Installing And Understanding Radon Mitigation System Manometer
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- Опубликовано: 21 фев 2021
- Detailed instructions on how to install your manometer for your radon system. Understand what the reading means and what it tells you about your radon mitigation system. If you have any other questions about any component of a radon system, feel free to fill out a contact form on our website: www.indoor-air-health-advisor...
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Very clear demonstration. Hope to see more videos from you.
Thank you for your comment, we really appreciate it. We are so glad it was easy to follow.
Thank you so much I installed my rp145 and I was at 1.9 -1.8 with very little air flow. I then took it apart excavate some more and only had an improvement of 0.1, so 1.7 to 1.8. Luckily I have an insulated sub floor in the basement so I left the concrete par unsealed and sealed it up on the sub floor and I now have 1.5. I know this will create an increase negative pressure in the house instead of under the slab. We don't run gas here so I'm not to concerned. As Radon hit the sub floor it will get sucked out. Thank for your video it really helped me out.
That’s great to hear! Thanks for the comment.
@@healthyairsolutions5950 When I finished the initial install and saw 1.9 I knew something wasn't right. By watching your video it confirmed it and it confirmed me that I needed to do something about it.
We purchased our home in Southwestern Pennsylvania (built in 1890 with a full 900 sqft basement. It has a concrete floor. And, upon an inspection for radon that we wanted performed it was determined to have a reading of 62.4 picocuries.
A company was hired by the seller to mitigate the levels down to below 4. They came out and installed one 4" pipe in the lowest corner of the basement, thru the floor, up and outside thru the basement wall, then all the way up to 1 foot above the roof with the fan outside. Seemed okay rather than going thru 3 levels inside. However, the fan used is a "RADON AWAY GX4" and has a constant read of 4 on the u tube Manometer. I was told by a neighbor who just had his system installed last year (similar size house and basement) that his installer did the same with the same readings. Later, after having to replace the fan, he was shown that the 4 on the u tube gage was now where it should be with the oil levels reading about an inch higher on one side. It was shown to my neighbor the original installer did not dig out hardly any materials after coring the hole through the floor in the basement other than a few inches. His new repair man removed two 5 gallon buckets of dirt to achieve an open area for the pipe to draw from.
The first company had just drilled the hole a little deeper by a few inches than the pipe depth they installed. He told my neighbors: "You have a very powerful fan, and no way to suck gasses out. It was choked in the ground, pulling nothing hardly at all."
They ended up running two additional 3" pipes to the opposite corners of his basement installed correctly.
So my question is this: with my brand new system reading at 4 on the utube Manometer with only 1 4" pipe stabbed in the ground. What would you think is the problem. I have no valve. 1 pipe, one hole, no insulation or heat tape line in the pipe outside to prevent moisture condensation freeze up. I appreciate your answer and very intelligent & informative video.
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Thank you for the question! So for a GX4 a reading of 4 is the maximum for that fan. It could be that your pit was not dug out but sometimes even after digging, it still is not able to get enough airflow or reach without adding another suction point. A 2 suction point day is rare but they do happen. But how you would determine if anything needs to be done would be doing a radon test. If the levels are below 4 your system is doing it’s job. If not than you would have to look at the suction pit if it was properly dug out or if there may be a need for more suction points.
@@healthyairsolutions5950 thank you so much. This is exactly what I thought you would say. I'm going to drill several 1/2" test holes to see if it's pulling to those areas. If not, I'll run more pipe to the them.
Your radon levels were very high, we hear that quite a bit in Pennsylvania.
Just curious, what were your radon levels after the installation?
@@healthyairsolutions5950 the seller sent the test package envelope in for those results and hasn't received that info yet. However, at close of escrow on the property they did fund the money for an additional drop/suction line, or $695.00 to cover that cost.
In our mountain house, we ran two additional 3" lines...1 in the mid section behind the stairway (about halfway, or center basement) and one at the far end. The readings dropped to -.30
Pic. in that basement. I purchased the "Airthings Digital Home Radon Monitor " and hung it chest/waist high in our current basement to get a good idea of where we stand now, after the new install. I have as yet get a reading as it's instructions say it can take 1-2 days before getting a short term read. (I believe that's what it said, I'll re-read them) I did follow the directions though. At the 24 hr. mark it was still blinking on both long term & short term info lines. I am seriously considering coring a 5" hole about 8" from the newly installed unit to see if they did to me, what they did to my neighbor... no dig out of soil around the suction pipe. (Found out it was the same "reputable" company, go figure) I'll be going over to do more repairs upstairs today and I am hoping to get a reading. I'll be happy to report them back here....or, is there a good was to discuss/text message with you directly? So we dont discuss this publicly.
I don't mind doing it here so everyone can learn from this. My family will be living full time in this home. I simply don't care how many pipe runs I have to install to mitigate down to minus levels. I was told the GX4 can support the original 4" installation with 3 addition 2-3" evacuation points into the floor by the fan company...when installed correctly. Meaning open the area below the pipe sub/layers of soil under the floor.
Once again I truly appreciate your taking g interest in my situation and sharing your experience based knowledge. Respect to you.
@Rag Tie It’s no problem at all, we are happy to help. If you would like you can go to our contact page on our website and either call or email if you prefer to continue this discussion:
www.indoor-air-health-advisor.com/contact-us.html
We are a family owned company, so you will be talking to my father Val. He will be able to talk you through what steps you can take to fix your situation.
Just mention that you are contacting us from our RUclips channel about an improperly excavated suction pits.
But I just wanted to give a few suggestions tho, to see if your pit is dug out, you could cut your pipe around 6 inches from the floor or above the coupling, depending on how it was installed. Then you could look down and see the pit. At times when we have fixed jobs that weren’t properly dug out we have been able to suck enough dirt out with a shop vac after cutting the pipe. This would only work if things are loose tho like sand. But it’s a good way to inspect without drilling more holes than needed. Then you can fix it with a 4 by 4 rubber coupling.
Also, if you haven’t already done so, make sure to zero your manometer. Pulling out the tube and letting the liquid settle. Make sure the liquid lines up at zero. We have a video on manometers if that will help. If it’s not on zero then you will be getting even less airflow than first thought and would point to either the suction pit not being dug out or the need for more suction points.
I'll have to document my stuff. I don't think i have a problem but who knows. I have a partial finish basement with a sump and floor drain and an addition with a dirt crawl space. Inspector made them put plastic down before the house could sell. I can hear the vacuum at the sump well and drain.
Hi @woodstream6137 If you are hearing suction at your sump it’s probably not sealed properly and the drain may not have a trap.
If you are in need of more advice you can always fill out a contact form on my website and I’ll be happy to help. www.indoor-air-health-advisor.com/do-it-yourself-radon-mitigation.html
Thanks for replying. Previous owner had the sump cover siliconed down and it was a mess, didn't look like a pro job. I had to replace the rusted pump so put a new fancy cover with multiple access points over it. Didn't seal with silicone because I'm a noob and wanted to see if it worked first plus it makes yearly maintenance easier. Going to put 1sqft thin rubber mats around the perimeter.
After watching your vids, checked my stuff. labeled RP145, pressure is 1.4 I noticed the label only had sub slab depressurization checked. The crawl space sub membrane and sump pit boxes weren't checked. Battery powered monitor is always below 0.5
Sounds like the system is doing good. The RP145 is at a decent pressure and it’s not maxed out. Radon levels are good as well.
We often find that when you fix the lower section of the basement with a sub slab system, it fixes the crawlspace. It’s not always necessary to seal and suck from it.
If using the rubber mats doesn’t work to seal it, don’t be afraid to seal the cover with silicone. It’s a good option because when you need to get in for maintenance you can score it with a utility knife and it will come up pretty easy.
Excellent demonstration with manometer, I just purchased the RP145c. I was having a difficult time deciding between 3" vs 4" ducting. I only have an 1150sq ft slab with sump pit and drain tile + gravel underneath but I decided to go with 4" for noise concerns. But my fancy lid I have ordered comes pre-fabricated to accommodate a 3" sch.40 pipe. My question is am I defeating the purpose of using 4" ducting throughout only to have to reduce it to 3" right at the port on my sump lid? Or does airflow/cfm remain the same it just moves faster at the 3" port? Thanks again for your video!
Thank you for your question. Having the system start off at 3 inch is a restriction but you are benefiting from having the rest of the system run with 4 inch pipe. But what we do with those covers is we remove the 3 inch hardware and we enlarge the hole to 4 1/2 inch.
We have a new single floor house with approximately 1800sqft of basement. Our airthings is giving us a reading of around 4.5 since we have been in the house for about a year. Our radon pipes are installed thru the attic and is a 4" pipe. We have some separation between the basement floor and foundation walls and it is a walkout basement if that matters.. What size radon fan would you recommend?
Thank you!
You can began with sealing and see if that brings the level down. It sounds like you have a passive system, so hopefully it was installed over drain tile or in gravel. If that’s the case a RP145 should work. This page on our website discusses to troubleshoot a passive radon system: www.indoor-air-health-advisor.com/passive-radon-system.html
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you for the video. Is there ever a situation where it's normal for the manometer to read 4" or more?
Depends on the fan. GP-501 for example could read 4.2”wc
My manometer came with about 6" of tubing. Is it okay for me to buy and use a piece of tubing that is longer, as long as it is the same size? Using longer tubing will allow me to mount the manometer in a better location.
Yes that’s no problem at all. Just as long as it fits securely in the manometer and the hole in your pipe.
After fixing the radon eliminator, is it safe to use the basement for the gym center? thank you.
So after installing your radon mitigation system you would want to test again and see if your radon levels have gone down. The danger with radon increases with being exposed to elevated levels over a long period of time. So during this time you could use your basement normally as long as the levels weren’t very high.
Where can the air dampner be purchasef for 4" and 3" pvc. Also can a simple ball closure unit be used instead?
So you can purchase the air damper’s for 4” and 3” for PVC pipe on our website:
shopradon.com/products/Gate-Valve-Damper-3-or-4-p145309104
A ball valve could work as well.
My installer attached one outside and the rain washed it out; I'm installing a new one, how can I make it weather resistant?
You can add a small piece of tubing, perhaps from your old manometer, to the open side of the new manometer. Then you want to curve it and secure it downward so the rain can’t enter it.
@@healthyairsolutions5950 Do you know if the fluid inside can freeze? I too would like mine to be outside and I live in Michigan where it can get cold. Thanks!
So you don’t need to worry about it freezing because the fluid in the manometer is oil based.
We are over in Wisconsin so we feel your pain, stay warm!
@@healthyairsolutions5950 awesome. Thanks for the info!
what is the unit of numbers on the tube
It’s measuring water column.
So my reading says it’s at a four. Is that bad?
What fan do you have? Each fan will read differently depending on if its high flow or high suction.
Which one is better? Which do you want? What's the number you want?
So every situation is different. It would mostly depend on what fan you are using. That would determine the pressure you would want to see to know A) it’s working and B) it’s running efficiently.
Where did you get that dampner?
Hello @EINAR VOLSUNG, we sell the 4” and 3” version on our website. Here is a link to the store page: shopradon.com/products/Gate-Valve-Damper-3-or-4-p145309104
@@healthyairsolutions5950 why do I need this damper for? Can't I just install the meter and measure the pressure at open and if not enough just drill a hole, fix the hole or buy new fan? What exactly is this demper helping me with, what am I getting from closing it?
@marcusbiller867 The damper is being used in the video for demonstrating how the manometer works and what different amounts of airflow look like on the manometer.
Dampers are used in a radon mitigation that has multiple suction points for focusing more or less suction in either of the suction points. It’s only rarely needed.
@@marcusbiller867 The damper is just being used to demonstrate different resistances that are seen when a radon pipe is installed in the floor. It's just being used to mimic high and low flow situations. Dampers are used when multiple suction points are installed to balance the flow.