Great tip once again as this demonstrates to what I refer to as the proper "time, temperature, airflow, and overall technique" in regards to successful rework, not heat per se. Keep up the great vids! This technique even works well with connectors on flexcable that I've had to use several times at my shop.
That was epic. Another subscriber here. I would love to see you do console repairs i know its probably low hanging fruit for you but with your expert knowledge and teaching manner i am sure it would be an instant hit!
Great video Justin awesome technique thx, i tend to just use my preheater to harvest fpcs recently they slide off perfectly and need only the slightest touch of hotair
I work with 300ºc on iphones FPC with great success, that samsung pcb will require less heat, that silicone mat also works as bottom heater once hot air put that mat hot. Other alternative for PFC and mics are heat from bottom if possible, or use a preheater
Yes, the thermal mass of the Samsungs is a different beast for sure. 300 is def a solid spot to do it at. I appreciate the view and comment, hope to see you in the comments again in the future!
Wow I like your websites for selling your product of those microsoldering… I can’t wait until my payday on August 1st I may will wanting order those electric tools for starter basic step by step cuz I am not experiences but learning fast anyway… thank for your link that I saw it.. I love how your websites selling those product is good deal price for EU,, but do you shipping those to USA as well?, let me know okay Justin… smile thank brother
I’m new on the soldering job. I was trying soldering lcd FPC connector on iPhone 12 Pro Max motherboard. I removed the old broken FPC, cleaned the area and was trying to reball the pads eventually I ruined three pads as the soldering wire created large balls which wouldn’t remove from the board so I scratched them with the iron and pads were removed. Why when I go over the pads with the iron the actual solder wire not sticking on the pads and creating iron balls all over? Is this board done?
I'm struggling to get the solder sitting nice and neatly on the pads when doing a similar task. I'm using leaded, plus flux, plus a bent tip. I don't, however maintain contact with the board like you do and move in circles. Is that the secret or is it more? Thanks in advance for your help. I've subbed by the way 🙂 Ed
The biggest thing it seems would be that you're not transferring enough thermal energy into the board, go back and watch through my 101 and 102 playlists, I bet you will knock it out of the park. The short answer though is that you need to use the biggest tip possible for the joint at a proper temp, if you need to turn it up for a specific job. sometimes you gotta do that. I usually try to work as cold as possible, while still maintaining control of my work. You can always keep adding heat, but if you turn it up too high you can't take the heat away and you can damage pads if you're using an iron. Also, another secret, add hot air in your other hand =) it will augment the board's temp overall in that area so that it cannot absorb the heat from the iron as easily. Hope all this helps. good luck in your journey FTLOG.
Great vid buddy, i have a request for something i really need to see u with asap, the protected ic's sam's and apple's how to left them off and how to deal with them! can u put that in your future plans please! Thanks once again
Hello can you show us how we can solder lcd fcp connector on Samsung Galaxy tab 4 10.1 T530 or similar devices ? I really appreciate your advices and your videos very helpful! Thanks for your all videos ! Best regards from turkey !
The key to knowing the anwser yourself is in watching my microsoldering 101 - 102 playlists =), but just to give you a more direct answer. Amtech 559 flux and 63/37 solder will work just fine =) Thanks for the question, view and comment!
I try to solder the fpc of galaxy a21s but the comnector wont bound fully with the board. All contacts are under the connector. All temperatures tried from 180 to 350.
When trying to tin the pads after taking off the fpc connector and getting it ready for the next connector, my solder doesn't want to stick to the pad and only slightly covers some pads, so when I hot air it there isn't enough solder to make good connection with the leg of the connector, any suggestions? Thanks, great videos!
Sounds to me like u need more flux and not enough thermal transfer from your iron to the pad one way around this is to use a bigger ball of solder on the tip = more surface area and mass to transfer heat to the pads , Myself i use preheater you also want to make sure there is no corrosion on the pads
@@cormacpyper thanks for the reply. I think the flux I'm using isn't the best quality so that might be part of the problem. I used a bigger tip with a bit more solder and seemed to give me a lot better coverage!
Are the pads highly oxidized? If your getting some but not all they could need a little scratching on top to clean off more oxidation. But as Cormac said as well, might need some more/better flux as well. Did you purchase an iron set or just specific tips?
@@TheArtofRepair some of that pads seem to be oxidising quickly when trying to tin, but I believe that's down to the poor quality flux I'm using, I'll have to get a better quality one. As far as the iron goes, I have a thermaltronics t9000s, I have a couple of different sized chisel tips, will have to invest in some other types too.
Really hope you reply but, I have an iPhone 6s Plus (screen was attached while phone was on and it sparked) and I replaced the screen and I the display shows picture and all that but it’s unresponsive to touch, does it need an fpc replacement??
Hey there Johny1220, it could very well be that something was damaged, but at this point you would need to do a microscopic inspection to verify and create a proper repair plan. Thanks for visiting the channel!
When the board will suck the heat out of the part you're trying to work on. If the board is already pre-heated, the part will heat up quicker. If you don't pre-heat, all the heat will keep going from the part you heat up, into the board... and the part won't heat up properly.
How can I find which FPC connectors I need for a project? I've tried to gooble the sizes and types with no luck. I have a Samsung phone project I'm planning and they look like the one in this video, but several sizes. I need to order both male/female, to make piggyback sandwich adapters for the FPCs.
Half of this machines airflow of 120 units is 60, so yes :) I try to just give info like that bc most of these units have the same output. Just not the same measurements. So half just made it easier 😅
@@TheArtofRepair Yeah no, I get why you said it that way. I was just a bit in disbelief, because I usaually blow all components away when I have that high air flow. But it totally worked. I soldered some JAE FA1004SA1-R8000 connectors to my new 3DS XL with 100 airflow on my Quick 861DW and 340°C. And it was beautiful. I could keep the ait outlet on the connector for a full minute with it being completely undamaged. I didn't use a nozzle which made things better...
@@TheArtofRepair Yeah, I'm currently a student at university, but it's not very fulfilling. I am learning things but it's very theoretical and many things I won't be able to apply anywhere. Because I already did an apprenticeship at a company I had a lot of practical experience already. So buying broken things off of ebay and fixing and reselling them helps me to stay balanced. At the company I didn't do much hot air work though, so I have some catching up to do.
Amtech 559 they have a new v3 that’s nice :) only buy from official sellers. It’s heavily copied and inconsistent. And the v2 might be counterfeit. Some cool videos out there on the subject if you want to go look also 💪
I mean, if your just doing it for fun sure, you might wreck the board. but if you actually intend to do this professionally i wouldn't say its a solid idea. Best to buy the gear needed so you can do it properly.
re-alloy to change the allow on the motherboard to something else, so from whats on the board, Lead free ROHS solder to 63/37 Tin/Lead solder =) to Re-Alloy
@@TheArtofRepair I removed successfully But while fixing new one, even on low air it's flying away or it moves from its position and pin shifts to another track.. I am thinking to put a small layer of glue below the connector..stick it and hot air it! Is it good to do so? Thank you for your reply 😎🇮🇳
@@saikiranshiny i mean if theres flux there on the pads where you put the connector, the flux should hold it where it needs to be. And if at 0 air speed its blowing things away at this point maybe your using a pinhole hot air nozzle
@@TheArtofRepair Oh,Thank you sir.my station has a minimum speed of 1 .i can open and reduce the speed of air..And should i use 136 c Flux paste for this?..because 1883 is hard to melt and high temp.may hurt the plastic?
@@TheArtofRepair your really annoying okays makes your vids unwatchable for me. stop doing that and work on your communication please. vids are good otherwise.
@@konradschaubert5520 i sugguest you find another channel, i am who i am and the way i communicate is how iv always been and will be. I make videos for FREE. so if you would like custom videos exactly how you want me to communicate let me know and ill send an invoice over and i can make it happen and be super short and dry for you.
@@TheArtofRepair no worries its just me being hypersensitive. and though i really like your content i am just sad i can’t watch em because of that. Good luck
Best tutorial on microsoldering by far.... Thank you so much
This comment made my day! Thank you! Hope your soldering journey is going great 💪
Dude you absolutely rock :D you changed my life and understanding for micro soldering - honestly you are the best :)
I mentally subscribed second time.
This comment really made my day Andrey, glad to have you as a double subscriber, infact my first one.
Video after video, Justin picking up some momentum !
Fantastic video Justin
Thanks for leaving a comment and watching my video Gino!
Great tip once again as this demonstrates to what I refer to as the proper "time, temperature, airflow, and overall technique" in regards to successful rework, not heat per se. Keep up the great vids! This technique even works well with connectors on flexcable that I've had to use several times at my shop.
FPCs made easy via Justin video again! Ta dah! Way to go J man!
That was epic. Another subscriber here. I would love to see you do console repairs i know its probably low hanging fruit for you but with your expert knowledge and teaching manner i am sure it would be an instant hit!
tbh, i hate console repair, XD Seems like I do tons of extra work, just for people only to want to pay 30$ for the repair. lol
Thanks man, I really love ur videos
Right on bro! I appreciate the view and comment, hope to see you in the comments again in the future!
I like the parts where you pound the desk and the mic-amplified boom effect rumbles through my headphones. ;)
its ASMR if you turn it up loud enough hehe.
Thank you seriously valuable channel...I couldn't subscribe fast enough.
Nice! Been learning more than years of useles school :D
Hey Justin thanks for a great video. I like your relaxed style of teaching. I also have subscribed to your channel as well.
Very nice! A lot is on the way, I know I haven’t posted awhile but your coming in at the heel of something cool! See you again in the comments soon 💪😎
Thanks!
Great video Justin awesome technique thx, i tend to just use my preheater to harvest fpcs recently they slide off perfectly and need only the slightest touch of hotair
Wow, that was excellent job!
I work with 300ºc on iphones FPC with great success, that samsung pcb will require less heat, that silicone mat also works as bottom heater once hot air put that mat hot. Other alternative for PFC and mics are heat from bottom if possible, or use a preheater
Yes, the thermal mass of the Samsungs is a different beast for sure. 300 is def a solid spot to do it at. I appreciate the view and comment, hope to see you in the comments again in the future!
Nice !
Question: using the hot air station wont damage the lens of the microscope or melt any component ?
You'll get big, doing good.
I hope so! But more than that I just hope that the subs I do have are able to take things away from my videos and learn =)
Thank you very much
Wow I like your websites for selling your product of those microsoldering… I can’t wait until my payday on August 1st I may will wanting order those electric tools for starter basic step by step cuz I am not experiences but learning fast anyway… thank for your link that I saw it.. I love how your websites selling those product is good deal price for EU,, but do you shipping those to USA as well?, let me know okay Justin… smile thank brother
Thank you! Subscribed :)
Nice video ahh,,,,easy to understand ahh,,,keep doing good work ahh...
😁
I appreciate the view and comment, hope to see you in the comments again in the future!
I’m new on the soldering job. I was trying soldering lcd FPC connector on iPhone 12 Pro Max motherboard. I removed the old broken FPC, cleaned the area and was trying to reball the pads eventually I ruined three pads as the soldering wire created large balls which wouldn’t remove from the board so I scratched them with the iron and pads were removed. Why when I go over the pads with the iron the actual solder wire not sticking on the pads and creating iron balls all over? Is this board done?
Show us how far u coming along
Wooowwww thanks man a lot!
Great video...
I appreciate the view and comment, hope to see you in the comments again in the future!
Other channel way less informative get the views. RUclips Justin rocks give this man the views he deserves.
I'm struggling to get the solder sitting nice and neatly on the pads when doing a similar task. I'm using leaded, plus flux, plus a bent tip. I don't, however maintain contact with the board like you do and move in circles. Is that the secret or is it more? Thanks in advance for your help. I've subbed by the way 🙂 Ed
The biggest thing it seems would be that you're not transferring enough thermal energy into the board, go back and watch through my 101 and 102 playlists, I bet you will knock it out of the park. The short answer though is that you need to use the biggest tip possible for the joint at a proper temp, if you need to turn it up for a specific job. sometimes you gotta do that. I usually try to work as cold as possible, while still maintaining control of my work. You can always keep adding heat, but if you turn it up too high you can't take the heat away and you can damage pads if you're using an iron.
Also, another secret, add hot air in your other hand =) it will augment the board's temp overall in that area so that it cannot absorb the heat from the iron as easily. Hope all this helps. good luck in your journey FTLOG.
I have an A51 with FPC connector broken, where can I mail in for Repair?
Great vid buddy, i have a request for something i really need to see u with asap, the protected ic's sam's and apple's how to left them off and how to deal with them! can u put that in your future plans please!
Thanks once again
you mean soldering SAM connector to pinout for read only IC?
thanks
The best video i ever seen but you say what flux and solider your using.
Amtech 559 and usually 63/37 solder alloy for its low to no plastic range.
If there's a silver lining of having so much electronic waste is that you have plenty of boards to practice before doing the actual work.
Thanks
Is the tip you are using is conical or chisel bent and what size is the thickness (ex: 0.3)?
Hi, I have a question. Do you have a better image looking directly from your eyes? More clear? Greetings from Poland
Hello can you show us how we can solder lcd fcp connector on Samsung Galaxy tab 4 10.1 T530 or similar devices ?
I really appreciate your advices and your videos very helpful!
Thanks for your all videos !
Best regards from turkey !
Hey Justin, nice vid, question for you : are you talking in °C or °F ? Thanks a lot !
C =) ill try to make sure i mention this in future videos! Thanks for the view and comment! =)
Nice job Justin, so doing similar connectors on say Macbook logic boards would be a little easier or ?
What is a good solder and flux for flat flex repair?
The key to knowing the anwser yourself is in watching my microsoldering 101 - 102 playlists =), but just to give you a more direct answer. Amtech 559 flux and 63/37 solder will work just fine =) Thanks for the question, view and comment!
oh what temp is your soldering iron as well. you don't mention that in the video
temp and air sir.?
thank you
I try to solder the fpc of galaxy a21s but the comnector wont bound fully with the board. All contacts are under the connector. All temperatures tried from 180 to 350.
what size head for the hot air do you recommend for doing this job?
Why the hell is this such a secret? Finally found a good video where they actually EXPLAIN some shit
Good question, just gota keep getting the word out brother! =D
When trying to tin the pads after taking off the fpc connector and getting it ready for the next connector, my solder doesn't want to stick to the pad and only slightly covers some pads, so when I hot air it there isn't enough solder to make good connection with the leg of the connector, any suggestions? Thanks, great videos!
Would the soldering iron tip be the cause, I'm using a chisel tip, nothing like the hook tip you are using.
Sounds to me like u need more flux and not enough thermal transfer from your iron to the pad one way around this is to use a bigger ball of solder on the tip = more surface area and mass to transfer heat to the pads , Myself i use preheater you also want to make sure there is no corrosion on the pads
@@cormacpyper thanks for the reply. I think the flux I'm using isn't the best quality so that might be part of the problem. I used a bigger tip with a bit more solder and seemed to give me a lot better coverage!
Are the pads highly oxidized? If your getting some but not all they could need a little scratching on top to clean off more oxidation. But as Cormac said as well, might need some more/better flux as well. Did you purchase an iron set or just specific tips?
@@TheArtofRepair some of that pads seem to be oxidising quickly when trying to tin, but I believe that's down to the poor quality flux I'm using, I'll have to get a better quality one. As far as the iron goes, I have a thermaltronics t9000s, I have a couple of different sized chisel tips, will have to invest in some other types too.
You said: "Little over half air flow" I assume on a Quick 861 you mean 60 air flow then, correct? Cuz I believe the Quick goes up to 120 air flow
this guy is quite skilled but he acts too hard lol
Really hope you reply but, I have an iPhone 6s Plus (screen was attached while phone was on and it sparked) and I replaced the screen and I the display shows picture and all that but it’s unresponsive to touch, does it need an fpc replacement??
Hey there Johny1220, it could very well be that something was damaged, but at this point you would need to do a microscopic inspection to verify and create a proper repair plan. Thanks for visiting the channel!
Question when do you preheat a board before hot air
When the board will suck the heat out of the part you're trying to work on. If the board is already pre-heated, the part will heat up quicker. If you don't pre-heat, all the heat will keep going from the part you heat up, into the board... and the part won't heat up properly.
@@hxhdfjifzirstc894 thanks
also what is your favorite flux to do these jobs?
How can I find which FPC connectors I need for a project? I've tried to gooble the sizes and types with no luck. I have a Samsung phone project I'm planning and they look like the one in this video, but several sizes. I need to order both male/female, to make piggyback sandwich adapters for the FPCs.
Have you tried buying a broken phone of the same model on ebay, and using it for spare parts?
I want to fix the fpc connector quick 850A air and heat how can I arjust
the board he worked was very thin, so theres less heat sinking thats why it looks easy...
Would you use a low melt solder to re-apply this connector 138c?
no, 138c solder has bismuth in it which is weak and brittle
THANKS BRO NOW I HAVE A SLIGHT CLUE - how does the solder magically attach itself to the gold pins tho??
Its actually bonding to the molecules on the pads, once it bonds, it can never be gold again unless scratched off.
Try to do it with Huawei P30 Pro. Several PCB layers and high density. Almost impossible to work with
Not hard at all. Send me a motherboard and I’ll make the video no problem. 😉
Do you mean 60, when you say half air flow ?
Very valuable tips regardless, thank you very much !
Half of this machines airflow of 120 units is 60, so yes :)
I try to just give info like that bc most of these units have the same output. Just not the same measurements. So half just made it easier 😅
@@TheArtofRepair Yeah no, I get why you said it that way. I was just a bit in disbelief, because I usaually blow all components away when I have that high air flow. But it totally worked. I soldered some JAE FA1004SA1-R8000
connectors to my new 3DS XL with 100 airflow on my Quick 861DW and 340°C. And it was beautiful. I could keep the ait outlet on the connector for a full minute with it being completely undamaged. I didn't use a nozzle which made things better...
@@anschflck8049 I’m glad things worked out for you! Sweet! Have you tried many soldering repairs before?
@@TheArtofRepair Yeah, I'm currently a student at university, but it's not very fulfilling. I am learning things but it's very theoretical and many things I won't be able to apply anywhere. Because I already did an apprenticeship at a company I had a lot of practical experience already. So buying broken things off of ebay and fixing and reselling them helps me to stay balanced. At the company I didn't do much hot air work though, so I have some catching up to do.
Which flux do you use ?
Amtech 559 they have a new v3 that’s nice :) only buy from official sellers. It’s heavily copied and inconsistent. And the v2 might be counterfeit. Some cool videos out there on the subject if you want to go look also 💪
can i do this repair with a magnifying glass?
I mean, if your just doing it for fun sure, you might wreck the board. but if you actually intend to do this professionally i wouldn't say its a solid idea. Best to buy the gear needed so you can do it properly.
@@TheArtofRepair appreciate the reply, thanks 🤘
He thinks making a neuclear bomb hahahaha
Bro what do you mean re-allowing
re-alloy to change the allow on the motherboard to something else, so from whats on the board, Lead free ROHS solder to 63/37 Tin/Lead solder =) to Re-Alloy
@@TheArtofRepair thanks bro
@@TheArtofRepair bro I'm in very much ineed to to microdering do you have any course on it
@@ustaadaadam in person yea, in the middle of class right now! Haha where are you located?
Will have online stuff in some time too
@@TheArtofRepair from Kenya
audio is too low
I did this and even on low air the connector flied away
when you remove? or when you put the new one down?
@@TheArtofRepair I removed successfully
But while fixing new one, even on low air it's flying away or it moves from its position and pin shifts to another track..
I am thinking to put a small layer of glue below the connector..stick it and hot air it!
Is it good to do so?
Thank you for your reply 😎🇮🇳
@@saikiranshiny i mean if theres flux there on the pads where you put the connector, the flux should hold it where it needs to be. And if at 0 air speed its blowing things away at this point maybe your using a pinhole hot air nozzle
@@TheArtofRepair Oh,Thank you sir.my station has a minimum speed of 1 .i can open and reduce the speed of air..And should i use 136 c Flux paste for this?..because 1883 is hard to melt and high temp.may hurt the plastic?
@@saikiranshiny low melt solder is for the weak. Never :)
You can do this. I believe in you.
What station do you have?
Your solding flux name or link
Amtech 559 =)
okay?
No idea the thought you were trying to convey. Try to articulate more.
@@TheArtofRepair your really annoying okays makes your vids unwatchable for me. stop doing that and work on your communication please. vids are good otherwise.
@@konradschaubert5520 i sugguest you find another channel, i am who i am and the way i communicate is how iv always been and will be. I make videos for FREE. so if you would like custom videos exactly how you want me to communicate let me know and ill send an invoice over and i can make it happen and be super short and dry for you.
@@TheArtofRepair no worries its just me being hypersensitive. and though i really like your content i am just sad i can’t watch em because of that. Good luck
I think there are a lot of issues with your methods
I mean, feel free to elaborate. Im all ears.
could do without the hard rock intro music and millennial humor but other than that an ok tutorial. keep working on it.