Perfect video. I recently bought a radon detector and here I am, 7 days of self-calibration later, the average is 8.3pCi/l. Given my recent re-interest in woodworking (in my basement workshop....), it looks like time to do something. Good to hear cost is ~$500 total, 4 hours. Great info. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video..by far the most helpful video I’ve seen for managing high radon levels by utilizing sump basin. After watching, I had confidence to tackle my own project and was able to get my radon level from 24.7 down to 0.7 with this very simple and effective approach! Me and my family thank you for sharing this important information!
R U sure? Don’t bite my head off. In the end of the day it’s just a simple question. One that could be made into a very long run, run. run away question. U tell me.
We put in a radon system a few years ago. Our sump hole, which hooks to drain tile, was not sealed completely. The result of putting in the radon system, which is sealed, was extremely good as far as I am concerned. Radon went from 13 to 0.7. Also I believe the system reduces humidity in the basement a bunch, AND also eliminates odor from the sump hole. Dirt and stale water actually stink. Who would have thought? It is safer and odor free. I definitely recommend putting one in if you have high radon.
Exactly my scenario. Over time I installed a smart switch on the radon fan and now I don't have to run 24/7. Figured running 8 hours a day is good enough to control radon levels and moisture. Saves ⚡ bill as well.
We are visiting In-Laws in Easter North Dakota. Radon upstairs is 44 and downstairs in the 90's. Our In-Laws have lived in the House for almost 40 years and no adverse health issues. I placed a window fan in the basement with it blowing outward. I just checked upstairs and down from 44 to 8.5 in 24 hours . They refuse to have a Radon system installed since living in the House 40 years never hurt them. My Mother In Law is 93 years old. There is also a Lutheran Care Center here, just a block away. Slab floors. I bet their Radon is really high. I offered to leave my monitor there for a few days and they quickly escorted me out. They certainly don't want any possible publicity there could be a Radon problem where People's loved ones are being taken care of.
It is also true that some population gets affected worse than others on adverse effects. Guess they are lucky for not being affected. The way I see it is that, in worse case scenario the system does nothing in terms of radon but keeps the moisture level low under the foundation. That is a big plus for any basement foundation and the living space that can get damp and moldy.
I really want to install a Radon Mitigation System while we are here on vacation. But, She says it's not going to happen. Can't convince someone in their 90's that something She can't see is real. Last year, when we were here, Radon was from 38.8 to 46 and we ignored it for our short visit.
might need to drain tile slab if not enough room for pulling gases when there is not much gravel below slab. be sure to watch install under slab videos. This video is nicely done.
Very good. This passes for home resale, with one exception. You do need a disconnect within 6' or if not possible, line of sight of the fan. Other than that, great job.
LOL yes, well you can do it by solar also, which is more cost up front but zero cost monthly. Since the fan is such low wattage even one good panel and some good batteries for overnight should do the trick.
Pretty good for someone not radon certified but there are some things you could have done better like the electric and lid if you really wanted to cut cost use a lexan cover and silicone around it but other than that good work
Thank you very much for the video. We have lived in this beautiful 19 year old house now a year and half and my wife has so many breathing issues. She has had to go on oxygen too. I just installed an Airthings house system and in one day the radon levels are in the RED. I am now going to install a mitigation fan system like you did. Thank you so much for the video!
Thank you!!! My radon level is currently 8. Been sick for months. Thankful to God for showing me what was slowly killing me and my family. God bless and be with you!
you should have seen the house i got. had levels of 45-50 and people lived in it since the 60's and none of them died from lung cancer(parents bought it and live in it till they passed away in 2021) but the second i got it and saw the lvl i started panicking. got one of these installed sealed everything and im 0.something now
The measurement unit is "pico Curies per liter" and should be written in pCi/L (where "C" and "L" are capital letters and "p" and "i" are not). BTW, in europe we use a metrical unit instead to measure the radon: "Becquerels per cubical meter" or Bq/m³ in short. Of course the two units can be converted together (1 pCi/L = 37 Bq/m3)
My radon sealant cost $170 for 24 tube. My house would cost $1300 to do radon and replace 2 sump pump. $2600 to get a company to do it. Fitting and schedule 40 pipe are expensive. My reading is 7 but I doubt I can get it down to 1. I will start on my system in a few weeks.
The cost for matetials is a grand easy. Pipe ($30 each for 3x10), fittings, breaker, 12/2 wiring, weather proof cut off, pipe clamps, glue and primer, sump cap, ferncos, caulk, sprayfoam, bolts, sds drill, pipe hangers, screws, radon fan, monometer, condensate bypass etc. I charge $2500 to install mitigation systems, other companies near me charge over $3000. I want to know where he shops...
4 hrs is not realistic for most homeowner but you did do a great job. Waiting for results on a couple testing kit, now I wish I bough a portable detector instead
@@moutrap Okay, thank you. So around 1.6 pCi/L ? If I did the conversion correctly. That is reasonably low. I saw a map of the US compiled by the EPA with radon levels by color code. If you had higher values I was going to see where you'd fall on the map, but yes, it could vary neighbor to neighbor... like you said. Thanks again.
@@PatrickWagz Thanks for doing that conversion. My levels were also about 1.3 to 1.9, but everywhere else I've lived and worked has been about .5 so I wanted to improve it to match those. After installing like the system in the video (for about $400) I am at about .5 average (whew!)
Just got 5 pci level of radon in my house, we are going to set up a mitigation system but we are definitely moving out by the end of the year. Radon levels in the whole community are too high. However, watching this video made me realize I have to pay someone else to do it.
True, you should test the standard outdoor reading in the area also, to determine if it is in the green (under 2.7 or better yet under 2.0) because if the outdoor reading isn't optimal, then a major air filtration system might be also needed for indoor living, and forget spending much time outdoors.
You did a great job with this. I am thinking of getting it done in my case. My Radon levels in the utility room with a French drain records 2.1 - 4.8 through the day. Data of 4.7-4.8 at the 11am - 4pm seems to be consistent. Should I be worried to get a system done? I don't have a sump pump
Those values are close to the acceptable range to be honest. I would do a long term measurement and then see if you need it or not. If you have the reader, do an average, min, max of a whole month and see what happens.
Thank you so much for this detailed and helpful video. Any thoughts on the efficiency of such a radon mitigation system, if I drill a hole in the HVAC room (right at the edge of the basement). I do have a sump pit with an ejector pump, however it is beneath the stairs in the very middle of the basement, so no way do drill there. My only concern is with the HVAC room location is that being at the very edge of a relatively large basement, it won't be able to efficiently suck up the gas and cover all that foundation. Since it is a finished basement, no way to drill somewhere else and then bring the pipe to the HVAC room... Am I overcomplicating things, any ideas from JJ Central or folks in this community? Thank you!
In your situation, plan on drilling a hole in the slab itself but make sure that the sump pump is sealed with a air tight lid so you don't suck up conditioned air into the system. It will work great even if you have it in the corner of the basement. If your values don't change much, you can always add another hole in the opposite corner of the slab and connect the pipes together.
If you have a surface drain that goes into the sump pump pit, then you don't use this method. Instead you just drill a hole directly in the slab and connect your 3 inch PVC fan into it.
Some one already pointed that out and I changed it to include the disconnect and a smart switch so I can run it on a schedule. Also updated the rubber connectors with PVC.
Newer perimeter drains are done inside the house. How do you seal above the drain where the new concrete meets the plastic/gap by the wall? Some type of tape? Otherwise, I can use the existing sump pit. Just use a flex sealant?
Hi thank you for this explanation, I just got this house and has random, where could I buy all this materials, I went to home depot but they don have any of this materials .
Just make sure the sump pit is not connected to any outside drainage that are open to air. Because all you would do is pumping in outside air instead of depressurizing. Also, if the sum pit is connected to any drainage from appliances (Central AC, humidifier, water softener, etc) you can't use the sum pit without creating a back drift. Learned that hard way. In either case, forget the sum pit and pick a place to drill a 4.5 inch hole, remove dirt and gravel and use that point for radon pipe.
@@JJCentral-DIY But what about the pipe that pumps the water from the pit to the outside? Isn't that open to air according to @nukestrom? My setup sound similar to yours, submerged pump, corrugated pipes under my concrete also going into the pit and I am wanting to install exactly the same system you did. Also, can the fan be installed in the basement instead of outside? Otherwise this looks totally doable!
@@JJCentral-DIY just thinking more about it, as long as there is a level of standing water in your pit, then the outflow line from your submerged pump should always be filled with water correct? That would prevent any air being sucked inward from the radon fan wouldn't it?
@@JJCentral-DIY nice. I am researching radon mitigation, my house just tested at 33.1 pCi/L. Going to have some companies come out this week, I had no idea my house had such a high number!
@@guidedbygreen1480 Most of the states publish general maps of radon levels in your area. That can give an idea of what to expect. If yours is showing high values then it is worth investing and trying out. Worst case you get a dry mold free basement.
Very neat idea and video! With that type of sump cover, how long would it take to dismantle, replace the sump pump, and reassemble? Also, where is your sump pump check valve?
The idea is to not dismantle at all. There is a glass window to monitor the pump. If I need to change the pump, I have two rubber sleeve disconnects and one of them is a check valve. It is fairly simple to service if needed. The lid is separate from the sleeve that is glued and bolted down.
@@RicardoLandinginJr Mine is aluminum siding, so I used a metal to wood screw that is exterior rated and a dab of caulk. If you have vinyl siding you pre drill and use any exterior screw but don't squeeze the siding too much.
does it matter where n my basement I mitigate from? example, we have a 2000 sq ft basement, how do i determine if I can put it on the west side or east side of the basement. I want to bore the hole in the utility room on the west side away from the bedrooms, but will it mitigate through the whole basement?
Good question, it is literally a process of sucking air. So if you have any existing sump drain or under slab plumbing, then map that out and put the hole next to one of those trenches which maximizes the air pulled from where ever the French drain or plumbing was laid. If no drain pipes were installed under the slab then you put two holes and run the pipes from both to the fan. I would start from one hole and see if the readings go down significantly, if not put another hole in the opposite side of the house.
@@JJCentral-DIY thanks so much. last question is location. the spot I am looking at would come out of the house about 6 feet from the AC unit and 6 feet from the garage side door. any issue with this location since I am venting 12 inches over the roof line?
@@Saint_n_Soldier the code basically says away from windows, deck or balcony where humans can directly breath the exhaust. Ideally above roofline which is standard.
if sump is open system, runs around the basement but its open not a pipe, will sump still be useful? I guess no because I don't see how vacuum can be created in sump. Can also fan be installed inside instead of outside?
You are right, it needs to be a sealed system under the slab. Your best bet is to cut a hole in the slab and insert a PVC directly in the floor. Fan can be installed inside or outside. The fan link I have in the description is quiet enough to go inside. Thanks.
So you started the Radon system from an existing sump pump? Purchased this new lid and added the mitigation system to the sump pump? Is that correct? Great video and great information.
Thanks for the great video. Very informative. We have an active system now but just have one 3' hole in the basement floor. If need be I could buy the sump pump special cover and run another pipe from the cover to my existing radon pipe our builder installed when we built our house. We live in the US. Do we order these materials off of Amazon? Thanks.
Yes both the fan kit with the 3 inch adapter and the sump lid are sold in Amazon for a reasonable price. Measure the radon levels first to see if you need it. Some times you can just replace the fan with a more powerful fan and Dig the hole deeper and fill it with gravel to fix the problem. Good luck.
Stephen, the fans are based on the resistance and the porosity of the sub-grade materials from where you are trying to get flow to mitigate the radon. So the fan he used may not be the right one for your home. If there is clay, sand or naitive fill under the slab you will need a high suction low flow fan and if it is caused aggregate under the slab then you need a high flow low suction fan.
@@justinberard, thanks. I have 3/4 crushed stone under the house (newer construction), so I guess I'd need a high flow, low suction fan. That said, I was wondering if he had sealed cracks and any penetrations in or around the basement floor to reduce indoor air from getting sucked under the slab by the fan. 2/3 of my basement is already finished so I can't get to those cracks, but am focusing on sealing wherever I can.
@@stephencosta6373 Hello, could I have an update on your Radon mitigation? Were you able to get a system installed and what kind of results you have gotten? Thank you!!
@@PatrickWagz , I’ve had some other work to do in the basement and outside, so haven’t gotten the actual mitigation system in and operating yet... hopefully soon! Note, I am looking closer at Fantech’s RN2EC fan, which has adjustable speed control. I also have two separate foundation zones (separated by footers that are all pinned to bedrock), so I’ll need to treat two separate zones. Thinking on installing PVC valves at each suction point so I can adjust the suction from each area.
@@stephencosta6373 Thanks for the reply. Did you ever have the radon levels tested? What kind of levels are you at? Thanks for the fan model, I will check the specs on that. The adjustable speed control seems helpful. I too, may have to do separate systems due to my foundation being in sections. Are you in NY or New England with the bedrock being so close to the surface? Thanks again.
Great video!! Very good info!! So am I dumb to get the 125$ meter to test my basement, all bedrooms and shop spaces or just do the mail in tests? I like the idea of being able to monitor it over a week period to know for sure. I worry that the amount of traffic in and out of the spaces could throw off the mail in tests, if that makes sense. Furthermore 2 to 4 tests costs what the meter does. I also have a furnace and a heat pump style water heater draining into my sump hole how would one go about sealing those from pulling air or wouldn't that be a problem?
Meter is always a good investment. Lab tests are a snapshot of one time at one placement, whereas a meter can average a week long reading. You can always sell the meter for more than half it's price after few months of use.
The condensation tubes usually have a one at check valves in the furnace pump, and I believe it will prevent air leakage when it's not pumping. Also the diameter of air displacement is far more than the possible leaks. When if it doesn't work on peak efficiency it should work enough to see reduction in radon.
@JJ Central well thanks for replying I am going to order the meter and go from there I appreciate you giving me your time. I am hoping for the best. Thanks!
Yes, a mesh cap is added and I point it sideways to prevent rain water from entering. www.amazon.com/Raven-Termination-Stainless-Slotted-Condensation/dp/B01BW2VWG0/
@@thumbnasiuminc4373 I don't see any code mandating a cap so most installations don't have it. The logic behind straight pipe is to let the "poisonous" radon air as high and away from the house as possible. I don't see a reason to let rain water trickle down the pipe and rust the fan etc. So Iam using a elbow fitting at the end.
Great video! Thank you so much. I am in Canada and never heard of this problem until this week. Purchased a good monitor and bam! Can I ask what kind of health problems you noticed? I always blamed my coughing/phlegm and my son's on dust... but I know we have no allergies.
All of Radon related symptoms can also be attributed to allergies or other viral infections, so it is hard to confine it to just Radon. We experienced persistent coughing, fatigue, wheezing etc and actually saw a difference once the system was installed. Even if you are a non-believer, it still benefits by pulling the moisture and the damp air away from the foundation preventing mold and other issues.
Is your fan running in your video when you are beside it? Based on your info a 3" pipe is enough for my install but I am having a difficult time making a final decision between 3" vs 4". I have read some info that suggest 4" might be quieter but it I guess it depends on how much and how fast the airflow ends up being. My sump pit is the main source of radon gas, all my weeping tiles come into there and my slab is ontop of limestone. I have ordered the same lid and will be doing the same install BUT the fan will be in the basement.
@@JJCentral-DIY Thanks for the fast reply! Glad to hear that (I'm assuming you are saying that when you are standing beside the fan?) and great video. Here in Manitoba these installs are done differently due to the extremely harsh winters so the fans are installed indoors and the vents are just inches away from the home and varmint capped otherwise the moisture travelling through the pipe causes this --> imgur.com/a/Q6I16pX
@@c.a.n.4202 yes the fan is running during the video taping. You can see the manometer having pressure. That was a continuous recording from outside to inside. I did another install with the same fan inside and it is whisper quiet.
@Chris Collings If there is an opportunity for some one to create a certification, they would in United States. Of course there is one for radon as well. In fact there is one to just measure and test radon and there is one to install mitigation systems. Two boards offer that, Check out nrpp or aarst.
1970s house, bought the house three years ago. After few months the symptoms were noticeable on and off in family members. We always blamed it on allergies. Now I have a meter I can graph the radon level ups and down to see if the symptoms are coinciding with the timing.
@@JJCentral-DIY Thank you for the update. So, the radon meter you mentioned for $125... do you think it is pretty accurate? Did you ever perform one of those test kits that you mail away to the labs, to see if the radon values were similar? Thanks again.
@@PatrickWagz yes, that meter is pretty accurate. Many in the Amazon comments showed side by side with professional equipment reading similar values. I posted the links on the description.
As far as Radon exposure is concerned, all the fear and hype was initiated by a case that happened in 1984... I copy and paste from Wikipedia: "The presence of radon in indoor air was documented as early as 1950. Beginning in the 1970s, research was initiated to address sources of indoor radon, determinants of concentration, health effects, and mitigation approaches. In the US, the problem of indoor radon received widespread publicity and intensified investigation after a widely publicized incident in 1984. During routine monitoring at a Pennsylvania nuclear power plant, a worker was found to be contaminated with radioactivity. A high concentration of radon in his home was subsequently identified as responsible.[72]" So, the guy who WORKED in a nuclear power plant, and who circulated in and out from there to his home every day, caused all this excitement and the ensuing regulations! He might not have followed decontamination protocols for his work clothes upon leaving, and thus carried these reactive particles into his home every day. The half-life products of Radon, which occur 3.8 days after Radon is emitted, can attach themselves to fabric or dust or other surfaces and therefor be transported. They are still radio-active, and therefor can cause radiation poisoning. Also from Wikipedia: "Radon is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless[11] gas and therefore is not detectable by human senses alone. At standard temperature and pressure, it forms a monatomic gas with a density of 9.73 kg/m3, about 8 times the density of the Earth's atmosphere at sea level, 1.217 kg/m3.[12] It is one of the densest gases at room temperature and is the densest of the noble gases." So... eight times the density of the Earth's atmosphere.... hmmmm .... pretty dense, I'd say. How come it can cross such thick barriers in homes, like concrete slabs? That does not sound very likely to me! If you read the entire treaty about Radon, you also learn that it occurs naturally everywhere outside, in Nature, and there is is most at a concentration of , and I quote: "Radon concentration in the atmosphere is usually measured in becquerel per cubic meter (Bq/m3), the SI derived unit. Another unit of measurement common in the US is picocuries per liter (pCi/L); 1 pCi/L = 37 Bq/m3.[43] Typical domestic exposures average about 48 Bq/m3 indoors, though this varies widely, and 15 Bq/m3 outdoors.[74]" So, converted to the US unit of pCi/L, this gives us for inside about 1.3 pCi/L and less than 0.5 pCi/L outside on average! It makes no sense to me that Radon should be more concentrated in a basement, where it has to penetrate a concrete slab to get inside the basement space, than outside, where there is no barrier impeding its emanation! In conclusion, this is once more a bunch of hype, scaring people and last but most of all not least, a big money maker for the so-called "Health Hazard Remediation Industry"! I'm glad I figured this out for all of you! Don't be fooled! Use your brain cells! Live long and prosper!
"this gives us for inside about 1.3 pCi/L and less than 0.5 pCi/L outside on average!" ---> Yup... correct, those are accepted as within safe levels :) "It makes no sense to me that Radon should be more concentrated in a basement, where it has to penetrate a concrete slab to get inside the basement space" ---> True, if it is a concrete slab home. Many homes are built directly on Dirt, with zero barrier to the basement or crawl space. It is those homes which are susceptible to easy penetration by radon rising from the earth, which varies from area to area. In your notes you also mentioned the part about some of the by products which attach to dust and fabric, and it is those with which people might be concerned. Thanks for posting that info!
Are all these comments from all fake A.I. or BOT accounts? I’m gonna go out here on a Limb and say tht over 3/4 are from fake accounts. This is the new us in the world of Tech nowadays. We grab us some A.I. to make us look a tiny bit relevant to a situation.
Perfect video.
I recently bought a radon detector and here I am, 7 days of self-calibration later, the average is 8.3pCi/l.
Given my recent re-interest in woodworking (in my basement workshop....), it looks like time to do something.
Good to hear cost is ~$500 total, 4 hours.
Great info. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video..by far the most helpful video I’ve seen for managing high radon levels by utilizing sump basin. After watching, I had confidence to tackle my own project and was able to get my radon level from 24.7 down to 0.7 with this very simple and effective approach! Me and my family thank you for sharing this important information!
What a wonderful feedback. Glad to hear your levels are down drastically. Enjoy a radon free healthier life.
Yes very good!
Great job on the video! Very informative and not too “wordy” or unnecessarily long….one of my biggest pet peeves with RUclips “how to” videos!
R U sure? Don’t bite my head off. In the end of the day it’s just a simple question. One that could be made into a very long run, run. run away question. U tell me.
We put in a radon system a few years ago. Our sump hole, which hooks to drain tile, was not sealed completely. The result of putting in the radon system, which is sealed, was extremely good as far as I am concerned. Radon went from 13 to 0.7. Also I believe the system reduces humidity in the basement a bunch, AND also eliminates odor from the sump hole. Dirt and stale water actually stink. Who would have thought? It is safer and odor free. I definitely recommend putting one in if you have high radon.
Exactly my scenario. Over time I installed a smart switch on the radon fan and now I don't have to run 24/7. Figured running 8 hours a day is good enough to control radon levels and moisture. Saves ⚡ bill as well.
We are visiting In-Laws in Easter North Dakota. Radon upstairs is 44 and downstairs in the 90's. Our In-Laws have lived in the House for almost 40 years and no adverse health issues. I placed a window fan in the basement with it blowing outward. I just checked upstairs and down from 44 to 8.5 in 24 hours . They refuse to have a Radon system installed since living in the House 40 years never hurt them. My Mother In Law is 93 years old. There is also a Lutheran Care Center here, just a block away. Slab floors. I bet their Radon is really high. I offered to leave my monitor there for a few days and they quickly escorted me out. They certainly don't want any possible publicity there could be a Radon problem where People's loved ones are being taken care of.
If they listen to you... then they aren't your in-laws, aren't they?
It is also true that some population gets affected worse than others on adverse effects. Guess they are lucky for not being affected. The way I see it is that, in worse case scenario the system does nothing in terms of radon but keeps the moisture level low under the foundation. That is a big plus for any basement foundation and the living space that can get damp and moldy.
I really want to install a Radon
Mitigation System while we are here on vacation. But, She says it's not going to happen. Can't convince someone in their 90's that something She can't see is real. Last year, when we were here, Radon was from 38.8 to 46 and we ignored it for our short visit.
☢️ Yikes, that's a lot! ☢️
@@f270 And in a couple weeks we are heading out to visit for a week or so. More Radon exposure for us. Dammit.
Thank you! Best radon mitigation video out there. Clear and to the point.
might need to drain tile slab if not enough room for pulling gases when there is not much gravel below slab. be sure to watch install under slab videos. This video is nicely done.
Very good. This passes for home resale, with one exception. You do need a disconnect within 6' or if not possible, line of sight of the fan. Other than that, great job.
Agreed. NEC dictates a form of electrical disconnect. Best would be in the form of a waterproof box and switch.
Thank you for the suggestion. Installed a disconnect switch near the fan.
Thanks for sharing this with us.
God bless you and your family!
Thanks much, for such a detailed explanation to other DIY'ers. Straight to the topic, problem and solution!!
My Grandma- This costs me $5 to run per month??????
“I’ll take my chances with possibly getting lung cancer”
LOL yes, well you can do it by solar also, which is more cost up front but zero cost monthly. Since the fan is such low wattage even one good panel and some good batteries for overnight should do the trick.
Pretty good for someone not radon certified but there are some things you could have done better like the electric and lid if you really wanted to cut cost use a lexan cover and silicone around it but other than that good work
Thank you so much for posting this! Five stars. I'll follow up once install mine.
Your presentation is exemplary in its thoroughness. Clear concise very good.
Thank you for the compliment.
Thank you very much for the video. We have lived in this beautiful 19 year old house now a year and half and my wife has so many breathing issues. She has had to go on oxygen too. I just installed an Airthings house system and in one day the radon levels are in the RED. I am now going to install a mitigation fan system like you did. Thank you so much for the video!
Glad it was helpful. We are seeing big difference in respiratory health after the system was installed. Worth every penny.
@@friendlyskiespodcast It has worked perfectly. Radon down from 7.5 to 0.1, it does fluctuate but is so low.
Thank you!!! My radon level is currently 8. Been sick for months. Thankful to God for showing me what was slowly killing me and my family. God bless and be with you!
Glad to help, come back and report in couple of months if a mitigation system helped with health. Thanks.
Where did you get the sump lid? Name of it?
@@georgelichak3972 all the part links are in the description.
you should have seen the house i got. had levels of 45-50 and people lived in it since the 60's and none of them died from lung cancer(parents bought it and live in it till they passed away in 2021) but the second i got it and saw the lvl i started panicking. got one of these installed sealed everything and im 0.something now
Excellent information, under $500 radon mitigation system. Thanks
Great informative video. More than I have gotten from professional radon mitigation people!
They have a reason not to disclose everything. Lol.
@@JJCentral-DIY yes it's all about money
It’s not all about money! There are many companies out there that do not have licensed and certified technicians so make sure to do your research
And you cannot do it yourself because you need a license and certified technician if you ever get an inspection
The measurement unit is "pico Curies per liter" and should be written in pCi/L (where "C" and "L" are capital letters and "p" and "i" are not).
BTW, in europe we use a metrical unit instead to measure the radon: "Becquerels per cubical meter" or Bq/m³ in short.
Of course the two units can be converted together (1 pCi/L = 37 Bq/m3)
Excellent explanation and cost analysis
Very well presented with great content. Thxs for sharing the items you used and quick links to buy.
My radon sealant cost $170 for 24 tube. My house would cost $1300 to do radon and replace 2 sump pump. $2600 to get a company to do it. Fitting and schedule 40 pipe are expensive. My reading is 7 but I doubt I can get it down to 1. I will start on my system in a few weeks.
Thanks for the video! I will be doing this when we move into our new house.
The cost for matetials is a grand easy. Pipe ($30 each for 3x10), fittings, breaker, 12/2 wiring, weather proof cut off, pipe clamps, glue and primer, sump cap, ferncos, caulk, sprayfoam, bolts, sds drill, pipe hangers, screws, radon fan, monometer, condensate bypass etc. I charge $2500 to install mitigation systems, other companies near me charge over $3000. I want to know where he shops...
4 hrs is not realistic for most homeowner but you did do a great job. Waiting for results on a couple testing kit, now I wish I bough a portable detector instead
Could I ask your radon level results and what part of the world/US are you located? Thank you.
@@PatrickWagz Got around 50-60bq/m3 in QC, Canada. Location doesn't mean anything though since my neighbor could be at 500
@@moutrap Okay, thank you. So around 1.6 pCi/L ? If I did the conversion correctly. That is reasonably low. I saw a map of the US compiled by the EPA with radon levels by color code. If you had higher values I was going to see where you'd fall on the map, but yes, it could vary neighbor to neighbor... like you said. Thanks again.
@@PatrickWagz Thanks for doing that conversion. My levels were also about 1.3 to 1.9, but everywhere else I've lived and worked has been about .5 so I wanted to improve it to match those. After installing like the system in the video (for about $400) I am at about .5 average (whew!)
Those are great results. Great work!
Outstanding video! Thank you for being so thorough with the information.
Just got 5 pci level of radon in my house, we are going to set up a mitigation system but we are definitely moving out by the end of the year. Radon levels in the whole community are too high. However, watching this video made me realize I have to pay someone else to do it.
True, you should test the standard outdoor reading in the area also, to determine if it is in the green (under 2.7 or better yet under 2.0) because if the outdoor reading isn't optimal, then a major air filtration system might be also needed for indoor living, and forget spending much time outdoors.
Thank you very much for this video. It's very helpful!
A few problems: 1) No shutdown switch outside to stop the fan from outside; 2) The outside electric not done right in general :(
Thank you for the excellent video and explanation. Very informative and to the point.
thank you best video i have seen on this topic. really nailed it!!! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
what if the French drains run along exterior of home? I do have a submersible sump.
Then it will be ineffective. You need the air under the slab pulled up into the pump. Better to drill a hole in the concrete and stick a PVC into it.
You did a great job with this. I am thinking of getting it done in my case.
My Radon levels in the utility room with a French drain records 2.1 - 4.8 through the day. Data of 4.7-4.8 at the 11am - 4pm seems to be consistent.
Should I be worried to get a system done? I don't have a sump pump
Those values are close to the acceptable range to be honest. I would do a long term measurement and then see if you need it or not. If you have the reader, do an average, min, max of a whole month and see what happens.
Fantastic Instructional Video! Thanks!
what did you do about the floor drain???
Excellent information and thank you for sharing the links to the products for this DIY project.
You need a disconnect switch outside for the electrical.
Yes, some one mentioned that earlier in the comments, and I have made those changes to comply with code. Thanks.
Thank you so much for this detailed and helpful video. Any thoughts on the efficiency of such a radon mitigation system, if I drill a hole in the HVAC room (right at the edge of the basement). I do have a sump pit with an ejector pump, however it is beneath the stairs in the very middle of the basement, so no way do drill there. My only concern is with the HVAC room location is that being at the very edge of a relatively large basement, it won't be able to efficiently suck up the gas and cover all that foundation. Since it is a finished basement, no way to drill somewhere else and then bring the pipe to the HVAC room...
Am I overcomplicating things, any ideas from JJ Central or folks in this community? Thank you!
In your situation, plan on drilling a hole in the slab itself but make sure that the sump pump is sealed with a air tight lid so you don't suck up conditioned air into the system. It will work great even if you have it in the corner of the basement. If your values don't change much, you can always add another hole in the opposite corner of the slab and connect the pipes together.
This is so clear and helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for the helpful video! My only concern tho is with cover the sump pump what happens if you get water in the basement?
If you have a surface drain that goes into the sump pump pit, then you don't use this method. Instead you just drill a hole directly in the slab and connect your 3 inch PVC fan into it.
Just FYI The shut off for the fan should be outside with the fan. Disconnecting means should always be visible from the device they are controlling.
Some one already pointed that out and I changed it to include the disconnect and a smart switch so I can run it on a schedule. Also updated the rubber connectors with PVC.
Newer perimeter drains are done inside the house. How do you seal above the drain where the new concrete meets the plastic/gap by the wall? Some type of tape? Otherwise, I can use the existing sump pit. Just use a flex sealant?
You need to use a flexible caulking like polyurethane caulk to seal the plastic lid to the floor and fill the wall gap.
Hi thank you for this explanation, I just got this house and has random, where could I buy all this materials, I went to home depot but they don have any of this materials .
Check the description, I listed all the materials. Just PVC pipe you need from home Depot.
Just make sure the sump pit is not connected to any outside drainage that are open to air. Because all you would do is pumping in outside air instead of depressurizing. Also, if the sum pit is connected to any drainage from appliances (Central AC, humidifier, water softener, etc) you can't use the sum pit without creating a back drift. Learned that hard way. In either case, forget the sum pit and pick a place to drill a 4.5 inch hole, remove dirt and gravel and use that point for radon pipe.
Good point, my sump pit is a stand alone single use system. Worked perfectly for me. Thanks for bringing that up.
@@JJCentral-DIY But what about the pipe that pumps the water from the pit to the outside? Isn't that open to air according to @nukestrom? My setup sound similar to yours, submerged pump, corrugated pipes under my concrete also going into the pit and I am wanting to install exactly the same system you did. Also, can the fan be installed in the basement instead of outside? Otherwise this looks totally doable!
@@c.a.n.4202 good point, sump pump drain has a one way check valve so draft won't enter the pit.
@@JJCentral-DIY just thinking more about it, as long as there is a level of standing water in your pit, then the outflow line from your submerged pump should always be filled with water correct? That would prevent any air being sucked inward from the radon fan wouldn't it?
Nice work. Looks like your outside fernco reducer band clamp is loose.
I noticed that while filming and of course went back and tightened. 😄
@@JJCentral-DIY nice. I am researching radon mitigation, my house just tested at 33.1 pCi/L. Going to have some companies come out this week, I had no idea my house had such a high number!
@@guidedbygreen1480 Most of the states publish general maps of radon levels in your area. That can give an idea of what to expect. If yours is showing high values then it is worth investing and trying out. Worst case you get a dry mold free basement.
Very neat idea and video! With that type of sump cover, how long would it take to dismantle, replace the sump pump, and reassemble? Also, where is your sump pump check valve?
The idea is to not dismantle at all. There is a glass window to monitor the pump. If I need to change the pump, I have two rubber sleeve disconnects and one of them is a check valve. It is fairly simple to service if needed. The lid is separate from the sleeve that is glued and bolted down.
Cna I mount that fan inside or does it have to be mounted outside? I'd love to get away from doing the conduit for power outside if I can help it.
You can mount it inside, but have to get used to the fan noise which hoestly is not very much.
How deep do you have to go if ya don’t have a sump pump and just drill down in the foundation?
Usually the foundation slab is 5 inches and then into the packed gravel. You are basically sucking the air from the gravel.
What screw did u use for that red siding ?
@@RicardoLandinginJr Mine is aluminum siding, so I used a metal to wood screw that is exterior rated and a dab of caulk. If you have vinyl siding you pre drill and use any exterior screw but don't squeeze the siding too much.
does it matter where n my basement I mitigate from? example, we have a 2000 sq ft basement, how do i determine if I can put it on the west side or east side of the basement. I want to bore the hole in the utility room on the west side away from the bedrooms, but will it mitigate through the whole basement?
Good question, it is literally a process of sucking air. So if you have any existing sump drain or under slab plumbing, then map that out and put the hole next to one of those trenches which maximizes the air pulled from where ever the French drain or plumbing was laid. If no drain pipes were installed under the slab then you put two holes and run the pipes from both to the fan. I would start from one hole and see if the readings go down significantly, if not put another hole in the opposite side of the house.
@@JJCentral-DIY thanks so much. last question is location. the spot I am looking at would come out of the house about 6 feet from the AC unit and 6 feet from the garage side door. any issue with this location since I am venting 12 inches over the roof line?
@@Saint_n_Soldier the code basically says away from windows, deck or balcony where humans can directly breath the exhaust. Ideally above roofline which is standard.
You're the man! Thanks for this video!
Very nicely explained! Thanks.
if sump is open system, runs around the basement but its open not a pipe, will sump still be useful? I guess no because I don't see how vacuum can be created in sump. Can also fan be installed inside instead of outside?
You are right, it needs to be a sealed system under the slab. Your best bet is to cut a hole in the slab and insert a PVC directly in the floor. Fan can be installed inside or outside. The fan link I have in the description is quiet enough to go inside. Thanks.
So you started the Radon system from an existing sump pump? Purchased this new lid and added the mitigation system to the sump pump? Is that correct? Great video and great information.
@@joshschiffman5671 yes, it works well as long as there are no leak points.
Thanks for the great video. Very informative. We have an active system now but just have one 3' hole in the basement floor. If need be I could buy the sump pump special cover and run another pipe from the cover to my existing radon pipe our builder installed when we built our house. We live in the US. Do we order these materials off of Amazon? Thanks.
Yes both the fan kit with the 3 inch adapter and the sump lid are sold in Amazon for a reasonable price. Measure the radon levels first to see if you need it. Some times you can just replace the fan with a more powerful fan and Dig the hole deeper and fill it with gravel to fix the problem. Good luck.
I posted the links in the description. Thanks.
Great job explaining, thanks
Also do you have to put a "hat" on the top of the pipe so that water doesn't get into the pipe?
You would make a 90 at the top and then end with a PVC termination cap mesh. That way water and squirrels don't get in.
amzn.to/3VGqsQQ
This video was very informative. Thanks for uploading.
Where is the condensation line
Super helpful video. Thank you!
maybe you should caulk the cracks around the wall to where the wall and floor meet.
Where do you get the radon equipment
Check the video description. Everything is linked.
Nice informative video. Thank you
Fantastic video! Thanks!
Did you have to get rid off your French drain? Would this work with sump pump that is located just outside the house?
Both scenarios are not compatible with sump radon system. You have to drill a hole in the slab.
@@JJCentral-DIY
Oh no. I was hoping it was doable. Thank you
Did you do any other sealing around in the basement? Also, can you link the model of the fan you used?
Stephen, the fans are based on the resistance and the porosity of the sub-grade materials from where you are trying to get flow to mitigate the radon. So the fan he used may not be the right one for your home. If there is clay, sand or naitive fill under the slab you will need a high suction low flow fan and if it is caused aggregate under the slab then you need a high flow low suction fan.
@@justinberard, thanks. I have 3/4 crushed stone under the house (newer construction), so I guess I'd need a high flow, low suction fan. That said, I was wondering if he had sealed cracks and any penetrations in or around the basement floor to reduce indoor air from getting sucked under the slab by the fan. 2/3 of my basement is already finished so I can't get to those cracks, but am focusing on sealing wherever I can.
@@stephencosta6373 Hello, could I have an update on your Radon mitigation? Were you able to get a system installed and what kind of results you have gotten? Thank you!!
@@PatrickWagz , I’ve had some other work to do in the basement and outside, so haven’t gotten the actual mitigation system in and operating yet... hopefully soon! Note, I am looking closer at Fantech’s RN2EC fan, which has adjustable speed control. I also have two separate foundation zones (separated by footers that are all pinned to bedrock), so I’ll need to treat two separate zones. Thinking on installing PVC valves at each suction point so I can adjust the suction from each area.
@@stephencosta6373 Thanks for the reply. Did you ever have the radon levels tested? What kind of levels are you at? Thanks for the fan model, I will check the specs on that. The adjustable speed control seems helpful. I too, may have to do separate systems due to my foundation being in sections. Are you in NY or New England with the bedrock being so close to the surface? Thanks again.
Great video, thank you.
Great video - thanks! Did your family's respiratory problems improve?
Yes it did. Also we invested in some air purifiers during the pandemic as well.
Great video!! Very good info!! So am I dumb to get the 125$ meter to test my basement, all bedrooms and shop spaces or just do the mail in tests? I like the idea of being able to monitor it over a week period to know for sure. I worry that the amount of traffic in and out of the spaces could throw off the mail in tests, if that makes sense. Furthermore 2 to 4 tests costs what the meter does. I also have a furnace and a heat pump style water heater draining into my sump hole how would one go about sealing those from pulling air or wouldn't that be a problem?
Meter is always a good investment. Lab tests are a snapshot of one time at one placement, whereas a meter can average a week long reading.
You can always sell the meter for more than half it's price after few months of use.
The condensation tubes usually have a one at check valves in the furnace pump, and I believe it will prevent air leakage when it's not pumping. Also the diameter of air displacement is far more than the possible leaks. When if it doesn't work on peak efficiency it should work enough to see reduction in radon.
@JJ Central well thanks for replying I am going to order the meter and go from there I appreciate you giving me your time. I am hoping for the best. Thanks!
Silly question, but does anything need to be added to the top of the end pipe to prevent animals from getting in? For example, nesting birds
Yes, a mesh cap is added and I point it sideways to prevent rain water from entering.
www.amazon.com/Raven-Termination-Stainless-Slotted-Condensation/dp/B01BW2VWG0/
Thanks. I think you’re the exception though, as most of my neighbors pipes appear to face straight up, and don’t have a meshed cap on the end
@@thumbnasiuminc4373 I don't see any code mandating a cap so most installations don't have it. The logic behind straight pipe is to let the "poisonous" radon air as high and away from the house as possible. I don't see a reason to let rain water trickle down the pipe and rust the fan etc. So Iam using a elbow fitting at the end.
Thank you - excellent video and instruction.
Thanks for the video!
How's that Radon mitigation system working for you now
Great job!
Great video! Thank you so much. I am in Canada and never heard of this problem until this week. Purchased a good monitor and bam! Can I ask what kind of health problems you noticed? I always blamed my coughing/phlegm and my son's on dust... but I know we have no allergies.
All of Radon related symptoms can also be attributed to allergies or other viral infections, so it is hard to confine it to just Radon. We experienced persistent coughing, fatigue, wheezing etc and actually saw a difference once the system was installed. Even if you are a non-believer, it still benefits by pulling the moisture and the damp air away from the foundation preventing mold and other issues.
Thank you, nice job and great video.
Is your fan running in your video when you are beside it? Based on your info a 3" pipe is enough for my install but I am having a difficult time making a final decision between 3" vs 4". I have read some info that suggest 4" might be quieter but it I guess it depends on how much and how fast the airflow ends up being. My sump pit is the main source of radon gas, all my weeping tiles come into there and my slab is ontop of limestone. I have ordered the same lid and will be doing the same install BUT the fan will be in the basement.
The fan is pretty quiet in my 3 inch setup. I can hardly tell if it is running.
@@JJCentral-DIY Thanks for the fast reply! Glad to hear that (I'm assuming you are saying that when you are standing beside the fan?) and great video. Here in Manitoba these installs are done differently due to the extremely harsh winters so the fans are installed indoors and the vents are just inches away from the home and varmint capped otherwise the moisture travelling through the pipe causes this --> imgur.com/a/Q6I16pX
@@c.a.n.4202 yes the fan is running during the video taping. You can see the manometer having pressure. That was a continuous recording from outside to inside. I did another install with the same fan inside and it is whisper quiet.
@@JJCentral-DIY Fantastic! Is that a RadonAway or Fantech? I've got a RadonAway RP145c on it's way.
@@c.a.n.4202 it's a radon away rp145 as well. Links of everything I used are on the description
Thank you
Great job! Thank you!
Would it be possible to get any links for the equipment you bought?
Links are posted in the description.
Excellent video...
Well done
Thank you 😊
dude nicely done and thank you
would I need a specific certification in order to do this professionally as a contractor? I already have a general contractor's license.
@Chris Collings If there is an opportunity for some one to create a certification, they would in United States. Of course there is one for radon as well. In fact there is one to just measure and test radon and there is one to install mitigation systems. Two boards offer that, Check out nrpp or aarst.
FYI...your system is non-compliant because you do not have a disconnect switch to the fan within 6ft.
Thank you for the tip, Even though I have a disconnect on the inside, I added another one right next to the fan.
Could I ask what year your house was built?
How many years did you live with the high radon levels?
Thank you!!
1970s house, bought the house three years ago. After few months the symptoms were noticeable on and off in family members. We always blamed it on allergies. Now I have a meter I can graph the radon level ups and down to see if the symptoms are coinciding with the timing.
@@JJCentral-DIY Thank you for the update. So, the radon meter you mentioned for $125... do you think it is pretty accurate? Did you ever perform one of those test kits that you mail away to the labs, to see if the radon values were similar? Thanks again.
@@PatrickWagz yes, that meter is pretty accurate. Many in the Amazon comments showed side by side with professional equipment reading similar values. I posted the links on the description.
Excellent. Thank you
Very informative! Thanks!
Thank sr. Very helpful.
Good work. Where did you purchase that lid and fan?
Mostly everything in Amazon, links are in the description.
First floor no basement
As long as you have access to the foundation slab, you can put one in.
Good video, I've had breathing problems for years. Hope it's radon lol, just kidding kinda.
only been 8 hours since i started up the monitor and I'm already reading 35.83... haha
Give it some time, it will average out. One week of measuring is ideal.
❤
As far as Radon exposure is concerned, all the fear and hype was initiated by a case that happened in 1984... I copy and paste from Wikipedia: "The presence of radon in indoor air was documented as early as 1950. Beginning in the 1970s, research was initiated to address sources of indoor radon, determinants of concentration, health effects, and mitigation approaches. In the US, the problem of indoor radon received widespread publicity and intensified investigation after a widely publicized incident in 1984. During routine monitoring at a Pennsylvania nuclear power plant, a worker was found to be contaminated with radioactivity. A high concentration of radon in his home was subsequently identified as responsible.[72]"
So, the guy who WORKED in a nuclear power plant, and who circulated in and out from there to his home every day, caused all this excitement and the ensuing regulations! He might not have followed decontamination protocols for his work clothes upon leaving, and thus carried these reactive particles into his home every day. The half-life products of Radon, which occur 3.8 days after Radon is emitted, can attach themselves to fabric or dust or other surfaces and therefor be transported. They are still radio-active, and therefor can cause radiation poisoning.
Also from Wikipedia: "Radon is a colorless, odorless, and tasteless[11] gas and therefore is not detectable by human senses alone. At standard temperature and pressure, it forms a monatomic gas with a density of 9.73 kg/m3, about 8 times the density of the Earth's atmosphere at sea level, 1.217 kg/m3.[12] It is one of the densest gases at room temperature and is the densest of the noble gases."
So... eight times the density of the Earth's atmosphere.... hmmmm .... pretty dense, I'd say. How come it can cross such thick barriers in homes, like concrete slabs? That does not sound very likely to me!
If you read the entire treaty about Radon, you also learn that it occurs naturally everywhere outside, in Nature, and there is is most at a concentration of , and I quote: "Radon concentration in the atmosphere is usually measured in becquerel per cubic meter (Bq/m3), the SI derived unit. Another unit of measurement common in the US is picocuries per liter (pCi/L); 1 pCi/L = 37 Bq/m3.[43] Typical domestic exposures average about 48 Bq/m3 indoors, though this varies widely, and 15 Bq/m3 outdoors.[74]" So, converted to the US unit of pCi/L, this gives us for inside about 1.3 pCi/L and less than 0.5 pCi/L outside on average!
It makes no sense to me that Radon should be more concentrated in a basement, where it has to penetrate a concrete slab to get inside the basement space, than outside, where there is no barrier impeding its emanation!
In conclusion, this is once more a bunch of hype, scaring people and last but most of all not least, a big money maker for the so-called "Health Hazard Remediation Industry"!
I'm glad I figured this out for all of you! Don't be fooled! Use your brain cells! Live long and prosper!
"this gives us for inside about 1.3 pCi/L and less than 0.5 pCi/L outside on average!"
---> Yup... correct, those are accepted as within safe levels :)
"It makes no sense to me that Radon should be more concentrated in a basement, where it has to penetrate a concrete slab to get inside the basement space"
---> True, if it is a concrete slab home. Many homes are built directly on Dirt, with zero barrier to the basement or crawl space. It is those homes which are susceptible to easy penetration by radon rising from the earth, which varies from area to area.
In your notes you also mentioned the part about some of the by products which attach to dust and fabric, and it is those with which people might be concerned.
Thanks for posting that info!
Thanks crazy how they will charge thousands for this
My home average is 12.5
Been having breathing problems, stuffy nose etc since we moved in here 3 years ago
I don’t know why no one has talked about this b4
Are all these comments from all fake A.I. or BOT accounts? I’m gonna go out here on a Limb and say tht over 3/4 are from fake accounts. This is the new us in the world of Tech nowadays. We grab us some A.I. to make us look a tiny bit relevant to a situation.