Scan my Tesla EV BATTERY health TEST on 93,000 mile Tesla Model 3?
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- Опубликовано: 13 фев 2024
- We complete a battery degradation test on my 93000 miles Tesla Model 3 Long Range using the scan my Tesla app.
At the start of 2021 I created Chargeheads to ELECTRIFY petrolheads essentially get more car enthusiasts into electric cars. An Electric Petrolhead if you like....A CHARGEHEAD!!!!
To start I decided to do an EV conversion and went on an amazing journey visiting many of the big companies in this field.
I selected the not so well known TVR Tasmin 350i, AKA the Wedge (#tvrwedgee ) to electrify after careful consideration of other cars. As I already had a TVR Griffith which I enjoyed driving and with my passion for raw, powerful, tail happy cars with no driver aids TVR was the obvious choice when selecting a car to electrify.
The 2nd build is the #SpecialTrikee project a 1970's BSA Aerial 3 Tricycle Scooter that me and my mate Vinny have turned into a e-Trike. I use this for local trips and it's a load of fun. Mrs Chargehead calls it my special scooter.....that originally had a 50cc two stroke motor and has a 250 watt motor in it, of course.
The Latest project is Rustee #RusteeTesla the Tesla build to make a Model 3 Long Range....well.....better! Better in looks, handling and performance while keeping her a monster mile daily and the efficiency intact. Focusing again on modifying with used parts to keep it green, where possible.
I hope to not only entertain with ChargeheadsUK Channel and the #TVRWedgee, #SpecialTrikee and #RusteeTesla builds, but also to inspire watchers to create their own greener transport.
With the help of leaders in their field like Ralph Hosier (Engineer, designer, builder of special vehicles, teacher, writer, TV presenter and trouble maker.
Ralph teaches Electric and Hybrid Vehicle Training (IMI Techsafe), builds some amazing one off projects and most of all is a top bloke!
He's the engineer behind #TVRWedgee the Electric TVR.
So let the fun begin......safely in a controlled environment using the right EV safety equipment! ;0)
Did I mention myself and Ralph have also done an EV Conversion safety video as well
#TVRWedgee #ChargeheadsUK #Specialtrikee #RusteeTesla 
Авто/Мото
![Tesla Taxi FULL HEALTH CHECK: Is The Battery RUINED After 430,000 Miles? [Episode 4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/doAcNVuTnXU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Tesla Taxi FULL HEALTH CHECK: Is The Battery RUINED After 430,000 Miles? [Episode 4]](/img/tr.png)
Thing is 5-7% happened in the first three years or so. It will now loose maybe 1-2% over the next 50k miles. I bet it’s more like 91% left as it’s a reading on a cold day.
I agree with you, plan to do the Tesla service test when its a bit warmer, I'm at 96k now 🙈
What was that cable called? The one you use to use the OBD scanner on the model 3?
That was really interesting. Didn't know about the 1500 cycles. Didn't know about the deg over 200k miles....
We're all on this learning curve, still so much to find out.
Supercharging causes faster and higher degradation. This will effect business users mostly.
Looks that way, did a 265 miles round trip the other day motorways to Bristol started with 95% ended with 2% so im not complaining 😉
Most data actually shows that fast charging on teslas does NOT degrade the battery, mostly thanks to the BMS that heats or cools the battery in those cases. The main degradation culprits are to maintain a low or high SoC for too long
@@antoineparmentier3319 Yes that seems to be the current school of thought
4:52 Degradation (capacity loss) is 15%. Initial capacity ("full pack when new") = 77,8 kWh, current max capacity ("nominal full pack") = 66,4 kWh.
It is based on total KWh or usuable though?
Great video very interesting who knew a model 3 didn't have a STD obd port. Im guessing you can do this test on all EV's? Air cooled leaf's too?
Yes there is a guy in Scandi that tests on EVs in this way
Id suggest checking out the Bjorn Nyland channel.
He's owned, driven and extensively tested Tesla (plus other) vehicles for over 10 years and routinely uses Scan my Tesla.
A few searches should gain you useful information.
.
You may find a run to indicated zero then a full charge might rebalance to some extent(?)
Ahhh shiiit, he's great, i do follow him 👍
Indeed, fantastic channel, he shows the real motorway range of about 100 miles and shows how after 7-8 years it’s not the degradation that kills you but the cells can no longer provide the voltage so the car range can suddenly jump from 150 miles indicated range down to 0 in a mile, or the car shuts off at speed, scary. A bit like your phone turning off mid call after a few years when the indicated battery is still 70% and the health is at 85%. It just goes to show scanning only gives you so much information about the remaining life of the battery. He also goes in depth on LFP batteries and how their indicated range is even less reliable (and why Tesla require full discharge and charge cycles on these weekly).
The conclusion is at around 8 years average is when you need to start to really worry about imminent and immediate failure, it’s not gradual.
Imagine in a long traffic jam on a motorway at night then suddenly you have nothing left, what do you do? Panic and panic!
@@David-fj5lz You can simulate this easily to see if you can live with that. Your typical EV will get maybe 90 miles on the motorway from a 10-80% charge, that's roughly the range you have left when your low fuel light comes on in a diesel/petrol car. So try to drive your car consistently and don't top it above the "low fuel" marker. If that does not give you anxiety, an EV might just be for you :)
So you can have them in 2nd hand car lots with the batteries degrading alm the time, do these dealers have to keep re-charging them, imagine the cost of judt ONE on a lot for 2 months?
How
Oh, that’s interesting to see! I like that you can see each battery modules degradation. Just wondering what counts as a discharge cycle? ie if you charge from 60 - 80% every day is that 1 One cycle I wonder? Thanks Tim 👍
According to a couple of people temperature does play a part, i think i need to do the Tesla battery deg test to in service mode. Fancy joining me?
I believe it's full cycles, 60-80% would be 20% of a cycle. However, and someone please confirm, I believe the battery lasts for more cycles using partial cycles, say 20-80%, compared to full cycles of 0-100%.
@@mad4461 everything you've said is what I've come to believe as well. I just need to get my head around why! If energy is going into the cells then why does not touching the first 20 or last 20 percent make a difference?! Does energy not "move" the first 20 percent constantly anyway and if it does then why can't we use it? I can see the last 20 percent bit as that causes the battery to get hotter due to being charged longer and taking more energy to force the electricity in. (thinking sleeping bag into the cover! 😅) but the first 20 percent? Why?
@@nickabbott4411 i did a battery episode on my Live, however this didnt come up. Sounds like I need Euan McTurk on again and you guys need to join in 💯
@@nickabbott4411batteries don't like being fully charged or fully depleted. The low state causes some harm to the battery and it will lose some capacity, over time leading to faster failure. Fully charging is done at lower and lower speed towards the end, if this method is not used, it will degrade the battery. If your car charges at high speed even at the end, it will degrade. Saw similar behavior with lead acid battery, if you discharge to low voltage, it will kill the battery.
Would it be possible to swap out the few lower voltage cells? If they drag down the total it seems like it would pay if that's possible. I'm considering getting a used 2022 Long Range Model 3.
Not a simple job - you'd only do that if you had a bad module - not a slightly weaker one. You have to disconnect and drop the battery, unseal it (that's messy amd difficult as it's glued together), locate the bad module and replace it with an expensive one (that still might not be well matched), reseal etc. There was only a 14mV cell deviation - that's quite well balanced for an over 4 year old battery.
@@mondotv4216 well balanced you think, thats interesting. Is there a resource out there with more info? Planning to do another test soon as hitting 100k within a couple of months
It will be interesting to see what LFP degradation looks like at 100k miles? If the trends continue those packs could maintain their range and therefore price far better than their NMC counter parts.
Agreed, LFP should be much better. Itll be interesting to see what chemistry they go with next on the long range 🤔
Have you done a depreciation test on it?.....
Yes, planning to do the Tesla service style one next
I thought you meant degredation test, but you're actually trying...to be funny..well done barrie
Depreciation is a valid concern though, worth baring in mind when looking at total cost of ownership over 5 years say.
I’m a bit confused by the batterry charging figures on the app (time stamp 3.57)If I’m reading this correctly
You gave 13, 311 AC and 18,687 dc rapid which makes a total of 31,998. The total charge reading is 27,021. Which is a 15% loss due to charging.
If you count the regen the total charged is 35,741 and the stored amount is 27,021 or 23% of the energy lost.
If you have the car switched on and the heater or AC running, some of the power being drawn will go on that, ditto pre heating the car in the morning whilst plugged in to a 7KW charger.
Exactly how often the previous owner did this is impossible to know, but it probably accounts for a fair chunk of the difference; last time I did it on my tiny 26.1KWh battery, it recorded a 111% over-charge, the previous time, a 114% overcharge.
@@ianemery2925 it’s a lot of energy that is not being stored though. 24% lost in 94,000 miles. It makes this vehicle 24% less efficient and when I test drove a BEV the figures are tight a 15% increase in energy not stored would bring 3.8 kWh per mile down to 3.3kWh /m with this hidden cost.
Have a look the figures are at 3minutes 48
Total charge AC 13331, Dc 18684, 😢 8720 = 40718 total stored 27021 stored 24% energy loss.
@@tobycolin6271 I "waste" a lot of battery power, as I sit outside my daughters school for an hour, listening to music and perhaps running the heated seat; over a week, this sucks a lot of power. So it is not possible to say what is loss and what has been used for other operations that the previous owner might have been using. This reduces my 90+ mile Summer "range" to around 60 miles; except, if I do a long run in the winter, I am still getting 90ish miles.
(I am disabled, the Primary school has very limited road parking, so I have to get there very early, so I can park close enough to the school to cope with walking to the gate. Some days, even the width of the road is a challenge, and there have been days when I have phoned the school and asked them to bring the children out to me).
Would you count running an ICE engine, to run the heater, to de-ice the car every morning in winter as part of the MPG ?? Or the time it takes the engine to get to full operating temperature and so the best efficiency??
Remember, you are using the cheapest electricity to do the same in an EV, but ICE fuel costs the same day or night (and an ICE car takes much longer to get the heater going efficiently).
The Bluetooth range on that ODBII adapter isn't very impressive 🤓
Informative video, thank you!
Fyi, my Model 3 Long range (March 2020, 100.000km/60.000mi) just got a refurbished HV battery. This battery should match my old battery age and degradation level.
Scan my Tesla reports:
- Cell volt max = 3.828
- Cell volt min = 3.818
So Cell imbalance = 10.0 mV (values measured while AC charging at 11.5kW and 9C outside temperature, SoC approx. 50%).
- Nominal Full pack = 68.9 kWh (69.5 kWh when not charging)
- Full pack when new = 77.8 kWh
For a refurbished battery the BMS totals are reset to 0, so no previous Charge totals are visible.
Thanks for sharing, thats interedting that they zero thr charging amounts. What happened to the old battery?
@@chargeheadsuk The BMS_a066 alert occurred (SOC imbalance warning), and after a week "Charging limit reached" (at 37% SoC), so HV battery replacement was required.
@@mavawa how was the setvice at Tesla?
@@chargeheadsuk Tesla service is super efficient in theory (every step is done via Tesla app), but the repair took 5 weeks in total due to technician illness and high workload. Overall it was a rather good experience. Got a loaner with free supercharging meanwhile.
@@mavawa loan car with the supercharging is a 100% bonus, certainly would be with me with the mileage I cover. Thanks for sharing 👍👍
Hi, just some non-expert thoughts. You would expect chemistry performance to change with temperature so I would expect a bit more capacity as the weather warms the battery up. Your test results will be interesting. My understanding is that it is the charge rate and number of charge cycles that has the largest impact on battery degradation. Be gentle and it lasts longer, like most things. A warm battery should be happier than a cold battery. A 'useable' predicted life of 1,500 charge cycles was interesting - depending in battery chemistry and model that could be around 100,000 kWh which could be up to 350,000 to 400,000 miles. Most people in the UK drive less than 10,000 miles per year so with care 35 to 40 years of useable battery. I doubt the rest of the car would last that long! The later LFP battery technology used in the 'base' model is reputed to be more tolerant of full charge cycles as well.
I will continue to do videos as the mileage increases, it will be very interesting to see how the battery behaves over time and in different temperatures. Thanks for your comment.
Not a Tesla owner, and my 2016 Soul EV only has 40K on the clock; obviously you never know how a previous owner treated the car; KWh charged via AC or DC doesnt give the whole picture, if they were constantly topping up to 100% from say 85%, that degrades the battery faster.
Tesla's own data shows that the vast majority of owners are idiots doing stupid things, with an average 63 MILES between charging sessions; and with an average journey length of 12 miles......
What I found was that regular AC charging to 80%, and a monthly to 100% trickle charge to balance the cells (KIA recommend this), actually recovered a little bit of storage capacity from the state it was in when I purchased it, 21 months ago; since then, degradation hasnt increased; SOH is still 96.8% and useable KWh is 26.1, from 27KWh when new.
When I bought it, the numbers were 94.2% SOH, and 25.5KWh of useable battery.
I KNOW the previous owner was a bit of an idiot, because it was fitted with rapidly degrading SNOW tyres, in England, in the middle of summer; I fitted Bridgestone Potenza T005s, and it goes round corners like an old school Mini.
Country roads are great fun.
This is the problem with buying a used EV, you don’t know how it’s been treated. Think it should be a thing when buying an EV that they have a print out of SOC cycles and AC/DC results. So people know what there buying just like you would buy a car with service history dealer stamps. Thing is ICE engines are more predictable and more easily replaced if they blow.
@@jlrguy2702 Probably the best thing about the Nissan Leaf is the battery condition meter right there on the display; as for everyone else, a cheap Tester and a free diagnostics program on their phone is a must; as sellers lie, especially dealers.
I would LOVE to be able to afford a brand new EV and treat it with the respect it needs to maintain a healthy battery, but as I cannot afford even a cheap new ICE car, s/h and the risk of a damaged battery is what I am stuck with.
On the OTHER hand, I hate all the "Driver Aids" new cars get to meet NCAP; around here, on narrow crowded roads, they are down right dangerous - and increasingly difficult to turn off. I had a new Sportage last week, while my Soul's heater was being fixed; the "Lane Assist" turned itself back on a couple of minutes after I switched it off; and started trying to push me into oncoming traffic again.
See, with an ICE car, it doesn't matter if you fill up your car when it's empty of ¾ full. You'll always have the same hp. LOL!
@@hugolafhugolaf Actually, it isnt that simple, you have to let it run really low every time, to stop sediment build up in the bottom, or accept you have to refill when it gets to 1/4, or the fuel filter is likely to clog up, and dirt can score the polished linings of the injectors.
Also, ICE engine are losing HP every second they are running; that 220BHP monster you bought 5 years and 70,000 miles ago, is probably down to 180-200 BHP; if it hasnt had a full service for a while, it might be even lower.
Now a full service and tune up can restore some of that power, but not all of it; that would require an engine strip down and replacing valves, piston rings etc.
See, you arent BS'ing some dumb kid, I have stripped and replaced engines (and gearboxes) in the past - and I used to work for Cosworth Motors, who build the engines for MANY race teams and exotic sport car companies -Ferrari, Maserati, Bugatti, and Rolls-Royce amongst others (as well as classified stuff for nuclear submarines).
Ever hear of the Ford Sierra Cosworth, the Ford Escort Cosworth or the Mercedes E class Cosworth ?? They might be badged Ford or Mercedes, but the oily bits were made at the factory where I worked.
Electric motors arent like that, they DO lose a little power over time, but at tiny fractions of a percent, compared to an ICE engine; stick my 7 y/o EV on a test bed, and it would still show the same KW/BHP output as when new.
There are still electric traction motors running today, that were made 100 years ago, and are still in daily, commercial use in the UK; with no obvious drop in power.
@@ianemery2925 Waw, up your own arse much? how many Cosworth engines do you see with 200k miles on them, probably none, that's because they're shit. Now look at something like a Volvo T5, it will still have the same power it left the factory (more than a Cosworth) with 250k miles on it.
Why are these cells charged in groups with average voltage being the indicator, I understand best practice is individual cell charging and balancing for better cell life and enhanced safety considerations, is it to do with cost or the physical limitations due to all the connections required.
What consideration has been given to disconnection of HV busbars and in how many milliseconds is this set at to protect human life in the situation of direct or indirect contact due to metal body and internal battery short circuit such as penetration from underneath by sharp objects and if so what is the disconnection time of such device please.
I cannot find any information on these two subjects thus far and all the experts I have approached cant answer this I am hoping someone can
With regards to your first comment I guess its cost and to simplify. Not sure about the rest. We're all on a steep learning curve on this. Thats why I like to have the higher mikeage EV so I can discover myself. I hope that by the time I have battery issues there are nore expert to assist in repairing and replacing the battery 😉⚡️💯
@@chargeheadsuk This video ruclips.net/video/hBbhevHZZ5E/видео.html explains better than most, It seems cell groups are monitored only, this is not best practice and whilst the BMS can report on cell group voltages It will not show just how bad the lowest cell has become and this can pose a fire risk which goes undetected because the BMS thinks the group is a little down but in fact 1 cell is in a dangerous condition, This could be corrected with individual cell monitoring and balancing, It does appear that this technology is having corners cut for cost and production or in fact to increase range and performance as to include better cell management would result in less density of cells due to the extra wiring for the individual cell balancing that is what should be happening by either active or passive balancing technology.
Few people are even discussing this subject but I think time will show these shortcuts as safety omissions.
This is precluding me from buying any EV until this issue is acknowledged and addressed The other one being of course no protection for direct or indirect contact by vehicle occupants with EV voltages becoming higher and higher and now around 800V and 8000 cells plus as per Tesla.
As qualified electrician and industrial engineer I fully understand these implications and see bad practice used and 99% of the EV adopters wont understand unfortunately.
To put a little perspective on this quite simply, these vehicles have over 3 times the voltage allowed for your house supply yet are at far greater risk of mechanical damage yet this is allowed, my question is also simple, why? no one has answered that yet.
I hope high voltage batteries with poor use of this cell architecture will be moved away from to more suitable and safe technology.
That might be the time I would consider the more mature and evolved EV! 😊
My favourite EV channel on YT is Mguy Australia
Imagine buying one then the battery fails!How much to scrap one?
My M3LR 2019
74.000km
DC charge 582kwh
AC charge 14596kwh
69.1kwh nominal full pack.
77.8kwh full pack when new.
How can i calculate the % degradation😅
The Tesla test is the easiest
@@chargeheadsuk and how that work?
@@SanderT5R ruclips.net/video/jdIOUpSlxkM/видео.htmlsi=WJK8BczL3tSZ3jzK this video 😉
The battery just FAILS without any warning THEN WHAT DO YOU DO THEN?
Straight to auto trader looking for cars under 500
What's the range in the winter as you're approaching 100k miles? Thanks for the vid
I drive to Bristol and back thr other day 262 mikes started on 95% ended on 2% saying that the temp was circa 12 degrees. I've found about 230 miles in sub zero temps
If it helps my 2018 MS90D is on 88k miles and has just under 9% degradation.
Thanks for sharing 👍
My cousin's husband has a 3.6% loss on an 11 month old 2023 M3 LFP with 40k miles.
How did he test it?
@@chargeheadsuk I have no idea, but 40k miles in a year is insane.
I have a Mitsubishi I-miev. It's 12 years old. One cell, that's right just one cell dropped. It has only ever been recharged from a normal 240 volt household socket (Australia). I was getting over 100 Kms range (16.5kw) battery. I can put a new 30kw battery in it. But the cost is way up there. But the range goes up to 250 Kms easy. Some say 270kms. I know that's more than enough for me here in Sydney. So it's a choice. Sell it with a few new cells and use that money and the money I would pay for the new battery plus another $15,000 and buy a new EV. But here's the thing. Most cars depreciate at $100 per week or more. But the i-miev is already depreciated to its maximum. So the depreciation would be just the battery now. That's about $25 per week over the next 10 years. So is it a good idea for people to buy a used EV cheap and put a new battery in it. Because you are saving at least $75 per week. That's over 300% saving. This never dawns on anyone on the internet making RUclips vids etc. Nobody at all. Anywhere. But I have. Why is it just me that thinks of this. Or am I wrong somewhere. Plus it will save a lot of EVs ending up on the scrap heap. And it's good for the environment. Not that many people care about the environment it seem these days. Particularly here in Australia. What do you think?
At the start of my electric journey I often looked at the Nissan Leaf and costs of battery swap upgrades increasing the battery and at some points it look good, however with the cost of used EV's plummeting it doesnt make financial sense here. Now the battery prices are coming down its the labour cost that puts most off, we need more companies doing the battery swaps and that would make it competitive price wise. More training is needed on this kind of tech I'm sure it will naturally happen when people see theres money to be made. Bearing in mind batteries can be recycled to into new batteries.
so my toyota prius 2007 with 95k miles on original battery and engine has an estimated life expectancy of 95% that means an estimated 5% degradation over 17 years and 95k miles
the car still does around 65mpg combined driving
do i need a new car? no i don't
do i need an electric car? no i don't
no new or other car will make financial sense for me
Ps toyota nimh batteries can be reconditioned even at home
If you only do low miles its a shame no one, that i know of, has swapped out the ICE on a prius and added another battery and turned it full electric. I'm all for repurposing, hence my electric conversion project using used batteries and motor
My 2006 Prius battery died at about 98k, £1400 to replace, but the car's now on 148k and going on strong. From what I understand 100k miles is about average for the battery life on these, although obviously some go on much longer, and some give up the ghost rather earlier. I still reckon it paid for itself in about 3 yrs of use, in comparison with a similar sized petrol car. Good luck with yours hopefully going on for many years / miles yet, but I'll still be going full EV later this year - albeit a 2nd hand jobbie, let someone else swallow that big initial depreciation hit!
I have noticed though that if you look up battery failures, it is not normally that the degradation falls and falls over years and then one day becomes unviable. Cars seem to jump from totally healthy batteries with very low degradation to suddenly won't charge. I have actually started to think that these low degradation scenarios are giving a false sense of security.
That's because you only see the batteries that have failed - which is very few. Quite a lot of those fail due to water ingess and corrosion on the BMS boards.
@@mondotv4216I agree, I am coming at this from an EV fan point of view. But there seems to be no official data that I could find at all that shows, say: how many batteries fail below 120k miles? You know is it 0.01% or 1%?
@@jamie-ck6js Mine failed suddenly due to unknown cause, and was replaced within warranty by a refurbished one having similar age/kms. Tesla won't give specific defect rate figures.
@@mavawa Yes, on youtube where real life owners share their experiences I have not seen a single case were over months/years degradation is building up and then one day you decide the range is not enough and you swap the battery out. The reports all seem to be sudden failures.
@@jamie-ck6js I can confirm your observation. Not degradation (or "degragation" as is consistently said in the video ;-) is the issue - although it affects real range somewhat - but a chance on sudden total failure which is costly when out out warranty. It would help if an extended warranty or insurance policy for that type of failure was offered.
Which dealers can afford to re-sell an EV now,how can a customer buy one if it is a potential total loss
😊
The future is some body else’s arse 👌
First years are like this and then it will settle and decrease with slower rate
Lets hope so, i intend to maximise this battery 💪⚡️🔋
The biggest on battery degradation isn’t the supercharging, as the bms is very good at managing temperatures, the biggest cause is the gap between charge states, i only usually charge mine to 70% unless i am going far, and then charge it back up when it gets to 40%, but if i am going far I’ll use the whole pack of i need to, but for me that’s not often. Very good video out there on this ruclips.net/video/i31x5JW361k/видео.htmlsi=TebgpbN97gPmi89_
Thanks for sharing, i often get to 5% range after a run TBH
Supercharing was an issue here on this ruclips.net/video/4dartx7EoaQ/видео.html. Also the battery fell off fast. I dont think the health tests shows the whole story. Lithium batteries are pretty complicated.
Is it Rusty because it is rusting?
Yes and no, it was from a video we did when fitting lowering springs, Ralph who is converting the TVR to electric for me was taking the P155. Its a good video IMO worth a watch
My ICE car with 200,000 miles still has 100% capacity in the gas tank.
But if still on the original engine will have far less power than when new and be a lot less efficient with the fuel in that tank
My 28 year old Volvo still has the same range as it had when new.
@@twig3288 not true unless you fitted a new engine last week
@@alanrickett2537 Read ----100% capacity IN THE GAS TANK
@@markhenderson5075 and the EV has 100% capacity in the charger both statements are pointless. As miles you can travel for the money paid that has real world impact , the ice pays for the whole tank but gets less miles the EV pays for what it can use and gets the same miles per kWh it did new.
Can someone please explain this to Harrys Garage. Quite a lot of misinformation he spouts about evs
It doesnt help when he has a Jaguar iPace as a comparison to an ICE car. He'll learn like the rest, EV is inevitable and buy a decent one, aka a Tesla 🤷♂️
See YT video:
*The true cost of mining electric car battery metals*
Looking at these perimeters using Scan My Tesla is not representing the battery health or degradation. Tesla has a proper Battery Health check which can be accessed via the service mode and you will get a score out of 100. What you are talking about is incorrect.
Planning to do the Tesla battery check next
This car is now potentially worthless, how can you inspect EVERY cells covering,one crack is it’s end!
Had a customer come in last year raving about a model S 8 year old with free charging anywhere in the world, he came in the other day and said the car is scrap with 106k on the clock the battery is toast and tesla want 11.5k to put a new battery in, he had a tesla customer service guy do a check on it before he brought it and said would easy do 200k miles, hes done 25k and said the worst decision he ever made paying 34k for an 8 to 9 year old car that's scrap because even tesla wont take it in px. So if it depends on how people have either ac or dc charged will make a huge difference surly on sale price, with my deasil car it doesn't mater what or where I got fuel from as long as its been serviced the price is good. so the jury's out in my mind for evs and the theoretical length the battery will last.
Why didn’t he get the battery replaced? If it had free supercharging still it would have paid for its self really. Especially as I don’t expect cheap night rates to last much longer.
This also underlines what I’ve been saying for ages, your battery can state its in good health but it only takes one cell to go down to take a bank of batteries out and then the others won’t be far behind before it’s a complete failure.
I wonder how much supercharging he was doing since he was boasting about free charging everywhere? My guess is he was doing a lot of free DC fast charging which isn't good for the battery.
And 34K for a 9 year old EV is dumb, isn't tesla's battery warranty 7 years or 100K miles? his battery warranty would have been gone before he even bought the car
If he paid 34k for an 8/9 year old car then surely he overpaid massively. Lastly fast charging makes little or no difference
Bullshit
Going to Tesla is just like going to BMW with an 8 year old car and saying "I have an engine issue"
Do you really think they'd rebuild the engine or quote for a new one?
Imagine just the labour for that.
If he went to an independent Tesla specialist they'd probably find it was one of the known issues on earlier S cars.
BMS water damage, or a single faulty cell.
.
Plus "8 years old" is a coincidence?
How close to 8 years was it?
The warranty is 8 years or 120k.....
.
Great story.
So if that is at 5 years, I wonder what will be left at 21?
My 2003 Jag seems to have it's original range and not depreciated during my ownership..
Well with 360k i suspect circa 75% at a guess, so still 200 miles range. £7 every 275 miles at the moment, no oil changes, clutches, cambelts and EV's with regen use their brakes a 1/3 of ICE. I wouldnt do more than 150 miles with a 10 min break where i can get circa 25% battery increase in that time. 🤷♂️
@@chargeheadsuk And the depreciation in your 2 years of ownership?
@@matthewjenkins1161 According to Autotrader, my BMW i4 (at 12k miles) has lost £17k in its 1st year. However, I previously bought a 1 yr old BMW 335d (similar miles) for £30k (list price £50k). So that had lost £20k in its 1st year.
So in my experience, my EV has depreciated less than my previous diesel.
I doubt @chargeheadsuk model 3 has lost much seeing as he got it at £50k miles, but any car will lose more value if you pile miles on it.
Just an honest opinion.
Are you genuinely comparing the scrap value of a Jag with the depreciation on a modern car?
@@ArryBradbury I'm comparing the running costs of two choices.
I've had my Jag 5 years and it would fetch more today than I paid for it in 2019.
I would be more worried about it bursting into fire than how much the battery has degraded.
Might want to do some more research on EV fires rather than reading the gutter press or Facebook comments section 👍
@@bwarey52 No good trying to deny it, the evidence is documented. EV's are not fit for purpose, hence their sales flatlining, more documented evidence.
@@albertsmith1048 of course, documented evidence. If you simply Google EV fires compared to ice vehicles all the "documented" evidence says otherwise
The whole battery can be killed by 1 cell. Tesla has 96 Battery System Monitor BSM cards monitoring the 7,104 cells, so each BSM is monitoring 74 cells. The OBD2 display list of ~3.85V cells you see is the average of 74 cells, 1 bad cell on any of the 96 BSM strings, can be swamped by the other 73 good cells. Are you feeling lucky. Punk.
Love the comment, and very interesting. Lucky to 120k for the warranty right. BMS right, not BSM?
I picked up on that too. One cell down and the battery is scrap. Odds of 1/7104 - to junk the car.
@@richardlewis5316 what happened to repairing the battery 🤷♂️
I understand that repairs to individual cells cannot be made so the whole cell has to be replaced which is very expensive. Its not quite like replacing a coil set or spark plug!!@@chargeheadsuk
Yes it is possible to swipe out 1 bad cell for very cheap! Do your homework first, next time use Google first 😉@@richardlewis5316
Promo-SM
Way too complicated. I'll keep putting diesel in my vehicle, thank you very much.
£7 for 270 miles and just tyres for maintenance, do what you want but I'm saving the money 🤷♂️
I just bought my used BMW from a main dealer. It’s been absolutely fine. A Tesla dealer told me that all the used cars they sell must have at least 90% of original battery capacity.
@@grahamf695 thats interesting, i've not heard that before. Being able to test EV batteries is essential for the used car market. The normal car dealers and auction houses are still behind
Have you thought about getting a horse and cart?
@@chargeheadsuk but one day you'll need new battery 100%. 35k? so in fact you'll end up out of pocket.
*These Converted Evangelists will do anything so save there Livelihoods and Income - Say No More Squire - Wink Wink - Say no More !*
Tesla garbage 🗑 rubbish 🗑