a good electrician.
Haven't seen this kind of box. I love the ground wire connections at the back of the box. Here they all have to be tied together with a wire nut. This is way better.
Jeff, your content is so well done, and I love how you have a solution for everything a DIYer may come across. I'm renovating my first home (built in the 1950's) to save some money and I've been binge watching all of your videos. They're incredibly invaluable. Thank you for sharing what you do.
I don't have any plans on renovating my bathroom but this guy took a boring subject and made it so damn interesting. He is a Godsend. It's impressive how much you can learn from him in under an hour.
I love his consideration for future remodel. Consideration for others is awesome. Think big!
Thank u so much for talking about how far apart the lights have to be for the dark spots. I found out light will sometimes affect my vertigo we just ran new lights in our bathroom and couldn't figure out what was going on every time I would walk in it had never been an issue in the past. This explains everything thank you, it might be a pain to go back up there to add a couple more lights but to save me a headace down the road itll be easy
I believe all plugs are ran on 12- 2 the yellow sleeve and for lighting 14 you know the white sleeved ones. If you create too much heat using incorrect wiring you'll burn the house down so 12-2 for plugs and 14 for wiring you can look at gauge chart it will tell you what plugs and what wiring to use and you won't be spending that much more for the correct wiring.
Utah its required for 12gage 20Amp circuit dedicated plug GFCI. Ive run a 12-3 up to the exhaust fan in case I want to change out the fan to a fan and light combo. Used some scrap 2x10 sideways between studs with pocket screws around towel bar height to give me more options and something solid to screw into.
sounds like a good plan. Cheers!
Great vid, two things, I noticed when you pulled your wire into the metal wall box through the knocked out tabs you did not put in any twin screw clamps? Is it not required to have that or some kind of grommet to protect against chafing? Second, dude throw on some safety glasses. Watching you drill overhead like that gave me the heebie-jeebies. Many moons ago got a piece of metal in my eye by being careless almost lost sight. Cheers!
I am literally in the middle of a complete bathroom remodel of a century farm house. Love this channel and I use it for all my remodeling now and forever!
Cheers Philip. Looking forward to hearing from you about your specific challenges.
Main problems I've had are weird double layer drywall 18"x4' nailed every 3 inches. Demo was horrible. Plus the old corner bead they used in the day was a wire netting, super annoying!
At 1:26 - Actually, the Code requires a separate 20A circuit (with 12-2 wire) for the receptacle outlets. And they must be GFI-protected. Also, 14-3 is used for the exhaust fan if it contains a built-in light. Black powers the fan motor, red powers the light.
you should have listened further, indeed 210-11(c)(3) applies, but there is the exception "Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom,
outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2)." So as long as the 20 amp breaker that supplies the GFCI doesn't supply any other bathrooms he is good to go using it for other items in the bathroom.
Jeff not sure why you are being attacked, everything you said is accurate and stated politely
@@fd3871ou are absolutely correct FD. I have an extra 20 amp GFCI protected circuit for the floor heat in my master bathroom, but that is just me. Everything I do in my own house is better than code. I am not trying to make a living when I am working on my own house. Russ-Journeyman Electrician.
@@fd3871 Yes, that's true. But my point was that the entire bathroom CANNOT be wired with just 14-2 wire, as the guy was aiming to do. Only the lights can, as well as a basic exhaust fan without a light.
@@fd3871 It seems however that he is using 2 14-2 circuits in the bathroom, one for lighting and 1 for the gfci and floor heat. The exception only applies if he is running 1 20 amp circuit to the bathroom and all lighting in addition to the gfci are all on a 20 amp homerun for only the bathroom. With him running a 14-2 home run then it is required to run a 20 amp circuit for the gfci on the vanity and no other outlets on that circuit. In most cases that I have seen the floor heating manufacture requires a second circuit to feed just the floor heat and be gfci protected. I also thought any lighting inside of a bathtub had to be gfci protected as well.
Im an electrician in Quebec. I wire most baths 1 circuit is plenty for lights, fan, and a blowdryer. 1st to gfi, so loads lighting and fan from it are all protected by gfi. Heating is another circuit always 240v either floor or baseboard heat to thermostat.
Love this channel only 16 but still love to learn .
Great time to learn. Cheers!
Keep it up! Not everyone needs a college degree for a desk job. The trades pay great! We have a massive shortage of helpers/journey men etc in the electric field.
I was about to order my electrical in my cabin but these videos are making me want to do it myself, the 10yr old boy in me is getting excited.
I've been in construction for a few years now. Next to This Old house, you're my favorite channel for construction tips.
Thanks, happy to help!
Finally coming back to this after initially watching because I'm doing my first switch and wiring in my wife's new sewing room! Taking all the notes in my DIY notebook hehehe
Good video Jeff. I am under the assumption that stapling the wire to the bottom of the joists is a no-go, even with strapping before drywall. If the drywall is up, it would be no problem to fish through that area. Maybe depends on what the inspector sees in his 5min rough inspection, and if you have the ceiling boarded up by then :)
no problem running wire to the joist. That is done all the time. The strapping does not even need to be installed at inspection.Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I saw you run the wire to the bottom of the joists and wondered if you would pass inspection. Then I saw something about your strapping.... Will you pass inspection that way? Or will the wire clear your strapping for the drywall?
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Hi Jeff. I love all your videos! I've been reamed out by a master electrician for attaching wire beneath a joist because the drywall supposedly pinches it and risks it being screwed into on drywall attachment. I understand this latter argument. Why not make holes in the joists like we do in studs?
Great video as always! I started looking into investing in real estate which led me to wanting videos to know how to know how to properly assess the condition of a house and what repairs are needed. I've started practicing myself and your videos helped me feel comfortable in replacing my own sink and PVC piping that was leaking in my bathroom and it was a great success! Much of what you are saying here is a little over my head, but I don't necessarily see a problem with that. Take in what I know and Google what I don't. Thank you for your wealth of information!
Cheers Dan!
Love your videos. I watch them everyday, and sometimes I even watch the same video over and over again. Keep the uploads coming!!!
Will do, Cheers Jeffrey!
Great Video,
Make sure you have 2" clearance from wire run and drywall, (ceiling on the wire between the straps).
Also if your box is more than 4", then you need support.
And last thing, NEW CODE , sure you run the heated floors wire and sensor wire though core line ( flexible plastic pipe)
So fun to watch. Wish I could spend a day with you. That knowledge is priceless.
One of these days we plan to do a workshop tour! Cheers!
Thanks for the vid. I am over in Thailand just getting to the electrical stage of my house. They do things a little different over here and no codes to follow. I want to be as lose as I can to code. I have alot of aluminium aerated block walls and full on steel stud walls that they are not use to. This was a big help. Thanks.
Excellent point about blocking out for wall switch beside the door.
I do it regardless of size trim.
I had an "electrician" tell me, You can't put that there, I've got to put my switch box there"....
Ok....it's the same kind of lumber as the king stud, be my guest.😉😁
If he would have used a 4-inch square box with brackets he could have just ran what would be a fire block and put the Box anywhere he wanted to with a two gang mud ring . Also 54 inches is too high + 42" or 46" to the top is the ADA Compliant height, I never put my boxes on the nearest stud that is cheesy , this guy makes excuses for everything, I don't make excuses my shit works and I've never failed inspection
As a home owner wanting to make changes and automate things I recommend always using deep electrical boxes and the ones I have are annoyingly small
Haha.. Awesome. The whole time he was sealing up the box, I was wondering what his plan was for the wiring..? Lol
But hey, as a fellow Canadian in Alberta, I do appreciate the videos and information about code and whatnot. Good videos!
Cheers!
Wow! The vital information density is simply blowing our brains! :) I`m doing my DIY renovation of just purchased property. I`m an engeneer, I know how to do this in theory, but I have to learn a lot about standards and requirements to not being in a trouble with posssible inspections in future. How I can find any regulations with what we have seen - a distance from the water, between clamps, etc etc etc... I want my job wouldn`t look suspicious. Earlier I wanted to place a semi-hidden power point next to the toilet pan to feed a heated "smart seat", and now I have a doubt whether it`s OK according the rules... But it would be ugly to leave a long extension cord from the toilet seat to the nearest "established" power point... I`m stuck :) Secondly I wanted install a trendy additional waterfall shower head (ceiling mounted) and after your video I have to clearly understand how much distance I have to keep from this water source to the closest downlight... Or, might be not alowed to use ceiling lights at alll due to this shower head location... And the last one I have to replace a standard bath tub with a corner SPA which has all the SPA pump, heater and electronic controller mounted together ad it must be located in a void between the SPA and its outside trim. It requires 25 amps power, so needs an individual power line. A master switch must be instaled in this bathroom. And it`s still a wet area... Where I can locate this switch ... There are lots of questions. I hope you can suggest me how I can find an appropriate information about that :) Thank you. That`s not USA, Australia
You got my Sub on "...and then you're gonna realize...I forgot to run the wire...". Great job, and notwithstanding this omission you clearly know a shit ton about doing this work. Thanks!
I start my basement renovation. I do not know plug and switch height in Toronto. I search online, there are many results. Thanks a lot!
Love your videos im binge watching them. Id love to see a video about the top 10 things a electrical inspector looks for when looking at a residential rough in inspection.
You seem to know what codes there are and are very educated.
I have 4 short extension cords to use when we travel. Two are commercial 2 wire with ground ones that light if they have power. I made two very short cords [about three inches]. One is 2 wire with ground and the other is polarized 2 wire. Most of my stuff is universal voltage input [100 -240 volts; 50/60 cycle] but has USA plugs. I travel with fewer adapters to plug into the wall wherever I happen to be. I buy my plug to socket adapters at Walmart. I used them and Walmart multiplug bars to create photo light panels.
This guy actually is teaching me without having to make it a rocket scientist job
This is great information for new construction or a complete restoration. My house was built in 1957. No grounding wires just two conductors inside a cloth sheathing. I would love to rewire my entire house and make it safer. To have an electrician do it would cost 11,000 dollars or more. I don't see any way to put a staple in every 5 feet in a finished wall or even one foot from the box. I have a crawl space and an attic. I don't mind getting dirty and running cable. I guess the government would rather you have old, dangerous wiring in a house, than run new cable yourself. Codes are not always a good thing. I will probably wait until I can afford to have it done by a licensed electrician, if the house doesn't burn down first.
Those are some goofy staples, never seen them here in the US like that. At $20.00-$40.00 a pop for good lineman's I prefer to use a harbor freight $5.00 hammer than my lineman's..just saying.. :-) I would be happy to send you a box of cheep hammers if you need them...hehe.. We generally run some type of conduit down to the floor to make it easier to fish the load wire from the floor heat into the box with the thermostat in it. I like your patience in dealing with us electricians and non electrician comments. Looking forward to your next video.
Conduit is a good idea as well.
Those staples are used in Canada, and they are excellent. They have "stops" on them so you can gauge how deep to pound them in. They're also metal so they won't break like the plastic ones in cold climates. I wish Thomas & Betts distributed them here in the USA, but they're only CSA approved, not UL approved.
I have a set of line man pliers, and the top and bottom of the jaws are actually knurled , sort of like a framing hammer that's knurled, so the pliers don't slip when you are hitting the nail of the staple
prob dont have to say here in Ireland at this stage,but here we use 2.5mm twin and earth - brown live,blue neg,yellow green earth,for sockets,fans,etc
1.5mm for lighting circuits only.
6.00mm for power to the oven and hob.
here we are 220-240v and although diy does happen,its not legal,everything has to be certified by a registered electrican for insurance etc.
also heres an extract from our regs
Special precautions are necessary in the bathroom because the wet surroundings pose a greater risk of electric shock than anywhere else in the house. For this reason, no sockets other than specially designed shaver outlets are allowed in bathrooms.
Portable appliances such as hairdryers, radios or heaters must not be used in the bathroom, even if plugged in outside the bathroom.
Electric showers and heaters must be installed by a registered electrical contractor
loving the vids,keep up the great work.
Lenny Rossa in sweden the color code is the same, but 1.5mm2 is used for light ans outlets, up to 13A. Over that (oven/stove) is 2.5mm2.
If this dude was in the United States, I would hire him just because he seems so likable..
I too am going through the gambit of his videos often just because I love him. He makes me feel like I can do anything.
1.9k thumbs up, 39 thumbs down as of May 25, 2019. Gotta be the highest % likes on RUclips. You are a boss Jeff. Thanks for your straightforward, effective teaching methods.
That's 2% dislike... ive seen much better... that said, sometimes I really wish I could know the thoughts of the people who dislike some videos.
Thank you sir. I like your videos and the way you explain. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Mike, happy to help! Cheers!
I'm in NZ and I enjoyed learning your way of setting your wire up as it was well thought out.
Man, looking at all these videos, being the perfectionist I am I wish I had the time and money to just build my house from scratch.
😉 us shorter people are always thinking of ways to accommodate ourselves to get the job done. Thanks for mentioning that.
Dude, you are a genius!! I watched one of your videos last night and subscribed! This is the second one and I love it. You're quick, but thorough and explain everything. You keep a good pace in your videos and explain everything that laymen homeowners like me need to know, even if they've got previous experience but might be missing some details.
If I had my bills paid for the next 6 months.....I could see working for you for free just to gain more hands-on experience and start rehabbing my own homes. Thanks for sharing your talents and insights with the world wide web.
I am thankful for your help. You have helped PLENTY!
I am now regretting NOT putting in a heated floor under the tiles. The wife didn't want to have the expense and now we have a little heater that sits on the floor.... Slightly tacky.....but oh well. Not gonna rip the tiles up now!
Thanks again!
A beautifully made and edited video. Well done.
If I had the option, I would NEVER put all the lights on one switch!!! MANY times you’re only using one part of the room at a time - and when you need the potty in the middle of the night, being blinded is not a positive experience! The lights over the shower and/or over the toilet I always put on their own switch - and I’ve never regretted it!!!
Great explanations and tips! Also make sure you have enough plugs for multiple device use ... and maybe a USB switch too, since people are always trying to charge things everywhere- including the bathroom ;-)
Thank you. I learned a lot with this video.
Hey man... Makes more sense: the panel is in the basement, fixtures are on the ceiling. Put your wires in the switch box the other way around. Unwritten rule from licensed guy and less wire used, less guessing for troubleshooting later. The point of screws is to be able to remove the box later when needed. Put the mounting screws in on an angle as if the drywall is there. That's why electricians use 6" impact bits. A properly cut in switch box would have neutrals tied together and tails off the hot so any apprentice can throw switches in later. Just a few tips.
remember, when doing the ground wire, hook it up clockwise so that it moves with the driver
oooh, so thats why the switch is outside the bathroom in the hall, "36 rule"! i think down here in the US its so that you can turn the lights off on who ever is in the bathroom once theyve settled in. there goes that idea about garbage disposal and switch in shower install.
Great video! Just wanted to learn a little about running wire and learned a whole lot. I'm usually got a huge fan of long videos, but I found all parts to be pretty quick to the chase and relevant. Looking forward to watching more by you!
I like those Gang boxes. Those big ground screws in the back are HANDY!!
Really like your wiring rough in. Also, I think the Tuck Tape is awesome stuff. Nice job.
Thanks, Cheers!
LOVE your habit of light switch first - then fan. I also do this with ceiling fans!
Think; do you ever reach further in to find the light? Closest is just natural.
Must be a Canadian thing. Required to run 12 gauge here, and be within 36 inches of sink for outlet.
Even if it is GFCI!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Pretty everything has to be ground fault or arc fault now. I just run the breakers that do both. The 20A breaker is because many ladies have lots of electric hair appliances.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Yeah, you want a larger wire for more load for things like hair dryers & according to the IRC (International Residential Code) you need to have a GFI outlet within 36 inches of the lavatory. It's so people can plug in their shavers, electric toothbrushes, hair dryers, & whatever other appliances people use.
Here in USA 12g is for Outlets, 14g for Lighting.
I am learning electricity .. and i like your channel ... thank you
"...don't know too many cases where you would use 14/3 in a bathroom..." What about running the fan exhaust and light on separate switches. Is that not common?
He’s obviously never wired a jack and Jill bathroom before where it’s a shared bath between two bedroom doors. Admittedly, he isn’t an electrician but his work in this video is laughable. Canada’s code is supposed to be better than the US, but this workmanship wouldn’t get you a job anywhere in the states.
Really appreciate the tricks and tips, for roughing in. I really saw myself, when you had the moment, "And .... I forgot to run the wire".
44:07 Towel warmer not tile warmer. Love your video's btw. Keep them coming!
Tee hee hee OOPS!
I noticed that, too!
WE ALL ARE HUMAN!!!🤭🤫🤔
I HEARD HIM SAY, "TOWEL WARMER🤥"
This video will help with an upcoming home renovation im doing
You should always pull your home run in 12/2 along with receptacles . 14 gauge wire should only be used for lighting .
A nine month necro, but the only thing I use 14 gauge wire for are surround sound speakers.
matthew bowman eh 14 wire should really only be used in small applications. If you plan on having multiple fixtures and or plugs on the same circuit just spend the lil extra and run 12 with 20 amps instead of 15
Great video, seems really straight forward once you know what you're doing and have successfully run electrical a number of times.
Your channel was recommended by a friend, great content!
in most places code requires a 20 amp gfci receptacle in the bathroom. 20 amps requires 12/2 wire. Some hair dryers can trip a 15 amp breaker, add in a curling iron and it will trip for sure.
Yah code the same where I live. 20 amp in box 12/2 with gfci
20 in Georgia.
Don't forget you need a nail plate to protect your wire running through a stud from future screws. Cheers! 🍻
Calm down Karen
You only need a plate if the hole is not drilled in the Center of the stud. If it’s at least 32mm from the edge of the stud, you are good.
Here in Taxachusetts you need a 20 amp cir for the outlet which would be a number 12 wire then for the lighting would be a separate circuit which would be a 14 -2 15 amp circuit, I like to run a three wire from the switch to the fan light combination because when my daughter is in there putting on make up she don’t wanna listen to the fan so they’re on separate switches
"... and then you realize, you forgot to run the wire ... lovely" -- even the dogs in the house put their paws to their foreheads ... classic Jeff
it happens!
I freaking love this dude. Single-handedly *almost* makes me want to be Canadian
Almost...
"You can't throw a box in the middle of plastic, can you?" -- classic Jeff
you can if you add some horizontal wood. Cheers!