Musings on Radial Arm Saws
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- Опубликовано: 26 май 2017
- I get a lot of questions about my radial arm saws one of the big ones is why do I have so many? I think what it comes down to is I just think they look cool. I don't know that they're any better than a good compound miter saw I just like the way they look. I also think you get more for your money buying the older tools. I go over safety then talk about blades and the negative hook angle. I go over each saw and what I use it for and how much I paid for it. I talk about jerking the blade on smaller size and smooth cut of largest size. This is due to the strength of the motor and the momentum of the blade.
Some of the tools used in this project
Radial Arm Saws
MBF: vintagemachinery.org/photoinde...
MBC: vintagemachinery.org/photoinde...
GP: vintagemachinery.org/photoinde...
Cantilever Clamps: amzn.to/1TJmAFx
KANT TWIST Quick Acting Fixture Clamp: amzn.to/1TJn2DP
Freud 8-1/2-Inch Saw Blade ://amzn.to/2qtNTfT
Oshlun 8-1/2-Inch Negative Hook Saw Blade :amzn.to/1TJmTQJ
Amana 16 Inch Saw Blade: amzn.to/2n34xVN
Freud 10 In. Super Stacked Dado: amzn.to/2gs6lkz
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Honestly Frank, I could sit hear and listen to you talk about your old tools all. day. long.
I had a furniture-making business - I had a radial arm saw, a bandsaw, a planer-thicknesser and a lathe. With those machines and my hand tools, I reckon I covered all the bases. The bandsaw was indispensable, but I used the Shopmate radial arm saw ALL the time - it was SO versatile! I probably did all the things you mentioned in the manufacturer's claims - and, I still have all my fingers!!
Having a few radial arms saws is also so convenient in terms of swapping blades
My buddy has one, and it truly is badass. Just a gorgeous, incredibly smooth machine. Very precise.
Well it did rip that board...right out of your hands! HAHAHA. I'll show myself out.
That right there was funny I don't care who you are.
I did that with a molding head cutter. Was like a missile going across the shop and through the divider wall. Learn quick not to do that again. Lol
Feeding the board in from the wrong end isn’t a fair way to judge whether it’s safe to rip on a RAS.
+1 for Pat Newnam. Well said Pat.
I really could have used this video 25 years ago. Thank you, Frank.
I grew with the old DeWalt radial arm saw and was taught all the things you mention. I'm a little more comfortable with them than the table saws although I have a healthy respect for what they can do with wood and flesh.
Thank you for always making really good videos frank. You are a huge inspiration!!
I'm a woman..a barber stylist retired. Still very young 😂 I can't believe I sit here with my ginormous cat on my lap and watch you and all these tools and things you make every single day. I binge watch you instead of Netflix now. This is much more informative and entertaining. You are so funny too
Thanks, Frank. I have my dad's MBF that he bought new in about '58, a Craigslist early 1030 from about 1960, and a 5 horse, 14" GE, single phase. I grew up on the little one and did most of the crazy stuff that they showed in the books...cut semicircular grooves in faces of boards, ripped untold feet of lumber--inrip and outrip, even broke down plywood with the sheet vertical, resting on the floor. It all works if the saw is aligned and you're careful. Only ever had one bad kickback, on a little workpiece, and it was a missile.
I also have a carcass of a 16", TEN HP, long arm GEX. It was abused and somebody may have paid for that, as the arm end cap is brazed together where the carriage once burst through on its way out the end of the arm. The stop bolt was missing when I got it; probably was on the day all hell broke loose, too. I'd hate to have seen that, but the advantage of underpowered MB-whatever's is that they hardly have the torque to run away like that. They generally stall.
The faint "ow" followed by the halloween store severed hand flying across the table had me in tears...
Thanks for this post, Frank. Now I don't feel so alone. Currently, I am down to four RAS, all sharing the same bench and each dedicated to a single purpose: the biggest and most powerful strictly for 90 crosscuts with gauging fence; one for dado; one with inexpensive blade for chopping up trash; and one set up like a shaper with a pair of blades spaced to the desired thickness of a tenon. On very large, heavy stock, cutting tenon cheeks by moving the saw carriage rather than with a sliding table feels very safe and effective. Of course initial level setup of the table and a custom guard are a must.
wow, I like it
I had an old Delta in a small shop at my last home. Due to room, I saw it as a luxury. When my shop expanded, I became enamored with Jay Bates' miter saw station. In hindsight, I wish I had created a set up like yours, but that'll be for a shop down the road. BTW, there isn't a video of yours that I watch that I don't get distracted by your shop. You did a really nice job with that.
This is my new favorite woodworking video. Those old DeWalt radial arm saws are awesome. Totally understand your love of them, especially for dados.
Frank, your videos are always great. I love the fact that you mix up topics - sometimes your building something and other times you're just walking is through your thoughts on something. It keeps it very interesting as a viewer when I never know what I'm going to get!
Keep up the great work!
Nice. Thanks Frank. I just think that suction fence you made for them is splendid.👍🏼
As a long time woodworker myself, I remember my dad using a R.A.S. like the ones you show. Recently, an elderly neighbor, and good friend, at 90+ yrs. old, gave me a similar model MBC that he had abandoned many years ago. I currently have it in my shop, awaiting as a retirement project, when I will restore and continue to use it. You are an inspiration for using older equipment. Thanks for the video. Steve
Lee Valley published a book some years ago called "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw". After reading that and adjusting my DeWalt, I got much better crosscuts.
Very informative, Frank. Thank you for the great videos.
My very first and still favorite, although not only. (Craftsman circa 1960's) Thanks for taking the time to talk about a very useful tool that can be dangerous if mishandled. I love the warning about don't ever place a body part on the cut line. I have told my Grandkids that this saw will not cut you if you don't have your fingers and hands where the blade moves.Thanks again.
I use my radial saw to make dados in wide stock, then I rip it on the table saw to make two pieces that match exactly. It's great for bookcases.
+Gary Myers perfect
Using a negative hook blade is a great tip! I will put one on my saw today. Thanks! This is a great video.
You mentioned the "versatility" of the radial arm saw. I wanted my first power saw to be a radial arm saw just because of this feature. I had no money at the time for a lot of power tools. The saw was advertised as a boring machine (horizontal and vertical) and even as a router. That was almost 50 years ago. I had owned my saw for a couple of years and my work had progressed to some cabinet work (graduated from "just boxes"). I had the machine in vertical mode and locked and was routing a slot. Instead of cutting the wood was "grabbed" by the bit and in an instant my right index finger was routed. I kept the digit but lost some of the nail and learned a valuable lesson. Routing belongs to a 10,000 to 25,000 RPM machine not a 3750 RPM saw motor. Some lessons, unfortunately, have to be learned the hard way--at least for me. Love your shop and your projects and of course your videos. Thanks.
Thanks Frank, well worth watching as always. I like that the timing of your video uploads so often coincides with my Saturday or Sunday morning coffee. Your collection of working vintage woodworking equipment is inspiring and important as it preserves both the equipment and a window into a time where machinery was designed and built to last for generations, not months. Many thanks for sharing.
I heart your radial arm saws Frank. :-D We both acquired a GE from auction around the same time, and mine needed some love as well. But now I love that 880 pound beast.
I confess I did wonder why you had so many but then again, I think I decided a while back that it was because more saws = good :-D Thanks for sharing your musings, Frank.
they just keep showing up to the party lol
Frank, I wish I had seen a video like this in the early 80's when I worked at a local lumber yard. We had an 18" DeWalt without a return spring. One morning, I had ripped a 1X12 and then stacked the 2 pcs for a crosscut. I did not notice that the blad did not go all the way to the back of the track. When I pushed the power switch (which was mounted on the wall), the saw blade climbed over the boards and into my left arm!!!! Someone above was looking out for me as the blade got hung in the board and when the blade stopped it popped the breaker. I had to unwind my arm. I was very lucky that day. To this day, I still have full use of my arm. So my advice is to put a return spring on all radial arm saws.
Now THAT was helpful👍
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@Kyler Morgan Instablaster =)
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you should make this a series about all the different types of equipments in your workshop, now that is a series i would love to watch :P
nathann10 me too!!
I paint a red patch on table 3" on each side of blade. I use a "stiff arm" technique to prevent self feeding. A sharp blade is really important.
Robert a blade with a negative hook angle with stop self feeding.
Mike West It can still happen at least on every saw I've ever owned (3). Power & sharp blade, and feed technique are key.
My 12" DeWalt RAS was built in December 1947. Got it for free from a lumber yard that was going out of business. I've had it and an 8" for three decades, and they both run like new, and they are much quieter than my chop saws.
Just like you, I only use them for various types of crosscuts, nothing else.
A tool is only as safe as the guy using it, is careful and knowledgeable.
Hi Frank. I bought my radial arm saw in 1964. It's a Craftsman and is still going strong. I had to change the bearings on the motor about 25 years ago and I changed the switch about 30 years ago. It needs another tune up which I plan to do this summer. The work that I've done with this tool is phenomenal. I agree that some of the attachments can be somewhat scary. So I limit it to items less frightening, for example a sanding disc or sanding drums.
You mentioned ripping a piece of wood from the wrong direction. I've never done this, but my brother did. It threw the wood across the room and went right through the drywall about 20 feet away. You're right. It's a great tool, but care and attention are prerequisites.
I have had my 10 inch Dewalt radial arm saw since approximately 1969, I bought it from a neighbor friend. I used it and loved it for many years, but now I use a modern sliding bevel chopsaw. Still have my radial arm saw.
I used to think I had too many radial arm saws. Now I realize that I don't have enough.
yup
How many you need = how many you have + 1
just like clamps. LOL
So very true. Though for clamps I think the number (+1) would be a lot higher ;)
Another excellent video. Thanks for your content. Very helpful, especially the part on hook angle and safety.
Oh good. now I'm on Craigslist. :)
Just got one and looking forward to getting it up and running. Thanks for all the great videos Frank.
Thanks for this Frank. I have my father's DeWalt which I used growing up (most like your #3 I believe). I rebuilt it about 20 yrs ago and it doesn't see much use but I'll never get rid of it. As a kid I used it once with a DeWalt profile cutter - just a piece of steel twisted 90 degrees on each end with an ogee profile cut in it used in "ripping" configuration. A bit of a clencher, but it worked:)
Enjoy the thought you put into describing of your approach to the shop and building. thanks for being you.
Good video, good info. One note: I think the reason the blade tries to stop during a cut is because of the direction of rotation of the blade. Because the downward force of the blade is on the near (cutting) side, the blade is trying to "clime" out of the stock. The radial arm prevents that so the blade is caught in between and gets stuck so it stops. This tends to, among other things, throw the breaker switch or fuse for the circuit supplying power to the saw. Your technique of "back and forth" movement of the blade helps mitigate that tendency to climb. Another technique that works is to pull the blade through the stock very slowly and steadily.
I remember when I was real young (back in the 50's) my Dad bought a DeWalt Radial saw. I think he might have kept it for less than a month. He made the mistake of just putting a piece of wood on the table, without holding it up against the fence, and the saw ripped the piece of wood out of his hand and jerked his hand into the blade and nicked him. It wasn't bad but it scared him enough that he got rid of it. I have a DeWalt chop (not the compound model) saw and I've always remembered that incident and always remember to make sure whatever I'm cutting is up against the fence and held very securely.
My dad has big Craftsman radial arm saw he bought about 45 or 50 years ago. He's used it for nearly everything over the years, ripping included. I've always been impressed how much can be done with it. When I worked in a wood shop we didn't have any because of time constraints of switching the setup of the saw for different types of cuts. But for a homeowner such as my father it was a great saw for the money. But now he's selling it to a young (20's) woodworker nearby. So I won't see it anymore, I'll miss it tho....
Frank, great insight into your radial arm saws. Perfect for a rainy Memorial Day here in PA. Thanks!
Thank you so much for another wonderful video! I really love the older saws and tools. They are really heavy and usually do a wonderful job at any task. I particularly like the 5HP DeWalt, I'd love to get my hands on one. Like you mentioned some people ask ridiculous prices for these older DeWalt saws. I think you should have at least 4 radial arm saws on every wall of your shop!
Lovely video! Im not a wood worker myself but love learning new things. Thanks, Frank!
In my tiny little hobby shop, I have two and find I use both. Great video!
I literally LOL'd at the chopped off hands. Grew up using them at home and in school shop. Like any tool they can be dangerous without proper training. No more dangerous than any other high velocity spinning blade
Thanks for the video, I have only used a radial arm saw a few times, but I may get one and use it and see how it works for me. Your videos are always inspiring and very enjoyable. Thanks again
Love it Frank- thanks for the detail expansion of the saw teeth
Back in the mid 80's i use one of these on my first job. Loved it...
Just when Saturday became boring, this video shows up in my sup box. Just perfect!
Thanks Frank! My neighbor just gave me a model 925E. I'll be setting it up soon but needed some reassurance.
I really liked this video. I'd love to see more like this in the future, just on your reasons for having different pieces of equipment and how you use them. I know there's other channels that do this sort of thing, but it's cool to see your perspective.
i have an old school craftsman r.a.s. and rarely use it mostly because it's in my garage LOL and secondly there's no blade guard for it so I'm a little Leary about using it but alot of good info !thanks for sharing👍 and alot of saws holy crap..
Joe basement woodworking hey! it sounds like we have the same radial arm saw from Craftsman, mine is a Sears/Craftsman. If that's the case, I just thought I'd let you know that that saw was recalled because it didn't have a blade guard and people were getting hurt. you can look it up online and if you want they'll send you a box and postage and all that and if you send it back they'll give you $100. Just a little food for thought
Thanks Frank, of all the awesome projects I’ve watched from you and all my other subscriptions - this is the first comment I’ve left. I just wanted to say the I learned something interesting beyond the scope of your video! I was excited to see “Lancaster, PA” on a few of the name plates. I’m a Lancaster native and I never knew that part of the tool company’s history nor the city’s and your video inspired me to do some research. Thanks for all of your great great content and your teaching!
Thanks Frank. I adopted your multi-saw approach after I acquired a 10" blade Rage multipurpose saw (thank you for the idea). I was going to get rid of my 70's era Craftsman 10" blade RAS but decided to mount them side by side. I can get almost 12" of cross cut depth on the RAS and the SCMS feels unstable at that reach. The SCMS can chop down on a 4x4 while I'd have to raise and lower the entire arm of the RAS. I can set up the SCMS for angles and bevels faster, so these days I put a nice blade in the RAS for cross cuts and use the SCMS for everything else. perhaps a nicer 12" SCMS would render the RAS useless, but I got it for $30 and I've been using it for a decade. One of my best tool purchases.
I have a DeWalt Model 500274 9" model that was my dad's, not sure of the vintage, but probably early 60s, possibly earlier. The top of the arm has a much gentler curve so it does not have the aesthetics of the older models. He had a molding head for it (I still have it) that is absolutely terrifying! I will never use it. I, like you, only use it for crosscutting. It is very handy and is fairly precise. Frank, thank you for the palm against the handle suggestion. It takes quite a while for the blade to stop when shut off, which is something else to be very aware of.
MR. HOWARTH I FEEL THE SAME ABOUT OLDER TOOLS THAT HAVE THAT TYPE OF LOOK OF THE PAST I COLLECT ALUMINUM BODY CIRCULAR SAWS AND THEY STILL WORK AND THEY ARE JUST BEAUTIFUL AND POWERFUL LOOKING ,YOUR WORK AS WELL AS YOUR SHOP IS AN INSPIRATION THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS.
What a lucid discussion! Thanks.
I have one of the low power ones set up next two my 12" chop saw. As you say, both have their strengths.
Yet another brilliant video. Thank you for sharing.
Great discussion. Very informative and insightful!
Great information. I also have a Dewalt Radial Arm saw that i bought about 40 years ago, 3hp., 12". It was my only saw for a lot of those years. After buying my table saw i started using the RA for mostly cross cutting. I took the time to set it up so that it cuts square, therefore I don't need or own a sled for my table saw. It is so much easier to cross cut with the RA saw, IMO.
Thanks. You' ve helped confirm the two main reasons I have for eventually buying a large RAS: 1) cross cutti ng rough sawn lumber and 2) cutting dados. #1 is the most important.
On the topic of safety, it is important to read and understand the instructions and warnings for any machinery, including the warnings on the machine itself.
At 2:58 you talked about the dangers of some of the "crazier things you can do" with a radial arm saw, and then went on to describe how you attempted to rip a piece of wood, but was unsure of which direction to rip it in, and ultimately ended up ripping it from the wrong direction, putting yourself in a dangerous situation.
And this is exactly why people need to take the time to read the instructions and warnings.
It specifically tells you on the saw (3:55) in red capital letters "CAUTION - Do not rip or plough from this end". Someone has even put some additional red paint on that side to ensure that it can easily be determined which side to rip from.
Tools are generally only dangerous when used improperly.
I really like the educational videos. Not sure this is for everyone, but for someone who is just getting started with woodworking this is gold. I really enjoy your vlog and look forward to future post
im right there with you i have 3 set up and parts from another one in boxes. i don’t have the nice old ones i have the middle age ones. 1511 and 970 type. they are so quiet compared to a chop saw and such a pleasure to use and they make me happy. i got all of mine for less then 75. i’m just getting a vfd to run the 3 phase one i have. I like the bigger 2 ph ones i have as well.
Thanks for sharing Frank. I acquired an MBC model a couple of years ago for $50 and have a love/hate relationship. I agree with your comments and appreciate someone who knows what they are doing saying what I thought was just me not knowing what I'm doing, they are great for coarse cuts. I've tried a few times to make mine more repeatable, but just haven't had any luck. It was good hearing what your thoughts, I think I'll stick to the basics with mine and not explore the more advanced 'features'.
I do use mine for ripping quite a bit because I don't have a table saw (need to free up some space). I've used it to cut half sheets of plywood and it does a pretty fair job if I don't feed things too fast. I had to go through the 'which way do I feed this' also and repeated your wood flinging incident. Fortunately, it's very difficult to stand beside the saw.
My wife doesn't like it when I refer to it as the 'saw of death'. The one piece it is missing is the blade guard, , really need to make a cover for it .....
4 years ago, I cut mi finger while doing some miter cuts... I was distracted... So I change my radial arm saw to a sliding miter saw and it works well.
Greetings from Mexico Frank!!!
I gave this a thumbs up before even watching!!!!!!!!!
Big Mike is talking i tried but im missing a couple. ya know... radial arm saw and all
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge and advice. I have found it very useful.
David in the UK.
Great video Frank.
Lots of information.
Thanks.
Just bought new looking old Delta. First Radial I bought. Thanks for the Tutorial.
Very informative. I have wondered about purchasing a radial arm saw, but I have a nice chop saw so I never saw the need. Now I don't need 6, but I will keep an eye out for one now that I know the benefits of owning one. Thank you.
I never had a shop teacher, but came to a similar conclusion on how to draw the saw across the work. My technique comes from canoeing. I have the strong arm virtually locked, so the saw can't climb forward, it is bone on bone. And I use rotation of my shoulders and torso to complete the cut. You have to set your feet appropriately.
The possibility one might cut an arm off with the radial arm, (maybe it would be better if it was called a "radial track saw"), is basically the same as exists with the bandsaw. There is a reason BSs are used to break down meat. Yet most people seem pretty comfortable with BSs, and yet they are the most likely saw to usher you into the emergency. Positive attitude and skillful use, rule.
I am a big believer in the idea one only uses saws for their safe use. Table saws and routers are other do all tools, but in a world where a lot of us have picked up cheap tools from china and deindustrialization, I don't push tools, the '50s are a long way in the rear view mirror. I have my great uncle's radial track saw, and it was the only stationary power tool he owned. I don't have any idea how many I have... So horses for courses.
I did once do a project with my dad where we used his RS to rip a bunch of 1" pine. We had a Ryobi saw, and we moved it outside. It is not super powerful, or scary. Some of the issues around tools have to do with their power. You can survive things done on lightweight tools that will swat you badly if attempted on huge powerful models. Anyway, it was fine, with two people. It was a little kludgy. And the dust was all over the place.
Speaking of two people. You have to set boundaries. Nothing goes south faster than people reaching into the cut zone to "help". The feeder on an RS or a TS has to have a strategy for what happens in the case of kickback. Be out of the way, and your feed tools need to be such they won't hit you on the way by. The second guy is just there to receive the stock. He should not try to help the basic cutting, or bad things may some day happen.
I had an old Dewalt that I owned when I was returning to woodworking, it was given to me and that price was right at the time, and I had used them back in college, so my comfort level was okay. But I found that while it was great at crosscuts, it lacked in flexibility of tasks for me. Changing it back and forth between 90 degree crosscuts and angled miters just took too long, and I didn't have the flexibility of setting up multiple saws for repeat operations. So when I got enough money, I passed it on to a friend who wanted it, and bought a Bosch miter saw. I don't regret either decision.
Frank, another fun video - yes, fun... I love vintage tools and I consider myself a 'collector'. I'm looking for a couple RASs (Radial Arm Saws) myself.
Thanks again for quality video content!!
I just got one the other day for 10$ and now I need to build a base and a few other things for it to be able to use it. Love your shop by the way.
Great video as always. You have an amazing shop that most of us could only dream of having. It's nice to hear more about your set up. The project videos are wonderful but it would also be nice to see more of these videos too.
I've always been curious about your two table saws that share an outfeed table.
I'm sure you have plenty of insight regarding shop layout & shop tools that would be fascinating. Just off the top of my head, your behemoth bandsaw, benefits of the new cnc over the old one (what have you modified or plan to), future plans for you shop, 20/20 hindsight thing you wish you'd done differently, your history in woodworking, etc.
good to hear a different perspective on using them other than they are dangerous and have no place in the shop.
I like when you "pop" in. I am easily amused.
I have an Italian made DeWalt 1251 (10"), bought it new in the 1980's with router and dado attachments.......still have it. It was my first stationery power tool and I did both cross and rip cuts on it for decades. If you rip in the correct direction and use the anti kick back pawls it's safe but does create a lot of dust. Now I just use it for cross cutting planks down to size. It's underpowered really so I also use the rocking cutting action to prevent jamming the blade in the wood or take less depth cuts. Still my pride and joy on the shop even though not used as much. The best book on RAS is from Mr. sawdust.....well worth reading it.
Cheers
Some things about radial arm saws I've learned. Just based on my own observations, not to be taken as a fact:
1.) Modern cheap high quality blades are made for miter saws, and they must be compatible with miter saws, meaning all the new blades sold in big box stores, have anti-kickback teeth called "Shoulder teeth" in between each cutting tooth, so there is no need for a negative hook angle anymore.
2.) Negative hook angle is something someone invented a long time ago, as a solution for overly aggressive early blades without the shoulder guide teeth. Chainsaws have shoulder teeth called "rakers" in between each tooth, and if you file the rakers down, you cannot use the saw because it will kick so hard when you engage the cut. Buying a Diablo blade, means you don't need a negative hook angle, because they are one of the many blades that have the anti-kickback "cut blocking" raker teeth.
3.) If you are using a very expensive furniture grade saw blade, made in America, like a Forrest brand blade, it will not have any shoulder teeth. It's not clear why they remove the shoulder teeth from the expensive blades, but I suspect it's due to the possibility of the shoulder teeth causing accidentally tear out of the material. Beware that expensive blades, could potentially cause a runaway climb due to the blade having no cut limiting blunt raker teeth.
4.) I believe ripping is far safer than crosscutting on a radial arm saw. This is contrary to popular opinion. But the popular opinion is dead wrong. That's because people have gotten used to using a radial arm saw for crosscuts, and so they have never actually performed a single rip cut. But when you study the design, a radial arm saw setup for crosscuts, is the most dangerous tool ever invented. Pulling a blade towards you on a ball bearing carriage, with the motor aggressively trying to drive the blade towards your body, is perhaps the single worst idea that man has ever conceived. Yes, It's very fun, but inherently extremely dangerous, possibly fatal.
5.) There is no inbuilt mechanism of safety in crosscutting, unless you have a modern Craftsman or Rigid saw with a hinged plastic blade guard that covers the wood completely.
6.) In rip cuts, there are inbuilt safety measures which prevent catastrophic injury. A rip cut being difficult, does not mean that it's dangerous. Something being difficult does not make it inherently dangerous. Crosscutting is very easy, but also extremely dangerous. The opposite is true for rip crutting on a RAS. Rip cutting requires a little more forethought and planning, but the major safety concerns (being cut) are completely eliminated when the blade is set in a fixed position, during a rip cut.
7.) During a rip cut on a RAS, the carriage is no longer sliding around freely, the blade is locked into one position, it cannot move. Thus the blade cannot accelerate and move towards you on it's own, and even if there is an accident, the wood material is ejected AWAY from the blade, pushing your body and hand away from the blade in the event of a kickback.
8.) Rip cutting can cause injury from a straight line kickback. Standing out of the line of the material, in case of a kickback, would eliminate the major danger in a rip cut. But the possibility of having the carriage suddenly accelerate towards your hand, is completely eliminated during ripping. The constant fear of having your hand in "the path of the cut" is no longer a concern, because there is no way the blade can reach you.
9.) In rip cutting, the guard actually does something, as you adjust it down to cover the entire blade. In the case of crosscutting, the blade guard is often set so high, that it really only functions as a fancy dust shroud.
10.) Table saws are easier to use for ripping, but have catastrophic safety problems during a kickback. Radial arm saws are more cumbersome to use and a little more tedious to setup, but do not have the dangerous capability of a severe life threatening kickback that a table saw has. That's because the material cannot jump up onto the blade, and be ejected upwards towards your abdomen or neck, like a typical "frisbee kickback" on a table saw.
Thank you for the long description. It's good to know.
I had no idea that you had so many of these amazing saws. I would too if I had the room. I think they're an incredible bargain. Like you, I fell in love with the look and design of these saws. I honestly think they're a thing of beauty. I'm amazed at just how smooth and relatively quiet my saw is.
I disagree with you about the precision of the cut when cross-cutting. With a table saw, you're at the mercy of the miter gauge. With the old DeWalt RASs, you're able to fine tune the angle using the set screws at the back of the arm to make the saw cut perfectly. I took a little time tuning mine and it cuts an absolutely perfect 90. You're also able to make perfect cuts on a long piece, which would be difficult on a table saw. I was amazed at just how easy it is to adjust these saws to get them to make perfect cuts. The engineering on them is incredible. It's so easy to make precise cuts on this, I make my mark, put the side of my blade along my mark, move it back, and then turn it on and watch the magic happen.
Please keep making videos on your saws. I can't get enough of them. I really admire and appreciate how much you value and love your saws. I'm so glad that you took the time to discuss selecting the proper blade. So many people do not do that and they have a bad experience as a result, which makes them poisoned on radial arm saws as a whole. You demonstrating these wonderful machines the way you do will hopefully teach your followers an appreciation of these wonderful machines. We really need to keep these off the scrap heap. They're just too valuable.
Thanks for explaining the jerky movement when cutting 👍
In an effort to find a way to ask you why you don't seem to have a power miter saw, I came across this video. I'd even forgotten I'd seen it before. But, all my questions are answered. Thank you.
Another great video Frank, your shop insights/philosophy videos are just as interesting as your project ones, keep them coming! As a beginner who is building my shop and also starting a family I wonder if you have done (or would consider doing) a video on your approach to shop safety/education/rules for your kiddos. I think it is great that they get to help out and have their own projects sometimes, and am interested in how you go about including them/encouraging their interest in a safe way.
Ok!😂 at 3:18 I actually jumped and my heart skipped when you fed it in the wrong way before I realized it was just a reenactment! 😂 people jump in scary movies. I jump when I see people do the wrong thing on power tools and equipment! FAR scarier than any movie!😑
Great video! Now pls do one on why you have 6 full-size cabinet table saws. jk😊
I would like to add that in my search for a radial arm saw I read a lot of ads on CL for saws that had recalls on them. The CL prices were about double the recall average of $75.
Interesting video. Important content. Love the visual embellishments!
I use a DW1251 raw which is newer than those and I also find its the first to cross cut with to rough size. I did have a cross cut chop saw which was stolen so when I replaced it I went with a radial arm saw so it not so easy to steal. As for ripping on the saw I have done it a few times but my favourite past time. Keep up the great videos I know this is an older one but still worth watching.
I concur with what Frank has said. Great video! I also fed a piece in the wrong direction using a molding set. I have a better understanding of this piece of machine. Versatile when used properly. Still use it.
I got a 1970's craftsman 10" RAS at a garage sale recently for $125, with a nice Forrest blade on it too haha...I quickly realized it isn't a substitute for my miter saw, which i still use a lot, but it is still very versatile...for instance doing half lap joints...the ras is absolutely perfect for doing those...and 16" of capacity is hard to argue with vs my small chop saw....
I really like how you teleport around the shop :)
Good info. Especially the information about the blade tooth angles (which is something I never really paid attention to. I was just recently donated my first radial arm saw. A really beautiful and sturdily built Craftsman. I think it dates to the 1970s. I need to make a new table top for it. I plan to use it for fairly accurate 90 degree cuts (my current table saw sucks).
The compound miter saw is great because it can be thrown into a pickup and used where ever there is AC power. When in the shop try putting a stacked Dado in the miter saw. Thanks for the great information.
No build, no problem. Very enjoyable content as always. Almost a shining-esque sawblade tang transition at 7:57.. goes with the dry horror of 2:15 haha
Lol at the “ouwe” then hand flies in 😂
Adding the year they were made would be interesting to me.
Props for the Alien reference. That's the first thing to pop into my head whenever I see a shot of your saws. ;)
Thanks for sharing. So thoughtful.
I guess I always thought the jerky motion was you trying to prevent the blade from grabbing. Thanks for this, I learned a lot.
Thanks for the info Frank!
Thanks, Frank. Very interesting.