Hella triannual repaint! 1954 Dodge military Power Wagon
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- The last five days have been devoted to body work and paint on the rig. Hella has a spray-bomb paint job which requires a repaint every three years. This time around the stars aligned for me to do the work at Paul's shop in Poulsbo. The weather was ideal and having his shop to work out of was too! This is definitely the best job I have ever done of painting my truck. I dealt with a number of rust issues and lots of details before masking and painting. It's been a big job, but very rewarding in the end 😁 I had hoped to have all the hand painted signage done before uploading this vid, but there just wasn't time. I'll post a lil update when that work is done too!
#militaryvehicle #dodgemseries #dodgem152CDN
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The rig looks great again! Wow, that is a lot of work. Nice big project. Obviously worth it! And your personal note at the end was inspiring and a beautiful reminder to everyone to do what you want- it's in your power.
Mom's badge made me cry! Everything looks so beautiful!
Hers is the only piece I don't refresh. I will let it patina all it wants! Though, I did put a layer of clear coat on it this time around.
I loved this video, and wow Hella looks AMAZING! Great job!! Take care of yourself and rest after this big project!
Wow!! Im impressed!! Looks Great!
Thanks!
Its great weather for painting too! Im painting my '68 Wagoneer with white roof and a "sand/khaki" lower half. DIY is definitely cheaper and more rewarding!!
Sounds like a great combo 👍 Shoot me a pic when you're done. Wagoneers are rad.
Saw your truck near the rite aid and the barbershop and had to check you out. Paint job looks great!!
Thanks!
👏🏼👍🏼
I saw yoy at Safeway today I walked in front while eating candy
I believe I saw you and your crew 👍
Richard you can use panel bond instead of screws
I did consider that and it would look better. But, things weren't uniform enough for that and I had no way to keep it clamped.
@@jackdawlove the steel is thick enough on these things to be pretty forgiving when it comes to welding. Just did a bunch of rust repair and hole plugging on the cab of my '52 last weekend. Way easier than patching up an 80's Toyota where you blow through as many new holes as old ones welded up. Just cut the rust out in as simple a shape as you can, cover the hole with masking tape stretched tight and draw right along the inside edge of the hole. Transfer the masking tape to a piece of sheet metal, stick it and cut it out. The patch will almost drop into place without modification and just enough gap to sink a welding bead into.
A great tool is the $29 Harbor Freight needle scaler. My coworkers hate my cheap tool ethos, but I have been running mine for over two years now without breakage or failure. It'll chip away the loose paint, open up all the rust holes you didn't know about and tear away the weak metal exposing the holes. My coworker insisted I use his fancy Snap On but I found it was too large and cumbersome. Ended up needle scaling the whole underside of about six vehicles now plus dozens of axle housings, springs, fuel tanks, control arms, driveshafts, crossmembers and even a few engine blocks.
I've been using a 20 gallon 120v air compressor with an aftercooler made from an automatic transmission cooler and an electric fan setup off of an AC to DC converter on the load side of the contactor. The bottom port of the cooler runs through a self draining moisture trap before the line whips uphill back into the tank- coming back out of the tank into a manual drain catch can into the supply line to a small Zendex gravity feed spot blaster (and an inline moisture filter) and running the medium Black Diamond blast media from Tractor Supply. So far I've done both axle housings, the transfer case and transmission with it. Lots of reloading the hopper- but it gives the compressor a chance to keep up. Really nice for ripping paint back from the body rot holes too and scouring the metal around the repair area.
Best way to mask wheels- a pack or two of Bicycle playing cards. Just stick them into the joint between the bead and the rim. Overlap them like a pinwheel and put a small piece of tape to join one to the next, Then drape and tape newspaper behind like a collar. Scuff and spray the wheels then zip the cards out of there before the paint dries and makes the cards stick.
@@Booze_Roosteryou rock 🤘 Thank you for all the awesome tech and advice! It is in the vault for the future 👍
are those single piece wheels? They don't look exactly like the Budd split rings in the video.
Those just Budd centers welded into another barrel?
Yessir! There's a guy I know in The Dalles, Oregon who will cut your centers out and weld them into tubeless rim blanks. It's a game changer to run radials on these rigs! Re-using the original centers looks so right on these rigs versus an aftermarket wheel.
@@jackdawlove Its a good idea. The trick of it is to find the correct barrel size. Did something similar with a Volvo 240 I wanted to lift and put mud tires on. They have a weird bolt pattern (5x108) and 14" wheels which really limits your selection. ended up with a free set of Volvo V70 steel wheels with a disgusting FWD offset. I zipped the welds and punched the barrels off, flipped them around, welded up the old valve stem hole, drilled a new one, tacked the barrel in one spot and spun them on the level hub while eyeballing a plumb line. Tacked it in another spot, pulled the wheels off and zipped them up. They were fantastic on the road and even better at a Gambler 500.
Another tip for you- forget about balancing weights. Now that you're tubeless you can balance those things on the cheap with airsoft bbs or dynabeads. www.innovativebalancing.com has a tire chart for the amount of weight each tire should take. I've used airsoft bbs in every truck I've owned and managed to get ridiculous mileage out of mud tires on the road with no discernable vibration.