As a professional maintenance technician and a proud doer of all things possible by hand at 35 years young, this was very professional and thoroughly thought out.
I do this professionally, in my opinion your system is better than one of mine would be. I rarely do 2 taps, (though with super high levels we might) and you used the fan model we call the "fan max". Because it's our second biggest one. (Same model we use though, its a really solid piece of equipment. We see them last 3-7 years, and get a 5 year manufacturer's warranty) your info on slope and condensate is solid. You worked too hard on the foundation core. We get a 5 inch hole (I use a jackhammer drill) remove 10 gallons of material (if you have dirt not gravel you do more material. We dig with a shop vac, a crowbar, and a landscaping knife) and put our pipe in with a closed cell foam rod called backer rod wrapped to hold it in place then seal it with a product much like that self leveling grey stuff you used. No cage, and definately no backfill of gravel, as that reduces airflow a little (though your system has great airflow, that fan normally pulls like a 1.4-1.9 on that monometer. A .5 means you probably replaced a lot more material than I would have removed, so your round rock theory holds water), and would be a pain to keep on the van. Your slab seal was identical, your exit was nicer, we just silicon both sides. The straps you made are called 2 hole pvc straps, and are readily available in galvanized steel or plastic. 1 hole straps are nicer for people securing it to siding not brick, because fans cause vibration and transfer it through the pipe. If you put rubber or foam in the 1 hole straps it helps. You can also just cut the pipe scraps into c shapes, screw it to the wall and then to your pipe stack. Rubber or foam if you screw to anything but brick. Your cedar dowel trick is just diy concrete anchors which are also readily available in plastic for anyone too lazy to make it themselves. All in all, you did a really nice system. You worked a little hard, but less hard than I did my first install, and i had proper training, and better tools.
@@kmobthm about 2 inches past the slab give or take, but it's pretty forgiving and isn't an exact science. You're just looking for airflow. Dirt just means you remove more of it, gravel or rock is just 10 gallons.
If the desired result has been achieved, then just the right amount of thought has been invested. If the desired result has _not_ been achieved, either more thought is still necessary, or else the thought has been misdirected. In either case, thought is not really one of those things (much like beauty, as it is traditionally conceived), that is expressed in terms of existing as a wasteful surplus, until it becomes that the excess is to the detriment of something peripheral. Crap, my toast just burnt... d'oh!
We do this professionally everyday. We use a core drill to drill a near perfect hole then remove two to five gallons of stone to make a pit for the gas to collect in. There is no need to build a cage or pee gravel or concrete our fit is tight and caulked. You are correct on the fall of the pipe to shed condensation. At your second connection point use a regular T not a sanitary T sometimes they are hard to find but plumbing supply shops will have them. Clamps are available ready made and rust free we use SS washers and screws. Critters guards are also available ready made. Elbows are not allowed at the top of the stack per code in our state because of wind blow back. Your caulking was right on !! Nice job But if you were a contractor this would be a $6,000 job.
Best video on the subject on RUclips, thank you for the hours of work you put into RECORDING and EDITING the project, not just installing it. Really appreciate your video!
Thank you. Learned a bunch and am greatly appreciative. Looking forward to seeing other videos and following. There’s a roofer channel called Tar Master who is pretty witty. You’d prolly get some good laughs watching his videos, I just encountered his a few weeks. Just moved into an old clinker brick home with radon issues. 1924 built. Previous homeowner passed away a few years ago from lung cancer….so I have to make haste with this issue.
I love these videos, not because I'm going to need to build something JUST like this in the future, but because there's lots of neat little tricks in every step you do.
Hearing that your old fan was noisy, I thought of some advice. HVAC being my trade - fans break because of imbalance. Usually caused by lint or other deposits on blades, eventually the cheap bearings crap out from the forces of the imbalance. - I recommend yearly cleaning of the blades of exhaust fans, bathrooms especially as they are moisture high areas, lint sticks to them aplenty. Not sure about a radon fan, I'm sure seasonal moisture is an issue, if it breaks maybe it's worth a look at the condition of the blades. Thanks Pocket for the info-docu-opinio-tainment.
HEY! Stop liking this video before watching it! Just kidding. Thanks for the approval. Have a great weekend, and I hope you like this one- it was lots of work.
I was going to hire a contractor to do this until I realized I could do it myself. Your advice *definitely* did not give me any information on how to do this or clear up anything and I will *definitely* go back to hiring a professional.
I remember when my parents were suggesting I move to sleeping in their basement when I was around 14 or 15, my only request was that they first check for radon. Turns out we had radon, the system we had installed looked loosely similar to this.
I recommend just buying a continuous tester for peace of mind. Great video, I was also curious about multiple intakes because of having a really long basement
The little blue-liquid gauge _already is_ a continuous tester. Once the system has passed a test or two, as long as the fan continues to draw a vacuum, there are no reasons to suspect loss of functionality. In fact, if peace-of-mind is the goal, _I_ recommend not looking at daily variances, because they can start to drive you batty from overconsideration. Protection in this case is measured over the long-term, so assessments must be statistical. Continuously 'checking in' will cause you to remember all of the one-day spikes and forget the months of zero-values. Take it from a person who already checks his email obsessively: we don't need any more unnecessary reminders or notifications in life. Another thing the Radon 'experts' don't mention is that you can also keep the basement windows cracked during the temperate parts of the year. In my case, that's a further ~30% reduction.
I love how careful and thoughtful you are with your design and build, the pipe cage, the metal pipe "holders" and attaching the box to the block bed joint, I learned a lot watching you! Thanks!
The only thing I see, and this was after reading the warranty on these fans. You should probably add a condensate trap for the water coming from the roof. Without that the manufacturers don't warranty the fan. I had a system on our place and eventually the fan failed. Whether that was because of the bearings or water, no way to tell. But the fans are pretty pricey. I would get one of the better quality electronic radon sensors so you can check different spots. Great detailed video.
I had mine professionally installed and IDK if they did a cage at the bottom, but they only cored a hole the size of the pipe and didn't need to do any concrete. Makes sense to have one. Never thought about it.
That's pretty standard. Using a core drill bit that's close enough in size to just caulk around the pipe is typical. As such, they don't need gravel to support new concrete. Core bits are too pricey for a single DIY job, though.
Everything is very well done. Very clean. The biggest and most important thing you overlooked is a condensation bypass pipe. Your fan will get ruined again by condensation dripping down the pipe through the fan.
That was something I spent a considerable amount of time thinking about. Not something overlooked. Consider: it's a high-humidity environment inside of that pipe. It always will be. No amount of condensate pet-cocks will change the fact. Water above the fan will do one of two possible things: either it will become airborne and then exhaust, or else it will overcome the fan and run back through to the gravel. Keeping the fan totally dry would require drying out the water table that's under the foundation. No installation is forever; it's a replaceable part. But it's also worth noting just how powerful an evaporative force continuous circulation is: that's quite a bit of air volume being moved there.
@@pocket83squared When outside temperatures drop (either in the winter, or cold night temps in warm climates), the humid air from under the foundation will cause considerable condensation in the long run of the pipe that runs Above the fan. Underground temperatures are fairly constantly warm and the ground humidity contributes to the humidification of the air under the slab. Humidity in the pipe will not condensate in the house, but it will condensate when it hits that cold pipe closer to the roof. All of that water will go directly through the fan and back into the ground/gravel under the pipe. This is the #1 reason for failed radon fan. The main pipe should go straight up and down and the radon fan should be installed in a bypass to the side of the main pipe so that the condensation should go straight down. The section of main pipe next to the bypass should be a thinner pipe to prevent circular air flow. Almost all other videos on youtube use this setup and I believe it's important.
@@MattNis1 Thanks for the lesson on the water cycle, but am I really striking you as a guy who's in need of one? You're getting on my nerves. It's as though you didn't even read my last response. THE GRAVEL WILL ALWAYS* BE WET. The memes you use suggest that you are a sucker for marketing: "#1 reason for failed radon fan" sounds like the sort of thing that would be printed on the box, but anybody with a modicum of motor experience knows that it's dust-related blade imbalances that kill a fan. Note that I've kept a pair of $10 box-fans running for seven years in a greenhouse. They were even under a mister nozzle! The things were a blob of rust that still purred like kittens when I finally replaced them. Use the additional drain if you like. I remain unconvinced. *Absolute here used for hyperbolic effect.
I’m very impressed. Good job. I like the way you did everything. I’m buying a new home in Connecticut and the radon is 10.6 and we are asking the owner to get it professionally done. I like the house but I want to be safe. But good job with the video.
As a Buyer, you may want to instead consider using the fact as leverage for your offer. From the Realtor's point of view, high tests _must_ be mentioned on the Seller Disclosure, so it's a red flag on a house. By sparing the Seller the trouble, you should be able to negotiate well under the cost of a system. 10.6 is low-risk enough to consider delaying the install and/or tackling it as a DIY. Note that this is neither legal nor health advice; this entire comment is unprofessional satire that should be disregarded because I can absorb no liability for your life decisions. Hope you enjoy your new house.
Outstanding video. You do excellent work and I appreciate the way you present information; it really gives a sense of your thoughtfulness in approaching projects. Thank you for documenting this and sharing it!
WOW! The level of detail, and explanation, and reasoning around every little step in this Video, surpasses any other Home DIY videos I have seen! Thank You for making this great video! and explaining everything! It is actually very useful for me! as I prepare to do some light Radon mitigation! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
In Canada we are advised to leave the testers in place for a minimum of 3 months to get a more accurate reading over a longer time and its is best to do it in winter.
Long-term tests will certainly provide you with a more realistic picture of your house's level, but they're also much more expensive. As for the seasonal changes, I'm not so sure; I did get a few higher readings during the cold, but that's anecdotal. There are also tons of variables involved, and things can change. More important than what the level actually is is to act if you have reason to believe that the level is high. What I mean to say is that, well, whether your level reads x or 10x, when your slab is at a negative pressure, it's deflecting radon all the same.
Just used it yesterday. Really handy trick. Dad showed me that over 30 years ago for replacing (broken) plastic shutter plugs in brick. Those shutters are probably still there!
Ok, so every video is going to have a sort of theme to the commenting as views increase, and that theme is *really* revealed by the time a video gets to 100K views. By a million, it's just _ad absurdum._ With 32 minutes of content, it's just too hard to predict what it would be. It could be a 'suck' cliché, but that's probably too Dad joke; the point-to-the-obvious demographic usually falls a bit more to the crude side of the humor spectrum. But I'm pretty good at avoiding some of the more tiresome pitfalls by now-like presenting anything even remotely phallic or vaginal. Nevertheless, there will be TONS of reactions to the hidden frame in this one, if it can actually break 5K views. Burying .15 sec under 32 minutes of rubble reduces the tedium dramatically, though. Sorry: I tend to ramble in my replies to you. Hope all's well ;)
BTW, found the frame, but did not catch the reference, and just moved along. I guess it's a movie/video I haven't seen. Now I need to scrub through 32 minutes to try and find it again and puzzle it out more! :-D
Very cool video. One radon dude said the switch needs to be on the exterior if you mount the fan outside. My fan has one pipe in the floor and one in the wall I assume to pull from the blocking.
Thanks for this great video, now I have better knowledge on my Radon system, glad I dont have to install myself! I am a DIYer but this is beyond my capabilities.
Just a comment. SOME PLACES (not all) have code that requires a switch by the fan on the outside of the house. If you are DIY you might check before you do this so you do not fail an inspection down the road. This looks like it was probably built better than the average "pros". Good job. One question I would have is how to spec a fan size for the house. Other than that it all seems rather easy.
The RP145 is kind of the standard, most commonly used fan for a general application. Using that as a basis for comparison, its specs exceed what are necessary for most houses that use only a single tap. The fan used here was slightly larger because of the second tap. Also worth considering is the number of elbows in your system, since the extra turbulence can restrict flow. Sorry I can't give you a better answer, but every installation will have its own personality, so it would be hard to match a fan to a particular job without considering all of the weird variables. At least it's easy to tell if it's working once it has been installed; as long as your fan is drawing enough to cause a negative pressure, you're in business. Thanks. As for "pros," no thanks: I've known enough of them to keep them away from my own house!
Whoa, don't do that. You're telling me that it wasn't worth it. I've known too many contractors, specialists, professionals, and experts to let any of their ilk work on my personal house. The devil is in the details: as in the stripped screws you aren't aware of, the crooked pipe, and the fittings that weren't primed. Did you get a bird-cage? How about a flashed vinyl siding block? Further, that was a really conservative estimate that included a double-tap, a larger fan, all the shipping, and even taxes. You get what you pay for, so don't feel so secure in what you've "saved."
pocket83² I’m not saying it wasn’t worth it. I was just commenting on the price difference based on your numbers as most channels don’t post numbers. I had a very simple install with no electrical work needed as the fan is in my garage and plugs in right next to the garage door opener. So no siding to disturb. No birdcage either as the pipe is straight up and has no bend. I did ask about that when they installed and it’s like as it can frost over during winter and birds wouldn’t nest there due to the constant stream of air making nest building impossible.
I don’t know if it has to do with animals being able to “sense” radon gas or if it’s the constant airflow but I’ve only had one instance of an animal in the pipe and that was a squirrel and the power was shut off to the home for 4 months , so the system wasn’t running when the squirrel probably bedded down in there.
I'm planning to do it my self after buying a continuous monitoring device. My readings cross 4 every few days. Your video is very helpful. No one commented on the "Dunning-Kruger effect" frame you inserted after your clamps turned out too short? Thanks for your video.
6 years ago, I spent $1000 for professional installation including materials. $500 above what you spent on materials. But I did not have time then or else I would love to save those 500 bucks. Great step by step! Just a note, for mine the contractor taped on the existing sunk pump.
An experienced contractor is worth every penny. Typically an installer guarantees their product. We warranty our fans for 5 years and and the rest of the system has a lifetime warranty. Also we do installations way more efficiently than this. Less intrusive holes through the slab and knowing what materials to use instead of having to fabricate something onsite, like in this video, can save countless hours and allow contractors to be in and out of your home in about 2 hours instead of all day. Just something to consider when deciding between DIY and hiring a company.
Something else to consider: this is _my_ channel, and I won't permit you to continue spamming it with unfounded dismissive criticism. I'd wager my work quality against your "way more efficiently" done two-hour job any day. I *am* an experienced contractor. Now unless you see an actual problem with my system, scram. Go caulk around those gaping holes you leave in vinyl siding. lol.
Spamming? I made one comment on another comment on this video posting information. I wasn’t criticizing your work but unless you’ve installed radon mitigation systems for over 5 years in several areas of the country, I’d guarantee that you couldn’t do it as watertight and efficiently as someone who has. I was merely commenting that professional contractors that do this everyday and guarantee their work are worth the money. Take it how you want.
Fine: I'll take it as an empty guarantee. There is no possible way that a comparable system could be built in two labor hours. Every single joint was carefully primed and fitted, and a pair of hasty hourly grunts would do no such job. I'm sure you guys do nice enough work, but be honest: there's no comparison. You might _believe_ experience to be the same thing as excellence, but it is not. So please, go market elsewhere. Of course, you could also release a relevant video about your work, so that we might take a look at it! *Show us what you do around vinyl siding.*
I’ll work on making a video but in the meantime this video: ruclips.net/video/96K4Lke0H8Q/видео.html shows a similar method with a few modifications. We use escutcheon rings around the pipe when it exits and mount a coupling in the rim joist so that the basement guy can work off the inside while the outside guy works off the outside. To seal around the pipe itself, we use a 50-year polyurethane sealer that doesn’t harden fully and flexes with freezing and thawing. We also take steps to ensure no water will be sucked up into pipe during heavy rains or should a pipe burst in the basement. We use plumbers putty / electrical putty behind the outdoor switch box and around and the romex connector to seal any gaps between box and home. We seal up the sump pump with our own lexan sump covers, as well as any cracks & weep walls near suction point(s). I’ll make a video and tag you in it this winter if we slow down.
ive never tried using zeder wood or any other wood if i wanted to screw something into my wall. i always used these plastic ones ( sry i dont know the english name for it ) and i would mortar as well. but maybe next time ill try it with the wood :D - Thanks for the new ideas
We're currently looking at a house that was tested for radon, the highest point was 3.6 in the basement so it's considered "safe". I think I'll take the time to install somthing similar just for extra layer of safety as you've shown it's not a hard job for the average handyman.
Good idea! My house tested last year at 3.8, and further reading online informed me that levels vary with seasons, precipitation and other factors. So, I bought an indoor air quality (IAQ) monitor and in the last 8 months the reading has varied from 1.6 to over 10. So, I'm looking at installing an active mitigation system as well.
I take the waterproof electrical connection idea for my future exterior home instalations, Thank you pocket. Btw, I have never heard of radon...will google it after this video.
ps: how do you do with the radon in your water? extra ps: do you think that large scale use of fracking had a large impact in the volume of radon that goes to US homes?
I can't answer the second question. I have no idea. There are water tests, but the bulk of the radon release happens during hot showers, so I was thinking about running another standard test in our upstairs bath.
Thanks for the video! The only thing you may want to add to save the fan's longevity is to add a RadonAway Fan Guard Kit (76040-1) Condensation Bypass 3 Inch or 4"
I do not recommend using a condensate tube or pet-cock. It is my belief that they are unnecessary additional expenses. It's just another product to sell you. Consider: it's a high-humidity environment inside of that pipe. It may always be, depending on your house's groundwater table; you will not be able to change the fact. Water above the fan will do one of two possible things: either it will become airborne and then exhaust, or else it will overcome the fan and run back through to the gravel. Keeping the fan totally dry would require drying out the entire water table that's under the foundation. Remember, no installation is forever, so a fan is a replaceable part. You will not slow its rust process by reducing surplus water from a 100% humidity environment. But it's also worth noting just how powerful an evaporative force continuous air circulation is: that's quite a bit of air volume being moved there, so the fan itself is its own best defense against moisture.
I have been installing radon mitigaton systems for 33 years, this person has just a little ideal about how radon mitigaton works. He needs to have his chimney properly flashed.
You have one chance to not have that comment removed: tell me what I did incorrectly. And the chimney has nothing to do with this video. It has been flashed since.
My immediate response to this video was to give it a thumbs up for its entertainment value, but to consider its detail irrelevant for my current life. Turns out I live in an area where higher levels of radon are considered more likely according to a map produced by the UK Government (www.ukradon.org/information/ukmaps); never knew! So thanks for highlighting something I should be aware of; it's not a topic that gets much if any attention in the UK.
I'm suddenly realizing what a crappy job I did on my last home repair. I mean, I already knew it was crappy, but the number of things I did not consider before starting the bodging is growing as I look back.
Look on the bright side: at least you didn't make a how-to video about it. Imagine the best and brightest bodgers badgering you with a barrage of banter 'bout how badly you bodge.
@@pocket83squared I know just enough to be able to watch the video and say to myself, "oh, look, there is how someone who knows what they are doing thinks about the problem." The next level of comment above that I'd probably be looking for spelling errors rather than understanding what they were getting at..
A guy i knew bought a home and had it inspected for radon and it tested positive. The previous owners wife died of cancer and they couldn’t figure out the cause. Turns out she was staying in the room with the most amount of gas flowing in.
Really love the ingenuity for the PVC straps, as an electrician the whole time I'm thinking "cobra clips" haha! Nothing replaces doing it yourself though!
On the electric, maybe a slightly bigger drip loop would be helpful? And ... are there right-angle connectors so that the power coming out of the fan wouldn't be as noticable?
Drip loops cause a sealed trap for condensation. The conduit has a piece of scrap pipe snapped onto it near the bottom, and this breaks away a water stream before it can touch the siding box. As for noticing the electric line, it's sort of a non-problem to me: especially compared to the big, ugly fan and pipe system that it's attached to.
@@muchmuchmore that is untrue and a common misconception. Romex can be in conduit, indoors, in a dry environment. Romex cannot be used outdoors, regardless of protection
Ha! Thank you, but I'm not willing to give myself _that_ much credit! It's just my belief that I should further evidence-based reasoning where I can. We have a serious problem right now with ignorance pretending to be skepticism. The other thing I fight against here are the specialists who pretend as though they're practitioners of the arcane. Sorry to sound lofty; it's just DIY. ;)
The bracket you made for the vertical attachment is generally available as a bracket at Lowes in the electrical conduit section. Perhaps for your pipe size you may need to order from a commercial electric supply company. Yours is certainly nicer, but Lowes would be easier. I know Ive bought a 2" at Lowes - not sure if they carry the 3" or 4".
If your fan is mounted outside does your code require you have an electric disconnect located outdoors also? Nice set up dude. Only thing I could find to nit pick are 1, your Romex needs to be protected or supported while exiting the home. 2, what are the fla for that fan? Does that light switch support the load rating? That fan circuit needs to be gfci/afci protected. Probably should have used single conductors and transferred from emt to seal tight and kept going, while you can run romex in conduit I think you might be pushing the conduit fill limit. Awesome clamps.
And _how_ would you attach the conduit, then? Along the pipe? By tripling the amount of external wiring and then adding redundant fasteners to everything? Or: how's about we mount a nice, ugly bracket to my house? No. The flex conduit is already extremely sturdy; the short curve gives it enough rigidity that I would probably have trouble yanking it out using both hands. It can barely be bent to the radius that it's at! As for the rest of those nits, they're not very relevant to the topic of this video. You seem to be implying that a simple electrical fan will cause jacketed 12-gauge wiring to overheat, which is a stretch. Do what you think is best on your own project (following as much reading up on the subject as you can tolerate), but be careful about giving petty 'code' too much leverage against your overall decision-making process. Not that you shouldn't consider them, especially around an unfamiliar topic, but often such standards are designed to prevent the unthinking from harming themselves. Thus, if you're thinking, you may just be able to avoid harming yourself without the extra assistance. Oh yeah--but all of this was DIY satire anyhow, so be sure to follow all local laws, customs, and regulatory advice. ESPECIALLY if you've been hired to do this job! ALWAYS hire a certified whatever for whatever, and be sure to ask your doctor about radon.
There are a ton of reasons why a fan might last that long, but condensation removal is probably not one of them. The following is a copy/paste from another comment~ I do not recommend using a condensate tube or pet-cock. It is my belief that they are unnecessary additional expenses. It's just another product to sell you. Consider: it's a high-humidity environment inside of that pipe. It may always be, depending on your house's groundwater table; you will not be able to change the fact. Water above the fan will do one of two possible things: either it will become airborne and then exhaust, or else it will overcome the fan and run back through to the gravel. Keeping the fan totally dry would require drying out the entire water table that's under the foundation. Remember, no installation is forever, so a fan is a replaceable part. You will not slow its rust process by reducing surplus water from a 100% humidity environment. But it's also worth noting just how powerful an evaporative force continuous air circulation is: that's quite a bit of air volume being moved there, so the fan itself is its own best defense against moisture.
@@pocket83squared Cost is near zero at cost of 2ft tube, 2ft insulation (attic installation) and two nipples. Note that when humidity goes up - it is as water vapor. When water runs back - it is a stream of water (not vapor) that runs thru blower back to gravel. Yes, I have seen water run as a stream back through the tube. I went thru two fans at 3-4 years each before installation. Currently on 3rd fan at 10+ years and still as quiet as the day installed ... but OK, sure.
@@bigdog8008 High-speed motor parts don't discern between the aerosol version of splattered water and air that's saturated with 100% humidity, so I'm not so sure you should be patting yourself of the back just yet over a single fan that has lasted 10 years. _Correlation is not causation._ Or, if you prefer (since you were 100% certain before you came here, and nothing's going to change your mind), I can be snarky too, and say: Good for you! Make a video about it.
@@pocket83squared You have been snarky ever since I made the suggestion. Strange that all the fan motor manufacturers suggest using these - must be a reason. With about $1 worth of parts, doesn't it even vaguely seem reasonable to divert rain, snow melt, etc around the motor? You really should read "Draining water past radon fan motors installed outside". Written 20 years ago buy an installer using the same motors and installation technique as today. At the end - the writer concludes that for his company - has had a reduction in failures when using bypass drains. And when replacing failed exterior fans, they are now routinely replaced with bypass drains. Or watch videos such as those from Alpha Radon Remediation where he shows installing a bypass can extend the life of your fan. There's other articles and videos as well.
@@pocket83squared Can you explain exactly what is snarky about my suggestion? "I have managed to more than double (10 years so far) the lifespan of my fan by installing a condensation bypass."
This is the most reliable and efficient method for reducing radon levels in most homes. The test results went from 10x above the actionable level to less than the detectable amount. It works. No question about it. As for moisture, that is largely dependent upon the changing water table here. After lots of rain, you can hear it gurgle, and the manometer level rises. That variable will depend on your house's location (climate, grade, drainage) and its construction type.
Best diy radon mitigation system installation on RUclips I’ve found.
Not the only good one - just the best. At least so far.
Thank you, kind sir.
As a professional maintenance technician and a proud doer of all things possible by hand at 35 years young, this was very professional and thoroughly thought out.
I do this professionally, in my opinion your system is better than one of mine would be. I rarely do 2 taps, (though with super high levels we might) and you used the fan model we call the "fan max". Because it's our second biggest one. (Same model we use though, its a really solid piece of equipment. We see them last 3-7 years, and get a 5 year manufacturer's warranty) your info on slope and condensate is solid. You worked too hard on the foundation core. We get a 5 inch hole (I use a jackhammer drill) remove 10 gallons of material (if you have dirt not gravel you do more material. We dig with a shop vac, a crowbar, and a landscaping knife) and put our pipe in with a closed cell foam rod called backer rod wrapped to hold it in place then seal it with a product much like that self leveling grey stuff you used. No cage, and definately no backfill of gravel, as that reduces airflow a little (though your system has great airflow, that fan normally pulls like a 1.4-1.9 on that monometer. A .5 means you probably replaced a lot more material than I would have removed, so your round rock theory holds water), and would be a pain to keep on the van. Your slab seal was identical, your exit was nicer, we just silicon both sides.
The straps you made are called 2 hole pvc straps, and are readily available in galvanized steel or plastic. 1 hole straps are nicer for people securing it to siding not brick, because fans cause vibration and transfer it through the pipe. If you put rubber or foam in the 1 hole straps it helps.
You can also just cut the pipe scraps into c shapes, screw it to the wall and then to your pipe stack. Rubber or foam if you screw to anything but brick.
Your cedar dowel trick is just diy concrete anchors which are also readily available in plastic for anyone too lazy to make it themselves.
All in all, you did a really nice system. You worked a little hard, but less hard than I did my first install, and i had proper training, and better tools.
So when inserting the pipe how far past the slab do you go ? And how much material you make way for for the pipe ? Rock or dirt?
@@kmobthm about 2 inches past the slab give or take, but it's pretty forgiving and isn't an exact science. You're just looking for airflow. Dirt just means you remove more of it, gravel or rock is just 10 gallons.
Everything about this man's household is beautifully over-thought
If the desired result has been achieved, then just the right amount of thought has been invested. If the desired result has _not_ been achieved, either more thought is still necessary, or else the thought has been misdirected. In either case, thought is not really one of those things (much like beauty, as it is traditionally conceived), that is expressed in terms of existing as a wasteful surplus, until it becomes that the excess is to the detriment of something peripheral. Crap, my toast just burnt... d'oh!
@@pocket83squared Lmao, that was brilliance at its best, until the toast burnt!
We do this professionally everyday. We use a core drill to drill a near perfect hole then remove two to five gallons of stone to make a pit for the gas to collect in. There is no need to build a cage or pee gravel or concrete our fit is tight and caulked. You are correct on the fall of the pipe to shed condensation. At your second connection point use a regular T not a sanitary T sometimes they are hard to find but plumbing supply shops will have them. Clamps are available ready made and rust free we use SS washers and screws. Critters guards are also available ready made. Elbows are not allowed at the top of the stack per code in our state because of wind blow back. Your caulking was right on !! Nice job
But if you were a contractor this would be a $6,000 job.
Beyond removing the radon from the basement my favorite thing about having it was that it reduced the "basement" smell that was there in my old house.
Best video on the subject on RUclips, thank you for the hours of work you put into RECORDING and EDITING the project, not just installing it. Really appreciate your video!
Heading straight to the hardware store for supplies to not do this. Thanks for another great one.
I appreciate your standard level of precision. Not too time-consuming,but definitely not sloppy.
Thank you. Learned a bunch and am greatly appreciative. Looking forward to seeing other videos and following.
There’s a roofer channel called Tar Master who is pretty witty. You’d prolly get some good laughs watching his videos, I just encountered his a few weeks.
Just moved into an old clinker brick home with radon issues. 1924 built. Previous homeowner passed away a few years ago from lung cancer….so I have to make haste with this issue.
I love these videos, not because I'm going to need to build something JUST like this in the future, but because there's lots of neat little tricks in every step you do.
Using a lighter to see if there's a leak in a vacuum system? Absolutely crazy. But genius too.
This video is what made RUclips great back in the day. Thank you for the great content. Subbed
Hearing that your old fan was noisy, I thought of some advice. HVAC being my trade - fans break because of imbalance. Usually caused by lint or other deposits on blades, eventually the cheap bearings crap out from the forces of the imbalance. - I recommend yearly cleaning of the blades of exhaust fans, bathrooms especially as they are moisture high areas, lint sticks to them aplenty. Not sure about a radon fan, I'm sure seasonal moisture is an issue, if it breaks maybe it's worth a look at the condition of the blades. Thanks Pocket for the info-docu-opinio-tainment.
Service electrician here, all the broken fans we replace are filthy. This guy knows his stuff.
HEY! Stop liking this video before watching it! Just kidding. Thanks for the approval. Have a great weekend, and I hope you like this one- it was lots of work.
I liked this comment before reading it.
@@maxximumb hahahahahaha!!
I was going to hire a contractor to do this until I realized I could do it myself. Your advice *definitely* did not give me any information on how to do this or clear up anything and I will *definitely* go back to hiring a professional.
Lots of people install it, but I really like you paying attention to details. Great work !
I remember when my parents were suggesting I move to sleeping in their basement when I was around 14 or 15, my only request was that they first check for radon. Turns out we had radon, the system we had installed looked loosely similar to this.
That's awfully bright of you to think about radon at that age; so many adult homeowners still don't give any thought to it.
I recommend just buying a continuous tester for peace of mind.
Great video, I was also curious about multiple intakes because of having a really long basement
The little blue-liquid gauge _already is_ a continuous tester. Once the system has passed a test or two, as long as the fan continues to draw a vacuum, there are no reasons to suspect loss of functionality. In fact, if peace-of-mind is the goal, _I_ recommend not looking at daily variances, because they can start to drive you batty from overconsideration.
Protection in this case is measured over the long-term, so assessments must be statistical. Continuously 'checking in' will cause you to remember all of the one-day spikes and forget the months of zero-values. Take it from a person who already checks his email obsessively: we don't need any more unnecessary reminders or notifications in life.
Another thing the Radon 'experts' don't mention is that you can also keep the basement windows cracked during the temperate parts of the year. In my case, that's a further ~30% reduction.
I love how careful and thoughtful you are with your design and build, the pipe cage, the metal pipe "holders" and attaching the box to the block bed joint, I learned a lot watching you! Thanks!
Easy to spot a perfectionist. I like this guy
I am _not_ a perfectionist. Just trying to make a competent presentation, and do a good job. Also, you would probably not like me. Thanks ;)
The only thing I see, and this was after reading the warranty on these fans. You should probably add a condensate trap for the water coming from the roof. Without that the manufacturers don't warranty the fan. I had a system on our place and eventually the fan failed. Whether that was because of the bearings or water, no way to tell. But the fans are pretty pricey. I would get one of the better quality electronic radon sensors so you can check different spots.
Great detailed video.
I had mine professionally installed and IDK if they did a cage at the bottom, but they only cored a hole the size of the pipe and didn't need to do any concrete. Makes sense to have one. Never thought about it.
That's pretty standard. Using a core drill bit that's close enough in size to just caulk around the pipe is typical. As such, they don't need gravel to support new concrete.
Core bits are too pricey for a single DIY job, though.
Everything is very well done. Very clean. The biggest and most important thing you overlooked is a condensation bypass pipe. Your fan will get ruined again by condensation dripping down the pipe through the fan.
That was something I spent a considerable amount of time thinking about. Not something overlooked.
Consider: it's a high-humidity environment inside of that pipe. It always will be. No amount of condensate pet-cocks will change the fact. Water above the fan will do one of two possible things: either it will become airborne and then exhaust, or else it will overcome the fan and run back through to the gravel. Keeping the fan totally dry would require drying out the water table that's under the foundation.
No installation is forever; it's a replaceable part. But it's also worth noting just how powerful an evaporative force continuous circulation is: that's quite a bit of air volume being moved there.
@@pocket83squared When outside temperatures drop (either in the winter, or cold night temps in warm climates), the humid air from under the foundation will cause considerable condensation in the long run of the pipe that runs Above the fan. Underground temperatures are fairly constantly warm and the ground humidity contributes to the humidification of the air under the slab. Humidity in the pipe will not condensate in the house, but it will condensate when it hits that cold pipe closer to the roof. All of that water will go directly through the fan and back into the ground/gravel under the pipe. This is the #1 reason for failed radon fan. The main pipe should go straight up and down and the radon fan should be installed in a bypass to the side of the main pipe so that the condensation should go straight down. The section of main pipe next to the bypass should be a thinner pipe to prevent circular air flow. Almost all other videos on youtube use this setup and I believe it's important.
@@MattNis1 Thanks for the lesson on the water cycle, but am I really striking you as a guy who's in need of one? You're getting on my nerves. It's as though you didn't even read my last response. THE GRAVEL WILL ALWAYS* BE WET.
The memes you use suggest that you are a sucker for marketing: "#1 reason for failed radon fan" sounds like the sort of thing that would be printed on the box, but anybody with a modicum of motor experience knows that it's dust-related blade imbalances that kill a fan. Note that I've kept a pair of $10 box-fans running for seven years in a greenhouse. They were even under a mister nozzle! The things were a blob of rust that still purred like kittens when I finally replaced them. Use the additional drain if you like. I remain unconvinced.
*Absolute here used for hyperbolic effect.
Very instructive satire. Love the details of a joke!
Jon Stewart used to use that exact same evasion. Beats responsibility.
I’m very impressed. Good job. I like the way you did everything. I’m buying a new home in Connecticut and the radon is 10.6 and we are asking the owner to get it professionally done. I like the house but I want to be safe. But good job with the video.
As a Buyer, you may want to instead consider using the fact as leverage for your offer. From the Realtor's point of view, high tests _must_ be mentioned on the Seller Disclosure, so it's a red flag on a house. By sparing the Seller the trouble, you should be able to negotiate well under the cost of a system. 10.6 is low-risk enough to consider delaying the install and/or tackling it as a DIY. Note that this is neither legal nor health advice; this entire comment is unprofessional satire that should be disregarded because I can absorb no liability for your life decisions. Hope you enjoy your new house.
I like you !!! you use your head and your a born teacher !!! Thanks .
Outstanding video. You do excellent work and I appreciate the way you present information; it really gives a sense of your thoughtfulness in approaching projects. Thank you for documenting this and sharing it!
One of the best DYI's I have seen, great job!
WOW! The level of detail, and explanation, and reasoning around every little step in this Video, surpasses any other Home DIY videos I have seen! Thank You for making this great video! and explaining everything! It is actually very useful for me! as I prepare to do some light Radon mitigation! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Super! It is even better than my professionally installed one.
Good job man! Just bought a house that had a mitigation system professionally installed, so I guess I don't need to do the hard work you did... :)
One of the best thought out videos that I have seen, on any subject.
In Canada we are advised to leave the testers in place for a minimum of 3 months to get a more accurate reading over a longer time and its is best to do it in winter.
Long-term tests will certainly provide you with a more realistic picture of your house's level, but they're also much more expensive. As for the seasonal changes, I'm not so sure; I did get a few higher readings during the cold, but that's anecdotal. There are also tons of variables involved, and things can change.
More important than what the level actually is is to act if you have reason to believe that the level is high. What I mean to say is that, well, whether your level reads x or 10x, when your slab is at a negative pressure, it's deflecting radon all the same.
I thought I was a perfectionist but you beat me any day. Nice work!.
That's a great install! I appreciate the pride you took in the design and install.
Well done perfectionist. Your comments are insightful. Your responses are hilarious and educational.
Much more effort than I would put into the project, but I appreciate the thoughtfulness put into it.
Omg here i am watching you do this install and come across your cedar plug trick. Never heard of it and can't believe how clever that is
Just used it yesterday. Really handy trick. Dad showed me that over 30 years ago for replacing (broken) plastic shutter plugs in brick. Those shutters are probably still there!
Big help, thanks! Went from 55pci to .45pci, really was handy video
came to the comments for the "this project sucks" jokes.... guess I'm early.
+1 for angry wasps content.
Ok, so every video is going to have a sort of theme to the commenting as views increase, and that theme is *really* revealed by the time a video gets to 100K views. By a million, it's just _ad absurdum._
With 32 minutes of content, it's just too hard to predict what it would be. It could be a 'suck' cliché, but that's probably too Dad joke; the point-to-the-obvious demographic usually falls a bit more to the crude side of the humor spectrum. But I'm pretty good at avoiding some of the more tiresome pitfalls by now-like presenting anything even remotely phallic or vaginal. Nevertheless, there will be TONS of reactions to the hidden frame in this one, if it can actually break 5K views. Burying .15 sec under 32 minutes of rubble reduces the tedium dramatically, though.
Sorry: I tend to ramble in my replies to you. Hope all's well ;)
@@pocket83squared All is pretty well. Rambling replies welcome. Sometimes I comment just to let people know I'm watching. :-)
BTW, found the frame, but did not catch the reference, and just moved along. I guess it's a movie/video I haven't seen. Now I need to scrub through 32 minutes to try and find it again and puzzle it out more! :-D
Very cool video. One radon dude said the switch needs to be on the exterior if you mount the fan outside.
My fan has one pipe in the floor and one in the wall I assume to pull from the blocking.
Good job on everything, including video, if im going to do this i will use your instructions. Thanks
Thanks for this great video, now I have better knowledge on my Radon system, glad I dont have to install myself! I am a DIYer but this is beyond my capabilities.
excellent, detailed, leaves no question
Just a comment. SOME PLACES (not all) have code that requires a switch by the fan on the outside of the house. If you are DIY you might check before you do this so you do not fail an inspection down the road. This looks like it was probably built better than the average "pros". Good job.
One question I would have is how to spec a fan size for the house. Other than that it all seems rather easy.
The RP145 is kind of the standard, most commonly used fan for a general application. Using that as a basis for comparison, its specs exceed what are necessary for most houses that use only a single tap. The fan used here was slightly larger because of the second tap. Also worth considering is the number of elbows in your system, since the extra turbulence can restrict flow.
Sorry I can't give you a better answer, but every installation will have its own personality, so it would be hard to match a fan to a particular job without considering all of the weird variables. At least it's easy to tell if it's working once it has been installed; as long as your fan is drawing enough to cause a negative pressure, you're in business. Thanks.
As for "pros," no thanks: I've known enough of them to keep them away from my own house!
I appreciate your attention to detail and explanation. It has certainly given me some things to think about for my own installation. Well done!
Thanks for posting the cost in your description. You saved $200 on what I spent to have a local company install it.
Whoa, don't do that. You're telling me that it wasn't worth it. I've known too many contractors, specialists, professionals, and experts to let any of their ilk work on my personal house. The devil is in the details: as in the stripped screws you aren't aware of, the crooked pipe, and the fittings that weren't primed. Did you get a bird-cage? How about a flashed vinyl siding block?
Further, that was a really conservative estimate that included a double-tap, a larger fan, all the shipping, and even taxes. You get what you pay for, so don't feel so secure in what you've "saved."
pocket83² I’m not saying it wasn’t worth it. I was just commenting on the price difference based on your numbers as most channels don’t post numbers. I had a very simple install with no electrical work needed as the fan is in my garage and plugs in right next to the garage door opener. So no siding to disturb. No birdcage either as the pipe is straight up and has no bend. I did ask about that when they installed and it’s like as it can frost over during winter and birds wouldn’t nest there due to the constant stream of air making nest building impossible.
Where I live, I think a chipmunk would be the most likely thing to fall in. We have tons of them around the house.
I don’t know if it has to do with animals being able to “sense” radon gas or if it’s the constant airflow but I’ve only had one instance of an animal in the pipe and that was a squirrel and the power was shut off to the home for 4 months , so the system wasn’t running when the squirrel probably bedded down in there.
I'm planning to do it my self after buying a continuous monitoring device.
My readings cross 4 every few days.
Your video is very helpful.
No one commented on the
"Dunning-Kruger effect" frame you inserted after your clamps turned out too short?
Thanks for your video.
6 years ago, I spent $1000 for professional installation including materials. $500 above what you spent on materials. But I did not have time then or else I would love to save those 500 bucks. Great step by step! Just a note, for mine the contractor taped on the existing sunk pump.
An experienced contractor is worth every penny. Typically an installer guarantees their product. We warranty our fans for 5 years and and the rest of the system has a lifetime warranty. Also we do installations way more efficiently than this. Less intrusive holes through the slab and knowing what materials to use instead of having to fabricate something onsite, like in this video, can save countless hours and allow contractors to be in and out of your home in about 2 hours instead of all day. Just something to consider when deciding between DIY and hiring a company.
Something else to consider: this is _my_ channel, and I won't permit you to continue spamming it with unfounded dismissive criticism. I'd wager my work quality against your "way more efficiently" done two-hour job any day. I *am* an experienced contractor.
Now unless you see an actual problem with my system, scram. Go caulk around those gaping holes you leave in vinyl siding. lol.
Spamming? I made one comment on another comment on this video posting information. I wasn’t criticizing your work but unless you’ve installed radon mitigation systems for over 5 years in several areas of the country, I’d guarantee that you couldn’t do it as watertight and efficiently as someone who has. I was merely commenting that professional contractors that do this everyday and guarantee their work are worth the money. Take it how you want.
Fine: I'll take it as an empty guarantee. There is no possible way that a comparable system could be built in two labor hours. Every single joint was carefully primed and fitted, and a pair of hasty hourly grunts would do no such job. I'm sure you guys do nice enough work, but be honest: there's no comparison. You might _believe_ experience to be the same thing as excellence, but it is not. So please, go market elsewhere.
Of course, you could also release a relevant video about your work, so that we might take a look at it! *Show us what you do around vinyl siding.*
I’ll work on making a video but in the meantime this video:
ruclips.net/video/96K4Lke0H8Q/видео.html
shows a similar method with a few modifications. We use escutcheon rings around the pipe when it exits and mount a coupling in the rim joist so that the basement guy can work off the inside while the outside guy works off the outside. To seal around the pipe itself, we use a 50-year polyurethane sealer that doesn’t harden fully and flexes with freezing and thawing. We also take steps to ensure no water will be sucked up into pipe during heavy rains or should a pipe burst in the basement. We use plumbers putty / electrical putty behind the outdoor switch box and around and the romex connector to seal any gaps between box and home. We seal up the sump pump with our own lexan sump covers, as well as any cracks & weep walls near suction point(s). I’ll make a video and tag you in it this winter if we slow down.
I like how he painted the wall so he didn't have to paint around the pipe later
ive never tried using zeder wood or any other wood if i wanted to screw something into my wall. i always used these plastic ones ( sry i dont know the english name for it ) and i would mortar as well. but maybe next time ill try it with the wood :D - Thanks for the new ideas
We're currently looking at a house that was tested for radon, the highest point was 3.6 in the basement so it's considered "safe". I think I'll take the time to install somthing similar just for extra layer of safety as you've shown it's not a hard job for the average handyman.
Good idea! My house tested last year at 3.8, and further reading online informed me that levels vary with seasons, precipitation and other factors. So, I bought an indoor air quality (IAQ) monitor and in the last 8 months the reading has varied from 1.6 to over 10. So, I'm looking at installing an active mitigation system as well.
Fantastic video! Everything I needed to know to tackle this diy project, and plenty of useful tips thrown in as well. Five stars!
I take the waterproof electrical connection idea for my future exterior home instalations, Thank you pocket.
Btw, I have never heard of radon...will google it after this video.
ps: how do you do with the radon in your water?
extra ps: do you think that large scale use of fracking had a large impact in the volume of radon that goes to US homes?
I can't answer the second question. I have no idea.
There are water tests, but the bulk of the radon release happens during hot showers, so I was thinking about running another standard test in our upstairs bath.
Just what I needed as I was looking for a good DIY and instead found a GREAT DIY video, thanks for doing the work in making this ;?)
Perfect! only thing.. your screws/thread barrels on hose clamps should face to the other side so not visible :D
Why? Then you can't access them. And who's judging? It's on the backside of a chimney! Thanks.
This type of project is really cool
Thank you!
Nice video. In my area you must have an exterior weatherproof disconnect box for the electrical connection.
Thanks for the video! The only thing you may want to add to save the fan's longevity is to add a RadonAway Fan Guard Kit (76040-1) Condensation Bypass 3 Inch or 4"
I do not recommend using a condensate tube or pet-cock. It is my belief that they are unnecessary additional expenses. It's just another product to sell you.
Consider: it's a high-humidity environment inside of that pipe. It may always be, depending on your house's groundwater table; you will not be able to change the fact. Water above the fan will do one of two possible things: either it will become airborne and then exhaust, or else it will overcome the fan and run back through to the gravel. Keeping the fan totally dry would require drying out the entire water table that's under the foundation.
Remember, no installation is forever, so a fan is a replaceable part. You will not slow its rust process by reducing surplus water from a 100% humidity environment. But it's also worth noting just how powerful an evaporative force continuous air circulation is: that's quite a bit of air volume being moved there, so the fan itself is its own best defense against moisture.
I have been installing radon mitigaton systems for 33 years, this person has just a little ideal about how radon mitigaton works. He needs to have his chimney properly flashed.
You have one chance to not have that comment removed: tell me what I did incorrectly. And the chimney has nothing to do with this video. It has been flashed since.
Love your disclaimer
you are a great teacher....and quality of work!
Wow, great craftsmanship along with very informative video , Thank you !!
Very thorough video. I can see you have a lot of tools and you take your time figuring out the best way to do a certain job. Great job!
My immediate response to this video was to give it a thumbs up for its entertainment value, but to consider its detail irrelevant for my current life. Turns out I live in an area where higher levels of radon are considered more likely according to a map produced by the UK Government (www.ukradon.org/information/ukmaps); never knew! So thanks for highlighting something I should be aware of; it's not a topic that gets much if any attention in the UK.
yes.
I am looking forward to that next video!
I'm suddenly realizing what a crappy job I did on my last home repair. I mean, I already knew it was crappy, but the number of things I did not consider before starting the bodging is growing as I look back.
Look on the bright side: at least you didn't make a how-to video about it. Imagine the best and brightest bodgers badgering you with a barrage of banter 'bout how badly you bodge.
@@pocket83squared I know just enough to be able to watch the video and say to myself, "oh, look, there is how someone who knows what they are doing thinks about the problem." The next level of comment above that I'd probably be looking for spelling errors rather than understanding what they were getting at..
A guy i knew bought a home and had it inspected for radon and it tested positive. The previous owners wife died of cancer and they couldn’t figure out the cause. Turns out she was staying in the room with the most amount of gas flowing in.
That is actually pretty unfortunate, good thing you know about now though.
Another great point! 24:43
Really love the ingenuity for the PVC straps, as an electrician the whole time I'm thinking "cobra clips" haha! Nothing replaces doing it yourself though!
DSHPerotecH I was think why not but 2-hole straps from Home Depot? Almost exactly what he made but way less effort and material cost.
The closest option available to me was bulky, junky, and three times the price of aluminum bar stock.
Also note the "DIY" in the title.
On the electric, maybe a slightly bigger drip loop would be helpful? And ... are there right-angle connectors so that the power coming out of the fan wouldn't be as noticable?
Drip loops cause a sealed trap for condensation. The conduit has a piece of scrap pipe snapped onto it near the bottom, and this breaks away a water stream before it can touch the siding box.
As for noticing the electric line, it's sort of a non-problem to me: especially compared to the big, ugly fan and pipe system that it's attached to.
Very professional install. Thanks for sharing.
Great job and thanks for the detail. Romex shouldnt be outside as it is not wet rated. Conduit end to end with thwn is best.
As far as I know, Romex isn't rated for being in conduit wet or dry, inside or out.
@@muchmuchmore that is untrue and a common misconception. Romex can be in conduit, indoors, in a dry environment.
Romex cannot be used outdoors, regardless of protection
Placeholder pipe 19:51 genius!
Very impressive. You might consider painting the PVC to limit its photodegradation.
Great video and explanation!! Where did you buy your bird and squirrel top cap? Need to keep our critters out of the pipe.
thank U good video ..
I have a crawl space ..
Thank you for the time and the excellent content in this video, you will have saved some lives in the long run. Well done
Ha! Thank you, but I'm not willing to give myself _that_ much credit! It's just my belief that I should further evidence-based reasoning where I can. We have a serious problem right now with ignorance pretending to be skepticism. The other thing I fight against here are the specialists who pretend as though they're practitioners of the arcane. Sorry to sound lofty; it's just DIY.
;)
@@pocket83squared As a health physicist, I heartily agree. I have taken multiple measurements in my home and I am going to take the plunge!
@@navynuc1 Good luck. Check the description here for some useful info. If you have any questions, stop back. Thanks ;)
The bracket you made for the vertical attachment is generally available as a bracket at Lowes in the electrical conduit section. Perhaps for your pipe size you may need to order from a commercial electric supply company. Yours is certainly nicer, but Lowes would be easier. I know Ive bought a 2" at Lowes - not sure if they carry the 3" or 4".
amazing information. You have done an awesome job.
Top notch DIYer
Thumbs up for the great disclaimer!
Your tee is upside down. Flip it. The fall makes up for condensate and you get more equal cfm drawn from both ends compensating for your run.
If your fan is mounted outside does your code require you have an electric disconnect located outdoors also? Nice set up dude. Only thing I could find to nit pick are 1, your Romex needs to be protected or supported while exiting the home. 2, what are the fla for that fan? Does that light switch support the load rating? That fan circuit needs to be gfci/afci protected. Probably should have used single conductors and transferred from emt to seal tight and kept going, while you can run romex in conduit I think you might be pushing the conduit fill limit. Awesome clamps.
And _how_ would you attach the conduit, then? Along the pipe? By tripling the amount of external wiring and then adding redundant fasteners to everything? Or: how's about we mount a nice, ugly bracket to my house? No. The flex conduit is already extremely sturdy; the short curve gives it enough rigidity that I would probably have trouble yanking it out using both hands. It can barely be bent to the radius that it's at!
As for the rest of those nits, they're not very relevant to the topic of this video. You seem to be implying that a simple electrical fan will cause jacketed 12-gauge wiring to overheat, which is a stretch. Do what you think is best on your own project (following as much reading up on the subject as you can tolerate), but be careful about giving petty 'code' too much leverage against your overall decision-making process. Not that you shouldn't consider them, especially around an unfamiliar topic, but often such standards are designed to prevent the unthinking from harming themselves. Thus, if you're thinking, you may just be able to avoid harming yourself without the extra assistance.
Oh yeah--but all of this was DIY satire anyhow, so be sure to follow all local laws, customs, and regulatory advice. ESPECIALLY if you've been hired to do this job! ALWAYS hire a certified whatever for whatever, and be sure to ask your doctor about radon.
Самый полный видос по установке системы. Спасибо!
Damn excellent video, appreciate your method and advise
They are charging over 2.5k here to installed. I do understand that for some people, they can't do this but they are way too much expensive...
interesting ideas and techniques
Good detailed video. Thanks for sharing.
Your did wonderful job thumbs up
Surprised you didn’t paint the pipe using a brick pattern. Nice video!
Ha. I'm not _that_ obsessive. Besides, it's behind the chimney from the road! Thanks.
Impressive work, bravo!
Nice looking installation... but isn't the weather going to beat up that fan? I'd have put the fan portion in the basement....
outstanding explanation
GREAT video... THANKS
I have managed to more than double (10 years so far) the lifespan of my fan by installing a condensation bypass.
There are a ton of reasons why a fan might last that long, but condensation removal is probably not one of them. The following is a copy/paste from another comment~
I do not recommend using a condensate tube or pet-cock. It is my belief that they are unnecessary additional expenses. It's just another product to sell you.
Consider: it's a high-humidity environment inside of that pipe. It may always be, depending on your house's groundwater table; you will not be able to change the fact. Water above the fan will do one of two possible things: either it will become airborne and then exhaust, or else it will overcome the fan and run back through to the gravel. Keeping the fan totally dry would require drying out the entire water table that's under the foundation.
Remember, no installation is forever, so a fan is a replaceable part. You will not slow its rust process by reducing surplus water from a 100% humidity environment. But it's also worth noting just how powerful an evaporative force continuous air circulation is: that's quite a bit of air volume being moved there, so the fan itself is its own best defense against moisture.
@@pocket83squared
Cost is near zero at cost of 2ft tube, 2ft insulation (attic installation) and two nipples. Note that when humidity goes up - it is as water vapor. When water runs back - it is a stream of water (not vapor) that runs thru blower back to gravel. Yes, I have seen water run as a stream back through the tube.
I went thru two fans at 3-4 years each before installation. Currently on 3rd fan at 10+ years and still as quiet as the day installed ... but OK, sure.
@@bigdog8008 High-speed motor parts don't discern between the aerosol version of splattered water and air that's saturated with 100% humidity, so I'm not so sure you should be patting yourself of the back just yet over a single fan that has lasted 10 years. _Correlation is not causation._
Or, if you prefer (since you were 100% certain before you came here, and nothing's going to change your mind), I can be snarky too, and say:
Good for you! Make a video about it.
@@pocket83squared You have been snarky ever since I made the suggestion.
Strange that all the fan motor manufacturers suggest using these - must be a reason. With about $1 worth of parts, doesn't it even vaguely seem reasonable to divert rain, snow melt, etc around the motor?
You really should read "Draining water past radon fan motors installed outside". Written 20 years ago buy an installer using the same motors and installation technique as today. At the end - the writer concludes that for his company - has had a reduction in failures when using bypass drains. And when replacing failed exterior fans, they are now routinely replaced with bypass drains.
Or watch videos such as those from Alpha Radon Remediation where he shows installing a bypass can extend the life of your fan.
There's other articles and videos as well.
@@pocket83squared Can you explain exactly what is snarky about my suggestion? "I have managed to more than double (10 years so far) the lifespan of my fan by installing a condensation bypass."
Could you have installed the fan on the inside of the house?
I don't know if this is actually removing the radon gas but at least you will not have moisture under your slab.
This is the most reliable and efficient method for reducing radon levels in most homes. The test results went from 10x above the actionable level to less than the detectable amount. It works. No question about it.
As for moisture, that is largely dependent upon the changing water table here. After lots of rain, you can hear it gurgle, and the manometer level rises. That variable will depend on your house's location (climate, grade, drainage) and its construction type.
Thanks
really nice install
Good work