@@PlamoTherapist can you put a link or a let us know where you got those bottles with the measuring lines. I may have get some to make some primers with 😉
I really like in this and many other of your videos, the fact that you explain in detail every technique and provide tips while so many other videos skip such critical aspects of gunpla modeling. Bravo! Regarding thinning ratio, I found that there’s not a “one dilution fits all”. As you pointed out correctly, each paint brand needs different thinning ratios and ofter certain colors of the same brand need different thinning ratio, like metallics (suggestion for a future video: metallic colors dilution and management with the airbrush). Keep up the great videos!
Hi, 1. What's the pros and cons of pre-thin paints and thinning them while painting? 2. Can pre-thinned paints be stored as long as the normal ones? 3. Should I pre-thin paints if I don't paint very often? Thank you.
Hey Kyle Great questions! 1. Pros is that you will have a consistent paint dilution that can be tweaked and fine-tuned for a whole bottle as opposed to just what you are using to paint. Cons, I honestly haven't found any in my experience. Maybe that it costs more because you need bottles to store the paint in, but that's all I can come up with at this time. Sorry I can't be more helpful. 2. As far as I know, they can be. If the paint gets a little clumpy, you can add more thinner to pre-thinned bottles to smooth it out. You can do the same for jars as well. 3. I find that pre-thinning helps ensure that it's properly mixed and prepared ahead of time and in my experience. As mentioned above, it keeps just fine. I have a bottle of German Grey that I've had for almost a year now pre-thinned and I haven't had any issues. A lot of information here, but I hope this helps. Best of luck, and if you need anything else, please let me know.
Really need to get back in the ring with the airbrush. Haven't painted in months lol excellent video man! Def referring back to this when I can get some painting in 🤘🤘🤘🤘
What is the difference between the differnt surfacer grades? And which do you think is more cost efficient, buying the can or the method for airbrushing airbrushing? So I have been doing research on airbrush paints because in the future the spray cans will end up just being more expensive than an airbrush. Im currently looking into tamiya lacquers or aryclics, idk which one to get yet because i dont know how far 10ml of paint will take me. Since the tamiya lacquers only come in 10ml and the acrylics come in 23ml. I heard that lacquers also tend to be more durable than acrylics For example I have an mg eclispe and freedom 2.0 kit that I want to paint. Lets say I were to use the same color scheme on both of them. Where I would buy 4 colors, black, blue, white, and light gun metal(for the frame). I would use the black and white to get a darker grey and also the black and blue to get a dark blue to add little color separation. And if I were to get 10mL of each of the 4 colors, would it be enough to fully paint both kits? Or should I buy 2 of each color
Hey there! Great question! Acrylic paints like Mr Hobby Aqueous and Tamiya acrylics would probably the only paints you may be able to use this ratio with. I recommend 91% Isopropyl alcohol with those rather than water or lacquer thinners. For paints like Vallejo, I recommend EA Gunpla's recommendation of a skim-milk consistency. Depending on the kind of Vallejo paint (regular versus air) the ratio will be very different. I hope this answers your question and I wish you the best of luck. Thank you so much for watching. 😁
hey buddy, sorry if this has been asked before. do you use the same 1:1.5 ratio for Gaianotes Metallics as well? specifically the starbright series line of paints (SB gold, SB silver etc.) also, how would a leveling thinner differ from say, metallic master thinner for paints like this?
Hey Cash! Great question! And don't worry if a question has been asked before. I don't mind answering it again as sometimes my opinions change too as I continue to experiment and develop my skills. 😁😁😁 For Gaia metallics I still use the 1:1.5 ratio, BUT I would avoid using leveling thinner or any thinner with a retarder as I get better results with regular thinner. If you can get the metallic master all the better, but unfortunately I haven't been able to try it myself. I would say start with a 1:1 and test it and then try 1:1.5 and see which one you like better. 😁 If you find a good ratio, let me know so I can learn from you! 😊
Hey Alan, great question and thank you for asking! The Mr. Hobby website recommends between 1:1 or 1:2, so I believe 1:1.5 should be perfectly fine. 😁 You can always test it out if you want. Start with a 1:1 ratio and test it on a painted spoon, then add thinner to make 1:1.5 and 1:2 to test on spoons and see which one looks best. Hope this helps! 😁 Best of luck to you.
Hey! Great question. My favorite is a 1:1.5 mix of Gaia paint to Mr. Leveling Thinner for most paints and primers (Especially Nazca 😁). If it's a glossy paint or topcoat, I do 1:2 Paint to Mr. Leveling Thinner. Hope this helps. Best of luck to you! 😁
@@PlamoTherapist Oh thank god. I currently live in Japan right now and the Gaianotes EX-02 Black i bought came today (22/01/23). I immediately pre-thinned it the same as Bottled surfacers of Mr.Color and forgot thay it was actually Paint. And like the panicked guy I am, Google is the place i immediately went to and found your video. Very thankful for your answer. Much appreciated.
Hey Blake, great question! While washing your kits IS best practice, it's not absolutely necessary. If you're fooling around and just want to slap some paint on a kit, you can get away with not washing it. If you are going for that absolute quality build, then I'd say wash the kit. Back in the day, it was necessary because there was a mold release on the plastic, but I still recommend washing kits so that any oils from your skin and any sanding dust from nub removal is cleaned before primer goes down. Hope this answers your question. Best of luck to you! 😁
Hey, great question! It really depends on the paints. If you're using the same brand, but different colors, you can mix them pre-thinned and all. If you're thinking about mixing brands, the safest bet would be to mix it before adding thinner, but it can be hit or miss. I've mixed pre-thinned Modo and AnchoreT and that came out fine, but I mixed Modo and Hobby Mio and that was a little weak, so it's more about the paint compatibility than thinning at that point. Best recommendation I always give is to experiment and find out! You might come across something that no one else has done before! 😁😁😁
Great question, and @Koyagi241 is right. Lacquer is more resilient to chips and scratches than acrylics are. You can see the difference in my GPaint V2 video where I did a scratch test.
I really want to do some lacquer painting but have a lot of Tamiya acrylics on hand. They allow me to spray inside as well. The G-Studio paints look really nice but are hard to come by at the moment.
Haha. I can completely understand. These AnchoreT paints are actually pretty forgiving. They have a sweet smell and the Modo thinner isn't that bad either. I'm fortunate to have gotten a set of the V1 before they took off, and a set of the V2 for review. If you can snag those, they're great to dip your toes into lacquer paints.
Hey dude! 😁 For Paints and the finishing surfacer, I'm at about 20 PSI. For regular primer and metallics, I'm up at about 25. This is for both my 0.2 and 0.3 nozzles. Hope this helps! 😁
Hey man! Great question! I have been using the Modo thinner, but the Mr. Hobby has also worked well. I haven't used the Gaia thinner with them, but I think it should be okay. My recommendation would be Mr. hobby though. 😁
Hey man! Great question! I have been using the Modo thinner, but the Mr. Hobby has also worked well. I haven't used the Gaia thinner with them, but I think it should be okay. My recommendation would be Mr. hobby though. 😁
@@PlamoTherapist thank you so much man. Really appreciate it. I was also wondering what is your go to primer? I’m not sure if I like mr surfacer or nazca gaia surfacer and other gaia surfacer.
Hey there. Great Question. As long as the bottle is the proper type of plastic (I believe it's PET), it will have no problems holding the lacquer thinner. If you are not sure which bottles are safe, I HIGHLY recommend the Kaizo bottles. I have about 10 back-up bottles so if I ever buy paint on a whim, I always have spares on hand. You can buy them from Robot Kai! They are not a sponsor, just a company that I highly support. Hope this helps!
@@PlamoTherapist Thanks I will have a look. At the moment I use glass bottels by Tamiya and Mr hobby but I have to use pipettes on them and a dropper bottel would be better for me. I do have some ethyl acetate for airbrush cleaner in a dropper bottel I bought at my local hobby shop and I guess they must be PET since Ethyl acetate is one of the chemicals used in Mr cement SP to melt plastic togheter.
@@PlamoTherapist Yes I have done some research on solvents to better understand what to do and what to not do. I have been into modeling for a while but I just started with Anime figure kits. Before I did tanks only. So I am happy I found youre channel I will subscribe to learn more.
Was about to paint..got the notification for this and now Im gonna watch this before lol
Haha. If your paint is ready to go, don't let me hold you back. 🤣
@@PlamoTherapist can you put a link or a let us know where you got those bottles with the measuring lines. I may have get some to make some primers with 😉
Sure! I'll add them to a pinned comment. 😁
@Plamo Therapist just bought some more laquer thinner for cleaning. Big can is a bragain at Lowe’s
I really like in this and many other of your videos, the fact that you explain in detail every technique and provide tips while so many other videos skip such critical aspects of gunpla modeling. Bravo! Regarding thinning ratio, I found that there’s not a “one dilution fits all”. As you pointed out correctly, each paint brand needs different thinning ratios and ofter certain colors of the same brand need different thinning ratio, like metallics (suggestion for a future video: metallic colors dilution and management with the airbrush). Keep up the great videos!
Hey that's a great idea! Thanks for the advice! 😁
The bonus tip was very satisfying to watch 😌
Haha. What part of the bonus tip?
@@PlamoTherapist when you were wiping the paint off on the inside and it was super clean! Super satisfying!
Haha. Where it just disappears and you're left with a clean jar. Oh yeah, super satisfying. 🤤
@@PlamoTherapist 🤤🤤🤤
Hi,
1. What's the pros and cons of pre-thin paints and thinning them while painting?
2. Can pre-thinned paints be stored as long as the normal ones?
3. Should I pre-thin paints if I don't paint very often?
Thank you.
Hey Kyle Great questions!
1. Pros is that you will have a consistent paint dilution that can be tweaked and fine-tuned for a whole bottle as opposed to just what you are using to paint. Cons, I honestly haven't found any in my experience. Maybe that it costs more because you need bottles to store the paint in, but that's all I can come up with at this time. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
2. As far as I know, they can be. If the paint gets a little clumpy, you can add more thinner to pre-thinned bottles to smooth it out. You can do the same for jars as well.
3. I find that pre-thinning helps ensure that it's properly mixed and prepared ahead of time and in my experience. As mentioned above, it keeps just fine. I have a bottle of German Grey that I've had for almost a year now pre-thinned and I haven't had any issues.
A lot of information here, but I hope this helps. Best of luck, and if you need anything else, please let me know.
@@PlamoTherapist always helpful, thank you.
@@kylep1903 best of luck to you! 😁
Another useful and valuable tutorial!
Thanks dude! Can't wait for the Barbatos video tomorrow! 😁
Really need to get back in the ring with the airbrush. Haven't painted in months lol excellent video man! Def referring back to this when I can get some painting in 🤘🤘🤘🤘
Haha. Thanks dude! If you ever need help, don't be afraid to hit me up! 😁
What is the difference between the differnt surfacer grades? And which do you think is more cost efficient, buying the can or the method for airbrushing airbrushing?
So I have been doing research on airbrush paints because in the future the spray cans will end up just being more expensive than an airbrush. Im currently looking into tamiya lacquers or aryclics, idk which one to get yet because i dont know how far 10ml of paint will take me. Since the tamiya lacquers only come in 10ml and the acrylics come in 23ml. I heard that lacquers also tend to be more durable than acrylics
For example I have an mg eclispe and freedom 2.0 kit that I want to paint. Lets say I were to use the same color scheme on both of them. Where I would buy 4 colors, black, blue, white, and light gun metal(for the frame). I would use the black and white to get a darker grey and also the black and blue to get a dark blue to add little color separation. And if I were to get 10mL of each of the 4 colors, would it be enough to fully paint both kits? Or should I buy 2 of each color
Can you use normal lacquer thinner I don’t hav great access to Mr color thinner
I know this video was posted a while ago, but can you use this same ratio with acrylic paints?
Hey there! Great question! Acrylic paints like Mr Hobby Aqueous and Tamiya acrylics would probably the only paints you may be able to use this ratio with. I recommend 91% Isopropyl alcohol with those rather than water or lacquer thinners.
For paints like Vallejo, I recommend EA Gunpla's recommendation of a skim-milk consistency. Depending on the kind of Vallejo paint (regular versus air) the ratio will be very different. I hope this answers your question and I wish you the best of luck.
Thank you so much for watching. 😁
hey buddy, sorry if this has been asked before. do you use the same 1:1.5 ratio for Gaianotes Metallics as well? specifically the starbright series line of paints (SB gold, SB silver etc.)
also, how would a leveling thinner differ from say, metallic master thinner for paints like this?
Hey Cash! Great question! And don't worry if a question has been asked before. I don't mind answering it again as sometimes my opinions change too as I continue to experiment and develop my skills. 😁😁😁
For Gaia metallics I still use the 1:1.5 ratio, BUT I would avoid using leveling thinner or any thinner with a retarder as I get better results with regular thinner. If you can get the metallic master all the better, but unfortunately I haven't been able to try it myself. I would say start with a 1:1 and test it and then try 1:1.5 and see which one you like better. 😁 If you find a good ratio, let me know so I can learn from you! 😊
Can u pre-thin top coats with the same 1-1.5 ratio? Example the Mr Color GX 113 - Super Clear III UV Cut Flat?
Hey Alan, great question and thank you for asking! The Mr. Hobby website recommends between 1:1 or 1:2, so I believe 1:1.5 should be perfectly fine. 😁
You can always test it out if you want. Start with a 1:1 ratio and test it on a painted spoon, then add thinner to make 1:1.5 and 1:2 to test on spoons and see which one looks best.
Hope this helps! 😁 Best of luck to you.
What about Gaianotes paint? Specifically the EX-Series. What Paint:Thinner ratio should i use?
Hey! Great question. My favorite is a 1:1.5 mix of Gaia paint to Mr. Leveling Thinner for most paints and primers (Especially Nazca 😁).
If it's a glossy paint or topcoat, I do 1:2 Paint to Mr. Leveling Thinner.
Hope this helps. Best of luck to you! 😁
@@PlamoTherapist Oh thank god. I currently live in Japan right now and the Gaianotes EX-02 Black i bought came today (22/01/23). I immediately pre-thinned it the same as Bottled surfacers of Mr.Color and forgot thay it was actually Paint. And like the panicked guy I am, Google is the place i immediately went to and found your video. Very thankful for your answer. Much appreciated.
Absolutely! Best of luck to you on your builds! Mad jelly you're in Japan! 😆
Hi Plamo - quick question: should you wash you kits before priming/painting them? I've looked around and have gotten different answers.
Hey Blake, great question! While washing your kits IS best practice, it's not absolutely necessary. If you're fooling around and just want to slap some paint on a kit, you can get away with not washing it. If you are going for that absolute quality build, then I'd say wash the kit.
Back in the day, it was necessary because there was a mold release on the plastic, but I still recommend washing kits so that any oils from your skin and any sanding dust from nub removal is cleaned before primer goes down.
Hope this answers your question. Best of luck to you! 😁
@@PlamoTherapist Alright - thank you. Again!
Anytime! Best of luck! 😁😁😁
Do i use this technique on 10 ml bottles or diffrent ml bottles
For smaller bottles like a 10mL grab a pippette to measure out your thinner. 😁
Hello, can you mix the pre thinned paint with other pre thinned for getting a new colour ? Or you need to mix it first and thin it out later ?
Hey, great question! It really depends on the paints. If you're using the same brand, but different colors, you can mix them pre-thinned and all.
If you're thinking about mixing brands, the safest bet would be to mix it before adding thinner, but it can be hit or miss. I've mixed pre-thinned Modo and AnchoreT and that came out fine, but I mixed Modo and Hobby Mio and that was a little weak, so it's more about the paint compatibility than thinning at that point.
Best recommendation I always give is to experiment and find out! You might come across something that no one else has done before! 😁😁😁
What are the advantages of using lacquer paints over acrylics? Because its to me everybody uses lacquer for the majority of their paints g
I believe they are a stronger finish.
Great question, and @Koyagi241 is right. Lacquer is more resilient to chips and scratches than acrylics are. You can see the difference in my GPaint V2 video where I did a scratch test.
I really want to do some lacquer painting but have a lot of Tamiya acrylics on hand. They allow me to spray inside as well. The G-Studio paints look really nice but are hard to come by at the moment.
Haha. I can completely understand. These AnchoreT paints are actually pretty forgiving. They have a sweet smell and the Modo thinner isn't that bad either. I'm fortunate to have gotten a set of the V1 before they took off, and a set of the V2 for review. If you can snag those, they're great to dip your toes into lacquer paints.
What psi are you spraying with for lacquer?
Hey dude! 😁 For Paints and the finishing surfacer, I'm at about 20 PSI. For regular primer and metallics, I'm up at about 25.
This is for both my 0.2 and 0.3 nozzles.
Hope this helps! 😁
What thinners would you recommend using with the anchoret paints? I’m unsure whether I should be using gaia notes thinner or mr color thinner?
Hey man! Great question! I have been using the Modo thinner, but the Mr. Hobby has also worked well. I haven't used the Gaia thinner with them, but I think it should be okay. My recommendation would be Mr. hobby though. 😁
Hey man! Great question! I have been using the Modo thinner, but the Mr. Hobby has also worked well. I haven't used the Gaia thinner with them, but I think it should be okay. My recommendation would be Mr. hobby though. 😁
@@PlamoTherapist thank you so much man. Really appreciate it. I was also wondering what is your go to primer? I’m not sure if I like mr surfacer or nazca gaia surfacer and other gaia surfacer.
My go to has been surfacer EVO, BUT I'm testing the Modo Primer and Mr. Surfacer 1500. I gotta say, I really like all of them. 😆
Where did you get the anchoret paints? I've looked everywhere and a lot of the paints are hard to find without paying extra to import them.
If you're in the US. Robot Kai has a limited stock left! 😁
@@PlamoTherapist Oh huge massive thanks 👍
Haha. Let them know who sent you! 😆
Nice wedding ring bro ;)
Haha. You noticed! 😆 Thanks dude.
i like to know what web site do you get your bottles at can you send me the link to get them please and thank you
Can i use leveling thinner on anchoret
Absolutely! 😁
So its safe to have the leveling thinner in a plastic bottel? Wont it melt it?
Hey there. Great Question. As long as the bottle is the proper type of plastic (I believe it's PET), it will have no problems holding the lacquer thinner. If you are not sure which bottles are safe, I HIGHLY recommend the Kaizo bottles. I have about 10 back-up bottles so if I ever buy paint on a whim, I always have spares on hand. You can buy them from Robot Kai! They are not a sponsor, just a company that I highly support. Hope this helps!
@@PlamoTherapist Thanks I will have a look. At the moment I use glass bottels by Tamiya and Mr hobby but I have to use pipettes on them and a dropper bottel would be better for me. I do have some ethyl acetate for airbrush cleaner in a dropper bottel I bought at my local hobby shop and I guess they must be PET since Ethyl acetate is one of the chemicals used in Mr cement SP to melt plastic togheter.
You sound like you know your stuff! I have no idea what chemicals are in each paint. All I know is that lacquer thinner is safe in Kaizo bottles 🤣
@@PlamoTherapist Yes I have done some research on solvents to better understand what to do and what to not do. I have been into modeling for a while but I just started with Anime figure kits. Before I did tanks only. So I am happy I found youre channel I will subscribe to learn more.
I appreciate it! I just did a Bulma figure for the first time. They're super fun and I hope to do more figures in the future! 😁