Operator training will be the big, big, big determinant of safe operation. Looks like the operator is the anti-kickback mechanism, & as always the anti gullet crowding mechanism as well. IIWMI'D paint the no hands EVER zone & maybe add laser no hands zone striping for when material obstructs the paint. We had that paintjob on every tool in shop class & it worked with sophomores, might work with adults too. Maybe.
The radial saw should use a sliding miter saw blade, the tooth hook angle doesn't make it want to grab as much and come towards you. Just an fyi as it's something i had learned from an in depth look at them. I use one with the blade guard as yours had at the beginning of the vid, if i cut a 4x4 I raise the saw , cut 2 inches, flip it and cut the other side. That way i dont have to do any modding. I dont cut them that often so i dont mind the extra step.
That’s a great saw. I have the same one in my shop and have used it almost 20 years. Until you have one you know know how useful it is. I hear all the noise about the safety, safety is in the hands of the user. I would use it!
You wanna blade guard for an RAS that'll make it safe enough for a kid? Easy peasy. Have the guard stand about 4 feet from the saw to make sure the kid doesn't approach. When the kid asks the guard can fish around in his pocket, pull out the remote to the stepper motor, and hand it to the kid long enough to let him cut whatever's toggle-clamped down with the remote. I recommend a guard no less than 6'2", 220. Some Ju Jitsu or Judo training wouldn't hurt neither. (I grew up using one of those finger-flingers. With a bloody WOBBLE BLADE at times. The only surefire way you nerf em is you don't TOUCH em)
Hi Andrew, Interesting choice of saws, but I'm sure the back story goes deeper than most suspect (isn't that always the case???). After reading on what caused most radial arm saw incidents (trust me, those weren't accidents ... they were preventable), your use-case seems to be directly in the strong point of the radial arm saw. I expect to see more safety features revealed in the next video! Thanks for the inside view of your design and fabrication process. Regards, R
At 2:06 - is that smaller hole a relief for the shavings from the hole saw? I had never thought of that before, curious on your views of how effective it is (I'm assuming so since you did it ;) )
I have that exact problem and never occurred to me to go to a bigger blade to cut 4x4's. brilliant ! Well if that doesn't earn a subscription ..oh wait.... Subscribed !!!
Nice idea although your power is greatly reduced. Best to have a commercial 12 if you do a lot of cutting . I have a Delta 12 inch and I just ripped a 4x4 diagonally for corner wood crate supports .Also if you get a 12" and worried about safety and need the money you can sell your table saw . I've been wood working for 40 + years and the most fingers I've heard lost were on a table saw and a band saw . OSHA was just here in my shop and second that comment 😎
Looks pretty good, seems reasonably safe. Only suggestion I'd make would be that moving the dust port to the side would allow you to make it much thinner. Not sure how that works out with your hose routing.
It looks about as safe as a radial arm saw can I guess. There’s 2 things I would personally add though: some bright lights, and a small window. I’m not sure how much difference that would make in practice, but I really like being able to see a little with my mitre saw
I don't think you used enough screws to hold the shroud together. I'd use a double row of screws and add some Simpson Strong Tie Deck fasteners with 3/8 inch allthread to secure both sides thru and thru every 4 inches. Otherwise you have done a great job keeping hands safe. Just don't charge for the shroud and have your neighbor sign a defense and indemnity agreement to hold you harmless. But your basic ideas for a safety shroud for a radial arm saw are light years ahead of what the industry currently offers. Very impressive.
Like others have said, your engineering skills are not in question, but I would relegate that to a sole user machine. Since it is modified, you should be the only user and assume all responsibility. I can only imagine the legal SH*T-storm you would face if someone got hurt using it. Also if the saw is made for a 10" blade , is the speed cutter speed of the 12" not increased by 20%, are the blades rated for the increased cutter speed? To many safety concerns, to allow someone other than the modifier to use!
Is there something about the use case that needed a RAS with all of the mods you’re making or is it just a case of them having a RAS and asking you to use that?
The guard looks great and I would use it. Safe is a relative term. Is there a need to slow the cutting speed because of the larger diameter, like with a large router bit?
Innovative mod, sure looks sturdy. I used to have my crew build hundreds (thousands actually) of custom pallets up to 60” X 144”. All with a 10” chop saw. Instead of 4x4s we would double up 2x4s. Lighter, stronger and much safer to cut. On the 12’ pallets we might add a 4th stringer. I love my RAS too, but those liabilities are scary and career threatening.
I love the look of RAS but there sketchy. I’d personally add a way to clamp the wood down. So then there’s no reason for anyone to have arm/hand near the blade
The blade is covered more than the $700.00 Makita miter saw at work..... As I understand, it is the climb cutting that is a bigger risk Can anything be done to mitigate that risk?
I guess we need to wait for the next video but it's difficult to give feedback without knowing how it's going to be used and what actions the Radial Arm saw offers that can't be performed by a Sliding Miter saw. I've taught Boy Scouts and other non-woodworkers how to use woodworking tools and because of the way that the blade slides overhand I would never let anyone else use it in my garage and I couldn't wait to get rid of it and replace it with a Table saw and later a Sliding Miter saw.
An accident waiting to happen maybe!? A fast spinning blade releases from the spindle... lookout. On the other hand. how many accidents happen that involve fast spinning blades detaching from the spindle. Regardless, do not let that neighbor's kid anywhere near that saw. Also, what are the legal implications for you for retrofitting a piece of equipment that it wasn't originally built for?
Any dumb idea for a video....... not counting the blade vs the motor but, it's an unsafe use for a proper guard. I can see why RAS have a bad reputation.
If I think through what the blade guard is actually designed to do (keeping body parts out of the blade) it seems your design should work fine. I agree with wolph that adding a clear plexiglass window at the front would allow the user to keep track of where the blade is in space. You could even add a lens cursor to the window. That said, the irrational lizard part of my brain isn't comfortable with the fact that the shroud is made out of wood. Especially if my kid is using it. But the reality is that the blade isn't going to shatter or come flying off the arbor - its purely psychological. And since teenage boys are invincible, I'm sure "the kid" won't have any problem with your wooden shroud.
Isn't it a shame that just the fear of liability is enough to stop innovation. Where can we get back personal liability and responsibility? Soon you will need permission to do anything..it makes me sad.
Interesting build, who assumes responsibility and liability, you or the owner. OEM radial arm saw are dangerous as heck. A modified radial saw!!!!!!!!!
I wouldn’t want any of my high school kids to use a radial arm saw, nor would I choose to use one myself with such better options available. I wouldn’t want them, or myself, to even be in the same room as a modded radial arm saw when it was running. Think twice about letting the neighbor’s kid use this.
Operator training will be the big, big, big determinant of safe operation. Looks like the operator is the anti-kickback mechanism, & as always the anti gullet crowding mechanism as well.
IIWMI'D paint the no hands EVER zone & maybe add laser no hands zone striping for when material obstructs the paint. We had that paintjob on every tool in shop class & it worked with sophomores, might work with adults too. Maybe.
The radial saw should use a sliding miter saw blade, the tooth hook angle doesn't make it want to grab as much and come towards you. Just an fyi as it's something i had learned from an in depth look at them. I use one with the blade guard as yours had at the beginning of the vid, if i cut a 4x4 I raise the saw , cut 2 inches, flip it and cut the other side. That way i dont have to do any modding. I dont cut them that often so i dont mind the extra step.
I have no doubts about your engineering skills, but I hope you have good liability insurance.
Andy, I love it and I think it will perform great, I have confidence in you! It gave me some ideas as I am building a center console for my bus.
That’s a great saw. I have the same one in my shop and have used it almost 20 years. Until you have one you know know how useful it is. I hear all the noise about the safety, safety is in the hands of the user. I would use it!
looks cool. I'm exited to see the radial arm saw in its final form
I'm going to be curious how it cuts with 20% more SFPM and if the torque of the motor is enough to keep up or if you'll have to use a light touch.
You wanna blade guard for an RAS that'll make it safe enough for a kid? Easy peasy.
Have the guard stand about 4 feet from the saw to make sure the kid doesn't approach. When the kid asks the guard can fish around in his pocket, pull out the remote to the stepper motor, and hand it to the kid long enough to let him cut whatever's toggle-clamped down with the remote.
I recommend a guard no less than 6'2", 220. Some Ju Jitsu or Judo training wouldn't hurt neither.
(I grew up using one of those finger-flingers. With a bloody WOBBLE BLADE at times. The only surefire way you nerf em is you don't TOUCH em)
Hi Andrew,
Interesting choice of saws, but I'm sure the back story goes deeper than most suspect (isn't that always the case???). After reading on what caused most radial arm saw incidents (trust me, those weren't accidents ... they were preventable), your use-case seems to be directly in the strong point of the radial arm saw. I expect to see more safety features revealed in the next video!
Thanks for the inside view of your design and fabrication process.
Regards,
R
At 2:06 - is that smaller hole a relief for the shavings from the hole saw? I had never thought of that before, curious on your views of how effective it is (I'm assuming so since you did it ;) )
I have done that myself, and it does help the cutting a bit. I'm not sure, but I think I first learned the trick from Marius Hornberger
I have that exact problem and never occurred to me to go to a bigger blade to cut 4x4's. brilliant ! Well if that doesn't earn a subscription ..oh wait.... Subscribed !!!
Nice idea although your power is greatly reduced. Best to have a commercial 12 if you do a lot of cutting . I have a Delta 12 inch and I just ripped a 4x4 diagonally for corner wood crate supports .Also if you get a 12" and worried about safety and need the money you can sell your table saw . I've been wood working for 40 + years and the most fingers I've heard lost were on a table saw and a band saw . OSHA was just here in my shop and second that comment 😎
Looks pretty good, seems reasonably safe. Only suggestion I'd make would be that moving the dust port to the side would allow you to make it much thinner. Not sure how that works out with your hose routing.
Hi Andrew. Thanks for the informative videos.
Did you calculate the increased outer rpm & find a 12 inch blade that could handle the speed?
No I just checked the blades max rpm rating to make sure the motor wasn’t spinning faster than that
I love my RAS it can take a 12 inch blade. I built a vac system into the fence for mine and it works great.
hello andy! was just curious, when you make relief cuts for bending, do you eyeball it or do you use a formula for the space between cuts?
Hey weird question what kind of hammer were you using? I would love to find one to buy.
I have the same question
Looks fine, but I would have just scrounged up $15-20 and bought a used 12-16" RAS on craigslist 🤷
It looks about as safe as a radial arm saw can I guess. There’s 2 things I would personally add though: some bright lights, and a small window. I’m not sure how much difference that would make in practice, but I really like being able to see a little with my mitre saw
Awesome!
Thanks!
I don't think you used enough screws to hold the shroud together. I'd use a double row of screws and add some Simpson Strong Tie Deck fasteners with 3/8 inch allthread to secure both sides thru and thru every 4 inches. Otherwise you have done a great job keeping hands safe. Just don't charge for the shroud and have your neighbor sign a defense and indemnity agreement to hold you harmless. But your basic ideas for a safety shroud for a radial arm saw are light years ahead of what the industry currently offers. Very impressive.
As usual a fantastic innovative solution, The only thing I have a problem with is your choice of screws (as a Canadian, I hate Phillips screws).
Are those Philips or Posix screws?
Like others have said, your engineering skills are not in question, but I would relegate that to a sole user machine. Since it is modified, you should be the only user and assume all responsibility. I can only imagine the legal SH*T-storm you would face if someone got hurt using it. Also if the saw is made for a 10" blade , is the speed cutter speed of the 12" not increased by 20%, are the blades rated for the increased cutter speed? To many safety concerns, to allow someone other than the modifier to use!
How will you see the blade???
I would use it, it is safe!
رائع جداً في انتظارك في القادم وكل جديد
Brilliant, Andrew! Really well done! 😃
I believe it's going to be more than enough!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Is there something about the use case that needed a RAS with all of the mods you’re making or is it just a case of them having a RAS and asking you to use that?
They were on a tight budget and that saw was what they found
I like it! Interesting dust collection.
The guard looks great and I would use it. Safe is a relative term. Is there a need to slow the cutting speed because of the larger diameter, like with a large router bit?
For the tips of cuts they need to do, this is probably fine. I like that you backed up each joint with screws.
Are we going to see it in use?
yes, in the next video
Innovative mod, sure looks sturdy.
I used to have my crew build hundreds (thousands actually) of custom pallets up to 60” X 144”. All with a 10” chop saw. Instead of 4x4s we would double up 2x4s. Lighter, stronger and much safer to cut. On the 12’ pallets we might add a 4th stringer. I love my RAS too, but those liabilities are scary and career threatening.
That turned out nice! What blade do you have on your bandsaw?
I love the look of RAS but there sketchy. I’d personally add a way to clamp the wood down. So then there’s no reason for anyone to have arm/hand near the blade
The blade is covered more than the $700.00 Makita miter saw at work..... As I understand, it is the climb cutting that is a bigger risk
Can anything be done to mitigate that risk?
A strong slow arm is best, and prayers!
I guess we need to wait for the next video but it's difficult to give feedback without knowing how it's going to be used and what actions the Radial Arm saw offers that can't be performed by a Sliding Miter saw. I've taught Boy Scouts and other non-woodworkers how to use woodworking tools and because of the way that the blade slides overhand I would never let anyone else use it in my garage and I couldn't wait to get rid of it and replace it with a Table saw and later a Sliding Miter saw.
Andrew I personally love my Radial Arm Saw…. But there are a lot of good questions below 👇 just be careful !
An accident waiting to happen maybe!? A fast spinning blade releases from the spindle... lookout. On the other hand. how many accidents happen that involve fast spinning blades detaching from the spindle. Regardless, do not let that neighbor's kid anywhere near that saw. Also, what are the legal implications for you for retrofitting a piece of equipment that it wasn't originally built for?
Any dumb idea for a video....... not counting the blade vs the motor but, it's an unsafe use for a proper guard. I can see why RAS have a bad reputation.
If I think through what the blade guard is actually designed to do (keeping body parts out of the blade) it seems your design should work fine. I agree with wolph that adding a clear plexiglass window at the front would allow the user to keep track of where the blade is in space. You could even add a lens cursor to the window. That said, the irrational lizard part of my brain isn't comfortable with the fact that the shroud is made out of wood. Especially if my kid is using it. But the reality is that the blade isn't going to shatter or come flying off the arbor - its purely psychological. And since teenage boys are invincible, I'm sure "the kid" won't have any problem with your wooden shroud.
Isn't it a shame that just the fear of liability is enough to stop innovation. Where can we get back personal liability and responsibility? Soon you will need permission to do anything..it makes me sad.
Interesting build, who assumes responsibility and liability, you or the owner. OEM radial arm saw are dangerous as heck. A modified radial saw!!!!!!!!!
I wouldn’t want any of my high school kids to use a radial arm saw, nor would I choose to use one myself with such better options available. I wouldn’t want them, or myself, to even be in the same room as a modded radial arm saw when it was running.
Think twice about letting the neighbor’s kid use this.