IGDesigns doesn't need to, he's so high T his girlfriend doesn't even notice what's going on with his hair because she's lusting over him 24/7. A low T Minoxidil taking beta like yourself wouldn't understand but that's ok, not all of us can be the powerful gigachad sigma god that IG has risen to.
IGDesigns doesn't need to, he's so high T his girlfriend doesn't even notice what's going on with his hair because she's too busy lusting after him 24/7. A low T minoxidil taking beta like yourself would never understand but that's ok, we all can't be the powerful sigma gigachad that IG has risen to.
Cool build, Im hunting down oil leaks on my k24 as well. I had a huge leak coming from a crack in my VTEC solenoid so I replaced it with a new one and that's good now but I now have to replace the oil pan, hope you get your things sorted out.
New favorite RUclips channel. I just bought a K24a2 with intention of building it and swapping it into my zzw30 and now I have someone to copy. Thank you very much.
My dad has a fine-adjustable torque wrench like you showed us here - it measures in inch-pounds so you can dial in the torque spec exactly for lower torque specs. Very cool tool. We just used it when replacing valve cover gasket and lift bolts on my 2ZZ. Your closer of "oh, and it also still leaks oil" was the chef's kiss. After doing the valve cover gasket: my 2zz is still leaking. There's a small gasket for what I think is called the No.1 Ventilation Pipe which goes into the head near the timing chain cover - and of course that gasket doesn't come with the valve cover gasket kit. So we just put the old gasket back on and hoped for the best. Pretty sure that's where it's leaking from now. Even if it's not an engine swap like you're doing, even if it's just maintenance on an older car, the rule still holds true: it's always something 🤦♂ Good luck with the next engine pull.
These are great, as someone who has hopes to import an MR-S and Kswap it at some point, this gives me some insights on whether I'll want to tackle it myself or get it done by a shop.
Loving these videos man. It's giving me a good heads up on some issues before starting my swap. If you could show exactly where you beat the firewall in it would be helpful so I can just get it over with before installing the motor. It's either that or cut up the firewall to make an access panel but that's just so much more work.
All across the top where you see you see the firewall sink in forwards the cockpit. Also down where my alternator was contacting. Turns out my aftermarket alternator replacement is larger than the oem one I got in which explains all that contact. I’d honestly just not run the rbc intake manifold, not worth all the bashing. If you avoid those two things you should be clear.
@@IGDesigns Thanks. I have an RBB and a PRB I could use already but also thinking of going with a Skunk2. I know the PRB is the easiest to fit but really looking to keep midrange power usable and from what I can tell the RBB may be better for that. It’s overwhelming the amount of options for these K Series haha
I believe mine is from the oil pan. It was sitting in the garage and leaked, only the bottom was wet. Probably bad Hondabond job. The chase continues, good luck with yours.
Shame about the issues you're facing. I recently completed a K24 conversion my own ZZW30 recently and your early videos has helped me with my project! I have heard issues with fitment and seal with the canton oil pan, so that might be the issue with the oil leak. I would have thought the alternator can be removed with the engine still in the car? Should be accessible from underneath the car.
That's what I've been told online is that you can change it without taking out the motor. I've already pulled it because I got more things/changes coming. Glad the videos help, that's what they are for.
It's definitely possible for it work well. I would not spend any extra money on more performance and instead fight the issues I show. I wish I swapped in a stock motor. Then bought another junkyard K24 and built it on the side while refining the car.
Great videos man, I first saw your budget video, and now stumbled upon the project car problems, the narration and truths are great for another spyder owner trying to patriciate in the kswap struggles, cept I'm trying to make mine Cali legal and I gotta do it all alone so its triple the headache
I’m working through issues with my own k24 mr2. Glad to see that I’m not the only one with the jankiest coolant line routing just around the shifter linkages.
I went to Autozone with the stock one cut and asked them to match it the best they could, then cut that into what I needed. I show the part in the previous video, it had part number "71827"
Could I suggest for future fire wall beating rather than hitting directly with the hammer in that awkward spot, try to use something like a chisel or just a cylindrical rod so you’ll be more precise? I recon it will make it look a little better in the end. It might not be the greatest of help to your situation but every little helps. I hope you find some peace with your engine so you can continue with this project and spend more of your time enjoying it. Good luck!
Whenever I do anything, I make sure to show the bag with the part numbers in my video, so you can always Pause and check. 4th Mount on Chassis comes from MAP. Transmission Side: 50840-S6M-010 Hardware: 90168-S5A-000
Your girlfriend is going leave because of the bald spot starting to show on the back of your head. Minoxidil bro
😮
IGDesigns doesn't need to, he's so high T his girlfriend doesn't even notice what's going on with his hair because she's lusting over him 24/7. A low T Minoxidil taking beta like yourself wouldn't understand but that's ok, not all of us can be the powerful gigachad sigma god that IG has risen to.
IGDesigns doesn't need to, he's so high T his girlfriend doesn't even notice what's going on with his hair because she's too busy lusting after him 24/7. A low T minoxidil taking beta like yourself would never understand but that's ok, we all can't be the powerful sigma gigachad that IG has risen to.
Hey! I have a suggestion! You could donate your hair in support of the channel instead of leaving rude comments!
Lol I love your videos, man. Excellent quality filming, satire, informational. 10/10
If you were not so strong that bolt would have never broke
Oh... And it also still leaks oil...
Pretty much..
Cool build, Im hunting down oil leaks on my k24 as well. I had a huge leak coming from a crack in my VTEC solenoid so I replaced it with a new one and that's good now but I now have to replace the oil pan, hope you get your things sorted out.
It's a constant battle. I believe mine is coming from the oil pan as well. I'm going to take it off and reseal it.
New favorite RUclips channel. I just bought a K24a2 with intention of building it and swapping it into my zzw30 and now I have someone to copy. Thank you very much.
omg this is fighting between the car hope you will win.
I hope so too
My dad has a fine-adjustable torque wrench like you showed us here - it measures in inch-pounds so you can dial in the torque spec exactly for lower torque specs. Very cool tool. We just used it when replacing valve cover gasket and lift bolts on my 2ZZ. Your closer of "oh, and it also still leaks oil" was the chef's kiss. After doing the valve cover gasket: my 2zz is still leaking. There's a small gasket for what I think is called the No.1 Ventilation Pipe which goes into the head near the timing chain cover - and of course that gasket doesn't come with the valve cover gasket kit. So we just put the old gasket back on and hoped for the best. Pretty sure that's where it's leaking from now. Even if it's not an engine swap like you're doing, even if it's just maintenance on an older car, the rule still holds true: it's always something 🤦♂ Good luck with the next engine pull.
I SIGHED SO HARD when you had to pull the motor out. FUCK THAT. Great video
Need new videos
Working on it, got some Miata updates then MR2 updates after that. So they are in progress!
Great video
Glad you're progressing & not letting it stop your enthusiasm,
💀
If it’s out, might as well mild port the intake and exhaust ports and match with the gaskets. Should gain hp up top.
Unless I missed something, why not use a UV dye and a light to track down your oil leaks? It's sooooo much easier.
These are great, as someone who has hopes to import an MR-S and Kswap it at some point, this gives me some insights on whether I'll want to tackle it myself or get it done by a shop.
Constant Tension Bands to prevent leaks vs using C clamps
I really need to pull my engine out the mr2 but it’s so much work :(
Loving these videos man. It's giving me a good heads up on some issues before starting my swap. If you could show exactly where you beat the firewall in it would be helpful so I can just get it over with before installing the motor. It's either that or cut up the firewall to make an access panel but that's just so much more work.
All across the top where you see you see the firewall sink in forwards the cockpit. Also down where my alternator was contacting. Turns out my aftermarket alternator replacement is larger than the oem one I got in which explains all that contact. I’d honestly just not run the rbc intake manifold, not worth all the bashing. If you avoid those two things you should be clear.
@@IGDesigns Thanks. I have an RBB and a PRB I could use already but also thinking of going with a Skunk2. I know the PRB is the easiest to fit but really looking to keep midrange power usable and from what I can tell the RBB may be better for that. It’s overwhelming the amount of options for these K Series haha
Thank you very much for these videos.
Im right there with you. Still leaking oil by the oil cooler. Time to do the dye test
I believe mine is from the oil pan. It was sitting in the garage and leaked, only the bottom was wet. Probably bad Hondabond job. The chase continues, good luck with yours.
damn cant wait for the next video, helps us who attempt the swap
I love your videos cause it makes me feel better about my never ending project car (and oil leaks lol its a honda)
Are u putting a 2jz motor in there
Shame about the issues you're facing. I recently completed a K24 conversion my own ZZW30 recently and your early videos has helped me with my project!
I have heard issues with fitment and seal with the canton oil pan, so that might be the issue with the oil leak. I would have thought the alternator can be removed with the engine still in the car? Should be accessible from underneath the car.
That's what I've been told online is that you can change it without taking out the motor. I've already pulled it because I got more things/changes coming.
Glad the videos help, that's what they are for.
Watching this makes me think if going k spyder is worth it. I hope everything goes smooth.
It's definitely possible for it work well. I would not spend any extra money on more performance and instead fight the issues I show.
I wish I swapped in a stock motor. Then bought another junkyard K24 and built it on the side while refining the car.
Great videos man, I first saw your budget video, and now stumbled upon the project car problems, the narration and truths are great for another spyder owner trying to patriciate in the kswap struggles, cept I'm trying to make mine Cali legal and I gotta do it all alone so its triple the headache
Good luck!
I’m working through issues with my own k24 mr2. Glad to see that I’m not the only one with the jankiest coolant line routing just around the shifter linkages.
Yeah, I hate it and would love to improve it.
What did you use for the thermostat hose?
I went to Autozone with the stock one cut and asked them to match it the best they could, then cut that into what I needed. I show the part in the previous video, it had part number "71827"
Could I suggest for future fire wall beating rather than hitting directly with the hammer in that awkward spot, try to use something like a chisel or just a cylindrical rod so you’ll be more precise? I recon it will make it look a little better in the end.
It might not be the greatest of help to your situation but every little helps.
I hope you find some peace with your engine so you can continue with this project and spend more of your time enjoying it. Good luck!
Can you please tell me the part numbers for 4th engine mount?
Thank you.
Whenever I do anything, I make sure to show the bag with the part numbers in my video, so you can always Pause and check.
4th Mount on Chassis comes from MAP.
Transmission Side: 50840-S6M-010
Hardware: 90168-S5A-000
@IG Designs I didn't think of that.
Thank you. How do you like the power of k24.
@@danlong9757 It made it a much more serious car which I'm still deciding if I like or not to be honest.